Embossing folder Tips, Tricks & Techniques Class

1. Embossing Tips, Tricks & Techniques Class: Welcome to the embossing folder tips, tricks, and techniques class. Embossing fillers are fabulous way to add texture to the front of your cards. But most people just stop at embossing or embossing and inking. In this class, you're going to learn 15 different techniques to take your embossing to the next level. Let's go take a look at what we're gonna do. This is an overview of all the different techniques that we'll be covering in this class. There's 1515 different techniques plus a bonus one. I am going to be focusing just on the actual techniques, the embossing techniques, and not on make it turning them into cards. So I do have a sample of each technique created into a card. They're all very simple samples, some that have absolutely nothing put on, just put onto a base. Some have a sentiment or a sentiment and a die because they're all very simple. I figured we would keep this focus on more techniques and not necessarily on the card making because those are all very basic. So what we're going to be doing is doing all the different techniques and showing you how to take your embossing folders to the next level, this class comes with a supply list that's going to have pictures of all the finished samples, as well as the supplies used for each one of them. Let's go grab our embossing machine and start embossing. 2. Let's Talk about Different Embossing Folders: Alright, before we get into the specific techniques in this class, Let's talk about embossing folders. So there's two different types that I'm gonna be using in this class. I'm gonna be using regular, just the 2D embossing folders. Basically, there's a raised edge and a lower edge in Boston, a DeVos, which I will show you in a minute. So these only have two layers. Basically there's a raised part and a lower part. Then there are 3D embossing folders and they've got lots of detail and contour to them. So there's different stacking that you need to use with this than with the regular ones, because they're much thicker. Now, the ones that I'm using in this class happened to be a different color, but they don't always come in different colors. Some of them are the same color as the regular folders. But when you look at the thickness, you can absolutely tell the difference between the two of them. I'm gonna be using a big shot machine in this class, and I have a multi-purpose platform at the bottom. You need to open a tab to the top tab when you're embossing. The first thing I'm going to show you is just embossing with the regular folder. I have my one plate down here. I'm going to put my paper in the folder, put it into my machine, and then I have a plate on top of it. And then we just run it through. Now for this one because it's only to date today. Basically, there's only a lower raised or whatever. I only run it through once. But when it comes to the 3D one because there's so much dimension to them. I run it through back and forth a couple times. So this is what just a regular folder looks like. And then the first section, we're just gonna do this and then I'm just going to show you how to bring out some of that detail in those embossed butterflies. But now let's do our 3D folder. So because it's got so much detail to it, we do not use this bottom plate. So we have our multipurpose platform with tab to open. If you have a different dye cutting machine, I can't help you with your stacking because this is the only one that I have. And I only have a multi-purpose platform for mine. With the 3D folders, we're only using the multipurpose platform with tab to open and one plate with our folder. So in order to get the detail into the embossing folder, what I'm sorry, into the paper, what I'm gonna do is I'm going to miss the paper. Now for this video, I'm gonna do it in screen. For the rest of the videos, I'm gonna do it off screen so that I'm not spraying all over my surface. So what I do is I take a misting bottle, missed it twice on one side, miss it twice on the other side. And then I put it into my folder. I have ink on my hands apparently because some transmitter. Then I put my other plate on top and I run it through. Now, I tend to run it through three times in my heads, three times for 3D. You could do it four times. You could do it too. I just want to make sure to get that detail into my into my paper. Now, there's some color on here because I already had some color on this folder for a technique that I'm going to show you later. But it works perfectly because it gets too that way you can see some of the details in there. So there's not just a higher and a lower. There are so many different levels to this embossing folder. And that's one of the reasons why I tend to use the 3D folder is even more because the detail in them is absolutely incredible. So like I said before, I'm only going to show you the techniques for this and then I will show you a card sample using that technique. I'm not going to show you how to make the cars because the only thing I've actually done to make the cars is mounted the embossed piece onto a piece of or onto the card base and then added a sentiment or a dicot. I wanted to keep the embossing, the main focus of the cards and the main focus of the card class. And I wanted to be able to show you more techniques rather than less techniques, and then show you how to make very simple cards. So that being said, I will have this stacking in your supply list as well. So you don't have to necessarily remember it. But just keep in mind with a thicker folders. You don't use one of the plates. So I will see you in the first video and we'll learn the first technique. 3. Basic Embossing & Inking: Alright, so like I said, for the first folder or for the first technique, we're just going to do some basic embossing. I'm going to use my 2D, my butterfly in Boston folder here. And then we're going to use some ink to enhance the image of that embossing. You don't have to, if you want a more subtle look, you can absolutely leave it white. But sometimes you just want the images to pop a little bit. So by adding by adding ink, sorry, I just lost my train of thought. By adding ink, we can pop those images out a bit. So I've got my big shot, my multipurpose platform with a tab to open. I'm going to put my base plates in there, one plate in there, put my paper in the folder, and then run it through. Moved my machine out of the way, drove a plate along the way. Alright, so we take that out of the folder. Now there's two different ways that you can add ink to your folders. I'm using oxide for this one just because I like the brightness of it. You could absolutely use dye ink. There's no right or wrong. So I'm going to start with using a blending brush. Very, very light touch until you get a feel for how much ink is actually on your brush. When you're brushing it, you can always add more ink, but you can never take it away. So it's always a good idea to be very light handed until you realize how much pressure to put on. And it's going to depend on your ink pad because some ink pads are going to have more ink and some are gonna be less inky and some are gonna be more juicy. So you want to be light handed you again, you can always add more ink if you're wanting it to be darker. Now, doing the Brent blending brush, I get a fairly subtle look, which is different from this. And the reason is different from this. Because in this one, I went and took my pad and put it directly onto the paper. By doing that, I get some more drastic ink marks. I can't really control how much ink other than the pressure. I'm also going to get some lines in my background there. If I'm lighter handed with it, I'll get less lines in the background. But just another way that you can apply ink rate to your card stock and bring out your embossed image. So both of them are perfect. It's just personal preference. Which one you prefer? I'll see you in the next video and we'll step it up a little bit. 4. Letterpress Embossing: So this here is our second card. So again we have ink on or bossed piece, but you can see that I have the ink actually on the background, the lower part of the embossed piece. And the way to do that is by putting ink directly on your embossing folder. So you can tap it on or you can swipe it. When you swipe it, you get a little bit more of that streaky look there, which personally I kind of like, if you don't like that, you can swipe it on. Now, normally you would choose which side you want and then only ink that side. I'm going to ink both sides so that I can show you what the different look would be for the different sides. Now I've only got the light color on so far, but if we want to add some of the dark color, I'm