DJI Drones: How To Become The Ultimate Pilot | Alex Shoolman | Skillshare

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DJI Drones: How To Become The Ultimate Pilot

teacher avatar Alex Shoolman, Teacher to thousands in 175 countries!

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Promo Video


    • 2.

      Section 1 - Welcome


    • 3.

      Section 1 - Special Note For Mavic Air Owners


    • 4.

      Section 2 - 1 - The Differences Between Drones


    • 5.

      Section 2 - 2 - Setting Up Your Drone


    • 6.

      Section 2 - 3 - The Fly More Combo Packages


    • 7.

      Section 3 - 1 - Spatial Awareness


    • 8.

      Section 3 - 2 - The Most Common Ways People Crash


    • 9.

      Section 3 - 3 - Flying Inside


    • 10.

      Section 3 - 4 - The Gimbal


    • 11.

      Section 4 - 1 - The Mavic Pro Controller


    • 12.

      Section 4 - 2 - The Spark Controller


    • 13.

      Section 4 - 3 - The Phantom Controller


    • 14.

      Section 5 - 1 - Setting Up The DJI App


    • 15.

      Section 5 - 2 - DJI App Overview - Downgraded For SkillShare


    • 16.

      Section 5 - 3 - Firmware Updates


    • 17.

      Section 6 - 1 - Personal Safety


    • 18.

      Section 6 - 2 - More Serious Safety Concerns


    • 19.

      Section 6 - 3 - How To Find Your Country's Laws


    • 20.

      Section 6 - 4 - Some Common Law Examples


    • 21.

      Section 6 - 5 - No Fly Zones


    • 22.

      Section 7 - 1 - Flying Preparation


    • 23.

      Section 7 - 2 - Taking Off And Landing


    • 24.

      Section 7 - 3 - Basic Flying Maneuvers


    • 25.

      Section 7 - 4 - Intermediate Flying Maneuvers


    • 26.

      Section 8 - 1 - Intelligent Flight Modes


    • 27.

      Section 8 - 2 - 1 - Awesome Flight Modes You Really Should Use - QuickShot Mode


    • 28.

      Section 8 - 2 - 2 - Awesome Flight Modes You Really Should Use - ActiveTrack Mode


    • 29.

      Section 8 - 2 - 3 - Awesome Flight Modes You Really Should Use - Waypoints Mode


    • 30.

      Section 8 - 2 - 4 - Awesome Flight Modes You Really Should Use - Point Of Interest Mode


    • 31.

      Section 8 - 2 - 5 - Awesome Flight Modes You Really Should Use - Gesture Mode


    • 32.

      Section 8 - 3 - 1 - Flight Modes That Are Pretty Good - Tripod Mode


    • 33.

      Section 8 - 3 - 2 - Flight Modes That Are Pretty Good - Terrain Follow Mode


    • 34.

      Section 8 - 3 - 3 - Flight Modes That Are Pretty Good - TapFly Mode


    • 35.

      Section 8 - 3 - 4 - Flight Modes That Are Pretty Good - Draw Mode


    • 36.

      Section 8 - 4 - 1 - Flight Modes That Are Old Or Not Very Useful - Home Lock Mode


    • 37.

      Section 8 - 4 - 2 - Flight Modes That Are Old Or Not Very Useful - Course Lock Mode


    • 38.

      Section 8 - 4 - 3 - Flight Modes That Are Old Or Not Very Useful - Follow Me Mode


    • 39.

      Section 8 - 4 - 4 - Flight Modes That Are Old Or Not Very Useful - Cinematic Mode


    • 40.

      Section 8 - 5 - 1 - Other Flight Modes - Sports Modes


    • 41.

      Section 8 - 5 - 2 - Other Flight Modes - Fixed-Wing Mode


    • 42.

      Section 9 - 1 - Basic Photo Composition


    • 43.

      Section 9 - 2 - Lighting And Direction


    • 44.

      Section 9 - 3 - Advanced Aerial Shots


    • 45.

      Section 9 - 4 - Panoramas, Photo Spheres And Advanced Photo Settings


    • 46.

      Section 10 - 1 - 3rd Party Software


    • 47.

      Section 10 - 2 - Accessories


    • 48.

      Section 10 - 3 - Communities And Websites


    • 49.

      Section 11 - 1 - Battery Overview And Care


    • 50.

      Section 11 - 2 - Making Sure Your Batteries Last


    • 51.

      Section 11 - 3 - Long Term Storage Of Batteries


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About This Class

Get your drone up and flying within hours, capture those silky smooth, aerial cinematic videos you've all seen and learn how to avoid the most common mistakes pilots make.

This comprehensive course covers everything a beginner needs to know about their drone as well as heaps of detailed information for seasoned pilots too. It's the perfect way to get started quickly and know how to fly safely so you can use aerial footage in all your creative projects.

Compatible With

  • DJI Spark
  • DJI Mavic Pro
  • DJI Mavic 2 Pro/Zoom
  • DJI Phantom 4 Drones
  • Also great for the DJI Mavic Air or Phantom 3 series drones!

What Students Are Saying

"Excellent explanations! I’m very excited with this course. I’ve learned new things and it's very useful. Thank you very much for such a great job." - Aurelian

"The instructor puts everything very simply, following a logical order which is very applicable in practice. The explanations are for those who have never flown a drone before or for those who are attempting their first flight and are a bit scared (my case!). Highly recommended. The instructor speaks English very clearly, without the use of slang or mannerisms, which makes everything very clear for those who only have a medium understanding of the language. (Translated from Portuguese)" - Carlos

Course Description

  • Fly with confidence
  • Fly safely and within your laws
  • Fly without crashing or damaging your new drone
  • Get silky smooth, cinematic videos, even if you're a beginner!
  • Get a great value course with heaps of base and advanced content

DJI Drones: How To Become The Ultimate Pilot is brought to you by Alex, an Australian finance and technology writer that has been helping people crush their mortgages as well learn and get the best out of technology for over 5 years.

This material is covered with simple steps and clear demonstrations of how to fly. With hours and hours of one on one videos comprised of 50 sections you'll learn exactly what buttons to press and the best way to use your drone.

This course could very easily save you THOUSANDS of dollars by preventing you from crashing your drone or damaging it long term by doing the wrong thing. Best of all, this course will be with you right from the basics, all the way up to advanced flying modes and tips on how to perform cinematic video recording, panoramas and more.

What You Will Get

  • 8.5+ Hours of Practical And Flying Videos
  • Confidence that you know how to fly within the law
  • A dedicated section on how to avoid crashing or damaging your drone
  • A huge advantage over everyone else that will get you flying your drone fast
  • The new ability to produce gorgeous, professional grade videos and photos
  • Not just vague descriptions but specific, step-by-step instructions that cover everything

What You Will Learn

  • Why flying indoors often results in new pilots crashing their drone
  • How to get those silky smooth videos that everyone loves to watch, even if you're new
  • Special points that are unique to your drone on how to avoid long term damage
  • The specifications of your drone and how complex they really are
  • The reason there are so many restrictions on drones and where you can fly them
  • A huge mistake many pilots make when storing their drone in the car and how to avoid it
  • How to fly your drone to get the best videos and why most people fail
  • What other great 3rd party apps are out there to get the most out of your drone

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Alex Shoolman

Teacher to thousands in 175 countries!


Hi, I'm Alex Shoolman.

I've helped people across 170+ countries pay off their mortgage in under 10 years with amazing results. Thousands have read my material to learn how to improve their life for the better.

From discovering the latest key developments in Energy & Transport to learning how to automate your finances or get the most out of your DJI Drone. I teach how you can take advantage of new technology as well as prepare for the future. This isn't just with Skillshare classes, but with dozens of free guides that you can find on my main website:


Check out my How To Pay Off A Mortgage Early course and learn why paying a $400,000 mortgage off in 10 years instead of 30 will save you $400,... See full profile

