Beginners - Watercolor Moonscape | Dhritikana Nath | Skillshare

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction Moonscapes

      2:36

    • 2.

      Flow of the class

      1:23

    • 3.

      Materials Required

      2:27

    • 4.

      Essential Techniques

      13:01

    • 5.

      Project 1 - Yellow Moonlight

      13:04

    • 6.

      Project 2 - Blood Moon

      21:50

    • 7.

      Project 3 - Moon & Clouds

      13:47

    • 8.

      Project 4 - Illumination

      22:54

    • 9.

      Project 5 - Winter Evening

      25:45

    • 10.

      Project 6 - Lighthouse View

      24:39

    • 11.

      Bonus Lesson 1 - Shining Moon

      31:54

    • 12.

      Bonus Lesson 2 - The Reflection

      48:22

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15

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About This Class

I'm excited to share an opportunity for anyone interested in exploring the beauty of watercolor painting through a unique subject: Moonscapes. Our class is designed specifically for beginners who want to build their confidence in watercolor techniques. We will start with an overview of all necessary materials, then move into engaging projects that will guide you through creating stunning moonscape paintings. By the end of the class, you will have two A4 size, frame-worthy artworks as bonus lessons!

Each project lasts between 13 to 20 minutes, making it easy to fit into your regular schedule, no matter how busy you are. This class welcomes artists of any level, allowing everyone to enjoy the fluidity and movement of pigments on paper. For further details, please check the project Description section. If you have any questions feel free to post it in the discussion section.

Looking forward to your participation!

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Dhritikana Nath

Watercolor Artist and Instructor

Top Teacher

Hello All, I am Dhritikana Nath an artist, instructor, educator & entrepreneur from Delhi, India.

I am the founder of VibrantParcels where we make hand bound sketchbooks, brush-roll, pouches etc. This is a fairly new initiative as I was searching for good sketchbooks and it was not available readily in the market so just thought to make something of my own. Then wanted to cater to the greater needs of creatives and added brush-roll & Pouches.

I have a monthly membership on Patreon where I teach more about light & shade, landscapes, urban sketching, travelling etc.

I am a strong believer of the idea that anyone can paint if you put an honest effort and for excelling in painting there are only 2 rules practice and frequency of painting. I did start my journey... See full profile

