DJI Drones: How To Become The Ultimate Pilot

1. Promo Video: I'm Alex from alec schulman dot com and welcome to this fantastic course on D. J. I'm a finance and technology writer and teacher who's been doing this for over five years. I've taught students from 170 countries and had thousands of people raid more material to better their lives in many different in this course off teaching about many different things, along with safety hatching, get up and flying super quickly. How to get photos. Videos for your drive haven't actually crush. You'll be out to get those silky, smooth cinematic videos that ever lost. Watch withdraw whilst at the same time making sure you, David, for my own sake, you other people as a quick over here. This course contains general information about the drone of technology inside a comprehensive review about control. The application burns itself drug laws as well. Safety mentioned. Those contains a dedicated section to make sure that you know all the information that how to avoid damaging our It also goes toe basic as well as advanced flying maneuvers with actual how to step by step for years, showing you allow the control moves and everything like that, and finally that doesn't miss the photography and video section to make sure that you get gorgeous. His course was designed around the three main D. J R drugs, which is the spark magic full part If you have another drink from Day J, or even a different during manufacturer, this course will be very, very helpful for still, but it is designed mainly for those three. You can not only get up in the within hours by taking this course. We also learned about key features that will help you really get the most out of your door . So in Rome, there and become an ultimate you. 2. Section 1 - Welcome: Hey, go. I'm Alex from alec shulman dot com. And welcome to this fantastic course all about D. J R drones. No, when talking to most people that don't own a drawing to have a lot of questions about that fast all day, how long did they last in the do they take? Photos have powerful was the camera you know, expensive, But there's lots of questions, but two people that actually only drive one of the main points that by encounter, especially with people who just bought them, is they have quite a bit of fear off flying them for the first time. Now D. J. Germans in particular, can be quite expensive, this one with the final combo other than Australia. So it cost me upwards off $2000. A lot of money. That's understandable that if you have a float adjourned before, it could be quite daunting. You know, you might fly into a trade. You mind do something wrong that you know where often could fall out of the sky. There could be no fault of your own. Lady Bird just slides into it, proof that goes all your thousands of dollars crashing down around you. So it's very understandable that people are nervous about flying their drones for the first time. That's actually one of the main goals off. This course is actually to make you aware of all the things that you need to know to be confident. Flyer. So that used to go out there for the very first time I know in the back of the head that okay with this, I know all. I need to know exactly what I need to do, what I shouldn't do to make sure that by safe and that I don't go waste thousands of dollars there. That's one of the girls. There are five total goals to this course. The other main goals are 2nd 1 which is to make sure that you are fully aware of all the details. So to make sure that you know how powerful memories, how fast the during country go all the different features and specifications and just generally answering all those questions that new people that may or may not have a job to have about their drug or other drones. The third golf course is to make sure that you're a safe and legal pilot So this is a couple of things. It is making sure that you know where the laws are for your country and had a abide by what they are, but also making sure that you know you don't get hit by these propellers like actually a bit of damage. Pick it up improperly, especially while it's on. And also it's a few other people as well. If your drone falls out of the sky very seriously injured people, even worse it over cars, buildings. So that's going on three. The fourth goal is to make sure that you're using it to force potential. A lot of people, especially these days with technology they buy it. They have a fancy toy and really have no idea how to use it. They might use it to fly up and down, back and forth. You know that's about it. Although buy an expensive iPhone, just use it estimates or something like that. It's not really using it to its forced potential, especially with something like a drone, which could be multiple thousands of dollars on a Make sure that you're using your drone to its force potential on getting your money's worth out of it. And the final goal off the course is to make sure that you understand how to take proper photos and videos with your drawing. A lot of people were the main reasons they buy drones is to take very nice videos, holiday shots, all that sort of things. So I'll be covering how toe take good photos, videos and the differences between when taking a video or a photo when the camera versus doing with George, there are considerable differences and also things you can control time control with various different things and how to get around them. So they're the five main goals of the course, and to do that will be going through a number of different sections off course. So just to give you a brief outline off the sections that will be to come. The very 1st 1 is just giving general specs and herbal information about the drones or control is the differences between getting you up to speed with all the lingo? Three letter acronyms pull that sort of stuff. The section after that will be a special, dedicated section, making sure that you're really confident for doing that first flight a little sort of tips and tricks. They have a lot of things in the manual, but is also a lot of other things that they don't tell you that that actually quite important. One of them is, for instance, flying inside. It's actually quite a dangerous thing to do, especially if you've never flown your drawing before. Many people think that it's safer. Option inside is safe from the outside, but it's actually the opposite. So avoid that from Mary Began and that sexual make sure that you're confident when you go out there for the first time in your knowing what you should. What should you do when you saw your turn? The third section will cover the controllers. So both the Spark and Medic controls, as well as the Phantom Serious controls, will also cover the deejay I at, which is actually quite complicated when you really dig into its simple to use but has a lot of settings and things that are good to know about the future, so we'll cover them. Animal also cover. As I said, safety laws had more time herself will find your laws and go over a few examples of the more popular countries like a Meritor. And what if your during pilot there, you need to do it after that, once we got you up to speed with the drone is what controller is what the app is. All the information surrounding it will be going through actual flying drones. So simple things from taking off all the way right up to using the advanced intelligent birds to do or let it fly. And even how to use multiple, you know, joystick Kember combinations to get best results. So once have gone through that section the final sections generally, about, as I said, taking photos and videos from making a difference. Also, accessories that deejay have that party accessories party software options that you can use but to control the drone and also a good extract applications to have on top of the deejay go up and also communities forms where to get more information. You store more part of other bits and pieces, so that's a brief overview of what the course will entail. And before we go any further, I just want to make a note that because there are so many drones that deejay produce, it would be extremely talk consuming for me toe go through all this information with each and every single drug would just take me for ever know that bore you to tears. So for the owners of the deejay sparked and magic Per, please pay attention to when I do demonstrations with Maverick The control is a very similar on any differences between sparking a medical point out, make sure you're aware off and also beginning proof demonstrations with teachers, the flying off demonstrations flying up and down All those sorts of things would be done primarily with the medic and for people that have phantom Germans pay attention. When I obviously do demonstrations with phantom again over through the controllers and all the bits and pieces of fainting that but I'm gonna be focusing mainly on those three spark the medic per faint and four per Siri's. Those are the main three facing consumer drones. Deejay, seldom most popular, usually the maverick. From what I can tell us the most populous, I'll be focusing mostly on that And just to let you know that you know, like my cargo three single combinations, I apologize in advance If you have, you really want to see it sparked controller on. I don't go through that. That's fine, I will tell you the difference between demonstrators, marches, cans and one more point as well is that if you just got your drawing of you just had delivered or impact already todo race out there and start flying, I would say Please don't know yet. Please watch up until the safety videos at the bare minimum. As I said, there's a lot of little got choose. I mean, they are very easy to fly. They will literally take off and fly themselves. Four year old can do it, but you must have a lot of information in the background and understand what it's doing. Otherwise, you have very serious unintended consequences. Where will fly off its seemingly on its own and unbeknownst to you, and perhaps crash into a tree. There goes our money or worsen crashing to a car ability. A person. There's a lot of bad things that could go wrong. Please watch up to the safety videos of absolute minimum before you run out there, go stop flowing, and that will ensure that your legal and safe for yourself in every else as possible. So I think that covers just about everything. Let's actually stop getting into the course material and once again, welcome and thank you for taking the schools. 3. Section 1 - Special Note For Mavic Air Owners: Hey guys, and I know you're wanting to get into this course, but I just wanted to make a quick note for those that have the DJI Medicare. Now I don't explicitly covered that drone in this course, but I do want to make sure that you know that the bulk of this course still applies to the Medicare. Now, I don't cover the drawing itself about things like the remote controller are identical to the DJI spark. So I will still essentially be covering that. Things like safety for yourself and people around you and you're flying drones still very applicable, things like laws in your country and what you have to do to perhaps register your drone. All still apply. Even things like the DJI go for app, the intelligent plot modes. These are things that are universal across DJI products. So get all still applies to the maverick air. So I would very much encourage still watching this course and still doing this course because I think you'll learn a lot of information. So just wanted to make that quick note for those of you who have come on board with the new Medicare, this course is still for you, so hopefully you really enjoy it. And that's all I'll say. Thanks very much. 4. Section 2 - 1 - The Differences Between Drones: How are you going? And welcome to the first section of this course. So I'm going to get right into it and start going through all the basics for drones and all the terminology that you'll be doing would soon. To begin with. I just wanted to make the point that These drones are very easy to fly. You can take off with a push of a button. You can land with a push of a button. Four-year-old can literally fly these things like hover in place and you don't even have to do it. You can go and have lunch. But they are incredibly, incredibly complicated. So just to give you a bit of an idea of just how complicated they are, I just thought I'd quickly go through a case scenario. Imagine that this maverick pro is doing active track and it's tracking me as I'm wondering around recordings and video, a very standard use case. It's something that you'll probably do a number of times with your drawing. Explain what active track is, but essentially it's tracking an object and keeping them in focus off the video to go through what this thing is actually doing to begin with, it's flying. In the early days of drones when DJI wasn't able to accompany drawings that you've built, they didn't have these fancy controllers and everything kingdom. You physically had to fly them and make sure I didn't do this or that or just fall out of the sky or something. They didn't just hover in place like these things do. Now, that takes a huge amount of computational power inside to do that. Large amount of arrays from GPS to ultra science on the bottom, too many, many things independently controlling all four motors to make sure that it stays stable and gives you a good camera view and it's not all shaky and makes your motion sickness. But most of all, it's just trying to keep itself in the air and all the safety around that and making sure it doesn't fly into no fly zones, keeping track of where it is, where it's going, where it's being from. On top of this, it's recording in 14th, the metric and the recording in 4k. That's a huge amount of pixels. Phones have only recently just been able to start recording. And for kids, the very demanding thing and not only that, but it's tighten that recorded footage that it's recording onto the SD card inside of it, and sending a teeny-tiny version of that back to your remote control and your phone so you can actually see what it says. It's doing that as well. On top of that, it's doing its object recognition and trucking. So as I said, this is active track, so it needs to type the input footage that it's saying. Recognize that on the person from the background and the IEP needs to track me as I move around. That in itself is a huge ask as well. It takes a large amount of computational power. Tell me recently really been really robust thing to do with the introduction of machine learning and neural net. That's a very advanced feature that also doing this is all at the same time. Along with that, it's monitoring the health and well-being of the drone as well as the actual factory itself. It's making sure, as I said, there's not flying into Airport zone or something like that. It's also doing its object avoidance. So with this, you've got the front seat facing sensors and the bottom placing sensors, so it's making sure it doesn't fly into a wall or a tree as it attracts me as the object going around. Finally, it's probably doing even more stuff than what I'm talking about here. Loads and loads of other things. I think Intel Y now, they are not done toys, they are seriously highly complicated pieces of equipment. Then, quite frankly, stunned at just how amazing and simple they weren't considering the level of complex technology that's inside it. So don't always please don't think of them as just another remote control helicopter, that quadcopter instead of a helicopter. I personally owned RC helicopter. It took weeks of practicing and flying just to make sure that I didn't do this, just go crash at Rod. He needed quite a lot of skill to actually do that because they didn't have all the senses and technologies inside of that helped it to actually stabilize itself. And from there it's just going even more preserved. As I said, tracking, object recognition, bullet sort of stuff. So that's the first thing I wanted to say. Please bring consider them as just sort of slightly better remote control helicopters via our whole different ballgame. From here, I just wanted to go into the specifications. As I said, this is joined by six. So I'm gonna bring up a chart now that compares. The three major drones. So this is the chart that you can see in front of you. There are the three main drones, which are the spark, dramatic PR, and the phantom for PR. As you can see, those price points are in US dollars and I'm pretty sure they're not a mistake that they're going from $500 up to one hundred, ten hundred dollars and then up to $1500. The spock is generally speaking meant for newer palette. That's meant for people who really want ultra mobility. They want, you know, the cheapest cost coming in at that $500 mark. And it's just great for general taken photos with a holiday casual joining top of stuff. So as you can see from the list there, you've got a 16 minute fly time. You've only got two axi of stabilization with the gimbal. You've got a fairly decent 12 megapixel camera. However, it only shoots ten ADP video, not for k. So that is a definite downside to the Spock. However, it is incredibly small and fits in the palm of your hand. And we'll talk about things like electric palm watch and Tom land above. It's considerably smaller than something got the magic product. So if you haven't look here, this is the size of the maverick prior. The DJI spark fits in the palm of your hand. It's even smaller than the actual MacBook Pro, so it's considerably more portable and much better to take around two views, chuck it in your backpack or something like this. However, I will say the metric prior foams up the spock. The blades do fold up, the legs don't go anywhere as the Pro has the ability to fully folded up like this. And once it is all folded up, It's actually quite comparable in size to the spot. I mean, obviously, it's not as small as the Spock, but it still fits quite comfortably in the palm of your hand. If you take that a little bit further and actually look at the bags that they contain in the medic perfect is very, very small, but it's actually smaller than our digital SLR camera bag. This bag will not only fit the actual drawing itself, but it will also fit the remote controller and another two batteries on top of it. So this is really all you need to carry around with the anodic Pro. And considering how much longer flat time, a better video. You can watch a bit of video you can get out of them having PR. I generally consider it to be the better drawing than the Spock. How do I do understanding of a $1000 is a bit out of your budget. Going back to the diagram, we'll move on to the maverick PR. And as you can see, the slot time is one of the biggest features in that. It has essentially doubled up from six to eight minutes to 27. This is one of the key things that you can obviously follow for twice as long. You can also fly favorite FASTA at the 65 kilometer analemma. You also get that really quite critical upgrade to fork when recording video. You also get three-axis stabilization with the gimbal and also quite importantly, the range of the remote control law. These things, the DJI spark does come with its own control. It, if you purchased the fly more combo for this plot. However, the spark or my controller will only go up to two kilometers, whereas the magnetic pro one will go all the way up to seven kilometers, which is quite a considerable late wherever. The medic Pro for me, as I said, I do think it is the better drawn out of all three of them that combines not just the full video recording, but also the ability to still be very portable, almost as portable as the spot itself. Moving on to the phantom for pro, this is pretty much the top of the range unless you start getting into the Inspire, which are many, many thousands of dollars or more for your film enthusiasts, people that just refused to take any hit on video quality will be pulling in for K at 60 frames per second, as opposed to the maverick, which is only at 30 frames per second. It's also for those who want to fly in a bit more harsh weather. I mean, you still not gonna be flying these in torrential rain or anything like that. But being a big a drone, the DJI phantom series have always been a big a drone, especially comparing it to the Maddox that came out recently. As such. That big F that have bigger murders, they could fly faster, they can fly in more higher winds and all that. Along with that, you could get a slightly, slight increase in flocked time up to 30 minutes, which isn't too bad either. But the same range for the control of. One other good thing about the phantom series is that it actually has five directions of object avoidance. And now this one is the Phantom three series. You can tell the gold over the top of it. The Phantom full prior looks very similar about the top of it is very shiny as well. On the sides of the phantom full PR that I have the object avoidance, so that's all good for all sides, whereas the medic Pro only has them up to the top for the front, and down the bottom here for the ultrasonic and the camera. That's something to consider that as well. The Fenton full Pro, although it is a lot more bulkier and that you will probably need a reasonable size of Backpack to actually transported as opposed to this very small case. It does have its place. It's for people who want to take uncompromised video, uncompromised photos. It also has a different controller to this, which can allow for tablets to be put in it. So you can actually see a bigger view of what you're saying. You can put big hoods around it to make sure that it protected from sunlight. It's basically giving you a lot more control and all those sorts of things, different options for a bigger drawing, but it does have that downside that it is not nearly as mobile. And for us personally, that was a pretty critical factor. We wanted something small. You can just throw into your onboard luggage, goes rotting next to cellular laptop or maybe your digital ISO camera next to it. And off you go, you've got both camera and drawing, which is what we did in Iceland. Tripping. Iceland is incredibly windy and the Maddox still did fantastically over there. And show you a bit of footage now. So this is footage of the medic pro flying in Iceland. When we were over there, we hired a car and the lady actually told us that we have to be very careful because Iceland is very windy and if the wind caught the door on our car, it may actually rip the car door off and that wouldn't be covered with our warranties. So she thought she needed to set up let us know about that. A bit of a fact that that should give you an idea of just how windy Iceland was and it was very windy. There were times when we couldn't fly the drawing because it was pouring rain and otherwise, but as you can see from this footage, it's quite smooth and was just amazed. It did complain a little saying high wind fly with caution, but I was still able to fly, still able to get fantastic footage, and I was just very impressed with it. So you can say night out, nomadic Pro is my favorite. It's the best combination of portability and high-quality video. But both the spark and the phantom for PRO have this spot and have their use cases where it's a professional filmmaker and you don't care about crammed into a tiny little bag. You're taking huge and into film equipment than the phantom series is definitely for you, possibly the Inspire series. But I will have their place. All the specs of all these three drawings do add up to basically, it doesn't matter which one you buy. You're gonna get an incredibly capable drone that has fantastic onboard stabilization, that has really great camera optics, takes in a lot of what gets you fantastic photos, has a great range and certainly better than a lot of the other rubbish. $100 joins or something that you might find that they usually die and they have maybe 5678 minutes flat time, or you can control them up to a 100 meters away or something like that. Even the Spock Finn is two kilometers with the controller. And as I said, tinted with the video recording. So those are the main specs for the main three drones that will be covered. Next, I wanted to get into actually setting up your drawing from when you receive it. So I'll talk to you then. 5. Section 2 - 2 - Setting Up Your Drone: Welcome to this next section which is on setting up your drone. This process will be slightly different for the different drones. Obviously, if you've purchased a spark, you'll have the Spock case with a spark inside. If you've purchased a phantom full prior, you will have a phantom for prior case with a payment for pro inside. I'm going to be going to a lot of data with the magic part, but do be aware that a lot of what I say is very common to a lot of the other drones. I mean, the Spark has propellers, spock has a gimbal and the Phantom four has propellers and getting booths. And I'll be sure to point out any differences and demonstrate anything that's different between them. But just because it's one of the most popular ones, I will be demonstrating mainly with the magic. When you open it up, you should see your drawing your control law. It's in pieces. To begin with. Just remember to look in all the little bits in place or places. To start with my own, to take the Controller app. We're going to be covering a lot of this later under the controller section. So I'll just put this to the side. Now. That section we'll cover with sticks, the buttons on sort of stuff. So don't worry, I will get to that. But for now, just putting it to the side inside, you've got more little fun thing is you've got your manual as you've got your fabric, all these sorts of things. We'll go through them all to start with. We will take out the actual drawing. So you want to make sure you grab it from a solid section in it and then pull it out gently. Put this to the side just for the time they we can focus on the drone itself. This is the unit, I must say when I first got mine, it was absolutely shocking to me just how smaller ones you can see. It's not quite as small as the Spock, but it's definitely extremely small. It's getting quite close to the size of maybe a mobile phone, which would be about this big. While you're investigating everything of the motors and the drone itself and over little bits and pieces. One quick thing that you might want to do is to take the battery out and put it on charge so that you can go through, look at all the sections in De Tao and watch this video and go through it all while your batteries on charge. This is the battery here. We can press once to say what the charge is up. This is at about 20%. It's quite large. To get it out. Hold on the bottom EMS on either side and just simply fold the legs out like so. Once you've done that, you'll expose the two points on the battery that you need to push together. So you're pinching them together like this. And you're pulling up, pinch together and wriggle up your battery, you can go put that on charge and come back to a lighter when it's all fully charged. You've looked at all this other stuff, so you're gonna do that now just pause the video and go chuck it on charge. That'll allow you to get a bit of a jumpstart. Next step is you'll want to take off all the plastics that you can't really say them Oman because I've been flying it for a wall, but you always will have warning stickers. It'll have pieces of plastic over the cameras here, cameras down there. For the families for priority, you might have ones on your actual propeller blade as well. So take all those off. Generally speaking, you can throw them out. One thing you should not throw out. One thing that is very serious that you shouldn't throw at is the actual gimbal itself. So that's this part here. So when you do remove it and I'll show you how to do that in a second. Dart, throw it at capable. You've already half why unfolded and we might as well fully unfolded. These arms are generally the easiest part of the folding process. Mixed one, put your hand on the top of the drawing and just flip it over so that you've got a good solid holding onto the drawing there. Make sure these propellers, they tend to clip on the actual fate down here. You can sort of follow them over a bit if you want. But I always just make sure they're well clear of any obstacles before you start doing the second stock, stick and pot of the following. Now you want to hold onto the base of the drawing and just simply fold. Again. Shouldn't be any resistance. I mean, it is a bit stiff to undo it the first time, but it shouldn't be catching on or do you think if it's really difficult to unfold, you want to essentially stop and make sure nothing's getting caught on anything or anything like that. So that's how you unfold your mark. From here, we're going to have a look at the actual game board itself. So. These, in a bit. The gimbal is made up of a few parts. The first part is the silicone, silicon cover on the top of it that covers the actual gimbal cover. To remove the cover and the silicon wrap on site, you just keep the silicone on. It just adds a bit of extra bit of protection. And this clip here, and you want to push it forward and pull back. So it will just push forward and pull off like that. And not quite done yet. You've got the gimbal silica and the Kaaba. And this is like a locking mechanism piece of plastic for the game where you can see that it doesn't really move or even clocked out and that's because this is holding it in place. So you want to pinch with your fingers together and pull up well, sorry, I pinch and pull up these two pieces here, make sure you do not throw them at. You want to keep these forever. They are fantastic for making sure that this very fragile for case into it doesn't get damaged at all. So you can go fly or drawing around and then come back afterwards. Put this back in, put that back on and it's fantastic to travel with. One thing to make sure I'll cover in a bit more De Tao in the next section. But this locking mechanism actually locks in the gimbal and it's fantastic for travel as I said. But never turn your drawing on with it. Don't turn your drone on with it. Because when you are drawing turns on this gimbal will look up, look down and just basically go through some self diagnostics top stuff and it's locked in place with this, then it can actually burn out the motor and damage your drones and make sure that you keep it and do use it, but never turn your drawing on with it. So I'll just put it back in as well. It can be a bit fiddly at times, you get used to it. And this one.com as well. We'll flip it over to reveal the drawing. From here, you will notice that there are two propellers that are on two pillars To propel us out. We'll put this to the side and go hunting for our other propellers. As you might have guessed, our other propellers are going to be in his books. You've got your manuals or your warranty cards. You'll POW block, which is a good thing that you tend to plug in. You will also find another cable that will come with it inside here, which you can plug in and charge your remote control while this actually charges the battery. The Phantom method. Also find these other little cables in here which I'll cover later. Therefore connecting the remote controller to your farm. But whereas propeller, propeller blades, a lot of people or takes them a while to figure this out. Propeller blades are actually hidden underneath this thing here. So this is a nice squishy thing to make sure that the drawing doesn't get damaged. Move that out of the way and you've got your propellers here which will be going onto the drug. And you've also got another two in here, just in case, heaven forbid you crash and need some space. So now that we've got those drawing back over here and get to looking at the propellers now. Pretty easy to spot when it's pointed out to you. But if it's not pointed out to you, it's very hard to see. And that is the silver ring on a white ring and the no white ring here. And what that is for is to go with the white ring on the motor or the normal ring on the non-modal. So even though the propellers look very similar by actually different, There's the two white ones here and the two black ones here. And the reason is that In spins clockwise, the other ones pins anticlockwise and for the phantom three series. And previous to the metric, they used a screwing mechanism, which I'll be showing on the phantom three later on for these, for the spock, for the phantom, for they all use the quick release. So you can see these little jotting out bits here. It's known as screw. It's more of a kind of like a lot bulb. You grab hold of the actual silver merger part, put it on. And you can push down and rotate, certainly a slot, rotate just to lock it in place, and That's it. That's your propeller attached. Same here. Grab the middle, turn it around until you feel it going down in, and then a quick twist, and that's locked in. So now we've got all four of our propellers locked in. And you'll notice that I followed up my fold-out. Another quick tip. Some people, for some reason think that if you're flying the drawing and you take it out and we put it on the ground and you're about to go flying, but you need to undo all the commas before you fly. But fun fact is that you don't, you can actually stop flowing like this. As the propeller spins up, it will actually push the blades out on its own and stop flying normally. So there's no need to manually pull them out each and every time it's relevant. Makes things a little bit quicker. As I said, these are the same for the Spock and the phantom. For the phantom, three requests, green ones, which I'll show later on. The spot, comes with all four of them attached. This MacBook Pro only has two of them attached. And the Phantom four doesn't come with any of them attached to it. You have to attach all four of them. So it's kind of small, medium, large, or attaching some attached, no attach site. Other way it's good to know how to attach them, even if you don't have to run a wife. Now that we've gone through the gimbal and the propellers and everything. Let's have a look at all the buttons. So I will start out with the biggest button of all, which is the Pi bond. This is actually part of the battery itself. And if you just press it once you'll get the power status of the battery. So as I said, this is very lower, needs to be charged a bit to actually turn the drawing on, need to press it and then press it again and hold. Press and press and hold. You'll see the LA days laptop. This twitching of the blades is very normal. You get the startups and then you say, well the LED is flashing, is it tries to connect. There's no remote controller connected to it all on or anything like that. So we get this orange, yellow flashing lot to turn it off exactly the same but in reverse. So you press and press and hold and the LA days reverse, go back down and everything shuts off. That's a turn it on and off. Walking around the drawing more. As I said, you've got these two cameras up here, which are the forward facing object avoidance cameras. You've got the two cameras down here, which are the bottom facing object avoidance cameras. Then you've got these two pieces here, which are two ultrasonic sensors which help the maverick stabilize indoors and they obviously produce ultrasonic sounds. So if you have a dog inside while you're drawing is using these, he may actually go a bit naughty because he'll obviously be out of here, that ultrasonic sound, you won't, but you'll probably be chasing your drawing anyway. It's a flying drone inside his house, but just a word of caution. If you do have pits, they may get a bit NAPQI at those senses. Living ran. We have this little latch here, which contains the microSD card and the Wi-Fi to ACI switch. So the microSD card is where it stores all the footage or photos and all that stuff. The Wi-Fi and ACI switch is to actually switch up between the remote control, operating and controlling of either remote to controlling it via your phone. So you can actually control the maverick, similar to how you can control the spark just with your phone using Wi-Fi connections and you need to switch it into that Wi-Fi mode to do that. Personally, I never use it. I always use the controller. It's got a much stronger signal up to seven kilometers wide. And the Spock, if you actually get the fly more combo, you'll get the controller as well. And I'd recommend using that because it has up to two kilometers away. But you can switch between them if you wish. If you don't have the controller for some reason. Moving on to the other side of the drawing, we have another tiny little drawer. In here. We see the micro USB connector points. So for this, you can plug them, mark our USB cable in and that will enable you to download the video and photos from the micro SD card, just like you would, for instance, a camera or maybe a phone or something like that. It'll just pop up as another storage DeVos. You can't charge the drawing via that thing, so don't try to charge. You have to remove the battery and plug it into your charging block, which I showed before. You can also use that port for firmware update. You can also do firmware updates using the controller and you'll farm, which is the way I usually do it. It gives you a little more feedback and just seems to, it seems to work quite well. People swear by losing the cable probably is a little bit quicker to do the data transfer, but the two separate ways that you can do it. So that's pretty much the entire maverick from start to finish. One other thing is the LEDs on the back here. You've also got LEDs on the front here as well. That's pretty much here. You've got all the buttons and senses, and propellers and Gimbels, not from top detail. The last thing is how to fold it back up again, Steve, unfolding you want to put it away? Nail start with Put your finger off the top and grab the main body of the medic, flip it over again. You want to make sure these propellers are well and truly clear of anything you want to grab by the motor part and then just very gently fold it back over. I usually like to switch hands just because it's easier. Same thing, fallback over keeping on those propellers. Once those two are folded over, grab the main base of it, flip it over and you want to hold those like, sorry. There's your drawing all folded up again. Now that we've gone through the medevac from top to title and all the boxes and all the little bits and faces and all the stuff inside. The other drawings, the Spock and the Phantom, as I said, they're very similar. They tell us they'll have batteries, they all have buttons and cameras and Gimbels and all that sort of stuff. Just to let you know the differences for the spock. The main things that a difference between the spark and the medic part isn't the propellers all come attached. These two don't come attached with the metric, but all four of them for this box. And you don't have to worry about putting them on with the spot, but it is still good to know how to operate these quick release propellers. The back of the Spock above the battery on the button is where the actual micro USB cord is. On. The spark are in here you have a button that you can press to power it on. So it's the exact same button and patho here. But the battery goes in this compartment here for the spot. The US micro USB is very similar to this in that it, it doesn't charge the Spark, but it will give you access to firmware updates as well as downloading the data off the micro USB card. In terms of the Wi-Fi and the RC mode, while the Mamluk Pro has a physical switch for it, the spock is a little different. It actually uses the power button. So power button for the sparks on the back here, as I said, when you press and hold the power button for three seconds, it will set it to OSI mode. So if you did buy the fly more combo and you do have the control, you want to set it to that. If you want to set it back to the Wi-Fi mode, or you need to reset the Wi-Fi, press and hold it for six seconds. And that will set the Wi-Fi mode. So that's the main differences between the Maverick and the Spock covered the nomadic Pro and the spot. Now we want to get into the phantom series. Now, if you have the Phantom four per, it'll look slightly different to this. You'll have a much more shiny a white cover on the top here. The bottom of it is a little different in terms of how the gimbal was mounted and senses a random. That's because this is a phantom three. You can see here it's a phantom three professional series until about gold marks over the top here. But I wanted to use this because it actually has the different types of propeller. So with the phantom for these propellers, they don't actually screw one like you can see here. The quick release like the magic and the spark drawing propellers are. But I did want to demonstrate this just in case you do have a three series drawing and we're watching this video. Again, you'll find all the propeller blades in the box when you open it up. And again, just like the magic ones, have both silver and black version. So the reason for this is that basically one spins clockwise and the other ones being the anticlockwise. If you had both of them spinning the same wire like this, the drawing would actually just go around and around in circles and well, that wouldn't be very fun. No, sorry. What actually has to happen is that one has to spin one way and the other one's spins the other way. And what that does is balance and sent to the drawing and help and actually fly properly. So this is why it's a little bit more complicated having silver and black and the different Where does he have to put all the different things that may seem like a pain, but there's a very good reason behind it. So these are a bit different to the quick release ones in there. You have to actually screw them on, but it's still very simple. Silva with silver, black, with black and make it very easy. So if it goes on, rather than pushing down and twisting with the quick release, what you want to do is actually screw days on. So I just takes a quick spin and it will get to moderately tight stage. You want to hold the base again and just give it that extra bit of taut and to make sure that it's nice and secure, you do not want loose blades. You do not want them flying off mid flight and destroying your drawing. Again. Spin and just taught him a little bit, sorry. As you notice, it's the opposite direction. Down here. Again. The full form. That's pretty easy process to do. Unfortunately with the Phantom, you do have to take them off each time you put the drawings on y and wanting to transport it. Then when you take it back out again and you've got to reattach them. So you can potentially be doing this every time you fly, which is one of the reasons why I kind of liked them havoc. And also at the spot because you don't have to do that. I just followed up out of the way. Pop it in your bag. You done. But the phantom is. For more serious film is it's got that better camera, the fastest spade and all that sort of stuff. So it's a different market because it's such a big a drawing by do have some sort of limitations and you have to take off the propellers and put them on all the time. But as I said, it's a pretty easy process as you just say. Moving on to the gimbal part of the drawing, that's very similar to the medic in the gimbal, although you can't see it here, didn't have one. There's a plastic lock that will actually lock onto the gimbal and clip onto these two parts here or show a photo of it. That's what it looks like. And if you've got to make sure again, you want to keep this piece of equipment because if you're transporting this year on this Kimball, fiddling around and flapping every way of possibly getting damaged all the time you want to mocked implies nots and taught well-protected. Kate those pieces of plastic with the tandem for as well. There'll be another gray colored gimbal lock piece of plastic as well. You might miss it. If you don't know it's there. Make sure you take that out again before you turn on the drawing because it can burn out the motor trying to move when it's locked in place. It's very similar to the Maverick and what I showed you before, but just slightly different for the phantom series. That's all the information about the actual gimbal itself. Now let's have a look at the buttons. So again, we've got the marker US based micro USB port for not for charging, but for downloading data, for uploading firmware. On the other side, you've got the micro USB card for storing of the four K footage. For here. You've also got another mini USB port just in case for the phantom to turn it on, nor on the top That's actually here on the button. This is a little sticker on your property and off, but this is the battery component for the Phantom. You again say maneuver, press and press and hold. Louder than the metric. You should say the propellers do their little twitchy thing as well. Suppose I say lots coming on, as I said, very, very similar to the actual nomadic, but just slightly different because it's a faint and a different size drone. Same process to turn it off, just press once and then press and hold in 20 days, go down and everything turns off. Monitor being able to say it, but the gimbal did move around when it was being turned on. If I'd had that gimbal lock implies that it does do a fair amount of damage. So just make sure that you don't have that implies when you turn it on, the micro SD card that you get with the drone is probably a 16 gig one. In terms of speed. The Phantom four will only do 10:00 AM, sorry for k at 30 frames per seconds. So you might not need super-fast, something like the SanDisk Extreme micro SD card should be doing font for the phantom for Pro, which does for k at 60 frames per second. You'll want to get the same, this extreme pro because that can just take that slightly high a bit, right? And you want to have your videos glitching halfway through because it cannot rot that data as quickly as the drawing is producing it. So just a little note on if you aren't going to buy a new MicroSD economy, bigger one, maybe like 128 gigawatt, make sure that you get the fastest possible. Last thing is the actual battery itself. So if we push down on here and also push down on their pool, the battery should come out. It is quite difficult to do. That's good because you really do not want batteries falling yet made flat. This is the Phantom style battery. The Phantom full batteries, gray inside like this. This is obviously the phantom three series battery. The phantom for Pro battery actually is a high capacity of one, and that actually is denoted by a bit of white in these parts here, we can use the white high capacity phantom for Pro battery in the phantom it for itself and vice versa. However, you cannot use obviously these ones in the medical, the spark. It would be nice if they were interchangeable, if you are into multiple drawings, but I can't imagine how they would make them all work with the same battery. So I don't particularly blame DJI that that's all the information about the actual Phantom and the Spock and the magic Pro itself. Hope I've gone through every piece of detail on every spot, on every drawer and possible and year-old fully up to speed regardless of what drawing that you have. You can go through the rest of the bits as well. Obviously with the phantom, you'll have USB cable tables, you'll have the actual controller. I'll get to that in the control section. So don't worry about that. You'll have more details on accessories as well in another section later on. But generally speaking, it's mostly about the drone and the controller, which we'll cover later on. In the next section, we'll be looking at the fly more combo packages for all the different sense. Phantom than average and the Spock. I'll talk to you then. 6. Section 2 - 3 - The Fly More Combo Packages: It's now time to talk about the fly more combo. For the far more compound, we're gonna be talking about the magic one and the DJI spark one and what the differences does not fly more combo for the phantom series. So this will just be for magic and Spock. Or when you open it up, you say lots and lots and lots of little packages. You've got your battery, charging hub, car charger, you're extra propellers. You've got more flat bat trees and thank you adaptors and all these sorts of stuff. I'm not going to bore you with actual physical unboxing of them because to be frank, I've already on books and then find with them for a while. Sorry. Here we have the extra batteries. Pretty standard stuff. You only get one battery with the DJI medic, with the fly more comma, you get an additional two, sorry, each one of these, you get a good 25 minutes flat adults with three of them, That's quite a decent amount of flying. When you've got more charges in I'm sorry, more batteries, you run into a bit of a problem with the original and the charging cable will only charge one at a time. So it'll plugged directly into here and charge it. What you want to do when you've got three batteries is used, the charging hub, rather than plugging it into there. You plugged it into here. That sits very nicely and you can just charge, your batteries are here, and you get three obviously. And you can even buy another one. That's the battery charging hub. The other very nice additional extra that you get with the fly more combo for the maverick is this bank adapter. And it took me a while to figure out actually what this is for. You can say the connectors that match the batteries here. So it's obviously meant to do this and I don't really describe it very well on the hicks up for sort of thing. But you'll actually say it essentially converts your magic battery into charging accessory so you can grab your cable or toured. Plug it in here and plug your phone into it. So you can see here. You can just plug it in and it'll start charging. Want to actually start charging from this point because the battery itself is an on again, took me a while to figure out how to deal with this. Sorry, you've got your battery and it's all plugged in, but it's not going to start charging to actually turn it on. You got to press and then press and hold. Once it does that, the battery is on and it will start to charge your phone. So that's just a bit of information for people that are trying to use some figure out what United this bank adapters for. So I'll just turn that off here. And that'll stop charging my phone. Got that parent of the wife typo. You get the two batteries, you get the charging hub, you get the bank adapter, you don't get this cable line. You also get this very nice, very fantastic back. I think it's actually the best part of one over to this part of the flame will convert. One of the reason that's the best part is that everything fits in this bag, so the actual drawing will fit in there. I'll show you in a second. The controller will fit in there and you can essentially fit up to full batteries in this thing only supply you with three obviously, but you can fit four batteries into it. Sorry. Give me two seconds. Now we're going to turn back. Let's how to properly pack this back. So it does take a bit of know-how, how to do it. You gotta be very careful to maintain is the propellers here. So you want to make sure that they're all snugged in and snug in, locked up. The bigger area of the bag, push this side, putting out as far as it goes. I like to put it in this one. I apparently didn't put it in the otherwise. Well, I like it this way. Can be a little fiddle. It's a very tight fit. Mainly the propellers. Make sure they fly a lot when you're putting them in. You want to make sure that snugly guys in there. It should just slide in lock that you don't want to be forcing it in or anything. It does sliding properly. If you're forcing it in, you don't want it wrong. Next up we have the controller. Again. Be careful of these things. They are quite resilient, but we want to make sure, you know. Forcing it and Jamie it in, otherwise they can't break. Sorry. I have to do it on an angle. Sorry. These are protected. And you just slotted in again gently. Then we've got leftover. You already got one battery in there. Another battery can fit nicely into slides in like that. And then you're going to close this. Zipping up your two batteries, drone and remote control for the third battery and potentially forth battery of your own home. These parts here, this chuck them in this. Slide it nicely. And because it's a mesh, an extra handy paste if you want to know how full your batteries on the side, you can just feel around, push the button in the early days actually come through. So let's have properly pack your magic prior shoulder bag that comes with the fly more combo. It's one of my favorite parts on it because this is literally all you need. It's smaller than a DSLR bag. Can pretty much go anywhere. It's got three batteries. That's almost an hour and a half of flight time. We've got the controller, you've got the actual drawing itself, and you can even shoveled in there somewhere, which is usually what I do. Put it in here. You've still got more room for bits and pieces maybe or Chucky Finding there maybe some cables like USB-C or by phone cables or wherever it might be, maybe an extra iPhone battery. That's your thing. But it fits pretty much everything. That's quite fantastic. Sorry. That's how you attack the bag of you are wondering and get everything in there. Now we're having looked at the spot fly more combo and what the differences are between the havoc flood more combo and the Spock. Spock you get a controller. For one look exactly like this. This is the method control. Put a picture up of the differences. But the main difference is that the LCD screen is not on the spot control law. Now the other main difference is that this will do seven kilometers, the Spock rumble, and they do two kilometers, as I said before when we were going over the specification. But you do get the control law in the fly. More comeback. On top of that, you also get the Spock shoulder bag. It looks a little different to this malloc per shoulder back. Obviously it's for the spark and up to the Maddox, it looks a bit different. You'll also get extra batteries as well. You get propeller gods, you get charging hubs and a charge. All for the Spark itself. As I said, there's no fly more combo for the Phantom four series. I take it that this is just because it's a more professional jargon and they want to let people choose their own individual things as opposed to a big package. They do sell shoulder bags and extra batteries and different controllers for the phantom full series, I just started having fly more combo for it. Now, even though there's the differences between the Spock and the medic, I really would recommend getting the fly more combo for both of them, particularly the Spock, because you get that control line, you get that extra range taking it from Maybe ID or a 100 meters with waffling on your phone all the way up to potentially two kilometers with the remote, it makes a huge difference. But also it gives you extra control rather than controlling it just with your phone. You've got your hand on the screen controlling it with the on-screen controls. Your hands get in the way he can't really see what you're filming with the controller. It's very, very sturdy. The sticks out. Excellent. You can put your phone in here, covered or lighter and the controller section, but it just gives you much more precise control over the actual drawing itself. You can also do maneuvers where you're flying the drawing with the sticks and also using the gimbal control section here. You can do that with the app on the phone where you have the phone and you actually use the accelerometer of the fine to tilt the gimbal up and down while you're moving the sticks on the screen. But it's just much easier doing the control on top of that with the spock is also very important because you get those extra batteries. Now with the metabolic, having one battery isn't too damaging because you still get that 28 or sorry, in 2016, realistically about 25 minutes worth of flat time for the battery from what I've found brand new. That's a pretty decent slot time, especially considering how fast and far you can fly it with the SPARQL. However, there are batteries only get about 15 minutes, they're quoting, but realistically saying about 11 to 12 minutes of actual flat time. That's not very much having another two or three batteries on top of that would certainly make your flying die a lot better. Much more important for the Spock. Getting that fly more combo box with nomadic to fly more combos. Exon, you get this fantastic bag. You get the extra batteries which you probably want to buy anyway. You get the charging hub allowing you to charge them all of your batteries simultaneously, which was fantastic. And you get that little plank adapter, which essentially turns your battery into a foreign Jojo or remote control charge or any type of charges. So you can recharge your phone on the go and they recharge your phone extremely fast. It's equivalent in my experience of plugging your phone into a wall. So it's not just your standard USB lucky plug it into a computer and it takes 12 hours to recharge your phone or something. These will charge your phone up in a good hour or two, very quick and very powerful. You can get it out four or so charges out of it as well. So this thing actually does an excellent job reviewing road tripping. Iceland, for example, like weighted goes extremely community. With the fly mow combo. You also get the car charger as well. So you get essentially discharge off. But instead of connecting to the wall, can extrude the cigarette lighter and the car. Again, fantastic for when you're on the road. If you've got three batteries, you can go ahead and fly chuck in, charge it in the car while you're going along stock fly again, if made it absolutely fantastic, the fly more combo for both the Spock and the magic I would highly recommend. And a lot of experts also recommend that mainly for the batteries and the proper bags, because realistically, you can use the bags and the cardboard containers that come in to actually store the drone and carried a random but having a profit bag. That's my, especially for the marriage, which is so small smokes or compact S2, the spark I think is a fantastic quality bags. I probably cost a good 150 or so just on their own. Placed in Australia. Those are the fly more combos and the benefits of them and the differences between the Spock and the metric. As I said, I can't recommend them enough. They are both fantastic. And in our next section we'll start to look at trying to avoid crushing your drawing when you take it out for your first flight. I'll talk to you then. 7. Section 3 - 1 - Spatial Awareness: Welcome to this very special Nick section, which is on hand to avoid damaging or crashing your drawing. In this first section, we'll be talking about spatial awareness. And to begin with, whether you've bought a medic Pro, maybe a phantom full prior, or maybe even the cheapest the DJs spot. You still going to spend a lot of money in the Spark is $500 US. Dramatic, as I said here in Australia cost us almost $2 thousand with the farm or convert. A lot of money. I can understand that you might be a bit nervous that you're typing it up to fly for the first time. You might not fully know what you're doing. Maybe you've never flown remote control helicopters or remote control anything before your drone. This is the first time you flown anything. So it's understandable that you're nervous and you don't want to do anything that might cry my damage or crash the drawing. They goes thousands of dollars. So that's what this section is. Whole section is full. Making sure that you're confident enough that you know about all the potential pitfall. 