Level: Beginner

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1. Promo Video: I'm Alex from alec schulman dot com and welcome to this fantastic course on D. J. I'm a finance and technology writer and teacher who's been doing this for over five years. I've taught students from 170 countries and had thousands of people raid more material to better their lives in many different in this course off teaching about many different things, along with safety hatching, get up and flying super quickly. How to get photos. Videos for your drive haven't actually crush. You'll be out to get those silky, smooth cinematic videos that ever lost. Watch withdraw whilst at the same time making sure you, David, for my own sake, you other people as a quick over here. This course contains general information about the drone of technology inside a comprehensive review about control. The application burns itself drug laws as well. Safety mentioned. Those contains a dedicated section to make sure that you know all the information that how to avoid damaging our It also goes toe basic as well as advanced flying maneuvers with actual how to step by step for years, showing you allow the control moves and everything like that, and finally that doesn't miss the photography and video section to make sure that you get gorgeous. His course was designed around the three main D. J R drugs, which is the spark magic full part If you have another drink from Day J, or even a different during manufacturer, this course will be very, very helpful for still, but it is designed mainly for those three. You can not only get up in the within hours by taking this course. We also learned about key features that will help you really get the most out of your door . So in Rome, there and become an ultimate you. 2. Section 1 - Welcome: Hey, go. I'm Alex from alec shulman dot com. And welcome to this fantastic course all about D. J R drones. No, when talking to most people that don't own a drawing to have a lot of questions about that fast all day, how long did they last in the do they take? Photos have powerful was the camera you know, expensive, But there's lots of questions, but two people that actually only drive one of the main points that by encounter, especially with people who just bought them, is they have quite a bit of fear off flying them for the first time. Now D. J. Germans in particular, can be quite expensive, this one with the final combo other than Australia. So it cost me upwards off $2000. A lot of money. That's understandable that if you have a float adjourned before, it could be quite daunting. You know, you might fly into a trade. You mind do something wrong that you know where often could fall out of the sky. There could be no fault of your own. Lady Bird just slides into it, proof that goes all your thousands of dollars crashing down around you. So it's very understandable that people are nervous about flying their drones for the first time. That's actually one of the main goals off. This course is actually to make you aware of all the things that you need to know to be confident. Flyer. So that used to go out there for the very first time I know in the back of the head that okay with this, I know all. I need to know exactly what I need to do, what I shouldn't do to make sure that by safe and that I don't go waste thousands of dollars there. That's one of the girls. There are five total goals to this course. The other main goals are 2nd 1 which is to make sure that you are fully aware of all the details. So to make sure that you know how powerful memories, how fast the during country go all the different features and specifications and just generally answering all those questions that new people that may or may not have a job to have about their drug or other drones. The third golf course is to make sure that you're a safe and legal pilot So this is a couple of things. It is making sure that you know where the laws are for your country and had a abide by what they are, but also making sure that you know you don't get hit by these propellers like actually a bit of damage. Pick it up improperly, especially while it's on. And also it's a few other people as well. If your drone falls out of the sky very seriously injured people, even worse it over cars, buildings. So that's going on three. The fourth goal is to make sure that you're using it to force potential. A lot of people, especially these days with technology they buy it. They have a fancy toy and really have no idea how to use it. They might use it to fly up and down, back and forth. You know that's about it. Although buy an expensive iPhone, just use it estimates or something like that. It's not really using it to its forced potential, especially with something like a drone, which could be multiple thousands of dollars on a Make sure that you're using your drone to its force potential on getting your money's worth out of it. And the final goal off the course is to make sure that you understand how to take proper photos and videos with your drawing. A lot of people were the main reasons they buy drones is to take very nice videos, holiday shots, all that sort of things. So I'll be covering how toe take good photos, videos and the differences between when taking a video or a photo when the camera versus doing with George, there are considerable differences and also things you can control time control with various different things and how to get around them. So they're the five main goals of the course, and to do that will be going through a number of different sections off course. So just to give you a brief outline off the sections that will be to come. The very 1st 1 is just giving general specs and herbal information about the drones or control is the differences between getting you up to speed with all the lingo? Three letter acronyms pull that sort of stuff. The section after that will be a special, dedicated section, making sure that you're really confident for doing that first flight a little sort of tips and tricks. They have a lot of things in the manual, but is also a lot of other things that they don't tell you that that actually quite important. One of them is, for instance, flying inside. It's actually quite a dangerous thing to do, especially if you've never flown your drawing before. Many people think that it's safer. Option inside is safe from the outside, but it's actually the opposite. So avoid that from Mary Began and that sexual make sure that you're confident when you go out there for the first time in your knowing what you should. What should you do when you saw your turn? The third section will cover the controllers. So both the Spark and Medic controls, as well as the Phantom Serious controls, will also cover the deejay I at, which is actually quite complicated when you really dig into its simple to use but has a lot of settings and things that are good to know about the future, so we'll cover them. Animal also cover. As I said, safety laws had more time herself will find your laws and go over a few examples of the more popular countries like a Meritor. And what if your during pilot there, you need to do it after that, once we got you up to speed with the drone is what controller is what the app is. All the information surrounding it will be going through actual flying drones. So simple things from taking off all the way right up to using the advanced intelligent birds to do or let it fly. And even how to use multiple, you know, joystick Kember combinations to get best results. So once have gone through that section the final sections generally, about, as I said, taking photos and videos from making a difference. Also, accessories that deejay have that party accessories party software options that you can use but to control the drone and also a good extract applications to have on top of the deejay go up and also communities forms where to get more information. You store more part of other bits and pieces, so that's a brief overview of what the course will entail. And before we go any further, I just want to make a note that because there are so many drones that deejay produce, it would be extremely talk consuming for me toe go through all this information with each and every single drug would just take me for ever know that bore you to tears. So for the owners of the deejay sparked and magic Per, please pay attention to when I do demonstrations with Maverick The control is a very similar on any differences between sparking a medical point out, make sure you're aware off and also beginning proof demonstrations with teachers, the flying off demonstrations flying up and down All those sorts of things would be done primarily with the medic and for people that have phantom Germans pay attention. When I obviously do demonstrations with phantom again over through the controllers and all the bits and pieces of fainting that but I'm gonna be focusing mainly on those three spark the medic per faint and four per Siri's. Those are the main three facing consumer drones. Deejay, seldom most popular, usually the maverick. From what I can tell us the most populous, I'll be focusing mostly on that And just to let you know that you know, like my cargo three single combinations, I apologize in advance If you have, you really want to see it sparked controller on. I don't go through that. That's fine, I will tell you the difference between demonstrators, marches, cans and one more point as well is that if you just got your drawing of you just had delivered or impact already todo race out there and start flying, I would say Please don't know yet. Please watch up until the safety videos at the bare minimum. As I said, there's a lot of little got choose. I mean, they are very easy to fly. They will literally take off and fly themselves. Four year old can do it, but you must have a lot of information in the background and understand what it's doing. Otherwise, you have very serious unintended consequences. Where will fly off its seemingly on its own and unbeknownst to you, and perhaps crash into a tree. There goes our money or worsen crashing to a car ability. A person. There's a lot of bad things that could go wrong. Please watch up to the safety videos of absolute minimum before you run out there, go stop flowing, and that will ensure that your legal and safe for yourself in every else as possible. So I think that covers just about everything. Let's actually stop getting into the course material and once again, welcome and thank you for taking the schools. 3. Section 1 - Special Note For Mavic Air Owners: Hey guys, and I know you're wanting to get into this course, but I just wanted to make a quick note for those that have the DJI Medicare. Now I don't explicitly covered that drone in this course, but I do want to make sure that you know that the bulk of this course still applies to the Medicare. Now, I don't cover the drawing itself about things like the remote controller are identical to the DJI spark. So I will still essentially be covering that. Things like safety for yourself and people around you and you're flying drones still very applicable, things like laws in your country and what you have to do to perhaps register your drone. All still apply. Even things like the DJI go for app, the intelligent plot modes. These are things that are universal across DJI products. So get all still applies to the maverick air. So I would very much encourage still watching this course and still doing this course because I think you'll learn a lot of information. So just wanted to make that quick note for those of you who have come on board with the new Medicare, this course is still for you, so hopefully you really enjoy it. And that's all I'll say. Thanks very much. 4. Section 2 - 1 - The Differences Between Drones: How are you going? And welcome to the first section of this course. So I'm going to get right into it and start going through all the basics for drones and all the terminology that you'll be doing would soon. To begin with. I just wanted to make the point that These drones are very easy to fly. You can take off with a push of a button. You can land with a push of a button. Four-year-old can literally fly these things like hover in place and you don't even have to do it. You can go and have lunch. But they are incredibly, incredibly complicated. So just to give you a bit of an idea of just how complicated they are, I just thought I'd quickly go through a case scenario. Imagine that this maverick pro is doing active track and it's tracking me as I'm wondering around recordings and video, a very standard use case. It's something that you'll probably do a number of times with your drawing. Explain what active track is, but essentially it's tracking an object and keeping them in focus off the video to go through what this thing is actually doing to begin with, it's flying. In the early days of drones when DJI wasn't able to accompany drawings that you've built, they didn't have these fancy controllers and everything kingdom. You physically had to fly them and make sure I didn't do this or that or just fall out of the sky or something. They didn't just hover in place like these things do. Now, that takes a huge amount of computational power inside to do that. Large amount of arrays from GPS to ultra science on the bottom, too many, many things independently controlling all four motors to make sure that it stays stable and gives you a good camera view and it's not all shaky and makes your motion sickness. But most of all, it's just trying to keep itself in the air and all the safety around that and making sure it doesn't fly into no fly zones, keeping track of where it is, where it's going, where it's being from. On top of this, it's recording in 14th, the metric and the recording in 4k. That's a huge amount of pixels. Phones have only recently just been able to start recording. And for kids, the very demanding thing and not only that, but it's tighten that recorded footage that it's recording onto the SD card inside of it, and sending a teeny-tiny version of that back to your remote control and your phone so you can actually see what it says. It's doing that as well. On top of that, it's doing its object recognition and trucking. So as I said, this is active track, so it needs to type the input footage that it's saying. Recognize that on the person from the background and the IEP needs to track me as I move around. That in itself is a huge ask as well. It takes a large amount of computational power. Tell me recently really been really robust thing to do with the introduction of machine learning and neural net. That's a very advanced feature that also doing this is all at the same time. Along with that, it's monitoring the health and well-being of the drone as well as the actual factory itself. It's making sure, as I said, there's not flying into Airport zone or something like that. It's also doing its object avoidance. So with this, you've got the front seat facing sensors and the bottom placing sensors, so it's making sure it doesn't fly into a wall or a tree as it attracts me as the object going around. Finally, it's probably doing even more stuff than what I'm talking about here. Loads and loads of other things. I think Intel Y now, they are not done toys, they are seriously highly complicated pieces of equipment. Then, quite frankly, stunned at just how amazing and simple they weren't considering the level of complex technology that's inside it. So don't always please don't think of them as just another remote control helicopter, that quadcopter instead of a helicopter. I personally owned RC helicopter. It took weeks of practicing and flying just to make sure that I didn't do this, just go crash at Rod. He needed quite a lot of skill to actually do that because they didn't have all the senses and technologies inside of that helped it to actually stabilize itself. And from there it's just going even more preserved. As I said, tracking, object recognition, bullet sort of stuff. So that's the first thing I wanted to say. Please bring consider them as just sort of slightly better remote control helicopters via our whole different ballgame. From here, I just wanted to go into the specifications. As I said, this is joined by six. So I'm gonna bring up a chart now that compares. The three major drones. So this is the chart that you can see in front of you. There are the three main drones, which are the spark, dramatic PR, and the phantom for PR. As you can see, those price points are in US dollars and I'm pretty sure they're not a mistake that they're going from $500 up to one hundred, ten hundred dollars and then up to $1500. The spock is generally speaking meant for newer palette. That's meant for people who really want ultra mobility. They want, you know, the cheapest cost coming in at that $500 mark. And it's just great for general taken photos with a holiday casual joining top of stuff. So as you can see from the list there, you've got a 16 minute fly time. You've only got two axi of stabilization with the gimbal. You've got a fairly decent 12 megapixel camera. However, it only shoots ten ADP video, not for k. So that is a definite downside to the Spock. However, it is incredibly small and fits in the palm of your hand. And we'll talk about things like electric palm watch and Tom land above. It's considerably smaller than something got the magic product. So if you haven't look here, this is the size of the maverick prior. The DJI spark fits in the palm of your hand. It's even smaller than the actual MacBook Pro, so it's considerably more portable and much better to take around two views, chuck it in your backpack or something like this. However, I will say the metric prior foams up the spock. The blades do fold up, the legs don't go anywhere as the Pro has the ability to fully folded up like this. And once it is all folded up, It's actually quite comparable in size to the spot. I mean, obviously, it's not as small as the Spock, but it still fits quite comfortably in the palm of your hand. If you take that a little bit further and actually look at the bags that they contain in the medic perfect is very, very small, but it's actually smaller than our digital SLR camera bag. This bag will not only fit the actual drawing itself, but it will also fit the remote controller and another two batteries on top of it. So this is really all you need to carry around with the anodic Pro. And considering how much longer flat time, a better video. You can watch a bit of video you can get out of them having PR. I generally consider it to be the better drawing than the Spock. How do I do understanding of a $1000 is a bit out of your budget. Going back to the diagram, we'll move on to the maverick PR. And as you can see, the slot time is one of the biggest features in that. It has essentially doubled up from six to eight minutes to 27. This is one of the key things that you can obviously follow for twice as long. You can also fly favorite FASTA at the 65 kilometer analemma. You also get that really quite critical upgrade to fork when recording video. You also get three-axis stabilization with the gimbal and also quite importantly, the range of the remote control law. These things, the DJI spark does come with its own control. It, if you purchased the fly more combo for this plot. However, the spark or my controller will only go up to two kilometers, whereas the magnetic pro one will go all the way up to seven kilometers, which is quite a considerable late wherever. The medic Pro for me, as I said, I do think it is the better drawn out of all three of them that combines not just the full video recording, but also the ability to still be very portable, almost as portable as the spot itself. Moving on to the phantom for pro, this is pretty much the top of the range unless you start getting into the Inspire, which are many, many thousands of dollars or more for your film enthusiasts, people that just refused to take any hit on video quality will be pulling in for K at 60 frames per second, as opposed to the maverick, which is only at 30 frames per second. It's also for those who want to fly in a bit more harsh weather. I mean, you still not gonna be flying these in torrential rain or anything like that. But being a big a drone, the DJI phantom series have always been a big a drone, especially comparing it to the Maddox that came out recently. As such. That big F that have bigger murders, they could fly faster, they can fly in more higher winds and all that. Along with that, you could get a slightly, slight increase in flocked time up to 30 minutes, which isn't too bad either. But the same range for the control of. One other good thing about the phantom series is that it actually has five directions of object avoidance. And now this one is the Phantom three series. You can tell the gold over the top of it. The Phantom full prior looks very similar about the top of it is very shiny as well. On the sides of the phantom full PR that I have the object avoidance, so that's all good for all sides, whereas the medic Pro only has them up to the top for the front, and down the bottom here for the ultrasonic and the camera. That's something to consider that as well. The Fenton full Pro, although it is a lot more bulkier and that you will probably need a reasonable size of Backpack to actually transported as opposed to this very small case. It does have its place. It's for people who want to take uncompromised video, uncompromised photos. It also has a different controller to this, which can allow for tablets to be put in it. So you can actually see a bigger view of what you're saying. You can put big hoods around it to make sure that it protected from sunlight. It's basically giving you a lot more control and all those sorts of things, different options for a bigger drawing, but it does have that downside that it is not nearly as mobile. And for us personally, that was a pretty critical factor. We wanted something small. You can just throw into your onboard luggage, goes rotting next to cellular laptop or maybe your digital ISO camera next to it. And off you go, you've got both camera and drawing, which is what we did in Iceland. Tripping. Iceland is incredibly windy and the Maddox still did fantastically over there. And show you a bit of footage now. So this is footage of the medic pro flying in Iceland. When we were over there, we hired a car and the lady actually told us that we have to be very careful because Iceland is very windy and if the wind caught the door on our car, it may actually rip the car door off and that wouldn't be covered with our warranties. So she thought she needed to set up let us know about that. A bit of a fact that that should give you an idea of just how windy Iceland was and it was very windy. There were times when we couldn't fly the drawing because it was pouring rain and otherwise, but as you can see from this footage, it's quite smooth and was just amazed. It did complain a little saying high wind fly with caution, but I was still able to fly, still able to get fantastic footage, and I was just very impressed with it. So you can say night out, nomadic Pro is my favorite. It's the best combination of portability and high-quality video. But both the spark and the phantom for PRO have this spot and have their use cases where it's a professional filmmaker and you don't care about crammed into a tiny little bag. You're taking huge and into film equipment than the phantom series is definitely for you, possibly the Inspire series. But I will have their place. All the specs of all these three drawings do add up to basically, it doesn't matter which one you buy. You're gonna get an incredibly capable drone that has fantastic onboard stabilization, that has really great camera optics, takes in a lot of what gets you fantastic photos, has a great range and certainly better than a lot of the other rubbish. $100 joins or something that you might find that they usually die and they have maybe 5678 minutes flat time, or you can control them up to a 100 meters away or something like that. Even the Spock Finn is two kilometers with the controller. And as I said, tinted with the video recording. So those are the main specs for the main three drones that will be covered. Next, I wanted to get into actually setting up your drawing from when you receive it. So I'll talk to you then. 5. Section 2 - 2 - Setting Up Your Drone: Welcome to this next section which is on setting up your drone. This process will be slightly different for the different drones. Obviously, if you've purchased a spark, you'll have the Spock case with a spark inside. If you've purchased a phantom full prior, you will have a phantom for prior case with a payment for pro inside. I'm going to be going to a lot of data with the magic part, but do be aware that a lot of what I say is very common to a lot of the other drones. I mean, the Spark has propellers, spock has a gimbal and the Phantom four has propellers and getting booths. And I'll be sure to point out any differences