Level: All Levels

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Transcripts

1. Introduction Moonscapes: Always think about shining in the dark. If you two feel the same way, then you have landed at the correct class. This course is for everyone who is struggling with watercolors like basic washes, wet on wet, wet on dry or is still dabbling with understanding of how to partner with this beautiful medium watercolors. Hi, guys, I am Karnath an artist, instructor, mother, skill share teacher, and brand owner of vibrant fossils, where we manufacture handmade sketchbook, artist break paints, and much more. If you are someone who is joining me for the first time, I go by the name watercolor dot illustration dot Letter, on Instagram and even on YouTube, I go by the same name. The flow of the class is very easy to understand. We start out with the materials required, then move on to a brief description about the colors which I have used in every project. Every project is simple and easy, starting with a time limit of 13 minutes to ending it within 20 to 25 minutes. When we start out, we think about how we can sketch or can we even sketch, et cetera, we will use basic shapes like circle or straight lines, which gives you lesser thought process of going into the sketching or getting scared about the sketching and only working through the watercolors pot. The size of the paper is 5-6, which gives you a lot more opportunity to play with the colors, as well as do not think much about getting it wasted if you have not got the exact results that you wanted. There are six projects in total. Once you are done with these projects, we will move on to the final bonus lessons that is A four size paintings. Each of these paintings are frameworth. Without any further delay, let's move on to our first lesson now. 2. Flow of the class: As you know, this is our first lesson and it has to be everything that we start out in this class. I give you a basic understanding of all the materials, but it is not necessary at all to go ahead with those materials only. Whatever is available with you, please use that, whether it be the colors, brushes, paper, et cetera. Only the paper is very important. It has to be 100% cotton 300 GSM, as all the paintings are really small, watching this class on a bigger screen is, of course, going to help you to understand the smaller details which are being covered. You need to keep two sizes of paper, actually a single size. You can divide your A four size paper into two equal halves or else go ahead with a bit smaller size than A four and divide it into two halves to have the smaller paintings covered, and then you can move on to the A four size for the bonus lesson. The bonus lesson will come up after a week so that you have already covered all these six projects and then you move on to the tougher part or a bit longer part is all I'm going to say. Finally do enjoy the process of painting with watercolors. That is all I want from you and hope that you nail all the paintings in this class. 3. Materials Required: Let me tell you everything that we need from the materials required perspective, I would be using arches, 100% cotton, 300 GSM, 140 B paper. This is 20 to 20 centimeter, but this particular paper size is 13 centimeter by 18 centimeter. This is an A four size paper that you can see over here. This A four size can be exactly same as what I have taken. If you even want to do it on a bit bigger size, I'm okay with it. I will keep a board like this. Now, this board is very helpful when I have to attach my paper on top of it. I always keep a board like this. Either it can be an acrylic board or it can be a paper cutting board as you see over here. Bleed proof white, pH Martin color, which is majorly a white wash color that I use for drawing these areas. Let me tell you a bit about what all we need. First is eraser. This is a secular eraser. You can use any eraser that's available with you. Then I have the pencil. I have brushes. This is Escoda optimal size six brush. This is the Vinci Casaneo size three brush, this particularly is three by four Escoda brush. This is Raphael three by zero brush. Either you can use this or else if you have any other brushes like silver velvet, et cetera, feel free to use that. I'm keeping a scale by my side for one of the paintings where I need it. Freehand line drawing is always good, but if you cannot do a freehand line drawing, I think keeping a scale by your side is always a great help. A ceramic palette, and you need to also keep any kitchen towel or tissues for taking off all the extra colors or even just putting extra water from your brushes on top of it that way. We can have dry brushes for any dry brushes in our painting. Two jars of water is mandatory for all my paintings because one is a fresh supply of water and another one is a regular supply of water where I usually wash my brushes. 4. Essential Techniques: There are six essential techniques which would help you to save through your bonus lessons as well as the project very smoothly. Let's have a look into each one of them. Guys, the first thing that today we are going to do is to work on wet on wet. Now what is wet on wet? We will just go ahead and apply a clear layer of photo like this on top of the paper. And then once you have a shine like this, you have to see that all the areas are done well or not. Once this is done, we will take off all the extra water with the help of our brush and light our brush which is loaded. Right now, this is not loaded. I would go ahead and load with a blue colour. Once I have loaded my brush with a blue color like this one, I will go ahead and just start painting. Now, this is a wet on wet method. I will go from the top and move to the bottom my darkest value can be on the top and my lightest value can be on the bottom, or I can just go ahead with a flat wash. In this case, I would go ahead with just a flat wash. You can see how this works. I will again load my brush with some colors and start from the bottom and go till the top. Once this is done, you will again load your brush and move from the right to the left, again, load your brush, move from the right to the left. That was left to the right and now this is right to the left. You can see there is an even distribution of pigments on each area. This is easy to do and I would say, I have preferred this method for many years. If you are a big n, I think this particular method can work wonders for you. Let's start out with the next, which is wet on dry. For wet on dry method, I would always ask you to make a pool of paints. Now, why I say a pool of paints, I know many of you are pretty good with your watercolors, but there are small, small mistakes that we always do. If we don't have this pool ready, what happens is that I will again mix and then add, which would lead to an uneven mix. Once you are starting out from the top, see, I think loading this brush is a bit difficult, so I might have to switch to a flat brush. I will tell you how. This is a flat brush. I will load my brush with lots of paints. It would give me very quickly this wet on dry method. You see how much amount of paints this brush can hold? And I'm now moving towards the bottom, gliding my brush again and starting out with my ins to move from the top to the bottom and bottom to the top. This is the best way to do this, I would say, it is whatever works best for you. It can be wet on wet. That works best for you, it can be wet on dry, that works best for you. Wet on dry can of course, give you a much darker value compared to wet on wet. We will see that once this paper dries off. But since I did add a lot of water even when I was pouring my wet on dry technique, you might find both of them pretty much the similar. I would start with my clear water. This is my Cleo water. Blending is nothing but you can do it in one color. You can do it with two colors or you can even do it with three colors. I would prefer going with two colors at this stage. One would be the same color that we did apply earlier. I would go from the top part. You will see automatically the colors will move and I will take it till the bottom. I'm not going to dip my brush any further in water, whatever color I'm getting, that is it. Now I will pick up my ultramarine and go from the bottom to the top. I start from the bottom and start moving up till the top. And see how the colors move into each other so well without doing much work. This was blending on wet. Now blending on wet is way simpler than blending on dry. I would always say that if you are a beginner, what happens is we don't know what is much about the water control part and that's one of the reasons going from over just a dry surface might become tough because you don't know the correct brush, how much water it can hold, and that's one of the reasons we commit a lot of mistakes in watercolors. I will even show you how I fix my mistakes in the upcoming bonus lesson that we are going to see. But before that, I think these two exercises can surely help you in your watercolor techniques. Now, if you feel that this area has become really less, while you were blending, you can just add something below it. Like this and allow it to move into each other. This way they will automatically create the colors that is needed with the help of the gravitational pop. I guess I am very much okay with how the wet on wet wet on dry and blending on wet has worked out. Let's go to blending on Troy. All I'm going to show you is I have pool of colors available for me. Now, if I have a pool of color, it becomes really easy for me to go ahead and work through the watercolor. I have two pool of water. I was earlier having just one. You will see two of them coming together at this stage, now it becomes very easy for me to work with the blending process. I will show you how. Let's just pick up our first color has a very good and generous amount, as you can see over here, I'm going ahead with the top part. I will start with my top part. Move, move move move. Again, load my brush. I keep loading my brush every time I have to light my brush onto the paper. Now, since my other color is way more darker than what I'm using over here at this stage, it really doesn't matter if I'm