Transcripts
1. Introduction: Hey, it's Dave
from CG shortcuts. Welcome to our new Cinema
4D course, Black Widow. We've teamed up
with Moscow Lima, one of Brazil's top
Cinema 4D artists to bring you this advanced
course in character creation. In this course will
take you through the entire workflow
from start to finish for creating the black
widow spider in cinema 4D. And the good news
is you won't need any other software or plugins
to complete the course. You can even do it with
just the free cinema 4D demo available from
the maximum website. So follow along with us as we
take you through modelling, UV creation, sculpting, texturing, rigging,
and animation. We've also included
the final render ready project file to help
get you started. By the end of this
course, you'll have a better understanding
of Cinema 4D is character creation
tools and you'll know the exact workflow to take when creating your
own characters. And you won't just be limited
to creating spiders in the class project will
encourage you to take your new skills and
think outside the box. Maybe you could try
something like this instead. That's it for now. Let's hop into Cinema 4D and start creating the black widow.
2. Modeling the Body: Okay, so before we
start modelling, it's super important that we
start with good reference. If we want to ask
spine out to be as photo-realistic as possible, we're going to need good
quality photos as a guide. One good resource for
photos is iStockPhoto. This site has been
around forever, so the library is
absolutely massive now. So let's try and do a search for black widow spider or a red back spider as they're
known down in Australia. And you can see that returns a load of
high-resolution images. And best of all, we've got
a load of different angles, which will also be super-important
for our modelling. We also want to make
sure we grab images showing off some of
the finer details. Some of these close-up shots
will be super handy as well. Another good option is a good
old Google Image Search, although the image quality tends to be a little lower here. Either way is start
off by grabbing a load of quality
reference images. And you can even choose
a different species of spider if you like, or just follow along as we
create the Black Widow. I'll also include links to where I found my reference images in the resources PDF that you can download with the course. Okay, without further ado, let's hop into Cinema 4D and
start modelling this guy. And I'd like to start
modelling in the side view. So let's hit F5 on the keyboard to bring
up our different views. And I found a great reference
for the right view. So let's click here to switch to that view to bring our
reference image into here. Let's grab the mode menu here and head down to
the view settings. And under the back tab, which is shortfall background, Here's where we can import
our reference image. We're going to go with
our scientific drawing of a cross-section of
a generic spider. And you can check
the reference PDF for where to grab that. And obviously this isn't a black widow spider
specifically, but it does give
us a good idea of the anatomy of most
kinds of spiders. So you can probably also
use this if you plan on modelling a different
species of spider. And we're going to
use a combination of different modeling techniques
throughout the course. The first of which
will be box modelling. But rather than a box, I actually prefer
to use a cylinder. So let's bring one of those in. And I want that cylinder to be pointed along the
length of the body. So let's change the orientation
to a negative Z, like so. And I also want to decrease
the height segments to one and the rotation
segments to 12. And we're going to position
this and extrude this along the curvature
of our spiders body. But first we'll need to make
our cylinder editable by clicking this icon or
hitting C on the keyboard. And that converts our
cylinder into a mesh that we can extrude and deform. Then I want to remove the caps at the ends of the cylinder. So it will switch
to polygon mode and grab our rectangle
selection tool. And if we click and drag
along the edge here, we can hit Delete on
the keyboard to remove those faces and the
same at the other end. Now, if we switch back
to our perspective view, we're now left with
this hollow ring shaped piece of geometry. And now we can start
extruding from this. So back in our side view, we now want to
work in edge mode. And we want the move gizmo. Now if we hit U and
L on the keyboard, we can select an edge loop here. And we can start moving
these into place and extruding them along the
whole body of the spider. And so we can see
this a bit easier. Let's switch to
the shading mode. I think the easiest
way to do this is with a combination of
moving and scaling the edge loop so
that it starts to conform along the
shape of the body. So if we put that about there, we can then hold Control
and extrude this out to build out the
polygons of the model. And we'll scale
that edge loop as well and put it
into position here. Then it's just a
matter of repeating this process until we have the rough shape of our
spiders buddy extruded out. And you don't have to make
this perfect at this point. We'll do a lot more
fine tuning as we go. But this is definitely going to give us a good starting point. And you might find switching
this to x-ray mode might help out with lining these shapes up with our
reference image. And that's how I
like to work anyway. So let's go ahead and do
this for the full body. And feel free to skip
ahead on the timeline to the next chapter if you want
to move on to the next step. Okay, so now that that's done, let's take a look at our
top view where you can see our spider is
looking a bit skinny. She obviously hasn't eaten
too many flies today, so we need to fatten
them up a bit and get that shape right from
this perspective as well. So it will switch
to the top view. We need to bring in
another reference image. So same deal as before. We'll go to Mode View settings, then over to the back tab, and we'll bring
in another image. This time we're
looking for a nice bird's eye view of our spider. And I've actually created
an image we can use for this from a previous model. So let's use that as the
guide for our top view. And it's coming a tad too big, but we can scale
it down over here with the size controls. About there looks good, but it looks like it might
be a tad off center as well. So we'll also tweak the offset a little until it's right
on that center line. Alright, so now we can grab those edge loops by
double-clicking on them. And we just need to do the
same thing from our top view. Again, this doesn't have to
be perfect at this point. We'll find soon all these
shapes a little bit later on. And we'll just put this
about here for the face. Now let's take a look at
what we've got so far. We've got our basic spider
shape all sorted now. So if you plan to do a
different kind of split up, feel free to start tweaking
your mesh from this point. But if you want to
follow along with us and make the black widow, we'll just make a
few more tweaks to the shape of our spider now to make it a bit
more black widow ESC. So back in our side view, let's bring in our Black
Widow reference image. And we need to
scale this up a bit closer to the size
of our geometry, mainly to the shape
of the head here. So we'll just move
that up a bit too. With the exact same techniques
will make the shape can form more closely to the
Black Widow body shape. Again, it's just
a combination of moving and scaling
these edge loops. If you do run out of loops
and don't quite have enough in there to make
this shape nice and round. We just need to right-click
and choose Loop Path Cut. And we can add a loop like so. And clicking this
will also sent to that cut between those
loops either side. Then we can just
carry on positioning these to create a
smoother shape. I'll quickly go through and
match the new reference, but feel free to skip ahead
to the finished mesh. Okay, it doesn't look
like much at this point, but it does give
us the rough shape of our Black Widow cell. It's now throw this into
a subdivision surface. And we're now ready to
start modelling the legs. Let's save our file and I'll
see you in the next lesson.
3. Modeling the Legs: Okay, so now that we've got the rough shape of our black
widows body modeled out. It's time to create the legs. And unfortunately, I
couldn't get a spider to pose for me it
with straight legs. So we're going to have to work with these scientific diagrams. And we'll need to
simplify the legs in a way that will
leave us with good, clean geometry that we can
later use to rig and animate. So if we open the Cinema 4D, this is how I've
chosen to translate the shape into a
very simple mesh. Each of these joints
along the leg, I'm going to need a
little indented section in our straight leg, like so. And you can see I've
got one of these for every joint along
the spider leg. So let's use this very
simplified diagram as reference for
modelling the legs. So we'll open up our
spider project again, and we'll do the
same steps we did in the previous lesson to bring that image
into the front view. This time, I will just
never get to that guy. Okay. And we'll just move
this into place on the right side of
our spider body. They will grab our
mesh and subdivision surface and group those
objects together. And we'll hide that for now
while we model the legs. And we're going to box model this just as we
did with the body. Let's bring in another cylinder. We want this pointing along the direction of our reference. So we'll switch the
orientation to negative x. Then to see the
lines will hit up here and turn on the wireframe. We want to reduce the segments
on this cylinder as well. So I'll make the height
segments one and the rotation segments six will also hit C on the keyboard
to make this editable. And we'll remove those caps in the same way we did in
the previous video. And we'll delete those. We've now got a hollow
cylinder again, and we'll model this
in the same way. So let's grab the
edge tool and grab the end here and switch
to the front view. And we'll also switch
on x-ray mode. So now all we need to
do is line these edges up to where we have them
in the reference image. So we'll bring this over
here and scale that down. Then holding Control
will extrude this to here and scale
that down as well. Then control again to extrude
and just scale that up. And it's exactly
the same process as we did in the
previous lesson. So I'll just go ahead and do the whole length of the leg
with the same technique. Alright, and we'll sort
it out the other end. Something like that. So now the next step will
be modelling the tip of the spiders leg
where it actually has creepy little claws. And here's some extreme
close-ups of a spider's foot. And I have to say it's
a little weird looking. They've got some pretty
strange looking feet. So we're going to simplify
this for our model. We don't really plan on doing any close-up shots
of the feet anyway. So let's hop back into Cinema 4D and we'll take a
look down this end. Firstly, I want to
close off the cap here. So I'll right-click and use
the stitch and sew tool, which will allow me to click and drag across some geometry
to fill that hole. Then we'll switch
over to polygon mode. With these new faces selected, we'll hit I on the keyboard for the Extrusion tool and click and drag in another edge loop. Now we've been doing some very
low poly modeling so far. But this part at the end
is going to need to look fairly round and organic. So it might be a good
time to bring in another subdivision
surface to give us a better idea of what the
final smooth doubt mesh is going to look like. Alright, so now we can extrude some creepy little
claws out of this. So we'll right-click and make sure we've got
extrude selected. And down here in the options, I'll give the extrusion
one level of subdivision. If we extrude this out, that whole section comes out. But we actually want
to branch this out as two separate clause. Let's just undo and switch off Preserve groups and
try that again. And that gives us these
two separate parts. We might just extrude
this out a little bit further to about there. Okay? Now I want to select
just the tip area. So hit U plus Y on the keyboard a few times
to grow the selection. And what does scale
this part down into little pincers like so. And we'll grab the tips
and scale them down a tad more to make this a bit more
pointy, something like that. But it might also go a bit
freestyle here and just tweak these into a slightly
more interesting shape. So we use a combination of the gross selection
tool and scaling. And so we get
something a bit more clear like we might just scale these inner tab and maybe
just have one of these a little smaller than the
other, something like that. So just play around with the
shaping until you're happy. It's also important
to get a look at your model on every angle so you can make sure your
shapes are looking great in the 3D space. And switching between
subdivision and low poly from time-to-time
is also a good idea. So you can make sure
you don't get anything weird going on with your mesh. And you can also use
the shortcut key to toggle subdivision on or off. Okay, I think I'm
happy with that. So the next step will be
creating eight of these legs and getting them into position
around the spider's body. So with the legs selected, will hold Control
on the keyboard and drag out three copies
of this geometry. And while we're
at it, Let's also rename these so we don't
get confused later on. And we can hide
these ones for now. Let's head over to
the right side view. And we'll make leg number
one can form along the shape of the front leg
in our reference here. And the way we're going
to do that is with the Spline Pen tool, which we'll use to
draw out that shape, will add a spline point here
at the base of the leg and another one at the start of this joint and on this one as well. And basically we
just want to put a point on each of these joints. So another one here and here, and there, and there. And that's actually bends a
little here in the middle. So add one there as well. And finally here at
the tip of the leg. Alright, if we take a
look at the top view, will need to move those
points to where they need to be in the x-axis as well. So we'll grab the Move tool and start moving
these into place. And the joints at the same points we
did in the side view. So I'll just go
ahead and do that. Now if we take a look at
the perspective view, we've got a nice line
roughly along that leg. However, our reference images
aren't perfectly aligned. So now if we look back
at the side view, those points will be
a little bit off now. So I think we'll
rely more heavily on the side view for
this particular leg. Just tweak these points
again to match that. And again, we don't need to be too perfect with
it at this stage. We'll refine these a
bit more later on. Alright, Let's take one more
quick look at the top view. And I just want to
make this shape is natural as possible by I. So I might just get
rid of that bent bit here, something like that. So we get a nice arch in that leg k. So once we're
happy with that, we're going to use
a spline ramp, the format to make our geometry
wrap along that spine. So we'll bring that in and
make it a child of leg one because we need
to make eight of these or you better rename
our spline to match as well. So now we'll tell our spline
wrap to wrap leg one, that geometry along
the leg one spline. So we'll click this arrow
and choose that guy. There we go. And what's cool
about this setup is that we can easily
tweak the shape of the leg by moving the
underlying spline points. We might also just fat
in those legs up by increasing the size down here. So we'll go ahead now and do the same process for
the other three legs. So feel free to follow along or skip ahead to the next chapter. Alright, so now that we've
got our legs sorted out, let's group all of
these together by hitting Alt G on the keyboard. And we'll just
rename this as well. Then we can unhide the body. And all that's left
to do is mirror these legs across
to the other side. So it might just
hide that again. And over here, we can
use a symmetry node. And all we need to do
is drag our legs into there and that should
mirror them over like so. We'll save this now and I'll see you in the next
lesson where we start adding some extra
detail to our spider model.