just going to add that to some places. It's hard to hold you in Boston folder without getting your fingers inking with this one though. So just be prepared for that. Now I'm going to put my paper in there. You want to make sure to put your paper in there gently and not shifted. Otherwise you're going to have ink that moves around on there. Let's grab my machine. Alright, so once again, tap two is open. I've got one plate in there. And let's put our folder. I'm doing this with oxide ink. You could do it with just a dye ink as well. Sometimes some dye inks tend to beat on the plastic, which is one of the reasons why I chose the oxide ink. But try it because it still has a really cool look to it. So this side, we have the butterflies indented and that's where the color went. And on this side we have the background indented and that's where the color wind. So it's a fun way to play with color on your embossing folders. I actually ended up having a string for my pad in there. So that left that little mark on there. But it's a very simple way to ink your cards and make your embossing pop out with very little effort. And from here, really, because I've embossed both are because I've put the color on both sides. You can choose what color or what side you want showing on your card. Again, neither is right or wrong. They're both a little bit different. But it's fun that you can do that and color your cards at the same time. We'll see you in the next video. 5. Stamping Pattern onto an Embossed Background: Alright, so for this one here we're going to step up that inking the embossing folder, and we're also going to stamp a image stamp on there. Now, this is the script stamp that I'm using. And keep in mind if you're using a legible script stamp that your writing is going to be backwards. This particular wine, you can't even read it when it stamped forwards anyways, so I'm just using it for a little bit of extra texture. The one, the folder that we're gonna be using is a 3D embossing folder, but this would work with a 2D one as well. The same process, same steps. This is my folder here and you can really easily see which is the back side that has the background race, which is the side that has the image raised. And if you find it hard to see, you could just feel it and you can feel the smooth part of the background. And on this side you can feel the rough part of the image being raised. So we're going to be inking on the background side. I'm taking my oxide ink pads here. Now. What I forgot to mention in the last video is these ink pads that I'm using are water-soluble, water-soluble. You can use the dye ink pad or this is an oxide which is a pigment dye blend. Either one will work, but it's better to use a water-soluble pad because then it, you're gonna be easily able to clean your embossing folder afterwards. If you use permanent ink, chances are your ink is going to dry before you can even transfer it onto your paper. The other thing is sometimes when you have permanent ink cleaner, sometimes they're a little bit oily and that's hard to get off the plastic. Best to use a dye based ink or a water-soluble ink. I'm going to ink my background stamp here with some brown ink because I want it to have some contrast. I want to be able to see it. This particular stamp actually is not big enough to go over the entire piece of the entire folder. So I'm going to do it into little steps here. I'm just going to take a baby wipe anywhere. I see some of that turquoise color. And then let's link it again. Now my paper is smaller, so I probably could have just stamped at one time and it would have fit where I'm going to put my paper. But this way I don't necessarily need to worry about that. I can put my paper wherever I want it to. And I don't have my stamp on an acrylic block. If you feel more comfortable with it, you absolutely can do that. For this particular one. I was comfortable just holding it in my hand. This bottom part, we're not going to see a whole lot of it and I'm not exactly sure what part we're going to see in what we're not. So I'm just going to stamp all of it again. That way we've got as much as I need. Alright, let's put the stamp to the side. I'm going to put the folder up there, grab my machine. Once again, I don't I'm not using the bottom plate. So I only have my multipurpose platform with the folder or the top tab open. I'm going to take my paper and put it in my embossing folder, but before I do that, I'm going to miss it. So off-camera I'm gonna miss each side twice. It doesn't need to be wet. We're just dampening those paper fibers. Then I'm going to lay it down now I want to try to be careful not to move it once I've laid it down because I don't want the ink to smear and then roll it back and forth. There we go. Isn't that cool? I just love how you can get the image transferred over and it just adds so much more interesting to the background here. You can see my background. I didn't do anything to the flowers because I thought there was enough busy-ness and enough interests in the background that I liked them. Just plain. So I simply added a sentiment to the bottom. Your folder here, you could take a baby wipe and clean it this way or a wet cloth. The easiest way is to go take take it to a tap, run it under some running water and then use the towel to dry it. That's the quickest and easiest way I've found to clean them. So I'll see you in the next video and we're gonna do some double embossing. 6. Double Embossed Background: Alright, so we're gonna do some double embossing in this video here. So first thing I'm going to do is I'm going to emboss a brick pattern into my full sheet of paper and then I'm going to use the roses one. You're going to lose some of the detail from the bricks because the roses one, it just flattens it anyways. But when we go and ink it, some of that detail comes back out, which makes it look really interesting. And again, you can use any combination of folders. I just thought, the roses, we look really, really cool with a brick background. So the first thing I'm going to do is emboss my brick background. This again is a 3D folder, so I'm going to my multipurpose platform with the tab to open. No bottom plate. I'm just going to emboss the top one. Now normally I would miss my paper first, but because I'm doubling bossing this and because the roses one is going to flatten some of the embossing from the bricks here. I'm just going to boss this one out missing it and I will miss it for the roses. So there's the brick and it's got a ton of detail in it. And we're going to lose some of that. But that's okay. So my folder is right here. I'm going to miss each side of the paper twice. Place it where I want on the roses and I'm going to make sure that I'm having I'm placing it so that the roses are going to emboss out. I don't want to get a little bit more of that top flower there, so we just move it in a moment. That's a mosque. This. There we go. So you can see we've lost some of the detail of the brick. Some of that is going to come back as we kit, but because we just missed it, the paper, I'm going to let this dry completely, so I'm gonna give it a five to ten minutes for the water in there to dry. Because if we go and Ankit right now, the wetness is going to make that ink a lot darker. So I want to be doing it on dry paper. So I'll see you in a moment. Once this is all dried, alright, or embossed background is dry now and I'm going to ink it. Now. I'm going to use ink blending brushes again and do it with a very light hand until you get a feel for how much ink gets on the brush. From that ink pad. It's always once again, it's always easier to add more ink than it is to wish you hadn't had it in a certain area. So I'm doing the burgundy color for the flowers first. So you've got a little bit of a swirl there because I got a little bit heavy handed, but that's okay. This is definitely one that I wouldn't be using an ink pad directly to the paper for simply because I don't want I don't want it to get to too dark. And the texture from the background, from the bricks is only going to come out with a really, really light hand with a brush. If I were a little bit too heavy handed, I think it would anchor the whole thing and you wouldn't see it because the texture itself from the brick, because it was flattened a little bit, is fairly subtle. But it is also something that I think you do need to ink it a bit in order to have that come out. You can see some of that has come out and I'm not, I don't go right to the edges. It's impossible with brushes to go right to the edges. Just the suggestion of color for me is enough. So again, for the leaves, light handed and you see that I got Burgundy on the edges of the leaves. I don't worry about