8. Section 3 - 2 - The Most Common Ways People Crash: Welcome to this next section on the most common ways that people crashed the drone. Over the years. Dji being selling a lot of drawings and the business they've been around for a few years now and over that time that had a lot of people unfortunately crash the drones, cause issues. And what they can do is they can download the logs off the drones and send them into DJI. That can help determine whether or not it was something like a pilot error that caused the crash or whether or not maybe it was something actually in the joint itself and maybe a software glitch or hard way styling or something in which DJI would be responsible for and in which case the warranty deed, my TBA. But as a result, I get the logs from them and they can tell what actually cause that drug to crash. And as a result, wherever the yeas and the many thousands of people that unfortunately crashed a drone benefits you and I because we get a top list of how people most likely crash, they're dry. Now, the number one way people crashing the drone is something called a CAC. Immediate. Csa stands for combination stick command. And I'll be going over this a bit more in basic flying and control of section as well. But for now, CSE is essentially when you have the two sticks and you either in combination, down and inwards or down in words. So either one of those commands can either start your drawings, merges, or stop your driving motors. Now, what it's actually meant for is when you're on the ground and you want to stop the motors so that you can take off manually. You perform that command, starts spinning up the motors and off you go. Unfortunately, what it can do is if you're flying and doing some move and it requires you to fly down and go right to the left or something like that. And for whatever reason you're not thinking. And you do both of those actions at the same time, your drones motives are going to stop dead and it's just gonna fall out of the sky like a giant brick. This is the main cause of most crashes. It can also be from just inexperience, even if you know about it, you can still do it. But if you don't know about it, you can just accidentally do it while playing ramble, something like this. This is why I'm telling you that as I first-time or even as an experience one, this is something you learn how to do it explicitly look out for because it is the number one way that people crushed the drawings. Unfortunately. The second one after a CSE is that the propellers fly need flood. And this one is actually a bit of a tricky one. But I do expect it to get a bit less. Back for the phantom three and previous 123 phantoms as well as a few others. They have the spinning screw on propellers as I was showing you before in the previous sections. So these ones spin on and you have to manually taught in them. You don't want to talk too much because you might damage the motor mechanism. But you don't want to talk. Not tight enough because if you do, they can actually fly off because they're not attached properly. So this can get tricky even more because you might screw it on a field taught to you. You might take off and the drone will take off and hover look perfectly fine. You might even fly up and fly around for a while and everything will be fine. Meanwhile, the propellers are going into relatively low RPM speed, so there's not much of a problem. The view kick it into sports mode or Florida want to do some really fast flowing for whatever reason. Not a problem doing that, but the propeller starts going faster and faster to give you that extra speed boost. And it's at the really high RPM that it just flies off, drawing goes down, goes all your money. There can either be one of two cases. It can be at those high RPMs that the propeller blades fly off. Or it could just be really haven't taught in the morning properly and five minutes after takeoff they fly off or something like that. I don't really see this going forward as being a huge problem. I think it's more of a previous past problem because from the medic onwards, so the maverick, the spot, The Phantom four series, they all have this quick release propeller system as I was showing you before. So they're kind of a binary thing that's clicked in or it's not clicked in. If you start this off and it's not clicked here, It's gonna come flowing or store it away. You're not going to be able to get up to a decently high speed and then have it pop off or even collect that. So hopefully, I think that's one of the reasons why DJI introduced in you quick release. It also is a lot easier for you to put those blades on with a quick release, I think, but it's extra benefit as well that they can hopefully stay apart the number two way that most people have been crashing their drawing. Next up on our list, we have return to home crashes. So what this entails is. I'm delivering a lot more in the app when we go through all the settings of the DJI go-to for app. But essentially, you have this return to home button on the controllers. You also have returned to her and buttons on the app as well. And what that does is, if you're flying around and you need to adorn to come back to you. You can simply, simply press that button and it will return to home. What actually happens when you press that is that the Jordan will guard. This is used for instance, and this is your drawing. The drone will fly up to a certain predetermined hot, the return to harm hot, and then fly back to the home position. You have a hard position, usually gets updated when you take off, the drawing will tell you is I returned to her point, update it. But you can also set it to be the control law. You can also set it to be a physical location on the map. You can do lots of different things that we'll be exploring later on with it. Either way, what can happen is that as it goes up to that predetermined hot, it may not be a high enough point. The Poshmark thing, say for instance 30 meters and usually that might be fine. All the trays that are oropharyngeal area where you fly 15 or 20 meters high so that it always goes up above the trains, comes back and went ends that you'll position nice and sight. What can happen is if you go to a different location with higher trays, cups of building or something like that. It can go up to that same 30 meters and then fly into a tree or into a building or something collected that unbeknownst to you, there goes your drawing again. It can get even worse than that as well because although are older controllers and the app has a return to home button on them, return to homes can be triggered by many different scenarios. Return to home can be triggered by emergencies like if the bacteria is low, can also be triggered by if the controller itself loses signal. So a very common one is that there'll be flying and for whatever reason you might try and fly or random a building or a hill or something that has a lot of radio interference properties inbuilt into it. You know, a lot of debt, a lot of metal or something like that. For whatever reason, the connection between the control law and the drug gets caught after a certain amount of time, that drawings just going down into return to her unmarked, fly out and come back to you might not actually physically trigger that return too high and it can happen automatically. And if you haven't said that returned her hot properly in each location as you go through, then he goes You drug. Now another key point where return to home is activated is if you run out of battery and that's and now the reason why people crashed the drawings quite often. And I'm sure you've seen lots of footage on YouTube or maybe you haven't. People flowing out over rivers or lakes or oceans and all that sorts of things. For whatever reason it, I still can't figure out why they do this, but they keep flying wrought to the very end of the bedroom there in the garden, in the diegetic app. It has a little law in up the top that tells you your battery, how much percentage you've got left. It goes from 100% all the way there to 0. And the 20 or 30% moth is different markings. You can set it in the app. It will tell you that you're about to run out of battery. You've got Thirty-five percent of battery left. And if you don't come back now, you weren't coming off the battery to actually get that current for whatever reason. I don't know why people think that they can ignore this and not crash the drawing by ignore it and keep trying to film away. And then it looks surprised when they join starts to automatically start landing in the middle of a light or something because it's simply just add a battery. It's not going to just fall out of the sky. They don't do that for safety reasons, but it will forcibly stopped to wane. You're drawing and you won't be able to stop it because it's worn out of battery. This is another main reason that people crashed the drawing and that's something that you should never, never put yourself in a position to do. Once it gets to 30% or once it starts telling you to return home. Return home, it is critical that you do it. If you don't. You're drawing my x dot retaining harm and half-life retaining home, runs out of battery, starts to land. You might be over the ocean. You might be able to, like, even if you're a land, it's probably unlikely that it's going to be landing in a suitable location of my land. Try and land on top of the tree or something like that, it's going to do a lot of damage. Worst-case, it's going to damage your drawing. It's more likely going to absolutely destroy Jordan or maybe we'll just even lose it completely. So that's another major reason of why people damage or crash they're drawing, simply just running out of battery and it really shouldn't happen. One other particular thing that can catch people out, even if you're paying attention to that 30, 35%, whatever point it's an active points. So the further you go away, the more bacteria will take up to get back in the earlier, it will warn you. So it is a dynamic thing. It's very intelligent. But this is you in your drawing and you stopped flowing this way. And say for instance, there's a bit of wind during this way. You'll flying away with the wind at your back makes it very easy to fly away. You do, you're flying around over here and it starts beeping a saying, Hey, does Thirty-five percent battery left, you should come home now, otherwise it won't be able to reach your good drone pilot. So you turn around and start flying back the nine-year flying into the wind. And if it's a decent often wind can actually make it a lot harder for the drawing itself to fly back. And what can actually happen is it can actually not quite get all the way back because the wind is going in the opposite direction and it's making it hard for it to fly back. So just be aware of that. The app attention is very smart. As I said, it will dynamically calculate how far away you are, how much battery you need to get back. But it can't tell the wind resistance hammock. It doesn't take that into account. Just be careful of that. I'd recommend probably coming back just a little bit before it starts really beaten yet you, if for nothing else, is really annoying when it beeps at you. But it also means that you are guaranteed that your drawing is safe. Finally, the main reasons that people crash, they're drawing stuff that I've covered before in the previous section, which is things like not having it in visual line of sight. Trying to navigate in the 3D world on a 2D screen. Crash, crashing into small objects like Powell lines, those sorts of things. Another very common one is actually flying backwards. Even on advanced drones like the metric, which actually have forward facing and bottom facing object avoidance. They don't have it on the back. So if you're taking the video while you're flowing backwards and articles on LinkedIn, there's a tray. You're just going to fly back into it and then she goes, Sorry. Do be aware of your surrounding environments. Have a second person width you as well so they can teach you, instead of say hi and stop flying backwards, you're about flying to that tree. It could be thousands of dollars. Sorry. That's the main top sort of Tim Wise that a lot of people over the last fees of crushed the drones. I hope none of those things happen to you. And I heard that by telling you about those things now you'll well-prepared and that you know what to look out for. It's not just a bird that might come in or stop trying to attack your adjourn. It seems that you've got to do two. You've got to make sure that you buy the app when it says for you to come back on battery, come back on dietary, because otherwise it will just fall out with this guy. You've got to make sure you propellers are on strike. You got to make sure you don't do that. Really annoying CFC moving truck you're drawing out of the sky. There are a lot of things that, as I said, this is what it comes back to, the easy to fly. You can push a button and it will take off and fly itself almost literally with some of the automatic modes, but it's a lot of information needed to keep in the back of your head. A lot of things you need to look out for to make sure that you stay safe and that you're drawing stay safe as well. I mean, you've got to look out for birds, have got to watch out for dogs, which are flying into trays, not doing the correct combination, you're back to your disadvantage. Oh, while you're trying to fly around and have fun, get the rod short. These are things you've got to build up to. So to begin with, I would highly suggest, as I said, just getting the basics brought, being in an open environment, the oval is probably the best one to do. Fly up and down, get control of it. So it's second nature so that in those more complicated environments, you're not trying to focus on how to fly it up or down. You've got that down pat. You can look at the surroundings and really be aware of what's happening around you and fly with caution and make sure you didn't crash. In the next section, we'll be looking at flying inside and why that's not a good idea. I'll speak to you then. 9. Section 3 - 3 - Flying Inside: Welcome to this section on flying indoors. So earlier on I explained that you do not want to fly in dollars. I didn't particularly give a reason for it, but that's what I want to explain in full detail. Nail. A lot of people when they first get a drone, I think that flying inside is the psi function that's lying outside is the dangerous option. I think there's high winds this trace to crash into. Maybe they realize that these birds out there as well. Whatever it might be that I think that it's dangerous. And they guy, maybe I'll fly indoors for a little first. Then once I get the hang of it, I'll go outside where it's more dangerous or something, then I understand that sounds like a good idea in theory, but as I said, while these are easy drones to fly, you have to have a lot of background information in your head to make sure that you don't crash it. And this is some of that background information. So please controllers operate at 2.4 gigahertz frequency. It's very common for radiofrequency controls. I'm not sure if you know this or not, but another very common thing that a lot of people have in their houses these days are Wi-Fi routers and phones. They also operate at 2.4 gigahertz. They interfere with these controllers. If you have one or maybe multiple Wi-Fi RAB is in your house which they didn't knew probably do. They will interfere with this remote control. Now it's not going to permanently disable it. But depending on way you'll wrapper reason way you're flying, maybe you're in-between it or something like that or maybe you start flying in-between them. But as we fly around the house, you become in-between it. It's very easy for this control to lose signal or to have that signal they severely disrupted between the drawing and the controller itself. And obviously that's going to cause a lot of problems. The other major concern is that inside it's very difficult to get a GPS lock. Usually some people have no metal roofs, which makes it even more difficult to get unlocked. But even just being inside generally is hard. When a drawing flies, It will typically have anywhere from maybe 1015, maybe up to 20 satellite connected to it unlocked on while it's doing it's flying. And this is what allows it to keep itself stable and not start drifting over like this. Many of the earlier drawings that didn't have as good of connectivity to GPS's, they'd often be nowhere near as stable with something called the maverick or the phantom falls or even the spot, they would sort of slowly start to drift like this, even if you weren't touching the controls. So let's still hauled off by themselves and keep relatively stable. But I kind of drift of the time and you'd have to keep a bit of an island. I'm sorry. What having flying indoors does is it takes me back to that time where you kind of get a good GPS lock or even if you do, you might only get a couple of satellites as opposed to 20 or 15. And it makes it a lot harder to control the drone because not only do you have your controller being interrupted by a Wi-Fi router and you can't tell it to move left or right because it's getting interrupted. But the joint itself can't self stabilize and we'll just start drifting, Drifting tool wall or something and you can't tell it not to. So that's the first, initial dangers of find inside. That's one of the things that makes it very difficult to begin with. There's somebody gave him less than that and that's what happens when you don't actually get a connection with your control or to it, if it is interference between your router and this becomes big enough, it'll disconnect for a certain amount of time and that'll trigger the returned home, the protocols on the drawing itself that remember what I said, return to home takes the drone up to a certain predefined hot, then flies back to the harm location. Now, if you're indoors, I'm pretty sure you will. Ceiling isn't going to be 30 or 50 meters high. Your drawing is going to fly directly up into the ceiling or maybe into a television or something worse like that. There's numerous complaints on websites and things like that where people have gotten a drawer taken out of the box. Never Florida join before. Immediately start flying and inside the drawer and takes off. It can't get any GPS's, any GPS satellites and walked onto it. The Wi-Fi red is interfering with their controller and it stops. Gently drifting, slams into the television, or they're flying and around, maybe they are controlling it. But then it goes until a Wi-Fi hotspot or something like that. Controlling gets wiped out, goes into the return of return to harmonic and starts flying into walls or something like that. Day complying winch to DJI say, Oh, my drawing flowing to the television all by itself. They do diagnostic on the drawings logs. And I can very easily prove that it didn't have any GPS signal and lost connectivity to the remote went into return to harm mode. That's why that's essentially called pilot error. It will not be covered under warranty. In the same day that you got your drawing, you lose thousands of dollars. So this is the whole reason why I just do not fly indoors that always ran it. You can sit the drawing into specific modes so that it doesn't try and search for satellites. And it uses its visual positioning system to actually stabilize a drone. So some of the advanced ones use the bottom placing cameras and ultrasonic to help stabilize and position themselves indoors, rather than using the GPS systems to position them and keep them stable so it is possible to fly in salt. I'm not saying it's not except it's for advanced flying pilots or so. Keep that in mind. This is why I told you don't fly indoors. I'm trying to help you and not destroy your drawing. Taken outside. I know it might seem scary that United is high winds or something like that outside. Outside is actually extremely easy with the DJI drones. They handled the winds very, very well. They will tell you if the winds are too high, caution come back and land. Even then I've found you can almost ignore it. Basically, I can type quite high winds. The bigger the drone you have, the high the winds. You can type the following, something like the spot. Maybe. Just be a little bit more careful with wind and stuff. I'll go over in more detail later on in the third-party app section, which you can look up the wind speed with where you currently are and sort of configure apps to tell you whether you can count fly depending on how high the wind is. But we'll cover that in a later section. So initially, I just wanted to explain why I'm saying dark fly indoors to begin with. Next up, we'll have a specific look at the gimbal on the method. I'll talk to you. 10. Section 3 - 4 - The Gimbal: Now that we've covered flying indoors and how to do that safely, I wanted to get into a special aside for the actual nomadic pro at self's are the Spock and the phantom don't really have, these problems are much. But when it comes to the gimbal, now I explained before, you don't want to have this locking mechanism of a gimbal in when it turns up on. I'll just show you now if I remove it, I'm going to turn the drawing on when it's facing up. So watch the gimbal and how much it moves as the drug and tones on. That's it going through its self diagnostics and checking all its various things? Turn that off. You can imagine having this locking it implies is going to burn out that mode up very quickly and cause a lot of damage. You do not want that in place when you're turning your drone on. That's the first thing and the first specific Assad for the maverick, it also does apply to the phantom. If you have that locking plight in when you turn the journal and it's gonna do the same thing that Kim who's gonna do self-checking Turner random and everything, and it's going to burn out the murders. The second thing is a lot of people on the internet suggests that with this clear gimbal cover, what you do is you take out this, mentioned that. But then I say reattach to this, protects the gimbal. You can fly around with it if that'll bugs or things heated, it protects it. And that's a perfectly reasonable thing to suggest. And I totally understand where they're coming from, but they're actually missing a very important detail, which is how the havoc cools itself. Now, I have to type this off to show you, but hopefully you can see inside there those grills they intake for as the drone flies along like this, air comes in and it goes inside into those grills and cooled all the electronics throughout the body of the maverick. This part here is actually a heat sink. They were a careful sometimes can get quite hot. You're on a reasonably hot dying. You've been flying for awhile. You can actually burn your hand. Did you put your hand under it like that to try and pick it up or something. But having this cover on blocks, all that airflow that's coming in and after a number of minutes, it, you might start getting error codes or fluctuation. That's not going to tell you that the electronics are overheating or it's going to do is to stop erroring and permanently damaging those electronics inside. If you've ever had a computer or the hate, you probably know that it never tells you that it's r, The hating. It just starts crashing and glitching and doing all these other things and you have no idea what's going on when in fact your processor and all the electronics is just melting and frying underneath the hate. Never fly with this gimble on because it blocks the airflow. Sorry, I never turn on your drawing with this implies always get a good routine GYN of undoing them. I usually type of atoms the case. I'll take it out of the case. I'll remove the cover or remove the lock and I'll put them back in the case. Then I'll type this outside and begin my flying rituals. So that's how I ensure that one, I never lose them because I put them in the case. And when I come back to where the joining the case, they're there waiting for me, that I never do either of those things. Sorry. It is a good Siri to have this protecting and I understand where they're coming from but and never fly with it because you will damage your drawing long-term. That's just something I wanted to come up, particularly for the Maverick and also a little bit for the Phantom as well. The spot, you don't have to worry about it, it doesn't have those things. But that ends out this section. And next up, we'll be talking about the remote controls. Finally, I'll talk to you then. 11. Section 4 - 1 - The Mavic Pro Controller: Hey guys, and welcome to this section on controllers. To begin with, I'll be starting off with the mythic pro controller, which is what we've got here. As you know, the transmission distance for this is upwards of seven kilometers, which is fantastic. I think it's really good that they go nice and far because whilst you may not always be flying your drawing out to seven kilometers and especially that's not legal in your area to have an outside of your visual line of SWOT, you definitely shouldn't be flying at seven kilometers. Having that extra powerful transmitter and receiver capability all the way out to seven kilometers makes it Fantastic Four, even if you're at a smaller distance like I, even upwards of a kilometer. And there's lots of interference from Pabst Wi-Fi router as other people flying. There's always interference coming from every which way and direction in today's world. So it's good that I have a nice strong transmit and receive unit. To begin with. You want to extend the bottom ohms, which of these two things here? And if you've got a small phone like one of the smaller iPhones, I like a five-eighths or something. You can keep it nice and small if you've got one of the bigger ones, like say the Galaxy Note, can go all the way out to quite a large distance. I've got a Google Pixel XL is the Excel version. As you can see, there's still plenty of room on either side of that as well. So it does expand out quite far and pretty much accommodates almost every phone that's out there. Doesn't do tablets, unfortunately, you can't get third-party accessories that do it and it's not covered here at the moment. Next up, you have the actual antennas and that's what these things are here. Be gentle with them. These are quite stiff and you can be quite harsh within the antennas. Just be careful with them. They are strong but like hand snap off relatively easily if they get caught on something. Now, one note is that as dictated by DJI themselves, as I'll show in this diagram here. You want to have the antenna straight and not crossed. Never do it like this that will interfere with each other. It's not what you want. It'll give you a crap signal. Have them nice and straight like this. And try and have an angled a bit as well. The angle down and upwards, depending on how high your drawing is, the higher it is, you want to try and face your controller up to the drone term. It's not some high in the air directly and bond view, even holding it up like this will give you better signal. As a drone comes down more in front of you, you can push it down and basically just aim the two antenna at your drone for best signal. Now, the controller itself connects up to you if iron via the USB port here, which travels around the back and plugs in there. And this, this will actually charge your phone while you're using the controller, which is fantastic. It doesn't charge it fully. It is unlike charges are fully via the USB port. But because flying the drawing and having the screen on broad and sending all the data and displaying the video and all that takes up so much battery, at least on my phone and a few other phones I've tried. It won't increase the charge on your phone, but it won't die as quickly. If you start with 80% and you fly around for a bit, say 20 minutes or something like it might go down to maybe 70% or something like that. If it's not plugged in and it's not charging, it would've gone down to maybe like 50 or 40% of thing. So it doesn't, you're not going to put it on it 80% fly around for a while and come back on a 100% better, basically makes your phone last a lot longer. And inside here, it's got a 2970 milliamp hour battery inside, and that's what he uses to parents often charge. And that's about the same size as large phone app at the moment. As I said, it charges via this RCA cable, which is this cable here. You can see that it slides back and forth to help you position it. Sort of snakes in under here, Todd to sort of see, you can see the cable there. And then finally into this micro USB port here on the side. Now, this cable here, it comes with the magic probe. And there's also two other cables. This one's the USB type C and C the *****. It also comes with a lightning adapter for iPhones and also a micro USB for other older Android phones that don't have the new USB-C standard on them. So that comes with the iPhone one installed by default. So I had to actually remove it and thread it out. Just sort of push from here and it will pop out there. It's quite fiddly to sort of put it back in and get it all set up and whatnot. But it's something that you only have to do once, unless for some reason you're switching between iPhone and Android phones constantly, it might get a bit annoying to do at once because, well, I've had my phone, I haven't changed it. That's the RCA cable. The best way to insert and remove a phone without damaging it. So to do this, I'll use my Google Excel. As I said, the best way that I've found is to position it. You want to make sure first of all, this cable, sometimes it can lean in woods like that. And if you try and insert your phone in, obviously it's not going to go in properly. So you want to, from the back to sort of make sure it's positioned nicely in the middle sort of thing. And I found the best way is to actually count. Put your phone in like that sort of easily in from that side first. So I'll try and demonstrate on train, line it up and you just sort of push it in. Like so that's now locked into the USB-C down the bottom there. You also want to beforehand make these as wide as possible. Once it's locked into USB C section. Brilliant round than just squeezed together, line it up so it's nice and stable. You don't have to worry about these points here, doing damage to your phone. I've used, as I said, on a number of phones and I've never seen any damage to be a bit careful with it. Obviously, it is your phone or probably cost you a decent amount of money as well, but that's how you insert the phone without damaging it. So it's connected via USB directly to the remote control. And from there it'll communicate and through the video link, you'll be able to control and all that sort of address. That's how you put the phone in to take it out. It's just a simple simple matter of reversing. So first, you pull this part out as wide as possible, then as I said, I sort of just basically pull it out like that. Generally don't want to force it. Otherwise, you might do damage to the USB port either on the bottom of your phone or to the cable itself. The cable itself isn't a huge deal. It can be replaced quite cheaply and you can buy them from the DJI website. But obviously, if you can avoid it, it's probably a good thing. Now that we've gone out to put your phone in an F want to go through all these buttons and everything that's actually on the controller itself. To begin with. We have the power album, obviously up top here. If you press it once, it'll tell you the battery percentage, this is about half-full. Over here, you have the return to home button. So when you press that it will activate the return to home function. Obviously, in the middle here you have your two joysticks. Now, these actually have a few different modes. So the first mode is mode one, and that's where the left stick serves as the throttle. That would be this one here. So that means that will push it forward, that will push it back. Mode two, you have the right stick serving as the total. So that's this one over here. So forward and back. Now, mode two is the default, and I would probably recommend sticking with it for me when I started using it. It was the natural thing like I have flowing out of the stuff before. But at that same today, want most people use as well. Judging from videos on YouTube, you're seeing on the pilots fly, most people use mode two, so you're going to be willing to fly their drawings or their airplanes. They're probably going to be doing it in mode two as well. So I'd recommend just keeping it at the default. The other final mode is mode three, and that's again with a lift stick serving as the throttles forward and backwards. However, other parts are being changed. You can have a look in the manual or online to see exactly what the difference between the three modes are. It also shows you in the DJI app, which we'll cover later. But for now I just recommend sticking with mode two. After that, we have the flight pause button, which is this bottom. What this does is anytime throughout any of your flight, you can press this button and it will stop any of the automatic modes that are happening. So this includes the return to home mode. So if you're returning to the homeland and you just want to stop at for whatever reason you can just hit that. If you're in any of the intelligent flying meds, you can also press that perhaps it's doing active track and United States, it's about to crash into a tray or something that will fly backwards into something, you can just hit that stop instantly. There's also an buttons on the actual app that you can do. You can also hold down the throttle button for a number of seconds and that'll cancel as well. But that's by far the easiest button to press to just cancel any automatic flight mode, whether the drawing is flowing itself. Over to the right. We have the five-day button. Now, the five-day button is actually quite handy. It's configurable. And by default, that's kind of like a joystick in itself. You can push it up, you can push it down, left, right. You can also press the button as well. The joysticks can't press, but you can do whatever. This is. Configurable, configurable button that you can configure five separate things. By default, so going left is zooming in. Zooming out, up is putting the gimbal forward and down is putting the Qin Bu down. Pressing the actual button will bring up the intelligent flat menu, which will let you choose your Active Track and all those sorts of things. Now going up to the top, I'll just close these here, make it easier. Up to the top, we have the camera settings dial. So this one, c is over here, the camera settings doll. And this one can control things like ISO or shutter speed. So if you're flying around, you just want to crank up the ASO a bit. You can also configurable in the app as well. On the other side you have the other jog wheel, which is for the gimbal. This one doesn't infinitely rotate as well. We slide up or down, but that will take the gimbal up or dance this ones. You'll find that you'll be using this one quite a fair bit. The arm, we have the camera button and the video record button, so they're pretty obvious ones. Start, Stop Record. Take a photo, all those sorts of things. And on the side here you'll see there is a Sports Mode button. Now, this one goes into two separate modes. There's a P mode for positioning. And what that is is the standard normal mode that the drawing will come in. By default. It uses the GPS and the VPS. Vps is the visual positioning systems. So those are the cameras that are underneath the drawing. And it uses those to stabilize. It also uses it to do the intelligent flight mode. All those sorts of things are available as per normal in P mode, the positioning mode. If you click the switch over, you can put it into S mode or sport mode. Obviously, sports mode will make it go faster, it becomes more agile. The top speed is increased rod up towards full 65 kilometers an hour or 40 miles an hour. And I must say, it's a lot of fun to fly them havoc in sports mode. I tried it out recently and just the agility and speed and quickness of it. It is absolutely fantastic, but I would highly recommend waiting at least a couple of weeks to get you used to actually flying the drawing first before you sort of kick it up into flat, into sports mode and all those sorts of things. So another thing to note about the sports mode is that by default, when you purchase your drone, even if you clicking towards stride awhile, sorry, click into it straightaway to go into sports mode, it won't actually work. You have to go into the settings of the DJI app and actually enable multiple flight mode before it will actually work. So I'll show you a bit more in the DJI at section, but you essentially go into Settings aircraft, and then enable them multiple flight modes. Once you've done that, then you can come back and actually toggle the switch here. If you just try and toggle it straight out of the box, it won't do anything. So I don't think it's not working. It's just an extra bit of safety that they have nothing on. We have the C1 and C2 buttons. On the C1 and C2 buttons, you've got this one here, which for me is the left side. So this side here. For this one, the default setting for it is to actually focus on the center area of the screen. However, you can configure out both of these as well. So there's even more configurable buttons. The C2 button, or on the right-hand side is the playback or delete of white points. You may not use that too often. This one you might use quite a fair bit. The final ones is you'll notice this bottom USB port. Now there's the other USB port over here, That's the micro USB. This is a full type, a USB thing. Note, this is a big one to remember. If you have this plugged in and you also plug-in your device to this so you can plug in a full USB size things. So you're putting your tablet or something like that. If you plug it into there, make sure this port is unplugged and taken out because otherwise it won't work. That's just a note to anyone who's wanting to use a tablet or wanting to connect the device by there, make sure this port isn't plugged in. Otherwise you're going to have troubles. That we've covered all the knobs and dials and buttons all over the place. We can turn it on. Pressing once on the power button, as I said before, will give you the percentage power. What you want to do to actually turn it on just like the drone and just like everything else out there you want to press, press and hold. And it will boot up and automatically start trying to connect to a drone in the body. Now obviously, that's not gonna work because there aren't any drones that are on Nearpod. And what we're gonna do now is go through all these onscreen. Due to ads and things that will be popping up if it was to actually connect up on the screen here you've got your list of all the screen information and all the little bits and pieces. So as you can see on your screen now, this is what your LCD for the big pro controller would look like. In the very center, you ignore your system status prompt, which is telling you you're ready to go or whatever status of your drawing is. Over to the right, we have your flight mode, is usually GPS if you're flying outside. It will also give you your GPS signal strength. That flight mode can change to different things like in the sports mode or ITI mode or any of those other ones. Moving idea, I've got the aircraft battery level, which is quite critical to know if you don't have the phone with the DJI app on it, so you can fly with just the remote controller on its own, with the remote control at and your phone LinkedIn to it. And you can even fly them havoc with just you foreign as well and Wi-Fi mode. But I'd recommend using the controller. Otherwise, having that aircraft battery level in there is quite critical. Just as critical is the RC signal strength over to the right there. Then on either side you've got your flight speed and motor rotation speed. This is Just a bit of handy information and you can have, I personally never really looked at it. The speed can be nice sometimes, but most of the time I'm focusing on the actual phone itself. Other information going down is the microSD card, the sports mode, whether that's activated or not, you've got your flight distance, how far away your drone has flown from you. And then you've got your exposure compensation, which he may or may not may or may not know what that's about. Unless you do photography. Continue on. You've got whether or not you're ascending or descending your flight altitude as well as your camera status According or you're taking a photo. And you've also got your vision systems status and distance to the gray on the distance of the ground and the flight altitude are a bit different, but they displayed both from there, which is always handy. Finally, you have the remote controls battery level itself. So all those bits of information you can look down at anytime and say, which is very handy, especially if you're not actually flying with your phone. If you're just flying with the controller itself. I have had in the past a few times the DJI GO app crash a few times. And as such, it's very handy to essentially have the control of the independent of the app. And you still have a lot of the information there, like how much battery you have and all that sort of stuff. So it's very handy to have that information at all times. One of the final pieces of information that you need to know about the controller is how to actually charge. Move this out of the way. I bet you saw you're charging block before. This is what you use to charge your battery. With the MacBook Pro, you can also charge your control all at the same time, as well as your phone if you want as well, or two controllers on two phones. Whatever your pleasure, not based on obviously this will plug into the wall. You get your USB cable that came with it. Get barely over y. And then this top port up here, the one that connects your phone to the controller is just plug it in. And of course it's USB, say you have to turn it around. And also we'll plug that in. The controller itself takes up to two hours to charge. It can take a decent amount of time, but you're going to probably be charging the battery at the same time as wealth. It's not too much of an issue. That's how you charge the controller. Make sure you put that back in afterwards. Now, out of the box, the actual controller itself will come linked to your nomadic Pro. So you should never really have to manually unlink them that perhaps you damage your controller or maybe you get a second control automatic connection will be flowing with two controllers, can have a primary and a secondary control. That way you can have one person flying, one person controlling the camera work and a lot. So the staff side, maverick is quite professional as the prior name in it sounds. But either way, if you ever need to link the control out to your drone, you will need to go through a few steps. The first step is to start off the drawing startup, the controller, and you also need to start off the DJI, go for app as well. So you need all three of them connected and started up. You enter the camera visa, the main go fly view of the app, which I'll show you in a next section, but go detail more in the next section. But you can see here on the screen what I'm talking about. So you go into the main camera view and you tap on the button up the top, and then go to linking primary RC. Once you've done that, the actual ASI will be linking, you need to go to the drone. Then in that little slot that I showed you before where the microSD card is, there's a little tiny Link button on their sides, very small. You'll probably have to get a pin or something to push the button on it. That will put the drone itself in linking mode. You're gonna few LED is flashing, eventually it will go solid green. The little LED That's also next to the microSD card in that little tiny spot, that will go green and the OSI, and the drawing will then be linked. Once again. That's the full mark per remote controller overview. Hopefully now you know everything there is about it and all the little details, everything like that. What all the buttons do, as I said, has got quite a lot of customizability. You can customize these buttons. You can customize that button. You can customize this little five-day button here on numerous different things. It's an excellent controller that's very, very solid. Charges your phone, it's got a nice screen that's very easy to see in daylight. It's all around. Just a fantastic controller I think, and I haven't had a single issue with it at all for the entire time that I've been using it. So they've done a fantastic job. Good work. Dji. Next we'll move onto the Spock controller, which is very similar but has a number of critical differences. I'll talk to you then. 12. Section 4 - 2 - The Spark Controller: Welcome back to the second part, which is covering the Spock controller. Now, I'll be demonstrating with a maverick. You begin the motor control our game, but also do some overlays to point out the differences. To begin with, the very first that a lot of people ask is that you cannot use the maverick per remote to control the spark. And you can't do the opposite and have the Spock control, control the maverick, they are not compatible, you cannot do that. So don't think that you can and go out buying stuff thinking that you can. Another major point is that to get the medevac, sorry to get the spark controller, you have to purchase it separately. It doesn't come in the bulks locked the medic per control it does. It must be purchased separately. And I would highly recommend that as I said, it, because it does increase that transmission distance all the way up to two kilometers, which is pretty **** important. Not as far as the seven kilometers that the maverick pro controller does, but took long it as is quite good. And as I said, you're probably not gonna be flying at too much further than maybe one kilometer, maybe two depending on how good your eyesight is, especially with a spark being so small, I, it don't think too many people will be able to see it very clearly. Post about 1.5 kilometers or so. Kilometers is quite good. As I said, most countries have visual line of sight as a legal requirement for flying your drone. The controller itself is very similar to the medic per controller, there are a few key differences. One of the first ones and the main one is that there's no LCD screen like he on the havoc one. Now, they do have a couple of buttons, sorry, a couple of LEDs in the place of it. I have four on the right-hand side which gives you your battery level. It also indicates when you turn it on and off. And they have another one on the left-hand side for your Wi-Fi connection. And when it's red, that'll mean you have no Wi-Fi connection or when it's greater, means you do have a Wi-Fi connection, so pretty, pretty good. The other main difference is that on the Spock control off, it doesn't have both dials up the top here it only has this gimbal control dial on the left, there is no ISO or shutter speed control ability with through a doll. You can certainly do it through the application on the phone, but you can't do it, it just quickly with a physical button like you can on nomadic. There's also fewer customizable buttons. There's no 5D pad. And although you do have to customizable buttons, one of them is into place at the dial up here. And in place of the five-day button here. You do still have to customizable buttons. However, the maverick pro controller has a lot more of them with the five-day button, the other two, the drug dog. It's just a favorite, more customizable. The other major thing is that the sports toggle has been moved to the center area. And also there is quite critically no USB port on the side. So you may not notice that straight off the gate, but there is no USB port on the side. Instead, in order to connect to your phone, it connects via Wi-Fi. You can also still connect via USB if you need to. That's done on the bottom port, which is a marker USB. You'll see here that the map is full sized, taught by the one on the spock is a marker USP. So that's again, another small difference. Once again, if you purchase the fly more combo with DJI, the controller itself will go Come linked to the drone so you don't have to worry about this. But if for some reason you perhaps it gets damaged and you get a replacement, maybe you borrow the drawing to start off with. And then later on you decide you want the controller so you purchase it separately. Whatever might happen, you may need to actually pair it manually. So to do this, the first thing similar to the medic