even taking this color in the bottom. If you are actually using a very opaque color, then it might be difficult because watercolors are meant to be transparent. Now I will go with a bit more darker value and start applying it on top of the color that I've already applied. You can see that there are a bit of I would say lines that are coming up because my paper is becoming really dry and you will even see this coming up in your projects if something like this, you are drying up. Let's try with our bottom part. Now since this is d a bit wet or moist, it becomes easier for me to glide my brush and blend the colors. I will always take it to the top. Go a bit slow with this process, there is no hurry. Always know that watercolors is not about hurry. It's also about the fact that we have to enjoy the process. Enjoying the process is most important. If you can enjoy the process, I can tell you you are going to nail your painting perfectly. Landing on dry turns out to be way more darker for both the colors. Now I can again go ahead and apply one more layer over here like this and glide a bit up. And we were at this stage. You can do one more thing. Now, you can just take off all the colors from your brush. Take off every color that's there on your brush and start lighting your brush very nicely on top of the colors that you have already applied. This way, there will be a seamless flow of colors on all the power because we haven't gone ahead with a brush that has water or that is holding a lot of water. Now, painting on moist, what do I mean by painting moist? Let's go ahead and just apply a clear layer of water. This is not not having lots and lots and lots and pools of water on top of it. You have seen that I've just dipped my brush once in water and now I'm leaning ahead and applying that brush over here. Supposedly I want to work on moist. I will go ahead and start gliding my brush like this for waves or for anything of your choice, this can work wonders. It doesn't have a lot of water. That's one of the reasons you are not going to actually get puddle or anything like that. It can work great for your future paintings too in case you are trying out. And other paintings where you're working on moist. Supposedly, I want to make some background trees or some kind of Um, Clouds. Everything can work great with this an approach. This is painting on moist. We will be using this painting on moist when we are doing our third project, that is to paint our mood where there is cloud, et cetera. This would be more about painting on moist. Now is painting on dry. Let's do what's painting on dry. Let's go ahead. And not have anything and start painting anything of your choice. Maybe some of my trees that maybe some fine trees that I'm going to add to this painting. Go ahead with another layer like this. We will just add a small line like this. If you want to paint wet, then you can go ahead and start adding this wet trees or bushes or whatsoever on this surface. This is mostly painting on dry with a combination of painting on wet. You can also go here with some splatters if you were done with this part, use some spatos and you see how beautifully the whole turns up. Some foreground dark depth that we have given, some background colors that we have given. You can also have a sky of your choice if something that you want, or you want to keep it empty just like that and have some birds flying. Maybe we'll see how we can even do that. I will go ahead with my darkest value that is pain spray, and I have some birds like this. It was just too dry to even have any colors. Okay. This is what is a final painting entre. 5. Project 1 - Yellow Moonlight: Only two colours are needed for this painting, naples, yellow, and nutritive. We are starting out with one of the easiest paintings in whole of this series, though you see a painting on the left, which we are going to do next. I am going ahead with any coin, take any coin of your choice, and this is kind of an A six size paper, or you can take it a bit bigger. You want to make it on A five. I'm good to even go with that, but make sure that you are not extending it more than A five, as there is not much that you have to go ahead and paint in this particular painting. It's only the light of the moon that we need to highlight and then go ahead with the bottom part where we are going to paint the trees. Let us start out first with the lightest value. And for this one, my lightest value is somewhere in between the naples yellow and the Indian yellow, which is from my own palette that I've made for myself. This particular palette, I use it for all my paintings. It has the colors that I need, whether it be an urban sketching, whether it be moonscapes, landscapes, water, any subject, and I can nail all the subjects with this whole set that I've made for myself. Though you might have different color that is available in your palette, go ahead and use that whatever is there on the palette. You do not need to go ahead with whatever I'm showing right now. Do not apply any water on your paper. This is a wet on dry method, and hence a 300 GSM paper is a must or else you will get very dark lines, or you might get hard edges, which we really want to avoid in this painting. In case you are someone who is not using an arches paper or who is not using a 300 GSM, you can also go ahead with a wet on wet technique. That way, the blending would be really smooth and easy. I am applying some more of my neutral tint. I really do not like to use any black in my whole of the paintings that you see, which I do til date. Hence, I keep neutral tint by my side whenever there is something more darker or paints like this, so some painting like this, I go ahead with my neutrtint. Though you can also use Mars black or any of the other black color that's available with you, as I know, many of you love to paint black or dark paintings, too, and it's up to you, you want to go ahead with it, you do not want to go ahead with, you want to keep a neutrtent, you do not want to keep a neutrtent. Whatever color is available is good to start out with. All I want you guys is to have a creative mindset, and that creative mindset can really inculcate lot more ideas. And as you progress with watercolors, you will understand that using a bigger brush can help you cover larger spaces very quickly, just exactly the way over here, we switched our brush to a larger brush. You can also use a 1 " brush if you do not have a brush of three by four inch. So all of it is up to you to decide whatever best available resources you have, use them to make these paintings. You can see the yellow is not blending at all with the neutral thin that I have, and I need to make some effort to really help it blend. Now, these things do happen in many of my paintings. Believe me, when I start out, I might look like I'm struggling and hence we might have to go ahead dig our paper a bit. This is a very easy phenomenon that all of you can use in any of your future paintings, too. What happens this way is that gravity plays a great role in your painting. The water comes down and it helps to pull the colors also from the top to the bottom, and the blending is very natural in this way. We do not need to put any extra efforts when you are blending. I have already added some amount of my naples yellow, even in the middle part as you did absorb over here, and then again, I've started blending it with my neutral thin. I continue to pick up my darkest of the value as I approach to the bottom. Believe me, right now, I have a lot of water on the paper, and hence once this paper dries off, it would be way more lighter than what you absorb over here. If you are only going ahead with a wet on dry approach where you have applied the colors faster and you think that there would be less of opportunity in terms of the lighter values coming up, you can always go ahead with only one particular layer rather than adding more and more colors as I continue to do over you. Always always move your paper a lot so that the blending is absolutely natural, you can see the colors are moving. The blending is happening so naturally. Only the light from the moon will be seen in this case, and the rest remains as is. There will be some light, not that the whole of the place will be littered. You can leave it at this stage and let it dry off. Once it dries off, we are going to start out with the bottom part, and that bottom part is all about painting smaller trees. I have done it even in one of my earlier moon paintings, and this is a must in my moon paintings, this kind of one of the paintings will be of this kind. That's all I have learned. As I feel that this is simple, easy, it boosts up your confidence to a great extent, and you can nail all your future paintings. For every class, I try to keep initial a few paintings really simple so that even if you are a beginner, you can start out with that particular painting, moving on to the next and next. And as you build more and more confidence, the bonus lessons or the lessons in the last part should be the ones that you look forward to as they might be a bit more challenging for you, though a step by se approach is always helpful, and it can help you to nail any painting that you were doing. I have seen this in the past that we initially just think it's just in our mindset that this particular painting is difficult or that particular painting is difficult. But once we start doing that painting, there's so much learning that I have during the whole of the process that the final outcome really doesn't matter to me. I have the same feeling for gauche. It's not a medium that I work out with on a daily basis or regularly, but whenever I walk out with that medium, I try to pick up easy paintings initially and then move on to the difficult ones. I've applied a layer of water initially, and then I'm going over it to make some random pine trees. You can also go ahead in a similar way. You can see that I have taken my Escoda optimal brush. This has been with me for many years. I have used these brushes in the past so many classes. I have more than 51 classes available already on skill share. You can go ahead with it and try whatever you want to paint. There are a variety of