and demonstrate anything that's different between them. But just because it's one of the most popular ones, I will be demonstrating mainly with the magic. When you open it up, you should see your drawing your control law. It's in pieces. To begin with. Just remember to look in all the little bits in place or places. To start with my own, to take the Controller app. We're going to be covering a lot of this later under the controller section. So I'll just put this to the side. Now. That section we'll cover with sticks, the buttons on sort of stuff. So don't worry, I will get to that. But for now, just putting it to the side inside, you've got more little fun thing is you've got your manual as you've got your fabric, all these sorts of things. We'll go through them all to start with. We will take out the actual drawing. So you want to make sure you grab it from a solid section in it and then pull it out gently. Put this to the side just for the time they we can focus on the drone itself. This is the unit, I must say when I first got mine, it was absolutely shocking to me just how smaller ones you can see. It's not quite as small as the Spock, but it's definitely extremely small. It's getting quite close to the size of maybe a mobile phone, which would be about this big. While you're investigating everything of the motors and the drone itself and over little bits and pieces. One quick thing that you might want to do is to take the battery out and put it on charge so that you can go through, look at all the sections in De Tao and watch this video and go through it all while your batteries on charge. This is the battery here. We can press once to say what the charge is up. This is at about 20%. It's quite large. To get it out. Hold on the bottom EMS on either side and just simply fold the legs out like so. Once you've done that, you'll expose the two points on the battery that you need to push together. So you're pinching them together like this. And you're pulling up, pinch together and wriggle up your battery, you can go put that on charge and come back to a lighter when it's all fully charged. You've looked at all this other stuff, so you're gonna do that now just pause the video and go chuck it on charge. That'll allow you to get a bit of a jumpstart. Next step is you'll want to take off all the plastics that you can't really say them Oman because I've been flying it for a wall, but you always will have warning stickers. It'll have pieces of plastic over the cameras here, cameras down there. For the families for priority, you might have ones on your actual propeller blade as well. So take all those off. Generally speaking, you can throw them out. One thing you should not throw out. One thing that is very serious that you shouldn't throw at is the actual gimbal itself. So that's this part here. So when you do remove it and I'll show you how to do that in a second. Dart, throw it at capable. You've already half why unfolded and we might as well fully unfolded. These arms are generally the easiest part of the folding process. Mixed one, put your hand on the top of the drawing and just flip it over so that you've got a good solid holding onto the drawing there. Make sure these propellers, they tend to clip on the actual fate down here. You can sort of follow them over a bit if you want. But I always just make sure they're well clear of any obstacles before you start doing the second stock, stick and pot of the following. Now you want to hold onto the base of the drawing and just simply fold. Again. Shouldn't be any resistance. I mean, it is a bit stiff to undo it the first time, but it shouldn't be catching on or do you think if it's really difficult to unfold, you want to essentially stop and make sure nothing's getting caught on anything or anything like that. So that's how you unfold your mark. From here, we're going to have a look at the actual game board itself. So. These, in a bit. The gimbal is made up of a few parts. The first part is the silicone, silicon cover on the top of it that covers the actual gimbal cover. To remove the cover and the silicon wrap on site, you just keep the silicone on. It just adds a bit of extra bit of protection. And this clip here, and you want to push it forward and pull back. So it will just push forward and pull off like that. And not quite done yet. You've got the gimbal silica and the Kaaba. And this is like a locking mechanism piece of plastic for the game where you can see that it doesn't really move or even clocked out and that's because this is holding it in place. So you want to pinch with your fingers together and pull up well, sorry, I pinch and pull up these two pieces here, make sure you do not throw them at. You want to keep these forever. They are fantastic for making sure that this very fragile for case into it doesn't get damaged at all. So you can go fly or drawing around and then come back afterwards. Put this back in, put that back on and it's fantastic to travel with. One thing to make sure I'll cover in a bit more De Tao in the next section. But this locking mechanism actually locks in the gimbal and it's fantastic for travel as I said. But never turn your drawing on with it. Don't turn your drone on with it. Because when you are drawing turns on this gimbal will look up, look down and just basically go through some self diagnostics top stuff and it's locked in place with this, then it can actually burn out the motor and damage your drones and make sure that you keep it and do use it, but never turn your drawing on with it. So I'll just put it back in as well. It can be a bit fiddly at times, you get used to it. And this as well. We'll flip it over to reveal the drawing. From here, you will notice that there are two propellers that are on two pillars To propel us out. We'll put this to the side and go hunting for our other propellers. As you might have guessed, our other propellers are going to be in his books. You've got your manuals or your warranty cards. You'll POW block, which is a good thing that you tend to plug in. You will also find another cable that will come with it inside here, which you can plug in and charge your remote control while this actually charges the battery. The Phantom method. Also find these other little cables in here which I'll cover later. Therefore connecting the remote controller to your farm. But whereas propeller, propeller blades, a lot of people or takes them a while to figure this out. Propeller blades are actually hidden underneath this thing here. So this is a nice squishy thing to make sure that the drawing doesn't get damaged. Move that out of the way and you've got your propellers here which will be going onto the drug. And you've also got another two in here, just in case, heaven forbid you crash and need some space. So now that we've got those drawing back over here and get to looking at the propellers now. Pretty easy to spot when it's pointed out to you. But if it's not pointed out to you, it's very hard to see. And that is the silver ring on a white ring and the no white ring here. And what that is for is to go with the white ring on the motor or the normal ring on the non-modal. So even though the propellers look very similar by actually different, There's the two white ones here and the two black ones here. And the reason is that In spins clockwise, the other ones pins anticlockwise and for the phantom three series. And previous to the metric, they used a screwing mechanism, which I'll be showing on the phantom three later on for these, for the spock, for the phantom, for they all use the quick release. So you can see these little jotting out bits here. It's known as screw. It's more of a kind of like a lot bulb. You grab hold of the actual silver merger part, put it on. And you can push down and rotate, certainly a slot, rotate just to lock it in place, and That's it. That's your propeller attached. Same here. Grab the middle, turn it around until you feel it going down in, and then a quick twist, and that's locked in. So now we've got all four of our propellers locked in. And you'll notice that I followed up my fold-out. Another quick tip. Some people, for some reason think that if you're flying the drawing and you take it out and we put it on the ground and you're about to go flying, but you need to undo all the commas before you fly. But fun fact is that you don't, you can actually stop flowing like this. As the propeller spins up, it will actually push the blades out on its own and stop flying normally. So there's no need to manually pull them out each and every time it's relevant. Makes things a little bit quicker. As I said, these are the same for the Spock and the phantom. For the phantom, three requests, green ones, which I'll show later on. The spot, comes with all four of them attached. This MacBook Pro only has two of them attached. And the Phantom four doesn't come with any of them attached to it. You have to attach all four of them. So it's kind of small, medium, large, or attaching some attached, no attach site. Other way it's good to know how to attach them, even if you don't have to run a wife. Now that we've gone through the gimbal and the propellers and everything. Let's have a look at all the buttons. So I will start out with the biggest button of all, which is the Pi bond. This is actually part of the battery itself. And if you just press it once you'll get the power status of the battery. So as I said, this is very lower, needs to be charged a bit to actually turn the drawing on, need to press it and then press it again and hold. Press and press and hold. You'll see the LA days laptop. This twitching of the blades is very normal. You get the startups and then you say, well the LED is flashing, is it tries to connect. There's no remote controller connected to it all on or anything like that. So we get this orange, yellow flashing lot to turn it off exactly the same but in reverse. So you press and press and hold and the LA days reverse, go back down and everything shuts off. That's a turn it on and off. Walking around the drawing more. As I said, you've got these two cameras up here, which are the forward facing object avoidance cameras. You've got the two cameras down here, which are the bottom facing object avoidance cameras. Then you've got these two pieces here, which are two ultrasonic sensors which help the maverick stabilize indoors and they obviously produce ultrasonic sounds. So if you have a dog inside while you're drawing is using these, he may actually go a bit naughty because he'll obviously be out of here, that ultrasonic sound, you won't, but you'll probably be chasing your drawing anyway. It's a flying drone inside his house, but just a word of caution. If you do have pits, they may get a bit NAPQI at those senses. Living ran. We have this little latch here, which contains the microSD card and the Wi-Fi to ACI switch. So the microSD card is where it stores all the footage or photos and all that stuff. The Wi-Fi and ACI switch is to actually switch up between the remote control, operating and controlling of either remote to controlling it via your phone. So you can actually control the maverick, similar to how you can control the spark just with your phone using Wi-Fi connections and you need to switch it into that Wi-Fi mode to do that. Personally, I never use it. I always use the controller. It's got a much stronger signal up to seven kilometers wide. And the Spock, if you actually get the fly more combo, you'll get the controller as well. And I'd recommend using that because it has up to two kilometers away. But you can switch between them if you wish. If you don't have the controller for some reason. Moving on to the other side of the drawing, we have another tiny little drawer. In here. We see the micro USB connector points. So for this, you can plug them, mark our USB cable in and that will enable you to download the video and photos from the micro SD card, just like you would, for instance, a camera or maybe a phone or something like that. It'll just pop up as another storage DeVos. You can't charge the drawing via that thing, so don't try to charge. You have to remove the battery and plug it into your charging block, which I showed before. You can also use that port for firmware update. You can also do firmware updates using the controller and you'll farm, which is the way I usually do it. It gives you a little more feedback and just seems to, it seems to work quite well. People swear by losing the cable probably is a little bit quicker to do the data transfer, but the two separate ways that you can do it. So that's pretty much the entire maverick from start to finish. One other thing is the LEDs on the back here. You've also got LEDs on the front here as well. That's pretty much here. You've got all the buttons and senses, and propellers and Gimbels, not from top detail. The last thing is how to fold it back up again, Steve, unfolding you want to put it away? Nail start with Put your finger off the top and grab the main body of the medic, flip it over again. You want to make sure these propellers are well and truly clear of anything you want to grab by the motor part and then just very gently fold it back over. I usually like to switch hands just because it's easier. Same thing, fallback over keeping on those propellers. Once those two are folded over, grab the main base of it, flip it over and you want to hold those like, sorry. There's your drawing all folded up again. Now that we've gone through the medevac from top to title and all the boxes and all the little bits and faces and all the stuff inside. The other drawings, the Spock and the Phantom, as I said, they're very similar. They tell us they'll have batteries, they all have buttons and cameras and Gimbels and all that sort of stuff. Just to let you know the differences for the spock. The main things that a difference between the spark and the medic part isn't the propellers all come attached. These two don't come attached with the metric, but all four of them for this box. And you don't have to worry about putting them on with the spot, but it is still good to know how to operate these quick release propellers. The back of the Spock above the battery on the button is where the actual micro USB cord is. On. The spark are in here you have a button that you can press to power it on. So it's the exact same button and patho here. But the battery goes in this compartment here for the spot. The US micro USB is very similar to this in that it, it doesn't charge the Spark, but it will give you access to firmware updates as well as downloading the data off the micro USB card. In terms of the Wi-Fi and the RC mode, while the Mamluk Pro has a physical switch for it, the spock is a little different. It actually uses the power button. So power button for the sparks on the back here, as I said, when you press and hold the power button for three seconds, it will set it to OSI mode. So if you did buy the fly more combo and you do have the control, you want to set it to that. If you want to set it back to the Wi-Fi mode, or you need to reset the Wi-Fi, press and hold it for six seconds. And that will set the Wi-Fi mode. So that's the main differences between the Maverick and the Spock covered the nomadic Pro and the spot. Now we want to get into the phantom series. Now, if you have the Phantom four per, it'll look slightly different to this. You'll have a much more shiny a white cover on the top here. The bottom of it is a little different in terms of how the gimbal was mounted and senses a random. That's because this is a phantom three. You can see here it's a phantom three professional series until about gold marks over the top here. But I wanted to use this because it actually has the different types of propeller. So with the phantom for these propellers, they don't actually screw one like you can see here. The quick release like the magic and the spark drawing propellers are. But I did want to demonstrate this just in case you do have a three series drawing and we're watching this video. Again, you'll find all the propeller blades in the box when you open it up. And again, just like the magic ones, have both silver and black version. So the reason for this is that basically one spins clockwise and the other ones being the anticlockwise. If you had both of them spinning the same wire like this, the drawing would actually just go around and around in circles and well, that wouldn't be very fun. No, sorry. What actually has to happen is that one has to spin one way and the other one's spins the other way. And what that does is balance and sent to the drawing and help and actually fly properly. So this is why it's a little bit more complicated having silver and black and the different Where does he have to put all the different things that may seem like a pain, but there's a very good reason behind it. So these are a bit different to the quick release ones in there. You have to actually screw them on, but it's still very simple. Silva with silver, black, with black and make it very easy. So if it goes on, rather than pushing down and twisting with the quick release, what you want to do is actually screw days on. So I just takes a quick spin and it will get to moderately tight stage. You want to hold the base again and just give it that extra bit of taut and to make sure that it's nice and secure, you do not want loose blades. You do not want them flying off mid flight and destroying your drawing. Again. Spin and just taught him a little bit, sorry. As you notice, it's the opposite direction. Down here. Again. The full form. That's pretty easy process to do. Unfortunately with the Phantom, you do have to take them off each time you put the drawings on y and wanting to transport it. Then when you take it back out again and you've got to reattach them. So you can potentially be doing this every time you fly, which is one of the reasons why I kind of liked them havoc. And also at the spot because you don't have to do that. I just followed up out of the way. Pop it in your bag. You done. But the phantom is. For more serious film is it's got that better camera, the fastest spade and all that sort of stuff. So it's a different market because it's such a big a drawing by do have some sort of limitations and you have to take off the propellers and put them on all the time. But as I said, it's a pretty easy process as you just say. Moving on to the gimbal part of the drawing, that's very similar to the medic in the gimbal, although you can't see it here, didn't have one. There's a plastic lock that will actually lock onto the gimbal and clip onto these two parts here or show a photo of it. That's what it looks like. And if you've got to make sure again, you want to keep this piece of equipment because if you're transporting this year on this Kimball, fiddling around and flapping every way of possibly getting damaged all the time you want to mocked implies nots and taught well-protected. Kate those pieces of plastic with the tandem for as well. There'll be another gray colored gimbal lock piece of plastic as well. You might miss it. If you don't know it's there. Make sure you take that out again before you turn on the drawing because it can burn out the motor trying to move when it's locked in place. It's very similar to the Maverick and what I showed you before, but just slightly different for the phantom series. That's all the information about the actual gimbal itself. Now let's have a look at the buttons. So again, we've got the marker US based micro USB port for not for charging, but for downloading data, for uploading firmware. On the other side, you've got the micro USB card for storing of the four K footage. For here. You've also got another mini USB port just in case for the phantom to turn it on, nor on the top That's actually here on the button. This is a little sticker on your property and off, but this is the battery component for the Phantom. You again say maneuver, press and press and hold. Louder than the metric. You should say the propellers do their little twitchy thing as well. Suppose I say lots coming on, as I said, very, very similar to the actual nomadic, but just slightly different because it's a faint and a different size drone. Same process to turn it off, just press once and then press and hold in 20 days, go down and everything turns off. Monitor being able to say it, but the gimbal did move around when it was being turned on. If I'd had that gimbal lock implies that it does do a fair amount of damage. So just make sure that you don't have that implies when you turn it on, the micro SD card that you get with the drone is probably a 16 gig one. In terms of speed. The Phantom four will only do 10:00 AM, sorry for k at 30 frames per seconds. So you might not need super-fast, something like the SanDisk Extreme micro SD card should be doing font for the phantom for Pro, which does for k at 60 frames per second. You'll want to get the same, this extreme pro because that can just take that slightly high a bit, right? And you want to have your videos glitching halfway through because it cannot rot that data as quickly as the drawing is producing it. So just a little note on if you aren't going to buy a new MicroSD economy, bigger one, maybe like 128 gigawatt, make sure that you get the fastest possible. Last thing is the actual battery itself. So if we push down on here and also push down on their pool, the battery should come out. It is quite difficult to do. That's good because you really do not want batteries falling yet made flat. This is the Phantom style battery. The Phantom full batteries, gray inside like this. This is obviously the phantom three series battery. The phantom for Pro battery actually is a high capacity of one, and that actually is denoted by a bit of white in these parts here, we can use the white high capacity phantom for Pro battery in the phantom it for itself and vice versa. However, you cannot use obviously these ones in the medical, the spark. It would be nice if they were interchangeable, if you are into multiple drawings, but I can't imagine how they would make them all work with the same battery. So I don't particularly blame DJI that that's all the information about the actual Phantom and the Spock and the magic Pro itself. Hope I've gone through every piece of detail on every spot, on every drawer and possible and year-old fully up to speed regardless of what drawing that you have. You can go through the rest of the bits as well. Obviously with the phantom, you'll have USB cable tables, you'll have the actual controller. I'll get to that in the control section. So don't worry about that. You'll have more details on accessories as well in another section later on. But generally speaking, it's mostly about the drone and the controller, which we'll cover later on. In the next section, we'll be looking at the fly more combo packages for all the different sense. Phantom than average and the Spock. I'll talk to you then. 6. Section 2 - 3 - The Fly More Combo Packages: It's now time to talk about the fly more combo. For the far more compound, we're gonna be talking about the magic one and the DJI spark one and what the differences does not fly more combo for the phantom series. So this will just be for magic and Spock. Or when you open it up, you say lots and lots and lots of little packages. You've got your battery, charging hub, car charger, you're extra propellers. You've got more flat bat trees and thank you adaptors and all these sorts of stuff. I'm not going to bore you with actual physical unboxing of them because to be frank, I've already on books and then find with them for a while. Sorry. Here we have the extra batteries. Pretty standard stuff. You only get one battery with the DJI medic, with the fly more comma, you get an additional two, sorry, each one of these, you get a good 25 minutes flat adults with three of them, That's quite a decent amount of flying. When you've got more charges in I'm sorry, more batteries, you run into a bit of a problem with the original and the charging cable will only charge one at a time. So it'll plugged directly into here and charge it. What you want to do when you've got three batteries is used, the charging hub, rather than plugging it into there. You plugged it into here. That sits very nicely and you can just charge, your batteries are here, and you get three obviously. And you can even buy another one. That's the battery charging hub. The other very nice additional extra that you get with the fly more combo for the maverick is this bank adapter. And it took me a while to figure out actually what this is for. You can say the connectors that match the batteries here. So it's obviously meant to do this and I don't really describe it very well on the hicks up for sort of thing. But you'll actually say it essentially converts your magic battery into charging accessory so you can grab your cable or toured. Plug it in here and plug your phone into it. So you can see here. You can