you power on the drone and the remote control. Once you've done that, you hold down the power button for three seconds on the actual drone itself. So the back power button on the drawing you press and hold for three seconds. The front LEDs will start blinking red indicating that it's in link mode. Third, you press and hold the flight pause button, the function button, and the customizable button all at the same time on the remote control. A bit of a weird combination. I think that's the point. So no one never accidentally presses them all at the same time, pressing all at the same time. And lastly, the lats will flash red, then start blinking green, and then hopefully it goes solid green, indicating that the remote control and the drone have finally paired. So that's how you actually pay your remote control. If for whatever reason it becomes unpaired or whatever, hopefully you shouldn't have to do that. I should just compared with the Jerne, if you buy the fly more combo. Moving on, we have the USB port on the bottom. As I said, it is a full type a, not a micro USB. This is used to actually charge the remote control are, but you can actually also plug your phone into it. I'd probably recommend this because there's been reports that connecting to the controller via Wi-Fi causes glitches and stuff. Perhaps deja, I will update this with a firmware update or something like that. But from my expertise in telecommunications and signal interference by not too sure how much they can sort of do. Because as I said before, these controllers, they transmit at 2.4 gigahertz, and that's the exact same frequency that Wi-Fi goes out. So what they've essentially done is put a phone broadcasting on 2.4 gigahertz, right next to the controller that's trying to transmit and receive also a 2.4 gigahertz. I'm not sure why, but they've essentially forced you to put a the phone that's interfering with your radio signal right next to your remote control. Or it doesn't seem like the smartest thing to me. Perhaps they really wanted to save on spending money on a cable or something like that. But whatever the reason I did it and there's been reports that it's been causing some glitches and some sort of disconnect issues in the last set of staff are highly recommend. Buying a cable. Cable does not come with the Spock ADP by the fly. More cumbersome. You need to buy a separate little, basically this cable and little USB cable. So USB-A to lightning, USB-C, whatever it is that you have on your phone. And again, the other benefit of doing it as if you have that cable, not only will you get a more solid connection to your remote control, but you also have your phone be charged as well. So I think the physical cable is a far better solution. And then connecting over Wi-Fi, if your phones blasting out Wi-Fi has the screen on full brightness is churning through lots of calculations with the DJI app because it is quite processor-intensive. That's going to kill your phone battery pretty, pretty effective way. Hooking it up via cable just means that it doesn't need to broadcast that Wi-Fi, which also doesn't interfere with your remote control up pluses getting a charge. I think it's just all around better hooking it up via USB, sir. That's what I'd recommend to do. And that's pretty much the only difference between the spark and the medic pro controller's. Everything else that I explained before with the maverick control are still Applause. Well, the same joysticks and saying pause buttons, return to home. You've got the record and take photo button, the same thing with the antennas and positioning placement for it sort of stuff. Exact same placement of the phone, plugging it in, that sort of stuff. Or identical, just that moved around a couple of different volumes and removed the screen. So that's the spark control. Next up, I'm going to have a chat about the phantom controllers. So I will talk to you. 13. Section 4 - 3 - The Phantom Controller: Going and welcome to the final section on controllers, which is the phantom that series controllers. So here you can see a phantom series three control. I'm also show photos of the phantom for pro controller and the Phantom four per plus controller. The main difference between those two is that the phantom for PRO, that GO 300 comes with no screen. So it's similar to this. You get a little holder for your mobile DevOps. Whereas the phantom for PR plus or the jail 300 series control actually has a built-in screen, so it actually has a built-in DJI. My Android powered DeVos that they run the DJI go for app on. Very difficult to say. That's the differences between the two fandom for remotes. Other than that, it looks very, very similar to this, almost identical. The phantom for Pro Remote also uses the 5.8 gigahertz band to help avoid that interference. Lot of speaking all of them in the 2.4 gigahertz section. So it uses both 2.4 gigahertz and 5.8 gigahertz. With the bigger amount, you can also use either a phone or a tablet. Sorry, here, you can either put a phone up in portrait mode. You can have it in landscape mode or demonstrate that in a bit lighter. You can also extend this part out a little bit and actually put a full size tablet in there. So that's one of the main differences between the bigger size remote and the small maverick remark. As I said, the magic and spark remote, you can technically fit a tablet with them. You need a special accessory for it doesn't come with it with this straightened out of the box. You can use a tablet. And a lot of people enjoy using a tablet because you can not only see a lot more detail and what you're filming and what you're actually doing. But all the controls, because there are quite a lot of controls on the DJI go for app. All those controls, a better space doubt It's not as clotted and crammed into a tiny screen, even with the bigger phones these days, it's still relatively crammed, but not too bad. I haven't had too much of a problem with it, but I do understand, especially if you have some troubles with eyesight, you might want the biggest screen and you know, the biggest screens row-wise better just in general. So now that we've gone through the differences, I just wanted to go through the actual controller itself. So once again, you've got your power button, which is heel. You can press it and it'll give you your power status down. He is roughly three-quarters full. You've also got a status icon for the actual remote itself. And that can give you certain different statuses like red or solid red or error cards, that sort of thing. On the right-hand side, you've got the return to home button here. So that's exactly the same as on the Maverick and Spock, you press it. Drawing comes back to you. Again. You've got the controllers, you've got the different modes. Exactly the same as the Spock and the DJI maverick pros are. It's actually a very good all three remote are different, but essentially the sign, they've all got their quirks and whatnot are different use cases, as I said before, but generally, if you find a magic, you can pick up a phantom. If you find a phantom, you can pick up a spock remark and it's pretty much just plugging apply. The oldest isn't assuming they're on the same mode as well, you shouldn't have any trouble with either. You'll know where their record and applied by either. Take a photo button is the same with the dolls and all that stuff. They are slightly different, which I'll cover in a second. But it just wanted decided that it's very good that they're very consistent with the controls throughout all the different lineups of drawing. Even though the Spark is a very different drawing to the phantom series. If an item is huge, as for film professionals, the spock is small and for drawing selfies or just people having fun down or beige or something like, like not. The control was a role. Very similar sets. Always nice to have. You've got the power button, the return to home button as well. Pushing once as I said, we'll show your battery level if you want to actually turn it on, it's the same deal. You press want and then press and hold on. It comes as I said, you got the status here. It's going to stay red because it's knowing drone to connect to her. But if there was it returned green, turning it off is exactly the same as everything else and press and hold turns off nice and simple. Left and rot stick. Again, it depends which mode you put it in. You got mode 123 with two being the default. Up the top, you have the same configurable scroll wheel as you do with the medevac pro control. And on the left-hand side you've got the gimbal control, just the same as the havoc and the spot control. Now this will be a little bit different to the Phantom four. This is one of the few differences between the three series control and the full series control. As I said before, I'm trying to demonstrate as many different combinations as possible. So if you have the full remote, this fall series remote, this would be a bit different, but the people that have the three series remote, I can also see what the difference is. The three series remote. You have a p and a and an F switch up here. Whereas with the actual phantom series for remote control is you actually have a P, S, an a on the top there. The pay mode is the same in both of them. Again, that's the positioning mode and standard mind that will come with your drawing and what you can just use. And I move the object avoidance. It uses both GPS and the Visual Positioning System that VPS to steady the drawing and make sure that that's all happy and doing its thing. Next up we have the switch. Now this is a little bit different between the phantom three and phantom for the phantom three series will notice it's got the F, which stands for function mode with the Phantom four and actually has the sports mode. So I've explained what sports mode is before. It takes out object avoidance. It makes a drawing more agile and quick off. That's not for beginners use, it's for professional and people who, well understanding of the drawing and know what to expect sort of thing, the mode is actually stolen, both of them and that's for the ITT I am mode. This is good for flying indoors because it actually doesn't use the GPS or the VPS that only uses the barometer inside the drone to steady itself. I'm not sure why you would really want to use this outside of perhaps flying in doors. But you can always say, imagine if it doesn't have GPS and doesn't have VPS is gonna be a lot less steady to try and fly. You're gonna get lots of drifting and all that sort of stuff. So probably not that good to actually use out the kth mode or smart, but there are the other options for you. The other main difference between the phantom three series and the Phantom four series remote is up here. You'll notice that the pause button actually has a play symbol on it, but it does do the same thing. Up top here you've got the take a photo camera shutter button and you'll recording button obviously. You've also got the C1 and C2 buttons on the back. Again, configurable, configurable controllers. You've got a nice little handle to not only rested Dan Lok, sorry, but also if you want to pick it up, It's very solid spot to think it out from. I'd suggest handling it from either there or from the side. The main body of the actual controller to get the best results. Now, on the back, you've gotten the actual full size USB port and the marker USB port. This full-size one is where you will plug your phone or your tablet into. That just comes around here and plugs into the solid of your DevOps. This other point here is for firmware updates or getting logs, those sorts of things. On the side here you have the PowerPoint now it usually comes with a little in our silicon cover that goes over it. They careful they do come off. As you can see here. What this is is for recharging the controller. As I said, you will have your here, you will have your power brick, and it's simple. Plug-in power. Good. I didn't have a bit big battery inside and I do take a little bit longer than say the maverick or the Spock controls. Finally, we have the main section or PSR up here. We have the foreign hold on there. If you want to put your phone in on a landscape position, you will need to use these sections here so they're little fate that eventually go down. It will push this side thing here so it extends all the way up. You'll also want to be careful of buttons hitting things. So I'm just going to put this room OK that it sits in there and then you just pushed down until it's nice and secure. If you've got iPad or something like that, you can extend it all the way out. Flip the title tablet on its side. Heart flight, it will fit in there. You can also obviously have your phone upright, like Sorry, That's how the farm sits in there and it sits in there very solid and quite easy to use. This also folds down heel and out of the wire when you're storing it, again with the antennas. Be very gentle with them. Same position for optimum. Use is nice and straight. Don't cross them over. One of the main difference between the phantom series 34 is this little piece here. They've changed to the metal in the phantom for series. Once again, plugging in your phone to the USB port while you're using it will charge your phone while you're flying. And it's just generally again, an Orion fantastic remote. You can easily control, easily change Gimbels, record, play, pause, all those sorts of things. It's just again, a fantastic controller that I've never had any issues with whatsoever. So finally, if you ever need to link the control off to the actual drone, need to go through a couple of steps. Again, it'll come linked out of the box so you shouldn't hopefully not have to do this, but if anything happens, maybe it gets replaced. Maybe you want to link up a second one. This is how you link the control out to the drug. So first of all, you need to turn everything on the control off, put the DJI app connected to it, turn it on. Turn on the actual drone itself. No connected. Once you've gotten that, select the Gulf lie and tap on the remote icon as I'm showing you here in the app. And then go to linking ACI button, which is down below there. Now once you've done that, the remote control should be in linking mode. Again, just like the maverick need, the micro SD card will be a very tiny Link button. They will need to press probably with a pin. And once you've done that, the link LED will go solid green and the RC will be linked to the drawing itself. Hopefully now you know everything about all three remotes and you're all up to speed. And we can now get into the really technical staff, which is the DJI app. I'll talk to you then. See you there. 14. Section 5 - 1 - Setting Up The DJI App: Welcome to this section which is all about the DJI Go application. To begin with, your first, obviously have to download and install the application so that you can actually use it. And that's what this section is all about, setting up the DJI app. Now before you go badly download and install the application and go through all that, I do want to note that there are actually two different versions of the application. So what you can see here on the screen is the very first application that DJI originally released, which is DJI. You can see it here on the Google Play Store. And you'll notice that it's now been changed to four products before Phantom four series. This is actually for all the devices that have before the Phantom four, sorry, these are things like the phantom 123 series drones, the Inspire one series drawings, and just basically all the dreams that they've had before that. Now there are two versions. The more current and up-to-date version that you'll want to download is the DJI go for app, which you can see here. Andy's for drones. Since the phantom for this is for drones like the Phantom four series, the DJI Knaflic Pro. And of course the DJI spark, which is just being released. If you have any of those three drones, please get this DJI go for application and make sure that you have the right one for your drone. Now, to start with, you'll want to obviously download it. And just to be extra careful. The guard for app is about a 140 meg on the Play Store currently and on the iTunes Store it's even bigger. It's either 400 meg as you can see here. So I would definitely suggest obviously going onto water and downloading that, not doing it. Ideal telephone data connection, that's probably not a good idea. But once you have downloaded and installed it, you will need to agree to the terms and conditions. I'm sure that'll be a hoot to read through. And then you'll actually need to create an account with DJI.com. Sorry. You can either create an account on the phone itself. You can actually sign up on the website. So if you go to just the DJI go home site, you'll notice up here, there's a little man in the corner. You can just click on Register like this. And it'll take you through to a register page where you can fill in your day tiles, cream account, lots of stuff with a full-size computer and cable, a massive you didn't like talking at all in on your phone. And then you can login on your phone that way. Or you can just simply create an account on your phone as PER what's showing here on this little screenshot. Once you've downloaded and installed and agreed to the terms and conditions and created your account and signed in. You will be graded with the home screen of the application, which is what you will see most times when you actually logging into the device, login to your drawing and do all that sort of stuff. So this is what you'll say by default, and this will change to a blue that will enter device down the bottom right-hand corner, which is underlined with black, will change to blue once your drawing is actually connected and you'll be able to enter the device and stop flying it. And we'll cover that in later sections about all the different settings and details and parts of this application, because there are a lot of parts to begin with. It's just setting up and installing the application. The final piece that I just wanted to note is that on Android, when you actually plug in the USB cable from the remote controller to your phone, when you connect the two together, it will ask you if you'd like to auto launch the DJI go up each time so you'll get a pop-up that looks like this, where you've got your DJI go for application and it's asking me to use by default for this USB accessories. So you want to take this like it's showing here on the screen and press okay. That means that every time you plug-in your device to your remote controller and turn it alone, it will just automatically launch the application. It's one less thing you have to do That's very handy. Unfortunately, it only works on Android for now. They may bring it to iPhone later on, but it's been quite a while and it still is in here. That's the DJI go for application. As you use it over the years, you'll probably notice that it's not the most stable application in the world and is a very, very good application, but it does tend to glitch or hanging sometimes and even crash mid flight. I don't have it doing that hugely often. In my experience, it greatly helps you to have a nice, powerful new device. It is very resource intensive, displaying the video, doing all the calculations, sending, receiving all the data over the remote control and interfacing and all that sort of stuff. That's that's quite taxing on the Vasa. If you have a two or three or even older, year-old ION device, that's probably not going to work too well. You'll probably get it crashing more often or that sort of stuff. Also for the Android application, it does have specified phones which are compatible and other ones which as compatible. The main ones that people seem to have best luck with. The Samsung Galaxy series, ones like the SA node and the SA plus or seven or S9, also support the Nexus series phones like the Nexus six pay or the Google Pixel series of phones as well. All those ones are very well-supported by DJI. There are a number of other ones as well By have devices listed on their website. But just in general, makes sure that you check your phone and whether or not it's fully compatible with the application. Because otherwise you might see a bit of instability in the, so obviously the iPhones are all supported because there's just iPhones. But as I said, you do want to make sure that it's a good new high powered device, if possible, to handle all the complex calculations that get done whilst the app is running. Also tablets are compatible as well. As I said, especially with the phantom series, people locked to have the big screens and the tablets and all that sort of stuff. So things like the Apple iPad to the Samsung Galaxy Tabs, well-supported with the application. Outside of those, it's a bit of hipness. Do try the application. It hopefully should work fine. But also there are no problems that's installing and setting up the app and everything you need to know in regards to that. We'll move on to the next section, which is the actual application itself. I'll talk to you then. 15. Section 5 - 2 - DJI App Overview - Downgraded For SkillShare: Welcome to this second part of this section, which is all about the DJI app. Now, to break this down a little further, because it is reasonably complicated that age up. I'm going to split this one section into two different parts. The first part will be about the application that you can see. The application has many tabs down the bottom here. And we'll be covering those as well as the hamburger icon up in the top right-hand corner here. And that's just the general settings for the application and the few different things that you can do in the application. Second part of it will be a bit more complicated part, which is what happens when you actually connect to your drawing and click on that growth file into DeVos button down the bottom there. That's where you actually go and control the drawing and actually go and fly the drawing. Won't be doing that in the second part for now, let's just go through the general app. If you haven't looked at the application here. First go to the hamburger icon at the top and you can see that there's a scan QR code. This section is for scanning the QR code, which is on your drawing. So you can quickly are the activate or connect to it. So that's what that section is for. Next up, we have the Academy, which is a fantastic section. You've got lots of different video tutorials. You've got flop tutorials, video don't the actual user manuals. Now, depending on which one you've selected, it'll automatically select the drawing that you have if it's actually connected. But if you want to browse other ones. So you've got mural considering borrowing the spark, you just have a look at all the videos for the Spark. These come direct from DJI and the very good videos, but they are somewhat limiting. And what they actually showed that there's still very good to have. And of course you've got the user manuals there. Volts. I got the similar item, which is excellent. However, as you can see here, that's filed to enter the flight simulator because the drum isn't connected. Now it's a bit strange why DJI of done this. But essentially, in order to use a simulator, you have to turn on your Drawing connected to the remote control or your thorn and have it on sitting idly by. While you actually use the cingulate. Seems a bit counterintuitive to me and probably to you as well. There's no good reason the DJI, I've given this. Some people think that it's to verify that you are a DJI customer, that you have purchased a drawing and they can see it connected. Some things don't really make sense, but here it is what it is. Sorry. Make sure you do have your drawing connected if you want to use the simulator. Next up we have the flat record, which shows you all your experience points and the turtle flying time you'll footprints and this is where you flown which countries you flowing in. Things like your tops bay, top altitude, all those bits of fun information that he can record. These are automatically recorded as you do each of your trips. And as you do over time, you can grab this little thing down here and pull up and see all the flight data that you've recorded over time. So this is the flats that you've typed in since you've started flying under that account. That's a handy thing you can have. It also has some settings and you can even sync it to DJ's service up there. Next up, we have the store, which is just obviously with DJI store. You can go there, you can buy some of the goggles or do whatever you please. After that, you've got the fine. My drawing there, this farm, my drawing section is for if you actually lose your drawing, maybe at landed somewhere and you know what exactly sure where it landed. The drawing is on and connected to your remote controller and within range, it'll track his GPS location and relay that back to you and you can it narrow and hopefully retrieve your loss droids and that's what that section is full. Then finally, we've got the flight restriction information section, which is a geo zone map, sorry, argument strategy. So obviously it's selected Australia or medically. Then we can scroll down and get a general idea of older no fly zones are the possible warnings arms that they might be in Australia. So for example, if we just zoom in on a bit of a random location here you can see the live near the husband International Airport. That's obviously no flaws. Scroll down and it will tell you what all the restricted zones are, the authorization zones, explaining to you what each of them are. It's a fantastic little resource that perhaps you're going to Europe and USA, maybe going to Germany or something like that. And you want to know, will you be able to fly your drone if you take it with you? So you can look at this application and get a bit of a quick ID on whether or not you might be able to fly there and I'll be covering it in a lot more data in the next chapter. That's on safety and what you're able to do with your specific country. So stay tuned for that. But this is a good set of prep course for what you can actually do. That's all the information in the hamburger icon up in the corner there. And also an idea you can select which does divorce. You have. Again, if you've got your device connected, it will automatically choose it for you. But you can have a bit of fun with it and save it. Maybe you want to aspire to and you can have a look what look like to have one of those huge drawings at your disposal site can have a bit of fun without moving over to the editor. You've got your albums and your creates sections. So your albums are where you can see all your photos and videos that you've taken from your drone when you actually fly it up and take photos and videos that's stored on the micro SD card on the drawing in full detail. It'll also strings back that video and those photos to your phone on the fly, wallets flying in stores, those slightly lower quality ones on the actual form itself. So this is where you find them when you want to share them or look at them, review them. Just as an example, you can see here fantastic photo I took off the ground. You can browse them and zoom in and out as you would normally. Looking at the create section, you can, with a few clicks, create like a quick video and we will float in automatically taught boring paces out and put interesting things together and make an awesome little video with music. You can choose what music, add that to it, and then share it off to any social network. So it is quite a handy feature and can produce some quite good videos as well. But if you want to do something more serious and professional and we will obviously have to get that original data off the drawing and use something like Final Cut Pro, Premier Pro. It's not going to make a proper version, but that is a good section to have. You've got the scar pixel section next, which is their social network, if you would, for DJI, you can view other people's photos, things that have shade. You can follow them on Twitter or something like that. You can follow if people. But it's just fantastic, I think to have a look at old photos and videos that they've posted up gives you a good idea of what types you can do. That's what that section is and you've got your reasons and following sections up here as well. So that also have competitions and tips and articles that I post there. It's good to have a look every now and again. Finally, you've got the main section, which is all your account details and sittings for the application. So you've got your account details here. If you click through, you can say, we all fans and followers and lots of stuff. You can go to a DJI store again, you can go to your filling into count. You can flop record again. You can go to the diegetic or forum or support for issues that you might be having with your drawing. I probably recommend posting something on the forum first. That's an excellent place to go. You already have your account because you've signed up with DJI, don't come. There's a lot of people on there that will help you out with any and all problems is even staff from DJI that frequently calling and all that sort of stuff. I did say though also sittings in here as well, you probably won't have seen it, but up in the top corner here is a little cities DO. If we tap on that, you'll see there's more settings for the actual application. Things like clearing your cache, checking for updates to the application, turning off cellular data, the privacy settings, something that I'd recommend going into and just turning off all the watermarks and all that sort of stuff. I don't know why anyone would want a DJI watermark over their photos, but luckily, you can easily turn it off. And that's pretty much all the settings and all the areas of the application will now move into part two, which as I said, we connect to the drawing in this section here, we'll go to blue and we'll be able to enter the drawing and look at those settings on there. Welcome back to part two. So now that we've got our actual phone connected to our control and we've got our drawing turned on. We're all connected and ready to go here. We'll go into that go fly section down the bottom so you can see down there and told that up in blurred. And the connected signal down in the bottom left-hand side is connected. So now we're going to tap that Go Fly button. And we're going to go into the main menu area. So as you can see here, I've just got this sitting on the floor, which is why to read and why it's complaining that there is no position. And we're currently in a TTI mode when this is actually outside. And then I'll show you this later once we go through basic flying well, that sort of stuff. The section at the top here, we'll say all flying. Now if we tap on that, it can go through all the lightest details and stuff. So you can see we've got the latest firmware. Our campuses all normal. Imu is all normal. Vision senses are all normal. Lets you customize the customers more buttons here. And brought down the bottom we can see our SD card and you can very easily just click in format.com. I would suggest doing that. At most times you fly, obviously if you haven't backed up your actual Delta first, I do it. But it is always handy. The last thing you want to do is be flying around and getting great shots. And you can't record because he SD college full of stuff that you had from the previous plot is a good idea to format your code each time 40 flawed. The guy in back out of that, we'll just go around fully clockwise. Up the very top here you've got the digit and I logo. If you tap that, it will just take you back to the main menu. So if healing by phone, you can click on that and hit back bulgur back into mine. There's a lot of stuff happening here. So I'll try and to sort of go over very quickly. Up the top. You have, as I said, the status of the drone turn leads in no position mode because weight in sod, it's very difficult for it to get satellites inside. You want to make sure that saying ready to fly and has GPS locks on it. Moving across, you've got that little green lawn underneath, which is your battery percentage. You've also got those two white dots to the left-hand side and that's your medium morning and critical warnings. So these are configurable and it'll cover those in a little. Moving across if you've got your current mode, which as I said, currently it's in a TGI mode because there's no GPS signal. Hopefully you all should say GPS when it's outside. Next to that we have the GPS satellite indicators. So there's a number of these indicators side-by-side wherever one by 1. First is the GPS satellites that should tell you obviously how many GPS had a lot to have connected to your drone. You'll want this to be a good 12 plus sort of thing. If you are adding the Earth and you want to make sure there's lots of satellites can do to it, giving it lots of stability so that it can get a good accurate position of exactly where it is. Sometimes it might be upwards of 20 or maybe less. But you want a good ten to 20 is a good route, reasonable. Lawn. Moving on from GPS, you've got the little dot where the radiating lines coming out of it. Now this is for your object avoidance on currently connected to a medic PRV that has object avoidance in front and the bottom, 40 old, faded and fall apart. You've got on the front and the back well, as the sides and all that sort of stuff. Sorry. Depending on which during that we're using, you may or may not have that full facades moving over there, say it's in red, obviously, I'll explain that right off. Whenever you got to be, you've got this indicator signal here, which is for your remote control. So that's the actual connectivity from the march itself to the drugs. So that's a very important one. If you want to, if I keep controlling your drawing, you don't want to lose that up next to it. You actually have a little HD with more bars on it. And this is a bit of a complicated thing, but the control actually send out two signals, and one of them is for the actual controlling of the drone itself. The other one is for the image that you see on your phone. So they're two separate links and they have two separate qualities. You may not be able to get a high definition video download from your drug. You still might be out of actually control it in Florida where that's what those two individuals and his main obviously it's not that important and you can see what the drawing is sitting as long as you can still control it. You can't control it and you might have some problems. It will hopefully return to home if that happens. You've got your battery percentage, which is currently at 96%. As I said, this is also represented with that green line up the very top. Continuing. Underneath that, we have the ISO and shutter speed as well as the exposure compensation value and also the white belt. So all of these are explaining laid out on the camera settings and stuff. If you don't know what ISO or exposure compensation or whatsoever selfies. I'll go over that a little more in our final section on photography and videography with drones and all that sort of stuff. But it's very similar to cameras. So that's what that section is. To slightly to the right of it. You've got what type of thing you're recording in, whether it's in JPEG or rule for still image, or perhaps for k or teenage P for video. And it also tells me next toward the capacity to current layer. I'm recording JPEG pictures and I can record over 6 thousand of them on the memory card that I've got. That's because I'm in picture mode, which you can see on the right-hand side here. If I were to type first step, it would take a photo and I can click this Play button down here and actually have a look at what the actual photo shooting it worked. Moving on, you've got your auto focus on manual focus. You can change that to manual focus, back to auto focus. Some of the drawings may not have this. This is the kinetic per obviously the family for PR and we'll also have this manual focus ability. The standard phantom forward doesn't. Yours may not have that. And then you've got the switch button here, which switches between video and camera lights and narrowed and the camera in video mode. And I can easily switch back to camera mode, damping up. Moving over to the left here we've got the takeoff buttons I view at a tap that you can take the door off. And we will, as I said, getting to that, when we go through basic fly, down below, we've got that gray down button, which is the return to harm bond. Obviously you need to be flying left to actually work. Then underneath that we've got the intelligent slot motor, which we will go over that in a separate more advanced flying. Underneath that we have the map here, which you can tap and zoom in and zoom out and see where you are. We can then tap the picture back and it will switch between them. Next to that you've got d for distance. You also have high H for horizontal distance. That is the horizontal distance or vertical distance. You also have the horizontal space and vertical speed in meters per second, as well as the visual position. Sorry. Moving on around the corner, you've got the settings for the actual photo and video and we'll go through that as well in a minute. But the actual mainstream he off, you'll see this little green square. You can focus on it. You can also hold down and draw the gimbal up or down using this sort of easy to Dr. thing. Or you can just simply use the controller, which is what I'm doing now. That's pretty much all the information on the actual gadfly section. There's even more. I haven't covered these three dots up here, which we'll go through in a minute. And also the settings for the cameras, which we'll also go through. But I just wanted to give you a very quick review and data on all the different sections of the main view off. In a minute, we'll go into the main settings. I just wanted to come out in one other point for those who have the DJI spark and who are only using their phones as a remote. So they might not have by the controller or the phantom control. I didn't buy the flow and more combo for the Spark you just bought. Just as VOC and nothing Gilson, you're controlling everything by your phone. It might be you just try out the phone for another thing. So while you will still have the usual screen, which I've explained, obviously a water bath. You will also have two onscreen buttons on your actual device. And I'll show an image of it here so you can see what I'm talking about. But you will be controlling the drone of width, your left and right founds upon the actual device on top of this interface that I've been explaining so far. Sorry, it does complicate things a bit more, which is why I strongly recommend that you do get the remote control because then you can actually control everything independently of your phone and use the phone simply as a viewfinder and have all that information displayed over the top of it because there is a lot of information displayed, as I've explained. But if you are just flying through the phone for a minute for that sort of thing, then obviously you have the left and right joysticks, which map to the left and right joysticks here, depending on which mode you have, depending on what they do. Again, I suggest for true, there is also a button in the bottom left-hand corner underneath the active track, which will enable disabled the actual on-screen controls. You can press that. That's one of the more unique features upon the actual Spock. Or when you are actually controlling the volume of the ball phone only. So just be aware of that if you've got the paint and prior or the Pro just the regular fandom, you obviously won't see that come up on your phone and on your interface parts of the Spock owners department, we will just wanted to cover that a little bit of extra thing to make sure that I've got all the various different parts for both the phantom series, dramatic series, and also the spark series. Generally speaking, it doesn't matter which one of the drawings you have. The interface is gonna be almost identical on different drones. There's different parts like there'll be different modes of active tracks as well. There'll be different intelligent flat nodes which we'll be covering later on as well. And I'll point out the differences between each of the drones there as well. Like I said in the actual menuing systems when you're under the controller settings on this side, it's gonna be different for Phantom controlling. This is unethical spot control off, but it's pretty logical. You'll be out to get them. It's just customization buttons in different spots versus different things. So I just wanted to add that little bit extra just to make sure that everything is covered in all three main drones I covered regardless of which one you have. And continue on with the rest of the century. Now we're going to have a look at the general settings section. And there's a number of ways that you can get into this. The main way to get into the full menu is by tapping the 3D points in the top right-hand corner like this. Once you do that, you're getting to the general settings section where you can do things like change from metric to imperial. You can change what the long press action does. You can choose your live streaming platform, lots of different things that you can do. So if you go even further, you can enable a Mac for China, mainland sort of thing, calibrate for China as well. I'm not in China of this and we're gonna be typing that. You can show the flat route, which is this little thing here. We'll draw up on the screen exactly the way your drone is growing. And Bain handy on suggested. You can also locally cached when recording. What they see is, is when you're actually out there flying around and you're recording video and recording photos and all that sort of stuff. It will be streaming that video back to your farm to watch live. And you can actually choose to have the phone record not in a slightly lower quality than what the drawing itself is recording to the Marco St. concept. I would also recommend that it's very handy and you can have final moments of your journey. You have to do actually crashed it or lose it. At least you've got something lower quality version of what you were doing stored on your phone for whatever you might want to use it for. But either way, it's also a good for you to instantly share on social networks as well and use that create a studio thing that I was showing you before in the edit section. So going back to the settings, you can also record audio with video and also sit you're videotaped capacity. Got quite a big storage amount. I'm going to sit up to seven. You can also set it to automatically clean up the video. And it will automatically clear the old videos out for you, which is quite handy. Moving on down, you can go through all the warnings and locking list and also sit your device name. Sorry, I've set mine is more than obviously, and you can choose whatever one you want. You can also have a look at the a dash, which is where you want to check for updates or see what version you're remote controllers on aircraft database, your application down by bullets sort of stuff. Moving on to the top, we have the MC settings. You can go and putting an identification number and the flat inflammation. Add that to drawing if you wish. But more important is the basic settings of the home point. Now, with the heart in point, you can choose one of two. The first one here sets the position to where you currently off. Obviously, you will need a good GPS signal for that, which we don't have at the moment because we're in solid. The other option is to sit the harm point Torah, everything actual aircraft ease. Now, the difference between that is you might want it to sit to a harm point when the germs out there flowing. Or you might want to just set it to weigh your remote control what is at the moment. You can choose between those two. You can also have a dynamic home point where the aircraft will continuously update the harm point according towards current position while trekking the person is inactive track mode. So let's a bit more complicated, but it is something you can do. Now the return to home altitude is actually quite important as I was discussing previously. This is walked to happen if you don't set it high enough so you view out flying and 30 meters, which is what this is currently set to true by default, is quite hot. We'll go over most treaties, but there's certainly a lot of buildings that will get in that white. If you want. You can go in and you can set that to something a little higher. Next up we have the intelligence light mode. So this is what I was referring to before, on the actual side of the controllers where you have the sports button, that won't actually work unless you actually enable smart mode. So this is where you go and you check enable intelligent flop modes and then allow you to change it over into sport mode and have a bit more Fund and that's what you want to do. Sorry, I suggest putting that on once you've actually done the hang, gotten the hang of the actual drawing and doing quite well. Next is the beginner mode, which will unite. It is something that's good to have bought. It does restrict your maximum altitude and your distance limits. I will say here var turn that on. It's going to limit that to 30 meters and change a whole bunch of settings. Pump will turn that off because we are not big enough. You can say it sets the maximum amount attitude to 30 meters and the distance limit to 30 meters. So we turn that back off. And it changes it back to the maximum altitude, which is a 120 meters or roughly 400 feet. And that's the maximum altitude that the outerwear allowed to fly in Australia. You can also set a distance limit of whatever you want. Wherever you choose. Go through too. Advanced Settings and you've even got more settings. You've got emergency stigma, which is that CFC combination that I was referring to earlier on. You've got whether or not you've got propel adults connected and you can even add cinematic mode gain. Now, you might not have all the settings depending on which drawing you have. As I said, this is connected to another. Typically if you have the phantom for PR, you'll probably say a lot of these settings as well, but there might be the few odd ones. You don't see if you simply have the Phantom four or perhaps this bar. So don't be too scared if you don't say old days on your drawing. As you're following bar. Next up, we have the visual navigation settings. By default, when you come into this, a lot of these things will be disabled. As you can see here. You'll want to turn on obstacle avoidance. I'm not sure why it comes disabled, but you can obviously, I'm very bored at your will. And you'll probably want to turn on the horizontal obstacle avoidance and tap to fly backwards flying and active track. This one's a bit of a different one. You might not want to actually enable this one. What this is trying to prevent is on something called havoc Pro the spot and even the Phantom four, I believe it doesn't do backwards truck object avoidance, so we'll do forward Avoidance. And if you try and smart into a treaty will stop you. But if you're active tracking, so this is the drawing and it's tracking May, and it's up here and it's flying backwards as I walk forward towards it. It's obviously not gonna be able to see what's happening behind it. And it can just fly into a building or a trail. Numerous things united. So you can have it actually disabled flying backwards and active trucks will just not do that dangerous maneuver. So that's what that is there for. Whether you want to turn that off, on, off, on, off is up to you. You can also enable object avoidance, just in general, div truck, which are obviously suggests to doing. And you've got even more enhanced vision settings, which you'll probably never touch because they're all quite handy. Sorry, you obviously want to enable the downward vision positioning senses. Again, that's for the medic Pro and the phantom full pro winding protection is the aircraft will check the landing area when landing Protection is enabled. So this will main that when you're going into land, will make sure that the ground is uneven and that sort of stuff that may put up a bit of a font. And when it detects that, it's a bit of a steep gradient that it might fall over if that happens. So that's what that section is. Therefore, it's a good thing to have turned on. Precision landing is another one that was released, just racing really. What this is is that usually when the drawing takes off, it hovers in the air for a minute or two and gets a lot of GPS signals and tries to try and guide exactly where it is and where the return to her position is. What the extra precision landing does is it actually takes a photo and actually roses off a bit higher than me. It takes a photo off the ground. And what it does is when it comes back, it comes back to that rough GPS location, might be somewhere in this two or three meter radius. Then it uses that photo that it took before and the photo on the video that it has at the moment to try and align both of those two to get it as accurately as possible to do precise landing wherever can do. That's what precision landing isn't again, it's something that you'll want to have turned on mode out. The return to home. Obstacle detection is another very good one. This is something that will work on of the drugs. So when you keep returning to harm and it's going along and it senses a building or a training its path, it will try and actively avoid that q-dot setting is on. So it is definitely something that you want to just turn on. And moving on from the advanced vision settings, we'll go into the remote control as Settings section. So this again will be different depending on whether you're flying a maverick correspond for a phantom series drawing. But it should be generally the same for most part. So starting off, we've got the remote control of calibration, which you have to power the aircraft off and then calibrate the remote. You can also use the fixed it mode so you can check there to enable level. Again, explain that in the lightest section on more advanced intelligent flowing modes. Next up you've got the remote LCD. So this will tell you all about the LCD for the mother. So that's what's connected, will be different depending on which one you're flying. You also have an option to change the stick mode. Now, I would suggest that you just simply stick with motor. Most places in the world use mode to button. There are a few places that you use different loads. If someone tries to come and fly your drone, though, most likely to expect that it will be in mode two. So that's why I'm suggesting to just stick with it and learn from that. If you don't like that, you can change to a different mode in that section. Moving on, we've got the bottom customizations. So that's for the C1 and C2 buttons at the back of the medic per control up. Again, with different controllers and different drones, you'll have different button customizations. But by the way, regardless of what controller or drone you have, diversity heal. Then you just tap the button and choose whichever one you want to come up. Very simple. Moving on. Again, this is the magic pros are that has its special five of the button customization. So that's this little button here. And that has obviously five separate ways that you can trigger up-down left rod and also pushing the button itself. But again, you can just tap on whatever one you want and choose what you want. You also have this remote control on linking section down here, which allows you to link a secondary rumored for some reason perhaps you broke your original remote tool, something happened to it and you were needed to replace it, or perhaps you're a spock or not and you bought a remote control for your spot that didn't come with a flaw and more humbler. You didn't get that combo and bought it later on. That's why you'd go to link your new remote. That is the remote control section. And now we'll move on to the image transmission section. You can see here it gets a little more complicated and technical. Generally, you want to keep the channel mode on auto. This image transmission section just generally deals with the transmission between the actual controller and the drone itself, as well as the image that Spain, since, you know how I said those two sections, one for the controlling of the drawing and month, the actual image that's displayed on your farm. This is the image transition transmission in section. So it will tell you how strong the signal is. They will tell you what type of mode you can put it in with. Regular or smooth. If you have the phantom for Pro, you can actually change this. And this is where you go to select whether you want it to be transmitting the image on 2.4 gigahertz or 5.8 gigahertz frequency. So you might want to set it to 5. I do the hertz frequency to make sure that it avoids the interference, say from wildfire would just other common things that you use the 2.4 gigahertz frequency. So I would suggest sitting into that. The maverick per doesn't have that option. We have the aircraft battery, which is again, It's very technical. I personally don't go into any of these very often because I want to know the exact voltage of the second part or the lithium ion battery. It's not telling me not to worry too much about, but it also gives you the voltage, the temperature, all that good information. You can also control how high your critical and larger battery warnings out. So this is the section up the top here with that first dot and second dot wherever. We can also get back to that battery section quickly by hitting the battery. Sorry, if I find the 10% 30 thought I haven't changed since I started flowing and I seemed to send me well, so you can leave them there as well. You have eight and more advanced settings which show your voltage on main screen. I'm not sure why you would want to show the voltage of your battery is on the main spring, but doctrines there if you want to. Moving back again onto the gimbal settings, again, another section, I'm rarely if ever go into. The main thing you need to be