that. For me. It doesn't take anything away from the look of the whole thing. And I think you get enough suggestion of color that you know what it is. You're working if there's an area that you find, needs a little bit more ink, go back and just add a little bit more ink. But even when I'm adding more income, not really adding much pressure to it, I'm still staying fairly light handed with it. You can see on my sample card, I didn't even add a sentiment to this, to this, to this to me, he's got enough detail in enough interest to it that I would put a sentiment or something inside my card. I wouldn't put it on the front. Alright, and I'm just going to go back with a burgundy and just darken some of those edges up a little bit. This is where you can get a little bit more heavy handed. I'm just focusing on the edges. I'm not focusing inside. And really this is more to frame it than anything. I think it gives it a little bit of a vignette type look when you darken the outsides, the amount that I'm on is a silicone. It's actually a baking mat that I got from Costco. There's all sorts of different maps that you can work on. I do have one from Ranger that's a tan color, but I used alcohol inks on it one time, so it's all nice and stain. So I like to use this black one just because even if it does get stained from alcoholism, so you don't see it. There we go. This is one of my favorite embossing folders because really you don't need to do a whole lot to it and it's just pretty so that again, I would just put it right onto the front of a card. And I will put the sentiment on the inside. So we'll see you in the next video and we're going to add some heat embossing tool and embossed background. 7. Adding Heat Embossing to an Embossed Background: Alright, so in this video we're going to add some heat embossing to the emboss background. Is it just a different way to color your embossing? So first thing we need to do is get that embossed background and because I miss the paper, I need to let it dry completely before we add any embossing. Because if we did the embossing while the paper is wet, the embossing powder, we just stick to all the wet paper. As you can see, I just added some simple die cuts to the front. But let's get our embossed image first. I'm using a brick folder for the background here. This is actually coordinations color or coordinations paper that I have left from many, many years ago. We're not going to see the black side, so it's going to be just fine. Again, you want to make sure to put your paper so that the bricks or the way you want them to be, you don't want to have our mortar part sticking out. No bottom plate, just the embossing folder and the top plate misting bottle and the way that those away put it through a couple of times to get a nice deep saying, There we go. I love this folder because it's just got so much dimension to it. So I'm going to let that completely dry and I'll see you in a few minutes and we will start to emboss it. Alright, our paper is dry and we're ready to start doing our technique on her background. So you're going to need an embossing pad, I bet a verse of Mark pad here. You just want some clear embossing ink and I'm just tapping it onto my background. And it's only going to go on those rays parts. So the cool thing is we're going to just get some natural-looking growth because this is a brick pattern. In those bricks. I've got three different embossing glazes here. Now in Boston, glazes are transparent. You don't necessarily need transparent embossing powder for this. It's just the colors that I had that I thought were going to be looking good for a brick wall. If you have opaque ones or if you are using an embossing folder where some metallic ones would look cool, You absolutely can swap them out for different colors. I'm putting a few different colors just to make it a little bit more interesting. I think if I put all one color, especially for a brick, because when you see brick It's got different shades and stuff like that. I think it would look a little bit. I just think this makes it look a little bit more interesting, obviously, because I'm mixing some embossing powder here. Once I'm done with this, I'm going to have a embossing powder mix. I'm not gonna be able to put them back in those jars. So I have a jar that I keep the mixes in. If I'm working with just blues or greens or whatever, then I have a jar with just those color combinations or whatever. But you can see I don't have a ton of embossing powder on my thing here and the extra I put right back on just to see if there's any spots that got missed. And I do that a couple times just to make sure that I've got all the embossing powder or the embossing ink. Hubbard just seems to fill in those edges there. Tap on the back to get all the excess off this in the container so that My Workspace off here. I like to close my containers before I started in Boston because I don't want even though I'm in Boston, Gun more admits heat and it doesn't blow air. I just don't want anything to blow or melt while I'm doing it. So I close them and get rid of them, get them out of the way. I'm also a little bit caught too, so I would tend to knock things and bump them. So you can see in the corner that part that is melted. So embossing powder is just little like it's plastic powder basically. So it sticks to the ink and then the heat gun melt it. So you can see that it goes from adult texture to a shiny glossy texture. One spot there that's missing. So once I'm done, I like to tilt it in the light to make sure that I got everything I can see in the bottom of this sum. There we go. I think we've got it all from there, just glued onto your card and just add your dicots. This particular one, there's a lot of part that is raised. So when I glue it down, I like to glue along the little border lines to make sure that I have some glue that has some good contact with my card base. And then I also like to put an acrylic block or something to weigh it down to hold it. Because as I've been embossing it, it's worked it a little bit. By having a weight down. It's going to make sure that that piece has good contact with your card while the glue is drying. And after doing that, I find that I have no problems with things sticking are coming up after that. But you definitely want to make sure to have it laying flat. You could hold it flat as well. But I tend to get a little impatient. So I tend to put an acrylic block and then awaits. And by weight, I mean, I have a thing with just some marbles or whatever in it. So it doesn't need to be anything fancy. But there you go. And again, that can be done with any embossing folder or any colored embossing powder. The sky's the limit, will see you in the next video. 8. Using Mica Sprays with Embossing Folders: Alright, so for the next video, we're actually going to add some Micah sprays to the concoction. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to spray some, I'm gonna spray on this side. This is where the image is recessed. So I'm going to spray some Micah sprays and then I'm going to use some paper towel and just wipe it off of the top, which would be the background part. And then I'm going to ink the background part so you see that the sprays are concentrated on the raised part. But the cool thing about the sprays as they kinda beat up on the folder. So you still get some of the white card stock showing through. It just adds some interest in texture as well as some sparkle. And then to make sure that at Coordinated, my little butterfly die cut has the mica spray on it as well so that it would coordinate with the spray in the embossing to start sharing my screen and I've shaken it a bit so I know it's mixed, but you do want to make sure that it's all mixed. Micah tends to settle at the bottom of your jar. So if you haven't mixed it, then you're just gonna get liquid that's not shimmery. So I'm going to spray and I'm fairly liberal with this because I do want to get a decent amount in in those groups. Now, unfortunately, all of this that I'm wiping off the top is going to be wasted. But what I'm trying to do by wiping that off the top is I'm trying to be able to get a clean surface. So when I go in ink with my ink pad, I'm not contaminating my ink pad with that Micah spray. There we go. Get it off my working surface as well. Let's go one more time. It's pretty good. It's coming off pretty dry. Alright, so now I'm going to use my ink pad. I'm choosing a dark color because I want to be able to see a nice dark background with that shimmer spray on the front. On the front, I mean, on the emboss part. So you can see I'm not contaminating my ink pad at all, so I don't have to be careful about doing this and I don't have to worry about getting