subjects, water, flowers, gouache, name it, and you have it landscape, sunset, sunrise, whatnot. I think I have covered it all, whether it be Northern lights or even water reflection. Anything that you can think of is always always there. So feel free to try out anything of your choice. Yes, there might be different in terms of subjects, et cetera that I might have covered. You can look out for the ones that you and try them out. All I'm looking forward to is a creative journey that all of you can have. And I can keep enjoying whatever you are painting. Do tag me always on Instagram or just upload your projects over here. I would be more than happy to have a look at them. Always, always may not be sometimes I don't get so much time to give a feedback, but I do look up to all the projects. I do give I go through each one of them. Yes, there are days that I'm so busy that I may not be in a position to write of everything, but I try how maximum way possible to give most of the feedback possible. Okay, I'm still going ahead on the left side and adding some wa tries. You can see they are very much uneven, though they are concentrated towards the bottom part, but they will be uneven. I do not want to make it even. If I make it even, then the whole fun of actually working with watercolors go away. Using my flat brrush to just blend my um, you can see there's a boundary kind of thing that has happened as I was trying to work on the outside of the moon rather than working inside. This is also called as negative painting. As you guys. Oh, we do not work inside the subject. We go ahead and work outside the subject. This is one of the examples of negative painting, though you can have many different kind of negative paintings happening. I'm just picking up some of the extra water that is, um, happening over here because of the water that's there in the brush and then blending it, we will go ahead with some yellow and some white quash also you can go ahead with or the color that you have applied, majorly your neutral tint. You can see how the colors move into each other. They don't look like that it is a single gray shade or it is a single naples yellow shade. I'm so happy with the background colors. Hope you are also having a similar shade appearing on your paper. Do not forget to upload your projects, as I always say. And please, please do tag me on Instagram if you are painting along with me. I would be more than happy to share everything on my story so that others can also learn from you how well you have painted. And it's an experience even for the new folks, adding some of my neutro tint, as you can see over here. And this neutral tint looks very nice. Though the moon doesn't look up to the mark. I might I'm not sure if I would go ahead with some more gouache and add the whites or just add some more of my darker value of this neutral tint that you can see over here. It's good to go slow with every detail that you are doing at this stage, because the majority of the painting is already done. You do not need to touch upon every space on the moon, nor you have to work less, just a few dots here and there, and then it's done. Now it's time to add some more of my neutral tint, as I feel that the color has turned out very, very light compared to what I would like to add. You can see that the darker value I've just added on the left side, I'm not going to add it everywhere. Moon has a few craters and that can be well seen from the Earth too. We want to keep everything real and absolutely similar to the one that we observe. I'm not going to go ahead and change much in our observation power or whatever we see. I want to keep it as is. Let's remove the tape at an angle and have a fun look at the painting. I am super excited and happy to have a fun look at this painting. Believe me, it's easy but very, very soul satisfying kind of an experience. Whenever you are nailing one of the paintings, you just feel that you have done it. Even as a bigno, it's a great source of motivation, and all your confusion about watercolors goes away in this way. Oh 6. Project 2 - Blood Moon: The colors are paints gray, Opera, yellow, orange, ultramarine, and indigo. The second painting is also going to be equally simple, that we are going to add two or three colors for our sky. And then we are also going to add some mountains in a wet on wet way. It's going to be beautiful, believe me, that you need to have some patience, and let's paint along with me. I'm using the sing coin and going ahead, making one of the circle for the moon area, which I want to preserve over here. In none of these, I have used any masking fluid or anything like that. Though you can also use this masking fluid for preserving the spaces wherever it is needed. This is a great way to go ahead and preserve spaces. If you're someone who doesn't like to use masking fluid or doesn't have masking fluid, then you can use a similar approach that I have taken right away. This is a blood moon painting, and I'm super excited to paint this along with you. I have kept one simple mountain that is in the middle, but I have not pet it in the middle, as you can see. Also, this particular mod is on the left side. I will never keep my subjects in the middle. That's something I have learned over the years. The whole of the painting, the whole of the energy goes for a toss. If everything is focused in the middle, there is a rule of thumb, and it is basically going ahead and just, dividing your paper into nine equal halves. At the intersecting point are those points where you should have all the focus on. If you can do this, that is also called as the rule of thoughts, just go ahead, check out or do your research about rule of thoughts and you will get to know everything. There are one or two classes where I have also covered this rule of thoughts, you can go ahead and check them out. I'm using my compose opera and some opera to add on this part of the paper, or you can say in and around the moon, I will also use my tramarin above it and some amount of opera to blend my colors. You will see that I am not touching my mountains as of now. When it is semi wet kind of a situation, I will even touch my mountains. So be around. This is going to be very, very interesting. You will see how colors do not move a lot into each other if you can control the water, or you exactly know the water amount that's there on the paper. I continue to add more and more colors, though I see my compose opera is giving me some kind of breakage or even that you can say is more like there is some amount of mixing that has already happened with the ultrame because of which I'm getting some granulation. Breakage is nothing but all I feel is granulation, that is the colors are getting displaced or the pigments are getting displaced and they are not equally there on each and every part of the surface of the paper. That's what I usually see by granulation. There is a good effect that you can get through granulation. If you are someone who loves granulation, please go ahead and use it wherever you can. I'm using my ultramarine to see that particular granulation. Yes, I am also in love with granulation. I may not be using it very often in most of my paintings, but you see a lot for ultramarine and that really comes from the granulating effect that ultramarine brings in for me in any painting that I want to add it in. Once you have added the ultramarine and almost one third part of the paper, go ahead and add some amount of your indigo or paint scream. Now the colors will move into each other, and believe me, you cannot keep it only limited to a particular area. Some of them might move up, some of them may move down, so it all depends how the blending happens and you practically cannot control your colors or pigments once it is already on a surface, which has water in it, water is going to play its role, but all you can do while you choose your colors is to see how much they move. Now, what do I mean by how much they move? Just apply a clear layer of water and apply some colors on top of it. See if it is moving absolutely downwards, if it is moving absolutely upwards, whatever way it is going, is it just moving a lot? I know Milo Mission mole colors do not move a lot because of which you have a lot more space to play around. In case you're someone who loves big paintings, then you should go for colors that move around more like R colors. UR colors really move a lot, and for me, it is very difficult to control when I am using it on a smaller space like this. Going ahead with some of my beautiful shade or a mix of the ultramarine and the opera that we have applied. Opera are also of two kinds that I use. One is compost opera and one is normal opera. I am going ahead with some more of the colors towards the bottom area as you can observe a bit of yellow tint that you can apply. This gives a beautiful color that I really haven't seen much, but it just adds so much beauty to this painting is all I can say. Every time I look at any painting that I'm doing, I get astonished with the mixes that we get on the paper. Guys, believe me, the mixing on the palette is very different than mixing on the paper. I really love the mixing that happens on the paper, always, always. And that's what I look forward to. You can also move your paper a bit if you are not happy with the mixing or you're not sure of how the colors are getting mixed or if they are not getting mixed with each other. You can observe that there is a lot of water concentration that I have towards the bottom area. And now I could use a real touch of my ultramarine. You can see that even the color that was there for my sky, which is mainly my opera is moving into the ultramarne that I have added for my mountain. It is absolutely okay to go ahead with how it is appearing. You will see how I walk around with this. This is one of my favorite techniques that I've explored literally sometime back. It's not that I go ahead with the full painting at one go. I will take some time, add the colors, and slowly you will see how the magic happens. Okay, adding some more of our darker values towards the top part to just blend the colors. I do not want my pink to appear on the snow clad mountains to a great extent. That's one of