aware of here is the difference between the NPV and following node. By default, it should be in the following modes. And that's what you want when you're taking videos and you'll painting from sod decide or whatever it is in view and following that view, the SPV mode is for when you're flying. In first-person view. If you're wearing the degenerate Goebbels, you might change them. But it's not a very common thing. That's full of settings and we can go back to the general settings there again, it will jump out of them. That's all the settings for the main application, the art and the other settings? Yes, there's even more settings in here. For the cameras are down here, we click on here. And again, this will be different depending on what training you have. This is another, it is the more professional version, so you have more professional control over it. This will be assigned to the scientist for PPAR, gamma professional. There'll be different to the standard phantom For that warrant have things like manual focus murderers be always autofocus, different tweaks like that. So that is another differentiating factor between the Pro and standard modeled. But looking at this, it's currently on automatic mode for the pictures. So this is in the pictures merge. You can change that into the video mode and you can tap on that. You'll probably go into the video settings. But for now we'll stick with the photo settings. You can either have it on automatic or you can change it to manual, where you can change the shutter speed. So we can make it lots law. And you can see it's starting to get darker or brought up. And you can cranky also october that you're warned. We'll cover the ISO and all those other things in a bit more detail later on in photography and videography section, box of pasta to say it's pretty much exactly the same as cameras and regular digital photography. You can set it back to automatic. We can move on to the video section now, one of the most important things is the video saws Phantom four priority. You've got four kinds, and I've chosen four K at 30 frames per second. You can also have the more cinematic for chi at 496 by 2160 bucks for the standard 16 by 94 K will be the 3840 by 2160. Moving back, you've got your video format, which is just mall or MP4. So which card do you want to use? Whether it's NTSC or PAO, What type of white balance you want to have? 16. Section 5 - 3 - Firmware Updates: Welcome to this final section on family. After going through all the app, I just wanted to cover one more final section on the firmware and the upgrading of the controller and the drawing and all that sort of stuff. There's a few different sections that you've got to watch out for. So one is obviously the remote control and the drawer in itself. They both have firmly versions on the application, on the phone or your tablet. Iphone obviously can be updated as well, just like any other application that you've got. One other final component is actually the battery in the drawing like Holden intelligent flat batteries for reason that I have very sophisticated controllers in them. And I require firmware updates sometimes as well. So in this section, I just wanted to go through a few tips and things to watch out for when you do the firmware update. So let's get into it. So the very first thing that you'll need to do is obviously connect your phone to the remote control and then connect to a remote control to the drawing and make sure that's on. So we'll go ahead and turn our controller. This will be on top and start the application automatically. When the application starts. And notice that it checks your drones firmware version and then also compares that to the server and make sure that they are compatible enough tonight. If it's not, it'll notify you of youth and weird to be updated. When we go into the actual application, you'll say he does need an update and we'll be covering that in a second before I go through. I just wanted to point out that these updates can take quite a while to actually do so. You can do these updates adding the field if you really want to, but I would probably recommend against it. These updates can take anywhere from five minutes if it's just for the battery all the way up to like half an hour if you're updating the drawing and all that sort of stuff, you have to excuse the whirring sound, That's the fan from here, but just ignore it. Now, when you're doing the updates adding the field, not only is this going to take a huge amount of time, you know, coffin, he has a fatal Walden's be sitting around twiddling their thumbs, doing nothing quality updates. But you'll also note that on the drawing itself, if you click on the firmware, you can see here it's about 200 megs, so you don't want to actually be downloading that on your mobile data connection API can help it. Do the firmware updated home. Make sure you're connected to WiFi or the quicker it will be easy when you're just sitting there waiting, standing in the middle of epoxy some way doing nothing. The other reason is that if you are out in the pocket, do you want to fly? It comes up saying there's a firmware update, not a problem. Just sit that goes live button. It'll allow you to go and fly, no problems. It'll tell you that there is a firmware update required. Bot is not actually required. You can still go and fly for that. That's a little tip. The other one is that when you go into the program itself and actually try and do an update, you will notice that, for example, if I try and doing now, it's going to refuse it, signed the batteries lower than 50%. So when you're doing these updates, you'll want to make sure that the battery and the drug itself is harder than 50%, but also at the remote controls batteries hot or 50%. When it does the Upgrade, it'll download the data from the Internet. Push that to the actual remote controller, which then will push that to the drawing itself. So both the drawing and the control, I need to have a decent amount of battery to sit there for maybe as I said, up to half an hour doing this upgrade Lawson, you want Is your drawing or the control and to just crash and die from battery running out halfway through a firmware upgrade. That is a very bad thing to happen and could potentially break. You'll draw an old controller or birth. That's one thing that you want to make sure. So I'll just click out of that now. The other final point is that if for some reason you've updated to a new piece of firmware and not really doing it for you. Maybe it's delete you with your phone or maybe it just has a bug for everyone in it and day job working on the fixed. But for the time being you were a fly and you prefer using the thermo version before, maybe a couple of versions before. You can actually hit this hamburger icon up in the corner here. So press at home. And after a few seconds, this window here will pop off, allowing you to downgrade two different versions of family. You just select which version you want to downgrade and then hit the stop updating bones. That's more for advanced users. As I said, if something goes wrong with the firmware that you've updated to and you want to go backwards, you can choose that option. And finally, once you have updated your drawings or you've gone through you selected, stopped updating, it's downloaded or restarted the drawing a few times, it's successfully applied the update. Don't stop there. Take the battery out of your drawing and make sure you put in all the other bacterias and start up the application. It will check the drawing, the control and the bacteria again, make sure that everything's on the right firmware and then tell you about it. So you might do the update, take the battery out, putting your spare battery, load up the app again and connect to it again, your mom's side, there's another firm or octet because the battery itself needs an update and you've only updated that other bacteria, you need to update all of your batteries. That's just another little gotchas that you might need to do. Try and do this. Before you go and fly. All the updates, recharge your batteries, then you're all set to go from next time that you want to fly. That's firmware updates for the app and the controller and the drone and all that sort of stuff. Next up we'll be talking about safety and legal requirements. So I'll talk to you then. 17. Section 6 - 1 - Personal Safety: Hey guys, and welcome to this section on safety. So you might think this is a bit of a boring section, but please do watch it from start to finish. It is very critical and not just for your own safety, the safety of other people, and also more importantly, the actual legalities of flying or drawing and whether or not you can get in trouble or perhaps even fall and maintain since it's always to begin with when looking at personal safety. That's in regard to safety between you and the Jordan impulsively, the people with the journey as well. So the very first thing to watch out, it's kind of obvious. Blades will be spinning really, really fast when it's actually up and flying and all that sort of stuff. When it's on the brand, it can be sitting there flying quite fast as well. The Phantom series blanks will be spending much faster and they are quite hard in your bile made out of plastic, but it's a very tough, durable plastic, which means it comes into contact with the lecture. You need hands. It will do a fair bit of damage. It will cut people broke the scheme, you stopped bleeding. Not the worst injuries and possibly have. But that's just the hits your hand. If it actually hits somewhere in your face, it can do a lot more damage. And I wouldn't even want to think about what would happen to the hit you or someone else in the. Whilst. These are fantastic things to earn. Some people consider them toys, some people consider them fancy flying cameras. You know, lots of people dark, really tight drawings very seriously and I really shouldn't because although you guys to have a lot of the time considered a toy, they fly, they have HIV spinning blades that can do a lot of damage, especially to people's faces. And as I said in section three, it's very easy to misjudge how far away you are from someone. It's easy to misjudge how large of a distance you required to stop yoga at a decent speed. And all these things can result in drawing, coming towards someone's face or your face and during the mode of damage to it. Now, another very common one, as you contain this video here, is when people from what I can tell anyway, simply lose control. So here you can say a person flying their drawing and chewing, losing control and smashing into someone's fights body. That's at a wedding, probably the worst time you could probably do it. I would hate to think what happened to that couple of bucks. It's just an example. Paper post those videos as, you know, funny things for people to laugh at. But when you actually sort of stop and think about it, if you had one of these drones flying at you at a decent speed in a heat, you started with ice. That's not something particularly wish on anyone, especially if it was one of those tes ones or even heavier with the Spark, it's not too much of a concern because it is much smaller. The blades are obviously a lot smaller as well. Can still do a bit of damage, break the skin, and you obviously wouldn't want to anyway in New York eyes. So that's just this area in talking about personal safety of you and upon the people who were lots of stuff. But there's actually even more concerns for safety and I'll go over that in the next chapter. So I'll chat to you then about it and we can discuss it on a more serious safety, things that can happen with drugs. 18. Section 6 - 2 - More Serious Safety Concerns: Welcome to this section. Now, the Ziv having propellers guarantee of I is not serious enough. The section is bad, even more serious concerns to do drones. So as I said, many people think that his toys and really give them too much thought. They are focused on getting out there and flying and getting up, and getting great photos and videos. And that's all fantastic. That is a very good thing to do and will certainly cover that later on. But it's really important that, you know, just have serious diarrhea and how much damage during can do. It also helps to know this information when you read the laws and things that countries have them and where those laws come from and what they're actually thinking about, why they make those laws. Because sometimes they can seem a bit ridiculous and you're like, oh, it's just toying and why they made me do all these things. Why don't have to register it and stay a 100 meters from this in 20 minutes from that. And there's lots of rules and it's good to know the reasons behind me. It does make it more logical and why they're doing it. They're not just doing it to ruin your fun. Sorry. To begin with. The main point that most aviation authorities have concerns with. These are consumer-facing drawings. Then know for tough conditions that have multiple redundancy systems built into them. When you fly on an airplane, it might have two or four engines, and it can often fly with one engine. Those are redundant systems. They might have to double or triple redundancy for critical systems. These things don't have this. I mean, with the More highest series ones like the inspired to, they can have joule battery and redundancy in that regard. But for most of the consumer facing install Spark and ethic and phantom series that only have one level of systems. For example, if one of these propellers was to be damaged and flew off or you didn't attach appropriately with flu or for whatever reason, this whole thing would fall out of the Scott. Now, sure, it's got three other motives and three out of propellers box. It can't smile and just three of them, it needs all four of the systems or it's going to fall out of the Scott. Similar with the battery. It only has one Patrick if this patria when you put it in and he'd already really sort of attach it properly. It's not really the units discounter coughing it, maybe it's a bit faulty from the factory or something like that. And then you hear a click but it doesn't really going. Or maybe during a flaw, you do some fancy maneuver and it comes in and it releases or something, or it's damaged or the atomic becomes loose. Palette gets cup to the drawing, bows out of the Scott, Sorry. That's not to say of perhaps some integrated circuits file. Perhaps the software glitches. There's also just actually losing control of it yourself. Maybe you do that CSC command for some raising because you panic and I begin all of the motor stop and drop out of the scott. There are a 100 reasons why this thing could drop out of a scholar and when it does, it can cause some serious damage. So this method here is about 0.7 kilos of 700 grams, or about £1.6 if you're about 50 meters up in the air with this. So imagine 50 meters isn't particularly huge here in Australia, the maximum ceiling is a 120 majors or 400 feet. Either half that plot, say 50 meters, not very high in the air. For, as I said, for whatever reason maybe it's no fault of your own Europe. Perfect flaw. You've done nothing wrong. But one of the ICs inside are the controllers or the battery or something just files, it gets overloaded. Whatever it might be, maybe a bird flies into it, whatever the reason why they has nothing to do with you as a pilot doing something grown. This thing falls out of the sky from 50 meters. It's going to land when it, when it actually hits the ground, it's going to be traveling at about a 110 kilometers an hour. That's about 70 miles an hour of people in America. Imagine this slamming into the top of your head or your face as you're looking up if you are innocent bystander or something like that. I didn't this slamming into your face at a 110 kilometers an hour, 70 malls and that is going to do some serious damage. These propellers are probably still spinning wallets out. It would not want to be onto that and it gets even worse. I mean, if this thing was actually to do that, if it was actually to hit you at a 110 kilometers an hour, given it's white and it's state, that's about the equivalent of 350 joules of energy being transferred into whatever part of you that it actually slammed into. Now, give you an idea of what 350 joules is. If you were to type a typical average penicillin and get them to punch you in the face. That punch would have about a 100 joules worth of energy unit. Sorry. This is like having 3.5 average people punch you in the face simultaneously. If it was actually two for one year. Not the best thing to have. Plaza has spinning propellers as well. And that's the magic. The magic is quite a lot during, as I said, at 700 grams, phantom lot heavier as well. So that gives you an idea of what type of serious damage these things can do. And as I said, it doesn't have to be that the pilot the pilot can be perfectly legal doing everything they could know, they could be flying for years. The drawing itself confound. That's what they really are afraid of and that's why they create all these laws about what you're supposed to fly over and what you're not supposed to fly wherever. It's different in each country and all that. But primarily that's where their concerns come from. Beyond that can actually cave and worse, because that's what happens if it falls and the crashes onto a single person. Imagine if you're out having fun. You're flying the old phantom for programing, getting some fantastic shots. You're flying over intersection and getting downward shot of all the cars going in and out of it. It looks really cool and birth wise and toward one of the propellers you haven't really attached properly and it flows off all necessary. Maybe just suddenly consulted the German fighter was not a single fault of your own. This thing plummets out of the sky, crashes into a car on the intersection. This thing is much heavier than the phantom. That's quite possible. That will either go straight through the windshield itself or the very least, scare the crap out of whoever is in that cop thought probably creating off the road and smash into something, they might die. If they're doing that, they might smash into another column that's hidden in the opposite direction. You do not want to be flying these things or the paper will overcome because they also have laws in some places that you're not allowed to fly over about actual duties as well. That I didn't say too much of a huge issue. I mean, obviously the crashes into a building in life, damage to a building or a minor damage your drawings as well. But it's not a huge loss of law from, I guess smashed Window or something. But if that's the that's the law. For me, it's more concerned about what damage these can do to actually people, whether they're getting hit by the Germans themselves, or whether there actually in a car or something more serious like seven. That's the level of serious that you need to be thinking about when you're actually flying these drones. So I would highly advise beaming if it's not a legality or a ball in your country that you fly over people will flow of intersections or cause. I would really still avoid it because you may think that you are perfect pilot and that you never do anything growing really careful. But that doesn't take away from the fact that the steel consumer-facing dreams they can have filed and you may just pentagon or a bird might come out of somewhere I'm not going to have in the sky. There's a 100 reasons that I can't even think of why it may crash. So the only way to guarantee that none of those cases happened where things are hitting people and faces of smashing through car windshields and causing accidents and crashes and maybe people being killed or something like that, is to just fly over those areas, not fly over those people. You can have plenty of fun game fantastic photos when you're not over actual people and you're not over actual colors. But that's one of the most serious things that I've always keeping the back of my mind that you don't want to be flying over those sorts of people or areas. Now, I know that this obviously takes some of the fun out of it. It is quite difficult to find an area with no teeth with no cause. And that especially if you're living in an urban environment sort of thing. But again, it's up to you, It's your choice one. You may have the laws that prohibited, so you might actually be breaking on board, but even if you don't have those laws, you've got to sort of wire up the odds. That fun really worth the potential of having your drawing four out of the air and smack into some child's face or crash them to work off. For me personally, it's not that there's, of course, other people out there that do stupid things. I'll show you this quick video here, which is someone in grace and flying out that is trying to get as high as possible to set a world record. But as you can see in the video, there's actually an airport right next to him. Sorry. They're doing something quite illegal and grace, there's all the walls which makes what they're doing even more illegal. And aside from the fact that it's just dangerous than luck, the plane that flies into it or something like that. It kind of ruins drones and ever, and also the other side of this, if the more accidents that happen, the more times people flying to plan crashing the people slam they joins into cars, the more the rest of the world gets scared about drawings and the more restrictive laws they'll be placed on it. So there'd be that guy and do stupid stuff with your drone. Keep it from Cape and simple and keep it safe. And most drone pilots do follow these rules and it's 99% of people have no problems whatsoever. I'm not that guy, but it's just that one visiting the common rooms at for everyone said might be that 1%. And next up we'll be covering the actual legal laws that will be in your country. Tells torque either. 19. Section 6 - 3 - How To Find Your Country's Laws: Now that we've talked about general safety with your adjourn and just want to be aware of them. The reasons behind why countries have the laws. I wanted to speak about how to find the laws that are in your actual country. Obviously, this is course, this course is global and anyone from any country any way can be watching this. Unfortunately, I can't list every single countries low. And I wouldn't really want to do that anyway at one, again, it would just go on forever and bull the pants off of you. More importantly, these moles, chopping and changing all the time. But it's a faster decide if you want to know about the laws in your country, the easiest way is to simply Google it. You'll want to Google something like draw an ideation bores with your countries. And I didn't after babies, usually by country, not city or state or anything like that. So for instance, if you wanted to learn about India, you would do in driving country during aviation laws, India. And this should be a central Aviation Authority, something like Cast off in Australia or the FIA in America. I should have specific laws on what you can and can't do with your drug. Some countries just completely bandit. Sweden doesn't allow any drugs that have a recording camera on them, so you can still apply, I'm drawing. But if I actually have a recording camera hormone, which is of course most determines allowed to do that. Other countries have banned. And the tile. I'll be going into some more specific examples in the next section. We will include America, Australia, and India, which are some of the top locations people want to fly drones. And also because administrative. But if you don't fall into those three categories, have a look up on Google and just talking your country followed by some type of central Aviation Authority. And it should come up with those results for you quite quickly. Be aware that some places, because drawings as such, new technology that has only really come of age in the last three to five years max, to think. Often legislation just don't move that quick. It doesn't move anywhere near that quick. You can type them maybe a decade, we even start thinking about putting in some type of legislation. Sometimes they may not actually be any laws in your country on droids. And this can be The good thing or bad thing. There's very low as you can effectively do what you want. But at the same time it's difficult because you don't know what you're not allowed to do. There's still going to be some aviation wars for general planes and you're drawing because there's very specific law stating the drawings fall into this category and need to do this. You'll join will just be classified as any other aircraft out there might have to register with things and do all this really complicated stuff that you don't have to wear out because I think your drawing is a full employment and they classifying it exactly the same as a foreign client. One of the best ways to know and learn about the legalities and your country about drones is when you actually purchase your journey, you should find a book, that booklet in there from DJI specific to your country telling you what your laws are. Heedless, not there, you can always, as I said, they're the Internet and it's good also to just stay aware of these modes because as I said, I can change and they do change. It is very new and legislation is being updated all the time between the different countries. So I'll now move on to the more specific examples of the countries. So I'll check with you then. 20. Section 6 - 4 - Some Common Law Examples: Welcome to the section that a lot of you are probably most interested in. And that is some specific laws around drugs. Sorry, again, that depends what country you're in and our conduit that every country, so I've chosen three of the most popular countries out there that people flying and Boeing joins in. To begin with is America. America is managed under the FAA, which is the Federal Aviation Administration. And with that, there is actually a difference between flying for work and play. So if you want to fly your drone commercially and you want to make money off it and sell pictures are lots of good stuff. Do have a look at the FAA website because there are different extra, additional things that you'll need to do a lot with these laws. The very first thing that you need to know for America is that you need to register your DeVos. So you need to go to this website here and register your device, assuming it weighs more than a £0.55, sorry, even the magic and the spot, obviously more than that. So the cost for this is pretty long as are they $5 US have to pay that one. So it's very simple at all along. You just fill out your details and apply. It lasts for three years. And when you actually get your registration number, you will need to put it somewhere on your drawing. Now, if you've got a phantom drone, good trick is that you can actually put it on a piece of paper and actually just put it in the actual cavity where the battery is. Obviously not over any of the metal connect to click those or anything, but just somewhere on a piece of paper is quite. Alternatively, you can put it on a sticky piece of paper on the topic of your drawing. You can engrave it in whatever you want to do this now, set specific rules of what you need to do. But you need to have your FAA number registration number on your drone somewhere. That's for the actual FIA. You also can't fly within five miles or about eight kilometers of any port, which is pretty standard. You must always yield rush of Y2 aircraft as well. If you're flying around, even if you don't near an airport and helicopter comes flying by, you always must give them right away on recommended just landing or hovering a bit off the ground and just wait till the area's clear that you don't have any issues interfering with them or anything like that. You also must follow any community loans in the area for America. And the final one is that you must keep your drawing unit visual line of sight at all times. Sorry. You can't be flying it. Six kilometers a wine way. You're not going to say this during rainy, during, no matter how big it is. Six colon as you say people during that, by actually breaking the law and you need to always be able to see your drawing with your two eyes. That's for America. Those are the laws for it. It's not too restrictive. As I said that I mentioned in think about fluorine not flying over people. Cause, but obviously we recommend doing that either. Moving on from America to Australia where I am, it's a little bit more restrictive than America. But at the same time we don't actually have to register our dreams. Sorry. For Australia, that's managed under casts off, which is the civil aviation safety or authority. They have their own website that you can log into and look at all these roles as well. As I said, you should also get a booklet inside your drawing when you actually go and purchase it. Just like in America, there are differences between flying for pleasure or for business. So you wanted to do it for a business, their website down more in-depth things that you'll need to do to actually get a Lawson's and stuff. So details on their website and bought. Just flogging for fun, taking photos and getting cool videos. You don't have to do any of that. Now, while you don't actually need to register the drone, as I said, like they do in America. Do you still have a fantastic website which you can see here, which is drone fly at.com.I use. I also have an excellent application here which tells you where you can come fly. So you can actually have that on your phone with you. You can open it up. It'll Locate you and tell you there's an airport nearby or heavy pad or maybe a Marine base or something like that that you're supposed to fly in here. That's a fantastic application. Other things for Australia is you must not fly your journey and the way that causes hazard to any other aircraft or anything similar to the one we're America, you see it? Airplanes line by, just get out of the way, go down as low as possible and just white until it is nice and clear. You must not fly above a 120 meters. So that's roughly 400 feet as well. Your drawing should come pray for figured with that as I ceilings that as you go up and up and up, you'll keep 120 meters in her paper at you and say, flight altitude reached and stop you physically from going any higher up. So you don't generally need to worry about that. Just be aware of the settings there for a reason. It's the law above that you must fly your drone in the area. You must have flying in an area where the public is, things like cricket ground, fires or other types of events. This can even include beaches as well if there's lots of people are in, because I've said they're a little more strict about flying or develop people and cause here in Australia and America, the more restricting laws that we have in Australia is that you can't fly your drone within 30 liters of a person. Unless that person is critical to actually controlling the drinks, are obviously critical to controlling the drugs. You can fly within the amazing yourself. If you have commissioning from that person, then obviously that's our odd as well. But if it's just a random person out in the public, you want to stay at least 30 meters away from them. Moving on from that, you must operate on the OneDrive that a tongue deliver ever seen anyone trying to upgrade and fly to draw lines at a time, but that's a little, that's a thing. If you're drunk, driving weighs more than a 100 grams, which most well, you must not fly within 5.5 kilometers, called a controlled erudite. Usually those are the ones that actually have a control tower on them. You must not begin flying within 5.5 kilometers of a non controlled erudite. If there is a main aircraft operating to or from that era, you must safely maneuver your drone away from the path of a manned aircraft and land as soon as safely possible. You'd you become aware of a manned aircraft is actually operating in that area? You must not fly at night or through Cloud or fault. Sorry. That's probably something that people don't instantly come up with, but you're not allowed to fly it at, not those videos you see online with people fly up through clouds into rain. Bought people fly the drones and rain down, not waterproof, don't do that. But in Australia also not allowed to do that. You're not allowed to lose visual line of sight and she's the next mode. You must have visual line of sight and the joints as you're flying it through fog. Obviously you can't say it anymore. That violates both of those lowest. So always keep visual line of sight and mudra. And that doesn't mean through binoculars or through your application on your phone or anything like that. It must be with your eyes so you can't see or during the deal, honest, you're breaking the law in Australia. Living on, you must not fly over people, as I mentioned before. And you must not fly in designated restricted areas are things like a report or no flies or Intuit as I said, perhaps military base or something like that. So that's all the laws for Australia. And as I said, say a bit more defined and stricter than America that recently castle, the Aviation Authority here in Australia recently released a whole slew of information which is fantastic, giving people gardens and what they can and can't do with their drawing. But even a year ago that information was a bit less, please, That's good that I've done that now. And I'm told on all evolve over time. Hopefully it'll get less restrictive. It people are doing stupid stuff like many of those videos, perhaps northern part. Those are the current Moore's for people in Australia. If you're in India. Unfortunately, the country has all been banned flying drones. In India. It's managed by the DEA GCI, which is the Director General of civil aviation. And flying drones in India currently is, as I said, it's band. You can flog them, but because there's a formal laws on specifically drones, you essentially have to treat them like an aircraft, flying aircraft. You can do that. Obviously. You have to go up to fill out a form and I'll show you that here. This is the form that you have to actually fill out, which is an application from registering your journey. And you can also follow some guidelines which are on the DG CIA's website as well. But basically this isn't all just because. They don't have any rules specific to drugs. They do have draft guidelines that they currently doting and hopefully we will release soon. But it is still a draft, which means the existing laws still apply and that's what you have to follow. So technically you can follow adjourn in India, but only if you filled out that form and gotten approval for it now, and I know how difficult or long that process types. But given their essentially trading them like aircraft could be bad, include India. Just be careful with that. Taken to a unique permission to fly or jargon regardless of where you are. Now. For other countries, there's many other countries out there as I said, and I can't cover all of them, but some of the other more popular ones and ones they should probably look out for the following. So we have Thailand, as an example, has banned all drones with camera equipment on them. There's also Egypt which prohibits unmanned flight without permission from the local aviation safety authority. So again, that's very, very restricted, no thought whatsoever. Sweden has also recently banned filming from adjourn without a surveillance permits, sorry, the swayed and that's a bit more of a surveillance thing. They're very private. Locked their profit, privacy. So it's not so much the drawing, the camera on the drawing, so I don't know if you can turn the camera off or it's not recording it, That's good enough folding. But generally, just being aware of that of urine Sweden, the Federal Aviation Administration, so the FAA and America is also declared Washington DC, I know drone zone. That's absolutely no drawings. And Italy is actually another popular holiday destination that has drone moles that it even stricter than Australia's. As I said, Australia's relatively strict at certain restricted in America bought a lot of people complain about it and caches responses will. There's other places that are even more restrictive than what way the laws were giving you are. One of those countries is Italy. Italy that actually got during the war was that band flats that go higher than 17 majors or further than a 115 meters from the operator center. While here in the strategy, you can fly 120 meters and as long as you can see the drawing, you're good. In Italy. You can only go 150 meters and 70 meters high, so that is quite a bit more restricting. You also get punished if a bit more. So in Italy they've got a lot higher fines. And there's actually a recent case where a French tourist came about and flu they DJI phantom three. So this actual drawing right here. Got it. And I decided that I would like to get some photos and videos of the policy. And so they started flying a drone over the Colosseum, Waldo, our own holiday, got caught by the Italian authorities and male, apparently that person's facing farms up to a $170 thousand. You do need to be aware of these rooms, not just because you don't want to be doing something illegal, but you can be following to quite a lot of money depending on which country you're in. So that's all the different countries and the main ones in terms of what you can expect from Lois and knows my countries. Coming up next, we'll be looking specifically at the nurse lives on. So these are the zones that are around airports. I'll talk to you then. 21. Section 6 - 5 - No Fly Zones: All right, so now we're onto the final section of that safety, which is all about the disease or the no fly zones. The notify Zones, obviously not DJI specific or anything greater than drawing specific as well. These are just areas that you do not want to be flying. So what could constitute an Earth lies on the most obvious warning is an airport. For most countries, you don't want to be flying anyway, knee. And airports are at least five kilometers, fought miles, maybe even eight kilometers depending on the country that you're in. The Claudia easy rules to look up as I alluded to before. But in general, we just want to avoid these next slides are most commonly airport, but it's not just the major international airports. So if you live in New York and you've got your two main international endpoints. There might be other airport nearby that a slightly smaller, more local airports that you shouldn't be flowing. The other, you've got Halley ports as well. You shouldn't really be flying. Day might not be classified officially as no fly zones with the red around them. They're not be yellow or even tabs grain depending on what layoff. But generally with the North flies aren't any of them that indicated in red on the DJI app or in many other applications that are out there, you want to stay as far away from him as possible. And the main reason for that is if you ever actually in one of them, you shouldn't be able to actively fly into them, but she take off inside one of them or knowingly or something like that. What will happen is that you're drawing, it knows where you are. I didn't know who's where no fly zones are. Because of that digital software will forcibly land your joints or it won't care where you are. You might be like, you might be a tree, a house, a car or a new section or something like that. It will tell you about it and it will forcibly leg you're drawing and you won't have any control to stop it from wending might be able to control it a little bit, but it will still force simply laid into a drug ETL inside that node flies on to, obviously, that's not a very good thing to happen. It could potentially crash your drawer if it's forcibly landing into a lake or something like that. Again, nobody would scenario to bed, tried to just stay well clear of them. And obviously you want to do that for the safety of everyone else as well. You don't want to be one of those people. Idiot paper on the news. What you say, flying into propellers of planes are flying Neo planes that you don't want to be anywhere near plains pop. And the fact that you might damage or lose your drone profit effect, that you might damage or endanger the lives of other people. It's just plain stupid and it ruins drawings for the rest of us as well. They save more and more drones flying into Oran airplanes. They make the laws even strict diet reduces the amount of funding that they can have with drawing. Sorry. It may be that guy, Steve, Whoa, clear away from if for some reason you just can't get a wife, wouldn't maybe you really love to fly in a POC and it's not 5.5 miles from the airport, but it's 5.6 miles from the airport and he just on the edge sort of thing. Just be careful because notify zones do change. Sometimes they might get slightly big up. New rules might come in. For whatever reason that area that you're not allowed to fly might suddenly just get that little bit bigger than the pop that you'll flowing in. It's just on the edge that all of a sudden will not be covered by that neutralizer. And so just be aware of it. Keep an eye out for an evil needed by, but ultimately you should try to, Steve will clear light from it. Another thing that people sometimes find if they're flying Neith, no slides, zones and something that you might want to look out for with this covers here, is that what will happen is the drawing of startup. And I'll take off and I'll be flying and there won't be any problems. But then all of a sudden, drawing would've stopped forcibly trying to land. And what they've found off the investigated more is that when the drawing takes off and only has if you do it very quickly, it doesn't have time to get the required GPS satellites and get a really good fixed position on its location. May think in the slides, but it actually is. And after a few minutes of flying when it's actually picked up all those satellites and calculated its most accurate position it realizes, oh, it is actually inside that node flies and obviously starts trying to wait, sorry. These are things that can happen. Other things that people also found is that Donald takeoff not in another flaw. And they're doing their thing that flogged random and exploring the George has correctly calculated its position and it's still not internationalized. But while that flying, literally as the flying the phone appetites the geo database saying what areas in no fly zones. And all of a sudden as a new nurse lies exactly where they are standing, it communicates this to the drug and it starts to forcibly land. And I have no idea what's going on because they'd be flowing in this location forever and all of a sudden, it's now just forcibly landing and I don't know what's going on until later on when they actually looked at the logs and understanding what's happening. So either way, my best recommendation is to obviously know floss and fertilizers to begin with. But also if you're near it, if you're within about a kilometer of it, try and preference on the places. Try and go to a different park or a different overlord, different field or farm or something like that where you want to actually fly that's well away from anything like the heliport or a army barracks by some very common ones as well where they have no fly zones. And the airports Obviously as well. That's just a special note that I wanted to put on no fly zones and unassertive, odd things that can happen with it. If you're living needed, or inside them. But as long as you stay clear of limitation 15, much trouble. So next up, we'll be going into the actual flying of the drug. So I'll join you then full basic Floyd. 22. Section 7 - 1 - Flying Preparation: Welcome to this new section on basic flying. So I'm really looking forward to this, the actual part where we go and fly the actual drone. Hopefully if you've been paying attention and watching all the previous sections, you'll now know almost everything there is about there to join in terms of that background knowledge, that is really important. You should be well versed and able to go and fly these drones beer before you actually do go on flight. There's one other thing which is just covering the flying preparations to do beforehand. So to begin with, you want to make sure that your software is fully up-to-date. So that's the right four-year-old phone for the controller itself, for the drawing of this, but also the factory as well. So all those four components, you want to make sure that all the software is up tonight. And as I said in the software updating section, you want to update everything switches. If you have any spare batteries, make sure also to date, and then recharge everything as well to make sure it's all backed up and pop up, then you want to make sure that everything gets fully charged with drawing. Doctor is fully charged. The remote controls, but trade is fully charged. And also importantly, you'll phone's battery is also fully charged. If you've got three of these batteries locking, the fly will come bark. That's about an hour and a half. A flat tone, that's an error and half of you are folding on probably full brightness if you're out in the sun and doing lots of calculations, it's gonna drain the bench where you remarked will charge it, but it's not quantum off. You lose 10% every ten minutes. Oh sorry, goods. You don't want to be going out there with 20 or 30% down tree. So makes sure all the batteries are properly charged. After you've done that, just before you walk out the door as well, you want to just quickly make sure that wherever it is even going here, it's actually labeled to fly there. That it's not a no fly zone. Like I was talking before, the law section that Pepsi, if you're going into a private park or a national park, a lot of those have local rules that say you may or may not be out of flight of joining this quickly. It'll come to their website and check beforehand. You want to make sure that the weather is already okay. So there's the obvious stuff. If it's pouring with rain, probably not the best. And as I said, do not fly these things in writing now on not waterproof, you know, they, they might get a little bit of splash on them and they are archived. But ultimately, and you don't want to get any water at all. That's the obvious one, is obviously one last sunny day outside. But at the same time, you want to make sure that the wind speed isn't too high. Ones like the medic, I believe I recommend about 25 kilometers or less wind. The remote and actual application warn you, come up from the corner saying high wind velocity detected, they care for flying, lay and immediately. But at the same time you don't want to drive a little eye out to the beach, get there and then realized that it's 60 kilometer an hour winds and there's absolutely no chance to be able to fly at all. You might save yourself a bit of time doing that. Sorry. The other thing is, it's preferable to fly at sunset or sunrise. And we'll cover why later on in the photography and videography section. But I told her a good thing to do. You also want to make sure that your microSD card is in your drawing, that it's fully empty. Anything on it with backed up with you want to format it. And also that it's the rods paid as I explained before again, if you've got the Fed and for Pro, which does for k 60 firms specifically, you'll want to make sure you have that slightly faster SD card, micro SD card. To make sure it doesn't stutter and mess up your recording when you taken it up. For the Spock, just your usual extreme. Microsd college should be farmed. We want to make sure you've got a card. It's big enough that it's actually being formatted and it's in your modern and all that sort of information. Once you've done that, you can also be aware of any pieces of interference. This is once you actually get onto salt, you want to check that maybe there's a mobile phone tower and that might be interfering with the staff. There might be lots of wireless signals around or maybe there's a booming or a hill or something that will just cut off your connectivity to the drawing from the control. Just sort of have a bit of a scope and see what's out there might possibly actually interfere with the actual drawing itself. You want to next, once you've actually gotten there, make sure that the gimbal covers, an clamps are removed. So as I said, the little piece of thing you're obviously going to be drug when they are walking. If you want to pack up your drawing awesome properly, when you get up, you want to attach rotor propellers or maybe just unfolded if you wanted to. But more importantly, you want to make sure that anymore covers off and unplugged before you start your drawing. Don't start your drawing and then go, I'm going to take the cover off by then it might be too light in this model have voted at the battery, sorry. Make sure that all those covers off before you actually stopped flowing. Once it's on the ground or the colors are off. Turn on the controller first and then turn on majority seems to work that off. You can do it the other way around. I've experienced some glitches that seems to work best if between the control law on first and then turn the actual drawing on second off, you've done that. You want to confirm that the drone has actually got older rats settings on its side. They return to harm has actually been sit especially for the spot. If you're running a controlling it with your phone and not the actual remote control. I want to make sure that you've set that return to home point as way you are. Otherwise it might not actually set or return to her important in that can cause some issues later on, if something goes wrong, you'll try to control it with your phone, for instance, and it loses signal and it doesn't have a return to home point. Not a good situation to be in. So for the Spock earn is out there, make sure that when you take off, if you're doing it with your phone to make sure that you're sitting that return to home point. Whatever else for the fan tunes and the medic aren't as that return to home point is probably going to be automatically saved as soon as you take off. But also do make sure that you check the settings of the return 200 hot. So again, this is a very common way people crash. They've drones where they'll set the height or just leave the heart at the 30 meters or roughly 100 feet. That is set by default. Fun for big trays, fun for general area is a building or particularly high mobile phone tower or something like that. You can very easily flying into it and it'll go up 30 meters. There'll be a big building and it'll just fly into it. Might have object avoidance bought. It doesn't always work 100%. So you want to make sure that returned hot, return to home hotness as high as possible and much higher than anything else, then you can see in the surrounding areas. So that's a very important thing to look out for as well. Finally, you just want to make sure that all your settings are correct, sorry that you're on full K and that's what you're wanting to record of your own JP plus R4 and that's what you're wanting to record in terms of photos, that you've got, your focus and all those sorts of things. Again, I'll compensate and move it in the photography and videography section. But for now, just have a quick general look of your settings whenever you start up the actual application and connect to the drone and stuff, it'll come up with that list of all the things like your firmware and arrows that it has. Campuses and calibrated appropriately. Just have a quick scroll through them and just make sure everything checks out and makes sense. That's about it for the flat preparation and all the different things, that is quite a bit, but you get into a bit of a routine of chicken software is up to date, checking on your doctors are up-to-date, making sure that covers a taken off. Looking at your surroundings. Highly recommend, just sort of developing a bit of a preflight physical checklist that you can actually brought in and use each time. Or if you don't want to go that far, just a bit of a routine, just something that you do every single time that you repeat every single time offend, it's the best way to guarantee that you don't actually make any mistakes, that you don't miss something you can do step one and step two, step three, and you just always do those same things. And you don't have a problem with studies. He just grabbed the drawing and running out that end up missing something though, grab their drone, run out and get draws for five, Colombia is really a dot. Get to the beach. They want to fly out and realize that all the batteries are going to start to drive back home and Moldau get out there and realize as I said, that it's 5060 kilometer wings and there's absolutely no way they can fly and introverts from raining golf, many other things. So five minutes to do these sort of check things just before you jump out the door on, while you're actually on site. But they do help you. They will save you a lot of time in the long run. So that's the flying preparation section. Next, we'll get into how to actually type off with your drug. I'll talk to you then. 23. Section 7 - 2 - Taking Off And Landing: Hey guys, and welcome to this next section on taking off and landing your drawing. Sorry. Now that we've covered everything from all the information about how to how to actually plan to go ahead and do the flying. You should be don't know your preparation. Rather that's odd, is wanting to actually start to take off and land your drugs. To begin with. I just want us to note that all these controls from now onwards, we'll be done for the mode two controllers. So when I say flying up, demonstrated on the controller or something like that, this will all be from load to which is, as I said before, the default. So if you haven't changed any settings, this should apply to you. If you have changed it to mode one or three or something like that, just be aware that ignore what I'm saying to you because it will be different for you. But to begin with, in order to take off your drawing, there's generally speaking, three different ways that you can do it. The very first, why is the manual way? And this was how you used to do back when there was only the phantom one or two or something like