mica spray on my pad there. Let's missed our paper. Doesn't need to be here. I'm going to lay my paper down and then bring in my machine. Close your folder. Try not to move the paper in there because again, we don't want to smudge our inks and then go back-and-forth. There we go. There we go. So I do still have ink in there. I can go back, missed some more paper and do it again. What's going to happen is it's going to have a look like this because I've gotten most of this is the very first one where I showed you how to do stack for an embossing folder. It's got most of the ink off of it. So it's just going to have a little bit of color on the back and then just a little bit of shimmer on the fronts. But again, this is all water-soluble, so I will clean it off by running it through under the tap to get rid of all the excess on there. Just because I tend to keep my folder is as clean as possible so that I don't have any surprises. And if I'm working on a project, so this does need to be dried completely before you add it to a card. But isn't that fun? How you get the shimmer in the race part and then the background is inked. So that's what it's like when it's done. Unlike the brick and bossing folder, this one here, There's a lot of flat areas, so it makes it easier to glue to the front of your card. I'll see you in the next video. And we'll do something else. 9. Creating an Embossed Background with Dies: Alright, so in this video we're gonna do some embossing, but we're not going to be using an embossing folder. We're gonna be using and background die. So this is a great way to get some more use out of your guys by embossing them. Now obviously some images are going to lend themselves better than others. This one is just a background that I really, really quite love. So I do have that taught tab is still open. I have my base plate here. I've got my die with the, with the paper on top of it and the papers on top of the blade side of the die. What I'm going to use now is a rubber embossing match. So you can get these from physics. They will be linked in the supply list. And then I use a couple of sheets of card stock just to thicken the sandwich. Those sheets of card stock can be keeping used over and over again. These I've been using for months. So you don't need to worry about having new sheets of card stock each and every single time and wasting it. And all you do. Let's run it through exactly the same as an embossing folder. Now this one here I used an IT background die. It doesn't necessarily need to be a background die. It could be an image di, di cuts I used to dye. The dye is I used to die cut these. You could emboss them and get a butterfly background as well. But there we go. That's what it looks like when it's just embossed. Again, you could leave it like that. But I do find that ink tends to just bring those images out a little bit. And once again, the light handed with it. You can always add more ink. But if you get it too heavy on there, you can't take it away. For this one, I only inked the flowers. I didn't bother inking around the edges. But you certainly could if you wanted to. But it's a great way to have another use for your dies, especially the background dies, because the background dies tend to be a lot more expensive than some of the image ones. So it's great when we have more than one. Use for them. Super, super simple. But a nice, pretty background. And once again, I only added a sentiment to this because the background itself is fairly busy that I didn't want to take away from it. So it just added a sentiment. But very, very pretty way to reuse that background in a different way. 10. Creating an Embossed Background with Stencils: In this video, we are going to emboss with stencils. Now just like die cuts or dies, you can emboss the pattern of a stencil. Now, the one thing with doing it with a stencil is these are a lot thinner. So your impression is going to be very shallow. You're not gonna get a very deep impression. And really you do need to use ink on top of it to actually get that to come through so you can see it a little bit better. Once again, we've got the big shot with the tab open. I bought the plate right here. I'm going to put my stencil down on my plate. You want to make sure you're using a stencil that's narrower than your plate. This stencil is six-by-six, so it fits in the plate and nicely. I'm going to place my stencil where I, or my paper where I want it on the stencil. And then same as the dyes, same as the dice. We're going to use our rubber embossing mat. And then we're also going to use some sheets of card stock here, which are plate on top. And then run it through this one because it's so shallow, I do run it through a couple of times hoping to get a little bit more detail in it. There's only so much you're gonna get though. You're not gonna get as much detail as you do with a dye. And it's probably going to be fairly hard for you to actually see it there. Now, one thing I realized that I just did is I put my pencil down this way. So my embossing is actually backwards. So the writing on here, this writing, you can actually read it, It's actually backwards. So just keep in mind that you need to put it onto your matt in your dye cutting machine, opposite of how you want it to see or want to see it so that you can actually see some of that detail there. So once again, I'm using my ink pad trying to be as light handed as possible. Just getting it to, getting the ink to touch some of the edges of the embossing to highlight it a bit. And I'm not trying in any way, shape, or form to be even with my inking here. For myself, I like it when it's a little bit, some darker areas and lighter areas. I think that's a lot more interesting than something that's evenly inked all over. But if you prefer it to be inked evenly all over, you certainly can do that. It's going to naturally be a little bit darker around the outsides simply because I always start inking on the side and work my way. And if I were to take it, take my brush from my ink pad and go right in here. Chances are you'd have like an oval shape. So I always start from the side and then work my way in when there's a little bit less ink on my blending brush. I like having darker edges. I think it frames it a little bit nicely. There we go. I'm going to leave it like that. Even though this is backwards, really. The focal point of the card is gonna be the bird and the sentiment, or that's what I have on mine. You could do a flower, you could do any dicot really. You can emboss any sense what doesn't necessarily have to be a word when it absolutely can be a leaf one shape or a shape, one or whatever. But just a fun way to get another use of your stencils. And another way that you can use different tools in your toolbox or toys in your craft room to get emboss looks. So in the next video, I'm gonna show you how to emboss with dicots. 11. Creating an Embossed Background with Die Cuts: So at the end of the last video, I said that I'm gonna show you how to emboss with dicots and you are probably like Wait a second, we just did embossing with dyes. But what I mean is embossing with actual dye cuts. So a recent video I did, or recent class, last class I did was creating stained glass card. So I have some dye cuts here that I created in that class that we didn't need to use for that actual class. So we're going to use these. So I've got a piece of chip board here. It's a foreigner quarter by 5.5, which is the same as a quarter sheet of 8.5 by 11 card stock. And what we're going to do is we're going to take our dye cuts and we're going to glue them onto our piece of card stock or piece of card chip board. And then we're going to use that to emboss. Now, in order to do that, I have three of each die cut and I'm going to layer them on top of each other so that I've got some extra dimension here. I'm using my distress collage medium. I like it because it dries completely clear. But for this, what I like about it is if I happen to get some that squishes out, it's not going to be sticky. The other type of glue that I tend to like to use this Tombow Malte. But that glue, if you just put it onto a surface and let it dry, it dries like a post-it note, so it's still a little bit tacky. So if I were to use it on here, anything squished out, it would be a little bit tacky and sticky and it will stick to my card stock, so I don't want that. What I need to glue these right on top of each other. One of them looked at the other one. Let me get this, glue it on my hand here. My leaf here went below the die cut beneath it. Do not want that. So what I'm going to do, I'm just going to use my acrylic block to hold that in place while the glue is drying. And because I've got two flowers on