just plug it in and it'll start charging. Want to actually start charging from this point because the battery itself is an on again, took me a while to figure out how to deal with this. Sorry, you've got your battery and it's all plugged in, but it's not going to start charging to actually turn it on. You got to press and then press and hold. Once it does that, the battery is on and it will start to charge your phone. So that's just a bit of information for people that are trying to use some figure out what United this bank adapters for. So I'll just turn that off here. And that'll stop charging my phone. Got that parent of the wife typo. You get the two batteries, you get the charging hub, you get the bank adapter, you don't get this cable line. You also get this very nice, very fantastic back. I think it's actually the best part of one over to this part of the flame will convert. One of the reason that's the best part is that everything fits in this bag, so the actual drawing will fit in there. I'll show you in a second. The controller will fit in there and you can essentially fit up to full batteries in this thing only supply you with three obviously, but you can fit four batteries into it. Sorry. Give me two seconds. Now we're going to turn back. Let's how to properly pack this back. So it does take a bit of know-how, how to do it. You gotta be very careful to maintain is the propellers here. So you want to make sure that they're all snugged in and snug in, locked up. The bigger area of the bag, push this side, putting out as far as it goes. I like to put it in this one. I apparently didn't put it in the otherwise. Well, I like it this way. Can be a little fiddle. It's a very tight fit. Mainly the propellers. Make sure they fly a lot when you're putting them in. You want to make sure that snugly guys in there. It should just slide in lock that you don't want to be forcing it in or anything. It does sliding properly. If you're forcing it in, you don't want it wrong. Next up we have the controller. Again. Be careful of these things. They are quite resilient, but we want to make sure, you know. Forcing it and Jamie it in, otherwise they can't break. Sorry. I have to do it on an angle. Sorry. These are protected. And you just slotted in again gently. Then we've got leftover. You already got one battery in there. Another battery can fit nicely into slides in like that. And then you're going to close this. Zipping up your two batteries, drone and remote control for the third battery and potentially forth battery of your own home. These parts here, this chuck them in this. Slide it nicely. And because it's a mesh, an extra handy paste if you want to know how full your batteries on the side, you can just feel around, push the button in the early days actually come through. So let's have properly pack your magic prior shoulder bag that comes with the fly more combo. It's one of my favorite parts on it because this is literally all you need. It's smaller than a DSLR bag. Can pretty much go anywhere. It's got three batteries. That's almost an hour and a half of flight time. We've got the controller, you've got the actual drawing itself, and you can even shoveled in there somewhere, which is usually what I do. Put it in here. You've still got more room for bits and pieces maybe or Chucky Finding there maybe some cables like USB-C or by phone cables or wherever it might be, maybe an extra iPhone battery. That's your thing. But it fits pretty much everything. That's quite fantastic. Sorry. That's how you attack the bag of you are wondering and get everything in there. Now we're having looked at the spot fly more combo and what the differences are between the havoc flood more combo and the Spock. Spock you get a controller. For one look exactly like this. This is the method control. Put a picture up of the differences. But the main difference is that the LCD screen is not on the spot control law. Now the other main difference is that this will do seven kilometers, the Spock rumble, and they do two kilometers, as I said before when we were going over the specification. But you do get the control law in the fly. More comeback. On top of that, you also get the Spock shoulder bag. It looks a little different to this malloc per shoulder back. Obviously it's for the spark and up to the Maddox, it looks a bit different. You'll also get extra batteries as well. You get propeller gods, you get charging hubs and a charge. All for the Spark itself. As I said, there's no fly more combo for the Phantom four series. I take it that this is just because it's a more professional jargon and they want to let people choose their own individual things as opposed to a big package. They do sell shoulder bags and extra batteries and different controllers for the phantom full series, I just started having fly more combo for it. Now, even though there's the differences between the Spock and the medic, I really would recommend getting the fly more combo for both of them, particularly the Spock, because you get that control line, you get that extra range taking it from Maybe ID or a 100 meters with waffling on your phone all the way up to potentially two kilometers with the remote, it makes a huge difference. But also it gives you extra control rather than controlling it just with your phone. You've got your hand on the screen controlling it with the on-screen controls. Your hands get in the way he can't really see what you're filming with the controller. It's very, very sturdy. The sticks out. Excellent. You can put your phone in here, covered or lighter and the controller section, but it just gives you much more precise control over the actual drawing itself. You can also do maneuvers where you're flying the drawing with the sticks and also using the gimbal control section here. You can do that with the app on the phone where you have the phone and you actually use the accelerometer of the fine to tilt the gimbal up and down while you're moving the sticks on the screen. But it's just much easier doing the control on top of that with the spock is also very important because you get those extra batteries. Now with the metabolic, having one battery isn't too damaging because you still get that 28 or sorry, in 2016, realistically about 25 minutes worth of flat time for the battery from what I've found brand new. That's a pretty decent slot time, especially considering how fast and far you can fly it with the SPARQL. However, there are batteries only get about 15 minutes, they're quoting, but realistically saying about 11 to 12 minutes of actual flat time. That's not very much having another two or three batteries on top of that would certainly make your flying die a lot better. Much more important for the Spock. Getting that fly more combo box with nomadic to fly more combos. Exon, you get this fantastic bag. You get the extra batteries which you probably want to buy anyway. You get the charging hub allowing you to charge them all of your batteries simultaneously, which was fantastic. And you get that little plank adapter, which essentially turns your battery into a foreign Jojo or remote control charge or any type of charges. So you can recharge your phone on the go and they recharge your phone extremely fast. It's equivalent in my experience of plugging your phone into a wall. So it's not just your standard USB lucky plug it into a computer and it takes 12 hours to recharge your phone or something. These will charge your phone up in a good hour or two, very quick and very powerful. You can get it out four or so charges out of it as well. So this thing actually does an excellent job reviewing road tripping. Iceland, for example, like weighted goes extremely community. With the fly mow combo. You also get the car charger as well. So you get essentially discharge off. But instead of connecting to the wall, can extrude the cigarette lighter and the car. Again, fantastic for when you're on the road. If you've got three batteries, you can go ahead and fly chuck in, charge it in the car while you're going along stock fly again, if made it absolutely fantastic, the fly more combo for both the Spock and the magic I would highly recommend. And a lot of experts also recommend that mainly for the batteries and the proper bags, because realistically, you can use the bags and the cardboard containers that come in to actually store the drone and carried a random but having a profit bag. That's my, especially for the marriage, which is so small smokes or compact S2, the spark I think is a fantastic quality bags. I probably cost a good 150 or so just on their own. Placed in Australia. Those are the fly more combos and the benefits of them and the differences between the Spock and the metric. As I said, I can't recommend them enough. They are both fantastic. And in our next section we'll start to look at trying to avoid crushing your drawing when you take it out for your first flight. I'll talk to you then. 7. Section 3 - 1 - Spatial Awareness: Welcome to this very special Nick section, which is on hand to avoid damaging or crashing your drawing. In this first section, we'll be talking about spatial awareness. And to begin with, whether you've bought a medic Pro, maybe a phantom full prior, or maybe even the cheapest the DJs spot. You still going to spend a lot of money in the Spark is $500 US. Dramatic, as I said here in Australia cost us almost $2 thousand with the farm or convert. A lot of money. I can understand that you might be a bit nervous that you're typing it up to fly for the first time. You might not fully know what you're doing. Maybe you've never flown remote control helicopters or remote control anything before your drone. This is the first time you flown anything. So it's understandable that you're nervous and you don't want to do anything that might cry my damage or crash the drawing. They goes thousands of dollars. So that's what this section is. Whole section is full. Making sure that you're confident enough that you know about all the potential pitfall. 8. Section 3 - 2 - The Most Common Ways People Crash: Welcome to this next section on the most common ways that people crashed the drone. Over the years. Dji being selling a lot of drawings and the business they've been around for a few years now and over that time that had a lot of people unfortunately crash the drones, cause issues. And what they can do is they can download the logs off the drones and send them into DJI. That can help determine whether or not it was something like a pilot error that caused the crash or whether or not maybe it was something actually in the joint itself and maybe a software glitch or hard way styling or something in which DJI would be responsible for and in which case the warranty deed, my TBA. But as a result, I get the logs from them and they can tell what actually cause that drug to crash. And as a result, wherever the yeas and the many thousands of people that unfortunately crashed a drone benefits you and I because we get a top list of how people most likely crash, they're dry. Now, the number one way people crashing the drone is something called a CAC. Immediate. Csa stands for combination stick command. And I'll be going over this a bit more in basic flying and control of section as well. But for now, CSE is essentially when you have the two sticks and you either in combination, down and inwards or down in words. So either one of those commands can either start your drawings, merges, or stop your driving motors. Now, what it's actually meant for is when you're on the ground and you want to stop the motors so that you can take off manually. You perform that command, starts spinning up the motors and off you go. Unfortunately, what it can do is if you're flying and doing some move and it requires you to fly down and go right to the left or something like that. And for whatever reason you're not thinking. And you do both of those actions at the same time, your drones motives are going to stop dead and it's just gonna fall out of the sky like a giant brick. This is the main cause of most crashes. It can also be from just inexperience, even if you know about it, you can still do it. But if you don't know about it, you can just accidentally do it while playing ramble, something like this. This is why I'm telling you that as I first-time or even as an experience one, this is something you learn how to do it explicitly look out for because it is the number one way that people crushed the drawings. Unfortunately. The second one after a CSE is that the propellers fly need flood. And this one is actually a bit of a tricky one. But I do expect it to get a bit less. Back for the phantom three and previous 123 phantoms as well as a few others. They have the spinning screw on propellers as I was showing you before in the previous sections. So these ones spin on and you have to manually taught in them. You don't want to talk too much because you might damage the motor mechanism. But you don't want to talk. Not tight enough because if you do, they can actually fly off because they're not attached properly. So this can get tricky even more because you might screw it on a field taught to you. You might take off and the drone will take off and hover look perfectly fine. You might even fly up and fly around for a while and everything will be fine. Meanwhile, the propellers are going into relatively low RPM speed, so there's not much of a problem. The view kick it into sports mode or Florida want to do some really fast flowing for whatever reason. Not a problem doing that, but the propeller starts going faster and faster to give you that extra speed boost. And it's at the really high RPM that it just flies off, drawing goes down, goes all your money. There can either be one of two cases. It can be at those high RPMs that the propeller blades fly off. Or it could just be really haven't taught in the morning properly and five minutes after takeoff they fly off or something like that. I don't really see this going forward as being a huge problem. I think it's more of a previous past problem because from the medic onwards, so the maverick, the spot, The Phantom four series, they all have this quick release propeller system as I was showing you before. So they're kind of a binary thing that's clicked in or it's not clicked in. If you start this off and it's not clicked here, It's gonna come flowing or store it away. You're not going to be able to get up to a decently high speed and then have it pop off or even collect that. So hopefully, I think that's one of the reasons why DJI introduced in you quick release. It also is a lot easier for you to put those blades on with a quick release, I think, but it's extra benefit as well that they can hopefully stay apart the number two way that most people have been crashing their drawing. Next up on our list, we have return to home crashes. So what this entails is. I'm delivering a lot more in the app when we go through all the settings of the DJI go-to for app. But essentially, you have this return to home button on the controllers. You also have returned to her and buttons on the app as well. And what that does is, if you're flying around and you need to adorn to come back to you. You can simply, simply press that button and it will return to home. What actually happens when you press that is that the Jordan will guard. This is used for instance, and this is your drawing. The drone will fly up to a certain predetermined hot, the return to harm hot, and then fly back to the home position. You have a hard position, usually gets updated when you take off, the drawing will tell you is I returned to her point, update it. But you can also set it to be the control law. You can also set it to be a physical location on the map. You can do lots of different things that we'll be exploring later on with it. Either way, what can happen is that as it goes up to that predetermined hot, it may not be a high enough point. The Poshmark thing, say for instance 30 meters and usually that might be fine. All the trays that are oropharyngeal area where you fly 15 or 20 meters high so that it always goes up above the trains, comes back and went ends that you'll position nice and sight. What can happen is if you go to a different location with higher trays, cups of building or something like that. It can go up to that same 30 meters and then fly into a tree or into a building or something collected that unbeknownst to you, there goes your drawing again. It can get even worse than that as well because although are older controllers and the app has a return to home button on them, return to homes can be triggered by many different scenarios. Return to home can be triggered by emergencies like if the bacteria is low, can also be triggered by if the controller itself loses signal. So a very common one is that there'll be flying and for whatever reason you might try and fly or random a building or a hill or something that has a lot of radio interference properties inbuilt into it. You know, a lot of debt, a lot of metal or something like that. For whatever reason, the connection between the control law and the drug gets caught after a certain amount of time, that drawings just going down into return to her unmarked, fly out and come back to you might not actually physically trigger that return too high and it can happen automatically. And if you haven't said that returned her hot properly in each location as you go through, then he goes You drug. Now another key point where return to home is activated is if you run out of battery and that's and now the reason why people crashed the drawings quite often. And I'm sure you've seen lots of footage on YouTube or maybe you haven't. People flowing out over rivers or lakes or oceans and all that sorts of things. For whatever reason it, I still can't figure out why they do this, but they keep flying wrought to the very end of the bedroom there in the garden, in the diegetic app. It has a little law in up the top that tells you your battery, how much percentage you've got left. It goes from 100% all the way there to 0. And the 20 or 30% moth is different markings. You can set it in the app. It will tell you that you're about to run out of battery. You've got Thirty-five percent of battery left. And if you don't come back now, you weren't coming off the battery to actually get that current for whatever reason. I don't know why people think that they can ignore this and not crash the drawing by ignore it and keep trying to film away. And then it looks surprised when they join starts to automatically start landing in the middle of a light or something because it's simply just add a battery. It's not going to just fall out of the sky. They don't do that for safety reasons, but it will forcibly stopped to wane. You're drawing and you won't be able to stop it because it's worn out of battery. This is another main reason that people crashed the drawing and that's something that you should never, never put yourself in a position to do. Once it gets to 30% or once it starts telling you to return home. Return home, it is critical that you do it. If you don't. You're drawing my x dot retaining harm and half-life retaining home, runs out of battery, starts to land. You might be over the ocean. You might be able to, like, even if you're a land, it's probably unlikely that it's going to be landing in a suitable location of my land. Try and land on top of the tree or something like that, it's going to do a lot of damage. Worst-case, it's going to damage your drawing. It's more likely going to absolutely destroy Jordan or maybe we'll just even lose it completely. So that's another major reason of why people damage or crash they're drawing, simply just running out of battery and it really shouldn't happen. One other particular thing that can catch people out, even if you're paying attention to that 30, 35%, whatever point it's an active points. So the further you go away, the more bacteria will take up to get back in the earlier, it will warn you. So it is a dynamic thing. It's very intelligent. But this is you in your drawing and you stopped flowing this way. And say for instance, there's a bit of wind during this way. You'll flying away with the wind at your back makes it very easy to fly away. You do, you're flying around over here and it starts beeping a saying, Hey, does Thirty-five percent battery left, you should come home now, otherwise it won't be able to reach your good drone pilot. So you turn around and start flying back the nine-year flying into the wind. And if it's a decent often wind can actually make it a lot harder for the drawing itself to fly back. And what can actually happen is it can actually not quite get all the way back because the wind is going in the opposite direction and it's making it hard for it to fly back. So just be aware of that. The app attention is very smart. As I said, it will dynamically calculate how far away you are, how much battery you need to get back. But it can't tell the wind resistance hammock. It doesn't take that into account. Just be careful of that. I'd recommend probably coming back just a little bit before it starts really beaten yet you, if for nothing else, is really annoying when it beeps at you. But it also means that you are guaranteed that your drawing is safe. Finally, the main reasons that people crash, they're drawing stuff that I've covered before in the previous section, which is things like not having it in visual line of sight. Trying to navigate in the 3D world on a 2D screen. Crash, crashing into small objects like Powell lines, those sorts of things. Another very common one is actually flying backwards. Even on advanced drones like the metric, which actually have forward facing and bottom facing object avoidance. They don't have it on the back. So if you're taking the video while you're flowing backwards and articles on LinkedIn, there's a tray. You're just going to fly back into it and then she goes, Sorry. Do be aware of your surrounding environments. Have a second person width you as well so they can teach you, instead of say hi and stop flying backwards, you're about flying to that tree. It could be thousands of dollars. Sorry. That's the main top sort of Tim Wise that a lot of people over the last fees of crushed the drones. I hope none of those things happen to you. And I heard that by telling you about those things now you'll well-prepared and that you know what to look out for. It's not just a bird that might come in or stop trying to attack your adjourn. It seems that you've got to do two. You've got to make sure that you buy the app when it says for you to come back on battery, come back on dietary, because otherwise it will just fall out with this guy. You've got to make sure you propellers are on strike. You got to make sure you don't do that. Really annoying CFC moving truck you're drawing out of the sky. There are a lot of things that, as I said, this is what it comes back to, the easy to fly. You can push a button and it will take off and fly itself almost literally with some of the automatic modes, but it's a lot of information needed to keep in the back of your head. A lot of things you need to look out for to make sure that you stay safe and that you're drawing stay safe as well. I mean, you've got to look out for birds, have got to watch out for dogs, which are flying into trays, not doing the correct combination, you're back to your disadvantage. Oh, while you're trying to fly around and have fun, get the rod short. These are things you've got to build up to. So to begin with, I would highly suggest, as I said, just getting the basics brought, being in an open environment, the oval is probably the best one to do. Fly up and down, get control of it. So it's second nature so that in those more complicated environments, you're not trying to focus on how to fly it up or down. You've got that down pat. You can look at the surroundings and really be aware of what's happening around you and fly with caution and make sure you didn't crash. In the next section, we'll be looking at flying inside and why that's not a good idea. I'll speak to you then. 9. Section 3 - 3 - Flying Inside: Welcome to this section on flying indoors. So earlier on I explained that you do not want to fly in dollars. I didn't particularly give a reason for it, but that's what I want to explain in full detail. Nail. A lot of people when they first get a drone, I think that flying inside is the psi function that's lying outside is the dangerous option. I think there's high winds this trace to crash into. Maybe they realize that these birds out there as well. Whatever it might be that I think that it's dangerous. And they guy, maybe I'll fly indoors for a little first. Then once I get the hang of it, I'll go outside where it's more dangerous or something, then I understand that sounds like a good idea in theory, but as I said, while these are easy drones to fly, you have to have a lot of background information in your head to make sure