4. Modeling Details: Okay, so before we start
detailing our spider, now is probably a
good time to set up some layers so we can easily hide and show different
parts of the model. Let's make two new layers
in our layer manager here. And we'll put the body
of the spider into this layer and the legs
in this green one. And now, rather than turning individual pieces on and
off in our object manager, we can just toggle the
solo button on each of these layers to isolate
whatever we need to work on. So let's solo this for now and we'll start detailing the body. First. We need to close the
hole we've got here where the spiders
face is going to go. So let's double-click on one of these edge lines to
select that loop. Then we'll right-click and
choose Close polygon hole. And we'll just take a look at
the tool options over here. And I want the polygon
type to be quads. And now if we click
on that hole, it will fill that in
and try and give us some nice quads
in that new mesh. But it's not exactly perfect. We've got a few triangles
at the sides there. Let's grab those and
we'll clean them up. If we hit M and N
on the keyboard, that will dissolve those edges. And then we can
right-click and use the line cut tool to
cut in some new edges. So let's cut from
this point to here, and the same on the other side. And we'll cut from here
across all of these, which still gives us a few
small triangles on the ends. But I think that should
be fine for now. I also want to
flatten this face out a tad so it's not
pointed down so much. We can just scale
that in a bit on the z axis until it's
a little bit flatter. That'll do for now. And I have a feeling
she might also have a hole in her butt as well. Let's grab that and hit S on
the keyboard to frame it up. And we'll just get a good
look at this from over here. We are going to need to seal
up that butt hole as well. So let's just tweak
the angle of it first, like we did with the face. And we'll use the closed polygon hole tool on this end as well. Just making sure quads
are still selected. And we'll have to do a
little extra work down here and add some
edges in manually. So again, we'll use the line
cut tool and cut a few quads into the mesh on both sides
to get rid of any triangles. Let's also dissolve some of these edges and just make a
few more cuts on this side. That's looking good for
now. Let's head back to the head and it will
start giving our spider some facial features. And we'll make sure we've
got the model selected. Then we'll switch
to polygon mode. And we're going to extrude out a couple of things
for our spider. So grab all of these
faces and just do our same extrusion trick
by grabbing the Move Tool, holding control and
dragging this out like so. We might just move that a
little bit further out. And it will scale these in the z axis as well to
flatten that up a bit. And we'll grab
these bottom faces. And I'll scale them down as
well to flatten those off. And you can see down here, That's faces and now nice
and flat on the y-axis. I will extrude these down. And then I want to
type them in a bit. So I'll hit M and W to switch
to the Extrude Inner tool. And we'll just click
and drag that inward. And now we want to
hold control again and extrude this part downward. And we'll do this twice. So we've got some extra
subdivision in there. Then we'll scale this bit out again and extrude it
downward a couple of times before finally tapering the tip of the fangs
in width at the end. We'll also extrude out a
smaller thing at the very tip, something like that, which doesn't look all that
impressive in low poly. So let's activate our
subdivision surface and see what that looks
like, smoothed out. Alright, it's definitely
getting there, but it's probably going
to be a bit easier to refine this with the
sculpting tools. And in this particular
version of Cinema 4D, we can find the sculpting
tools up here in the Mesh menu down under sculpt. But we're actually going
to need the sculpting brushes themselves. So for easy access, Let's grab this menu
here and tear it off. And they're all grayed out at the moment because
we need a mesh selected to use these.
So we'll grab that. And I think we'll start
refining the shape of our fangs with the smooth brush, which is a tad too big. So let's bring the
brush size down and will also lower the
strength and start sculpting. Might even try object mode or edge mode might work better. And we'll just sculpt this up so we get a shape we're happy with. And I don't like the
sharp edges up here. So we'll smooth that out of ten. And I think the triangles
we have left in here are going to
give us issues. Let's have a look
without smoothing on. Yep, that's not good. Let's grab those and hit m and n Again it to dissolve those edges and turn
those into quads. Okay, that's better. So I'll just carry on
smoothing this mesh out a bit. And I also like to use
the in-flight brush at a lower size to just inflate
parts of our mesh out of it. It's probably not a
bad idea to refer back to our reference
images for this, but I'm gonna go a
bit freestyle here. And also the controls
in Cinema 4D for sculpting are very
similar to ZBrush. Holding shift will also
smooth out the model and holding Control will invert the effects of whatever
brush we're using. K. I want the Fang
here to look a bit more like a pin
say kind of thing. So I'll give the grabbed
brush a try for this. And this works a lot like the
Move brush and zed brush. Let's just see if we can curl
this back this way a bit. We might just refer to our
side view reference image. And we'll just
tweak this until we get it in about the right spot. So let's spend a bit
of time refining this. Occasionally you might run
into issues like this though, where the geometry starts
to overlap itself, will need to see inside
the model to correct that. If we switch to the side
view and zoom out of ten, we can grab the Lasso
selection tool. And without model selected, we can grab all the
polygons we want to hide. So all of this stuff. We've missed a few here. Then up in the select menu, we'll choose, hide, selected. And now back in the
perspective view, we can get a good look
inside our model. We can see it's definitely
a bit messed up in here. So let's double-click the
edge loop and will grow the selection with you
and Y on the keyboard. And now we can
limit our sculpting to just what we've
got selected here. So we'll grab our brushes again and just start smoothing
this back into place. Now I'm trying to make
a bit of a gum here. So I want it to overhanging
the Fang base a little bit. So I might just go
back here and grab these points and just pull
them up inside a tad. And have a look at
that. Cool that reveals those things a bit more. Let's increase the subdivision so we can see what
that looks like. Smooth out. Not bad, but we'll definitely
refine this a bit more. And I want a bit
of an indentation just before the sharp
tip of the wing. So let's right-click
here and add a loop cut. And we'll just add a
couple of loops in here. Then if we grab a couple of these and scale them in a bit, gives us a bit of a leap
between those two parts. I might just bring this
into more of a points at the end by scaling
these faces down a bit. And maybe move it over here to create more of a hook shape. And if we start to run out of geometry and things that
stretching like this, we can always add
some more loops. And we'll just add
enough to prevent that stretching. Something like that. And it's definitely starting to look a bit more fang like. Okay, So let's bring back
the rest of our model and we'll hit up to the Select menu and we need to unhide all. And that's the front
side of our spine. I'll sort it out. So I guess it's time we
sorted out the backside. Obviously we can't leave
this bit flat like that. So let's refer back
to our reference. We're going to need to model
the posterior spinnerets, which is a nice way of saying these gross things on her bum. So with these faces
selected will hold control and scale that in a ten to
give us an extra edge loop. Then we'll extrude
that first spinneret from this section. We'll do that twice, so
we have an extra loop. And we'll scale this,
flatten that off. So it's flat on the y-axis. Then we'll scale that face down and try to round that to ten. Then we'll expand the
selection to grab all of those faces and just bring
it down a bit further. These are like little
chubby kind of things. So we also need to have
a hole in the end here. And obviously the end
is a little bit sharp. So let's go back to
our sculpting brushes and just smooth that out a bit. And it might also
be a good idea to turn on the subdivision surface so we can see what that final smooth mesh
is going to look like. We could also try
the in-flight brush again to give us a
bit more volume. So I'll just refine
this a bit with the sculpting tools and
maybe taper it off a bit. And we'll also keep an eye on what's going on inside the mesh. So pretty much the same
techniques we looked at before. Okay, then we need to do the exact same thing and create another one
of these here. So feel free to
watch this process or skip ahead to
the next chapter. Alright, now that
I've got two of these modelled on that side will save ourselves a bit of time and mirror this over
to the other side. So I need to double-click
on these edges that run down the
center of our model. And just make sure that
runs all the way around. And it looks like we've
got all the edges we need except down the
middle of the face here. So we'll hold shift and add those to the
selection as well. Now that we've
divided that in half, we'll go up here and
select, Fill selection. And if we click anywhere on
this left side of our model, it's selected that whole chunk. And now we can just delete
that side of the model. And all we need to do now
is mirror this side over. So back here, let's use symmetry again as we
did in the last lesson. And we're not seeing
that over here. So let's go back to
our layers for a second and turn off solo. And I'll add our new symmetry
to that layer as well. And now we can solve for that again. We can put
this into there. Now. Let's married over, but our fangs are intersecting. Now. Let's grab these two
faces and delete them. Then we'll switch to point
mode and we're going to 0 these out on the x-axis. Now, if we enable that,
we're almost there. We also need to
do this guy here. And this one as well. We might need to just
double-check this and make sure nothing
else is intersecting. And we'll move this into
the subdivision surface. And it's almost there, but our topology isn't quite flowing the way we
want it up here. Let's just make sure those
points are zeroed out as well. Okay, we'll smooth
that out again. And that's looking better. So let's check the
back-end as well. Same deal here will
also need to make sure these points are right on
that line of symmetry. K. I think the end of her but is also looking a bit
flat for my liking. So let's grab our loop cut tool again and we'll add
some extra subdivision. Alright, I'm still
not happy with the flow of the
geometry down here. So let's go back to point mode and grab our line Cut tool. And we'll add a cuts in here, which does give us some
triangles which is not ideal. But what if we
dissolve this guy? I think that should do for now. But let's also try and
tidy up this bit as well. And we'll try and
making some cuts in here to give ourselves some quads, something like that. And I will just
dissolve these as well. And let's see how that looks. Maybe a bit more work down here. We want to try and
clean up any triangles. So our smooth mesh
has a nice edge flow. And it's still a bit
dodgy down here. What if we cut along here? And something like this? We probably don't need
this extra subdivision in the middle here either. So let's grab these and
dissolve those as well. Alright, when we're
happy with our mesh, we can move on to
attaching the legs. But before we do attach
the legs to our model, I just want to go
into our symmetry here and enable Clamp
points on axis. So we don't accidentally move any of these center