the reasons. I am again touching a darker shade of ultramarine and then adding it on this mountain area. I have blended the colors, and now the colors are not moving much as you can see the colors already moved or the pink color, which we had has already moved. Now there is less that has to move. Go ahead with a darker shade. It can be neutral tint or paints gray and add it towards the bottom part of the bigger mountain area. You will see how slowly we develop this mountain. We are going ahead with only bit of it here and there and slowly we will add darker and darker values keeping the paper wet. We will work on it, and then the final painting will come before you. I am so excited to show it to you. Now, let's go ahead and work with more of our darker colors. As we progress, you will see that some or other lines I will keep adding or stool blending our colours and make the background mountains look different than the one that you see over here. Starting out with my darkest value, I mixed some amount of blue in it, and then some of my nutrtint. You can also go ahead with paint gray, nutrtint any color. If your indico is very dark, you can also go ahead with that. My paper is still wet because of which the colors are still moving a bit, and I want this soft effect. This is what I was saying that if you have water on your paper, there is a good amount of control that you can have on that water. And it can be used for adding all your colors. Slowly, steadily, my colors are moving a bit, but the top part is not so wet as you can see, only some of the part is bit wet and rest of the part is not. I am going ahead and adding a few drops of colors here and there, not every part I'm going to paint and make it dark. The idea of adding the darker values is just to create those ridges, as well as those smaller I would say trees, et cetera, that's there on, mountain or the rocky terrain that you see on a mountain. Anything that you can imagine can be worked out when you are adding some of the darker values in the areas wherever I think it is necessary, wherever you think it's necessary, that's most important. I will go ahead for my background mountain now and add a few drops of paint here and there. My focus is on the foreground mountain. I'm not going to go ahead and add everything on my background mountain. That's something which I really want to avoid some drops or some dots here and there, and that's it. We are then moving on to clearing out some of the spaces where I think it is necessary or just pick up the colours from a few of the areas, add a few dots here and there. We are going to make up the whole painting look more aesthetically beautiful. That's all there in my mind. Every time I paint, it's just that whole painting should come together in a way that it has blended together without any effort from urine. So effortless blending or effortless, harmonious colors moving into each other, making the painting look or come together is something that's there in my mind. Now my people has completely dried off and I can see some hardages that is happening. So more smaller dots and lines with the help of my thinnest brush that I'm going to add for this foreground mountain. This looks very organic, nice and pretty. We might have to work on the next path that is majorly the area where you have painted your mon, which is still like a negative painting that you have done. Many people even leave it at this stage just making it white, but this is the black mon that I'm going to paint, and I'm very happy and excited to show you how it turns out. This activity is something that I always say looks like a perfection for every artist. Like, they will add some colors into it. They will pick up some colours. Believe me, this part, even if you don't do, it is really not going to change the painting to a great extent. But it's what I have been doing pretty regularly for all my paintings. If something has turned out very good, I just wait and see, Oh, this looks pretty good, but I can make it even better. And that way, I go ahead and add something more into that painting. Sometimes it turns out well, and sometimes, believe me, it's a disaster. So yes, whenever you have this urge to paint more and more on your painting, leave it. Leave it as is because you've already nailed the painting. Believe me, you have nailed it. Again, I'm repeating the same process that we have done last time. I will go ahead and blend some of the portions of this area and make these hard edges look more softer for the moon pot. I will go ahead and apply some clear water for my mountain. I'm not sure if this is very much necessary, but I did the same, and now I'm going ahead and, again, blending my colors into the background. The paper has dried up. I cannot stay wet for the entire period of time, and hence we have to take an approach where you are going ahead and adding some of a water onto your paper and then paint over it because I wanted this soft approach. You will again see that I will pick up in some of the areas wherever it is necessary. Believe me, this step might not be very much necessary, but I did it as I wanted a perfect painting, though I don't know if it turned out to be that perfect, or it was perfect in the beginning, and then we did not make it so perfect. Overall, the final outcome is something that is very pleasing to my eyes, and that's why I love it. You can go ahead with this you may even leave it at this stage where it was and not touch it much because now it's becoming darker and darker. I might have to go ahead and again pick up the colors in a few of the areas wherever I think it is necessary. It is a process that I have learned works for me, but sometimes even backfires, as I did tell you. This is one of the examples where you can see that I am overworking, and then, believe me, I have to again pick up the colors and again, give it a touch that is important for completing this painting. Uh I would leave it now and not touch it much. At least the mountains, the mountains look fine. If I even need to add one or two drops here and there, or else the whole mountain will become dark that I really don't want, we will move on to the moon next, and we are going to start out with blood moon. And for this, of course, you have some yellow and some orangish color that you can add onto your painting. Once you have added this colour, go ahead with some red, naples yellow, mix. Adding it in some of the places, not adding it in the whole of this moon area. Continue to work on it. Use a smaller brush to work on this part, either a three size or a four size, whatever works well for you. For me, I'm using a DaVinci brush to actually finish this off. I'm taking some pinkish kind of colour, which looks more of a mix of my compose opera and then some of my quinacrodon oral whatever you have, the paper is still wet and we can go ahead and add one or two drops here and there. That's all. Don't think much. Go ahead, do your bit, and this is it. You are going to have a beautiful final outcome. Do do not worry. Blood moon is easy to paint. It's usually red in shade. One or two drops of brown also you can add for the darkest of the values if necessary. But the brown that you take is usually a red brown that I would prefer. If you don't have red brown, just mix a bit of red into your brown and you will get a red. Yes, you have fixes for everything that you actually want to work around with. If you don't have a particular color, try to make it, or if you don't have a particular shade, try to use something that is closer to it. Now I'm going and going ahead and picking a bit of colors from here and there. I told you that I do this very often in many of my paintings where I clean up some of the areas wherever I did add it initially, and then now I'm cleaning up later on. This cleaning and adding process is pretty much the same. It remains the same. Just adding the ridge, as you can see over here, a small thin line that would actually define my mountain in a better way. Not much of it. Now it's time to just cover up the space, make sure that your paper is dry. You are just only looking at the top part of the sky. I'm not going ahead and thinking about the moon or the bottom part, pick up some gouache on your brush and then just add some of the stars into your sky. The right one doesn't have any stars, but the left one does have a star, and I'm super happy super excited to actually show you this. One or two biggest stars wherever you need. That's it. Let it dry and have a fun look at it. 7. Project 3 - Moon & Clouds: Hello, guys. This is the third painting from the series. We will be working with a limited palette mostly, and I'm going to tell you how you are going to paint moon, clouds and sky together. This is one of my favorite topics that I have covered a lot of times earlier also. But again, this is something that I love to paint again and again and again. So let's go ahead, mix some of our colors like ultramarine, purple. And it will give me a mix that looks something in a way that you can see on the top part of my palette. Yes, you have to keep watching my palette, and I will explain you the colors. The exact size of the palette you might not be in a position to see, which is absolutely okay. Do not worry. I am continuously going to tell you about all the sheets that I'm going to use in my painting. You have to just mix it in a way that you get a color that looks closer to the one which I have used over here. Here comes one of my favorite parts that I'm going to explain you. Once you cover a larger area with your mob brush, you will see that this mob brush will allow the color to have a granulating effect. Now, many of you might think, why is this granulating effect coming? This granulating effect is majorly because of the fact that we have used some amount of purple and ultramarine blue to get a shade that looks similar to the one which you see over here. You can also use a bit of pink in it or else it is also the one, the color that I'm using is compost opera. Now, compost opera is a bit pinkish in shade and color, et cetera. The final outcome, which you observe over here is something that I completely, completely love. I'm using a wet on dry technique, and a lot of water is there