that. Nowadays with the Spock and Maverick and Phantom four series. Now, although automatic wise, which we'll cover a couple of ways. But to begin with, the first is the manual white. Now to do this, you'll have the drawing sitting on the ground is not turned on, nothing obviously the journal detail and on but the motors themselves will just be static and not turned on. You want to do that CSC committee and the one that I told about before in the first section on crashing and damage and adjourn. This is the case where you would actually use it. So that's the putting the control is either down an image or down. And Atwood's now, this will, as I said before, either turn on or turn off the motors. So we obviously want to turn them on so we can take off while the drawings on the ground and powered on, you do the CICS command, whichever one you want. Nice, we'll turn the actual propel his own and from there, you can take off nice and smoothly. Now, in order to actually tie it off once the propellers are done, you will want to just gently raise up the throttle. So this will make the drawing ascend from the, you can do whatever you wish. So that's the very first way that you can take off manual. Manual. So the way, the second way is by using the auto takeoff feature. And this is the feature that I personally use all the time because it's It's just very simple and it works. That's a good thing. The DJI are put into the app. All you do is press this Bordeaux takeoff button on the left-hand side of the application. Once you've done that, a little pop-up will come up saying, Are you sure you really wanted to take off? They might be roof above you or something. Got it. So you simply slide it to the rot and it takes off. As you can see. That's the second way that you can take off. The third and final way that you can take off is via the automatic takeoff bought with precision type golf, sorry, what this is for as when your drawings out on flying and lots of stuff and you hit the return to home button. It will obviously return to home by the return to home altitude and come back down and return to wherever the home point is. Once it gets to that heart and point, it will land. Now in order to land when it takes off, it updates that hard endpoint using the GPS location. It's sort of gets a range of like 30 centimeters to maybe 50 centimeters or made a depending on how many GPS signals that has locked on at the time. While this is good, could land or the heat or maybe it could land over here. It's not super precise and that's what this precision takeoff is full. What did I actually does is instead of automatically taking off and hovering and just recording the GPS location, actually takes off to about 1.2 meters in the NCL, probably around four feet or CR types of photo of whatever is underneath it. And the reason it doesn't is, as I said that later on when it comes back, I have uses that same return to home feature is signing GPS thing to locate the general 50 centimeter to one meter area radius of where the GPS location was. But then it uses its cameras that are underneath the drone to actually look down about what it's actually saying underneath it. And then it uses a picture that I took before to sort of line up a match exactly where it was. In this way, it gets that precision landing that it's told me about the pop-up. You can see here, sorry to do this. The exact same way that you would automatically takeoff. You keep the automatic takeoff button. The pop-up comes up that you select that precision takeoff section slide to the rod and off it goes. It'll fly up, type that picture off. And then later on, once it comes back by a return to home, it'll want up those pictures that I took along with what it's currently saying and land to within about a few centimeters sort of thing, I'd say probably anywhere from one to five or ten centimeters is pretty good. But that's the precision. It's often just sort of the difference between general automatic takeoff and your precision automatic Tyco. So those are the three main ways that you can take off with your journey. For the spock or it is out there. It is the palm launch palm take-off that we will cover in the next section, in section ite. So if you do want to learn about that right now, just jump ahead to the gestures section or the gesture mode in section. And you can learn all about those are the three main ways to type off. Now we're getting into how to actually land or drugs. Okay, so you've now got your drone up in the air and flying at our annual staffing, we want to actually come back down and wind. Now, the very first thing that I wanted to cover in terms of landing is that I really recommend, especially if you've only just started to fly, you're drawing that. You don't take off and then just go off and fly or at a whole bunch before you do that takeoff and actually land again just a couple of times. And so you may take-off plane take off late and get that sort of practicing of actually landing your jargon. Because what can sometimes happen is you'll take off, you'd be like, Yeah, Awesome, This is fantastic night and you don't often stop flying around and all that stuff. Inevitably, it's gonna run out of battery because that's what I do. And it turns out bathing at critical batch or a warning, warning babysit you flashes at you and it's pretty annoying to be frank link, that's the point. But it consider instill a bit of nervousness or anxiety, maybe even studio depending on how you are as a person in especially new people who are flying. And that can induce a bit of panic. And if you've never actually landed the join before having this thing bathing at your own flashlight you liked in our cardiac, cardiac, you're joining him to run out of battery. It's gonna crash, hurry up, hurry up, hurry up. It kind of just doesn't make it any easier to be frank. Practice taking off and landing while you've got a full battery while it's fresh. And once you've done it sort of two or three or four times and you're confident with how to actually land it. That means that if you do run out of battery and starts swinging at you, the critical bacteria come back quickly. You can be not as nervous. So the thing about actually landing, sorry to begin with once again, there's three ways that you can actually land you're drawing. The first way is manual, and we used to do before and actually how I do it most of the time, which is get your drawing, just flop back to you as well. It wouldn't flowing around habits sort of just in front of you. Make sure that it's at a moderate hot kind of thing. Makes sure that the ground underneath is very flat. Pretty much for all the drawings, it has to be quite a flat surface surface. Even if it's sort of a slight angle, you can get them possibly tipping, especially with the phantom series which are a bit higher up that you can sort of tip over if it's a bit of an angle sort of thing that can damage the blinds, usually still spinning with landing and all that sort of stuff. So make sure it's flat. Nitrile, there's nothing underneath the actual drawing, maybe big rocks or little bits of gravel, twigs or sticks or something like that. Even the magic is it's quiet, lower to the ground. Things can sort of get in and damage the camera, the spots, even Loa. Make sure it's not some CLIA make sure there's nothing that's going to kick up into the actual joint itself and awesome flat. And obviously, there's nothing else in the wife. Once you've made sure that that's all clear on that the drawings in front of you, what do you have to do is just hold down the down button. Now, when you do that, usually what happens is the underneath internal object recognition system will go down and sort of recognize that there is something underneath it, the ground obviously, it's gonna sort of start going down and then stop instead of hover instead of resist you, telling it to lightened. Basically instead of sit there for a second or two ago and there's grandma underneath me. Show you one of the moment. Just ignore it. Hold down that **** button, descend and just keep holding it down until it goes past that. Eventually it will sort of Holiday I'm a little bit and then continue down. Now, once it hits the ground, it will turn off from what it is. You've landed your drawing. As I said, trunk practice this a couple of times. Whether it's with this manual mode or this mixed mode that I'll come up. But try and practice this a couple of times just so that you're comfortable with it. So the second way of doing it is by heating the order of land button there. The order of land button, just like the order takeoff button, is on the left of the many, as you can see here. Again, you essentially fly the drone back to you have a, wherever it is that you want to land. Recommend directly in front of you. Press the button slaad to the rot concerning you do want it to lay it and it will automatically do the same thing, land and internal facilitators, and that's a very simple way of doing it. The third option is the return to home function. Now this not only returns the DeVos to the home point, but I don't know, sorry, lands the drilling foil. So that's a way of lending or during they have to do this, you want the return to home button on the Aadhaar, the actual controller, or it also comes on the app as well as you can see here. Once you press it, it will stop eating it you constantly that can get quite annoying if the drawing is a little far away, but it'll benefit you as it's returning. And again, as I said in that previous section about damaging or crashing your drug. Very aware that the return to home has a return to home altitude on its side. It may be 30 millions, it may be a 100 days. It'll be whatever it is that you've said it today or whatever the default is set to her country because it is different. Make sure you're fully aware of that altitude and your surrounding locations. If set to a 100 meters and does nothing but ten meter high trays and Randy, then your role good. But if it said to maybe 30 or 50 meters and there's lots of really tall buildings or objects or random, that's gonna be a problem because the return to harm, yes, it does return it to that hard point, but it types it up to whatever that altitude is. It brings it back and then comes back down again. There's a big booting in the way and your attend to altitude is only here. It's just going to crash into it. People think that they're returned to harvest a siphon and the candidate in ideal panicking and you're not really quite sure where you are during his goal and maybe keeping visual line of sight with it. But it's just gone that in a little bit too far. Adam did not really sure where it is and you can't tell which direction is which and how to get a back. It is very handy to just press it and habit reoriented itself income flying back to you again. But just be careful of objects at all or Randy. Another thing to be careful of with return to home is that it is the return to home point not return to your point. So the heart and point can be many different things that can be your controller, it convey way you took off from. There can also be notations that you specify on the map, and it can also be locations that just whenever it is that the drawing got GPS. So automatically when you turn the door and own, it will try to locate as many GPS signals as akin. And once it gets enough of them, it will lock on and set that as the hard point. Then it'll tell you, the application will tell you is that a hard point has been updated. Usually this happens when you first turn on majority and that's the sort of sitting there idle while you instead of setting things up and all that kind of stuff. If your routine is to put your phone in, set it all up, turn the controller on how everything buried it up, and then turn the geoid on him instantly stopped flying off. It might not actually have time to get enough GPS, satellite local, and to actually define the harm point is where the drawing, these tightening your throat, they might take off and then you stop instantly flying at all involved at home you'll ten or 15 meters or 20 meters. And why? That's when it has no satellite location marked on and that's what it updates the hot end point. And now you'll 100 isn't where you are. It's 20 meters that way. So when you press your return 200, it returns to 20 million is over there instead in to you. So that's just one final thing in terms of the return to Harvard point, and it's why I tend to not actually use a return to home button. Often I do occasionally use it, but I prefer to actually manually fly to joining back to where my location is an ADA, manually landed or use the automatic swap brought to lend option because that way I can be sure that I am flying the drug back to me and the home point isn't said in some random location. Yes, we can check the harm point before you press the return to home button, whatever your preference is, that is up to you. But just make sure you're aware of that the return to home button can have its sort of quirks about it, but it is a very good feature. I guess that's kind of the final thing that I just wanted to note is that try and develop your own sort of pattern you'll earn routine for both typing off and landing your journal. When you're flying or drawing, you might be following it 50 times, maybe a 100 times a year. Human era is going to creep into things. You're going to forget stuff. You're gonna do things wrong. And maybe you'll turn it on and fly off and forget to sit at home point just as an example. However, if you have a routine that you know, I always put my finger in here and then turn this on and then turn the Jordan on and then white for the high endpoint to be updated. And only then do I stop taking off and flowing and whatever your routine is that you develop, will you always use the manual takeoff and always use the manual land or whatever routine you wish to do and that you're comfortable with. Make sure that it is actually a routine that you go through every single time and get used to it because that way, it really helps to basically get rid of those random human errors that will pulping occasionally after you've flown for a long time. But it just sort of helps with the overall safety of the drawing and make sure that you don't crashed in any of those weed ways. That's all about taking off and landing your drum. Next, we're going to get into some very basic maneuvers while you'll actually up in the if. So, I'll talk to you then. 24. Section 7 - 3 - Basic Flying Maneuvers: Alright, so now that you're up in the air and you know how to take off and also, as I said, know how to actually lay in the germ line her own. Once you've practiced that a couple of times and comfortable with both of those things, It's time to learn how to actually fly the drug and a random little bit more. Now when I die for these basic flat maneuvers, I'll be showing you which control sticks to actually use and what the result is off the actual drawing self. And then I'll just do a quick view of what the actual drawing camera will say. So you'll get all the different perspectives. Also want to note that this is quite a short section because there's no too many basic maneuvers. If you're comfortable with the fly up and down, left and right. Although sorts of things feel free to move ahead. But if you want to stop brought from the stop, Let's get into it. To begin with. That is the flying up and down section. Obviously to do this, you want to go up or down. And to do this we use the left stick up or the left stick down, as you can see. Now, moving on from here we have the strafing restaurants. Are they a bit of a new term, some table but striping is not pivoting left our OT, but actually moving left or odd. So you'd go to strife rod or straight lift. So to do this, you want to use the right stick and you want to move the right stick, either left or right, depending on which way you want to strike. Next up, we have the flying forwards or backwards. This is your typical acceleration or acceleration in the car where you're flying folds are flying backwards. To do this, you want to use your stick and you want to go up or down depending whether you wanted to fly forwards or backwards, mixed up. And finally, if the full name moves, we have pivoting or turning on the spot whenever you want to call it, Sorry, pivoting or turning on the spot is where it's not moving left or right. But you're actually sort of turning old, pivoting on this fall, left or rod. Now to do this, you want to use your left control a stick. And you want to obviously go left or right. That's it for most of the basic moves. Now, obviously, none of them particularly complex if you want to fly following pretty trivial to press the forward control. But what you want to actually practice is trying to get the commands and the drawing does sort of into muscle memory. Now, the reason you want to do this is because if one day early on a bird starts flying towards your drawing, you want to immediately fly off from the other direction. If you have to count up stopping going. Rich, rich stick, is it that I used to it and then I've got to fly off that way. I'm going to accelerate surveys at this one or that one. United the birds flying in an attempt to draw whatever month day. For whatever reason. If you want to move the Jordan in certain direction very, very quickly, you need to have that muscle memory in the back your head that'll help avoid those bad scenarios. So it is good to get your practice in and that's all it really requires, just taking off, flying around and practicing maybe a couple of days and erode really sort of get it into your muscle memory and getting into your head about which commands do which. Another really good way of doing this is actually so does taking your drawing for a walk, because the White House, I would say, fly on drawing. So it's generally in front of you by a couple of betas and just a couple of meters off the ground and not spoken space. And just walk. If you walk forward, like you're droning going forward, if you walk to the left and make your drawing and go to the left, that's a really good way of helping your brain sort of get in touch with the drawing guide. If I push this button, it makes the drawing do this. It's a really immediate sort of one-to-one thing that your brain can basically easily remember if your drawings 50 meters, 100 meters up in the air and you can barely see the king. And maybe it's facing this way and you press the forward button on the flies off this way, it's not very intuitive to your brain to sort of map that button to that motion, but if the drawing's directly in front of you, you can see it nice and easily. And when you push forward, it goes forward in that direction. It really helps to solidify what controller does what and that together with actually practicing, I found really helped me to get up to speed and figure out how to actually make the drawing guide exactly where I wanted to go. The other thing that could help. This also applies to when you land as well, is make sure that the drawing is our antigen away from me. Sorry. Again, especially when landing if you Florida drawing back towards you might be facing this way. For instance, I need to lay on the drawing like Sir, I'd recommend actually making it face away from me. Say that again. When you press left, it goes in life. When you press right, It goes wrong. And it's that sort of one-to-one mapping all what you do. The drone dance sort of thing. In this kind of helps them make landing easier, flying it easier. I think you'll probably do it just sort of naturally, most people do, most people don't like having the Jordan facing this way so that when they press life that goes off, that sort of thing confuses them a bit, but it's very good to have it facing in the direction that you will face him. Along with taking it for a bit of a wool. As I was saying before, I know it sounds a bit silly, but it really helps to orientate yourself and teach you about the Jordan and how to do those basic maneuvers like flying up, turning left, striking rock, all those sorts of things. The next part about the very basic flight maneuvers is actually stringing them together and more importantly, doing so in a way that's nice and smooth. So even if all you're doing is flying forward and slightly turning to the left or slightly turned into a rock. You want to do this in a smooth and controlled fashion and there it is flying around and you just haven't fun. That's not so much of a big deal. But whenever you're actually taking video footage in your warning to use that video footage, you've got to make sure that it's really, really nice and slowly, not so much your forward motion, you might be going forward or 40 counties in our heads, 60 kilometers an hour or something like that. But that moving left needs to be a very slow and controlled process. And it applies to any sort of painting, tilting up and down, any of those sorts of moves one way or the other. They have to be very smooth. And so I'd advise once you've got the basic flying up and down and you're confident with, I want to make the drawing going over there and you know exactly what control sticks to use to make it go in that direction. You want. Try and make a diver in that direction we want and get a nice silky smooth image doing that and you slowly accelerate to make sure that it's not a jerky motion that records Josie video. You make sure that you tilt will turn left nice and gently so that it's a nice smooth transition and not a blurry JIT, wobble to the side or left or right. These are other things that you can practice. They are again, just very basic maneuvers like turning left, flowing forward, going up and down. That's something that nothing hugely complicated. But it's the next step that I'd recommend in terms of learning how to get those maneuvers down pat. Once you're up and you're following, you can get that smooth video. Then you can start getting into the next section which will cover, which is an intermediate flowing maneuvers. And that's when we start stringing together multiple things like flying backwards and controlling the gimbal and all these sorts of different things. I'll cover that in the next section and I'll talk to you then. 25. Section 7 - 4 - Intermediate Flying Maneuvers: Hey guys, and welcome to this next section on intermediate flying maneuvers. So now that we know how to fly up and fly to the left and take off and land and all those sorts of, sort of basic maneuvers want to get into the more intermediate staph, which is generally are they using two separate control and simultaneously, we're using one of the controls. Sticks bought going in multiple directions. So not just flying forward or flying backwards, but flying forward and left or something like that. So these are a bit more intermediate moves. The economy to master them in order to really get the most out of taking good photos and videos. There are automatic modes which we'll cover later on, but it is always good to be out how those manual shots as well because the alcohol, frankly a little bit quicker and sometimes when you're flying and you'll, you might not have a huge amount of bacteria your app on Saw. You need to get that video really quickly. You just want to do it manually sort of thing because it can be quick and facilities certain scenarios. So to begin with, you want to go through one of the most basic ones, which is flying up or down and flying forward or backwards at the same time. Sorry. As you can see here, flying forward and up. Looks pretty decent and standard. And it's a pretty simple you're just using the rot stick to fly forward and the left stick to fly up. And as I said, you can do this either way. You can fly forwards or backwards and up and down. And you can do any combination of the four of them. But you get this pretty nice effect. And it's a very simple first sort of intermediate move that's using two sticks. And again, you want to make sure that you're controlling both of them in terms of a nice smooth and not jerky motion if you're just doing it for fun, that's not too much of an issue, but for photography and videography, it's important to sort of practice that sort of stuff. I'll explain more on that later. Next, we have flying up or down whilst actually rotating or pivoting the drawing. Sorry. Again, you want to be flying up or down, but at the same time, you want to be pivoting. So this actually uses two different sections of the same sticks to separate sticks. It's just one stupid you're using. If you're wanting to fly site up and sort of pivoting around to the left. You'll want to fly up and then push to the left a little bit as well. If for some people they find it harder to coordinate two different sticks at the same time. And they find it really easy to do that sort of thing. For other people, it can be difficult to really get it. There's a bit of resistance on the actual sticks themselves, so it can be difficult to sort of keep it held in place to get that smooth sort of rising up and pivoting motion, like you can see here. Whichever one that you find easier is obviously your preference, but that's one of the other intermediate shots. Are you again? Now, whilst you can fly up and pivot the drawing, you can also fly forward and turn the drawing left or right. To flag forwards, you'll fly backwards. You can use your rods state can fly backwards or forwards. And again, you want to be flying left or right. Sorry, just like we're using one sticking to directions for the previous one. Again, we're using one stick the two directions that this one, sorry, you want to fly up and turn to the left and you go like that. If you want to fly up and turn to the rot, you go like that. Now, as I said, they're not the most complicated matters, but just a little bit sort of intermediate there the more complicated than just flying forward, but they're not some super-complicated active track taught thing that we'll be covering later. Finally, one of the other good ones that you can practice is striping left or right whilst actually pivoting. And this is probably getting to the one of the most complicated ones. Sorry, ideal striping left or right. You want to use your rods stick to strike left or right. And then you want to essentially pivot the drawing using the left stick in the opposite direction so you're striking lift, you want to be pivoting rod. And this sort of moves into almost an orbit mode or a point of interest taught mode. If you do it correctly and can get the sort of proportions and how much you'll pressing each of the sticks, correct. But after you've finished practicing all those sorts of moves, it's good to sort of basically just practice some more, as I said, practices one of the things that will get you the best and quickest, just have a regular schedule, go out after work HTML something for one battery or two batteries with the flying. And you'll find that by practicing these moves as well as the basic moods and just trying to make it short, make sure that the video that's produced is nice and smooth as well. You'll find your skills will ramp up quite quickly. Now, after you've got those for the intermediate style moves down pat and you can do them in there on us and smarter than you can jump in and out of each one of them quite quickly. You want to get into actually using the gimbal controlling node joins gimbal. I spoke about this a bit before in terms of which scroll wheel actually controls up. So I can add in the controller section, but I'll be covering it again in the next section on photography and videography and sort of the specifics behind it and what you will need to do to get that really nice, good video that a lot of people want. That now, I just wanted to go over the actual controls themselves because there's a different couple of different combinations that you can get. So obviously the very first one is just using the top-left scroll wheel on your controller for either the spark medic or Phantom, they all have it in the same spot on the top-left. And all you need to do is just scroll up and down as you would imagine. And this will tilt the gimbal up and down. A second way to control it is to actually use your phone. As you can see here, all you have to do is tap and hold your finger on the screen and then pull it up and down a little bit to tilt the gimbal. For the spot earners, There's actually a couple of other ways as well. If you don't have the actual controller, I'll just say the bar, the fly more combo for the spot you'd hit the control over. If you just bought separately, you'll get it. But if you're darn time for control one at all, and all you've got is your actual phone. You can also use the touch buttons on the side where you have little scroll wheel just near the camera button here. All you have to do is press on the arrows and not all tilted up and down as well. And you can also still use the tap and hold method, as I mentioned before. The third and final line, probably the easiest way for the Spock owners is you can actually hit the tilt enabled button in the top right-hand corner as shown here. What that will do is enable your phone's accelerometer. So when you actually tilt your phone up and down like this, the accelerometer inside your phone detects that motion and it will translate that to pushing the gimbal up or down so you can tilt it down in the gimbal will go to tilt it up and the gimbal. Now that you know exactly how to move to gimbal up and down, we can get into combining the gimbal controls with those basic moves and those other intermediate moves that we speaking before. Now, as I said, I'll speak about this a little more in the next section of photography and videography. But the main thing is you want to make sure when you controlling it inhibits, not jerky, that it's really smooth and also a very slow. If you're having trouble with this and you're making videos and it's all jerky me just, you can't control it for whatever reason. It's just too sensitive, which I do have a bit of problem with even myself after all this time. You can actually decrease the sensitivity is a handy tip to note. If you go into the Settings and go into gimbal settings, then gimbal advanced settings that's shown here. You can make it a bit less sensitive by just turning those dollars damage. Once you've actually, maybe you have turned it in and now you can master that going up and down smoothly. You can start to combine it with those other basic and intermediate shorts. As I said, you can maybe fly forward whilst tilting the gimbal up and get some good shots like that. Or you can perhaps fly forward and turning left as well, wall spring the gimbal up. You can't add two or three types of things in there. And that's probably one of the most complicated things that you'll do manually speaking in terms of doing two control sticks and the gameboard because it's just a multiple hearings, It's hard to coordinate all those sorts of things that are much more advanced sort of shots of flying maneuvers and stuff that you can do with a drone. But the reason I say that, that's generally the most complicated manual thing that you will do is because most of those other complicated shots are actually covered by the DJI intelligent flop modes, which is what we'll be covering next. I'll talk to you then in the advanced following section. 26. Section 8 - 1 - Intelligent Flight Modes: Now that's getting to the intelligent flat mode, sorry, on all digital drawings and the DJI go for application, have a huge array of intelligent flight modes is what they call them. These are those just automatic modes here. Press a button and won't get a fantastic orbit shot or something like that for you. Because different drawings were released at different times, they have primarily relates the phantom drawings and then later the magic and then the spark and all those sorts of things. Different drawings get released at different times. They also have different functionalities at different senses that have different processing power. And I have different sort of levels of record ability on their actual cameras themselves. So there's different modes for different drawings and I'll cover all of them. But basically just be aware that if you have a spot, you may not be able to do some of the modes that say The Phantom four per dozen phosphorus or remain. There's even some modes that are on the spot that actually on the phantom full Pro, even though the fandom for pro is much more expensive. This also comes from the fact that it's all develop new mode over time. So they might have released all three of those drawings already. Obviously, It's still developing new modes and they can put those mode back into those old drawings and give you sort of new functionality by the software updates that DJI are always, constantly doing. So I apologize if there's a new mode that's come out since I've done this course and it's not covered here, I can only cover what's currently available. They didn't release entirely new modes all that often, but I'm sure they will in the future. To access these intelligent flat modes, you need to go to the intelligent flat mode menu. And you do that by just tapping on the little button in the bottom left-hand corner, as you can see here, that has the controller icon. Then a menu will pop up with all your different options of the different flat modes that you have. Now to begin with, to make this easier for you, I'm going to cut them all up into different sections surrounded him, just go through them one-by-one and they'd be bore you to death. I've actually gone through them all already, sorted them into categories that I think these are the ones that are fantastic, That's awesome that you really do want to try. Definitely try first. We'll be covering them first. Then there's a different section of ones. They told her flat modes that they're pretty good. Diet had that place. And you may want to give them a try if you get bored with the other ones, but they're obviously not as good as the awesome first ones. And then you've got the sort of back of the pack kind of one's the modes that are a bit old. Maybe they've been superseded by other more advanced ones that they've released recently. Or maybe they just really, really specific use cases that not many people really have a useful, sorry, that'll be in the three different sections. And then through each different section or Kaaba, each actual intelligent flight mode individually throughout those sections. Sorry. Before we get into that, I just wanted to give you a quick overview of what you're drawing has in terms of what intelligent flop mode is available to you. Here. As you can see, the Spock has the quick shot, active tract tap, fly, tripod and gesture mode. The medic Pro has a few more with a quick short gesture, active track type, fly, tripod, cinematic mode, terrain following point of interest, following me waypoints harmless, and course Lock mode. Finally, the phantom for Pro has very similar to the metric, but it has a few extras. You got the drawer, the gesture, active, track, tap, fly, tripod, terrain fall our point of interest following the white points, hard naught, and course not committed. They're all the different modes for all the different drawings in a there. Which one, which mode you're drawing has? Let's actually head on outside and do some demonstrations of what it looks like on the controllers to control each of the motor to cabinet, set them up and get them going. And also what the result is of one set of footage you actually get out of each of them and I'll talk to you. 27. Section 8 - 2 - 1 - Awesome Flight Modes You Really Should Use - QuickShot Mode: Hey, welcome to this section on the Folsom flat motifs that you should really be using. As I said, these are the sort of main potatoes, the capital of modes that I would highly suggest you go out and try first because they are fantastic. And I do give really great sort of cinematic results and even ridiculously easy for beginners to use. So this is why I'm suggesting them to you as some of the first modes for you to try because they ought easy and they do get some of the best results. The very first one I'm suggesting is the Quick Shop mode. This is available on the spot and the anodic only, as I said before, even though the offender and full Pro is the top of their range will consumer-facing anyway, top of the orange, most expensive during the half, it still doesn't have all of the modes that some of the other drawings halves. This is only on the spot. And the method. What it actually does is it's made up of three different sub modes and each of these modes, so they've pulled the drawing away in a different sort of why bought record a short film that you can then essentially automatically share it to social media. Wherever you want to share it to. What it does is in certain cases it might skyrocket up online, spin around a lot, this simply go back. But in each case, when you record the video, for example, if you're using metric per, it'll record it in the usual for k footage that you're wanting to record it. But after you finish recording it, it will automatically cut the video, add music to it, and speed it up in certain places. And basically just make a really nice video for you to export and share straightaway. So you don't have to do any video editing or put it into a different apple, pull it off the drawing and edited in Final Cut Pro or any of that sort of junk you can just fly with your father and had the movie be automatically created and then just clicked and share it to wherever you want. One thing is that even though records it in full for K for the Maverick and tenant to pay for the spot. It will only produce the video and 720 HD quality. But that being said, let's go into the three different subgroups. The first mode is the droning mode. So what this does is it essentially flies up and backwards instead of a non-square V0 short for whatever the subject is, usually your whatever background is Surin in view. As you can see here, you first enter into the intelligent flat mode and actually choose to quick sharp mode. Once you have your subject in view and tap on, then it will start to actively track that subject. And here you can sort of move around a bit if you want to line up the shot. It'll didn't come up with a brief description about the mode that you're in. As you can see, this is the journey mode. Then we need to do is hit go and press Okay to the warning that pumps up. Obviously, you want to make sure it's in a nice big area. It'll count down from three and then start the automatic mode. And when you have to do is simply press the stop button on the left at anytime if you want to stop it. And that's pretty much it. You'll get a fantastic shot of the drawing, pulling up and pulling away. You don't have to even have the control I email hand and do it all itself. So you can maybe stop the mode and the controller down and standing in front of your friend or your partner or something like that and have the drone dual. This fantastic work for you. As you can see from the results at wholesale, it looks quite good. And this is the actual result that you saved from the automatically created movie as well. The next mode we have is the helix mode. And what this does is similar to the Joining mode where it flies back and upwards away from you, keeping you in view. The helix might simply does that whilst also orbiting around you. And this is really good if you've got not just a view that's beautiful, but a view that's all around. Maybe you know what, Just stay behind an honest man, but maybe there's a fantastic River in front of you or something like that. You want to capture both of them. So you have the drawing, go all the way around and show the full 360 degree views that you as a person have. Once again, you select it from the intelligent flight mode menu. And after you have chosen the helix one, you can go into and say a little description about, again, what this mode is and how it will look. Press Okay to dismiss it and hit the button. And after the three seconds count down, it will start spiraling around you and flying up and backwards whilst keeping you in view. So pretty complicated shop to do it if you were to do it manually, but it looks pretty good as well. And as I said, being an automatic mode, you can just put the control is down. You can either hit the stop button on the left again or just white for the mode to finish itself. It gives it a fantastic view of all your surroundings and nothing looks quite great, especially with the sped-up version of the, the app automatically produces at the end, as you can see here. Next we have the rocket mode, which is a little bit different to the other ones. Whereas the other ones were sort of flying backwards and upward, spiraling, spiraling around or something like that. This one's a bit different. The drawing simply just flies straight up like a rocket. Obviously, it's where the name comes from. While it's doing this, the gimbal tilt down slowly. So as it's going you and view, it flies up and tilts down, giving you a bird's eye view as it gets higher and higher. To enable this, you go into the intelligent plot node again. You select the quick shots mode and just as a previous two modes, you select your subject to track, make sure it's tracking. Hit the guard button and white for the countdown. After the drawing goes October, about 50 meters, which is about 150 feet, it'll automatically stop the mode and create that really knows automatic film for you that you can. It often share. And I think it looks quite good, especially as I said in that speeding up of the film editor. Then finally we have the circle mode which is available for the Spock, are linked and it's essentially like a stand-in for the point of interest mode. So this is another intelligent flat mode that we'll be covering in a bit, but the Spock and doesn't have the point of interests mode. So I think that I put this circle mode into kind of cava Florida, very, very similar to it. And essentially it just circles around your object, keeping them in track as you would for the point of interest motor. All of these minds. Really fantastic to use, if you will, on the edge of a cliff or wanting to chart, as I said, some fantastic surrounding scenery. And you want to actually be in the shot as well. You don't want to be holding the controller instead of during this whilst you actually get the actual video for it. And also we don't have the skills, if you're a beginner to actually do some of the more complicated moves. They automatically do this for you and even produce unless video for. Next, we'll move on to the active track mode. 28. Section 8 - 2 - 2 - Awesome Flight Modes You Really Should Use - ActiveTrack Mode: Now we're into the Active Track mode. And this is probably one of the best modes. It's one of my favorite. It's also available for all of the terms at Spock Medicare and the four-part older than get to use it, which is fantastic as I said, because it is probably one of the best moments, especially when you add in the orbiting part of it of the active truck, which all get to in a minute. The Active Track mode one and actually does is it uses the onboard AI and object recognition to actually track certain subjects. So previously in the past, before I became big as it is now, the ability to do that kind of neural processing on the actual burden. They used to actually track drones via GPS. So if you wanted to track something, say you as a subject, they wouldn't actually track that you as a subject that would track the controller that you're holding or maybe other drawings data with sort of GPS bands or something like that. And the drug will lock onto that GPS location and track that GPS location. But with this new app to track version, what did actually does is takes the image that the Juren sees from its camera and actually identifies the subject. Can be any topic or subject to, can be you as a person. It can be a dog and can be a car or a person snowboarding or whatever it might be. And it actually basically locks onto that subject, for instance, a person, and keeps them in the center of the screen. So if the person starts going to the left, the drawing will go to the left and actually keep that person in the center of the screen. That's what active truck does. It also has a pretty fantastic orbit mode, which is little slider down the bottom or show in a minute. And this normally keeps the person or the object in the center of the camera, then orbits the actual drawing, a random, this can give some really fantastic cinematic result. One of my favorite ones to do is basically set it all up so that I don't use this outbreak, but it is the actual subject that it's doing the object tracking on. And then hop back in the car and maybe you have someone else drive the car. Obviously, they're very safe location or on a freeway or a highway with other cause, maybe Dan, quiet dirt road or something like that. You can actually have to draw an orbit around the call while the car goes off and wallets whole kicked in frame, that just looks fantastic. One downside to active truck mode is that depending on how close or far away you are from the person or the object that can sometimes sort of creep at our view. So to make sure that it's keeping it in view, obviously it has to pan and tilt the camera around and stuff, but they didn't want to set it up so that it's doing it all jerky and too quickly. So there's a maximum speed that it will actually pay in the camera while still keeping it nice and smooth. Now, that painting speed isn't a hugely fast speed, if you will, running really quickly or maybe you just jump out of frame a bit too quickly. It'll lose the object tracking and it'll stop the mode. And obviously things will start. One way to mitigate this a little bit as to actually fly up higher and further away. Because when you're further away, you're writing and you're viewing from further away, it's going to take more running and quicker running to get out of saying quick up, the drawing can actually keep up with it a little better. That's a way to sort of mitigate the problem a little bit. But the further away you want to list your actually see all of the subject. Usually when you're doing an object or inactive track of a subject, you want to actually see them person to call the dog the snowboard or whatever it is you want to get nice and close and then track them as they move sort of thing. But obviously you can't be flying pseudo close to anything because I'll just jump out of frame too quickly, or it might be a little dangerous. But you've got to find that balance between being too close and personal the object. So if goes too quick and goes out of frame too quickly or too far away, and when you get the subject in front of minutes, you get the shot, but you can't really see the subject to whelks this so far away. That's one minus downside of the Active Track mode. But that being said, it's still a fantastic bird than I'd highly recommend you try to use this mode. You start by selecting the intelligent font menu, obviously again, and you obviously choose the Active Track mode. Then once you've got this up, you'll need to find yourself a subject to film. In this case were found something that who's a really, really good boy. And you will then draw a box around that subject. So this lets the drone know what to actually lock onto and what the subject use will also give you a big green girl button that you can then press. So once you've pressed this and started, the subject moves around from the drum will automatically keep it in view with nice smooth camera emotion, as I said before, unless it goes out of the, sorry, you'll also notice that there's an extra controls will pop up on the screen once it actually starts. Underneath is the orbiting slaughter, which I was talking about before. This will make the drawing normally they track your subject as it moves, but it will also orbit Miranda to getting it. Really notice the cinematic shot, which I think you'll agree looks fantastic. Then on the right is the speed controls, which obviously control the maximum speed of the actual drone. And do also note that by default it's in meters per second, not kilometers or miles per hour or something like that as meters per second. Active track also has three sub modes that are all quite similar, but do, do slightly different things. You've got the trace mode, which is the default active truck in this distracts the object and keeps it in frame. You can also control the join and move it around a little bit, but be careful of taking the subject out of frame. The periphery. This trucks, the subject bought locks the drone to only being able to move left or right. So producers clips similar to target ads where they'll have the car and the car was driving on the road and the drawing of the camera man, whoever it is is dying alone in profile with that cost. And maybe it's another car next to the original car and they both drive alone. Getting footage like that produces something similar to that. Finally, there's the spotlight mode is very similar to the trace mode. However, you don't have as much control over the drawing. It's sort of limits you a little bit, but it does make it easier to get those sort of sweeping shots if things while they move. One final thing when talking about Active Track, and it is a very important thing. I did cover a little bit in the safety section, but just sort of give you a bit of a reminder. Active track is one of the big sections that people can crush the drones in because there'll be, perhaps they'll have the subject and they'll have to drawing up in the air and the subject's moving forward. A lot of subjects move forward, but that means you are drawing left to stop flying backwards. And although you're drawing like the spark or a phantom, the magnetic might have frontal forward facing object avoidance, which will stop it from running into things. And modern have any ink on the fact that probably doesn't know unless you're using the Phantom four per means is that as it's flying backwards, it can stop flying into trees or branches or PAL on o number of things. So just to be careful and mindful when you're doing active track that you asked him sort of keeping an eye on the drawing. You'll probably be looking at the subject, but keep an eye out for things that are behind it and obviously stop walking forward. If you say that it's about to money to somebody, that's the active truckload. 29. Section 8 - 2 - 3 - Awesome Flight Modes You Really Should Use - Waypoints Mode: Next up we've got the white points mode, and this is another really, really good mode. It is only available for the medic per hour and the phantom full series. Sorry if you've got the Spark, unfortunately the micelle and this bump, you don't have all the modes that either have said it's not all bad. Now the white points mode is essentially a way of pretty setting up locations for your drawing to fly through and making sure that when it does fly through those locations, it gets a nice sort of smooth transition between those two. So it's not only good for just quickly being able to run through a spot and flawed here to here to there, and getting our smooth footage of it. But it's also a handy types of running a business or review, you know, the shop that you're gonna get beforehand. And you can actually go to that location and you can actually garden that rotation, set-up the white points and actually save it as a sort of a mission that you can actually fly later on. So perhaps the next time when you've got your client on site or something like that, or maybe a wedding or whatever the event might be. Well, you have to do is broke off the salt that you're drawing out and say, fly that mission. To get this working, you obviously want to first have you join up in the air and choose that intelligent plot menu. From there, you select the white point setting of it. And to begin with, you simply fly to your first white point. Sorry. Once you did, you use the C1 and C2 buttons on the back of your controllers. That's these buttons here on the controller. I say one and say two, sorry, that's the front and one. From here. I use to add or remove white points. So the C1 button, which is on the left, is used to add. The C2 button on the right is used to delete. So essentially you keep flying to the different white points and adding them using the same one button. Once you've gone through. And I may be three or four different waypoints that you want to fly to. You want to hit that done button in the bottom right-hand corner. Once you've done that, it'll pop up asking you to confirm the return to harm altitude. And you want to make sure that it's set appropriately feel area that has made big trees in the way or anything. You can also look at the map and see what top of wrap or mission you've designed. And once you're happy with it all, you hit the apply button and it will upload the white points to the actual drawing itself. When you stop to run the actual mission, the drawing will fly to the first white point automatically and then begin. While it's doing a textual mission that's flying a random, smoothly transitioning from one endpoint to the other with a camera, you can actually control the drawing speed or the speed bar on the side. You can also have sort of pause and resume the missions, as well as hide the information section that black area on the Russian side so you can get a bit better, sort of viewed as it's flying the mission. As I said, it will ease into and out of the various white points, creating a nice smooth transition between them. And the results is video footage looks really good and professional and you can also replicate as well. If perhaps the lighting wasn't fantastic to finish time, you might want to wait a bit longer until the sunsets a little more and then re-run the mission. Sorry, it's very handy. Top of intelligent flight mode to have. Once it gets to the end white point, it will just stop and hover in place. White points are great for flying around automatically when there's a few objects that you want to avoid. Maybe there's a big tree in the way or something like that. So, you know that you want to or from the first white point and then fly forward and then fly around this big giant tree that's usually in the white Pepsi telling, do that in say like an old AT mode or something to a point of interest, murder or something like that, enables you to get that bit more control over the actual tutorial itself. And as you can see, you get some pretty fantastic results as well. So that's the whiteboards mode. 30. Section 8 - 2 - 4 - Awesome Flight Modes You Really Should Use - Point Of Interest Mode: Next up, we have the point of interest murder, PR y murder. This is available again on the maverick and the center for pro, Not on the Sparks that, as I didn't say, you've got that quick shot mode with circular married you can kind of approximately this morning with the point of interest mode is essentially where you have a single point of interest might be a tree or a car, a person, whatever you like day someone play equipment, for instance, and you want the drawing to essentially orbit around it like it is a point of interest. So to begin with, you obviously get the dried up and flying and then select the intelligent flopped many. From there you choose point of interest mind, and after that you should fly to the point above the object, whatever it is that you want to actually film. So you want to fly directly over that object, and it also helps if you point the camera directly dance. Obviously, you want to be an awesome high for this mode as well, but it helps if you point the camera directly down so you can see what's directly under the drone and so you can line it up nice and precisely next. After you've confirmed that you'll fly some distance away from that point of interest on that subject that you wanted to film and then you want to start the market. So this app well, Apple will let me know about how to control the drone. When it's in the point of interest mode and all that sort of stuff. You can have a look at that and then he don't cave. Once you get okay, it'll stop actually flying. So once it's started, or between around the actual point of interest, you can use it controls to maybe increase or decrease the speed at which it's actually flying. You don't want to do the actual orbiting off the point of interest too quickly as it kind of ruins the cinematic feel of the shop. Bolos the video a little bit of going too fast. Also be going to slower from time to get a bit boring. As you know, you might find that I try and stay around the sort of 3 to 4 meters per second mark. This kind of gives a good speech. You know enough to actually make it all blurry or anything like that will make people to motion sickness. But it's also not so slowly that it's boring. And you just want to get to the next section so you can even actually do another thing with the point of interest. More, which a lot of people don't realize, is that once you actually start getting going and it's actually orbiting the object, whatever Behn's case a tree you can actually give it and turn the drone completely around 1 80 look in the opposite direction to the actual point of interest. So once you're actually orbiting, if you use your left stick to actually pivot the drone on the spot while it's orbiting, pivot withdrawing 180 degrees C. Facing away from the object that your were originally filming is the port of interest. And this way you can actually say, Look at the scenery that's all around you, and the drone itself will take care of that flying nice and smoothly at a constant speed for you while you can, you know, maybe increase the gimbal up or down, and you're only having to control this one sort of scroll wheels or this one home, you know, dimension of moving the gimbal up and down in order to get this really fantastic shot, which would otherwise take a fair bit of manual effort to actually get. That's a bit of a different way that you can use the point of interest murdered on. I don't think too many people do. You utilize that version off, but it is very handy distance no, and that's the point of interest. 