already, I'm going to glue two butterflies just to kinda try keep it even. Again, I don't worry about getting the entire surface covered in glue. When you're embossing, you're gonna have your paper pressing down. It's not really going to be you're not going to have anything sliding around. So I don't think it's super important. And obviously I'm using a flower and a butterfly. You could use a whole bunch of butterflies and create a butterfly background, leaves. You could do whatever you want. You could do a bunch of different flowers and create like a flower field type thing. Use anything. What I would suggest though, is using die cuts that are like silhouettes. You could use an outline die, but I think you're just going to get better detail with a silhouette like this. The card stock that I'm using, I'm going to guess it's probably like £95. It's not the thickest card stock. But I do find that three and glued on top of each other is enough dimension. You could if you had thicker card stock, use less, or if you had thinner card stock you some more. It's just a fun, again, a fun different way to use your dies. User die cuts. In a way that's a little bit in unexpected. So let's put the cap on my glue here. Took the card aside, took the acrylic plate aside. And we're not going to use this one, we're going to use the one that we just made. So I've got my machine here. Now for this one, I'm actually going to open up a tab number one is well, just because of that card or that chip board right in there, it makes it a little bit thicker. And this is just going to give me a little bit more room. You can make it work with not having it open. But we also don't want to put undue pressure on our machines. So I've got my chip board piece with the dicots glued onto up a bit there. I put my piece of paper on top, and this is why I chose to make my chip board the same size as my paper here. So then I can just line them up evenly. I don't have to worry about how things are placed on there. And then when I go to create it, when I go to create something for a card, I can trim it down where I want it to so that I can have the image centered how I'd like for that particular card. I'm still going to use those pieces of card stock. Let's go. Having said that, that wasn't enough pressure, I can just feel it. So we need to have that tab number one opened there. Sometimes, even if you've been die cutting for years, you make mistakes. Alright, so I've got my plate down, I've got my chip board with my die cuts on there. I've got my piece of card stock there. Obese as a sock and my rubber embossing that. And now let's put it through this way. I knew it was it was very tight when I did it before. But with that tab opened, it was just not quite enough. So chances are I could have left those couple of pieces of extra card stock out, and that would have helped. But still, There we go. So there is some black parts here. This just coming from my embossing mat there. Once I ink my front there, you're not going to see that. So let's get our ink pads out here. Whoops. And green. Alright, little bit of burgundy color on the flower. So my embossing Matt is black. You can get them. I have one that's a spell binders, one that's a town one that you could use that as well. My tan one has gotten really, really hard over the year, so I tend not to use it. But chances are if you had one that was lighter color, you wouldn't get that black transfer from your embossing mat. Alright? Actually I think this one, so that one I did the butterfly all blue. I think this one, I'm gonna put some green in the center. Because, why not? So I start with a very, even though I'm starting in the middle of the card stock, I start with a very light hand and slowly add pressure as I get used to how much ink is on my brush there. Then again, I'm going to start from the outside here and work my way in. Once I don't have much ink on my brush, I'm gonna go on the inside there. You're going to probably get a little bit going on the inside on the sky part. But once you go around the edges and add more sky color, blends right in. And I did blue all around the outside. You could do green from the bottom if you wanted it to look a little bit like grass or whatnot. Then last but certainly not least, where it's brown pad here. I've got my brown here and I just have a little stencil brush and just add some brown in the center. There we go. Just to give that flower bit of a center. But again, a fun way to use your dicots and a different and unexpected way and give them another use. 12. Creating a Colour Block Embossed Background: All right, For this next technique, we're going to have a little bit of fun with color blocking. Now in this case, I'm using some color or some card stock scraps to do the color blocking. You could take a piece of card stock and then tape it with some washi tape or whatever or masking tape and then use ink to color block. But I just thought this would be fun. So this here is just a piece of copy paper. It doesn't need to be thick because this is just a base for us to glue onto. I'm going to put some glue down. And then all I'm doing is adding my pieces of card stock to create the color blocked background. I'm budding them up to each other. Think is straight. I'm budding it up the map to each other so there's no gaps between each of the colors. You can see I'm just doing a squiggle of glue. That's enough to hold everything in place and keep that card stock on there. This one here and then put them brighter pink down there. It's just a great way to use up a bunch of credit card stock scraps. Have a little bit of fun with them. And create a different background while you're at it. Go. Now this is still a little bit wet. It's not totally dry, but we're going to take some scissors. You're going to trim excess off. Smaller ones. I'm tossing the big one I'll keep for another project. Now before I go in bosses, I'm actually going to take my tremor and I'm going to trim it down even further just to make sure that all those lines are square. I can't trust being able to cut a straight line with the scissors. So just trimming just a little bit off. Square root off this one here. I made the piece four inches by five and a quarter. So that's what I'm going to do as I'm trimming them just to make it the size that I need in the end. And then make sure everything is square and even. This can go. Alright, now let's grab our machine. I'm using the 2D folder. You could use whatever you want because there's a lot of busy-ness in a background like this. I didn't think it really needed to have the extra dimension. I figured the color blocking as well as the growing up in Boston folder was enough. So tattoo is open. I've got one plate down below. I'm going to put one thing up there to the side. Now you can leave it just as is. It looks beautiful, just as is. And I did color blocking here. You could do stripes, you could do lines going down this way. You could do day agnostic, can be whatever you want. But it's just a fun way to add just a little bit of interests in those backgrounds. I'm going to take an ink pad and just highlight those butterflies. Once again, I'm using my blending brush. This particular pad is quite juicy. I'm trying to be as light as possible and not cover up all that color blocking some ink is going to go on the background and that's totally fine. I'm expecting that, but I still want to be able to see those colors behind there. Once again, this one's butterflies. You could do any shapes or anything with it. This would be beautiful color blocking and then doing like ball leaves or whatnot. There we go at a simple die cut sentiments. Just a fun card. Very simple, easy technique, which just a different way to use your embossing folders as well as your current stock scraps. 