points again. Then we can grab the mesh and make sure we're
in polygon mode. And we're going to
attach the eight legs onto these eight faces. So we'll select those
and we'll extrude them downward and just
scale them in a tad. Then we can head back
to our layers and turn off soloing to
bring those legs back. And we'll want to work
on that front leg first. So let's add that to
the same purple layer. We'll do the same too. It's spline. We won't need
that spline wrap anymore. So what we can do is
solo the main Michigan. And I will just grab the
leg and the spline and right-click and choose
Connect and delete, which will get rid
of that spline ramp. And we can also get rid
of the spline as well. Now let's see if we
can attach this guy. We might need to
scale the leg down a bit to fit onto the body. So let's just select these
polygons and scale them down. We'll grab the edge tool and
switch to our bottom view. And we can grab the
edge loop at the end here and just move
that into place. And I want to connect
it about there. I think I will just tweak the
leg a tad so it lines up. And we could even import our
bottom view reference image as well to help with the
placement of our legs. So just like we did before, Let's now grab the bottom view. So that's where
we're aiming for. So about here is where
we need to attach it. And let's actually go back
to the perspective view. And we'll grab these two
faces and delete them. Then we'll switch back to Edge mode and just
rotate this slightly. Then with both meshes selected, we'll hold shift and double-click
on both of these holes, then right-click
and choose stitch. And so then we need to try and do this so
that it doesn't twist. So maybe from here
to here, not quite. Let's undo that and
try here to here. And I think we can
work with that. Let's try it in the symmetry. It's not perfect, but we'll
tidy this up in just a sec. But you will notice
at this point the legs still isn't
connected yet. So we'll just need to grab both meshes and connect
and delete again. And to make sure
we don't have any weird points or imperfections, I also like to optimize
the mesh after connecting. And now if we enable
smoothing again, those legs have now
become part of the mesh. But we will just grab that
edge loop and tweak it at ten. And I want this join to
be a little bit smoother. So we'll just finesse this a bit and maybe add
another edge loop. Then from this
point, it's probably easier to just use our
sculpting brushes again. I'll just use a combination of the smooth brush and the in-flight brush to make the leg look a little
bit more natural. Until we get something
that looks like this, where all that geometry
is flowing nicely. And now it's just
a matter of doing the same thing for
the other three legs. So we'll go ahead and do that now if you want to follow along, otherwise, skip ahead
to the next section. Okay, so now that we've got the main body
shapes sorted out, we'll just add a few more
of the smaller details before we move on
to creating UVs. We don't need those
layers we set up before now that we've combined
everything into a single mesh. So let's delete those and just remove what's left
on that other layer. Will also go to our symmetry
and enable delete polygons. On access, we can start making some extrusions
on her belly. So let's switch to polygon mode. And we'll grab these faces. And we might just disabled
smoothing while we do this to make sure our low poly
mesh is looking good. And we'll extrude these end
to make another edge loop. And we'll tidy up the triangles with our line cut tool again. Let's cut across here and here. Then we'll grab the edge
along here and dissolve that. And now we can extrude
this section down like so. And we'll just scale this down
until it's nice and flat. And we'll extrude again
to add another edge loop. Then we'll do the same up here. And again with the line cut tool and tidy the triangles
up like we did before. And again, we'll extrude
and flatten that up with an extra edge loop. Let's see what that
looks like. Smooth down. And I think that's fine for now. So let's move on down here. And I'm going to use the
exact same technique. So skip ahead if you need to. And this is actually going
to be a bit of a pouch. So we're going to tidy
this up the same way. But this time I'll extrude inward to create a little hole. And what to scale that
down a tad on the inside. We don't get a whole
in the mesh here. We just need to make
sure these points are right on that symmetry line, which is of course
on the x-axis. So let's 0 then out. And so this matches our
reference a bit closer. Let's use our sculpting brushes
to smooth this out. Okay? Now back in our reference, There's some more of these
kinds of details below there. Let's do the same thing
again to create those. The sculpting brushes will
come in handy again here. Alright. I'm just going to have a look at another
reference image I've got here. And we'll just do some
light sculpting to get this looking a bit more like
those shapes in the image. Now that I look at
this reference, I can see our legs aren't
quite right either. So let's dissolve these joints and try to make it look
a bit more like this. So I'll add some loops in here and scale it into
form that first joint. Then we'll just make
sure all of our legs can form a bit more to
this reference photo. And I'll just tweak the
joint on this leg as well. And here too. I think these all needs to
be further down the legs. Okay. And I think this area could
use some work as well. So another tool I like to
use is the soft selection. And with Edge mode selected, we can enable Soft
Selection in any of our transform modes. We just need to come
over to the options and enable it in the
soft selection tab. Now if we grab an edge, we get a selection
with a falloff. And we can adjust that fall off with the radius
slider down here. And let's just change
views for a second. And we can use this a bit like the grabbed brush if we
switch to the Move tool. And let's just tweak
these edges and we can subtly nudge
them into place. And if we want a
greater influence, we can just increase this again. Let me just get this into place and we'll keep an
eye on how that looks smooth out as well. So I think that looks a bit
closer to the reference. So I'll just make a
few more adjustments. And it looks like we've
missed a few details on the abdomen as well. So I'll just use those
same techniques we've already looked at
to add that in. And I might just make
a few more adjustments to these bits as well. Kay? This area could also
use a bit more work. Let's surface looks a bit flat. I think it should
create a bit of a lip around these
bits at the tip. So let's add another edge loop here with a few subdivisions. Then I'll go back to
our grabbed brush and pull this up and to create a little flap around these. And I'll refine this back in low poly mode k. Let's maybe try bringing
these in as well. I'll just tweak this
for a while until it looks a bit more
like the reference. And I just want to make
sure that topology stays nice and even as well. And that'll be afraid to add in more subdivisions
if you need to. K, and it's definitely starting to look
even creepier now, but I think it is a bit
closer to the reference cell. Let's just continue
making minor tweaks with the sculpting brushes. And we'll just
smooth out any areas that are looking
a bit too blocky. And I think the legs look
in a bit bent there. So we'll straighten
that out as well. Okay, so let's make that abdomen match the
reference a bit closer as well. And I'll use the
soft selection again and make this conform to
that shape a bit closer. Alright, and we're
almost there now. I just want to add some
last little features on our spiders face. So let's take a look at
another reference image. And we'll have a go at modelling those feelers on her face. And again, we'll do that same modelling
method from a cylinder. And let's put it the
other way and lower the segments and just
get that into place. Then we'll hit C on the
keyboard to make that editable and remove both
of those polygon caps. We're going to do the same
combination of extruding and placing these segments along
the shape of l reference. And this lesson is
already quite long. So I'll speed up
this process a bit. I think you've got the gist of this kind of modeling by now. Okay, so now that
we've got that, let's close this hole and tidy up the geometry
at the end again. Then we'll need to position and scale this to fit
onto our model. And these needs to go on
the outside of the fangs. Then in order to attach these, we might need to
create another loop. So we've got a quad that
we can attach it to. So let's go from these guys. We'll delete those. Then we'll switch to our Edge
mode and grab both holes. And we'll grab the
stitch and sew tool again to join
these together. Then we'll just tweak
this so that they flow into each other a
bit more naturally. We need to combine these
into a single mesh. So we'll grab both of them
and connect and delete. And to make sure we don't get
any weird points leftover, Let's optimize the mesh as well. And we'll turn symmetry
back on again. That's looking good. And we might just do
some more fine tuning with the sculpting
brushes as well. Right? Now we also
want to make sure the joints on here match
the reference as well. And these can be a bit
puffier than that. So I'm just gonna go
ahead and make sure all the joints on the
legs are looking right. And I'll pump up
our spider a bit to accentuate the
shapes of the body. Then we'll finish off the
model by adding in some eyes. So skip ahead to
that if you like. We also need to add
a few more details from our reference
onto the abdomen here. Let's add in a few
more subdivisions. And there's also a few
circular details back here. So let's grab these points and we'll right-click
and choose Bevel. Then we'll just bevel out
some extra rings here. If we switch to
polygon mode and grab, both of those will
extrude enough this time and apply that to make these round indentations.
Okay, cool. Now we can use the
same techniques to give our spider eyes. So let's zoom into
the face here. And we'll lower the
subdivision level. Then we'll grab the
polygon tool again and grab a polygon
to add our first i. Let's right-click and grab extrude enter again,
and apply that. Then we can tweak those settings to give us the right shape. And as a spider, she's going to have
eight eyes or lab. So we'll do the
same over here and apply and two more
up here as well. Then we'll grab the
center of all of these and hit Delete to cut holes
out for all the eyeballs. And we'll grab those edges and extrude them back to give
it a bit of depth as well. Then we'll just tweak the
size of these so that they match our
reference a bit closer. And all the I's needs to
be a fairly similar size. So I'll just go ahead
and adjust these. Okay. I think that's
looking pretty good. Let's increase the
subdivisions again. And it might just use the
soft selection again to position the eye sockets a
bit closer to the reference. And it's also a good idea to switch back to low
poly mode every now and again to
make sure the mesh isn't doing anything too weird. And we might just adjust
these attached as well. Okay, so now we can add a
sphere to be our first eyeball. What does get this into place? And scale it down about
there it looks right? Then we'll hold control and
duplicate this down here. And I'll do the same for
the other three I's, and I'll just speed the
video up a bit for that. Okay, and now we can grab all of those eyeballs and group them by hitting Alt G
on the keyboard. Then I'll just create a
simple white material and apply that to the group. And we'll make that a
child of our main mesh. And I'm fairly happy with that. But let's just tweak
the mesh so it conforms to those eyeballs
a little bit more. And I think we can say we're about done with
the modelling now. So let's save it there. And in the next lesson, we'll take a look at
UVs and we'll start sculpting in some of
that finer detail.