on the paper. I go ahead with lot of water because I don't want my colors to get dried up, and that would lead to hard edges, which is something that I completely, completely avoid in most of my paintings, as it needs to be soft and nice and, um, blooming. Now, what does blooming mean altogether, that they flow altogether on their own. The flow is continuous, and I do not need to actually see much in terms of the flow of the paints, et cetera. Okay, continue with the painting part. Now, I will go ahead and make some more of my opera into it. This is not exactly opera. It is compose opera. You can also use carmine if you are not having compose opera with you. I'm mixing some amount of ultramarine also in few of the areas where I think it is necessary. The granulation effect, of course, is super amazing, and I'm super happy with how it is slowly turning out. I keep a lot of water. As you see, the top part of the area of course is becoming drier, so it might be a necessity that I have to add more and more colors so that they move easily on the entire part of the paper, and even the top area might need to get retouched a bit with the help of the ultramarine shade that we have over here. Purple will be formed automatically if you are adding some amount of pinks into it because pinks will, of course, give the purple that we need in this painting. Have a closer look at it. I am tilting my paper to a great extent. Tilting always helps people to get to, like, get to a place where it is automatically mixing the colors on its own. I do not need to do much in this case. I will go ahead with coral or else some amount of any of the other pinks that you have in your palette like compose opera, et cetera. Or else you can also mix a bit of the purple into the compose supero or the coral color that you have and get a shade that looks a bit purplish, not exactly fully purple. So it is a dark color because when moon comes up, usually it is the nighttime that we want to show. I want to depict the same over here also, and I love the granulation that you see on the paper right now. If you are starting out with watercolors, I think this is one of the best exercises that you can look forward to as the colors are moving into each other. Some of the places are darker, some of the places are lighter, and I am even clearing out a few of the spaces from where I think it is necessary. There are some white patches which has come up in the bottom area, and that's one of the reasons I am still blending it. I might have to go ahead with some more darker values if I want to make the top part of the sky a bit more darker. So those things do keep happening, but a seamless blend is something that I always always aim for in most of my paintings. And You can take a carmine kind of a sheet and start adding the clouds. The paper is still wet, and this is the perfect time to add any kind of colors that you want. I'm going ahead with simple clouds. They will be smaller and concentrated in the middle of the painting. I'm not going to add the clouds everywhere in the sky. This is something that I have learned over the years is not to have a real, um outcome where everything is concentrated in all the parts of the painting. So you have to choose your focal point, though I always say that you should not have your subject in the middle. This subject might be in the middle, but it's still a bit up compared to just being in the middle of the people. That way, I try to strike a balance. This is the major objective in this painting, which is painting the moon and hence, if we only concentrate on that, I guess it would be a good outcome, even for us. Simple painting, easy painting, just go with the flow, see the colors. There are only two to three shades that you would have seen me using over here, mostly a compost opera and ultramarine and a purple. You can also create the purple with ultramarine and compost opera. So I would leave that decision up to you. Keeping a purple by your side is always good. Rest. You can see how the colors are getting formed. I would add a bit of purple just below the carmine where I have added on this part of the painting. Then keeping it as is slowly going in and around it and adding the colors, you can see how the colors are being added on top of the paper. The paper is still wet, but it is in a state where there is not a lot of water on top of the paper. It is just a bit of water or you can say it is moist kind of a situation. It is not a situation where there is lots and lots of water on the paper, and that would make our work even more difficult. I really want my paper to stay, I would say wet, but moist. I mean, being wet may be puddles of water moving here and there, which is not the idea in this painting. We are going to keep the backgrounds, also being seen in between the clouds which we have painted. So all those is a very, very important idea. And when I really want to add some darker values into the painting. You can either make some amount of your indigo into it or paints gray. I would leave that decision up to you how you want to go ahead with. I have switched to a size four brush. This is the Vincy round brush for this part of the painting and continue to add more and more clouds here and there, not much just a bit. And then we are done with this part. You will see how I would add even some of the clouds in the middle of my moon yes. There is a lot that I have done practically in this particular painting, I would say, because I have not experimented that way earlier in any of my classes which I have given, but this particular class, I wanted to even experiment with that, how the clouds peep into the moon that we will be painting. So just be around. I will show you exactly how we do. I would go ahead and wet the moon a bit now. Now, if I don't add water on the moon area, then what will happen is I cannot paint a wet on wet kind of area. That's one of the reasons I have switched on to my flat brush to add that wetness into the circle that we did leave for our moon. I'm going ahead with very light neutral tint, which just looks more like watery mixture. It really doesn't have colour in it. We will slowly add the colours in few of the places where we need it, rest, I would leave it as is. I'm not going to add colours in every place. Believe me, less is always more in these paintings. And if you are someone who has already taken any of my classes, I always say ss is more. Less is more is a great way to go ahead with watercolors. Watercolors is a medium which never gives you an opportunity to come back or fix up your mistakes much. That's one of the reasons to go ahead and add less colors compared to more colors. I'm blending the sides and making it a bit softer with the help of my flat brush. This is an exercise which I have done even in the past, as you have seen, and we will be doing even in the current exercise azuls and the future exercises. It's a common thing to do for a soft effect. If you are someone who even like hard ditches, please go ahead and leave it as. No need to go and again change anything over there. Trying to add some more of my darker values in my nutriten shade that you can see and then blending it a bit. I'm not going to add a lot of darker colors or a lot of lighter colors. This is always there in my mind. Dots, et cetera, is always enough. My area of the moon is wet, and now is the time to add the wet clouds on top of it. You can see how the clouds are moving into this wet area of the moon, and I'm super, super happy with how the final outcome is coming up. The moon is being covered with the clouds a bit. We are picking up the colors with the help of our clean brush, wherever necessary, even add a bit of the mix from the clouds that we have used. That's it. I guess we have completely nailed this painting. I'm not going to touch it a lot here and there, just a bit. So that I can clean up or not have the hard edges, which sometimes does crop up in my paintings because it's all water, right? Water will have its own flow. I really can't control it to a great extent. I can only work along with it and make it my partner so that the final outcome looks very promising. Okay, I guess I'm fully satisfied. It's time to just give it a rest. I will see you in the next video where we will be working with the shadows of the moon in a particular building. 8. Project 4 - Illumination: This is the fourth painting in the series, and now is the time where I will go ahead with some of the sketching skills that I want you guys to pick up. You can use your scale. In this case. Do not worry. Just go with an A six size paper, and I can tell you you will mingle it completely. If you want to do it on a bit bigger size paper, like a A five, more than welcome to do it or even a bit smaller somewhere in between A five A six. Perfect. Go ahead, use your scale, make a few lines as I go ahead and do it. Just observe as I work this out. This is going to be a window, and the window opens up to the sky where there is moon and you can see a beautiful moonlit area in this particular room or the building room that you can observe. This was one of the very important paintings that I wanted to do in this series. It's black and white. You can use black or neutral tint. I love to use neutral tint for all my paintings as sometimes I even mix a bit of blue because I just feel that the final outcome is completely super impressive. Okay, continue with your sketching. The sketching is going to take around eight to 9 minutes. Do not worry, go with the floor. Don't think that it is around 20, 22 minutes. It is absolutely real time. You do not need to worry. Together, we are going to paint, and you are going to nail this painting. That's my guarantee. You just have to understand that this particular area is inside the building, and hence, there are a few lines which we need to add to depict this room altogether. Uh My window is done except a few window panes, which I would be adding. But before that, let's go ahead and add another line which is not exactly parallel, yet it is a bit tilted. Now, why do I add these lines? Now, a window when it opens up, usually there is a wall, and that wall I want to depict even over here. Wherever you think you are not exactly going