13. Enhancing an Embossed Background with Inka Gold: Alright, so our embossed pieces of paper or dried. So now what I'm gonna do is I'm going to place them on top of each other and kinda shimmy them until the embossing matches and it kinda clicks into place. It gets to the point where you can't move it anymore. I'm going to use some dye tape and I'm going to hold it into place. I want to trim both of them at the same time so that I have the embossing exactly where I want it to be. And I'm also going to trim it down to the size that I want for the card. So I want it to be four inches by five and a quarter. So I'm going to trim it down to that. So that edge is done. This one here, the one I want to cut, so I want to take that tape off of there. Then the other end doesn't have to. So I can cut it already. And then this one, Let's move the tape from here. Now you can see I'm taking a tiny bit of the top of the paper off. You actually don't notice it. So I don't really worry about it. If you're worried about that, you might want to stick the paper to a shirt or whatever just to get a little bit of the stickiness out of it, it doesn't need to be super sticky, just enough to hold those pieces of paper together so that when you cut them, your embossing, embossing is in the exact same spot. Now I'm going to take one of these and I'm just going to cut it at a diagonal right there. That will fit into rate there once I've got it enhanced with the integral. So this is what the Inca gold looks like. Like I said, it's just a wax or water-based wax. I'm going to use it just with my fingers. You don't need any tools with this. I'm just going to rub it all over the surface. I'm using a very light touch because I don't want this entire thing to be gold. I only want to be enhancing the surface that is raised. If this looks interesting, I have a class that's just devoted to wax paste techniques that has all sorts of different other things that you can use. Inca gold for. And I do use Inca gold for that class just because I have a bunch of it. I love that you only need to use your finger and it's water-soluble. So anything that goes onto my surface here, anything that goes onto my finger just gets washed rate off and it dries super super quick. So you see me going into the container regularly. That's only because it's already dried on my finger. So a little bit goes a long way. I've had this for years. So I'm going to glue this in place so that this glucan be drawing while I work on the next step. Because we've already matched exactly that embossing. There's no work to getting it to match. So the next thing I wanted to do is I wanted a gold line for separation and you could use gold card stock for it. But we already have something. We know that if I use this, it's going to a 100% match. So let's just use this. So I could cut this strip down to the size I want first and then add the Inca gold. But then it's gonna be a little bit harder to apply it, as well as the fact that I'm going to be struggling, not bending the paper. So I'm just going to put it on this black piece of card stock and then I will trim it down. I want to make sure that I've got a length that's long enough for my card plus a little bit extra for the ankle. So there we go. Let's move this to the side. I'm just going to grab a paper towel or paper towel, a baby wipe here. Just quickly wipe my hands so that I'm not transferring gold anywhere. It's probably wouldn't transfer simply because it's already dried on my hand. But let's get it all cleaned up before we move on. This can go. I have a little chunk of the goal there that just smeared around. Now, try it before we do anything else. Alright. Now, this piece here, I'm going to use my small tremor for this. Cut it down. And then I'm going to use the lines on my ruler here to get an even strip. There we go. So I could even take my ruler, Excuse me, a little bit harder now that I've trimmed it and even make it narrower if I want. Because I can see through that ruler, I can see if it's straight. And I tend to eyeball this type of stuff. Especially with it when it's within the ruler because no ruler there to measure it by. I keep saying ruler, but I mean the guard there. So now we've got our thinner strip. Let's put some glue on our card. And bicarb, what I actually mean is just embossed piece. Place that down there. And I would typically let it dry first. But it doesn't necessarily have to. So I'm just going to take some scissors and just snippet with the edge of the card so that it lines up. Then simply add it to a card-based and put your sentiment on there. Just a fun way to enhance that embossing. And it just goes to show you don't only need to emboss and white card stock. Absolutely blow embossed on black because it just shows up a little bit different. So in the next video we're going to use something somewhat similar, but somewhat a little bit different. We'll see you there. 14. Enhancing an Embossed Background with Foundry Wax: Alright, so for this card, we're going to use the same folder we used for the last one, but we're going to use a different type of metallic to enhance it. We're going to use some foundry wax. Foundry wax is a liquid leafing wax that comes in a bottle and you rub it on. I'm gonna do it with my fingers as well. You could use a brush, but for something like this, I like to use my fingers because I like to feel exactly where it's going. And then you use a heat gun to bring the leafing to the surface. So the very first step to this is we are going to need to emboss our paper. So I have the same black watercolor card stock that I used for the last card. Once again, you could use regular black card stock. I just really like the way this one looks. I like the color of black and I just like the look of it. Emboss to me, it just looks a little bit richer. And then once again, because we wet it to emboss it, I need to let it completely dry before we move on to the next step. I'm going to take this out of the folder. Beautiful embossed image. I'm going to lay it down and I'm going to let it dry probably like five to ten minutes. It doesn't take a long time because we didn't use a lot of water, but we want it dry before we go to the next step. Alright, so my card stock is all completely dry. I'm going to take my boundary wax and squirt some onto my table here. I'm going to only do a little bit at a time. It does dry quite quickly. So as you can see while I'm working it, it gets a little bit thicker, a little bit thicker. So I'm just going to be try to be late handed. Works better if you squeeze or if you swirl it and then get, let's take some of the excess off of your hands on your work surface. Like I said, it dries super super quick. It also is super easy cleanup, but not with water. Cleanup for this is with alcohol. So you can use some isopropyl alcohol, some hand sanitizer. And for some techniques you can even thin it with some isopropyl and use that to flick around dots and get some spots on your projects. I have a bunch of different projects using the foundry wax on my YouTube. It's something that's just come out in the last few months. And quite frankly, I have a hard time not putting it on almost every project. So at this point I've just put it around on the surface. I would trim it down before I before I do the next step, but I didn't do it on this card. I left the I just trimmed it down and left the edges as is, if you wanted to put some around the edges, you could easily just do that like that and put some around the edges to clean it up. This is just some hand sanitizer which is alcohol-based. Get it off my finger. And then get it off your work surface. Super easy cleanup. Let's put a little bit more down because I see it a little bit left there. So like I said before, in order to bring the leafing out in it, you need to use a heat gun. And it works very similarly to embossing with embossing powder, but actually quicker. So it starts out LDL and then as you move the heat gun along it, it starts to, you'll see the shine from the leaping max. Here we go ahead and click as that. So it doesn't get super shiny in all areas, some areas where it's thicker, you'll see more of the leafing. And then along this edge where I put it, you'll see a little bit more of the leafing, but just a fun way to, again, to enhance the embossing. The one thing I'm not sure if I remember it or if I said, you can hear a ball in there, you want to make sure that you shake it really, really well before you use it because there are parts there that do settle. And you wanna make sure it's mixed up really, really well. And this is on paper. You don't need to only do it on paper. You could put it on metal, you can put it on plastic. You put it on all sorts of different surfaces. But just a fun way, again, to enhance your embossed images. I'll see you in the next class where we're going to use the same folder, but we're gonna do something totally different. 