5. UVs and Scultping: Okay, so before we start sculpting and
sorting out our UVs, I just wanted to
introduce you to a handy free app
that you can use to keep an eye on your
reference images. It's called quadro,
and I'll leave a link to where you can
download that below this video. And it also works for
both Windows and Mac. And that's going to
give you this option down here and allow you to place your reference images over any window on your
computer, like so. We'll add another one here. And we can scale and reposition
these however we like. So if we switch back to Cinema 4D and put these
over to the side, we can now go about
our sculpting and have access to those reference
images at all times. And because we can also
zoom right into this, It's super handy for sculpting
in those finer details. One more thing I want to mention before we start sculpting is the importance of
having good topology. As you can see here, I've got two cylinders, one with a low level
of segments or subdivisions and
uneven topology, and the other with more subdivisions and
much more even topology. If we now convert
both of these into editable objects and switch
to our sculpting layout. Let's rename these and test our sculpting
brushes on both of them. Let's hide this
guy for a second. And we'll subdivide this
mesh a few times so we can sculpt some
fine detail on here. And you'll see straight
away that we're running into the first problem. That mesh is losing its
shape at the top and bottom. And if we subdivide
this a few more times and try to sculpt on here with that very low and
uneven underlying topology. Any details we sculpt on here
are going to be distorted. And they actually stretched
downward across that surface. So it's going to be
impossible to get some decent detail
into this mesh. But if we take a look at our other cylinder and
do the same thing, sculpting on here is going to work a lot better
because there's enough even underlying
geometry to capture that detail without any
distortion or stretching. So let's take one last
quick look at our model and make sure our geometry
is ready to sculpt. And straight away,
I can see that the polygons on our spiders
legs are a little bit stretched and we'll need to
subdivide these so we can have a much more even and
more square topology. So let's right-click here and grab our loop cut tool again. We can use this
controller here to add or subtract
extra subdivisions. So that's even that part out. Let's do the same here and
add another subdivision. Then we'll check the
rest of the leg. And we'll need to do
this a few more times. I think. I'll just go through each
segment and subdivide those. When we've got that leg done, I'll go through and do the
same for the other legs. So feel free to follow
along or skip ahead. K. So the topology
on a model is now much more even and
all those polygons are nice and square. So I think we're ready
to create some UVs. So let's disable our
subdivision surface for now. And you can see our low
res topology is all nice. And even now, then
we can find our eyes into a group by hitting
Alt N G on the keyboard. And we'll rename this to eyes to keep this
nice and organized. Then we'll hide those for now. And if we take a look
around the front, we should also probably
close those holes we cut in the mesh
for the eye sockets. We don't run into any
problems down the line. So let's turn off
symmetry for a second. And we'll grab the
closed polygon hole tool again and just
close all of those. Then we'll enable symmetry
again and hit C on the keyboard to make
this editable and merger the symmetry down
into a single mesh. And we'll take that out of
there and delete the leftover. Now, I've just noticed this area looks a
little bit empty, and I think we might have missed modelling the detail in here. So let's grab those faces and we're just going
to extrude them out as well like we did before to create another one of those
shapes along the belly. Like so. We'll put that mesh back into
the subdivision surface. And that's looking a
bit more interesting. So now we can finally
start cutting this mesh up and creating our UV islands. So let's start by removing the UVW tag from the model that's been
automatically generated. So delete that. And without mesh selected. Let's grab our Edge tool and we'll select the
edges we want to use, as seems in our UVs. And as this is an
intermediate course, I won't go into the science
buying UVs and I'll presume you already
know what they are and why they're important. So let's just figure out the
best way to divide this up. I want to UV the legs
separately from the body. So let's start
selecting around those. And we'll select the edges along the belly and around
the legs and like so. And maybe this will be
easier with sub-division on. Then we'll cut around
the legs back here. And we want to cut these
away from the body. So we'll go around
the base of each leg, like so. And along here. Then so each leg is separate. Let's also cut between each one. So I've got four
separate islands, one for each leg. Then we'll cut along the belly
here up around the things. We also need to start thinking where we want our seams to go. Usually in an area that
won't be as visible, which usually means
underneath the modal. I think along here will be a good place for the
same on this thing. And actually a good tool
to use for this is up here under select. The path. Selection tool can
speed this up a bit. And it just allows
us to draw along this same nice and quick. So I will take it all the
way along to the tip. And so we don't get any
pinching when we unfold this, Let's add another cut here so that can unfold a
little bit easier. We can always refine this
later if we need to. It can be a little
bit trial and error. Sometimes we'll carry
on cutting away the body and make another same right
along the center here. And we may need to cut this little patch bit
off separately as well. We'll cut a siem
into here as well. We've got another
time saver up here, the mirror selection tool, which we can customize. And I want to mirror
the cuts we've made so far to the opposite side, which we can do by
setting this to world. And along the y-axis
should be fine. And now those cuts are reflected to either
side of the model, which is very handy. So let's add some
seams to the legs now. So keeping with the
flow of our other cuts, let's put a seam in here, which is nice and quick to do with the path selection tool. Then we'll add another
one here for this leg. And up here and here. Then we'll just
check the tips of the legs and make sure we finish those seams so they
can unwrap nice and cleanly. Cut along here to the tip. And same on the other side. And we'll need to do the same on each leg and just finish
the seams on each one. Okay. So now that
we've sorted out the seams on our legs
over on the right side, we can use our mirror
selection tool again to mirror those
over to the left. Okay, so let's move on to the feelers and we'll
cut around that. And again, we'll need
to make a seam along the bottom so we can
unwrap this as well. So with past selection on again, Let's do that like so. And will mirror that
across as well. Then we'll finish the
same along the back here. And we'll probably unwrap
her abdomen separately. We'll cut that away from the
rest of the body as well. And that should unfold nicely. I think. The whole back here is a little
more complicated though. We might need to
cut that away as well and unwrap it separately. So let's grab the ring
selection and cut around that. Then we'll cut each of these off separately as well with
the ring selection. And back to line selection
will give those some seams as well and mirror those over k. So that should be enough
to fully unwrap this now. But it's probably a good
idea to save this selection in case we need to come
back and tweak it later. Let's go back to the Select
menu and we'll set selection, which adds this edge
selection tag to our model. And now we can UV
unwrap L model. So let's switch to the
UV edit layout up here, and back to object mode. With our spider selected. Let's click on the options
for set uv from projection. With this set to frontal,
let's hit, okay. And now we can switch
back to Edge mode. And with the edges
we want to cut along selected like this. We can now UV unwrap this, which gives us our
flattened out UV islands. So now it's just a
matter of checking these and making sure
nothing is overlapping. And I can see right away this area here has
some overlapping. I think those are the things we might need to make a
few more cuts in there. So these can fold
out a bit more. If we zoom in here, we might need to
cut these off here. So let's do that. We'll UV unwrap again. And we'll try and find
that same Ireland again, which is up here. And you can see we
don't have that overlap anymore because that
thing has been cut off. Now, let's mirror that across and we'll take a
look at the other thing. We'll unwrap again. And that's gotten rid
of any overlapping. Now, I'll just have a quick look at the
other pieces here, which I think should
be fine for now. The only other
concern at this point is that there's not
too much stretching going on because this area here, which is that abdomen again, bulges out quite a bit. I'd say we'll probably get some stretching in
the texture map. So the best way to
check that really is to come down here and
create a new material. And we'll apply
that to our model. And if we click into there, we can disable the reflectance so that we only have the
color channel visible. And in here, we can go to surfaces and add a
checkerboard pattern. Now, looking at that pattern, we can see that each
black and white square, it looks pretty
evenly distributed across most of the model, except for the abdomen, where the patterns looking at
larger and more stretched. And if we delete this material, we can also check this
in the UV editor and textures where we can enable
the built-in UV map texture. And again, you can see how that stretching, Let's empty that. Because we will eventually
be exporting a four K-map. I think the best thing to do
is import a four K map so we know exactly how
that stretching is going to impact
our final texture. So I've included a fork, a checkerboard map
that you can download. So just grab that. And indeed that for K map
is going to be stretched. So we'll have trouble with our texture maps and
without sculpting. So it's definitely
a good idea to add a few more cuts into this
to even out the UVs. Okay, Let's empty
that out again for now and switch
back to Edge mode. Let's separate that top
part of the abdomen from the bottom and
unwrap them separately. So we'll make another same
along here and across here. And we'll continue this down to the bottom and
mirror that across. Then we need to
unwrap this again. And now if we show that for
k checkerboard map again, you can see that pattern
is a lot more even across the surface
of that abdomen now. And that should give us a
better result when we do our final sculpting
and texturing. Alright, Let's empty
that out again. Before we move on to sculpting, let's just tidy up the
layout of our UV islands. If we hold shift and double-click
on the UV map tag here, we can open that in a new
window and fit to screen. So we've got a bit
more space to do this. Let's make a new texture
and have it set up like this at four K with a black
background and hit, Okay. Then we can move these around by hitting U and F on the keyboard, which allows us to
select the UV islands. Then hitting E will switch to the move mode and we can
place them aware we want. Let's just tidy these up a bit. And we can use R to
rotate them as well. And I'll just go ahead
and sort these out a bit. And will also scale up some of the smaller pieces as
well with the scale tool, which is T on the keyboard, K. And another handy tool we can use to straighten these islands out is the line UV
islands tool here, which can make things
a little bit tidier. Alright, so now that
we've got our UV sorted, we can finish up
the sculpting and add a bit more
detail to the model. But one thing I have
just noticed is that I forgot to close the little
holes at the end of these, which could give
us some problems when we do our sculpting. So let's just switch
to edge mode. And we'll close
those polygon holes. And just make sure this
is set to quadrangles. And we'll just close those up. So let's get this
ready for sculpting. Now. Let's grab our split up. And I want to sculpt this with one subdivision level
applied already, which we can get from our
subdivision surface here. So let's hit C on the
keyboard to turn this into a single editable mesh. And now we can load in
our reference images. So I'll open up my
quadrant menu down here, and we'll add some local images. And I want some
reference imagery of the top and bottom
of our spider. So let's grab this
one for the top. And so we can keep
an eye on this wall. We sculpt, let's right-click
and have that always on top. And now we can move
around in here and I'll reference will
stay on screen. And we can also move
this wherever we want and even scale it
down if we need to. So let's grab the other
reference we brought in earlier and move that here. And we'll also keep that on top. And we'll zoom in a tad so
we can see that detail. Then we can switch
over to sculpt mode. And we'll just make it
a bit more room here. And now we can start
to sub-divide. Our model for sculpting. Will subdivide this twice. Let's also turn on
the lines so we can see how much geometry
we've got to work with. And I think we'll
need to get a bit more detailed with this. Let's subdivide one more time. Then we'll hide
those lines again. And we'll start sculpting
the top part of her head. And we're going to use
the mask tool here, which is pretty handy
for this kind of detail. Let's just break this
menu off for easy access. Before we start sculpting, Let's also make a
new layer so we can come back to our base mesh
if we mess anything up. And we can even rename these layers so we
don't get confused. And just to show
you how this works, if we now try and sculpt on
this layer and we'll just use the pool brush and make the brush a
little bit smaller. If we sculpt here, we can simply remove that by disabling the layer over here. So we're able to return to that original mesh
if we need to. Okay, let's undo that. Another tool we'll
use quite a bit is the symmetry down here
in the brush settings, we just need to pick the axis. We want the symmetry
to be applied to, which in our case is
going to be the x-axis. And that's going
to let a sculpt on both sides of the model
at the same time, which is going to save
us a load of time. We'll undo that. And we can also use symmetry
with our mask tool. So let's set that to
the x-axis as well. While we're at it.