that you don't crash it. And this is some of that background information. So please controllers operate at 2.4 gigahertz frequency. It's very common for radiofrequency controls. I'm not sure if you know this or not, but another very common thing that a lot of people have in their houses these days are Wi-Fi routers and phones. They also operate at 2.4 gigahertz. They interfere with these controllers. If you have one or maybe multiple Wi-Fi RAB is in your house which they didn't knew probably do. They will interfere with this remote control. Now it's not going to permanently disable it. But depending on way you'll wrapper reason way you're flying, maybe you're in-between it or something like that or maybe you start flying in-between them. But as we fly around the house, you become in-between it. It's very easy for this control to lose signal or to have that signal they severely disrupted between the drawing and the controller itself. And obviously that's going to cause a lot of problems. The other major concern is that inside it's very difficult to get a GPS lock. Usually some people have no metal roofs, which makes it even more difficult to get unlocked. But even just being inside generally is hard. When a drawing flies, It will typically have anywhere from maybe 1015, maybe up to 20 satellite connected to it unlocked on while it's doing it's flying. And this is what allows it to keep itself stable and not start drifting over like this. Many of the earlier drawings that didn't have as good of connectivity to GPS's, they'd often be nowhere near as stable with something called the maverick or the phantom falls or even the spot, they would sort of slowly start to drift like this, even if you weren't touching the controls. So let's still hauled off by themselves and keep relatively stable. But I kind of drift of the time and you'd have to keep a bit of an island. I'm sorry. What having flying indoors does is it takes me back to that time where you kind of get a good GPS lock or even if you do, you might only get a couple of satellites as opposed to 20 or 15. And it makes it a lot harder to control the drone because not only do you have your controller being interrupted by a Wi-Fi router and you can't tell it to move left or right because it's getting interrupted. But the joint itself can't self stabilize and we'll just start drifting, Drifting tool wall or something and you can't tell it not to. So that's the first, initial dangers of find inside. That's one of the things that makes it very difficult to begin with. There's somebody gave him less than that and that's what happens when you don't actually get a connection with your control or to it, if it is interference between your router and this becomes big enough, it'll disconnect for a certain amount of time and that'll trigger the returned home, the protocols on the drawing itself that remember what I said, return to home takes the drone up to a certain predefined hot, then flies back to the harm location. Now, if you're indoors, I'm pretty sure you will. Ceiling isn't going to be 30 or 50 meters high. Your drawing is going to fly directly up into the ceiling or maybe into a television or something worse like that. There's numerous complaints on websites and things like that where people have gotten a drawer taken out of the box. Never Florida join before. Immediately start flying and inside the drawer and takes off. It can't get any GPS's, any GPS satellites and walked onto it. The Wi-Fi red is interfering with their controller and it stops. Gently drifting, slams into the television, or they're flying and around, maybe they are controlling it. But then it goes until a Wi-Fi hotspot or something like that. Controlling gets wiped out, goes into the return of return to harmonic and starts flying into walls or something like that. Day complying winch to DJI say, Oh, my drawing flowing to the television all by itself. They do diagnostic on the drawings logs. And I can very easily prove that it didn't have any GPS signal and lost connectivity to the remote went into return to harm mode. That's why that's essentially called pilot error. It will not be covered under warranty. In the same day that you got your drawing, you lose thousands of dollars. So this is the whole reason why I just do not fly indoors that always ran it. You can sit the drawing into specific modes so that it doesn't try and search for satellites. And it uses its visual positioning system to actually stabilize a drone. So some of the advanced ones use the bottom placing cameras and ultrasonic to help stabilize and position themselves indoors, rather than using the GPS systems to position them and keep them stable so it is possible to fly in salt. I'm not saying it's not except it's for advanced flying pilots or so. Keep that in mind. This is why I told you don't fly indoors. I'm trying to help you and not destroy your drawing. Taken outside. I know it might seem scary that United is high winds or something like that outside. Outside is actually extremely easy with the DJI drones. They handled the winds very, very well. They will tell you if the winds are too high, caution come back and land. Even then I've found you can almost ignore it. Basically, I can type quite high winds. The bigger the drone you have, the high the winds. You can type the following, something like the spot. Maybe. Just be a little bit more careful with wind and stuff. I'll go over in more detail later on in the third-party app section, which you can look up the wind speed with where you currently are and sort of configure apps to tell you whether you can count fly depending on how high the wind is. But we'll cover that in a later section. So initially, I just wanted to explain why I'm saying dark fly indoors to begin with. Next up, we'll have a specific look at the gimbal on the method. I'll talk to you. 10. Section 3 - 4 - The Gimbal: Now that we've covered flying indoors and how to do that safely, I wanted to get into a special aside for the actual nomadic pro at self's are the Spock and the phantom don't really have, these problems are much. But when it comes to the gimbal, now I explained before, you don't want to have this locking mechanism of a gimbal in when it turns up on. I'll just show you now if I remove it, I'm going to turn the drawing on when it's facing up. So watch the gimbal and how much it moves as the drug and tones on. That's it going through its self diagnostics and checking all its various things? Turn that off. You can imagine having this locking it implies is going to burn out that mode up very quickly and cause a lot of damage. You do not want that in place when you're turning your drone on. That's the first thing and the first specific Assad for the maverick, it also does apply to the phantom. If you have that locking plight in when you turn the journal and it's gonna do the same thing that Kim who's gonna do self-checking Turner random and everything, and it's going to burn out the murders. The second thing is a lot of people on the internet suggests that with this clear gimbal cover, what you do is you take out this, mentioned that. But then I say reattach to this, protects the gimbal. You can fly around with it if that'll bugs or things heated, it protects it. And that's a perfectly reasonable thing to suggest. And I totally understand where they're coming from, but they're actually missing a very important detail, which is how the havoc cools itself. Now, I have to type this off to show you, but hopefully you can see inside there those grills they intake for as the drone flies along like this, air comes in and it goes inside into those grills and cooled all the electronics throughout the body of the maverick. This part here is actually a heat sink. They were a careful sometimes can get quite hot. You're on a reasonably hot dying. You've been flying for awhile. You can actually burn your hand. Did you put your hand under it like that to try and pick it up or something. But having this cover on blocks, all that airflow that's coming in and after a number of minutes, it, you might start getting error codes or fluctuation. That's not going to tell you that the electronics are overheating or it's going to do is to stop erroring and permanently damaging those electronics inside. If you've ever had a computer or the hate, you probably know that it never tells you that it's r, The hating. It just starts crashing and glitching and doing all these other things and you have no idea what's going on when in fact your processor and all the electronics is just melting and frying underneath the hate. Never fly with this gimble on because it blocks the airflow. Sorry, I never turn on your drawing with this implies always get a good routine GYN of undoing them. I usually type of atoms the case. I'll take it out of the case. I'll remove the cover or remove the lock and I'll put them back in the case. Then I'll type this outside and begin my flying rituals. So that's how I ensure that one, I never lose them because I put them in the case. And when I come back to where the joining the case, they're there waiting for me, that I never do either of those things. Sorry. It is a good Siri to have this protecting and I understand where they're coming from but and never fly with it because you will damage your drawing long-term. That's just something I wanted to come up, particularly for the Maverick and also a little bit for the Phantom as well. The spot, you don't have to worry about it, it doesn't have those things. But that ends out this section. And next up, we'll be talking about the remote controls. Finally, I'll talk to you then. 11. Section 4 - 1 - The Mavic Pro Controller: Hey guys, and welcome to this section on controllers. To begin with, I'll be starting off with the mythic pro controller, which is what we've got here. As you know, the transmission distance for this is upwards of seven kilometers, which is fantastic. I think it's really good that they go nice and far because whilst you may not always be flying your drawing out to seven kilometers and especially that's not legal in your area to have an outside of your visual line of SWOT, you definitely shouldn't be flying at seven kilometers. Having that extra powerful transmitter and receiver capability all the way out to seven kilometers makes it Fantastic Four, even if you're at a smaller distance like I, even upwards of a kilometer. And there's lots of interference from Pabst Wi-Fi router as other people flying. There's always interference coming from every which way and direction in today's world. So it's good that I have a nice strong transmit and receive unit. To begin with. You want to extend the bottom ohms, which of these two things here? And if you've got a small phone like one of the smaller iPhones, I like a five-eighths or something. You can keep it nice and small if you've got one of the bigger ones, like say the Galaxy Note, can go all the way out to quite a large distance. I've got a Google Pixel XL is the Excel version. As you can see, there's still plenty of room on either side of that as well. So it does expand out quite far and pretty much accommodates almost every phone that's out there. Doesn't do tablets, unfortunately, you can't get third-party accessories that do it and it's not covered here at the moment. Next up, you have the actual antennas and that's what these things are here. Be gentle with them. These are quite stiff and you can be quite harsh within the antennas. Just be careful with them. They are strong but like hand snap off relatively easily if they get caught on something. Now, one note is that as dictated by DJI themselves, as I'll show in this diagram here. You want to have the antenna straight and not crossed. Never do it like this that will interfere with each other. It's not what you want. It'll give you a crap signal. Have them nice and straight like this. And try and have an angled a bit as well. The angle down and upwards, depending on how high your drawing is, the higher it is, you want to try and face your controller up to the drone term. It's not some high in the air directly and bond view, even holding it up like this will give you better signal. As a drone comes down more in front of you, you can push it down and basically just aim the two antenna at your drone for best signal. Now, the controller itself connects up to you if iron via the USB port here, which travels around the back and plugs in there. And this, this will actually charge your phone while you're using the controller, which is fantastic. It doesn't charge it fully. It is unlike charges are fully via the USB port. But because flying the drawing and having the screen on broad and sending all the data and displaying the video and all that takes up so much battery, at least on my phone and a few other phones I've tried. It won't increase the charge on your phone, but it won't die as quickly. If you start with 80% and you fly around for a bit, say 20 minutes or something like it might go down to maybe 70% or something like that. If it's not plugged in and it's not charging, it would've gone down to maybe like 50 or 40% of thing. So it doesn't, you're not going to put it on it 80% fly around for a while and come back on a 100% better, basically makes your phone last a lot longer. And inside here, it's got a 2970 milliamp hour battery inside, and that's what he uses to parents often charge. And that's about the same size as large phone app at the moment. As I said, it charges via this RCA cable, which is this cable here. You can see that it slides back and forth to help you position it. Sort of snakes in under here, Todd to sort of see, you can see the cable there. And then finally into this micro USB port here on the side. Now, this cable here, it comes with the magic probe. And there's also two other cables. This one's the USB type C and C the *****. It also comes with a lightning adapter for iPhones and also a micro USB for other older Android phones that don't have the new USB-C standard on them. So that comes with the iPhone one installed by default. So I had to actually remove it and thread it out. Just sort of push from here and it will pop out there. It's quite fiddly to sort of put it back in and get it all set up and whatnot. But it's something that you only have to do once, unless for some reason you're switching between iPhone and Android phones constantly, it might get a bit annoying to do at once because, well, I've had my phone, I haven't changed it. That's the RCA cable. The best way to insert and remove a phone without damaging it. So to do this, I'll use my Google Excel. As I said, the best way that I've found is to position it. You want to make sure first of all, this cable, sometimes it can lean in woods like that. And if you try and insert your phone in, obviously it's not going to go in properly. So you want to, from the back to sort of make sure it's positioned nicely in the middle sort of thing. And I found the best way is to actually count. Put your phone in like that sort of easily in from that side first. So I'll try and demonstrate on train, line it up and you just sort of push it in. Like so that's now locked into the USB-C down the bottom there. You also want to beforehand make these as wide as possible. Once it's locked into USB C section. Brilliant round than just squeezed together, line it up so it's nice and stable. You don't have to worry about these points here, doing damage to your phone. I've used, as I said, on a number of phones and I've never seen any damage to be a bit careful with it. Obviously, it is your phone or probably cost you a decent amount of money as well, but that's how you insert the phone without damaging it. So it's connected via USB directly to the remote control. And from there it'll communicate and through the video link, you'll be able to control and all that sort of address. That's how you put the phone in to take it out. It's just a simple simple matter of reversing. So first, you pull this part out as wide as possible, then as I said, I sort of just basically pull it out like that. Generally don't want to force it. Otherwise, you might do damage to the USB port either on the bottom of your phone or to the cable itself. The cable itself isn't a huge deal. It can be replaced quite cheaply and you can buy them from the DJI website. But obviously, if you can avoid it, it's probably a good thing. Now that we've gone out to put your phone in an F want to go through all these buttons and everything that's actually on the controller itself. To begin with. We have the power album, obviously up top here. If you press it once, it'll tell you the battery percentage, this is about half-full. Over here, you have the return to home button. So when you press that it will activate the return to home function. Obviously, in the middle here you have your two joysticks. Now, these actually have a few different modes. So the first mode is mode one, and that's where the left stick serves as the throttle. That would be this one here. So that means that will push it forward, that will push it back. Mode two, you have the right stick serving as the total. So that's this one over here. So forward and back. Now, mode two is the default, and I would probably recommend sticking with it for me when I started using it. It was the natural thing like I have flowing out of the stuff before. But at that same today, want most people use as well. Judging from videos on YouTube, you're seeing on the pilots fly, most people use mode two, so you're going to be willing to fly their drawings or their airplanes. They're probably going to be doing it in mode two as well. So I'd recommend just keeping it at the default. The other final mode is mode three, and that's again with a lift stick serving as the throttles forward and backwards. However, other parts are being changed. You can have a look in the manual or online to see exactly what the difference between the three modes are. It also shows you in the DJI app, which we'll cover later. But for now I just recommend sticking with mode two. After that, we have the flight pause button, which is this bottom. What this does is anytime throughout any of your flight, you can press this button and it will stop any of the automatic modes that are happening. So this includes the return to home mode. So if you're returning to the homeland and you just want to stop at for whatever reason you can just hit that. If you're in any of the intelligent flying meds, you can also press that perhaps it's doing active track and United States, it's about to crash into a tray or something that will fly backwards into something, you can just hit that stop instantly. There's also an buttons on the actual app that you can do. You can also hold down the throttle button for a number of seconds and that'll cancel as well. But that's by far the easiest button to press to just cancel any automatic flight mode, whether the drawing is flowing itself. Over to the right. We have the five-day button. Now, the five-day button is actually quite handy. It's configurable. And by default, that's kind of like a joystick in itself. You can push it up, you can push it down, left, right. You can also press the button as well. The joysticks can't press, but you can do whatever. This is. Configurable, configurable button that you can configure five separate things. By default, so going left is zooming in. Zooming out, up is putting the gimbal forward and down is putting the Qin Bu down. Pressing the actual button will bring up the intelligent flat menu, which will let you choose your Active Track and all those sorts of things. Now going up to the top, I'll just close these here, make it easier. Up to the top, we have the camera settings dial. So this one, c is over here, the camera settings doll. And this one can control things like ISO or shutter speed. So if you're flying around, you just want to crank up the ASO a bit. You can also configurable in the app as well. On the other side you have the other jog wheel, which is for the gimbal. This one doesn't infinitely rotate as well. We slide up or down, but that will take the gimbal up or dance this ones. You'll find that you'll be using this one quite a fair bit. The arm, we have the camera button and the video record button, so they're pretty obvious ones. Start, Stop Record. Take a photo, all those sorts of things. And on the side here you'll see there is a Sports Mode button. Now, this one goes into two separate modes. There's a P mode for positioning. And what that is is the standard normal mode that the drawing will come in. By default. It uses the GPS and the VPS. Vps is the visual positioning systems. So those are the cameras that are underneath the drawing. And it uses those to stabilize. It also uses it to do the intelligent flight mode. All those sorts of things are available as per normal in P mode, the positioning mode. If you click the switch over, you can put it into S mode or sport mode. Obviously, sports mode will make it go faster, it becomes more agile. The top speed is increased rod up towards full 65 kilometers an hour or 40 miles an hour. And I must say, it's a lot of fun to fly them havoc in sports mode. I tried it out recently and just the agility and speed and quickness of it. It is absolutely fantastic, but I would highly recommend waiting at least a couple of weeks to get you used to actually flying the drawing first before you sort of kick it up into flat, into sports mode and all those sorts of things. So another thing to note about the sports mode is that by default, when you purchase your drone, even if you clicking towards stride awhile, sorry, click into it straightaway to go into sports mode, it won't actually work. You have to go into the settings of the DJI app and actually enable multiple flight mode before it will actually work. So I'll show you a bit more in the DJI at section, but you essentially go into Settings aircraft, and then enable them multiple flight modes. Once you've done that, then you can come back and actually toggle the switch here. If you just try and toggle it straight out of the box, it won't do anything. So I don't think it's not working. It's just an extra bit of safety that they have nothing on. We have the C1 and C2 buttons. On the C1 and C2 buttons, you've got this one here, which for me is the left side. So this side here. For this one, the default setting for it is to actually focus on the center area of the screen. However, you can configure out both of these as well. So there's even more configurable buttons. The C2 button, or on the right-hand side is the playback or delete of white points. You may not use that too often. This one you might use quite a fair bit. The final ones is you'll notice this bottom USB port. Now there's the other USB port over here, That's the micro USB. This is a full type, a USB thing. Note, this is a big one to remember. If you have this plugged in and you also plug-in your device to this so you can plug in a full USB size things. So you're putting your tablet or something like that. If you plug it into there, make sure this port is unplugged and taken out because otherwise it won't work. That's just a note to anyone who's wanting to use a tablet or wanting to connect the device by there, make sure this port isn't plugged in. Otherwise you're going to have troubles. That we've covered all the knobs and dials and buttons all over the place. We can turn it on. Pressing once on the power button, as I said before, will give you the percentage power. What you want to do to actually turn it on just like the drone and just like everything else out there you want to press, press and hold. And it will boot up and automatically start trying to connect to a drone in the body. Now obviously, that's not gonna work because there aren't any drones that are on Nearpod. And what we're gonna do now is go through all these onscreen. Due to ads and things that will be popping up if it was to actually connect up on the screen here you've got your list of all the screen information and all the little bits and pieces. So as you can see on your screen now, this is what your LCD for the big pro controller would look like. In the very center, you ignore your system status prompt, which is telling you you're ready to go or whatever status of your drawing is. Over to the right, we have your flight mode, is usually GPS if you're flying outside. It will also give you your GPS signal strength. That flight mode can change to different things like in the sports mode or ITI mode or any of those other ones. Moving idea, I've got the aircraft battery level, which is quite critical to know if you don't have the phone with the DJI app on it, so you can fly with just the remote controller on its own, with the remote control at and your phone LinkedIn to it. And you can even fly them havoc with just you foreign as well and Wi-Fi mode. But I'd recommend using the controller. Otherwise, having that aircraft battery level in there is quite critical. Just as critical