15. Metal Grunge Embossed Background: For this technique, we're going to create a grungy metal look. We're gonna do that with both the embossing folder as well as different embossing powders. So I'm using a Matt Silver. And when I say Matt, I mean, not super shiny. This one here, I try it on some glossy silver mirror card stock. And it looks completely different from the sample. And the technique is not nearly as effective. So you definitely want to have a Matt Silver background in order for that embossing as well as all that detail from the embossing powder to show through. So this side is coded so I don't need to spray any missed anyone on this side, but I am going to miss it on this side. Just to make that side a little bit more flexible. Once again, for this one, look at your paper because you're going to want to have your gear your gears laid out, right? No bottom plate, just the top plate. Here we go. Let's get the machine out of the way. And technically we could continue because this side of the paper is not wet. This side is though it's got a little bit of moisture to it. So I'm going to let that dry before we start going and adding some embossing powder. If I do it right now, some of that powder is going to start sticking on the back here and it's just going to make a little bit of a mess. So we're going to let that dry for a few minutes and I'll be right back. Alright, so the first step in creating our grungy mental background here is I'm going to take some stays on ink. I'm just going to rub it all over the background. I'm not pressing super hard. I'm pressing fairly light. We're just gonna get some dark areas there. Some of this is going to be covered with the embossing powder. Some of it's going to be visible. Move that paper because it's grungy and inky and now I'm going to take some versa marking. The stays on dry super, super quick, so make it a little bit on my pad, but this is my standard pad anyway, so I'm not super worried about it. So you want to choose what areas you want to have some gold on. We're not rubbing it over the entire thing because we don't want gold over all of those edges. We only want it on some. So where we got our ink. So I'm going to pour the ink or the embossing powder on there. I actually pretty much like the way it landed. If you get any straight lines, just take a soft brush and gently brush that embossing powder. And it will come off. So nothing is permanent until you heat set it with the embossing gun? I typically like most stuff. I just don't like any straight lines because that's I mean, as natural as this is, it's not natural. So I'm going to put that power back in there. I'm going to rub any embossing, embossing powder that stuck to that piece of paper because we're gonna be using some bronze powder next, and I don't want the mixed. I'm going to heat set this first. Can't use it, can't put the first remark on and then do the bronze powder now, because this isn't heat set, if I start putting the rubbing my palette over, I'm just going to rub this radar. As you can tell while I was doing that, my card slot curved, That's totally fine when it gets to the point where we're at the end, we'll make sure to flatten it. And when I glue it onto my card base, I will just put a acrylic block and some weight down there to flatten it. Alright, And at this point, just check it over quickly just to make sure that everything that can be embossed is embossed. Once again, we don't want to start rubbing, are embossing cat over top of it and move to powder. Alright, so now we're going to put a pad on and we're gonna put bronze over this. Whatever areas we get highlighted this area or with. This bit of embossing powder or ink. There we go. If I didn't find after that first time, if I didn't find that I had enough gold on there, I could easily go back and add some more gold. Getting low on my bronze powder, copper powder would work as well. This is powder that I've had for I want to say probably 20 years. It's been a long time. I've got to go to a long, long time ago. So it doesn't go bad. Hit lasts a long time. Alright. I'm going to rub off that as well because I don't want any of that ink or that powder on there. This here, I ended up getting just a big blob and I don't like that, so I'm going to take some of that off. And here I've got some straight edges that I'm going to soften. And like I said, now's the time. If you've got some edges, you don't really like to soften them. Once it's melted on, you can't take anything away. At this point. You can take whatever you want away. There we go. If you want, you can go back and add some more gold. You can go back and add some more brands. I think I'm actually going to add a little bit more bronze kind of in this area here. There's nothing in there. The other thing you can do is you can tell that it only goes on the most raised areas, any of these really back parts, it doesn't go on. So you could take embossing re inker and you can paint it on the areas that you want it on. But just keep in mind that it's going to end up being heavier. Then if you adjust rubbed in ink pad on so you can do it, but it is going to end up looking a little bit heavy. So be prepared for that just because you have a little puts more ink on it basically. There we go. I think I'm going to leave that like that. Last step. If you wanted to go into, wanted more of the gold and the copper metal, you absolutely could add more to it. You get to choose how much or how little you want on there. So the last step I'm going to do, put that black on there again just to get a bit more grand genus in there, a little bit more of the dark. It just enhances it and it also just, I don't know, it just brings it to life almost. There we go. Because it's permanent. You can do is use it on a non porous surface like the embossing powder, like the metal powder, metal, paper. And it's permanent. So there we go. And then like I said before, I just put it on a card and added a sentiment, just left the embossed image to be the main focal point of the card. So I'll see you in the next one. And we're going to emboss the jelly print. 16. Embossed Background using a Gelli Print: Alright, so for this one we're going to emboss the jelly print. We're only going to use the 2D embossing folder just to keep it simple. The one thing that we need to do this is a jelly print, this leftover from the alcohol ink jelly printing class that I have on here. So one thing we need to do, I typically jelly print onto copy paper. And that's not going to be heavy enough to emboss width to put on our card. So we need to apply that to some card stock. But before that, I'm going to cut this down. So my card stock is four and a quarter by 5.5. It's just the front of the size of a crunch of a card. So I'm going to cut this print down to that size. What that does is it gives it a little bit of extra wiggle room so that I can cut it down to four inches by five and a quarter after I've glued this on here, just in case it doesn't glue completely straight, just gives me a little bit of wiggle room. So I have a piece of tape back in here that I use for this. I just let the glue dry on it and reuse it over and over again. I've got my piece of card stock here. You could even use a colored piece of card stock. It doesn't need to be white. I've got some distress collage media. This is the same stuff. Is this this is just an, a pot. This has got a fine tip. And I've got a Collage brush there. I'm going to dip it in my glue. And I'm going to spread it all over the back. I want to make sure that the back is completely covered. That my piece here will completely cover are completely glute glued to the card stock. I don't want to leave openings. And I also want to have a nice thin even coat through the whole thing. So this needs to be closed. I'm going to let this dry for a few minutes and then we'll trim it down. While I'm letting that dry, I'm going to clean my Collage brush. You don't want to let your glue to dry on here. I just discovered there is a way to get it off and I'll be doing a YouTube video on it. But it's much easier to clean your brush and then forget about it and have to fix it afterwards. So I'll see you in a moment. Alright, my paper has had a few minutes to dry, so I'm just going to trim it down and I really liked this corner, so I'm actually just trimming a quarter-inch off of each side. If you preferred something in the middle, you could absolutely trim a little bit off of all four sides. This goes in the garbage. And then I'm going to emboss this, making sure that butterflies are out away. And let's grab the machine. I want to have that bottom plate. Where's my folder? And there we go. All right. So it's pretty, but you really can't see those butterflies. So I'm going to use my ink pad and my brush. And let's bring them out. Once again, light handed. And it's just going to make those butterflies pop a little bit on that card stock. Now, I chose the burgundy color to ink it with. I could totally use the purple color as well, or a combination of each. I could be doing ink on it with burgundy on top of the purple. Purple ink on top of the burgundy. Just decided to keep it fairly simple. But it's a great way to use up some of those extra jelly prints that you may have hanging around. You could also do this with printed paper. It doesn't necessarily need to be a jelly print. But I've been doing a lot of jelly printing lately. I've got a lot of extra papers that are accumulating and it's always a great way to use them. Just add a bit of different texture to it. And once again, this card here, I only added a sentiment. You could also in cup of butterfly and add a dimensional butterfly on there that would be really pretty too ink that with the burgundy color outside of the wings are on the outside of the wings. I think for that one I would ink at burgundy, this one here, I would probably leave it white because I think it makes the white bits on the outside kinda just stand out a little bit more and it pops them out a little bit more. So their ideas are endless. And again, this is butterflies. It could be leaves, it could be just an all over background pattern. The sky is the limit. There we go. I'm going to leave that like that. I like it a little bit more subtle because I also don't want to lose the detail of that Chile print. There we go. And then you end up with something like this. Obviously these are different because you can never once ever, no matter how hard you try and get an identical jelly print when you're jelly printing. But just a fun way to use up those jelly prints. Use that some of those printed papers and give them a little bit extra texture. 