Let's set this up in the in-flight
brush as well. Okay, so let's do some masking. And in the settings we can
reduce the size of the brush. And we're going to draw
an X-shaped mask where the indented areas are
in our reference image. And the idea is then to inflate the area
outside the mosque. So we'll reduce the brush size and just draw this
in fairly roughly. Let's mosque below here
to create a bit of a lip and a little bit smaller. We'll mosque in here as well. And back here. And we're trying to
create this shape. So we might have gone a
bit thick with our mask. But if we hold control, we can subtract from the mask
and make it a bit thinner. And we'll cut off a
bit here as well. Then if we hold shift, we can also smooth out the mask so the edges
aren't so sharp. So let's smooth out
all those edges. And now we can start inflating the areas outside
the mask off area. And we'll just make
sure symmetries on. And we'll also bring
down the pressure, which is the intensity of the
brush and the brush size. And now we can start
inflating these bits. I'm just doing this all
by i just trying to match the reference as close as I can until we get those
rough shapes in there. And we'll bring the
sides add as well. And just pull this out into a little lip,
something like that. And you can see symmetry
is working nicely. Then we can invert the mask. And we're going to push this
pot back into the model. So maybe we'll use the
pool brush for this, a bit lower pressure and size. And if we hold control, we can invert the
effect of this brush, which will push
rather than pull. And again, we'll just try
and match that reference. And if things start
to look a bit bumpy, we can also use the smooth brush and smooth things out a bit. Okay, so just using
these same tools, I'll go ahead and
sculpt this detail in. So again, feel free to
follow along or skip ahead. I think I'm finally
happy with that. Now, let's close
this reference image and we'll start working
on our spiders legs. So let's just frame up
on one of those joints. Then we can clear
that mask out now, because we've done all of
that sculpting on a layer, we can use the strength slider to turn that on and
off if we need to. But we're just decrease
the intensity. And we'll do the
same for the legs. Let's make another
layer for those. And we'll use the
mask tool again. And I want to mask off the front two legs so we can isolate them and sculpt on them without the rest of the model
getting in the way. So we'll adjust the brush size and start painting
along this leg, which because we have
symmetry enabled, is also going to mask
that other front leg. And we'll just go all
the way to the end here. And holding control,
we can remove any areas we've
accidentally selected. Alright, with that selected, let's hit Invert Mask. And I'll just smooth out
that selection a bit. Then tied everything
else but the legs. Let's hit Hide, masked. And this will prevent
us from sculpting on any other parts of the
model accidentally. So let's grab the in-flight
brush with symmetry enabled and add some of these folds and wrinkles around the
joints of the leg. And it's just going
to be a matter of pulling these edges out a bit and blending that
back into those forms. And then just using the
smooth brush or holding Shift while you paint to
smooth out that transition. And it's really just
trying to match our reference as
close as we can. And don't be afraid to reposition this
whenever you need to. I can say this bit needs a
bit of a groove in there. So let's hold control and invert the inflation
to create that tip. If you find that
grid distracting, we can go over to the
Scene menu here under the view settings and disable
or adjust legacy mode. Say you've got less grid
subdivision if you need it. So we'll go ahead and sculpt the larger forms of these legs. So again, follow along or
skip ahead to the next part. Alright, so we're getting there. Let's show that
masked area again. One thing you might wanna do from time to time while you're sculpting is take a look at your model under a light side. Let's just bring one in and
move it above our spider. And we'll make sure
shadows are enabled in our viewport and also
in the light itself. And now we can just move this
around and see how light and shadow play with the
different forms of our model. And this should give you
a pretty good idea of what's working and which parts of the model need a
bit of redefining k? Let's switch that off and
come back to our sculpting. I think this bit here, it
looks a little bit weird. So he might just
reposition some of this. And a good tool for
making larger changes to our Skulpt is with
the grabbed tool, which is similar to the
Move tool in ZBrush. If you've ever used that
with the symmetry enabled. And with a fairly
large brush size, we can click and drag on large areas of our
model and really easily adjust those larger forms without destroying the Sculpt. Let's just give this
a bit more space. And maybe bunch this up a
little bit more as well. And we can even decrease
the size of this brush and use it on the
smaller areas of detail. So I'll just go
ahead and find Shane some of these shapes
with the grabbed brush. I think I'm happy with that. So let's go ahead and use the same techniques on
the remaining legs. And I'll also add each part two when you're
sculpting layout, just in case we
mess anything up. And that's our
legs down for now. And you can see, I've got
those on another layer here. So now it's time to
move on to the body. So let's create another
sculpting layer. We might start on her face. So let's do our masking trick again and select
just what we need. Then we'll invert the
mask and hide, masked. And again, using
our inflate brush, let's embed those
eye sockets a bit better and add a
bit more detail. Again, follow along with
me or skip ahead to the next section where
we'll work on her belly. Okay. Let's adjust our reference here and take a look at
our spiders belly. I'll start with the
grabbed tool to get those broad shapes
sorted out first. And I'll use the pool tool to do a little
sculpting down here. And again, this will be a bit of a
time-consuming process. So follow along or skip ahead
to the abdomen section. I came, let's do our masking trick on
the abdomen this time. And we'll isolate that as well. Let's take a look at
our reference again. And we'll start down here
with the grab brush. And I just want to bring these in a bit closer to each other. Then we'll add in some
of these wrinkles. And yet again, feel free to
follow along or skip ahead. Okay, So looking at our model now under some
different lighting, I think I'm happy with this
sculpting we've done so far. So now we're ready to add the final details before
finishing this off. At this point,
we've been working with two subdivision levels, but to capture the
finer details will need a bit more geometry
to work with here. So let's subdivide
this one more time. And we'll add another layer
in here for our details, Scott and rename that. And you can see
this layer is set to subdivision level three. So let's add some details. We'll grab the pool brush. Again, make sure
symmetry is enabled. And for the finer detail, Let's also drop the size and
pressure down on our brush. And I'll also use the in-flight brush quite a bit for this. So let's do the
same for that guy. Then it's just a
matter of going over the entire model in adding
detail where necessary. And a lot of this is going to be going over the forms we've already created or
accentuating the shapes. And I will spend quite
a bit of time on this. So again, follow
along if you like, or skip ahead to where we'll add the final level of detail. And I'll show you how to
add some extra texture with the stamp tool. Okay, so now that our spine is looking a bit more detailed, it's time to add one more
level of subdivision so we can add a layer of
ultra fine detail. Again, this is going to be
on one last sculpting lamp. So let's add one of those. And we'll use our pool tool, which over in the stamp tab, we can use an image to drive
the shape of our brush. Let's click here and grab
one from our hard drive. This one here should do. And if we scroll down here, we'll see a little
preview of how our stamp brush
stroke will look. And now if we zoom
into our spiders body, we can stamp that texture on. And depending on the pressure, you can make it more
or less subtle. I'm just going to
use this to break up those surfaces and make them a little less perfect looking. And I don't wanna go too
overboard with this, just a very subtle layer of
fine detail over our model. So we'll go ahead
with that yourself or follow along with what I do. Okay, so now that the
final details around them, I often find that I need to make this layer even more subtle. And I think in this case, or reduce the amount
of final detail by lowering the strength
of that scope layer. And now that detail is
a lot less visible, but a lot more realistic. I think. We might also want to
check the contribution of the other layers as well
before we finish this up. But to access those
other layers, we will need to step down the subdivision level to where
that layout was created, where currently at subdivision
level for at the moment. So let's step back to three. And we can toggle that on and off to see the contribution. And I think these are fine. So let's try the
next subdivision, lamb, which still has
a mask applied to it. So let's clear that out and
see what layer that is. I think the sculpting
on the abdomen is fine. So let's have a quick look
through these other layers, which I think are
all looking good. But maybe those front
legs are looking at bit intense compared to
the rest of the model. So let's just reduce that
layout slightly as well. Okay, Let's take one last
look under the lights. Let's just add a floor so
we can get a good look at the shadows and enable shadows
in the viewport as well. Alright, I'm happy with that. So let's start
exporting our maps. So let's delete the floor
and hide the lights. And with our spider selected, let's bake sculpt objects. Will set a directory
for our maps. And we'll use P and G for the format we want to
create for K maps. So we can capture
all of that detail. And we'll head over
to options where we can choose the type of
map we want to export. We'll choose a normal map first. And we want to
check as well over in the Settings tab that are normal map is using
the tangent space method. Then we can hit Preview. And it might be a bit
small on your screen, but I have noticed a slight
problem with our UVs. Let's take a quick
look at those just in case you run into
the same problem. If you remember when
we started sculpting, I needed to close the holes on the abdomen here in order
to start sculpting. But doing that has
broken our UVs, as you can see here. But you can always go
back and fix your UVs at anytime before you
export your maps. So I'll quickly show
you how to do that. Now, let's grab those UV islands
and hit UV unwrap again. And what a scale them
back into place. And if we zoom in here, you can see that this area
isn't as clean as it could be. So let's fix those UVs
that are poking out there. If we switch to edge
mode and UV edges, we can grab that dodgy edge and we'll find where it's
located on our model. Then with that unnecessary
edge selected, we'll hit UV weld, which will weld those
together like so, and get rid of that bit
that was sticking out. So things are a
little bit cleaner. Then I'll just go ahead and
do the same on all of those. And we'll try to
export our maps again. Okay, now that's fixed. Let's try baking are
sculpt objects again. Let's head over to
the Options tab and will enable displacement, normal and ambient
occlusion maps. And over in settings. Just make sure your
settings match mine. And I might also increase the super sampling on the
ambient occlusion map. So it's a little bit cleaner. And now we can hit bake, to bake these maps out. K. After the maps have
been baked out, Cinema 4D creates and applies a new material to our modal, which you can find down here. And you can see that's linked up all of those maps automatically. And if we click Locate
image on one of those, we can find them
on our computer. And you'll see if
we open one of them like the normal
map, for example. All of that sculpting detail has now been captured in these maps. And here's the displacement map and the ambient occlusion map. And we can use these maps
to generate a higher level of detail on lower
resolution models. So we can animate a much
lighter version of our model. So if we click into
our sculpting tag here and on the show
layer manager button, we can set this to our
lowest subdivision level, which you can see has a lot less geometry there
now sculpted model. And if we right-click and
choose current state to object, will get a separate low-res
version of our model. And we can delete this old one, will reapply our material
and I'll catch you in the next lesson where we'll
start texturing our spider.