is the RC signal strength over to the right there. Then on either side you've got your flight speed and motor rotation speed. This is Just a bit of handy information and you can have, I personally never really looked at it. The speed can be nice sometimes, but most of the time I'm focusing on the actual phone itself. Other information going down is the microSD card, the sports mode, whether that's activated or not, you've got your flight distance, how far away your drone has flown from you. And then you've got your exposure compensation, which he may or may not may or may not know what that's about. Unless you do photography. Continue on. You've got whether or not you're ascending or descending your flight altitude as well as your camera status According or you're taking a photo. And you've also got your vision systems status and distance to the gray on the distance of the ground and the flight altitude are a bit different, but they displayed both from there, which is always handy. Finally, you have the remote controls battery level itself. So all those bits of information you can look down at anytime and say, which is very handy, especially if you're not actually flying with your phone. If you're just flying with the controller itself. I have had in the past a few times the DJI GO app crash a few times. And as such, it's very handy to essentially have the control of the independent of the app. And you still have a lot of the information there, like how much battery you have and all that sort of stuff. So it's very handy to have that information at all times. One of the final pieces of information that you need to know about the controller is how to actually charge. Move this out of the way. I bet you saw you're charging block before. This is what you use to charge your battery. With the MacBook Pro, you can also charge your control all at the same time, as well as your phone if you want as well, or two controllers on two phones. Whatever your pleasure, not based on obviously this will plug into the wall. You get your USB cable that came with it. Get barely over y. And then this top port up here, the one that connects your phone to the controller is just plug it in. And of course it's USB, say you have to turn it around. And also we'll plug that in. The controller itself takes up to two hours to charge. It can take a decent amount of time, but you're going to probably be charging the battery at the same time as wealth. It's not too much of an issue. That's how you charge the controller. Make sure you put that back in afterwards. Now, out of the box, the actual controller itself will come linked to your nomadic Pro. So you should never really have to manually unlink them that perhaps you damage your controller or maybe you get a second control automatic connection will be flowing with two controllers, can have a primary and a secondary control. That way you can have one person flying, one person controlling the camera work and a lot. So the staff side, maverick is quite professional as the prior name in it sounds. But either way, if you ever need to link the control out to your drone, you will need to go through a few steps. The first step is to start off the drawing startup, the controller, and you also need to start off the DJI, go for app as well. So you need all three of them connected and started up. You enter the camera visa, the main go fly view of the app, which I'll show you in a next section, but go detail more in the next section. But you can see here on the screen what I'm talking about. So you go into the main camera view and you tap on the button up the top, and then go to linking primary RC. Once you've done that, the actual ASI will be linking, you need to go to the drone. Then in that little slot that I showed you before where the microSD card is, there's a little tiny Link button on their sides, very small. You'll probably have to get a pin or something to push the button on it. That will put the drone itself in linking mode. You're gonna few LED is flashing, eventually it will go solid green. The little LED That's also next to the microSD card in that little tiny spot, that will go green and the OSI, and the drawing will then be linked. Once again. That's the full mark per remote controller overview. Hopefully now you know everything there is about it and all the little details, everything like that. What all the buttons do, as I said, has got quite a lot of customizability. You can customize these buttons. You can customize that button. You can customize this little five-day button here on numerous different things. It's an excellent controller that's very, very solid. Charges your phone, it's got a nice screen that's very easy to see in daylight. It's all around. Just a fantastic controller I think, and I haven't had a single issue with it at all for the entire time that I've been using it. So they've done a fantastic job. Good work. Dji. Next we'll move onto the Spock controller, which is very similar but has a number of critical differences. I'll talk to you then. 12. Section 4 - 2 - The Spark Controller: Welcome back to the second part, which is covering the Spock controller. Now, I'll be demonstrating with a maverick. You begin the motor control our game, but also do some overlays to point out the differences. To begin with, the very first that a lot of people ask is that you cannot use the maverick per remote to control the spark. And you can't do the opposite and have the Spock control, control the maverick, they are not compatible, you cannot do that. So don't think that you can and go out buying stuff thinking that you can. Another major point is that to get the medevac, sorry to get the spark controller, you have to purchase it separately. It doesn't come in the bulks locked the medic per control it does. It must be purchased separately. And I would highly recommend that as I said, it, because it does increase that transmission distance all the way up to two kilometers, which is pretty **** important. Not as far as the seven kilometers that the maverick pro controller does, but took long it as is quite good. And as I said, you're probably not gonna be flying at too much further than maybe one kilometer, maybe two depending on how good your eyesight is, especially with a spark being so small, I, it don't think too many people will be able to see it very clearly. Post about 1.5 kilometers or so. Kilometers is quite good. As I said, most countries have visual line of sight as a legal requirement for flying your drone. The controller itself is very similar to the medic per controller, there are a few key differences. One of the first ones and the main one is that there's no LCD screen like he on the havoc one. Now, they do have a couple of buttons, sorry, a couple of LEDs in the place of it. I have four on the right-hand side which gives you your battery level. It also indicates when you turn it on and off. And they have another one on the left-hand side for your Wi-Fi connection. And when it's red, that'll mean you have no Wi-Fi connection or when it's greater, means you do have a Wi-Fi connection, so pretty, pretty good. The other main difference is that on the Spock control off, it doesn't have both dials up the top here it only has this gimbal control dial on the left, there is no ISO or shutter speed control ability with through a doll. You can certainly do it through the application on the phone, but you can't do it, it just quickly with a physical button like you can on nomadic. There's also fewer customizable buttons. There's no 5D pad. And although you do have to customizable buttons, one of them is into place at the dial up here. And in place of the five-day button here. You do still have to customizable buttons. However, the maverick pro controller has a lot more of them with the five-day button, the other two, the drug dog. It's just a favorite, more customizable. The other major thing is that the sports toggle has been moved to the center area. And also there is quite critically no USB port on the side. So you may not notice that straight off the gate, but there is no USB port on the side. Instead, in order to connect to your phone, it connects via Wi-Fi. You can also still connect via USB if you need to. That's done on the bottom port, which is a marker USB. You'll see here that the map is full sized, taught by the one on the spock is a marker USP. So that's again, another small difference. Once again, if you purchase the fly more combo with DJI, the controller itself will go Come linked to the drone so you don't have to worry about this. But if for some reason you perhaps it gets damaged and you get a replacement, maybe you borrow the drawing to start off with. And then later on you decide you want the controller so you purchase it separately. Whatever might happen, you may need to actually pair it manually. So to do this, the first thing similar to the medic you power on the drone and the remote control. Once you've done that, you hold down the power button for three seconds on the actual drone itself. So the back power button on the drawing you press and hold for three seconds. The front LEDs will start blinking red indicating that it's in link mode. Third, you press and hold the flight pause button, the function button, and the customizable button all at the same time on the remote control. A bit of a weird combination. I think that's the point. So no one never accidentally presses them all at the same time, pressing all at the same time. And lastly, the lats will flash red, then start blinking green, and then hopefully it goes solid green, indicating that the remote control and the drone have finally paired. So that's how you actually pay your remote control. If for whatever reason it becomes unpaired or whatever, hopefully you shouldn't have to do that. I should just compared with the Jerne, if you buy the fly more combo. Moving on, we have the USB port on the bottom. As I said, it is a full type a, not a micro USB. This is used to actually charge the remote control are, but you can actually also plug your phone into it. I'd probably recommend this because there's been reports that connecting to the controller via Wi-Fi causes glitches and stuff. Perhaps deja, I will update this with a firmware update or something like that. But from my expertise in telecommunications and signal interference by not too sure how much they can sort of do. Because as I said before, these controllers, they transmit at 2.4 gigahertz, and that's the exact same frequency that Wi-Fi goes out. So what they've essentially done is put a phone broadcasting on 2.4 gigahertz, right next to the controller that's trying to transmit and receive also a 2.4 gigahertz. I'm not sure why, but they've essentially forced you to put a the phone that's interfering with your radio signal right next to your remote control. Or it doesn't seem like the smartest thing to me. Perhaps they really wanted to save on spending money on a cable or something like that. But whatever the reason I did it and there's been reports that it's been causing some glitches and some sort of disconnect issues in the last set of staff are highly recommend. Buying a cable. Cable does not come with the Spock ADP by the fly. More cumbersome. You need to buy a separate little, basically this cable and little USB cable. So USB-A to lightning, USB-C, whatever it is that you have on your phone. And again, the other benefit of doing it as if you have that cable, not only will you get a more solid connection to your remote control, but you also have your phone be charged as well. So I think the physical cable is a far better solution. And then connecting over Wi-Fi, if your phones blasting out Wi-Fi has the screen on full brightness is churning through lots of calculations with the DJI app because it is quite processor-intensive. That's going to kill your phone battery pretty, pretty effective way. Hooking it up via cable just means that it doesn't need to broadcast that Wi-Fi, which also doesn't interfere with your remote control up pluses getting a charge. I think it's just all around better hooking it up via USB, sir. That's what I'd recommend to do. And that's pretty much the only difference between the spark and the medic pro controller's. Everything else that I explained before with the maverick control are still Applause. Well, the same joysticks and saying pause buttons, return to home. You've got the record and take photo button, the same thing with the antennas and positioning placement for it sort of stuff. Exact same placement of the phone, plugging it in, that sort of stuff. Or identical, just that moved around a couple of different volumes and removed the screen. So that's the spark control. Next up, I'm going to have a chat about the phantom controllers. So I will talk to you. 13. Section 4 - 3 - The Phantom Controller: Going and welcome to the final section on controllers, which is the phantom that series controllers. So here you can see a phantom series three control. I'm also show photos of the phantom for pro controller and the Phantom four per plus controller. The main difference between those two is that the phantom for PRO, that GO 300 comes with no screen. So it's similar to this. You get a little holder for your mobile DevOps. Whereas the phantom for PR plus or the jail 300 series control actually has a built-in screen, so it actually has a built-in DJI. My Android powered DeVos that they run the DJI go for app on. Very difficult to say. That's the differences between the two fandom for remotes. Other than that, it looks very, very similar to this, almost identical. The phantom for Pro Remote also uses the 5.8 gigahertz band to help avoid that interference. Lot of speaking all of them in the 2.4 gigahertz section. So it uses both 2.4 gigahertz and 5.8 gigahertz. With the bigger amount, you can also use either a phone or a tablet. Sorry, here, you can either put a phone up in portrait mode. You can have it in landscape mode or demonstrate that in a bit lighter. You can also extend this part out a little bit and actually put a full size tablet in there. So that's one of the main differences between the bigger size remote and the small maverick remark. As I said, the magic and spark remote, you can technically fit a tablet with them. You need a special accessory for it doesn't come with it with this straightened out of the box. You can use a tablet. And a lot of people enjoy using a tablet because you can not only see a lot more detail and what you're filming and what you're actually doing. But all the controls, because there are quite a lot of controls on the DJI go for app. All those controls, a better space doubt It's not as clotted and crammed into a tiny screen, even with the bigger phones these days, it's still relatively crammed, but not too bad. I haven't had too much of a problem with it, but I do understand, especially if you have some troubles with eyesight, you might want the biggest screen and you know, the biggest screens row-wise better just in general. So now that we've gone through the differences, I just wanted to go through the actual controller itself. So once again, you've got your power button, which is heel. You can press it and it'll give you your power status down. He is roughly three-quarters full. You've also got a status icon for the actual remote itself. And that can give you certain different statuses like red or solid red or error cards, that sort of thing. On the right-hand side, you've got the return to home button here. So that's exactly the same as on the Maverick and Spock, you press it. Drawing comes back to you. Again. You've got the controllers, you've got the different modes. Exactly the same as the Spock and the DJI maverick pros are. It's actually a very good all three remote are different, but essentially the sign, they've all got their quirks and whatnot are different use cases, as I said before, but generally, if you find a magic, you can pick up a phantom. If you find a phantom, you can pick up a spock remark and it's pretty much just plugging apply. The oldest isn't assuming they're on the same mode as well, you shouldn't have any trouble with either. You'll know where their record and applied by either. Take a photo button is the same with the dolls and all that stuff. They are slightly different, which I'll cover in a second. But it just wanted decided that it's very good that they're very consistent with the controls throughout all the different lineups of drawing. Even though the Spark is a very different drawing to the phantom series. If an item is huge, as for film professionals, the spock is small and for drawing selfies or just people having fun down or beige or something like, like not. The control was a role. Very similar sets. Always nice to have. You've got the power button, the return to home button as well. Pushing once as I said, we'll show your battery level if you want to actually turn it on, it's the same deal. You press want and then press and hold on. It comes as I said, you got the status here. It's going to stay red because it's knowing drone to connect to her. But if there was it returned green, turning it off is exactly the same as everything else and press and hold turns off nice and simple. Left and rot stick. Again, it depends which mode you put it in. You got mode 123 with two being the default. Up the top, you have the same configurable scroll wheel as you do with the medevac pro control. And on the left-hand side you've got the gimbal control, just the same as the havoc and the spot control. Now this will be a little bit different to the Phantom four. This is one of the few differences between the three series control and the full series control. As I said before, I'm trying to demonstrate as many different combinations as possible. So if you have the full remote, this fall series remote, this would be a bit different, but the people that have the three series remote, I can also see what the difference is. The three series remote. You have a p and a and an F switch up here. Whereas with the actual phantom series for remote control is you actually have a P, S, an a on the top there. The pay mode is the same in both of them. Again, that's the positioning mode and standard mind that will come with your drawing and what you can just use. And I move the object avoidance. It uses both GPS and the Visual Positioning System that VPS to steady the drawing and make sure that that's all happy and doing its thing. Next up we have the switch. Now this is a little bit different between the phantom three and phantom for the phantom three series will notice it's got the F, which stands for function mode with the Phantom four and actually has the sports mode. So I've explained what sports mode is before. It takes out object avoidance. It makes a drawing more agile and quick off. That's not for beginners use, it's for professional and people who, well understanding of the drawing and know what to expect sort of thing, the mode is actually stolen, both of them and that's for the ITT I am mode. This is good for flying indoors because it actually doesn't use the GPS or the VPS that only uses the barometer inside the drone to steady itself. I'm not sure why you would really want to use this outside of perhaps flying in doors. But you can always say, imagine if it doesn't have GPS and doesn't have VPS is gonna be a lot less steady to try and fly. You're gonna get lots of drifting and all that sort of stuff. So probably not that good to actually use out the kth mode or smart, but there are the other options for you. The other main difference between the phantom three series and the Phantom four series remote is up here. You'll notice that the pause button actually has a play symbol on it, but it does do the same thing. Up top here you've got the take a photo camera shutter button and you'll recording button obviously. You've also got the C1 and C2 buttons on the back. Again, configurable, configurable controllers. You've got a nice little handle to not only rested Dan Lok, sorry, but also if you want to pick it up, It's very solid spot to think it out from. I'd suggest handling it from either there or from the side. The main body of the actual controller to get the best results. Now, on the back, you've gotten the actual full size USB port and the marker USB port. This full-size one is where you will plug your phone or your tablet into. That just comes around here and plugs into the solid of your DevOps. This other point here is for firmware updates or getting logs, those sorts of things. On the side here you have the PowerPoint now it usually comes with a little in our silicon cover that goes over it. They careful they do come off. As you can see here. What this is is for recharging the controller. As I said, you will have your here, you will have your power brick, and it's simple. Plug-in power. Good. I didn't have a bit big battery inside and I do take a little bit longer than say the maverick or the Spock controls. Finally, we have the main section or PSR up here. We have the foreign hold on there. If you want to put your phone in on a landscape position, you will need to use these sections here so they're little fate that eventually go down. It will push this side thing here so it extends all the way up. You'll also want to be careful of buttons hitting things. So I'm just going to put this room OK that it sits in there and then you just pushed down until it's nice and secure. If you've got iPad or something like that, you can extend it all the way out. Flip the title tablet on its side. Heart flight, it will fit in there. You can also obviously have your phone upright, like Sorry, That's how the farm sits in there and it sits in there very solid and quite easy to use. This also folds down heel and out of the wire when you're storing it, again with the antennas. Be very gentle with them. Same position for optimum. Use is nice and straight. Don't cross them over. One of the main difference between the phantom series 34 is this little piece here. They've changed to the metal in the phantom for series. Once again, plugging in your phone to the USB port while you're using it will charge your phone while you're flying. And it's just generally again, an Orion fantastic remote. You can easily control, easily change Gimbels, record, play, pause, all those sorts of things. It's just again, a fantastic controller that I've never had any issues with whatsoever. So finally, if you ever need to link the control off to the actual drone, need to go through a couple of steps. Again, it'll come linked out of the box so you shouldn't hopefully not have to do this, but if anything happens, maybe it gets replaced. Maybe you want to link up a second one. This is how you link the control out to the drug. So first of all, you need to turn everything on the control off, put the DJI app connected to it, turn it on. Turn on the actual drone itself. No connected. Once you've gotten that, select the Gulf lie and tap on the remote icon as I'm showing you here in the app. And then go to linking ACI button, which is down below there. Now once you've done that, the remote control should be in linking mode. Again, just like the maverick need, the micro SD card will be a very tiny Link button. They will need to press probably with a pin. And once you've done that, the link LED will go solid green and the RC will be linked to the drawing itself. Hopefully now you know everything about all three remotes and you're all up to speed. And we can now get into the really technical staff, which is the DJI app. I'll talk to you then. See you there. 