31. Section 8 - 2 - 5 - Awesome Flight Modes You Really Should Use - Gesture Mode: Next up we have gesture mode. Now, this is actually a little bit different depending on which during have caught this into two sub sections. The first is for the nomadic per hour and the phantom for pro. They generally just have one. Why did you use the gesture section, which is just active tract and to take a photo with the Spark, it actually has multiple different modes like palm launch and gesture, palm control and all these sorts of things that don't go into it a little bit. But for now we're just looking at the actual medic PR and the Phantom four per the gesture control, what is meant to be is that if you want to get shot of yourself or perhaps spouse or maybe a group of people or whatever it might be. But you don't want to actually have the control in your hand while you're typing a photo of your looking like this sort of thing. Just your motor is very handy for it. Sorry. Basically what it does is enables you to set the drawing to track you as the subject, similar to how it works, an active truck then enables you to do a certain gesture which tells the drawing intellectually type of heart. It'll take a photo of you and obviously you won't have the actual control in your hand. Sorry, this is quite a really nice mode to have. However, it's kind of at the bottom of this list because they have been sort of reports that it's been a bit of Phoenix, especially on the spot as well. But it doesn't obviously rely on object recognition. You're making certain gestures, whatever they might be. And it's got to be nice and clean so that I actually see. One thing is you've got to actually be doing them facing towards the drawings or actual camera, if you know the drawing is pointing this way and you're trying to do gestures. It's obviously not going to do when he thinks the colors we see you. Yellow thing is that a lot of people don't realize is gonna be a decent amount of LOT this to happen. So whilst it doesn't have to be in the middle of the diet, kind of blinding sunlight or anything. If you're trying to do these gestures and the sun's setting and it's dusk and it's not really very broad. It's a lot harder for the camera to sort of distinguish you as the subject. There's not as much lot going into its camera. It's a bit harder for it to do that object recognition on you. If you are having troubles with the gesture mode and getting it to recognize all the gestures and all that sort of stuff. Try it about maybe two or three hours before sunset or something like that. But there's still a good amount of lot. And make sure that there is not a particularly complicated background behind you. Try and make it easy for the drawing to recognize you as a subject and recognize the gestures that you are showing it. So that's one of the main suggestions. Or if you're having trouble with the gesture, learn. As I said, start with regardless through how to use the gesture mode on the metric per and the fandom for Pro. So I stopped with your drone up in the air. Select the intelligent flat menu and select the gestures mode from the actual many. You want to make sure that it's obviously. And you also want to make sure that you're at least two meters off the ground or 6.5 feet off the ground. Once you've selected the gesture mode, it'll give you a brief tutorial pop-up telling you how to use it, which you can sort of look at and take notes on types mixed. You can either select the subject on the screen as you would inactive track or actually use the Y arm gesture, as you can see here to make the drawing lock onto you with active track. Now from here, once it's locked onto you, it'll just follow you around automatically, just like we would with active track. So you can actually put the controller down and walk over to where you want to take the shot. Once you where you'll want to be to take the photo, simply make a box gesture with your hand and the drug. And it should recognize that just Jeff flash It's Ellie days a couple of times to confirm that it's senior gesture. And then it will take a photo after about three seconds of waiting. Now it's really good for getting sort of interesting photos of you and other people unit without you actually holding the controller. As I said, as I mentioned, sometimes this doesn't work too well. So it's good if you really want a picture of yourself without the control law. A good way to get around this is to actually use interval Merv, which we'll speak about later on. It essentially takes a photo every two or five or ten seconds. So similar to this sort of gesture mode, you can have it set up the photo that you want. Turn on the interval mode and we'll start taking photos. And obviously you'll have the controller in your hand at that point. But considering because it's taken photos every five seconds, you can take a photo with you with a control. Put the controller down. Then set up the photo that you do want and then it will continue taking those photos until you tell it not to. Now let's have a talk about the actual spot. As I said, it's very different ingestion mode to what the medic Pro Thin for pro is. That Spock actually it has a whole bunch of sub modes inside It's gesture mode. These include things like the palm takeoff from the palm landing, as well as various other gestures that you can have. Now, before you can use any of these sorts of modes, you actually have to go into the Settings menu. You have to go into visual navigation settings and turn on enable advanced gesture control, as you can see here. Now, first, you can use palm launch, which is what you can actually use to have the drawer and take off from the palm of your hand. And this is a very common way that a lot of people use this block to take off. You can obviously put it on the grant or use your phone to take off, but it's a different way of very quick way. If you just wanted to get a quick self picture or something like that, rather than having to pull out your phone and all that, you can simply do it all by the drugs. To begin with, you obviously typed the drying out and put it in your hand. You want to first turn on the drawing as per normal with the button on the back. I'd advise you to set up boot up for about five or ten seconds just to make sure that it's in, got all of its senses ticked off. It's gone through old self diagnostics and all that sort of stuff. Now the thing is make sure that the camera is actually facing towards you. You don't want to have the camera facing away because it just won't work obviously. Now once you've actually got the drawing turned on and it's facing, you double-tap the battery button at the back, which will begin the launch sacred. So this Bach were flashes LEDs and then type off from your hand, as you can see here. Next gesture is called palm control, which is where you can actually control the drawing simply by using your hand itself. So again, these are all things that you don't need your phone or you control a for you can just take off and actually move the jaw it around with your palm. To begin with, make sure that the joining is facing you and you're facing the drawings actually camera, otherwise it just won't work. This is all done via object recognition, so it obviously needs to see you to recognize you as the object. You want to place your palm and face it towards the actual camera of the journal itself. And that spot should flush its lights to acknowledge that it's actually recognize your palm. And it's recognized that it's trapping. The LED is on the actual drawing itself are actually pretty self-explanatory once you know what they are, That's all the red, yellow, or green and similar to traffic lots you've got red is not following you and not tracking you. Orange is, I'm walking around and green these old file. Once it's green and it's actually locked onto your position and it's actually tracking your pump. You can actually move the Journal ran as you would as if you were holding onto it with a selfie stick or a selfie pole or something like that. Similar to kind of like using the force in Star Wars or something like that. That's a pretty neat trick, but can get a little slow and cumbersome. But it is glyph, as I said, those quick tones where you just want to launch, control the drawing and get a fight over that. Having to stuff around with the phone or the remote controller. You can walk the jarring forward or backwards simply by continuing to hold your hand up and walking forward or walking backwards, you can merger end to Assad and full 360 degrees circle. You can also do waving gesture, which will actually send the drawing backwards and essentially make it fly back quite quickly. And opposite a bit as well. So either you're actually doing this gesture, obviously make sure there's nothing behind it, like a trail or something like that. But by doing this, it is a little bit tricky as well. Some people, when they actually white, they might just do like this where I'll actually just wave their hand a fan of It's a lot more easier to do it or recognizes that a lot better. He'd be kind of why of your entire from like your elbow up. So you want to do this kind of windscreen wiper lotion. Very, very obvious. So that it's not simply to the drawing when it's doing that tracking that it is that just so that you're telling it to fly backwards and go away. Essentially, if you'd like to adjourn to actively track you, just like with the medic Pro and the fandom for PR, you can use that same y just your way. You're putting your arms up in a y symbol to get the drug to lock onto and to stop active tracking you as per normal. You can even use the same bulks gesture as well to get the joint to take a photo of you as well so you can have it actively tracked, you get into your position or whatever and do that gesture to have it take a photo. If the drone is quite far away and they've done that goodbye gesturing, that's foreign rock back and you want to actually bring it back to you, maybe to land, for instance, you can do the backend gesture, which is where you actually, instead of putting his hands up and over Y, simply lecture, you just put them straight up like this model and put your hands up nice and high and just hold still for a little bit. The drawing will recognize the gesture and come flowing toward you and stop if you use at once, It's actually stopped in front of you and you want to actually land it again. You can do the palm landing gesture, which is when you actually place your hand just slightly underneath the actual drawing itself and it will recognize the palm and just slowly land onto the actual palm. Do note, however, it does say palm landing bought a fan that it generally actually lanes more on the fingers of your hand rather than the actual palm, palm of your hand. This often that it works very well. And just be careful not to drop, but just be aware that it's going to be landing on that palm of your hand is posted that pod so that can freak people out a little bit for the first time they're expecting the drawing to sort of land right there, but actually sort of wins here and they might think it's about to fall off or something. So just be aware of it for the first time that you do it. That's all the gesture commands for the actual Spock navigate part. Infinitum for PR. Obviously the Spock has a lot more gestures to it. Promoted and sold as being a drawing that you can just whip out of your pocket and go and use without actually having a control law. Obviously, it doesn't sell with the controller and they're like to advertise that you don't even need your phone to use it. You can use old gestures to launch the drone position that wherever you want, have a track you and take photos and dual those sorts of things which you can indeed dirt for the magnetic per hour and the fandom full PR gesture is it does work reasonably well. As I said, you've got to make sure that it has proper lot to actually see you and that you're doing the commands nausea and clearly as well. But it does work reasonably well. I find that the interval timing shots is also a very good solution, as I said, for when it's perhaps very dark well, it's a complicated background, whatever reason it's not working particularly well, but you still want that shorter view without the actual controller in it. You can use the interval times. That's all of the various different modes that I've considered. Really awesome ones that you should definitely go ahead and draw. Next, we get into the sort of stealing good minds bought, not as fantastic as things like point of interest or gestural way points. Total. 32. Section 8 - 3 - 1 - Flight Modes That Are Pretty Good - Tripod Mode: Welcome to this section on flat modes that are pretty good. In this section I want to cover some of the other modes that they are still quite good mode to use and to have on hand. However, you might not find that you use them as often as the other really awesome birds that I spoke about before. Now they're still good to just know about in the back of the head just in case you ever do get into that situation or that rare scenario where you got. But I would really like to use troppo mode and because you know about it, you can actually dive into that menu and go and use it. To begin with, we do have tripod mode, which is originally brought out to be something to kind of stabilize your drawing, to obviously, essentially make it like it is a full-blown camera sitting on a tripod and filming whatever it is. It's available for the spark, the maverick per end, the phantom four-person. Everyone gets to enjoy it, which is always nice to have. And what it essentially does is it's like, what it essentially does is it's like reverse sports mode, which we'll cover in a later section as well. But it basically tones everything down into all the movements, all the controls that you use and throw that and engaging hugely, hugely damped down and made to Beaver really slowly view match the Forward button. And years later we're just accelerate off into the distance and guard 4050 comment as an ale and tripod mode, it's incredibly, incredibly slow. The reason for this is not just to keep the drawing steady and slot fluctuations essentially during move it, but when you do push it that extra big to actually move it, it does it in a nice controlled, smooth fashion so that you get really slow smooth shots. And it is a little bit for beginners in that regard that who don't have the practice into really gently control things forward. Or maybe it's for an experienced shooter who just wants to get really precise with things. They do know how to control things slowly and smoothly, but I wanted to do it even slow and even smoother. And sensitivity of distinct is usually just too high, so they put it into tripod mode and off they go. Now, the other benefit of tripod mode is that it can actually be used for total beginners. So not just beginners who don't know how to smoothly pain or till their camera. But if it's literally the first time that you've picked up a drone, or perhaps you're lending your drone to someone else who's never touched a drug before. And I mean, you know, you're sort of coaching, teaching them and watching out for them. But at the same time, they're the ones in control of the drone and maybe they're a little bit nervous as well, like you might've been to start with. They don't want to crash the expensive drawing of their friend or a family member or anything like that. Putting it into beginner mode almost makes it impossible to crash because as I said, they can match the buttons. All I want making, push it absolutely full tilt forward. And as you can see in this video here, moving around is super slow in chart 40 million. Say, what you're seeing here is may actually mashing the control as it's pushing up, stick as much as possible, really pushing forward as much as possible with as you saw. It's just very, very, very slow movement. That's tripod mode. And there we get into unexplored. 33. Section 8 - 3 - 2 - Flight Modes That Are Pretty Good - Terrain Follow Mode: Now we're getting into terrain following mode. This mode only available on the phantom for PR as well as the medevac Pro. It's not available on the spot. And what this does is if you have a hill or a slope that perhaps you're hiking upwards or something like that. And you want the drawing to follow you up that hill. That's what terrain following ODE is for. Small note just to make sure that you're aware of. It only works when you are anywhere from one to ten meters above the grand won't work any higher than ten meters. So just be aware of that. It's about 33 feet most Americans out there. But to begin with, you obviously select it from the intelligent flat menu. Once it's actually engaged, is designed to sort of say, don't want a gentle slope where you might be hiking up a hill or walking down a path and the drawing is flowing along horizontally. Terrain following mode will automatically increase or decrease the drones height above the ground to keep it at that distance. Also be aware that although it does automatically detect the height of which it is above the grant and will automatically adjust and maintain that height. That's how you set it at five meters and you push forward on your controller and the join and start flying forward. And it'll continue. Keep that altitude at five meters as it goes up. And it will follow the terrain. Obviously, do keep in mind that it doesn't actually use the Active Track mode, which is why it's kind of in this mediums section of where you may or may not use it. Because while that would be really handy for it to follow up the terrain and actively track you. It doesn't unfortunately do that. So just some indicate in mind, it is good to have it automatically track up the terrain part of it, but you still are going to have to manually flying around and manually fly forward as you walk up the hill. That's Troy. And following. 34. Section 8 - 3 - 3 - Flight Modes That Are Pretty Good - TapFly Mode: Next up we have the tap Fly mode. So this is a bit of a different mode to most of the other ones, but it is quite handy to have a can be used for kids and beginners as well as for people who quite competent at flying their jewelry, but just want a bit of automatic flying in one day focus on the camera. So tapply mode is where you actually have the controls up and you're seeing what you're actually saying through the phone and all that sort of stuff. Actually tap on the screen until your drone fly up enough direction, fly down in that direction, or one of those various combinations like that. So it allows you to fly at the drawing simply by tapping on the screen and telling it where you actually want to go. Once it's enabled in the menu, it will give you a horizontal line across the screen which indicates the horizon, as you can see here. Now, innate to tap the screen once, then tap again on the go button to actually start flowing the drug. If you tap above the line, the drone will fly forward in that direction and then also ascend upwards. If you tap and below the horizontal line or horizon line, it will fly forward and descend in that direction. So you can also adjust the speed by using the speed bar on the side. Wouldn't recommend sitting at too high, as I said before, I think around so they're via three to four meters per second. Otherwise, your video footage tends to sort of look a bit rushed and not so smooth, like you would usually want it to be. Just flying forward. It's not too much of a bolded, but as soon as you start moving left or right, you'll get that blurring effect that you don't want. After it starts flying, it will just keep flying in that direction forever, basically until you tap another direction or you hit the stop button on the left to stop the whole taps offline mode. And do also note that it will use its object avoidance to navigate around any objects. If you've got that turned on, however, as always, to keep it all in it as object avoidance isn't a 100% perfect all the time. Tap Fly mode or tap to fly word is really great for giving you that nice smooth footage and allowing you to focus more on the recording side of video rather than flying the drone. As I said, because of this, even advanced sort of uses can use this and get some great results because they can stop my drawing. They can tap flowing in this direction or fly in that direction and slowly paint to the rod or something like that. The drawing and the intelligent flight mode will do all that actual manual flying stuff themselves. And then the advanced user can focus more on what's the better shop to get? Should I increase maybe contrast and brightness or exposure, those sort of more cameras, specific settings as opposed to focusing on the actual flying. So sometimes in very advanced flying modes and all that sort of stuff, you can have one pilot actually piloting the drone and another pilot independently moving the camera random doing a low settings. That's kind of like having that but having the pilot replaced by AI, as is the trend these days. So that's the tap to fly mode, and it is good for both children and beginners. This is how you can have like a four-year-old flyer during you can give them a nice big tablet and have them just stab on the screen basically in random spots in the drawing more smoothly fly in that direction and even avoid objects that they try and tap and flying to a building or something like that. But it can also be useful for those advanced flaw isn't all that sort of stuff as well. Next up, we'll have a look into the drawer node. 35. Section 8 - 3 - 4 - Flight Modes That Are Pretty Good - Draw Mode: All right, so now we're getting into the more sort of nation newer versions of data intelligent flat modes. And this one is on drawer, sorry, drawer is pretty much a brand new intelligent flavanoid that DJI released very recently. Because of that, It's only currently available on the phantom full products not available on the medical does Spark they're always updating the software. So you never know unlock Tommy out in a few months or a year or something like that. It depends on processor-intensive and what type of senses are required to actually achieved this mode? Anyway, what the draw mode does is it actually allows you similar to y points to fly a certain path or a predetermined path. Unlike the waypoints married, you don't have to actually go and fly to each mode and press C1 and then Florida the next one and press C1 and you continue on and actually map out your waypoints mission. Manually, drama, and you can actually just press and draw it on. You'll not like this. It's obviously a lot easier than doing it the white points mode. But I will note waypoints mode is still a little bit more powerful than draw. I mean, draw does obviously made things much easier because you just using a GUI to draw our atom. You don't think it takes five seconds, whereas white points takes a lot longer. But with white points, you can actually save missions. And as I was saying before, under the white point section, you can go to a location setup where your white points. Do your shot, get that perfect setup, whatever it is that you want, save that mission and then come back a diet awake a year later and run that mission at, again, maybe at a different time. Maybe when the weddings happening, maybe when there's a business client and times money equal that sort of stuff. So 20 points, it is a bit more technical, but it's also a more powerful doors and food, bit more simpler, quicker and easier to use. So they do have both of them assuming Barth modes are available to you. As I said, the drawing modes are in the, available on the Fed and for products. To get started with actually flying the drawing, you want to fly to your desired altitude. I will note that you do need to be about two meters above the air. For this mode to actually work. That's about 6.6 feet or solely for the Americans had it. But once you're above that altitude and you're in the location, you want to go to the intelligent flat menu and bring up a draw from the menu. Then you tap and hold the green circle with the white arrow in it. And while still holding the icon, you draw out where you want to fly on the screen and then let go. You'll now be able to set your speed using the speed dollars on the side. And you can also choose the sub mode for the aircraft hitting. And there's two different options. Free is where it actually allows you to essentially be free with the camera. So you can rotate the camera left or right. You can spin around in circles, do whatever you want. Your drawing will still fly that pump as you spin around with the camera. For the forward mode, obviously, the camera is locked forward and wherever the drug laws on that, drawing our path is where the camera will be forced to look there the two different markets that you have. Once you've actually chosen which merger want, you can choose your speed and then he'd go and you can adjust the heart of the drawing as it flies forward. You can obviously stop it if you want as well. It is much easier to sort of set up and do this, as I said then the waypoints mode, but they both have their place. That's why this is in this section of it is a bit more limiting. Then white points are white points was higher up the mode that I would prefer you to try because you can get similar results, but a bit more technical and it's got a lot more power in the future as well for you to use, but you can also use draw as a very good mode as well. So that pretty much sums it up for that. Yeah, Pretty good, right? Next we'll come and talk about the modes that are a bit older, maybe conduct outdated, that being superseded by other intelligence slot nodes that have come out. Since I'll talk to you then. 36. Section 8 - 4 - 1 - Flight Modes That Are Old Or Not Very Useful - Home Lock Mode: Alright, so now we're getting into the flat modes that are a bit old or not very useful in themselves. These are sort of flat modes, as I said, that may have been fantastic in the heyday, but have kind of been superseded by other more fancy modes that you have. Nail it to begin with, we'll look at harm walk murder, which is generally speaking, it was a pretty good one for the diet, but it's kind of been superseded by the return to home button. So what homework mode is? It's usually if you're out and you're flying the drone sort of thing, you push the forward button or you push the back button. And it will actually fly the drone forward or backwards, whatever direction the drawing is facing. However, soluble drawing is facing this way. And you're harm point is are there if you want to actually engage, Pardon lock mode. If you would actually fly backwards instead of your drawing flying backwards towards me, it would actually stop flying backwards towards the home. Point, that direction, sorry, hence the sort of Harlem lock nine, it locks onto the harm point. And basically any forward or backward motion will fly you towards or away from the whole point wherever that harm point month. As you can imagine, this is kind of being superseded by the return to home button. That is a lot more simpler than trying to figure out which direction is my drawing facing, left or up or whatever it might. Push the bottom and forget about it. It'll automatically flawed back to you sort of thing. Sorry. I didn't see many people using it. I've certainly never really used it myself. I always just use the return to harden button, although most of the time I don't even use that manually fly the drone back to me because I find it's quicker than waiting for it to go up till it's maybe a 100 meters, return to a higher altitude, then flying all the way back, then coming all the way back down. Just over there. I can quickly fly back down. There's no reason to have it go up and down constantly. That's what the homework mode does. You get to it by going into the intelligent flight mode, swapping or for us to this section that obviously has hard work and enabling ahead. Sorry. I wanted to show any footage of it because it's not particularly interesting, but that's what the actual load does. 37. Section 8 - 4 - 2 - Flight Modes That Are Old Or Not Very Useful - Course Lock Mode: After the heart and lock mode, you have the coursework load. And once again, the name is very apparent for this does unlock the homework mode, which locks the drone on to the actual harm point. The course mock mode, as you probably guessed, locks it onto a certain course. Now, when you open the intelligent flat menu and select course Locke from the menu, it will actually one over y, the drawing is facing. So again, imagine the door in his face in this way. It takes that as the course that's now locked onto that course. So if I was to then rotate the drawing and face it towards you, the camera, then fly forward. You would think the joining would flush forward towards you. How has it, because it's in course locked mode, it'll actually fly that way because it is locked onto that course. Sorry. This can be good if you're wanting to do perhaps like a profile shot. Again, like the Active Track mode where you might have a car, two cars side-by-side. And you want to film this way while you're flying that way. And you can get that sort of nice profile shot as you're flying. You don't have to worry that way you flying sort of thing. You can enable this course Lock mode, set that direction as the course, and then turn the camera to face the actual car or the subject wherever you were a film and then just fly forward. Go off towards the course. So again, this is in the sort of outdated box as you've now got active track, which doesn't much better job of multiline to that car, that subject or whatever it is that you want to actually fill. And you don't have to worry about mixing up my flying forwards and it's going this way might confuse some people. The Active Track mode just takes care of it all for you and you don't even have to have the control law on your reason, just let it do its thing, hop in the car and drive off if that's what you really want to do and it will fly this way, track the car and get a smooth footage as well. That's young thing about the active tract that it will actually get that smooth footage. So you're a beginner and you're still not confident with doing those moves or the intermediate or basic moves that we talked about. And doing them smoothly so that you get not too fast, so it's blurry but not too slowly that it's boring or any jerky sort of thing. If you're in this course, mock Moby still manually have to fly the jury. Yes, it'll lock it onto that way so you don't have to think about which direction you're going, but you still have to manually fly. You still have to manually make sure that it's a nice smooth motion. So active track is a much better option in my opinion, which is why this is in the bottom of the barrel. Been that I don't think many people would use or really should be using it to very older mode. And I highly advise you just use active truck instead. So that's what course and lock mode is. If you ever wanted to know. Now we get onto the next one, which is the cinematic mode. 38. Section 8 - 4 - 3 - Flight Modes That Are Old Or Not Very Useful - Follow Me Mode: Now we're up to the following IE mode. This mode is only available in the medic PR and the Phantom four per. Unfortunately the DJI spark misses out again. However, this mode is a bit old, hence why it's in this section. It's kind of been superseded by Active Track. And what following the married does is it actually follows the control law rather than active track, using AI and object recognition to identify an object in view and then track that particular object regardless if it's a person or a car or a dog or whatever it might be. Following the mode locks onto the coordinates of your actually your actual control and follows that wherever the controller goes. Obviously the H have this sort of person cones. If you wanted to say track and get a cool video of your dog, like I showed before. Not really possible to give your dog to control. I don't know. Maybe you could Velcro it to him or something. It's probably a bit main, bought at the same time. The following Android does do things that the Active Track mode can't do. So one scenario is that because it actually tracks the control law, it doesn't actually need to see you as the subject in there to review. If you're flying overhead and you're looking down at the subject posts and maybe it's a car driving through a forest or something like that. Quite often the personal, the car will go underneath some trays or some branches or something like that, something that obstructs the view of the object underneath. And because active track, as I said is said, uses the object recognition when it's obscured underneath that branch or whatever it might be, maybe a roof of a house or something. It loses tracking all of it and we'll stop the mode, the drawing. I'll just hold it there and not do anything. If you're using Follow me married, however, and you've obviously got the controller and the car with you on your person. As you walk through. It will just continue to track the controller and continue on going. So they each have their own cases. In my experience, once again, active truck usually wins out. It's the simple, You-all know, fancier cooler. So it'd be intelligent plot mode that gets the job done more often than not better than the following numeric. But it does have its instances true if you wanted to use it. To begin with, you obviously go into the intelligent flyout menu, choose it from the intelligent flat menu, and then lock onto the actual controller and stop the actual mode itself. Once it's actually stopped going. Do note that in order to actually start it, you have to be above that 10-meter are about 33 feet height. It just weren't allow you to actually stop them or edit or go into the mode itself, but it won't actually stop tracking it and actually moving random till you're involved that 33 feet or ten made a hot, kind of a weird side effect of it is once you've actually started since I started 15 meters and he stopped the mode, you can then actually fly underneath the ten meters. I don't know why they have it there. You can fly underneath the bottom. Just something to know. Once you're sort of flying around and you've got your full learning mode, engaged. And other cool trick that you can do with it. Once again, like the point of interest mode, because they're not tracking an object like active truck. You can actually turn the camera out and face away from whatever it is you're tracking. So you're drawing might be above you and it's tracking your control law and you're walking along the journey is going along with you, but you don't have to have the drawer and looking at you. It doesn't have to be that sort of selfie type of load you can actually have looking at the horizon as you're walking along and sort of pushing the drug alone as you walk with the controller controlling it. Dot-plot. That's another cool feature of the following emerged part. Most of the time it's better to just use the active truck. One other final thing I will advise, just like with the active truck mode, you're talking about something tracking you as the subject or the control law for following the mode as you sort of very forward, the drone is going to be flying backwards most of the time. Do be careful you don't fly into a tree or a building or any other of a 100 different things. So that is the following me mode. 39. Section 8 - 4 - 4 - Flight Modes That Are Old Or Not Very Useful - Cinematic Mode: Now we come to the final intelligent flat mode, which is the cinematic mode. This mode is only available on the medical. It's not available on the spark of The Phantom. I wouldn't worry about it too much, I'll tell you in a minute. But this model is essentially as far as I can tell, almost identical to the tripod mode. So again, it's going to hugely slow down the controls of your drawing. Bank left. It'll bank very slowly lift bank rob a bank of air is highly rod. A small difference to the tripod mode is apparently the cinematic mode really sort of alters the your speed of the actual craft. So this is the sort of twisting and also lighting on the vertical axis. So if that's something you won't current for the cinematic mode, but also greatly increases the braking distance which the chocolate mode does to a little bit as well. Now, as you can say in this video, he pretty much matching and pushing the controllers to the max. And the resulting video is still quite smooth and slow. As such, it's good for when you want to type those smooth videos whilst flying the drone around in any sort of which direction. You don't have to worry too much about am I going to fall stool accelerating too slowly or whatever it might be. You can just tell it to go over there and forced the control is really harshly or other that way you still get that nice smooth shot. Now, as I said, if you don't have nomadic part di for two left out, because you can just use those tripod mode. That tripod mode, as I was saying before, it's near identical. I've used both of them and while they are technically different, it's such a small difference that most people wouldn't even notice it. That's the final intelligent flight mode. Now we're going to go into some slightly other different flashlights. They're not under the Intelligent plot note section, but there's still different flight mode so that you are drawing commute. So I'll talk to you then. 40. Section 8 - 5 - 1 - Other Flight Modes - Sports Modes: Finally, I want to get into the other plot loads, Dale, these are flat modes that automatically fly your drawing for you. So they're not really under the Intelligent flat mode menu there under separate sections. Although that I'm automatically flooded during four years, they are different modes to what you would usually just be flying around in, which is the pay or the positioning mode, sorry, the first one is the sports mode. And this is available on the Spark, maverick prior and fantasy for series. So everybody gets to play with it, which is fantastic Gothic because it is a fun mode to get into and play around width. Now being sports mode, it is obviously going to make things more spotty off. That's gonna make your drawing fly faster. And as you can see here, we've got the top speeds for all the drawings. So the spark will go up 50 kilometers an hour or 31 miles per hour. The medic parole go at 65 kilometers an hour or 40 miles per hour. And the Phantom four will go at 72 kilometers an hour or 45 miles per hour, depending on which one you have. Now, top speed is one thing and it suddenly dawns getting crazy with the sports mode. However, another different part of it, The most people don't realize until I stopped playing around with it, is that sports mode greatly increases the agility and the ascent and descent, sort of spades of everything. So it's not just the top speed that increases when you put it into sports mode. Everything gets spoiled. The essentially the handling of the drawing if you would get some lot sporty and it's very noticeable you can regard from ascending or descending at a relatively controlled Spade to when you're in sports mode, going Quite, quite fast and you can have a lot of fun with them. I think the agility and the saint in decent speed is actually the thing that really contributes to making the sports mode more fun. So that's one thing to keep in mind. The other thing is that with sports mode, obviously you're going faster, which means you're stopping distance is going to greatly increase. So do be aware of this. If you normally fly towards a tree for some reason and slow down and know how far that distance is going to be. We want to make sure that increased TV doing sports mode, because you are going to be growing faster. The critical thing to remember is that the object avoidance systems are disabled. As you can see in this screenshot here, when you enable sports mode, the object avoidance by colon and goes red and he's totally disabled. So do keep that in mind to use sports mode. The very first thing, as I said, you don't go into the intelligent flight modes to access it. This is not an intelligent thought, this is just a different plot mode. And usually what you'll do is click the sports button on your control for the medic fits on the slide for the spot on the front for the phantom series drawings, it's up the top with a little clicking doll is. But before you even do that, if you haven't gone into the settings here and gone into the enable intelligent flight mode and made sure that that's enabled, the actual button on your controller won't work. So if you're madly clicking away trying to get into sports mode and it's not working. That's why you have to go into the settings first and enable it. So once you've gotten to the settings, once you've been able to, once you've got your drawing up in the air and you set it to sports mode, volume control. It will then be in sports minor, I'll tell you obviously, and you'll be you'll be able to stop playing around with it and getting a feel for how much spore here it is. To give you a bit of an idea about just one of the dimensions, the top spade section. Here you can see me flying the drone forward at pretty much at the tops. Beta had the forward stick, so the rods stick absolutely matched to the absolutely. As far as regardless is as fast as the drug and congruent. You can see it's pretty normal. It's not calm. Peice flying forward even though it's as fast as it will go. So if we now go back and run that same shot by duo when the drawing is enabled in sports mode. Now you can sort of say there's quite a bit of a difference. It's going quite a bit faster and it reaches that in pretty, pretty quickly. So as I said, this is only one section of in sports mode, just raw top speed. But in my opinion, the most fun part of it is actually flying around in the extra agility you get from the sports mode. So that's why I would highly recommend having a gallon, but do make sure you're quite confident with adjourn first and the general flying and the basic and the advanced flowing and that sort of stuff. Maybe try some other intelligent flat modes first that are a bit more simpler to begin with. But once you're happy with all that, you know how to control your drone to give a shot. It's lots of fun. Just make sure that you're in an area that hopefully has absolutely nothing around something like a big urban park with just no trees in it or very, very low trees and make sure you're up nice and high. Or maybe a beach is another good area that generally doesn't have a lot of stuff around especially Vietnam wherever the water just makes it a little bit cipher to actually fly. And then you can go crazy and it goes fast as you want. You don't have to worry about your stopping distance increasing impulsively, crashing into something that can ruin him all your fun. That's the sport mode. 41. Section 8 - 5 - 2 - Other Flight Modes - Fixed-Wing Mode: The next other flat nerve is called fixed wing mode, and this is our only available for the metric probe. More show why that I'd have it for the other two drawings. As I said before, perhaps at something to do with the senses of a processing power, or maybe it's just how the actual drawings are physically built in the aerodynamics orbital, whatever the reason is, only on the magic part. But this is, as far as I can tell, mainly meant for fun, maybe a specific use case. But what it essentially does is turns your drawing from being something to pivot on the spot like this instead of in turn left and maybe as it's flying forward turn left like that. To be a fixed wing aircraft or at least seeming like it is a fixed wing aircraft. So that's a little hard to demonstrate. I'll show you a video which will hopefully make it a little clearer later on. But essentially you're getting that sort of airplanes style sort of tilt and turns as opposed to a flat pivoting, which most quadcopters or drones, usually dirt. To start with. This mode is once again, not under the Intelligent plot modes. You go into the settings. Under the remote control settings you want to enable the fixed wing mode toggle as shown here. Once you've done this, you'll have to then get up and store offline the drug so you want to enable it first, then launch or during India and stop flying. And another strange thing about this mode is that you actually have to be flying at about three meters per second, which is about ten kilometers an hour, or about seven miles per hour, Alice, or it won't actually even allow you to enter the mode unless you're flying at speed at that reasonable, decent speed. Now, once you will find at that speed, it will actually pumped you on the screen to say, do you want to into flight mode and price this button to do so. Once you actually stop the mode, it will start to fly the drone as if it was a fixed wing plane, as you can see here. Now, as before, It's a bit hard to explain, but hopefully now you can sort of see what I mean that when you turn left it doesn't pivot, but it actually sort of banks left or banks right, depending on which way you actually go. As far as I can tell, this mode seems to bay just for a bit of fun, to sort of simulate what it would be locked to have your drawing be an airplane or fixed wing plane instead of a quadcopter, which is what it is about the eye. And the other reason I could think of as it may be you're doing a video, Shu told you a warning to capture footage that gives the viewer a sense of being inside an actual plane and not a quadcopter sort of thing. So just another set of strange at the mode that DJI is recently added. A bit of fun, have a play around with it. But that is all the different modes that you have to work with. Now that we've covered all that, I want to go into photography and videography. So join me in the next section where we'll go over how to get the best shots in that nice, silky smooth video that everyone loves watching. I'll talk to you then. 42. Section 9 - 1 - Basic Photo Composition: And welcome to this section on gorgeous photography and videography with your drone. The very first section that I wanted to just quickly go over these just general basic photo composition. I'm not sure where you're at in terms of photography or digital photography and the acronyms behind and knowing that ISO and the balance and composition and all that sort of stuff with images, that sort of stuff with photography. It also applies to drone photography and videography. So I just wanted to cover the very sort of lower-level basics just to make sure all the way, or at least relatively on the same page together. So that's what this quick first part is about. Later on we'll get into more specific stuff to drones and sort of apply, that's the stuff that we're talking about now to drones and taking videos and photos with your drone. To begin with, I just wanted to talk about resolution. Iv. You don't know about resolution. It's the 720 P or the full HD or four K or all those sorts of terms that you hear thrown around. A lot of people think that that's the be-all and end-all of photography and videos. And that the higher the resolution, the better. And generally speaking, all things else being equal, something that's filmed in for k would be much nicer to look at it. And solving film didn't even 720 p, even though 720 pays quantifying resolution, you have 720 pay, which has 720 pixels in the vertical. Section, 1080 pay, which obviously has 1081,080 pixels. And then you have four K. The general term for k, which is our 24 times the resolution of 1080 P. And it has 2160 pixels in the vertical. This that you're viewing right now is filmed in 1080 people. Full HD is generally known nail. You may be watching, watching it in 720 pair or a low resolution, but it was filmed in to100 pain and uploaded in ten ADP. Obviously, the higher the resolution, the better the more crisp it's going to be, the more detail you're going to see in it. And it has its effective. You're watching on YouTube that will get crushed and compressed just like a JPEG expressed image. Youtube compresses the video to not take up as much bandwidth from you downloading it. And there's many, many different factors to a, but generally speaking, the higher resolution, the better that you do have to have all the other things like good lodge, proper exposure and all these other things that do also contribute to the quality of an image or the quality of the video. Now, the magic Pro and the phantom for both shoot in full or shoot up to four k at 30 frames per second. The phantom for pro can actually shoot at, okay, at 60 frames per second. So that's 60 frames per second. So each time it takes an image, and it'll take usually 30 images to make up 1 second of video footage. The 30 frames per second for the magic prior is obviously 30 images per second. To create the video with the phantom for PRO, you're taking 60 images per second, so you get a much smoother looking video. And if you want to actually have the speed of it, you can slow it down and get that sort of super slow mo effect. And 60 frames per second isn't really going to give you a huge least slow thing that will obviously be Hofstede of what you used to sing at 30 frames per second, get into the 120 frames per second, 240 frames per second. That's going to get that really cool looking super slow mo where you see water droplets falling through the air in very, very super slow mode. That sort of stuff you can't do with these forecasts to higher resolution for them to be recording such a high frame rate. But if you bumped the resolution day, unlike to take ADP recording with the Moravec or the fandom for prior, you can obviously get higher frame rates. The DJI Spock because it's not as expensive and doesn't have as good at camera equipment on it. Obviously because they're trying to make it cheaper in the recording ten ADP. So again, what you're possibly dealing now, he's to100 pay. It's quite fond to record that. But if you've got the phantom or the magic, I highly suggest recording 4k resolution. That's just a quick overview of actual resolution. Now I wanted to get into more sort of compositional things in terms of photography, which is, to begin with a very simple rule of thirds. The rule of thirds is essentially, it's best to its best described with visual imagery. So i'll, I'll put up a few things as I'm speaking here to try and help guide you, but essentially breaks the frame up into thirds. Usually they put two