6. Texturing: So we're going to be using
body paint to texture. I'll splatter up, which thankfully is included
in cinema 4D, because we'll be painting
right here in the Viewport. I'd recommend using a
PBR material as it's going to give us
the best level of detail directly in the viewport. So let's bring one of those in. And we need to bring in
the texture maps from the material generated
in the last lesson. So let's go to the normal
channel and we'll copy this texture and beckon
our new PBS material. We'll paste that into the
same channel, like so. Then we can get rid of these for now and apply that to our model. Before we start painting, I just want to make sure that
that normal map is looking right on our new
low-resolution model. And on closer inspection, you can see we do have
some weird edges going on down here on the
sides of our spider. And I'm guessing this
will be corrected inside our subdivision surface,
which definitely helps. But I do like to
keep our low res mesh looking as
smooth as possible. So we'll go in there and tidy
that up in just a second. But first, I just
want to quickly set up our other channels. Let's enable the reflectance
channel and disabled the direct diffuse
in here so we can control the color over
in the color channel. Instead. We'll take a quick look at
this under different lights. And we'll definitely
need to fix this. But we're also not seeing as much detail as we showed
from our normal map. So let's go back to our
material and under viewport, we can change the texture
preview size to no scaling. And now we can see
that detail at its maximum resolution
in the viewport. Let's fix this crease here
and we can start painting. Let's grab our sculpting brushes again and select down model. And what is smooth this
out a bit like so. And we get rid of the floor now. We'll switch to our body
paint layout over here. Then we'll turn
off that light and get rid of those harsh shadows, which will make painting
this a little bit easier. And now we can fire up our
body paint setup wizard. And we want to
apply this only to the low-risk spider model and the subdivision surface and into the PBR material like so. Then we'll hit Next. And we've already
set up our uv maps. So let's uncheck, recalculate
UV and go Next again. Let's set our resolution
to four k by making the minimum and maximum
size 4096 pixels. And make sure our normal and
color channels are selected. And we'll hit Finish
and close that up. Then we'll make sure
our model is selected. And we'll take a look
at the layers tab and the colors tab. And you'll see at the top here, we have our color and normal channel that we selected
in the body paint wizard. And we can now view those maps
over here, under texture. And here's the colormap that we can paint directly
onto if we need to. And we can easily switch
to the normal map and paint directly into that
channel to if we want. But let's start with
the color channel, which I want to fill with a
black color to begin with. So back in our perspective view, Let's head over
to the Layers tab and add a new layer by
right-clicking here. And we'll fill this
layer with black. So back under color, I'll choose a black
color that I've actually sampled from our
reference image. And I'm just input those values here and you can follow along with the same color or pick any other base color you like. Then we'll grab the
fill tool and fill our color channel with
the selected color by just clicking on the model. Okay, so now that we've got
our solid black base layout, Let's head over to
our Layers tab. And we'll make a new layer. And we might just hide
our base layer for now so we can concentrate on
painting our new layer. Then we'll go back here
and grab our brush tool. And I'll just pick a
slightly lighter version of our black base color. And if we click on
our current brush, we can choose a
different brush shape. So let's go with the
spotty brush here. And I'm going to
use this to paint some imperfections
onto our spider, which should help break up
that solid black color. We might adjust the size
of that brush as well. Then we'll just go
ahead and paint these dots all over the model. We can also switch
to the Texture tab and paint them
directly onto the UVs. And this way we won't miss
anything in the brush won't be obscured by the legs or
any other part of the model. Then I'll just go ahead
and cover the whole spot out with a nice
variation of dots. And as we go, I'll probably
tweak the brush size and pressure as well to make it
look as organic as possible. So follow along while
I do this or feel free to skip ahead because I think this might
take a little while. Okay, Let's go back to our layers and show
our base color again. And I'm not sure how
well you'll see this in the recording as it
is quite subtle. But I definitely think this
is looking more organic. And I might even
do one more pass with a larger brush size. Let's go back to texture view. And we'll paint the biggest
spots across all of the UVs. I think that looks good
because I want to try and get this looking as close to
my reference image as I can. We might just add
another layer in here to do a little bit
of layer blending. Let's get a slightly
bluer color in here and fill that
layer as well. Then I'll move this down
under the base black color. I'll set the blending
mode to dissolve. And I think this gets us a
bit closer to the reference. And I might even drop the
opacity of that layer as well. Again, this is very subtle, but I do think it goes a long
way in creating realism. And I definitely think that's
looking more like insects, skin or exoskeleton like. We could also try setting our
dots to dissolve as well. Okay, let's go over to
materials and open that up. Then in the color channel, Let's click and drag this map
over to the bump channel, like so, and activate that. And let's now giving us a nice bumpy surface over our model, thanks to the dots
that we paint it in. But rather than having
those bumps outward, let's bring the
strength slider to a negative value to invert that. And again, I think
that's looking more like the texture of an exoskeleton. So I'm happy with that. Said, let's move on to painting the red markings on our spider. I've added another layer here above our dots in
the color channel. And I'll bring up a
reference image of those red markings under
the spiders belly, which as you can see, a
kind of an hourglass shape. And I've also done
a quick mock-up of that shape in Illustrator. So let's bring that in as well. And before we paint
this onto our spider, I just want to make sure we
don't have any harsh shadows. So let's disable
that light as well. And also the
subdivision surface. And then we'll head
back here and I'll grab the eyedropper tool and
sample that red color. And we'll switch to the
bottom view of our model. Without selection tool here, let's draw out a
box that roughly corresponds to the
shape in our reference. And we'll fill that with red. Then we need to cut
out this shape. So I'll grab the eraser tool and switch to maybe this brush. And then we'll just start
cutting into the sides of this. And if we grab the move tool, we can even move this
around if we need to tweak the position,
which is pretty cool. So I'll just go ahead and
shape that a bit more. Then if we grab the
selection tool again and right-click out here
to deselect that shape. Just make sure I didn't miss
anything along those edges. And I'll go back
to the Paint tool and extend this read out a bit. And we'll just try and
blend these edges in a bit more with the
eraser tool again. And actually, I might just sharpen those edges up as well. So I'll just go
ahead and find tune this and then we can
work on the normal map. Okay, I'm happy with that. Let's go back to our UVs and we'll work on
the normal maps. So let's select the
normal channel over here. And we're going to do
things a little bit different here in
the normal channel. Let's come over here and
switch to texture paint. And we'll select a texture. And I'll just never get to a normal map down
the bottom here. And let's just preview that. We're going to use this
skin texture to give us something like this
in our reference image. So let's close this
and bring that in. And still without normal
channel selected, we'll go back to our
perspective view and just start painting this normal
texture straight onto here. We start to get a bit of
a wrinkled skin effect, which I guess is a little bit
different to the reference, but I think it's gonna
be close enough. We can definitely get away with a bit of creative license here. So I'll just go ahead
and paint this in. And we can also scale
and rotate this image. Let's rotate it a tad so the wrinkles go in
the other direction. For a bit of variety, Let's
try scaling it as well. And we can also try painting
this with a different brush. Okay, I think that will do. So. Now let's work on the red
stripe down the spiders back. And we'll use these
images for reference. Let's make a new layer again. And make sure we're now
back in the color channel. And here in our back view, we'll draw out another
rectangular selection. And we'll fill them
with the same red that we used before. And we'll switch
to the top view. And I'll just add
to this by holding Shift and dragging out
another rectangle. And we'll try and create
that arrow shape here. So I might just add
another bit in here. And now with our
Eraser tool again, Let's start painting
in that shape. And I'll create that
arrow shape here. So I might add another bit here. And we'll start blending
in those sharp edges. And this is going to be pretty
much the same technique. So again, feel free to
follow along or skip ahead. Okay, So let's add some
wrinkles to this as well. Over in the normal channel, where we will create
yet another layer and check that we still
have texture pain active. And we'll go ahead
and do that as well. So I'm going to get a bit
creative here and add a slight skull
shape to the stripe just to make our spider look
a bit more intimidating. So on another layer
in the color channel, let's add an image to our
Texture Painting mode. And we'll grab this goal. Then with our brush
tool will start to paint that image on like so. And these images
will actually repeat across the surface of our model. So we might need to paint
down here to uncover that skull is the
full-scale now. So let's grab the eraser and
paint out those other bits. Then we can grab
the Move tool and just reposition this
wherever we like. And I want this at the
tip of that stripe. So about there. Then to make this
nice and subtle, Let's try another blending mode. Maybe darken. And I'll just try
and get the eyes within that arrow shape. There. It looks good.
Alright, looking at another reference image, if we zoom in here, you can see the spiders
skin and the joints is a little bit thinner
and lighter colored. Let's also do the
same to our model. So back in color mode, let's sample that color. And on another layer, Let's start painting
in-between all of the joints, which again will
take quite awhile. So hop ahead if you like
or just follow along. And it's probably easier to
paint a lot of this directly in the UV texture view, like so. So we'll go ahead now
and paint all of these. At this point, I'll also start sampling different
shades of color from our reference images and
layering on some more variation. And again, this can be a
very time-consuming process, but I will need to go
over the entire model. And now I'm just
going over it again and trying to blend
the red markings in a little bit more K. So that's the color
channel sorted. So now grab the skin
normal map again and start painting into
the normal channel. And I just want to add these
wrinkles to the areas of the skin that might be
a bit more flexible, mainly around the joints again. So I'll just go ahead and run this over the
whole model as well. Alright, so I'm pretty happy
with our texturing now, but before we finalize
our model and start ringing and
up for animation, I also like to do
a quick run over our model with the
sculpting brushes again, just to make sure I'm happy
with those final forms. And this will completely
depend on your own taste. But I personally just want to
tweak some of these joints. So we'll go ahead and do that. And I'll see you in
the next lesson.
7. Rigging: Okay, so now that our
spot is all textured up, Let's get her ready
for animation. We'll start up here under
the character menu, where we'll bring it
in. A character object. In cinema 4D has
a whole bunch of handy templates in here to
speed up our rigging workflow. So as our spider is an insect, Let's go with that template. And that suggests we start with the thorax component down here. So let's do that. And if we switch
to the side view, you can see that that's given us a very small bone to start with. And the thorax should be more or less in the center
of our spider. So I'll just scale
the model down and position that bone
right in the middle. Let's also check the top view, which is quite a bit off center. Let's see if we can
fix that by zeroing out the x-axis of our modal. Close, but not quite. But we can easily fix
that up under Mesh and access with the
Access Center tool. Then with the default
settings here, we'll just hit Execute
and that'll put that excess right in the
center of our model. Then we can make this 0 again. We're now in line with
that center bone. So let's add our
other bones now, let's click back on the thorax
and we'll add a head bone, which is almost perfectly
where we want it. But let's just move our
spine that down a tad. And a little bit over as well. Then I want to 0 out the coordinates of
our model over here. Under freeze transformation. Let's freeze all n. Now
these are all set to 0. And we'll set up our next
set of bones from the head, and now we'll add the mandibles. And this is definitely
not in the right place. So let's switch to adjust mode. And we'll move that over here. And we want these points
to correspond with the actual mandibles
on our model, like so. And will need to
make sure those line up in the top view as well. And we'll just check
back in the site again. Now that that's in place, I'd like to check on the bones
being generated by this, by switching to binding, which does tend to
break things sometimes, which I think is due to us freezing the
transformation earlier. But we do now have all those
bones generated over here. Now we're getting there. Let's just go back to adjust mode and fix the
placement of these. I think we can adjust all of those components
while we're here. Let's put this
back at the end of the thorax area and center
this one a bit better. And just tidy the
mandibles up again. And now if we switch
back to binding mode, that seems to fix that and all of our bones
are looking good. So let's go back to build mode and finish adding
the components. Let's now add the abdomen, which can accept at the
back here, as you'd expect. Then to position this, we just need to
go back to adjust and make this follow the arch
of our spider's abdomen. And I'll finish down
here at the tip. And switching back to binding
will reveal those bones. Alright, so now let's
move on to the legs. And I've got a little
diagram here of the joints over spiders
leg for reference. So back here in Build mode, Let's add a leg, which does bring in
two of them like this. And if we go to adjust, we have symmetry on by default. And you can see that all
of these match up with the diagram is the coxa, the femur, the patella, etc. So as long as we modelled
our spider correctly, they should all match up. Let's switch to the top view and start getting
these interposition. And we'll have them start at the base of the front legs here. And I'll just go ahead
and put the rest of these points along the
leg at each joint. And this last one should be
for the claw at the end. Then we'll switch to