14. Section 5 - 1 - Setting Up The DJI App: Welcome to this section which is all about the DJI Go application. To begin with, your first, obviously have to download and install the application so that you can actually use it. And that's what this section is all about, setting up the DJI app. Now before you go badly download and install the application and go through all that, I do want to note that there are actually two different versions of the application. So what you can see here on the screen is the very first application that DJI originally released, which is DJI. You can see it here on the Google Play Store. And you'll notice that it's now been changed to four products before Phantom four series. This is actually for all the devices that have before the Phantom four, sorry, these are things like the phantom 123 series drones, the Inspire one series drawings, and just basically all the dreams that they've had before that. Now there are two versions. The more current and up-to-date version that you'll want to download is the DJI go for app, which you can see here. Andy's for drones. Since the phantom for this is for drones like the Phantom four series, the DJI Knaflic Pro. And of course the DJI spark, which is just being released. If you have any of those three drones, please get this DJI go for application and make sure that you have the right one for your drone. Now, to start with, you'll want to obviously download it. And just to be extra careful. The guard for app is about a 140 meg on the Play Store currently and on the iTunes Store it's even bigger. It's either 400 meg as you can see here. So I would definitely suggest obviously going onto water and downloading that, not doing it. Ideal telephone data connection, that's probably not a good idea. But once you have downloaded and installed it, you will need to agree to the terms and conditions. I'm sure that'll be a hoot to read through. And then you'll actually need to create an account with Sorry. You can either create an account on the phone itself. You can actually sign up on the website. So if you go to just the DJI go home site, you'll notice up here, there's a little man in the corner. You can just click on Register like this. And it'll take you through to a register page where you can fill in your day tiles, cream account, lots of stuff with a full-size computer and cable, a massive you didn't like talking at all in on your phone. And then you can login on your phone that way. Or you can just simply create an account on your phone as PER what's showing here on this little screenshot. Once you've downloaded and installed and agreed to the terms and conditions and created your account and signed in. You will be graded with the home screen of the application, which is what you will see most times when you actually logging into the device, login to your drawing and do all that sort of stuff. So this is what you'll say by default, and this will change to a blue that will enter device down the bottom right-hand corner, which is underlined with black, will change to blue once your drawing is actually connected and you'll be able to enter the device and stop flying it. And we'll cover that in later sections about all the different settings and details and parts of this application, because there are a lot of parts to begin with. It's just setting up and installing the application. The final piece that I just wanted to note is that on Android, when you actually plug in the USB cable from the remote controller to your phone, when you connect the two together, it will ask you if you'd like to auto launch the DJI go up each time so you'll get a pop-up that looks like this, where you've got your DJI go for application and it's asking me to use by default for this USB accessories. So you want to take this like it's showing here on the screen and press okay. That means that every time you plug-in your device to your remote controller and turn it alone, it will just automatically launch the application. It's one less thing you have to do That's very handy. Unfortunately, it only works on Android for now. They may bring it to iPhone later on, but it's been quite a while and it still is in here. That's the DJI go for application. As you use it over the years, you'll probably notice that it's not the most stable application in the world and is a very, very good application, but it does tend to glitch or hanging sometimes and even crash mid flight. I don't have it doing that hugely often. In my experience, it greatly helps you to have a nice, powerful new device. It is very resource intensive, displaying the video, doing all the calculations, sending, receiving all the data over the remote control and interfacing and all that sort of stuff. That's that's quite taxing on the Vasa. If you have a two or three or even older, year-old ION device, that's probably not going to work too well. You'll probably get it crashing more often or that sort of stuff. Also for the Android application, it does have specified phones which are compatible and other ones which as compatible. The main ones that people seem to have best luck with. The Samsung Galaxy series, ones like the SA node and the SA plus or seven or S9, also support the Nexus series phones like the Nexus six pay or the Google Pixel series of phones as well. All those ones are very well-supported by DJI. There are a number of other ones as well By have devices listed on their website. But just in general, makes sure that you check your phone and whether or not it's fully compatible with the application. Because otherwise you might see a bit of instability in the, so obviously the iPhones are all supported because there's just iPhones. But as I said, you do want to make sure that it's a good new high powered device, if possible, to handle all the complex calculations that get done whilst the app is running. Also tablets are compatible as well. As I said, especially with the phantom series, people locked to have the big screens and the tablets and all that sort of stuff. So things like the Apple iPad to the Samsung Galaxy Tabs, well-supported with the application. Outside of those, it's a bit of hipness. Do try the application. It hopefully should work fine. But also there are no problems that's installing and setting up the app and everything you need to know in regards to that. We'll move on to the next section, which is the actual application itself. I'll talk to you then. 15. Section 5 - 2 - DJI App Overview - Downgraded For SkillShare: Welcome to this second part of this section, which is all about the DJI app. Now, to break this down a little further, because it is reasonably complicated that age up. I'm going to split this one section into two different parts. The first part will be about the application that you can see. The application has many tabs down the bottom here. And we'll be covering those as well as the hamburger icon up in the top right-hand corner here. And that's just the general settings for the application and the few different things that you can do in the application. Second part of it will be a bit more complicated part, which is what happens when you actually connect to your drawing and click on that growth file into DeVos button down the bottom there. That's where you actually go and control the drawing and actually go and fly the drawing. Won't be doing that in the second part for now, let's just go through the general app. If you haven't looked at the application here. First go to the hamburger icon at the top and you can see that there's a scan QR code. This section is for scanning the QR code, which is on your drawing. So you can quickly are the activate or connect to it. So that's what that section is for. Next up, we have the Academy, which is a fantastic section. You've got lots of different video tutorials. You've got flop tutorials, video don't the actual user manuals. Now, depending on which one you've selected, it'll automatically select the drawing that you have if it's actually connected. But if you want to browse other ones. So you've got mural considering borrowing the spark, you just have a look at all the videos for the Spark. These come direct from DJI and the very good videos, but they are somewhat limiting. And what they actually showed that there's still very good to have. And of course you've got the user manuals there. Volts. I got the similar item, which is excellent. However, as you can see here, that's filed to enter the flight simulator because the drum isn't connected. Now it's a bit strange why DJI of done this. But essentially, in order to use a simulator, you have to turn on your Drawing connected to the remote control or your thorn and have it on sitting idly by. While you actually use the cingulate. Seems a bit counterintuitive to me and probably to you as well. There's no good reason the DJI, I've given this. Some people think that it's to verify that you are a DJI customer, that you have purchased a drawing and they can see it connected. Some things don't really make sense, but here it is what it is. Sorry. Make sure you do have your drawing connected if you want to use the simulator. Next up we have the flat record, which shows you all your experience points and the turtle flying time you'll footprints and this is where you flown which countries you flowing in. Things like your tops bay, top altitude, all those bits of fun information that he can record. These are automatically recorded as you do each of your trips. And as you do over time, you can grab this little thing down here and pull up and see all the flight data that you've recorded over time. So this is the flats that you've typed in since you've started flying under that account. That's a handy thing you can have. It also has some settings and you can even sync it to DJ's service up there. Next up, we have the store, which is just obviously with DJI store. You can go there, you can buy some of the goggles or do whatever you please. After that, you've got the fine. My drawing there, this farm, my drawing section is for if you actually lose your drawing, maybe at landed somewhere and you know what exactly sure where it landed. The drawing is on and connected to your remote controller and within range, it'll track his GPS location and relay that back to you and you can it narrow and hopefully retrieve your loss droids and that's what that section is full. Then finally, we've got the flight restriction information section, which is a geo zone map, sorry, argument strategy. So obviously it's selected Australia or medically. Then we can scroll down and get a general idea of older no fly zones are the possible warnings arms that they might be in Australia. So for example, if we just zoom in on a bit of a random location here you can see the live near the husband International Airport. That's obviously no flaws. Scroll down and it will tell you what all the restricted zones are, the authorization zones, explaining to you what each of them are. It's a fantastic little resource that perhaps you're going to Europe and USA, maybe going to Germany or something like that. And you want to know, will you be able to fly your drone if you take it with you? So you can look at this application and get a bit of a quick ID on whether or not you might be able to fly there and I'll be covering it in a lot more data in the next chapter. That's on safety and what you're able to do with your specific country. So stay tuned for that. But this is a good set of prep course for what you can actually do. That's all the information in the hamburger icon up in the corner there. And also an idea you can select which does divorce. You have. Again, if you've got your device connected, it will automatically choose it for you. But you can have a bit of fun with it and save it. Maybe you want to aspire to and you can have a look what look like to have one of those huge drawings at your disposal site can have a bit of fun without moving over to the editor. You've got your albums and your creates sections. So your albums are where you can see all your photos and videos that you've taken from your drone when you actually fly it up and take photos and videos that's stored on the micro SD card on the drawing in full detail. It'll also strings back that video and those photos to your phone on the fly, wallets flying in stores, those slightly lower quality ones on the actual form itself. So this is where you find them when you want to share them or look at them, review them. Just as an example, you can see here fantastic photo I took off the ground. You can browse them and zoom in and out as you would normally. Looking at the create section, you can, with a few clicks, create like a quick video and we will float in automatically taught boring paces out and put interesting things together and make an awesome little video with music. You can choose what music, add that to it, and then share it off to any social network. So it is quite a handy feature and can produce some quite good videos as well. But if you want to do something more serious and professional and we will obviously have to get that original data off the drawing and use something like Final Cut Pro, Premier Pro. It's not going to make a proper version, but that is a good section to have. You've got the scar pixel section next, which is their social network, if you would, for DJI, you can view other people's photos, things that have shade. You can follow them on Twitter or something like that. You can follow if people. But it's just fantastic, I think to have a look at old photos and videos that they've posted up gives you a good idea of what types you can do. That's what that section is and you've got your reasons and following sections up here as well. So that also have competitions and tips and articles that I post there. It's good to have a look every now and again. Finally, you've got the main section, which is all your account details and sittings for the application. So you've got your account details here. If you click through, you can say, we all fans and followers and lots of stuff. You can go to a DJI store again, you can go to your filling into count. You can flop record again. You can go to the diegetic or forum or support for issues that you might be having with your drawing. I probably recommend posting something on the forum first. That's an excellent place to go. You already have your account because you've signed up with DJI, don't come. There's a lot of people on there that will help you out with any and all problems is even staff from DJI that frequently calling and all that sort of stuff. I did say though also sittings in here as well, you probably won't have seen it, but up in the top corner here is a little cities DO. If we tap on that, you'll see there's more settings for the actual application. Things like clearing your cache, checking for updates to the application, turning off cellular data, the privacy settings, something that I'd recommend going into and just turning off all the watermarks and all that sort of stuff. I don't know why anyone would want a DJI watermark over their photos, but luckily, you can easily turn it off. And that's pretty much all the settings and all the areas of the application will now move into part two, which as I said, we connect to the drawing in this section here, we'll go to blue and we'll be able to enter the drawing and look at those settings on there. Welcome back to part two. So now that we've got our actual phone connected to our control and we've got our drawing turned on. We're all connected and ready to go here. We'll go into that go fly section down the bottom so you can see down there and told that up in blurred. And the connected signal down in the bottom left-hand side is connected. So now we're going to tap that Go Fly button. And we're going to go into the main menu area. So as you can see here, I've just got this sitting on the floor, which is why to read and why it's complaining that there is no position. And we're currently in a TTI mode when this is actually outside. And then I'll show you this later once we go through basic flying well, that sort of stuff. The section at the top here, we'll say all flying. Now if we tap on that, it can go through all the lightest details and stuff. So you can see we've got the latest firmware. Our campuses all normal. Imu is all normal. Vision senses are all normal. Lets you customize the customers more buttons here. And brought down the bottom we can see our SD card and you can very easily just click in I would suggest doing that. At most times you fly, obviously if you haven't backed up your actual Delta first, I do it. But it is always handy. The last thing you want to do is be flying around and getting great shots. And you can't record because he SD college full of stuff that you had from the previous plot is a good idea to format your code each time 40 flawed. The guy in back out of that, we'll just go around fully clockwise. Up the very top here you've got the digit and I logo. If you tap that, it will just take you back to the main menu. So if healing by phone, you can click on that and hit back bulgur back into mine. There's a lot of stuff happening here. So I'll try and to sort of go over very quickly. Up the top. You have, as I said, the status of the drone turn leads in no position mode because weight in sod, it's very difficult for it to get satellites inside. You want to make sure that saying ready to fly and has GPS locks on it. Moving across, you've got that little green lawn underneath, which is your battery percentage. You've also got those two white dots to the left-hand side and that's your medium morning and critical warnings. So these are configurable and it'll cover those in a little. Moving across if you've got your current mode, which as I said, currently it's in a TGI mode because there's no GPS signal. Hopefully you all should say GPS when it's outside. Next to that we have the GPS satellite indicators. So there's a number of these indicators side-by-side wherever one by 1. First is the GPS satellites that should tell you obviously how many GPS had a lot to have connected to your drone. You'll want this to be a good 12 plus sort of thing. If you are adding the Earth and you want to make sure there's lots of satellites can do to it, giving it lots of stability so that it can get a good accurate position of exactly where it is. Sometimes it might be upwards of 20 or maybe less. But you want a good ten to 20 is a good route, reasonable. Lawn. Moving on from GPS, you've got the little dot where the radiating lines coming out of it. Now this is for your object avoidance on currently connected to a medic PRV that has object avoidance in front and the bottom, 40 old, faded and fall apart. You've got on the front and the back well, as the sides and all that sort of stuff. Sorry. Depending on which during that we're using, you may or may not have that full facades moving over there, say it's in red, obviously, I'll explain that right off. Whenever you got to be, you've got this indicator signal here, which is for your remote control. So that's the actual connectivity from the march itself to the drugs. So that's a very important one. If you want to, if I keep controlling your drawing, you don't want to lose that up next to it. You actually have a little HD with more bars on it. And this is a bit of a complicated thing, but the control actually send out two signals, and one of them is for the actual controlling of the drone itself. The other one is for the image that you see on your phone. So they're two separate links and they have two separate qualities. You may not be able to get a high definition video download from your drug. You still might be out of actually control it in Florida where that's what those two individuals and his main obviously it's not that important and you can see what the drawing is sitting as long as you can still control it. You can't control it and you might have some problems. It will hopefully return to home if that happens. You've got your battery percentage, which is currently at 96%. As I said, this is also represented with that green line up the very top. Continuing. Underneath that, we have the ISO and shutter speed as well as the exposure compensation value and also the white belt. So all of these are explaining laid out on the camera settings and stuff. If you don't know what ISO or exposure compensation or whatsoever selfies. I'll go over that a little more in our final section on photography and videography with drones and all that sort of stuff. But it's very similar to cameras. So that's what that section is. To slightly to the right of it. You've got what type of thing you're recording in, whether it's in JPEG or rule for still image, or perhaps for k or teenage P for video. And it also tells me next toward the capacity to current layer. I'm recording JPEG pictures and I can record over 6 thousand of them on the memory card that I've got. That's because I'm in picture mode, which you can see on the right-hand side here. If I were to type first step, it would take a photo and I can click this Play button down here and actually have a look at what the actual photo shooting it worked. Moving on, you've got your auto focus on manual focus. You can change that to manual focus, back to auto focus. Some of the drawings may not have this. This is the kinetic per obviously the family for PR and we'll also have this manual focus ability. The standard phantom forward doesn't. Yours may not have that. And then you've got the switch button here, which switches between video and camera lights and narrowed and the camera in video mode. And I can easily switch back to camera mode, damping up. Moving over to the left here we've got the takeoff buttons I view at a tap that you can take the door off. And we will, as I said, getting to that, when we go through basic fly, down below, we've got that gray down button, which is the return to harm bond. Obviously you need to be flying left to actually work. Then underneath that we've got the intelligent slot motor, which we will go over that in a separate more advanced flying. Underneath that we have the map here, which you can tap and zoom in and zoom out and see where you are. We can then tap the picture back and it will switch between them. Next to that you've got d for distance. You also have high H for horizontal distance. That is the horizontal distance or vertical distance. You also have the horizontal space and vertical speed in meters per second, as well as the visual position. Sorry. Moving on around the corner, you've got the settings for the actual photo and video and we'll go through that as well in a minute. But the actual mainstream he off, you'll see this little green square. You can focus on it. You can also hold down and draw the gimbal up or down using this sort of easy to Dr. thing. Or you can just simply use the controller, which is what I'm doing now. That's pretty much all the information on the actual gadfly section. There's even more. I haven't covered these three dots up here, which we'll go through in a minute. And also the settings for the cameras, which we'll also go through. But I just wanted to give you a very quick review and data on all the different sections of the main view off. In a minute, we'll go into the main settings. I just wanted to come out in one other point for those who have the DJI spark and who are only using their phones as a remote. So they might not have by the controller or the phantom control. I didn't buy the flow and more combo for the Spark you just bought. Just as VOC and nothing Gilson, you're controlling everything by your phone. It might be you just try out the phone for another thing. So while you will still have the usual screen, which I've explained, obviously a water bath. You will also have two onscreen buttons on your actual device. And I'll show an image of it here so you can see what I'm talking about. But you will be controlling the drone of width, your left and right founds upon the actual device on top of this interface that I've been explaining so far. Sorry, it does complicate things a bit more, which is why I strongly recommend that you do get the remote control because then you can actually control everything independently of your phone and use the phone simply as a viewfinder and have all that information displayed over the top of it because there is a lot of information displayed, as I've explained. But if you are just flying through the phone for a minute for that sort of thing, then obviously you have the left and right joysticks, which map to the left and right joysticks here, depending on which mode you have, depending on what they do. Again, I suggest for true, there is also a button in the bottom left-hand corner underneath the active track, which will enable disabled the actual on-screen controls. You can press that. That's one of the more unique features upon the actual Spock. Or when you are actually controlling the volume of the ball phone only. So just be aware of that if you've got the paint and prior or the Pro just the regular fandom, you obviously won't see that come up on your phone and on your interface parts of the Spock owners department, we will just wanted to cover that a little bit of extra thing to make sure that I've got all the various different parts for both the phantom series, dramatic series, and also the spark series. Generally speaking, it doesn't matter which one of the drawings you have. The interface is gonna be almost identical on different drones. There's different parts like there'll be different modes of active tracks as well. There'll be different intelligent flat nodes which we'll be covering later on as well. And I'll point out the differences between each of the drones there as well. Like I said in the actual menuing systems when you're under the controller settings on this side, it's gonna be different for Phantom controlling. This is unethical spot control off, but it's pretty logical. You'll be out to get them. It's just customization buttons in different spots versus different things. So I just wanted to add that little bit extra just to make sure that everything is covered in all three main drones I covered regardless of which one you have. And continue on with the rest of the century. Now we're going to have a look at the general settings section. And there's a number of ways that you can get