ahead and adding a straight line, go ahead and work with your scale. I always say creativity is most important rather than using scale, not using scale. See, it's always good to work with your freehand, and there is no alternative of free hand drawing. But if you are someone who can work without your free hand or maybe you are not so good with free hand line drawing, it's absolutely okay. No need to worry. You will nail it in a few years. Believe me, when I myself started out with watercolors, I was not great with my sketching, and most of my paintings were for the landscape itself. Now, over the years, I like to paint animals. I like to paint windows. I like to paint urban sketching. Flowers and so many things I've started adding under my bed. It takes it takes actually few years to get all of it. So go with the flow, as I say, do not do not worry. It's all in our head. If you can take the noise out of your head, you can add all skill sets. Do not go with any word what anyone says. Just think that you will nail it and you're going to nail it. Okay, great. I think the room looks perfectly fine. It is more of a to D kind of a design. You can see it's a two point perspective. So all these lines will meet at the end on the right side outside the paper plane, of course. So it's not that we have it over here only. I am adding some darker values. I don't know why. I had to do it now, but yes, you can do it if you are someone who likes to add a bit more detail in your sketching. Over the years, I've realized that adding some bit of your darker values in your sketching is always always good. Now it's time to add the shadow on our floor. You will see that the light falls on the floor and it creates the shadow of the window on the floor. I am also doing the same in this particular painting. Creating some small lines first for my window panes, and now I will just erase these lines again, yes, it's erasers for your use. So go ahead, use it freely. As I said, do not worry, why I'm erasing, why it is getting darker, et cetera. Use a HB pencil or a two edge pencil. Don't use um, two B or three B, four B, six B kind of pencils because they are really, really dark and we don't want dark patches in any part of our painting. You will see I will take measurement with my fingers only. That's how I go ahead with any kind of measurement which I want to add in my painting. Once we have created the shadow on the floor, we will go ahead and add the moon. It's a small circle. I will keep it in white of the paper. That's all I'm going to use for this part of my painting. It's an absolute black and white painting. It's a monochrome painting. So go with whatever color is there. If you want to create it in blue, go with an indigo. If you want to create it in any of the black, go with mass black or lamp black. I'm creating it in colour, neutro int, particular shade of neutro tint. And I really like the neutro tint, and hence I'm using it for this painting. Our sketching is done. It's time to go with a flat wash. Now, this flat wash will be on everything that you see except the moon. So use a flat brush. This is a big flat brush which I am using for this size of a paper. It's basically a pool of colour which I have created. It's a very light tint of the neutral tint. Or you can say it's a very, very, I would say, less pigmented and more watery kind of a fluid that I'm using for this part of the painting. Once this is done, I will also add a layer of colors on the exterior, which is majorly leaving out the part of the window and going with only the walls. Now, it was not captured well in my painting when I was recording this lesson. But since it was just a flat wasah, so I thought that I should still go ahead with this painting and not cut it out from the whole of the series. Which I did initially think because I just wanted to keep it very simple, easy, and not complicated. You have every small step being explained, but it was just a layer of color that I added. And hence, I thought that you all know how to do flat washers. You have learned great with blending of colors, and also I don't need to go into detail every small detail over here. Okay, let's go ahead and add some more colors on the walls, and then we will just leave the part of the window and add a flat wash. The paper remains wet, and on top of it, we will go ahead with another layer of colors or create the texture that usually comes up in a house, which is old and there is some textured walls, et cetera, which has happened because of the wear and tear over the years. Uh, There is nothing much to explain at this stage. As you can see, I continue to just add colors unevenly now in various areas of the painting. Some of the areas are lighter, some of the areas are darker. That's how I go about it. Once this spot is dry, we will go ahead with another layer on the walls, which you can observe now. I have already added this particular part of the color on the walls as my storage or the camera completely stopped, but I did not want to take it out of my, um, lesson part as this is one of the very, very beautiful paintings which came out, and it's easy. That's one of the reasons I just thought that let it be you guys know flatwhs and you can easily do it. Now I'm picking up the colors from some of the areas where I think it should be lighter and value. The paper is still wet, and I am going ahead with my paints of the window. It's okay. When the paper is wet, you can surely work it out. You have to blend it with some clear water. Keep one source of water, which is very just for taking out paints from your brushes and one source of water, which is clear, or sometimes many people even like to keep a huge or a big, big jar of water so that that can be used multipurpose way. It doesn't go bad very quickly, and it's easy to work on smaller paintings and have two or three paintings being nailed before the water goes dirting. Let's now start out with some of the areas where I want to add the texture. It's absolutely okay. If your paper is semi dry, you might get a few textured kind of lines. I told you that the walls are not even at any point in time. So just see that and keep that in mind. Never worry about the fact that you're not getting that perfect one single color like a flat wash on the wall, it's okay. Just add different shades or different values of the same color in various parts of the wall, and you will see that automatically your painting is falling in place. I have added the darker value towards the top side. Now I will go with some clean water and just push it towards the bottom area. I don't have equal amount of pigments, or I work with the same kind of values in ach and every place. Some of the areas I add more, some of the areas I add less. So the values keep changing to a greater extent. Lighter, darker values do change that, and you will see a lot of difference in your final painting. I like to mix or change these values even on the paper. I don't keep various pos of colour on my palette. And hence, I really can't show you that even on my palette. I love to mix my colors on the paper, as I always always say, because that gives me so many different values even, which we usually can't absorb in our up in our palette mixing exercise. So yeah, there are two ways to always mix your colors. One is you mix on the paper, and one is you mix on the palette. I love mixing on the paper. That really gives me a great, great outcome, which I always, always look forward to. At least from my end, I just see that as a beautiful outcome. Now I have started painting my window part. I have switched my brush to size three or size four, depending on what size is available with you, the size of paper that you are using. So there are a lot of factors which are involved when you are deciding your brush. That's one of the reasons I never say that you have to go with this particular size of brush. It's for the paper size, which I am using. I prefer this kind of a brush. You might have a different preference, and that's absolutely okay. It all depends on what works best for you. And Watercolor is a very meditative process, and from here only, you will be in a position to see that. You are adding all the lines, et cetera, and it's a slow, as well as an iterative process where you keep adding the lines and the painting starts building up on its own. You don't need to do much. In this case, there are some of the areas on the wall which you can see that is not evenly painted. I am not even looking forward to an evenly painted wall. As I always say, it all depends. The more is your wear and tear, the better would be your painting. Time to add some more lines as you observe over here. And once these lines are done, we are going to go ahead with a final final work on the window, et cetera, because now it's the time of final detailing. There are four or 5 minutes more to go. We have to work on some of the darker and lighter values. The whole of the painting has come together. Believe me, it's just a few lines here and there, and that's it. Four or 5 minutes is nothing. Believe me, it's just that you will be refining your painting at this stage. There is no way you can go wrong. Don't overwork on this painting. The painting has turned out really well. You just need to play with your values a bit or make your lines, work out with your lines, et cetera, wherever needed, and that's it. We are going to have a simple, easy, yet very interesting painting by our side once this is over. Adding some textures on the wall and a few lines here and there. Some of the areas are darker, some of the areas are lighter, as we have done even earlier. Dry brush technique works very well at this stage, where, frankly, you are just using a very dry brush to create the textures on your wall and blending a few areas, creating more and more textures of the wall and letting it as I am already so happy with how this has turned out. I can't tell you that this painting is my heart completely. There is so much that we have done yet so little. There is less, which is more, as I always always all these paintings are simple. Believe me, all these six paintings are very, very simple. Even the last two paintings are very simple, which is a bonus lesson. They are just