the side view and make sure all of these
match up here as well. And it's probably worth checking one more time back
in the top view. Then we'll switch
to binding mode to check on the
position of the bones. And I think we're
a little bit off. So let's just go back
and tweak that again. You might have to do
this a few times until those bones match up
perfectly with the geometry. So I'll just go ahead
and tweak these. And I think I'm
pretty happy with the placement of these now. So let's add the
rest of the legs. And this is going to be
a fairly long process. So follow along or just skip
ahead to the next section. Okay, so now that we've got
all of these legs setup, let's add another set of
mandibles for her fangs. And back in the top view, we just need to get these
into place as well. So back in adjust mode. Let's move this up to
the front of the head. And again, I'll just go
ahead and get this setup. Okay, so now that we've got
all of our bones in place, let's hide the modal and take
a look at our rig so far. And you can see
we've got a bunch of green lines under the legs indicating that the IKEA's have already been
set up on those. But if we zoom in here, we'll need to add IKEA's
to the mandibles manually. So we'll set that up. But I just want to make a
few changes to the display. First, if we switch
to the Animate tab, then display up here. Let's set visible too full. And under manager's. Let's also make that
full hierarchy. And now we'll be able
to see all those bones. And the control is in our rig. So we can select all the bones and will change the
bone display to box, which I think is a little
bit easier to see. Then let's turn these mandibles
at the front into IKEA's. Let's select that first
bone in the hierarchy, which is this one. And we'll right-click. And under rigging tags, we'll add an IK tag. Then we'll need to tell this
where the change should end. So we'll click on this
selection arrow and choose this bone at the
end of that hierarchy, which gives us our green line indicating the IK has been set. Then we'll add a
goal controller, which gives us this null object here at the end
of our hierarchy. And to make that a
bit easier to see, Let's set the display
of this to be a cube. And scale that down. And now we can easily grab that goal and move it around to control that IK chain
will undo that. And I might just make
it a tad smaller. Then I'll just go ahead and do that exact same thing
to the other one. Just so they stand
out a bit more. I'll also turn on the display
color and make them red. And the same for the other one. To finish up, I
might just scale up the goal at the end
of the abdomen here. And we'll bring back L mesh. Then if we grab the
character object again, we can now switch those
displays off again. So Object Manager back to none. And we'll just show the
controllers back in here. And now we need to sort
out our spider's eyes. Let's grab those and
move them up here. They've actually popped out
of our spot up because we've scaled it down since
modelling everything. So we'll have to
scale those down as well and move them
back into position. I might as well just
switch to access mode and move the axis a bit
closer to the eyeballs. And that should make
getting these into place a little bit easier. I'll also turn the lines
on in our viewport. And I want to rotate
the eyeballs so the poles are pointing outward. So let's grab this and
rotate them 90 degrees. And now we'll be able to see the direction
they're pointing in. A little bit easier. But we will need to put these
back into the eye sockets. So let's just sort that out to just be careful
of the hierarchy. We can probably move these
out for now while we do this. Okay, let's create
another PBS material for the eyes now and apply that
to the symmetry object. And we'll go in there. And
in the reflectance channel, Let's turn off the
default diffuse. And we'll add a
reflection layer. And I want these to
be shiny and black. So let's bring the brightness down and maybe the
roughness as well. That's looking nice and creepy. So we'll switch the
lines off again and we'll take a
look at this with the subdivision back on. Okay, I'm happy with the eyes. Let's grab all of
this and right-click. And we'll merge
everything together with a connect objects and delete. And now we're left
with a single object. And let's just make
sure that material is applied correctly. And we'll move it up here as
a child of our main mesh. And we could actually merge that into our main meshes well, by grabbing them both and
connect and delete again. And now that we have
our single mesh, we can go ahead and bring
this into our rigged bones. So back in the character
object under binding, let's drag our spider
mesh into here. And now if we switch this to animate and try to move
one of these controllers. You can see that the
spider mesh has now been bound to the rig and
follows along nicely. So all that remains to do is check them are
binding is correct. So let's turn off the
subdivision surface again and switch views. Let's try another controller. And here you can see where
that binding isn't perfect. This is influencing
the leg as well. And same over here. So we're going to need to
refine the binding so that each controller affects the
correct area of L mesh. So back in display, let's make sure we can see
the full hierarchy again. And we'll grab all the bones in the legs and set the
display to line. And now we can come up
to the character menu. And under management,
let's open up the weight manager and we'll
just move that over here. Will also need to come back
here and grab the white tool. And now we can see which
parts of our model are being influenced by each bone. And straight away, I'm seeing too many different
colors on the abdomen. So let's start by fixing that. Let's activate point mode. And I want to isolate the
selection to the abdomen only. So let's switch to the
Lasso selection tool as well and switch views. Then I'll just grab a chunk
of the abdomen, like so. Then up in our selection
menu using gross selection, which is you then
Y on the keyboard. We can press that a
few times and grow the selection until the
whole abdomen is selected. So about there. Let's check in the
perspective view. Not quite hit you
and why a few more times until it's right
at the end there. Now let's look for
the abdomen bones in our weight manager,
which is here. And this hierarchy corresponds
to all of these bones. And these are the
only bones that should influence our
current selection. Let's grab all of those. And under auto weight, we want to weight this
by selected points. Then we'll just click Calculate. And to check that's worked, let's make sure we're in object mode and we have
our mesh selected. And we can just go back to
our recently used tools and grab the white tool again. And now the abdomen is
a single green color. And if we re-select
our model again, we can see all the influences. And the abdomen is now only affected by the abdomen bones. So that part's all sorted. But I can tell by all
the color bleeding into the thorax area that this is also going to need some work. So let's do the same thing here. Back in point mired. We'll use the rectangular
selection tool this time. And we'll grab the
center of the thorax and again u and y to extend the
selection all the way out. But unfortunately that's not quite selecting what we need. We've missed the
sides here and we're already extending into
the legs as well. So we might need to do something a little
bit different here. Let's use Edge mode. And we'll try cutting
around the legs like we did back
in the UVs lesson. And I'll just do all the legs
on this side of the body. And also around this. Then I'll mirror the selection. And we also want to
cut away the abdomen. And it looks like I
might have missed a bit on this leg as well. So let's grab that too. Then to select, this
whole piece will go to select and fill selection. And now we can select
everything within those edges, which selects the
whole thorax area. So we'll convert this
selection two points. And actually, I don't want
things to be included in this. So let's just go back and
cut those away as well. And mirror that across. And fill selection again. And now endpoint mode, we'll go back to
our weight manager. We want to bind
this selection to the thorax and head bones. And auto weight that as well. Then white tool again. And object mode. And that binding has now
also been corrected. And unfortunately, we need
to do this for the rest of the model as well to get all of the limbs bound correctly. So I'll go ahead and do that. But as usual, feel
free to skip ahead. Okay, that's done.
So at this point, we need to start
testing el binding with some animation so we can make sure our mesh is
deforming correctly. So let's go back to
the character object. And under object animate, Let's add a walk cycle, which adds a C motion
animation to our rig. And now if we hit Play, now spiders starts to walk. But we can get an idea of
how that mesh is deforming. And I do think the
blending between the limbs is probably a
little bit too sharp, which doesn't look
all that realistic. So to smooth that out, Let's go to the commands tab in our weight manager and make sure we've got
our mesh selected. And we'll run a
smooth operation over L binding at 100% strength, which helped a little bit. But let's try smoothing
again. And again. It's a bit better, but we
might need to go back to our weight tool and
manually smooth this out. With the mode set to smooth, Let's just start blending
these together a bit more. I'm actually going
to take quite a bit of time with this and make sure all the limbs are
smoothly bound to our rig. So again, follow along or skip ahead because this might
take a little while. Okay, So this is
definitely looking better, but we are still
getting a bit of popping around these joints. So the binding could still
stand to be a little bit smoother if we wanted this
to be perfect, which we do. If we open the weight
manager again, we might be able to
see the smoothing a bit easier by selecting Burns in here to isolate
the blending on each bone. And we can just smooth
those out like so. Another thing we can
do this smooth this out is with our
sculpting brushes. I find running the smooth
brush over the joints at this stage can also help with
the popping of the mesh. Let's go round and
smooth these joints out while keeping an
eye on that animation. And finally it to really
perfect the binding. I'll even go through bone
by bone and make sure everything is looking correct
and as smooth as possible. And you can see here, we've actually
missed a patch when we expanded the point
selection earlier, decided to paint that back in, we just need to set
our weight tool to add mode instead of smooth
and just paint that in. And of course everything
needs to be smooth. So I'll switch back
to the smooth mode again and sort that out. Then onto that next bone. And it looks like the
auto waiting hasn't given influence to this whole
section of the mesh. So we also need to
paint that in as well and also smooth it. So that's pretty much the
workflow for doing this. So I'll just go through
and really fine tune it. So follow along if
you need the help. Otherwise, I'll see you in
the next lesson where we finish up by adding
some animation.
8. Animation: So before we start animating
our black widow spider, it's probably a good
idea to take a look at some video reference
of spiders walking. And you can find loads of clips online with a quick
Google search. And these are a couple
of the clips that all be basing our animation on. So have a good look
at some reference, and let's hop back into
Cinema 4D and do this. Alright, let's start by
clicking on the sea motion walk cycle animation we added
in the previous lesson. We wanna be able to see
everything hidden away down here. So let's click on this plus icon to make a duplicate
of this window. We can make this full screen. Bring this down to reveal all the sea motion
object controls. And basically see motion allows us to cycle animation on
any parameters we choose. We can see all the parameters of our rig that are currently being animated in
cycled down here. And these will match up
with the different parts of the rig that we set up
in the previous lesson. So if we minimize this and
just move it over here, we can play that
walk cycle back, which is very subtle and
very slow at the moment. But we can then control each
bone separately from here. If we click on this icon
next to the back right leg, you can see that that
legs stops moving or is no longer receiving
that cycled animation. And we can just reactivate
that by clicking again. And I find the naming
of these parts in here. It can be a little bit
confusing by default. So I'd like to turn everything off and go through each part individually and just rename these to something that makes a little bit more sense
to me personally. So if we grab this one, we can see that that's
the front left leg. So we could call it front
left leg one if we wanted to, or L at leg one or even L1. Mattea originally recorded
these videos and Portuguese. So we've actually set
the naming convention with E and D for left and right, because this is left and
right in Portuguese. So if you do get confused
with our labeling, just remember that E is
left and D is right. But again, feel
free to name these, however, makes
most sense to you. Let's reactivate leg D1, which is right leg one, A2, which is left leg to D3, which is right leg three. And finally E4, which
is left leg four. So we've selected
alternating legs along the body or each second
leg on both sides. We're going to re-time
the motion offset of each of these
legs by adjusting the phase to negative 20 for each of these
alternating legs. So I'll just set
that on all four. And we'll take a look
at what that gives us. You can see those
adjacent legs and now moving in tandem
in the walk cycle. But they are moving slow. So to increase the speed, we need to lower the
time value here, which controls the
speed of the cycle. So let's drop that down
to 12 frames per cycle. And if we play that back, those legs are moving
a lot quicker. So now we just need to set
up the remaining legs. And to have the correct offset, we need to change
the face value on the remaining legs to 20
instead of negative 20. So let's do the same for the remaining legs that are
currently set to inactive. Now we can reactivate
those as well. And we'll play that back. And I think this is a bit closer to how a real spider moves. And if we change the walk
type from static to line, we can see how that cycle
looks on our spider when she's actually
walking along in a line. And I think that's starting
to look pretty good. So let's set this
back to static. And another thing we wanna do at this point is over
in the side view, we just want to make
sure the spiders legs aren't going to poke through the floor
during the walk cycle. And you can see if
we zoom in here, these legs need to
be up a bit further, so they're resting on
that ground plane. And you can actually
use a cool free plugin to quickly align
these to the floor, called drop to the floor. And I'll put a link to
that down below as well. Basically, it will give
you this button here, which when clicked, automatically aligns
the mesh to the floor. Let's just do that for
all of our legs quickly. And we'll also need to
reposition the feelers as well. And these can go a little
bit above the ground. And we'll just finished
a lining those legs. Let's enable see motion
and see how that looks. And now the legs aren't
going through the ground, but it also looks like they're not bending enough anymore. So let's go back to see
motion and tweak that. And below each one of
these controllers, we have a lift control, which is going to allow us to
adjust the height in which our legs can move or how
far they lift upward. Let's try increasing