lines through the photo. Then there's grids that you can enable on drones and federalism, lots of stuff to help you with this. But there'll be two lines through the actual photo or video that splits the image up into thirds. And the idea is that you want to place your subjects. For instance, if you were telling me a photo of me and on your subject, rather than placing the dead center to make things a little more interesting and sort of creates a bit of visual disturbance, which is why it makes it interesting instead of looked at a bit longer unknown and that's different thing. But you place the image to decide now maybe the left side or maybe the rocks are. And you place it on one of those two actual grid lines to make it in one of the overlapping two of the thirds of the actual camera. Can look okay if you have blank surfaces and stuff, but generally it won't be a very well balanced thing like that. As often good if you have something else here to help balance the photo and I'll talk about that a bit more in a second. But generally the rule of thirds, It's a very good trick to just really starting from scratch. You don't know anything about photography. And you're taking a photo of a person or penguin or a car or whatever it might be. Instead of taking it in the direct center, I'll just sort of shifted off to that 1 third by the Assad and just see how it creates a bit more of an interesting photo or video that you're taking. That's the idea behind rule of thirds. And as I said, it plays into balance as well. And what balances is trying to essentially visually balanced your photo. So obviously, what you're looking at now is very balanced Because I'm hitting the center. Everything should be nice and symmetrical. Hopefully my faces and everything looks nice and neat sort of thing. He vows to just sort of sit like this and start talking to you like this. All my videos of me talking to you like this. I don't know about you, but it doesn't really look the best knot in the center. Things out symmetrical things on downloads to conduct the key. If you're doing it as part of the rule of thirds, can create a bit of interests. But if you're doing a continuously and it's paused the video and just kind of looks off and bad. People just prefer to have things sainted and symmetrical. It's why when we're looking at faces and judging faces, if your faces highly symmetrical, a lot of people will judge who has being very pretty and beautiful with your faces. Not symmetrical. One is does this or something like that. Unfortunately, people will probably judge you as being not as pretty or possibly even ugly. It's just how the brain works and we enjoy symmetry and things being nice and balanced. So the thing that's white balance Thomas from, and you don't just create balanced by making things symmetrical. You can make things balanced by balancing one image or one object with another side. If I was to put this in front of me here, again, it's not some balanced because everything's symmetrical. The devolves to step to the side. This is obviously not well-balanced because all the objects and the white of the visual weight of the photo is all on this side. Whereas if I hold this up like this and sort of stay in a bit more slightly centered. The white of the photo is actually balanced a lot better because you've got this object here. Me as an object here, it balances the photo and it's difficult to describe, but I'll show a number of examples of what I mean in terms of a balanced photo. So this is a photo that's not particularly well-balanced. As you can see, it kind of shifts and wide to one side. Whereas this example is actually a good example of a photo of being balanced. And you'll notice that the objects and not symmetrical or anything like that, but the general picture just feels, even if feels balanced, that looks pleasant. It's interesting and a good photo. And that's kind of what I made behind balance when you're taking a photo of a mountain or the ocean, or even if a person or wherever it is, whether you're doing it with a camera, with the foreign taking a selfie or something like that. With your drone in the air. You want to make sure you have that balance and it doesn't have to be symmetrical. That's very full, very formal form of balance. Well said The unfold version, which is what I'm describing here we have objects and they're not identical. Objects are not symmetrical or anything, but they balance each other out with white and it might be very dark object and very large object might be a very big object and lots of little tiny objects as many different ways to do it. As I said, it's best. Given you examples of photos. I'll show a few more. But that is balancing. Again, it's a very simple thing that you can do as you're lining up to your photo, lining up your drone to type that photo or video. You want to make sure that you're seeing your composite composition of your photo or video. It's not symptoms to something that will make your photos kind of stand out a little more. No one will be able to tell you why they're particularly noss and less daunting photography courses and not all bad. But if you just show in general person say, which one of these two photos do prefer. They'll pick the one that's nice and evenly balanced and go, yeah, that one looks nasa. They weren't being able to tell you why. I'll prefer that one. So that's balanced. It's a very important part of photography. And obviously videography and other important part is exposure. So this is the exposure or lots. So when you're taking a photo or video, you have many different controls to. You've got the exposure compensation, got the ASA, you've got the aperture, all these sorts of things. But one of the main things that they do is control how much light is coming into the lanes and thus how exposed or underexpose overexpose things. Awesome. Overexposure is where everything's too brought in as a sun behind you and you can't see anything. It's like you being blinded or everything's just blown out as Watts everywhere and you can't see any detail and it just looks horrible thing. I'll show you an exhibit here. This is overexposure. Then you've got the opposite side of it which is underexposure, and that's when does normal flights it perhaps you've taken a photo of a band in a dark naught club or maybe you just add a not taking photos, so to think, and there's not enough lots that you can't see the d tau people's faces or whatever it is that you're photographing. We're taking a video, wolves. It's underexposed and everything's just too dark to see. Both of these cases are very important in photography and videography, but we're even more important with drugs. And I'll go into its own special section in the next video. Because drones often fly out in the sun and you don't really have as much control over the light with drones as you would with another camera. Here. I have full control over the lighting in here. I can make sure that it's not overexposed or underexposed. So it's bit hotter with drones, and I'll cover that in the next section. So that's just a brief overview of a few quick handy tips that you can do for your normal photography with your camera or your phone or something like that. Bottle service of drugs. The next one is to do with your background. So you've probably noticed that on basically the R&D point of focus here, my background is very plain, watched it simple, and focus on this main mix from nasa image. If this was a background of, you know, a 100 different things or cause whizzing by or a 100 different things happening. It wouldn't make it as Notice. Again, you wouldn't be comfortable with it. You'd always be distracted by the background and the things that are happening there. It's the same for photos as well. You want to make sure that your background is generally speaking on complicated Pepsi, it's complicated and blood out, you'll see that effect quite a lot with cameras. So you'll have lots of different things in the background. But if you speed blurred out, so it makes it less complicated, this noisy or lots of stuff on. The thing that you're wanting to focus on the subject is not, It's clear and crisp, been focused. Hearing gills is out of focus. The other way is you can just have been focused background, but very simple. As I said, Pepsi, if you've taken a photo of a boat, for instance, rather than taking a photo of the part directly on and you see that Bart and you've got all these mountains and other people and other boats and complicated things in the background that distract you from the focal point of the photo. The bird, perhaps try taking it from overhead. So you can see in this photo here as an example, it's just a simple boat because all the water around it is one color. It's very flat, it's very simple. That makes that focal point off the boat stay in there. A lot more hopeful that are just gets better because of it, because it isn't complicating things in the background. Now, moving on from the background, if you know, sort of in photography and don't go too much about it, you probably won't be aware of the whole foreground, middle ground and background ideas. I'm not gonna go into this too much. But generally speaking, when people fly drones, they mostly, if not to mostly focus on backgrounds. So you'll mountains, oceans as they go off into the distance, sorts of things because you're so high up drone usually or you want to take a photo of is that pretty mountain in the background or that are pretty Costco in the background or warfarin or whatever I'm like. That's fine. Background photo, background only photos can be very pretty and very nice. But if that's all you take photos and videos off, quickly get quite boring. So you want to mix it up with taking photos with things in the foreground, which they, for instance, myself here and then the full brand on very close to the camera and the subjects sort of thing. The middle ground is obviously anything between the foreground and the background. So it might be, you might have a person standing here in the foreground. A house. In the middle ground and then mountains in the background. So they are three foreground, middle ground and background. And you want to also move between them. So you might move from your foreground and then pan away into the middle grades. So I'll make a more causal that again in different sections, but that's just something to keep in mind that you do have these three separate things. You need to keep mixing it up to make sure that your photos are interesting. Now, speaking of making sure that your photos and videos are interesting, another fantastic trick is obviously that have a subject in your photo and video. As I said, many people take photos, all backgrounds, and that's perfectly fine. Mountains or volcanoes or whatever it might be. But generally, if you're creating a big slideshow or a big movie montage or something like that. You want to have different foreground, different background, middle ground. And you want to have subjects, you want to have something that did the view of matrix focus on that can keep the interest. If you have a picture of a beach, might look very nice. If you have a picture of that same beach with someone paddling out into the ocean on the surfboard. It just makes it more interesting, this liveliness to it, and it gives them more depth. And this is true about photos and videos. Obviously. While you're doing it, you want to make sure that not only have a subject in the photo, but they're actually preferably doing something. Perhaps it's a call that's going in and out of the same. So you might have an overview of a road or something like that in a calc on driving through, it makes a lot more interesting than just an overhead video of a word. Not doing anything but just to put them as will be a photo sort of thing. So again, we'll cover these sorts of examples a bit more in a section later on. But this is just to sort of get you thinking about certain different ideas and things that you don't want to just take videos and photos of rods human just take videos and photos of buildings or mountains and that sort of stuff to really get good, nice photos that they get the reaction of people going. That's a really good photo, good work sort of thing. You've got to add multiple things. You've got to add foreground. You're going to have points of interest. You've got to have subject moving through to create that interesting. So there's keep people entertained basically because it is a form of entertainment. Make sure that you have a subject and perfect way subject that's moving and doing something to keep it interesting when you were doing a video or photo. Now, that's not none of these are absolute 100% rules. You can learn them and break them obviously, but it's about knowing all the different points that keep people interested and mixing them with each other. I mean, as I said, a photo of mountains can be beautiful and look fantastic and white have any moving calls or any of that sort of garbage in it. But it will still look beautiful. But at the same time, you can't show a 100 photos of a 100 different mountains. It's going to get boring no matter how fantastic they're short. So do you have to mix the mean if you're creating a video and mixed them, if you're creating a slideshow or something like that. So don't take what I'm saying with 100% seriousness. Try and mix it in with that stuff. Have symmetrical photos, have slightly off balanced. Mix it in with cars driving through mobile and immobile subjects and you'll photos and videos. And one other final thing though, just want to say that really sort of makes things extra. Wow, a lot of the time you'll say Really award winning photos. And what I've noticed is that those sorts of fun as you can. You can go into a place like maybe Antarctica, get a fantastic shot like this where it's really unique place. When we went to and talk to her, it was fantastic. You essentially couldn't take a bad phone. You could take a photo with the fired hanging out a window of actual shift and that looks fantastic, goes Georgia dropping because the scenery was just circle or just so beautiful every way you went. But at the same time, that said it can get boring after a while. But at the same time, the absolute best photos that are out there sort of combine two things. You have. One hand, scenery or thing, or a place that's just unique. It's amazing looking at and not many people get a photo of it. And I know many people go to Antarctica and maybe it's a solar eclipse or something like that. Something that's actually special applies, or a phone or something that's very unique and special. But what makes a photo go from? Oh, that's a really nice photo, right up to kind of like, wow, that's an amazing photo, is combining that unique special location with doing something else unique inside of it. So perhaps you might be doing an awesome 360 snowboarding trip or something. Lost. The International Space Station and trades it's through the sun or something like that. Combining these two things that are completely fantastic in their own right. A picture of someone doing an awesome stage on post-calving picture or the International Space Station transiting through the sun separately, right? Shots to do and they look great. Just separately. But when you combine them together, you elevate that photo rod up into an amazing shot and you can do this too. And maybe you don't do it in such a high level, but you can go from a really good shot to us and absolutely fantastic shot of view gets something that you've got a drawing. Quickly. You'll be getting a drone soon. You can get some very unique perspectives and videos and some amazing shots on these. Combined that with someone taps on the ground or a boat or something doing something amazing at the same time, maybe they doing jet skiing and they'd going over awesome John PDA. While you've got a unique perspective from the drone itself, can take it from you just videoing someone having fun on a jet ski. Two amazing video of great proportion. So that's something that I've noticed over time, doing photography, doing video, drawing photography, that when you combine those two things together, try and look out for those things you'll know when you're in a really unique spot. You know, when you're in Antarctica or something like that. And it's not always possible allowed to type drawings to I talk to her anymore, unfortunately. But that being said, this alpha places that you can try and recap for those locations that give you that fantastic opportunity to have a fantastic shot of someone or something doing something fantastic, fantastic location. So that's just the general tip that you can keep in the back in mind and look out for while you're doing all your photography and videography. And I'd highly recommend reading up more on just general photography. There's lots of videos and other stuff online about drone photography, but it's certainly nowhere near the amount that's appalling digital photography. So I borrowed, applied on each other so you want to get good at taking photos with your drone. Will type in videos with your drone. Getting researched just plain old photography or plain old videography because they've been around for decades. But awesome, fantastic and very free resources out there and kind of recommend taking them up. And a big part of it is also what you can do in Photoshop, Lightroom or Final Cut Pro, all of these sorts of tools as well. So that can again take a shot from being beautiful right up to next level sort of thing. Having read through or any of that online stuff with you're still interested. Thought in the next section we'll be covering light and how it applies to drugs. And specifically, I'll talk to you then. 43. Section 9 - 2 - Lighting And Direction: And welcome to this special section on lighting and direction. They're not seem a bit strange to do a special separate section on lightning direction, but it is really, really important with drones. Now, logging is, of course, very important with general photography as well. Though with general photography, you can control a lot, a lot more, especially if you're a professional photographer. You might have a professional studio where you've got your own special lights and you can sit into exactly lot level that you want. Then it began to change as long as you leave them and touch them. You can even grab your subject and told him to face a certain direction so I get the perfect light and all that stuff. You can diffuse the launch in certain ways with different filters and things like that. You have a lot of control over the line drawings. Unfortunately, we don't have much control at all. Not solstice the sun. It's going to be an awesome brought, which is good for the drawings. It means that you don't end up with noisy images or anything like that. And you can have a very low ISO setting for those who know what also is. It's basically the sensitivity of the camera itself. But you can have it set to very low because the law is usually brought in the middle of the diagonal. You're shooting video. It's very easy in that regard, but at the same time you don't have control over the sun. A cloud can guard past it and change things by a couple of stops. In the blink of an eye. You didn't have any control over that. And you don't have any control over reducing the broadness of the settlement. Perhaps you tried to take a video or a photo of something, but it's just to grant awards, not Broaden off or whatever it might be. You have to deal with it in unique and special y's when you are taking photos and videos with drones. And it's different to taking photos and videos. Digital SLR AWS will point and shoot cameras or even use for it. So that's what this section is about. Lots of it's special. Begin with. The main issue with drones and taking videos and photos is shooting directly into the sun. So I'll just, as an example, imagine that you are the sons, My lot source and I've got a join here and the sons, are you all? Now? The last thing I want to do is extruding directly into the actual song itself. Because that will just blow the shop, the shops when we get to overexposure or maybe underexposure depending on exactly where it's looking at a photograph. But in general, you just want to be a particularly good shot. The one exception is if you're taking a photo of the sun itself. So maybe during a sunrise or sunset photo. You can do that with these drawings and look fantastic. You need slightly special settings for. Dei can be done. For the most part though you want to be taken from us away from the sounds. You want to still be using it as your lats tools. But you want to be taking videos and photos as things facing away from the sun. Now, you can take photos and videos slightly off-center, off axis to the sun. But in my experience, heute wrong the very high risk that you'd get basically flaring over the layman's. Show you he nailed this is what it looks like when you take a photo or a video and you get this kind of flaring coming over the actual lens itself and the candidates ruins the whole video. You might have had fantastic shot like this one here in Iceland, where we were taking video and fantastic shot and I thought, but when I got home, I didn't really look too good. That's the yellow thing. If you try and take photos at that slightly off axis, you may not notice it because at the time you will flowing around, you're looking at your phone or maybe a tablet or wherever it is. And you just want to be able to say it's such a small screen, so brought outside, it's very difficult to say and pop from anything else. You're concentrating on flying the actual Jordan and flip. But you just weren't even if you just won't be able to see that slot lanes over until you get it back onto the biggest screen in a darker room where you can actually see it properly. And that's where you will notice that it's all being flared and ruined you showed. So my suggestion and what I generally do is again, if the sun is facing this way and all the source, try and take videos and photos in 180 degrees, OK, are facing a wife and his sons in any way from here. All the way to heal should be safe. You shouldn't get that flu or anything. We should still be obligate. Great, fantastic Charleston, well lit by the sun. But at the same time you don't have that overblown or underexposed photo nasal flaring or any of that garbage that you want to keep out of your shot so that 180 degree, OK, looking in any of that direction is. Where I try and always shoot and where I would suggest, at least to begin with that you always shoot. It's a goodbye. I've just kind of eliminating older, difficult business of dealing with the sunlight and what offset is set to that you can keep everything going on automatic and still get great shot just by pointing in that direction away from the sun. So that's the first sort of tip. The second one is to try and take photos and videos at the golden Analog. Now, this is what it was named by photographers. It's essentially the hour before sunset or off to some rows, so sunrises it seven AM in the morning. Take videos and photos between seven AM and eight AM. They'll look fantastic. Same time, this onsets at six PM. Type videos and photos between five PM and 06:00 PM. That golden analog is just fantastic. What happens is because the sun is low on the horizon, it's got to go through more and more sort of atmosphere which diffuses all the watt, turns a different color as well. Gold as you would guess. Just gives everything a beautiful sort of warm feeling. Everything looks. The light isn't as harsh here and when it's over the top, There's not much atmosphere that comes beating down. That's why it's hotter during the time, during this harsh allotments, it's a lot harder to get the right sort of light and look through each shot. But when it's in all browsing or in QuickTime, you've got this beautiful golden light that's very lot. Notice harsh. So that's a general rule to also follow that will guarantee to get really, really good shot. The other tip that I have is this website here. So if you go to this website here on this link, you'll notice that it's got a lot of different information or go first into in the location that you want to actually video or photo. And maybe this might be the park down the road or it could be a park or something further off, maybe the location of your holiday or something like that. Wherever it is, enter it in and then enter the day that you will actually be there. So getting this might be today or it might be a year in the future. It doesn't matter entering those two pieces of information. And it will calculate this map for you. This is an example, this is just in Paris, France. Say we wanted to take a photo and beautiful video of this like here. But we don't know when the sunrise or sunset will be. Well, this map tells us, so say we wanted to drive to here and then take photos this way. During the afternoon, during sunset. What we won't know unless we look on this is that the sun is setting over here. So the sun will be here and will be shining light in this direction over here. So the better thing to do is to actually go over here, take-off, or maybe park there and fly a drone over in this direction and shoot in this direction. So shoot with a drone facing anywhere from heel all the way around here. So you're looking in this direction with the sun sitting to your back. When you do that, as I said, you'll have nice golden light streaming over the like. It'll give you a beautiful, beautiful look. If you wanted to do this during sunrise, you pay attention to this one here because you've got Sunrise with that color, sunset with that color. If you wanted to do this during the sun rise, you'd probably want to fly a drone over here. So you've got the sun rising from beaming over this way. And you're filming in any of these areas over here with all the sun facing that way. That's a quick, easy shortcut that you can login quickly putting your location, seeing where the sunrise and sunset, he's going to pay, you know, sort of help to form your short. You can also learn it off things like Google Earth as well, getting even better off 3D representation of where you're going to be flowing. I mean, if you're just starting out to the park for five minutes to have fun. Fair enough going on. But if you're planning on taking your drone over to some special location, perhaps it's up POC or a holiday destination or something like that. These tools are excellent to just kind of bringing them up on the map and just sort of seeing what the best shot you can essentially fly randomly Google Earth as you would with a drone. That combined with this online tool really helps you understand the way online it is and control it in that sense, you obviously can't control the sun, but you can at least make sure you're in the right place at the right time to get the exact effect that you want. That's the section on lot and direction. As I said, it's a bit different having a whole section on it. But I thought it was very important for drones in particular because we can't control those things. You can control how you balance a photo and whether it's symmetrical or things like that, That's easy to do, but you can't control his own ways of managing those situations. And I find handy and get some fantastic results. Sorry, it's dark. We'll go into all the different advanced flying shots that you can do. 44. Section 9 - 3 - Advanced Aerial Shots: Welcome to this main section on advanced aerial shooting. So now that hopefully you've got a basic understanding of the fundamentals of photography and videography. We can get into how to actually translate that into what movements you need to do on your drawing to get those sort of results. What some simple shots and even some more advanced shops that you can do to really sort of take people's interests and guard from just having plain old regular shot of flying forward to something that's a little more interesting, but also quite simple. And some other events, ones as well. To begin with, the very first thing that I want to note is focus. Now it may seem a bit silly to go on about this, but for something like the spock or even the phantom, for you don't really have to worry about this too much because they auto focus. But with the phantom for PR and the metric per day actually have the autofocus and manual focus modes. You can sort of make the mistake of accidentally recording or taken photos and whatnot out-of-focus. And it's very difficult to tell because when you're flying and you've got your little phone here and you're lining up your shot and you're like, Oh yeah, It looks fantastic. And you start recording. You don't actually realize it until you get it back on you computer again. Maybe the next style with a nod or something. And it's a lot of focus in completely ruined. It's very annoying. I've done it numerous times. So the best thing that I've been to do is even if it's own automatic Fergus, just before you start actually taking your shortlist, you've lined it up and you're ready to press Record or Presley, take a photo button. Just refocus, just tap in the middle of that screen and white for it to readjust and reorder focused. And you'll hear a little beep in saying that it's actually gained focus and then you'll perfectly fall. You've done everything you can possibly do to make sure it's in focus, we can hit that record button and start going for your loss. That's one of the main points that I want to make in regards to focus, especially for the metric per and the fame and fall apart. Next, I want to go over the actual tilting of the camera. On the actual camera, you've got your gimbal and you've got manual control of it. Sorry, this is an advanced maneuvers will. We did cover them as well, but all this is actual manual flying, so it's good to know manual flying as well as using those intelligent plot modes. But when you're manually controlling the gimbal up and down, you've got to make sure that it is smooth. So when the controller, you pull down and push up to tilt the camera up or down, depending on which way you've got it configured. You need to make sure that that movement is very slow. When you're looking at it on your screen, you think that it's Sloane, you think going, yeah, that looks fantastic. I'm maybe I'm tilting around this wire if I'm actually following the drug or maybe I'm tilting the camera down this way you can go all the way. But whichever way you're moving or tilting, if you're recording video, must be a slow and the smooth as possible. Besides when in fact that you don't want the quick jagged moving of switching from one side to the other. And I'll show you some quick footage here of what I'm talking about. This is what it results in when you quickly changed from left to right or up or down and you get this jerky motion. Just quite frankly, it looks a tertiary is in terms of footage and we'll probably end up making people feel sick who's watching the video? It's horrible. You don't want to do it. Besides from that, if you are actually tilting smoothly or rotating smoothly or tilting up and down smoothly, you also want to make sure that it is slow enough. So if you do it too fast, everything's just going to blow her out and it's just In a look. Again, very poor, very amateurish. You don't want to do it. Again. I'll show you another example here. This is too fast and you can probably tell. And you want to have it look a little bit more like a place where it's nice and smooth slide. You can actually see the 48 that's being displayed. And it's all nice and proper. What I would recommend that you do is don't fly, tilt up and down. Strife left or rod or fly, left or rotten while you're turning around and recording. And to see and keep in mind how slow are you turning that camera has slowly turning a gimbal or whatever it is that you're doing. Then go back home, download the footage, watch it on a big screen, and sort of see what that actual movement translates to in terms of footage and trying to learn how slow it is. Slow because it seems like an episode snail's pace by default when you're actually really gently moving the gimbal down and it will seem very slow and almost boring sort of thing. But when you actually watch the video footage on a screen, it looks very professional, very smooth, and what you actually want, what most people want when filming footage. Once you've done that, you want to get some type of shot, sorry, a lot of people, they might just fly forward and I can also certainly produce some fantastic shots. But there are other types of shots that are very simple that you can do to make things look nice. When you're taking videos and photos of things showing you might have in your subject in mind and you know exactly what you want a shirt. But how should you shoot it? Shoot you just fly straight towards it. You fly AAPL. Which way should you go? So I just wanted to show you a couple of different types of filming shots that you can use. And how that translates to the actual controls on a controlled demonstrate how we want to do each of those shots. To begin with, this is one of the very simple shots. And all it is just rising in altitude or you can lower, but by the way, gives a fantastic result as you can save. So this is just a short of the mountains in Iceland. And it is rising up in altitude and known a fancy flying or spinning around or doing some assaults or anything like that. But it still gives a fantastic view. You have time to really taking the scenery and appreciate what it is. You can have it for a number of seconds and not get bored. You've got a little vain car or whatever it is driving around down there to also add a little bit of interest as well. It's just a very nice relaxing shot and it's not doing anything fancy with the journal. In fact, all I was simply doing is pushing the stick. So this is a motor obviously. But you want to push it slightly up, very slightly keep a sustained pieces. Again. You don't want to be going up and then slamming down and up phosphorus lying down. You want to go off at a slower pace and just keep that speed constant for a number of seconds. As you film. It may seem a little bit boring just during the actual flowing, but it will result in great photography. Next up, a bunch of slightly more complicated ones. There is one other slightly simple one. And that is it's kind of in-between, between simple and complicated above. Rather than simply flying up or down, what you can do is point the camera directly down to looking down over your subject or some sort of scenery or river or a mountain or whatever it might be. Rather than just flying up and down. And as we're doing before, you actually fly upwards whilst you're spinning around like this. And this is very simple as well. So again, rather than flying up or down, like not, what you want to do is pull or get a certain speed up or down going. So for instance, pushing up and you want to hold it this or you've got a continuous speed going up, then you just slightly put left or right depending on which way you want to spin. So if I wanted to go up and spin, I would slightly go up and then pull to my left there. What that results in is the drone flying up wall. It spins around and trying to demonstrate here. But rather than just flying straight up like this, it'll fly up while slowly rotating around like sorry. That results in this sort of style video. As you can see. It's just a nice sort of effect. It's nothing super special, but it's a good shot that you can have in there and fill other certain scenes. Sorry, The next one is this particular shot here, which is again from a trip to Iceland. And in it you see a gravel road and then the car enters and exits it. What this is is basically a good way to storytelling. Now, it may not be as close as that video was, but you are essentially holding a certain spot and having your subject into him and then exit out. Well, they may not exit out. I may simply entering and continue inside that sort of thing. Again, it gives a bit of interests because you've got you first see the background and you could appreciate the SR and all that stuff. But then something else comes in which keeps that interest going and really just keeps you entertained. Basically. Here's another example on the same killed a beach. You can see the beach and it looks all pretty. And then a woman starts walking in so you can actually get a bit more entertainment out of it sort of thing as it comes through. And it just again, thanks for very nice shot to perform that shot. Again, it's very simple in terms of the controls that you'll actually be doing. You can obviously just set up, get ready for your shot and have that subject into REM and interrupt. You may not actually even do anything. You might not move the drawing at all. It's just Whiting and holding that position and white and for the subject to come into it, you can also do other simple ones where you strife left or rot. And whilst you're doing it very slightly so you'll almost sort of standing still and holding that frame. But there is still a slight bit of movement, sort of help that subject coming to the frame a bit quicker. So that's another very simple physical thing to do with the modern, but it gives us very advanced sort of visual short when you actually record it and showed in the video. Next up is actually striking whilst turning the camera. This one can get a little bit more complicated, but with a bit of practice that becomes quite simple. So you can see an example of it here wherever we're looking again at the beach and with flowing in one direction whilst the camera is being tilted in a different direction. So what that entails is obviously they'll strengthening so you'll either flying left, sorry, flying left or rot. That is the drawing actually. Rather than spinning around locked up, it will actually be flying, striking left or right. Wallets continuously flying. For instance, rot. Tomorrow. You want to actually tilt the camera around like that. So it's almost sort of doing this orbit taught thing, but not quite. It can get a little bit more complicated, as I said, with the sticks because you are doing multiple, two sticks and at the same time as opposed to just fly out both flowing up and spinning. You want to cite fly left and then tilt rocks or you're switching flying left as well as turning around like that, the exaggerated but flying along and turning at the same time. This gives another very nice to fit as he's another example that you can see Iceland again. And this one is looking at the ocean. So you can see just a very nice slight tilde. And it just gives that dynamic of almost two different movements simultaneously, which is what we're doing. Again, it just keeps things interesting older with filming a purely static ocean or a static page that gives it a bit of movement and interest in towards. That's another fantastic way that you can pick people's interests and keep them entertained while you're actually filming. Next up, we have another relatively simple one which can give fantastic results, which is just a simple overhead shot. Sorry. I love these shots might sound like they're very simple and you might want to try more advanced things. We spin around in all directions. But to be honest, even though you might want to try those more advanced ones, sometimes the simplest shot actually looked at the best. It's the refinement of these simple shots that really give professional quality TO photos and your videos. Rather than trying to do something really fancy that just doesn't work and looks very immature. Do try these simple ones first. Not only are they easier, but I will give you more pure, have better results, I believe most of the time. So this one is simply flying overhead. And again, it may just be a simple as flying straight or sorry, flying striking are flying up, flying strike. With the camera faced down or maybe even up at an angle or something like that. For these ones because you don't really introducing a huge amount of movement. You're not flying left and painting rod at the same time or something like that. You want to try and have something with a subject that's actually moving and doing something. So it might be a top, in this case in a waterfall. So what does obviously moving? It's also a fantastic short to-do when there's waves coming in on the beach. But as you can see here and again, you know, Iceland on a trip, it gives a fantastic result, even though I'm literally just pressing forward and flying forward. You can also tilt a little, sorry, very tight a little as well. But I wouldn't be doing full spins all the way around. Just a slight tilt, very, slight tilt will get you some good results. There. This next one is probably one of the most complicated ones on recommend doing this once you've mastered all the other ones, because there are quite a number of Dials and buttons, sorry, dolls and controls you need to be doing simultaneously. You also need to be able to perform all three of them very smooth. So what this entails is flying backwards or flying forward or flying backwards and OP, and backwards and download. Some combination of that. Whilst at the same time pulling the gimbal up or down. So you can do this one way or the other. You can reverse it in post-production bitwise. Excellent. This is more for the start or the ending of the video that you model reproduce or just a very nice review shot. A lot of the time you'll see it in videos and movies where they will into the same and I'll be flying over a big arching. They'll be looking down and they'll slowly pin upwards. And that will bring you into the movie or into the shuttle whenever it is, this is the same thing. So you want to be flying forward, which is this control here. Again, you want to be starting off, I'd like to start off flying forward and just get that down pat you can hold it in it that controlled steady, right? Well, to a flying forward, you can even add in vertical or you can add vertical going up or down, descent or ascent. That way you'll essentially flowing along, slowly rising up as you're flying along. And that's sort of two sections are flying. And then you want to adjust your gimbal up and down slightly. So you're essentially doing this kind of stuff with your hands. So you're controlling all three of the things, which is why it gets quite a bit complicated to time the ball and get the, the image in frame and all that sort of stuff. But it gives fantastic results. So this is an example of doing it backwards. Essentially, I actually flew this backwards. I didn't reverse it. Again, we're in Basland, so this is flying backwards as well as flying up as the gimbal is moving upwards towards the Persian and revealing the beautiful scenery. That gives a fantastic result. And then doing it in the reverse wife. You can have a look at this one, which is again from Iceland. And here we're flying forwards. We're not actually fly up or down. We just flying forward or quite a decent speed. And we've got the gimbal again from going down, looking upwards. And you can use these, as I said, the intern into the video or exiting a video or in the middle of it. It doesn't particularly matter, but it is a very nice shot to have in your repertoire. It is a bit more complicated because you are doing multiple things at the same time. Fantastic one to practice and see if you can get good at it. Finally, one of the last sort of shot top tips I can give you this again, is what else was talking about before with the foreground, middle ground, and background. And this is utilizing things that are actually up close to you or in the middle grand, and not just taking videos and photos of things that are far off in the distance to keep things interesting field viewers. In this short here you can see that we stopped behind a hill, then we slowly rise up to share the beautiful scenery and the cause of driving long. It helps to give you sort of fuel perspective of how big this whole area isn't, how big those mountains on the background. So it's a very, again, a very simple physical thing to do. All you're doing is pushing the uptick and Rosling. But it's about knowing way to actually type the shorts from and knowing how to type goo photography and videography. So it's not all about the flying of the actual drawing. You've got to have the knowledge behind it to make sure that you're incorrect law. You're not facing the sun, that you are doing. Composure and balanced properly. And it all adds up to a fantastic show. That's what practices. And that shot there was again in Iceland. But as I said, very simple with good result. And you can do this with trees in front of you. You can do this with houses in front of you. You can do it in reverse. So you can have beautiful scenery. And then as we lower down, perhaps a beautiful house comes into view in front. Or maybe some people who have even taken a video of a video. So those are just a few of the ways that you can utilize majority, using relatively simple commands and controls on the actual control to get very advanced aerial photography and videography results. And one other thing that you can do, you can do any of these that I've mentioned before, but also drop the frame rate. I'm sorry, increase the frame rate. Sorry. When you usually have a drawing or a camera, usually have two things. You've got the resolution which I explained before can be paycheck day for each day for K. And then you've got the frame rates on lobby, 30 frames per second, 60 frames per second. You can audit one or the other. You can have a very high resolutions. I like full TEI, but it's probably only going to be about 30 frames per second. Technology is getting better. I'm getting hard and with the absolute lightest fantasy for PR, you can get. Sixty frames per second at that full, okay. But generally the shape that you guys have lower resolution and also lower frames per seconds. So you can do all of those shots and I was talking about before, but just make it in a high frames per second so you can get that super slowly lower effect coming out of it. Unfortunately, you will have to probably reduce your resolution down from full k. Even on the fandom for PR, as I said, you'll only get 60 frames per second, which will give you sort of half speed slow motor, which is not bad, but the slowing light, you generally want like 120 frames per second go something. And so you'll have to pull that down to at least the full HD or the HD for the Phantom, four per for partner does hij and four-inch days, that's 710 ADP at that 120 frames per second, which is fantastic, That's awesome. Slowly lower, you can get some great results with it. For the PR, it can do not six frames per second at full HD or tonicity bit. And you can do a 120 frames per second slowly at that high HD, which is the 720 P. The digital AI Spark unfortunately has the one setting of ten ADP at 30 frames per second. If you're wanting to do those swimwear sort of shots, you'll obviously have to make sure you have the anodic Pro or the fancy full series drones. But other way you can get some fantastic results with them and doing their shot, even if you don't have super slow ignore. The ultimate thing that you have to do is practice and then practice again and then have a look on YouTube at what other people were doing. Try and replicate it, practice it again. Practice it again. Just flying during as much as possible. You will get much, much better at it, especially with those ones that are using multiple stick combinations. If you don't want particularly confident at flying, strike at a constant speed, rotating smoothly at a constant speed, then you never gonna be able to do those more advanced ones that require multiple things at once. But as that other stuff becomes second nature to you, then you can start doing the more complicated ones with multiple sort of things. Just remember, as I said, the more advanced you guard, the more likely it is that it probably won't actually look that fantastic. Not an absolute rule, but just as a general thing that I've noticed, the more simple flying up or flowing to the side or that sort of stuff. We're rotating slightly. Those sorts of things not being too fancy, generally give the most professional end noss logs. And if you look at any of the professional music videos or GoPro videos or something, if they have helicopter footage or something, you'll probably notice that tree that they're not doing anything fancy there, not doing already some assaults whilst simultaneously videoing someone doing a surfboard, Ronald, something like that because you get distracted from it and I want to make you focus on whatever it is that they're filming site, myself border or something. And they might do some fancy painting down and around stuff. But that being said, that's a pretty basic move. It's just the drawing. Are you flying down and moving around slightly, sorry. With simple movements, you can get fantastically powerful and advanced aerial shots. So keep that in mind. Practice a lot. And we'll move on to the next section, which is about actual photograph and advanced photo section so that you can add advanced photos that you can do. I'll talk to you then. 45. Section 9 - 4 - Panoramas, Photo Spheres And Advanced Photo Settings: a young and welcome to this final section, which is on pen around those photos, fears and just more detailed information on camera. So I talked about it in the deejay at Riverview, went over the different parts off camera settings in there. But I also wanted to just go into more detail about the actual camera. And that extra setting said it's gotten the kind of braised over reasonably quickly because I was trying to focus more on the application cameras on things. But now that Web have gone over all the different advanced aerial shots and theory behind basic composition and stuff. I wanted to get into the details camera saying, It's all the different things you can do with the camera because while the drones out there take fantastic videos, you can also get some fantastic photos off. Well, so to begin with, you can see that we're in video mode over to say, with a big red button on the Rockets. I did. You want to make sure you switch into camera murdered so that you can access the camera settings and you do that by just tapping settings button there. So once we're in here, this is gonna look different for different drawings. You've got spark. For instance, you might not have a lot this advanced manual control over things like I so shutter speed or that sort of stuff. But at the same time, if you have the more advanced, fainting, serious stuff, you may don't have some of the panoramic, since that will be discussing his wealth that has come to the medic part, which is what you're flying with what are demonstrating with moment. But it hasn't yet come to Phantom Series. It may in the future, deejay like to at least updates, and I can just take time for them to release it for each of the sections. But for now, phantoms don't have the and really you can still get it a different well, talk second as well. So to begin with, you want to go to the actual middle section here, which gives you away the settings for the actual photo. So after talk, you've got the photo ritual getting toe a bit underneath it. You've got your image ratio so this could be our set to 16 by 94 by three problem. Erica. 