17. Creating an Embossed Background with Pigment Powders: We've come to our last technique in this class, be forewarned. This one's messy. Your hands, you're going to get messy. If you prefer. You can wear some rubber gloves to keep them protected. We're going to use some color pigment powders. Now I have color burst. And I'm going to also use some perfect pearls to put a little bit of shimmer in there. You could also, there's something called Lindy is magical powders. You can also use those. They're gonna be beautiful. I just don't have a local source for them. So I chose to do to use what I have. Another pigment powder that would work is brush. Those would work as well. So what we're going to do is we're going to take these powders and we're going to put them on our embossing folder. Now the reason this was left for last in this class is because this is going to make a bit of a mess. And you're going to want to rinse your plates just in case some of this seeps out. And you're also going to need to rinse this your embossing folder under a tap afterwards for sure. Now let's add a little bit of the perfect prose. Now the color burst powders are going to move around a little bit when we spray this with water, the perfect prose pretty much stick where you, where they land. So just be prepared. They're not those are not going to really move, but the brush spray color burst will totally move around. So let's move that to the side. Move this to the side. Anything that could be ruined. So let's move it to the side. And I'm going to spray this with water. Then I'm gonna put my paper in and I'm gonna bring my big shot machining. So just use a couple sprays actually, I want a little tiny bit more. Try not to move your paper around when you put it into your folder. Machine here. So you can see the water is already seeping through the paper. That's totally fine. Some of it is going to seek out of the folder and onto your plates. Again, these are all water-soluble so you're not going to ruin anything by having it on, but just be prepared. You want to wash all of this stuff off before you use it again. Having said that, I do love the final result. Now I think on my sample one I used a little bit more water. It does make it flow a little bit more. And when I was putting it in here, I wasn't paying attention to which side I was going to get my. So it's more on the background then on the res, butterflies. But I love how it ends up looking. Now, there's still powder in here and I can see most of it is on this side. So what I'm going to do is I'm just going to spray. I'm going to add another sheet of paper in there. It's not going to be completely covered in color. But we might as well use what color is left in there. And they're still gonna be some left in there, but there's not gonna be enough for a third impression. Let's just see what we get with this one. So again, another fun background. And then from there, it's actually wasn't as bad. I got messier last night when I was doing this. From there, simply trim it down however you want it trimmed. And then I just added a white butterfly because I thought it brought out some of the white in the print. And then just a simple sentiment. But again, that perfect pearls just adds a little bit of shimmer to the background there. And I love how the two colors blend and flow into each other. 18. Bonus Technique: Using Embossing Diffusers: I debated the whole time whether to include these are not the end of decided. Why not include them as a bonus? These are embossing diffusers and there are another option with your embossing folders. Now, I personally would only really use them with 2D folders. I think there's too much dimension in 3D as well as the fact that one of these replaces one of your cutting pads when you're running it through the machine. And because the 3D embossing folders only have one cutting pad with them, I'm not sure you'd be able to get the traction through the rollers in your machine if you only had your folder or the 3D one and the diffuser. So I only use these with 2D ones. Once again, I could be wrong. But what it does is you get the pressure of the machine where the diffuser is and there's no pressure where there's an opening. So when you run your embossing folder through your machine, this is where there was absolutely no pressure, so you get a completely flat spot. You can stamp a sentiment, you can stamp some florals or, or whatever. It just gives you some options inside your embossed area, like this one here, that would be a perfect spot to put a sentiment below. There's one here that's got a circle. You also get the inside part. So you could do a reverse where it's just embossed here and they completely flat there. I tend, this one tends to be my favorite one because I tend to like that. Look. So let me show you how they work. I got a piece of paper here. So you're going to put to your paper into your embossing folder, just like you normally would. I think I actually have two pieces here. You only need one piece of paper. And then you simply put your diffuser where you want it on your folder. If you want to, make absolutely certain that it's not going to move, you can use some dye tape or some masking tape and tape it in place. I tend to live a little bit on the edge with this. Let me grab my machine here. I'm going to take this. I'm going to turn it upside down, trying not to move it in the process. Really, it's in the middle of the folder, is in the middle there. And then I use, I tend to use my most used cutting pad because it has a little bit of a curve to it and I put it so that the curve is like this. So that the machine has that curve to get traction on folder. And then simply run it through normal. There you go. We've got a piece of card stock with the emboss edge around and then nothing in Boston, the center. Now let's move this out of the way. This particular piece of paper was four and a quarter by 5.5, which is the same size as the front of the card. And I typically do the full size when I'm embossing simply because if by chance it shifts, I now have a quarter and a quarter inch on each side leeway that I can trim it. There we go. So from there, what I typically will do is we'll ink it. I chose to do this one in the aqua color this week. It's one of my favorite colors to use clearly, though. I'm only inking the butterflies, I'm not inking the center. I want to keep that nice and clear. Obviously. Doesn't matter. It doesn't have to be a butterfly. It could be leaves, it could be polka dots, it could be an all over pattern. I just chose to use this one for all my 2D cards simply because I like it and it's nice and springy summary. Then I'm just going to take a stamp that fits in that center. This one is on the small side. You could definitely choose something a little bit bigger and just stamp it and then put it, glue that onto the base of our card. And super-simple card. And like I said, it could be any 2D folder that you like. The only thing I would tend to shy away from it, some 2D folders have like say, just embossing on one of the corners or whatever, I would choose something that has an all over pattern so that you get the effect all the way around. There you go. That's how you use in a bathroom diffuser. 19. Embossing Tips, Tricks & Techniques Class Thank You: Thank you so much for joining, joining me for the embossing folders, tips, tricks, and techniques class. I hope you enjoyed it and I hope you learned a bunch of different ways that you can use your embossing folders. Beyond just plain embossing. I hope to see you soon in another class.