this value to 30 on our front left leg. And you can see that's
now lifting up a bit higher than the
other front leg. So I'll go ahead
and change the lift to 30 centimeters on each leg. We'll go back here and
see how that looks. Alright, we're definitely
getting there. Let's start adding in
some secondary animation to give our walk cycle
a bit more realism. If we grab the hub
options controller here, we can start layering on some secondary
motion to our rig, which will affect more
of the whole body or center of mass. We can choose from a
list of actions here. And we'll just go
from the top to bottom starting with shift. So let's add that. And if we hit Play, the shift action is going to
shift the center of our rig left and right to mimic that swaying of the
body while walking. And we can refine this in
the options over here. And I think it should
be a bit more subtle. So we'll drop the shift in
the x-axis down to two. And I think that
looks a bit better. We can also add a bit
of variation as well so that it's not such a
linear back-and-forth. Okay, let's layer
on another action. This time we'll add some lift
to the body and add that, which puts it down
here in our list. We can isolate just airlift by disabling the shift like we
did before with these arrows. And I think the lift is a
bit too intense as well. So let's take a look
at the options. We can actually change how
this motion blends with the overall animation by
changing this blend value, which is a little bit different. I think we'll try the
ad blending mode and adjust this further
by decreasing it in the mix to make this
even more subtle. And let's see what that
looks like with the shift. And I think we might mix these together a little bit more. Let's lower the mix back
in the shift action. And it might be
easier to see this if we hide those controls
for a second. And I think that's starting
to look a bit more realistic. So let's add in the next
action in our list, the push and Add. Then we'll just isolate that to see how the push affects things. And it doesn't look like it's
doing anything actually. So let's take a look
at the settings. And it looks like
everything is zeroed out on this by default. Let's click here
and add a point to our frequency control
and lift this up. Then we can control
the intensity here. And you can see that
it's now pushing our spiders body back and forth. So let's just dial this in
until it looks a bit more realistic and adjust
the mix as well. And we can tweak
the frequency as well by shifting this around. Then we'll see how that blends
with the other actions. Okay, looking good. Let's add the next section, which is now the pitch, and will disable the others. So we can see only this effect. And again, we'll need
to start by adding a frequency and
adjusting the intensity. And you can see how that's
tilting our spider, which is what the
rotational pitch does. And we'll try that. That's looking nice. Let's see it with
the other effects. And we're slowly building
up that realism now. So again, we'll turn these
off and grab the next one. Twist this time, which does
exactly what you'd expect. And twist cell model,
which is quite cool. So you could even make it do a little dance if you wanted to. But we'll just do the same again and blend this with
our other effects. Nice. And suddenly, you can probably guess what
we're going to do next. Let's add in our final
action here, roll. Which roles are rig,
left and right. And I want this to
be subtle as well. Okay. So let's see what it
all looks like together. Okay, almost done. I think. I might just
adjust the stride as well, which is the distance of
each step our spider takes. If we increase this, you can see she's taking
longer steps with each leg. So let's switch this to line and see how that looks
when she's walking. And I think we've got some more spider-like movement
happening now. So let's set this
back to static. And I think we could
probably make this look even better by adding some secondary animation to the abdomen and the
rest of the body. So let's go back to our
emotion again and disable everything except the abdomen Control Alt down
the bottom here. And with that selected, we can actually add an action to the abdomen controller as well. So let's give it a shift action. I want to have the abdomen
swinging a little from side-to-side while she walks. So let's make some tweaks here. And that's wiggling
a little bit now. So we'll just draw
that in a bit more. Let's also come back here
and add a Push action. And we'll use this to have the abdomen move back and forth, which looks like
that with the shift. And I don't want this
to push up too much, so we'll fine tune that as well. I think that works. Let's also add some motion
to the head controller. Let's give that some pitch, which should make the head
bob up and down a bit. Let's add that and
make some tweaks. And then she goes,
and it looks cool. And again, we'll make
this nice and subtle. Then we'll see what all of
that looks like together. And at this point, I'm just going to go
through and refine all of these settings to make sure it's all working together nicely. So follow along or skip ahead. Okay, Let's go back to line mode and take a
look at her walk again. I like it, but I feel like those front legs are
reaching out a bit too far. So let's switch
to the side view. And what is grab the
front leg controllers and bring them back a bit and a
bit of an those front legs. And I think that's a
bit more spider-like because they feel around with those front
legs, don't they? And speaking of feeling, Let's move on to the file's
back to static mode. You can see those feelers aren't doing too
much at the moment. And we shouldn't actually
call them feel is the scientific name is
actually petty palps. So let's see if we can
find them in the list and add some motion
to those as well. And we've got the
mandibles down here, but we actually need
those goal controls at the tips that we set up
in the rigging lesson. So let's see if we can
find those in our scene. And it's these two nulls
here that we need. So let's grab this one and
drag it into our list. And you can see that
going on in the viewport. And it's called the
tibia at the moment. But let's just call it
P1 for petty palps, one, to keep things scientific. And we'll bring the
other one in as well. And name that to P2. We need these set to
be driven by the hub because they're attached to
the head and not the legs. So they'll adopt the movements
of the body instead, which looks like this. So add a bit of Sway
to those as well, starting with a shift action. And that's now
swaying side-to-side. So tweak that a bit. And I think that looks good. Let's copy this time and
paste it on the other filler. Then, so that's inverted. We'll set this to
a negative value. Then we'll add another action, this time a push. And this controls the
front end back motion. I'll just try and
get this looking nice and natural as well. And copy that over to
the other one as well. And inverted. And for variation, Let's maybe give this one some
slightly different values. Okay, let's layer
on one more action. Let's go with lift this time. I think you probably
understand the workflow now. So I'll just go ahead and
finish setting this up. So follow along or skip to
the next section where we'll set up these secondary
animation on the fangs. Okay, let's move
on to the fangs, which correspond to
these bones over here. But we didn't add
a controller or IK chain to these back
in the rigging lesson. So let's quickly do that now. So at the root of the bones on that right thing,
Let's right-click. And under rigging tags, add an IK tag. Then we need to pick a goal, which will need to
be the last bone in the hierarchy here. So we'll click
that and add goal. Then we'll grab the
newly created goal now, which is right at the
tip of that thing. And I'll just change the
display of this two sphere. And if we go back here, Let's give this a
different color, maybe a nice bright blue. Okay, so that's one thing done. Let's do the other one. Grab the top bone, right-click rigging tags, IK. Then we'll click the
arrow and choose the n bone and end goal. And we'll make
this blue as well. And a sphere. Okay, let's go back to
our C motion controls. Or grab that left Fang goal
and drag that into here and rename it to J1 and
have it driven by the hub. Then we'll do the same
for the other thing. Let's see what the
animation looks like. It looks a little
bit funny actually. I don't want the fangs moving around with the rig so much. So maybe we'll set
the driver on both of these to none instead. Okay, that's better. Let's just add our own
animation to those fangs. Grab the first one here. We'll add a lift action. And I want to have
things to lift up and down slightly as she walks. So let's drop this down to 0.5 and maybe decrease
the mix a bit as well. Let's copy that from that thing and paste it to the other. Okay, let's go back to this one and add another action
shift this time, which will swing the
facing side to side. Let's make a few
adjustments here. Again, I want this
to be fairly subtle. That's fine. Let's copy that to the
other one as well. I'll just invert that value. And I think that'll
do us for now. You can always come
back to see motion and refine the walk cycle
if you need to. Let's just add a floor
to our scene and turn on some lights so we can get a good look at how
our spider is moving. And we'll switch this to line. So she actually moves
across the ground. And I think we're good
with the walk cycle now, but I just want to
make sure her body isn't going through
the ground plane. Now that we've added the
secondary animation. So let's switch
to the side view. And indeed she is
poking through there. Now, let's disable the
sea motion object. And we'll just lift our
main controller up a tad and re-enable that. That's looking better. I k, So that's the
walk cycle all sorted. Let's now see if we can set a path for our spider
to walk along. Let's get rid of that floor
and disable the lights again. And we'll turn geometry
only off in the viewport. And we'll start by
having our spider walk around in a circle. So we'll come up here
and bring in a circle. And we'll need to
change the access and scale it up a bit larger. Then if we grab our C motion again and pop that
out in a new window, we need to change
the type to path. Then we can select the
path with our arrow here. We'll choose the circle and straight away our spider
locks onto that shape. And if we hit play, she starts walking along
the path of the circle. And we can easily adjust the
speed she's walking along this by increasing
the stride value. And she's walking
a bit faster now. We can fine tune this further
over in the pose tab. Firstly, down here, we can set
the direction of the walk. And if we change this to x, for example, we can have our
spider walking sideways. So maybe if you
decide to make a crab instead of a speedup,
this could come in handy. We can also change this to Z and have her walk
backwards if we wanted to. Let's just put that
back to negative Z. We can even control each
footstep if we needed to. If we zoom in, you can see this leg looks a
bit funny back here. It's probably
outstretched a bit too much while she turns the corner. But we can tweak this easily
over here in the steps tab. Or we need to do is link this
up to our circle as well. By grabbing the arrow and
selecting that as well. Then we just need to hit Create steps to generate
the steps along the circle. But we also just want to
make sure under pose, we've got the alignment
set to 100 per cent. So the spider follows
exactly on that path. Then back here, let's
create those steps. And that generates all
the left and right steps I'll spider makes on her
journey along the path. And what's really
cool is that we can grab any of these and adjust each footstep individually so we can really fine
tune the walk cycle. So we can easily correct
that stretched out back leg by just grabbing that snip and
bringing it in a bit more. And now just that step
has been corrected. So we can have our
split out walking over pretty much any terrain we want. So I'll just go
ahead and fix that back leg for all those steps. I think that's
looking much better. Okay, so let's try and
have our spider walk across a 3D shape instead. If we take a look
up the top here, these are all the steps that see motion has generated for us. So let's just grab all of
these and delete them. And we'll bring in a 3D primitive for our
spider to walk around. So let's go with a sphere. And we want this to
be nice and smooth. So we'll increase
the segments first. And we'll scale that up
nice and big as well. Then if we go back
to our emotion walk cycle and over to the
root tab this time, we can choose a 3D surface
to walk across down here. So again, with our
arrow selector, Let's choose our sphere. And the rigs a bit funky there. So let's enable a line hubs. And as easy as that, she's now walking around
the surface of our sphere. And we've got a few
other options down here. We can tweak with this. Firstly, if your spider isn't aligning with that
surface perfectly, you can try toggling a line tangents on and off to
see if that's any better. I think in our case,
we'll just leave that on. We can also offset
the model from the surface if we have
any intersecting by enabling Min distance and
just tweaking that offset. But I think our spot is
looking pretty good. So let's leave that off as well. We can also scale our
sphere up if we like, and I've spread out
will stay stuck to that surface,
which is quite cool. Let's make our sphere
editable by clicking over here again or hitting
C on the keyboard. Then let's see if we can find soon these footsteps like we did before and stop these legs
stretching out so far. At this point, I'll
spider is still following our circle because we set that back in our
scene motion before, which is why the spider
is still walking around as sphere in
this circular motion, we only deleted
the steps before. So let's go back
to the walk cycle again and over in
these steps tab, Let's create steps
again on our sphere. This time, we'll grab
our arrow picker again, and this time we'll choose
the sphere and create steps. And now we can do exactly
the same thing again, but across our sphere instead. And it can be a little
tricky to select these steps when
they're on geometry. So let's go to the Select
menu under selection filter, let's disable polygon selection. And now we should
be able to grab those steps a bit easier. Go ahead and tweak
these like we did before to correct those
overstretched legs. So follow along or skip ahead. And there we go. Let's hide our rig now by
showing only the geometry. And we'll throw that
white material on our sphere and pop
out light back on. And we've now modeled textured, rigged and animated are
black widow spider. So big, thanks to you
for making it this far. And now that you know
exactly how to do this, you can take these
techniques and create your own black widow or
eight-legged character. So let's finish up in the
next video where we'll give you a few ideas for
your course project.
9. Class Project: So now that you
know how to modal texture rig and animate a black widow spider
in Cinema 4D, it's your turn to create something cool with
your new skills. So you could create
your own black widow seen maybe something like this, or try a different
kind of spider or a different type of
creature altogether. Or you could try
thinking outside the box completely and create
something like this. We've included the
downloadable project file to give you some ideas and
help you get started. And if you make something cool, don't forget to post it
over on our Facebook group. And if you enjoyed the
course or have any feedback, feel free to leave a review. Thanks again for
supporting CG shortcuts. We'll catch you next time.