16. No. And then underneath that we have door photo Roesch photo Former Sorry. With this further format within said it to raw J pegs. For those of you who don't know Raw is the or complaint Roy image daughter that sends on the camera collects. And this is for professional photographers who want as much detailed work with this possible. J peg is the compressed format that's basically for everyone else who just wants a photo spat at the shares it on Facebook. Order for my You can choose to have one or the other or actually captured birth with the medic. You may not see that on the standard fit for the spot moving on from there. You've got your white balance in style and tell lift. Now, as I went over on the deejay ab section, these coming to India different sort of times for May. I've always left most of those on known Automatic. It seems to deserve quite well. If you're capturing capturing the raw image data on you want to post processing, you can kind of those things like Ron. So it's not as important provided you captured footage, but you're capturing J take can be handy as well for May I found sitting in What order seems to be fine moving on from there. We actually have the photos section, so we go into that. You'll see there's multiple different options to start with. You can just have a single shot. After that, we have HDR, which stands for high dynamic range. So that's where you take one photo that is slightly more exposed, overexposed, one that is slightly under exposed and you actually merged them together. So this is fantastic for you. Shooting directly into the sun have areas of very brought, but also very doctor. Seven. Tone, which, it happens quite often, returns because your perhaps taking a photo off the sky as well as terrestrial objects. Morning it details from both of them. So that's what HDR is, and it is good to enable and used underneath that we have the burst mode, which is pretty obviously. Rather than continuously clicking the button. You can have a take three or more photos at the same one after the other as quickly as they can, and underneath that we have the a day, which is the order exposure Bracketing. This is a little more complicated and on the Matic Pro we have 35 So what this is is rather than, you know, taking one shot at a certain exposure, then upping the exposure, damming the explosion taken to other shots combined together, water bracketing Does this for you automatically. You can do it up to five second, take two over, exposed slightly and even war ever exposed, slightly undone, even further under exposed so that later on you can combine them all together. Really fantastic shop Nick and gives him quite handy and fantastic results. But again, it's just another example off the tops of photography that you can get with drones fly out on getting some fantastic shorts underneath that we have interval. So the interval is something which most people would use for time ups. Photography's. You've got a whole bunch of different settings that you consider tell you from two seconds up to 60 seconds that every 60 seconds of taking a photo or two seconds will take another side of If you are using this for a time lapse team, just remember that one second off time when you process the images like Iran, one second should be made up off anywhere from 24 to 30 frames or focus. You want to make sure that you have a photo every maybe 25 10 seconds, because if you said it for too long, inside yourself for 60 seconds maximum, you're drawing when he has a 25 minute battery. So that's 25 shots. Compress them all together. You would barely get one second of actual time lapse footage, which obviously would particular. Nice. So you want to try and make it a two or five seconds interval takes a photo every five seconds out. When you get lots of little lots of photos on when you compress them back down interaction . You're animated video, Tom laps you actually get something that's more than one second is actually enjoyable. So moving on from there we have the final section, which is the panorama section. So this is what this section was mostly about. Physical and horizontal panoramas that you can take so probably recommend by, say, the horizontal panoramic is the most common. You can also take slightly bigger panoramic shots, so ones that knowingly take them across like that but also slightly up and slightly dancing , get it a wider view. And then obviously you've got the spherical panorama, which takes, you know, shots all around. So what that will do is instruct the jury to take a foreigner. It they tilt the camera down, take another photo, took the camera down, taking on the photo. Then it will grow back off, turnaround of it and repeat the process are getting until it's calling for me round and you get this wonderful shot that will look something like this. It is a bit of a unique shop on something that you can do with your drawing of. You were in a nice location. As I said, The potential for you in digital Fourth, they panoramic shots. If you aren't seeing that option, that doesn't mean that you can't ever do it. You can take panoramic shots manually, sir. I when we went over to last time, we didn't have that morning enabled on Persia. See others released recently, and as such, if I wanted to do panoramic shots, had to do it manually. So I manually flocked to a spot, took a photo and manually turned the drones slightly. Making sure that there was some overlap, took another shot. Maybe we turned back the other way again. Making sure this summer was a lot took another shot, and the result of it was a panoramic that speech together later on, so you can see it here. It looks quite nice, but those that panoramic was made up of three shots in total. I uploaded them to global photos and Google photos Has this fantastic service where will automatically recognize that you're trying to, you know, make a panoramic shot automatically stitch them together for you so you don't even have to goingto photoshopped light room. We're doing that sort of stuff yourself if you don't want to, that's certainly a good way to do it if you're learning. But if you just want a quick panoramic shot, you can take three photos uploaded do photos for you just because it's not in the app for you. If you can't see it unable to your journey, it doesn't mean that you're left out. The other options you can also do is download 1/3 party control upset rather than using deejay go four app. To control your drone, you can download the party ones, which will also control your Journal. Go over that a little bit more later section. But the one I may be returned to is watching, which is an excellent application. And you can do even more photography based stuff with that gives you more control. So did you have included a decent bit off stuff? In? There are application, but you can take it. What? So that's everything about further sittings, panoramas, further seasonal. Lots of the stuff. I'll check with you in the next section. Thanks. 46. Section 10 - 1 - 3rd Party Software: And welcome to this final section on third-party apps and accessories and extra communities and just all the little bits and pieces that I wanted to throw it at the aim to make sure that you're fully aware of not just the DJI drone, an old settings and features that you have when you're drawing, but also the external third party stuff like the communities and the applications, other accessories that I have available out there. A way to sort of get that information from. To begin with this, the digital app or the DJI full application. And as you know, this is what you use to control the actual drawing itself. What you may not know is there's actually a third party replacements for this actual apps. So not an add-on or little extra feature that you can sort of add on to the digital program, something that completely replaces it with an entirely different application. And what this sort of stemmed from is the multiple uses of the more professional uses wanted a little bit more control. They might lock if each of the DJI has on the application. But I want to take it a step further. They want the order exposure bracketing with seven or 12 or 15 shots, all the different exposures instead of just three or five that the DJI app has. Or perhaps I want a certain type of intelligent flat mode that the DJ app doesn't actually have. This is where lacI came from. Originally. It's I started putting program that you can use to control your DJI drones. So if you go to the website, this website here that I'm showing, so just fly LacI.com. You can say that you can get it both for Android phones and for Apple phones as well. If you just click on those buttons, it'll take you to the appropriate app store where you can go and purchase it. So lacI is a paid application. Now, lot of applications on paid bought. This one is justifiable. So this is, as I said, it's not an add-on, it is an entire replacement. And the development of this program probably would've taken many, many, many months by lots of different people. It is a full-fledged program to actually replace DJI goes up. So looking at their website, you can see all the features that they have similar sort of tracking stuff to track you while you're writing, when you're awesomely cool motorbike, they've got different modes that you can also go through. You've got all the waypoints and doing missions in that regard. You even got your sort of virtual reality first-person view stuff in it as well. So although it is a little pricey on Android, it's roughly about 25 or $6. Australian at the moment, on iPhone is a little cheaper. It's about $23. I think. Obviously those process might change by the time you're seeing this. But it's an excellent application that can, as I said, not only sort of typed the features that the DJI GO app has and extend the lungs. But they didn't have entirely new features that may not exist on the DJI application. Example of this is panoramas and photos fees. This was something that Laci had a long time before I came to the DJI app. You can obviously use your spark or your phantom to do that stuff. But you might have a phantom and you might want to do panoramic shots or 360 shots, in which case you're going to get launched and do it that way. The other possible raising new modern want to punish us it as if you don't have a particularly well supported devices. I say you have a two-year-old device or Sony, or something that's not supported as well as like the Galaxy phones or the Pixel phones or any of those iPhones. Obviously. Laci is also another good alternative, might be a little bit more stable on your device if you don't have one of those more common devices to be used, sorry, that's LacI and the reasons behind why you want to use it and why it's very good and highly recommended. There are other applications as well. Replace the DJI, I go out but that's one of the main ones that I just wanted to make you aware of. Now, the next one is a feature called certainly an application called UAV forecast. We open this up. You can easily say that it gives you a very good overall Conditions Report. It tells you things like the wind gust up to what the temperature is. The weather is when the sunrise and sunset is. That's fantastic if you want to try and quickly get an idea of when to shoot during that golden hour that I was talking about before. Also, it gives you things like Pacific Ocean visibility, how many satellites you've gotten locked on that rotation? Lots and lots of information, but ideally it cannot be easily and quickly reduced to this section of the top here on whether it's good to fly or in this case, not good to fly because of visibility is a bit low. Now, it doesn't necessarily mean that you won't be out to fly. This says it's not good to fly. It just means that it's maybe it's a bit too dark or not as good visibility into writing very soon. But it's whether it can be often certain things, but it's a good way of quickly determining whether or not you could fly. You can open it up and go. Yeah, I'm good to fly the what's gonna run out of the door and stop flying drones and things. That's a very quick and yet still very d tau and application has other functionalities as well built into it. So if we go over to the forecasting tabs, you can actually see what it's gonna be like the light off on in the day and whether or not it's good to fly later on in the day. And it even has a map built into it, which can show you all the no fly zones and Pelley points, small airports or that sort of stuff. So this is just a example location in Brisbane, here in Australia. You can say this, small airports and then there's major big, no fly zones for large international airports. There's also very little Halley pads and all these other things daughter at alive apply. So you can quickly say wave you are what heliport or interquartile things. You might not be aware of our brand. You probably not gonna be good to fly in. And then decide whether or not you going to flop briefly, you don't fly the ambulance as I said before. So that's the UIMA for cost app. And another just small tweak that you can do is the threshold settings. So when you have different drawings and I will obviously be able to handle different things. So something like the phantom series is big, it's chunky, it'll handle pretty decently high winds. Other ones such as the Spock, are obviously a lot smaller and can't handle winds as well. Therefore, you can dynamically change those values of the max wind speed or the wind altitude to actually suit your drawing. Maybe it's a phantom series and you can take up to 40 Thai and AOL all types. It's a spot and you don't want to fly over the 17th element isn't there or whatever you want to set it at, you can set it. Maybe you find that a bit of drizzle is foreign field drawing. So you change the precipitation or the visibility or whatever the functions, it's all configurable and a fantastic application. Highly recommend using its full built-in to the one application and very easy and quick to see in use. So that's the UAV full-cost application. And finally, I wanted to show you one other application which was drawing deploy. Sorry, if we got it back over to website and jump over to this next tab, you can say it up here in drawing deploy.com. What this application actually is is it's more generally speaking, focused for businesses, farmers, people that do insurance or other sorts of things. Generally, businesses in general is more than told him that you can use a descriptive fun yourself personally bought more at businesses and enterprise. And what during deploy actually does is it does three-day mapping and information insights. So you can see here you can sit a particular area, iran, whatever you want to survey. And it will automatically create this green lined flat path. So what that will do is automatically instruct the drone to follow that green line and type lots and lots and lots of photos as it goes at pre pre-determined location. So one every second or whatever. It'll go into that inner thigh area and basically just automatically create that path, automatically flawed that path and automatically title those photos over that path. Once you've got all that data, you can upload it into the Cloud on the list servers and now crunch the daughter and shoot out a whole bunch of really helpful insights will cool Inflammation. One of those cool things that they can do is a three-day map of the environments. I think about Google Earth, not the street view about actual Google Earth and the three-dimensional Google. Something like this. You can actually generate that kind of thing yourself of whatever area you choose to fly on this, I obviously don't do it in the middle of a city bought. If your house is out on a farm or you want to do a lake or forest or something like that, you can definitely do that with this application. You choose the air you want. It'll automatically create a flat path, let it fly over that path and take photos. Then you upload that data to their servers in the Cloud. And that produces a 3D map automatically for you. So it's pretty cool, little utility to play around with and types and phone width. And also obviously has a lot of business sides to it. And that's why they focus on, as I said, most of it is a tide service, but you can do some free tinkering around with it as well. But the businesses that do want to actually pay for it, you can get some pretty fantastic results. And this can be for things like agriculture or construction, where you surveying the actual construction side of the food or crops that you're actually growing. But it can also be things like morning and agriculture, mining and aggregates, and also insurance inspections. So you've got, as an example, maybe hurricanes come in and destroy this huge beach area. You need to survive. Ten hectare section of land or infrastructure or whenever I'm on Bay datatype you a huge amount of tunnel mode. But you can just easily plot the drawing and look at the whole thing in full three-day very, very quickly. So there are lots of cool things to do with it as well as practical applications for businesses. And as I said, it's mostly a paid service, but they're awesome. Few free stuff there as well. None of these applications have pygmy decide any of this. This is just my own personal experience in tinkering around with downloading lots and lots of different applications and having applied with them and seeing which ones work best. And that being said, these three applications might not work best in your area, especially the UID full cost. And all that sort of daughter was very location dependent. Obviously, if you're already there a different country to Australia or may not be as accurate or even have data on your location. But it's not sort of top of app that I find very helpful. The weather and location dot or no fly zone apps, the toilet, so the stuff together, so you might not necessarily use the UAV forecast application, but you might use one that's very similar to it. So those are the main types of applications that you should really have a look at. Four of them play with mixed up o going into the section which covers accessories, I'll talk to you then. 47. Section 10 - 2 - Accessories: And welcome to the second section on accessories. Sorry. In this section, I don't want to go into every individual accessory out there and do a full review or anything like that on them. You can more than often not go on to YouTube or something like that and get a full in-depth review. There is a specific accessory that you want more information on. This section is more about his agenda, review for all the different accessories for each of the three drawings. And just to sort of make you aware of what's out there, some of the cool extra atoms you can get for the drawing. So easiest way to do this is to go onto the DJI website itself and look at the old category for each of the actual drawing. So starting with the Spock, We've got the Nimbus wireless controller, which is a little bit new, currently out of stock. Unfortunately, we've also got the actual controller itself for the Spark. If you scroll down here, you can see it here. The spark remote control. As I said, this was a, this is an excellent addition to have for the spark and suddenly got almost considered critically. Gesture controls itself. Two fantastic and controlling enter the foreign whilst he's a lot better, he severely limited by that IAD meter Wi-Fi signal that you get just using your phone, plus having the on-screen joysticks. As I said, there's a lot of information on the DJI app. And having your fingers over half of the screen on top of it. It's just way too much into graduate, in my opinion, and you're much better served using the actual remote control. Probably recommend buying that in the fly more combo if you are purchasing it rather than just the control law on itself. But you can also buy that separately if you don't care about having extra batteries in any of that sort of stuff. So I'm moving on. There's also the propeller gods, which are also fantastic, especially because the Spark is often used in the palm launch or landing, so that keeps your fingers from getting chopped off but damaged. It's also good if you're flying indoors and don't want to run into things and damage to the propellers. You've also got the intelligent flat batteries and 50 American dollars Nick, quite expensive, but this is the assignment for the maverick batteries as well. Quite expensive as well as the obviously phantom one's even more. But these are very high density factories and as I said, not done batteries on, just buying lithium ion. And that's the sort of thing that actually have control is inside them that have a lot of smarts and safety features and all these extra stuff with built-in, they even have their own firmware updates and all that sort of stuff. Sorry. Just done that. Trace the proximate still be a little bit high. 50 bucks for a torn or a little battery is quite an OSC bought. You didn't get a lot of extra flaw at time out of them. And obviously you can reuse them over and over again. So that's the flat batteries. You can also get the different types of cases that they have for the Spock, they've got quite a few. You can get much bigger backpacks and all that sort of stuff as well. You've got the filters for the Spark. So we've got filters for all the different types of drones. You can even have cool skin over the top of it if you really want. Apparently this now on day brands, which is a site that does skiing for mobile phones and that sort of stuff. Usually you can never get skins for things like the Spock and that they can all those other sorts of germs. If you want to have a fancy looking drawing, it's a bit unique sort of thing. You can go there or get one off the DJ and I sought itself moving on past old bags and all that filters and stuff, you can actually get a landing pads. This is a cool little portable and easy to use pad that just folds up into a little circle and then a falling out and spring and into a much bigger orange hela pad landing. I don't know, this is always super useful. I'm saying some people use them, obviously just land on grass or some concrete or something then collect that. I've never had too much trouble landing in places, but if you want a little orange healthy part of your own, you can now purchase it is also even more features as well. You can get the OTG cables for the goggles. You can get the DJI go Who's itself. So what these goggles are basically first-person view specialty goggles and you obviously put them on your head and put them on your eyes. And you get to fly in that first-person view. The actual goggles themselves are quite special because the telemetry and the video feed from the actual drawing gets streamed directly to the goggles itself. It doesn't go to the control and then you hook in a cable or something prohibition like that and actually streams the video feed directly to the goggles themselves. This also minimizes lag. As I said, you don't have stupid cables going everywhere. And it's also where that handy little feature of the two challenge comes in. So as I mentioned before with the remote controller on the app and describing the control of and drawing actually a two-channel. So one is for the video feed and one is for the controlling commands, for the actual drawing to the controlling commands go to the controller itself. The visual field goes to the goggles. I haven't tried it myself. They're quite expensive but they do pretty cool to use. So moving on again, you've got even more battery sleeves and Gogo slaves and all these other bits and pieces. You can get a tablet holder so that you can use a full-sized tablet with the actual Spock remote control that you can buy. And you've also got mounting brackets. Lots and lots of other site. That's the other thing with the filters. What they are for is if you're shooting directly into the sun or you're shooting quite often, the solid might be beating down on the ocean or reflective items on the actual ground. Water can actually do is filter out polarized, polarized lot and reduce that into lead. You get off reflective surfaces like water. On actual lands. It can be handy, especially for drawings. You can also get them for cameras as well. But for drawings that particularly useful because you're quite often looking down or during Sunday and there's lots of lots. That's what the filters of four, I'd probably recommend not getting them until you much better understand photography in it. Getting into all that sort of stuff and a bit more experienced in that regard. But it certainly thinking you can get from all of the drawings brought up to the magic and the phantom series, Lauren as well. So that's all the accessories for the Spock. You've obviously got your spares, such as propellers and extra cases or the actual Spark itself, you can entirely replace that really crashed into something pretty serious day. Jaya also have the care refresh stuff, which is the sort of extra k that you can have for the actual drone itself. So have you heard that I can replace it at a lower cost? And there's also one final accessory, which is the battery charging hubs. If you purchase something like the fly more combo, or perhaps you just pushes the drawing and then send an extra two or three factories. You can have this one hub that will actually charge all three countries simultaneously. It's not just a extra cool thing if you want to make you laugh a little bit easier. Moving on to the medic, we have all the specs and accessories and all that for the maverick, nomadic now has a few different versions. You've got the original medic per, you've got the medic per platinum, which increases flaunt time slightly and also makes it a lot less noisy. So what I did for the platinum is I actually changed and motors and the propeller blades to be a lot quieter. Now, there's a few reviews online stating that it's not, you know, they take a decibel sound measuring device and put it right next door, rather prior and then next to a maverick per platinum and measure the actual noise difference than it is less noisy, but it's not all that much. It's a few decibels, which is a decent amount, but not a huge amount. The main trick about the platinum is that the propellers are actually positioned and don't differently so that it actually shifts the point where the most noise is nine. And so it shifts the frequency where the noise is most prevalent from something that's a bit annoying and irritating to the human, e, to the a frequency that's not as irritating and we don't perceive it as being as loud, so it's both soft and quiet on from the murders and the actual noise itself. Let's also at a different frequency that makes it a lot better as well. And I've been told that the Platinum is actually quite a bit better than they are truly nothing parallel itself. So you can also get the white edition. I don't know if this is just a Christmas thing that they're doing or if it'll be coming to other drawings as well. But that's essentially the same as the other one said. You've got all the fly more combos for each of them. Again, you've got the goggles and this is the race. In addition one, you've got the DJI care as well. You've of course got the spare batteries similar to the Spark or white spare battery or spray propellers. You also have the car charger, which is unique. And Aquafina, you get this in the fly more combo. And it's very handy, especially if you're going on word trips. Obviously, when we went to awesome, We're dropping all around the country. So we quite often didn't have an actual PowerPoint inside a house, some way to charge the batteries out. So it's fantastic to just be able to plug it into the car and charge up one battery at the time. As you're driving around, the challenges are quite quickly to him, about an hour, hour and a half sort of thing. The battery will completely charged. That's quite quick and certainly very handy to have. You've also got the medic battery charging hub, which charges up to four batteries. Now, this one, unlike the spot, the spot who charge all batteries simultaneously, the maverick charge in Kabul charging them one at a time. So whichever one you put on first, it'll just start charging instantly. That is, put more batteries are random. It will fully charged first one, then fully charge the second 1, third 1, and so on and so forth. But all it is is a little square device that you plug your original charger cable into and then you can charge for them. So it is very handy. I use it all the time for the three boundaries that all have aromatic PR. In a great addition to the flood more combo itself. Again, you've got the battery to power bank adapter. And this is a very small device that I showed before. And it's fantastic to be able to connect one or two phones too. And one of the magic per batteries, when you connect it to it, could probably charge true phones completely before I will actually just as powerful as if you were to plug your phone into a wall. So it's very, very handy again on word trip. So even if you're just flying overseas or something like that, It's just a handy little thing to throw you back with it. Moving on, you've got a more powerful battery charger. You've got the medic per, propel the gods, as well as the propeller cage. Sorry, the propeller cage is slightly different obviously to the gods. The gods dollar in a sort of half circle around the actual papilla is to protect them from things protruding sideways in the propellant cages actually entice the whole thing. Full 360, sorry, stuff coming on top or outdoor on the sides or something. Still get protected. Propellers still get protected. Protected. Protected. Sorry, I thought everything on we again have the skins or the landing pad you can get you can get replacement gimbal covers or sling bags. Slaves for your DJI goggles, which are the same as before for the Spark, you can also get battery sleep bags. You can get replacement remote controllers, and you can also get hoods. So the hood is fourth the actual control law and it'll go, or if rid of block out as much sunlight as possible. So you can actually see the screen on your phone or on the controller nasa easily. It is a very good thing to have. Considering your Adams summed quite often when you're shooting videos and playing with your drawer and bought. It depends on how bright your actual mobile phone screen gets and whether it really bothers you that lunch. So that's another option. Again, you've got the ND filters as well. You've got a couple of different sets depending on what 48 or 16 level you want from them. Moving on again, obviously give you some microSD cards that you can use for it. You've got some lens hoods, or again, the tablet holder, similar to the Spark, so that you can actually get a bigger screen on your phone. You've also got some other kind of non-related stuff such as hard drives or memory card cases, all that stuff. Whether you want to buy that from DJI, it's up to you. The magic shoulder bag as I showed before is fantastic. You've also got Spock or medic shoulder bag and lots of other different ones that we're showing in this box section as well. This should give you a good idea of all the different types of accessories for both Spock and dramatic. As I said, I don't want to go into every single one of them. You can easily Google in yourself if you want more information on each of them. But I just wanted to go through them very quickly to give you an idea of what else is out there. You might have just bought Maverik and all you got was the actual medic, medic itself. And you might be having a really hard time seeing the screen because of the sunlight. You might have no idea that you can buy food for it that will solve your problem like that. So this is just to show you very quickly all the different bits and pieces that you can volume. You don't necessarily have to follow them from DJI. And we'll see how some of the best stuff, sorry, moving on to the phantom full section. Once again, we've got all the other similar stuff. You've got different versions of it, sort of PR or the advanced version which have different sections. You've got extra propellers, you've got the high density version, battery and the low density version, sorry, the black version. And you have again charging hubs for you've got COD charges, you've got higher power charges. You've got extra cables and propel a Dodds and different types of little bits and pieces. The goggles, the battery, I'm safe bags, different types of hoods for different types of control is whether you're using a full size tablet or a smaller phone. And you have slightly more expensive filters as they get bigger and bigger, they get more expensive. Again, SD cards control it strikes as well. You can have. So this is because the theta series control, it is quite a bit more bulky than the medic per control. I guess if you've got a full size control over the full size tablet, I can start to get a bit heavy after half an hour and they are flying site for operand and seven holding there. It also means obviously you don't drop it. That's what the strips can be useful for. You've got bags and got beautiful custom designed hard case backpacks that you can fold up your drone folder be drone, but put all little bits and pieces into which are fantastic, especially if you're hitting overseas. And you've got different colors. And in a true advanced remote controller itself, if you want to actually have the built-in screen on the controller or destroy replacement normal controller. Again, very similar bunch of accessories for all three drawings, but just different ones. If you want to buy an ND filter, it's gonna be different for phantom series which have bigger cameras on them. This is the magic series, which obviously I have small ones and seven for the Spark as well. Different accessories for different drones and lots and lots of different things that you can get it for them. That's just a very quick overview of all the accessories that are available. There's even more than a half from talked about and I want to bore you too much. But you can go out to third party websites which will be covered in a minute and see what I have on offer. A lot of them are very similar, but, you know, it's might be cheaper or something because this node fixture, DJI, merchandise for instance, like the normal, healthy pad phone app, orange map that you can get them, show them you can get that for much cheaper if it's not a DJI endorsed one thought. When you went to farmers up to you, That's a quick overview of all the different accessories that you can have and where you can keep it from. Next topic we'll go into the final section, which is just on websites and forums and communities. I'll talk to you then. 48. Section 10 - 3 - Communities And Websites: Hey guys and welcome to the final, final section of this course, which is about communities and forums. Sorry, similar to letting you know about all the set of potty or DJI accessories out there. I just wanted to quickly cover some of the DJI as well as the party websites and forums and places that you can get even more information. So I know I've covered a huge amount of stuff in this course, but invariably there's going to be tiny questions of, oh, I've got a medic Pro and it's headed for two years and it's during this particular thing and I get this particular error code. I can't answer all those questions about. I can show you where to get the answers from the very first place I would go and I had any type of issue and wanted to good well-documented ends out would be the DJI forum itself. So you can see it here. It's just under forum.DJI.com. You can go to your spark or maverick or phantom section, whichever drawing you have and you've already got an account because you use the DJI application. So you can just post away and ask your question on here. And there's lots of people on this form because it creates an account that has a DJI drone. So there's lots of people that interact and will hopefully answer your question very quickly. If it's a really specific one that no one has an answer to, the DJI form is actually an even better place because they're on DJI employees that can sit in an ACL question as well. So you can actually have experts that are built and designed the actual drawing and certain requested. And so that's a great place to start if you have any specific questions or if you just want to go and chat with people that like flying drones, just like you do. So that's the first place I go. The next stop, I would suggest is a third party forum, which is one of the biggest ones at the which is for the drones, sir. If we head on over to drone pilot.com, sorry, during pilot dot zone where you can say that they actually have multiple different networks. So if you're a phantom pilot, your Lucy go to the phantom section reviewer, nomadic pile, you will go to the Magic section. I'm not aware of them having a spark section yet, and hopefully that does come in time. If we go to the phantom, it's displayed in pilots.com and S2 Maddox, it'll be medic pilots.com. But they are a huge form with lots and lots and lots of people asking lots and lots of questions and answering lots of questions as well. So that's a fantastic site where you can go to to ask those are the questions, perhaps not getting an answer on the day, Joe, I want or you've got some other thing types. It's a third party LacI app integration when DJI thing or whatever, it might be, too huge, huge forums that you should most definitely get your answers from if you have specific questions. Or just too great places to go and chat with people who obviously loved joins. The next one is not a forum, but it's actually a website. This is drone DJI.com. And this is just a new site that will tell you all the latest information about the latest products or latest news about drones, in particular, DJI drones. I will show you new features or new software, things that assumed to come in. Types of new hidden functions that people find or room is for new teacher had products that are coming up with the standard and you saw it. But it's all about digital I stuff in drawings, in particular. Some of the websites that I'd suggest having a look I reviewed looking for even more information or just information in general and drones and want to keep up with the lightest. And that's pretty much it for the course. I hope I've covered everything can answered all your questions if you are at flying your drone during please. Besides, I'd also recommend dialing up, flowing the joining a few times and then coming back and re-watching some of these videos, things like the DJI go at section is quite complicated as a huge array of things that I covered it and familiarize people, especially beginners when they watch something like that. It's just impossible to taking all that information in just one go. So I got to have a fly get more experienced with the basic phages, flying up and down during certain camera moves. Then come back and watch it again. And I'm sure you'll learn even more because you might know half the staff, but then you can pay attention to the other half of the video and learn even more stuff. So do come back and watch him again. And I hope that you've really enjoyed the course. I've enjoyed making it for you. If you want to have a look at some other courses, just feel free to go and have a look. But this is pretty much it for this DJI drone ultimate course. And I hope you've learned a lot. I will talk to you next time. See you later. 49. Section 11 - 1 - Battery Overview And Care: Welcome to this section on the intelligent flat batteries. This is a bit of partners content for you out there. I thought I'd just covered this to try allow people to be a bit more aware about the battery and get as much use out of that battery unless the drone for as long as possible. This first section is just a general overview and how to take care of the actual bedroom. The very first thing to note is that they are called intelligent flat batteries. As I've said before, for a reason, I not only have the lithium ion cells, multiple cells inside them, but I also have an actual control on border and I see control integrated like a controller on board. And you can know this by usually a bachelor would just have the positive and negative. But you can say on this one that it's got multiple channels. And there might be true for positive and negative and maybe one for granted, this steel more than that on there. And that's because it actually sends and receives data to and from the drawing itself. This is Dada, unlike the status of the battery, the temperature that voltage levels of each of the cells inside the actual battery, the signal to turn on and often lots of other information. The battery actually communicates to the drawing. And because of this, I have their phone width that you need to update as I've said. And once you do firmware updates, you want to swap out your batteries and putting your honest feedback treason radio the firmware updates to make sure that the ideas done as well. But in general, when you want to take care of this battery, you need to know a bit about it. And one of the first things is that you can actually turn them on independently of the drawing. So you can always check the battery percentage, but you can actually turn them on. And this boundary is now on, even though it's not connected to the journey itself. And this is good for when you want to connect up that pow bang conductor and then plugged to a foreign intuitive music. Love to turn it on to actually let the charge go to Florida and actually start charging it up. So that's one of the things that you should know about them. Another thing about them is that you don't want to charge them directly off to use. If you can imagine if flying your drawing around and you're flying and you've been near for about 25 minutes and it's a beautiful sunny day and maybe it's 25 degrees or 30 degrees Celsius outside. Your drawing itself is going to get a bit warm. You battery is gonna get even hold on. It's not only discharging lithium ion cells, which itself generates hate, but it's also a rotten next to all these highly compact computer stuff that is going to be heating up in itself. So you battery is going to be quite warm once you're done actually flowing, you don't want to pull it out of your drawing and just stick it straight into your children. Start charging up again because they're very sensitive to heat and being charged or discharged when they quiet home. The first thing is that what you want to know is, as I said, taken out of your drawing, let it sit for 20 or 30 minutes till it comes down to room temperature, 2025 degrees Celsius, then start charging once it's cool to the touch and just feels normal, stop charging it and it'll greatly increase the life of your actual. So that's one thing that you want to be aware of. The next thing is if you ever stopped to see bulges in it. So you can see here it's perfectly flat here. There's no bulging happening from the cells inside the battery. I mean, this is hot plastic on the outside of this area are probably isn't going to bulge bought in here. You've got more soft plastic on here. Sorry. You're probably say the bulging happening. Or like sorry. If you say that bulging happening, my advice to you is to simply just throw it out. The Patriot is damaged the lithium ion cells inside, obviously expanding something wrong with them. I may be punctured, but more importantly, throw it out because if it's bulging down here, it may not sit properly in your actual drawing, maybe try and put it on, which means these points here, contact properly with the drone. Months dot flying and daily. But then halfway through, maybe some vibrations happen or maybe their factory actually explodes and gives y after it's got too much pressure on it. Well, maybe just disconnects. Maybe the IC circuitry inside the battery files. There's many different things that could go wrong if the battery is already showing signs of degradation and having that bulging effect, simply throw it out because what can happen is your entire drawing can fall out of the skull and made flight because of the filing battery. You know what, I may losing the $50 or $75. Oh sorry that a costumer replace one of these battery, but also the thousands of dollars that are potentially cost to replace your drawing. Sorry, I know it's a hard thing decided to throw at, you know, 5060, $70, how much, whichever bacteria you have costs. But it's really not worth it. It's much better to pay the 50 bucks, get a new battery and continue flowing through the old one out, That's damage. And besides from the knowledge that you're flying with a new proper safe battery that isn't going to destroy your drawer halfway through flying. So that's one of the main things that I want you to remember when it comes to about trays. Next up is something that I really don't think I should have to tell people, but some people do things that are silly. And that is if that have two batteries in their flying and the first factories finished now lambda door and just pull up the battery and then put in the second batch rate and try and fly off again. You need to shut down the drawing first. Anytime when you're switching out batteries, we need to turn the journal fully, let it do its proper shutdown procedure, then pull the battery, I put the new one in and then start it back up again. As I said, I didn't think I should really have to say this, but just in case this is something you've been doing placed on during it, you shouldn't be doing this to any electronics, whether it be drone or computer. Otherwise, computers need to have their proper shutdown procedure. Generally, startup procedure. If you keep doing this, corrupt firmware can damage the electronics plot. King, pulling out the battery while the tongue can actually create spots and damage the physically damage the circuits. Lots of things that can go wrong and only takes a nap five seconds mole to manually shut down and turn off the drawing first, then remove the battery, put second one and start it back up again and properly. Sorry. Those are just a couple of things about carrying fuel battery and also by extension your drone. In the next section we'll go onto how to make these lost as long as possible. Because as I said that 5060, $70, that quite expensive batteries. You don't want to just be find all the things you bought from the grocery store. They're quite expensive. So you want me to last as long as possible. So in the next part of this bonus content, are we talking about making sure your batteries last? I'll talk to you then. 50. Section 11 - 2 - Making Sure Your Batteries Last: Guarding Your welcome to the second section, which is making sure your batteries lost. So as I said, these things are not cheap. Two-dollar batteries from the grocery store, and I can cost upwards of 5060, $7,100 depending on where you are and what currency you are using. You just want to buy and Toro alive and you're personally would like to use this for as long as possible, pay good money for it. You want to get good use out of it. That being said, you don't want to be wasteful. So in order to make a battery lost, one of the best things that I can suggest for you to do is make sure that you only use it between the sections of 2080 per cent. So imagine this is 100%. You only want to discharge it to at most 20, 30% usage before you shut the drawing down, land at short-lived drone down and pull it out and start charging you. Similarly, if you can try to only charge it up to about 80 or 90%, most tom take it off charge and then actually fly with it. Yes, this does reduce how much time you get to actually fly. And once in a while, if you want to fly for long ago, by all means you can charge it up to a 100%. It's not going to damage the actual battery. Likewise, if you fly rod down teen or five or 10% or possibly 0, they do have a built-in reserve inside the bacteria to sort of safeguard against it, sorry, what? It reports as 0% isn't actually 0%. They still charge in the battery to help protect it. Lithium ion batteries really gets severely damaged if you drain them, wrought down to 0. So it will basically never allowing you to do that through the intelligent plot controls inside of another, if you can keep it between that 2080 per cent for most of its life, for most of the time that you use it, if you'll out just having fun flying. What does it really matter if you have 26 minutes and slot time or 23 minutes of flawed Tong, probably not that much in urine. Some important wedding photography or videography shirt then by all means charged modal a 100%. It's fine. You're not going to damage it bought overall, you want to try and keep it in that 20%, 80 percent range. This isn't just for drawing batteries, lithium ion technology battery. So similarly, a phone or your laptop. It's not something that's often easy to do. A lot of applications just charged and it's brought up to 100%, drain them brought to 0. Whether that's because they want you to go on bottom all about trees and damage them quick off her eyes. But it's something you can be mindful love to do. And just make sure that you keep it between about 2000 keys the same. It's been proven scientifically number of times and that prolongs the loss of the battery the most. This is also true for things like electric cause and many other devices that I'm sure I can't name. Sorry. Beyond that, one of the other most important things is temperature. As I was saying before, you don't want to pull it out when it's really hot off to you've been flying and jamming and stop charging it straightaway, you want to let it cool down and the normal room temperature of 20 to 25 degrees Celsius before we start challenging it. If you actually store it for just maybe a few days or a week or something in-between way of flowing. You want to store it in a nice, cool, dry place that's dark and not indirect sunlight. There'll be hating it up an extra 20 degrees constantly. You also want to make sure those drawing you only get them wet. Just keep the temperature as close as you can to that 20 to 25 degree mock. And on top of this, one of the other main tips that I can give that a lot of people tend to do is they will take their drawing and especially with the medic or the spot because they also have small, they'll be tempted to put them in the car. And what they do is they throw them in the boot or in the glovebox or something like locked down or on the backside even they keep it in the car long-term or maybe for Waco, something like while they're driving grand and going into all these different places and what can happen is you're shooting during photography, it's pretty safe bet that it's gonna be a nice sunny brought die. And she usually translates to hot temperatures, even if it's 30 degrees outside, which is arguably 230 degrees Celsius, this is occasionally get up to 40 or 50 inside the car. And if it's inside the boot, it can be even worse if it's inside the car itself, looking at the sun beating down on it. If it's inside a bag, there's no airflow. It gets even hotter. Imagine what talk of temperature this battery could get up to if it was inside the leather bag inside a car. When it's 3035 degrees outside with the sunshine, hours and hours and hours. And just like you wouldn't believe a dog in a car and that situation definitely get that tree. And by extension of drawing in a cough that such that period of time or that sort of situation, ana, it's going to severely damage your battery getting onto 4050 or even 60 degrees in the battery. It's literally like taking it back to him, throwing in oven and cooking. It is not gonna be good for the battery. It can significantly reduce the amount of cycles at the battery. You can have them discharging charging In. This can just be one or two-day thing. Were you driving your random you keep the drawing in the back seat while you're driving around. The Outback of Australia are awesome. What you call it road trip, feel contrary. And three are contrary. And it will permanently damage your battery. So it is a significant thing to be careful when you get out of your car. Take your drawing, we do. Keep it inside, keep it in a cool, dark place. The final thing that you can do to make sure that your battery lasts is obviously not use it now. It will have a certain amount of discharge cycles, VNet, so challenging it up and discharging them down. And unfortunately it's a bit unavoidable. If you don't use it, then you don't discharge it and often and last longer using it so you can't really get a random too much. But the main thing is to remember, don't let it get too hot or too cold or in any extreme temperatures like that. You do that if you treat it appropriately and keep it in drawing cool places, it should lost many, many hundreds of cycles, which should hopefully make many, many years of use on your drawing. Even if you buy all these rules, it will still gradually get lower and lower and lower. And probably after a few years needs to be replaced. Maybe by the end you'll add a new drawing. Who knows? Or maybe you just pay an extra 5060 bucks and get a new replacement battery. But either way, you will have made your battery last as long as possible. In the next section, I just wanted to cover even more about the boundaries. So I'll talk to you. 51. Section 11 - 3 - Long Term Storage Of Batteries: Hey guys, and welcome to this final section, which is only long-term storage of these batteries. So does ended the case that you're going away for a long period of time and you know about it. So long period is something like three to four weeks or more. And you want to put these things into storage. Again, you want to make sure wherever you are putting them is cool. Dry dock place. You want to make sure it's somewhere in the house, has a very stable temperature, 2520 degrees Celsius. It doesn't vary much from that may be under grand or in the basement area or something like that is probably best to make sure that the temperature zones that they stay, stays very stable and doesn't fluctuate up to 40 or 50 degrees for some reason. That's the first. The second is to make sure that the charge is sufficient. So you want to put it at least in the 50 to 70, 80% range. And the reason for this is that if you have a bachelor in units of 10% or 5%, or even 15% or something like that. And you stored in OSS cool place and then Gypsy it off to somewhere or go away for a month, alter the battery is gonna get affected by a thing called vampire drawing, which is where it just very slowly drains industry, even though you're not using the venturi, it'll still lose its charge gradually on avatar. This marked a font percent every week or two, but eventually you feel gone long enough and it is low enough to begin with. It's got to get to 0. That's not necessarily a horrible thing because as I said, these batteries quite intelligent By have built-in safety reserves to make sure that the bachelor never truly gets to 0%. I want to report that it's 0% is actually still some left in it does not telling you about. But if you leave this alone for low enough that manpower drying boost still keep draining older pasta 0 and take out that safety margin of a drain. And what will happen then is that it will join to absolute 0, which is incredibly, incredibly bad for lithium ion batteries. You don't ever want them to drain down to 0 and it can permanently damage them to the point where you can't actually use them again, sometimes you don't want to leave these on a very large charged like ten or 15% or anything teething close to that. If you're going away from maybe two or even three months and you know, you're not going to be touching it, put it slightly high, maybe 75 or 80% or even 90% charge. So it's got a lot of safety module two draining down and still not heat absolute 0. That's the main point about storing them long-term is that just played show and I've gotten enough challenging them, so they'd already kept permanently destroyed. The time you get back. Once you do get it back, pull them out of storage. Make sure that they've got a basin charge on them. Put them in your drawing and start the drawing up inside your house. Make sure you check them for any film weight updates or anything like that. You'll probably be doing this for the drawing itself as well. Downloading the lightest firmware update on shore within a three-month period, there'll be some firmware or software update from DJI, they bring them out. So often these days, this again, doesn't matter which type of battery you have. Same thing applies for old lithium ion technology batteries. So this is exactly the same. Even things like electric cars or mobile phone or laptop, or lithium ion batteries. You should not have in to high temperatures or charge them when they're really halt or any of that sort of stuff you want to try and keep them at room temperature that 2025 degrees Celsius as often as possible, especially maybe challenging them, especially when he's storing them. They should hopefully lost a lot tougher for many, many years. And even when you store them long term, That's the last of the bonus content section. Hope you enjoyed it and learned a little bit more about your battery and therefore your drawings as well. Once again, thank you for watching this course.