into this. The main way to get into the full menu is by tapping the 3D points in the top right-hand corner like this. Once you do that, you're getting to the general settings section where you can do things like change from metric to imperial. You can change what the long press action does. You can choose your live streaming platform, lots of different things that you can do. So if you go even further, you can enable a Mac for China, mainland sort of thing, calibrate for China as well. I'm not in China of this and we're gonna be typing that. You can show the flat route, which is this little thing here. We'll draw up on the screen exactly the way your drone is growing. And Bain handy on suggested. You can also locally cached when recording. What they see is, is when you're actually out there flying around and you're recording video and recording photos and all that sort of stuff. It will be streaming that video back to your farm to watch live. And you can actually choose to have the phone record not in a slightly lower quality than what the drawing itself is recording to the Marco St. concept. I would also recommend that it's very handy and you can have final moments of your journey. You have to do actually crashed it or lose it. At least you've got something lower quality version of what you were doing stored on your phone for whatever you might want to use it for. But either way, it's also a good for you to instantly share on social networks as well and use that create a studio thing that I was showing you before in the edit section. So going back to the settings, you can also record audio with video and also sit you're videotaped capacity. Got quite a big storage amount. I'm going to sit up to seven. You can also set it to automatically clean up the video. And it will automatically clear the old videos out for you, which is quite handy. Moving on down, you can go through all the warnings and locking list and also sit your device name. Sorry, I've set mine is more than obviously, and you can choose whatever one you want. You can also have a look at the a dash, which is where you want to check for updates or see what version you're remote controllers on aircraft database, your application down by bullets sort of stuff. Moving on to the top, we have the MC settings. You can go and putting an identification number and the flat inflammation. Add that to drawing if you wish. But more important is the basic settings of the home point. Now, with the heart in point, you can choose one of two. The first one here sets the position to where you currently off. Obviously, you will need a good GPS signal for that, which we don't have at the moment because we're in solid. The other option is to sit the harm point Torah, everything actual aircraft ease. Now, the difference between that is you might want it to sit to a harm point when the germs out there flowing. Or you might want to just set it to weigh your remote control what is at the moment. You can choose between those two. You can also have a dynamic home point where the aircraft will continuously update the harm point according towards current position while trekking the person is inactive track mode. So let's a bit more complicated, but it is something you can do. Now the return to home altitude is actually quite important as I was discussing previously. This is walked to happen if you don't set it high enough so you view out flying and 30 meters, which is what this is currently set to true by default, is quite hot. We'll go over most treaties, but there's certainly a lot of buildings that will get in that white. If you want. You can go in and you can set that to something a little higher. Next up we have the intelligence light mode. So this is what I was referring to before, on the actual side of the controllers where you have the sports button, that won't actually work unless you actually enable smart mode. So this is where you go and you check enable intelligent flop modes and then allow you to change it over into sport mode and have a bit more Fund and that's what you want to do. Sorry, I suggest putting that on once you've actually done the hang, gotten the hang of the actual drawing and doing quite well. Next is the beginner mode, which will unite. It is something that's good to have bought. It does restrict your maximum altitude and your distance limits. I will say here var turn that on. It's going to limit that to 30 meters and change a whole bunch of settings. Pump will turn that off because we are not big enough. You can say it sets the maximum amount attitude to 30 meters and the distance limit to 30 meters. So we turn that back off. And it changes it back to the maximum altitude, which is a 120 meters or roughly 400 feet. And that's the maximum altitude that the outerwear allowed to fly in Australia. You can also set a distance limit of whatever you want. Wherever you choose. Go through too. Advanced Settings and you've even got more settings. You've got emergency stigma, which is that CFC combination that I was referring to earlier on. You've got whether or not you've got propel adults connected and you can even add cinematic mode gain. Now, you might not have all the settings depending on which drawing you have. As I said, this is connected to another. Typically if you have the phantom for PR, you'll probably say a lot of these settings as well, but there might be the few odd ones. You don't see if you simply have the Phantom four or perhaps this bar. So don't be too scared if you don't say old days on your drawing. As you're following bar. Next up, we have the visual navigation settings. By default, when you come into this, a lot of these things will be disabled. As you can see here. You'll want to turn on obstacle avoidance. I'm not sure why it comes disabled, but you can obviously, I'm very bored at your will. And you'll probably want to turn on the horizontal obstacle avoidance and tap to fly backwards flying and active track. This one's a bit of a different one. You might not want to actually enable this one. What this is trying to prevent is on something called havoc Pro the spot and even the Phantom four, I believe it doesn't do backwards truck object avoidance, so we'll do forward Avoidance. And if you try and smart into a treaty will stop you. But if you're active tracking, so this is the drawing and it's tracking May, and it's up here and it's flying backwards as I walk forward towards it. It's obviously not gonna be able to see what's happening behind it. And it can just fly into a building or a trail. Numerous things united. So you can have it actually disabled flying backwards and active trucks will just not do that dangerous maneuver. So that's what that is there for. Whether you want to turn that off, on, off, on, off is up to you. You can also enable object avoidance, just in general, div truck, which are obviously suggests to doing. And you've got even more enhanced vision settings, which you'll probably never touch because they're all quite handy. Sorry, you obviously want to enable the downward vision positioning senses. Again, that's for the medic Pro and the phantom full pro winding protection is the aircraft will check the landing area when landing Protection is enabled. So this will main that when you're going into land, will make sure that the ground is uneven and that sort of stuff that may put up a bit of a font. And when it detects that, it's a bit of a steep gradient that it might fall over if that happens. So that's what that section is. Therefore, it's a good thing to have turned on. Precision landing is another one that was released, just racing really. What this is is that usually when the drawing takes off, it hovers in the air for a minute or two and gets a lot of GPS signals and tries to try and guide exactly where it is and where the return to her position is. What the extra precision landing does is it actually takes a photo and actually roses off a bit higher than me. It takes a photo off the ground. And what it does is when it comes back, it comes back to that rough GPS location, might be somewhere in this two or three meter radius. Then it uses that photo that it took before and the photo on the video that it has at the moment to try and align both of those two to get it as accurately as possible to do precise landing wherever can do. That's what precision landing isn't again, it's something that you'll want to have turned on mode out. The return to home. Obstacle detection is another very good one. This is something that will work on of the drugs. So when you keep returning to harm and it's going along and it senses a building or a training its path, it will try and actively avoid that q-dot setting is on. So it is definitely something that you want to just turn on. And moving on from the advanced vision settings, we'll go into the remote control as Settings section. So this again will be different depending on whether you're flying a maverick correspond for a phantom series drawing. But it should be generally the same for most part. So starting off, we've got the remote control of calibration, which you have to power the aircraft off and then calibrate the remote. You can also use the fixed it mode so you can check there to enable level. Again, explain that in the lightest section on more advanced intelligent flowing modes. Next up you've got the remote LCD. So this will tell you all about the LCD for the mother. So that's what's connected, will be different depending on which one you're flying. You also have an option to change the stick mode. Now, I would suggest that you just simply stick with motor. Most places in the world use mode to button. There are a few places that you use different loads. If someone tries to come and fly your drone, though, most likely to expect that it will be in mode two. So that's why I'm suggesting to just stick with it and learn from that. If you don't like that, you can change to a different mode in that section. Moving on, we've got the bottom customizations. So that's for the C1 and C2 buttons at the back of the medic per control up. Again, with different controllers and different drones, you'll have different button customizations. But by the way, regardless of what controller or drone you have, diversity heal. Then you just tap the button and choose whichever one you want to come up. Very simple. Moving on. Again, this is the magic pros are that has its special five of the button customization. So that's this little button here. And that has obviously five separate ways that you can trigger up-down left rod and also pushing the button itself. But again, you can just tap on whatever one you want and choose what you want. You also have this remote control on linking section down here, which allows you to link a secondary rumored for some reason perhaps you broke your original remote tool, something happened to it and you were needed to replace it, or perhaps you're a spock or not and you bought a remote control for your spot that didn't come with a flaw and more humbler. You didn't get that combo and bought it later on. That's why you'd go to link your new remote. That is the remote control section. And now we'll move on to the image transmission section. You can see here it gets a little more complicated and technical. Generally, you want to keep the channel mode on auto. This image transmission section just generally deals with the transmission between the actual controller and the drone itself, as well as the image that Spain, since, you know how I said those two sections, one for the controlling of the drawing and month, the actual image that's displayed on your farm. This is the image transition transmission in section. So it will tell you how strong the signal is. They will tell you what type of mode you can put it in with. Regular or smooth. If you have the phantom for Pro, you can actually change this. And this is where you go to select whether you want it to be transmitting the image on 2.4 gigahertz or 5.8 gigahertz frequency. So you might want to set it to 5. I do the hertz frequency to make sure that it avoids the interference, say from wildfire would just other common things that you use the 2.4 gigahertz frequency. So I would suggest sitting into that. The maverick per doesn't have that option. We have the aircraft battery, which is again, It's very technical. I personally don't go into any of these very often because I want to know the exact voltage of the second part or the lithium ion battery. It's not telling me not to worry too much about, but it also gives you the voltage, the temperature, all that good information. You can also control how high your critical and larger battery warnings out. So this is the section up the top here with that first dot and second dot wherever. We can also get back to that battery section quickly by hitting the battery. Sorry, if I find the 10% 30 thought I haven't changed since I started flowing and I seemed to send me well, so you can leave them there as well. You have eight and more advanced settings which show your voltage on main screen. I'm not sure why you would want to show the voltage of your battery is on the main spring, but doctrines there if you want to. Moving back again onto the gimbal settings, again, another section, I'm rarely if ever go into. The main thing you need to be aware of here is the difference between the NPV and following node. By default, it should be in the following modes. And that's what you want when you're taking videos and you'll painting from sod decide or whatever it is in view and following that view, the SPV mode is for when you're flying. In first-person view. If you're wearing the degenerate Goebbels, you might change them. But it's not a very common thing. That's full of settings and we can go back to the general settings there again, it will jump out of them. That's all the settings for the main application, the art and the other settings? Yes, there's even more settings in here. For the cameras are down here, we click on here. And again, this will be different depending on what training you have. This is another, it is the more professional version, so you have more professional control over it. This will be assigned to the scientist for PPAR, gamma professional. There'll be different to the standard phantom For that warrant have things like manual focus murderers be always autofocus, different tweaks like that. So that is another differentiating factor between the Pro and standard modeled. But looking at this, it's currently on automatic mode for the pictures. So this is in the pictures merge. You can change that into the video mode and you can tap on that. You'll probably go into the video settings. But for now we'll stick with the photo settings. You can either have it on automatic or you can change it to manual, where you can change the shutter speed. So we can make it lots law. And you can see it's starting to get darker or brought up. And you can cranky also october that you're warned. We'll cover the ISO and all those other things in a bit more detail later on in photography and videography section, box of pasta to say it's pretty much exactly the same as cameras and regular digital photography. You can set it back to automatic. We can move on to the video section now, one of the most important things is the video saws Phantom four priority. You've got four kinds, and I've chosen four K at 30 frames per second. You can also have the more cinematic for chi at 496 by 2160 bucks for the standard 16 by 94 K will be the 3840 by 2160. Moving back, you've got your video format, which is just mall or MP4. So which card do you want to use? Whether it's NTSC or PAO, What type of white balance you want to have? 16. Section 5 - 3 - Firmware Updates: Welcome to this final section on family. After going through all the app, I just wanted to cover one more final section on the firmware and the upgrading of the controller and the drawing and all that sort of stuff. There's a few different sections that you've got to watch out for. So one is obviously the remote control and the drawer in itself. They both have firmly versions on the application, on the phone or your tablet. Iphone obviously can be updated as well, just like any other application that you've got. One other final component is actually the battery in the drawing like Holden intelligent flat batteries for reason that I have very sophisticated controllers in them. And I require firmware updates sometimes as well. So in this section, I just wanted to go through a few tips and things to watch out for when you do the firmware update. So let's get into it. So the very first thing that you'll need to do is obviously connect your phone to the remote control and then connect to a remote control to the drawing and make sure that's on. So we'll go ahead and turn our controller. This will be on top and start the application automatically. When the application starts. And notice that it checks your drones firmware version and then also compares that to the server and make sure that they are compatible enough tonight. If it's not, it'll notify you of youth and weird to be updated. When we go into the actual application, you'll say he does need an update and we'll be covering that in a second before I go through. I just wanted to point out that these updates can take quite a while to actually do so. You can do these updates adding the field if you really want to, but I would probably recommend against it. These updates can take anywhere from five minutes if it's just for the battery all the way up to like half an hour if you're updating the drawing and all that sort of stuff, you have to excuse the whirring sound, That's the fan from here, but just ignore it. Now, when you're doing the updates adding the field, not only is this going to take a huge amount of time, you know, coffin, he has a fatal Walden's be sitting around twiddling their thumbs, doing nothing quality updates. But you'll also note that on the drawing itself, if you click on the firmware, you can see here it's about 200 megs, so you don't want to actually be downloading that on your mobile data connection API can help it. Do the firmware updated home. Make sure you're connected to WiFi or the quicker it will be easy when you're just sitting there waiting, standing in the middle of epoxy some way doing nothing. The other reason is that if you are out in the pocket, do you want to fly? It comes up saying there's a firmware update, not a problem. Just sit that goes live button. It'll allow you to go and fly, no problems. It'll tell you that there is a firmware update required. Bot is not actually required. You can still go and fly for that. That's a little tip. The other one is that when you go into the program itself and actually try and do an update, you will notice that, for example, if I try and doing now, it's going to refuse it, signed the batteries lower than 50%. So when you're doing these updates, you'll want to make sure that the battery and the drug itself is harder than 50%, but also at the remote controls batteries hot or 50%. When it does the Upgrade, it'll download the data from the Internet. Push that to the actual remote controller, which then will push that to the drawing itself. So both the drawing and the control, I need to have a decent amount of battery to sit there for maybe as I said, up to half an hour doing this upgrade Lawson, you want Is your drawing or the control and to just crash and die from battery running out halfway through a firmware upgrade. That is a very bad thing to happen and could potentially break. You'll draw an old controller or birth. That's one thing that you want to make sure. So I'll just click out of that now. The other final point is that if for some reason you've updated to a new piece of firmware and not really doing it for you. Maybe it's delete you with your phone or maybe it just has a bug for everyone in it and day job working on the fixed. But for the time being you were a fly and you prefer using the thermo version before, maybe a couple of versions before. You can actually hit this hamburger icon up in the corner here. So press at home. And after a few seconds, this window here will pop off, allowing you to downgrade two different versions of family. You just select which version you want to downgrade and then hit the stop updating bones. That's more for advanced users. As I said, if something goes wrong with the firmware that you've updated to and you want to go backwards, you can choose that option. And finally, once you have updated your drawings or you've gone through you selected, stopped updating, it's downloaded or restarted the drawing a few times, it's successfully applied the update. Don't stop there. Take the battery out of your drawing and make sure you put in all the other bacterias and start up the application. It will check the drawing, the control and the bacteria again, make sure that everything's on the right firmware and then tell you about it. So you might do the update, take the battery out, putting your spare battery, load up the app again and connect to it again, your mom's side, there's another firm or octet because the battery itself needs an update and you've only updated that other bacteria, you need to update all of your batteries. That's just another little gotchas that you might need to do. Try and do this. Before you go and fly. All the updates, recharge your batteries, then you're all set to go from next time that you want to fly. That's firmware updates for the app and the controller and the drone and all that sort of stuff. Next up we'll be talking about safety and legal requirements. So I'll talk to you then. 17. Section 6 - 1 - Personal Safety: Hey guys, and welcome to this section on safety. So you might think this is a bit of a boring section, but please do watch it from start to finish. It is very critical and not just for your own safety, the safety of other people, and also more importantly, the actual legalities of flying or drawing and whether or not you can get in trouble or perhaps even fall and maintain since it's always to begin with when looking at personal safety. That's in regard to safety between you and the Jordan impulsively, the people with the journey as well. So the very first thing to watch out, it's kind of obvious. Blades will be spinning really, really fast when it's actually up and flying and all that sort of stuff. When it's on the brand, it can be sitting there flying quite fast as well. The Phantom series blanks will be spending much faster and they are quite hard in your bile made out of plastic, but it's a very tough, durable plastic, which means it comes into contact with the lecture. You need hands. It will do a fair bit of damage. It will cut people broke the scheme, you stopped bleeding. Not the worst injuries and possibly have. But that's just the hits your hand. If it actually hits somewhere in your face, it can do a lot more damage. And I wouldn't even want to think about what would happen to the hit you or someone else in the. Whilst. These are fantastic things to earn. Some people consider them toys, some people consider them fancy flying cameras. You know, lots of people dark, really tight drawings very seriously and I really shouldn't because although you guys to have a lot of the time considered a toy, they fly, they have HIV spinning blades that can do a lot of damage, especially to people's faces. And as I said in section three, it's very easy to misjudge how far away you are from someone. It's easy to misjudge how large of a distance you required to stop yoga at a decent speed. And all these things can result in drawing, coming towards someone's face or your face and during the mode of damage to it. Now, another very common one, as you contain this video here, is when people from what I can tell anyway, simply lose control. So here you can say a person flying their drawing and chewing, losing control and smashing into someone's fights body. That's at a wedding, probably the worst time you could probably do it. I would hate to think what happened to that couple of bucks. It's just an example. Paper post those videos as, you know, funny things for people to laugh at. But when you actually sort of stop and think about it, if you had one of these drones flying at you at a decent speed in a heat, you started with ice. That's not something particularly wish on anyone, especially if it was one of those tes ones or even heavier with the Spark, it's not too much of a concern because it is much smaller. The blades are obviously a lot smaller as well. Can still do a bit of damage, break the skin, and you obviously wouldn't want to anyway in New York eyes. So that's just this area in talking about personal safety of you and upon the people who were lots of stuff. But there's actually even more concerns for safety and I'll go over that in the next chapter. So I'll chat to you then about it and we can discuss it on a more serious safety, things that can happen with drugs. 18. Section 6 - 2 - Mor