AFO size or which the time of the whole of the painting increases 15-20 minutes to around 30 to 40 minutes. That's the only challenge which you will see because you are working on a large sized paper. When you are working on a large sized paper, there are variety of factors which affect the um, whole of the painting. Like, one of the bonus lessons has a blending which came out amazing at the first. And I did retouch it, which I always say that don't do, don't do to each one of you, but I did it myself. I will show you the mistake that I created. And then, again, I had to go over it with a layer to make it completely even. Though that layer was very, very light and you really can't guess that I did retouch it or not have an outcome which was great. The final outcome looks absolutely perfect, but, yes, we could have had a outcome just in the first four rather than again retouching and changing it. Okay, I am just taking off the extra paints from wherever it is necessary and making it a bit more drier then we will add some of the other lines. I guess there were some dots or drops of paints on top of the moon, et cetera, and hence I have taken it off with the help of my tissue. Picking up some more colors with the help of my flat brush, you have seen me doing it even earlier, and I continue to do it in many of my paintings. For every class, you will see me doing it very often. Now, once I have started lifting my colors from various places, I just feel that it works so well. Not only for this, it works well, even for the clouds. Yes, there will be a cloud class where you would be learning how to lift your colors and how to paint efficiently. So that's also there in my mind, which I will come up with, but it will take some time too in this so continue with your lines as I'm doing and extending over here. This is an absolute dry paper. So go with the floor, have just use the brush which you are most comfortable with because the brush that you are most comfortable with will give you a result, absolute you're going to nail that practically. That particular part, you're going to nail it. I always use this optimal brush because I'm very comfortable with this brush. The final outcome I feel comes out well with this brush. Let's just continue working on it, and then we will have outcome, which is up to our liking. Okay, great. Um, I guess, I will not touch it anymore and leave it to dry off. Let's move on to our next painting now. 9. Project 5 - Winter Evening : Hi, guys. This is the first painting from the series, and I'm excited to tell you that we will be painting pines, moons and the early evening kind of view over here. Now, what is an early evening view? We will be having darker colours of the sky, but in very, um, I would say light way, or you can say the values would be really light as we are going to add the moon, which should be also seen. These pines will be done in a wet on wet method. You will see how we work this out. Some of the portions would be darker and lighter. They are completely snow clouded and hence I am making some random shapes and sizes for making this pine tree. Of course, this particular pine tree is in the foreground and another one would be in the background. The rest of it would be majorly the background, colors that we will be adding in different values, et cetera, which might show the faraway trees that are there. Continue with the drawing. The top part when you are starting with the drawing, it is majorly smaller, smaller piece and parts that we had, whereas as you go towards the bottom, these circle or you can say not so circular kind of a shape and size will become a bit bigger in size because each of these pine tree leaves that you see is covered with snow and it is so much snow laden that we practically cannot see the pine tree leaves at all. Only some bit of it would be seen as a shadow. We were at that kind of a shadow, also. This is my favorite. You have done this in one of my audio classes. Last year, where we were painting this snow. I would be using the same technique even over in this painting, though the paintings are different. But having said that, if you want to attempt it, see the right hand corner, you will see the exact name of the class, et cetera, where you can go and just take this particular painting. There are about 14 paintings in the class, so yeah, feel free to go ahead and give it a try. Now it's time to make the horizon line and start with the background or pine tree. Of course, the background pine tree would be way more smaller than what we have in the foreground. Always remember the perspective works, whatever is far away from your eye level will be smaller in size, and whatever is closer to your eye level will be larger in size. And if you can keep this in mind, I think you will be in a position to nail most of the paintings that you do. Sketching a pine tree is practically a very iterative process. What you have done initially will be repeated again for the background pine tree. I could be working in a similar way. There will be no change in terms of pine trees or the snow clad leaves that we are going to add on this particular pine tree. So continue in the same process, and once done, just add a oval kind of like this is an oval structure that I add on the paper, and once that ov shape is done, we will go ahead and start with a coin. Now, coin is majorly going to tell you where exactly I want to place my moon. Now, this particular radio of the moon is not exactly in the middle, a bit tilted towards the left part. You can also have a smaller moon. I would leave that decision up to you. I am not going inside the moon. I will go in and around the moon, I'm not masking it. If you are someone who has masking fluid with it, please go ahead and mask your moon before you start with your painting. In case you want your yellows to be subtle, you should go ahead with naples yellow and purple. I practically choose naples yellow and purple. Naples yellow also doesn't react with the blue, and hence you will never get the green or the dirty mixtures, which you usually get with other, I mean, shades of yellow when you use it with either a purple or a blue, et cetera. Make sure that you go in and around it. This is a wet on dry method that I am using right now for this painting. You can also go ahead with wet on wet method. I would leave that decision up to you as I did tell you even earlier, the peak size is not huge because of which I can really work pretty easily, even if I am doing a wet on wet method or a wet on dry method, whichever is preferable with you, wet on dry also works well. Wet on wet anyways works well, even on a bigger paper or on a smaller paper. Let's go ahead and place a small tape below my paper or this board because I want the paper to be tilted and I want gravity to do its work so that the colors can automatically blend with each other with less effort from mind. I always say this that blending should not be like you are adding a lot of effort, and blending should come very naturally. And that is when I would say that even if you were a big nerve, or medium level artist or whatever be the case, but you continue to grow. You continue to grow only with very simple tips and tricks and techniques that you learn in the process of watercolors. Time to add a bit of pink. This can be even carmine. I'm using compose opera and then blending with some purple. You will see how the colors blend into each other. Anyways, your pink will not react again with the naples yellow that you have applied already on the paper. Just in and around the place where there is moon, I have kept a bit of yellow. Rest, most of the places are quite dark. I'm not using very pigmented mixes because of which you will not find them absolutely dark dark. But still, yes, the colors are not as light as what you would see during the day, et cetera. I did start blending my colors so even from the middle part of the horizon line after I was done with the sky, and then while I was ending towards the bottom area, I did apply some of my ultramarine. Ultramarine is the blue sheet which I am using for this. You can also go ahead with bar Blue or any of the other blues like donthrineblue, whichever works best for you. Cleaning out the area where I want to make my pine that is snow cladded. So just go ahead and clean up those areas. As it is necessary to clean up the area, I cannot keep the same color of the sky in this particular area. It has to be lighter as it is completely drenched in snow, and we want to even show the same in our painting. Blend the colors wherever it is necessary, your paper is still wet. You can see for eight to 10 minutes a 300 GSM Arches paper can support you to paint in all the conditions possible. This particular painting was done in November and the class is getting released now. But during that time, of course, the humidity condition did change to a great extent, and it was almost winter. So, yes, I would say that, that was the climate did allow me to really have a good time and did allow me with a lot of time to work on my paper. Even if it is dry climate or even if it is very, very humid where you have to switch on your AC, et cetera, I think still it gives seven to 8 minutes for sure. You can work on paper. Continue to just add a few more shades of pink wherever you think it's necessary. For me, it is necessary towards the top part. I want to iterate the same colors from the bottom to the top. I I will add some more yellow on the outside part of the moon, as you can see over here and then blend it with the colors that are already existing. I did apply some amount of blue even on the top part of the sky, absorb and work around it as I am doing and again take off all the colors that we have applied on top of this pine tree. I usually wash my brush and then start picking up my colors. With the help of flat brush, round brush, whatever is available, go ahead and use a damp brush to remove all your colors from the pine tree. Okay, great. I guess this is an iterative process and you would be in a position to go ahead and work it on your own. We will start working on the pine tree next. I The bottom part needs some blue because it is really, really light and I might go ahead and add a bit of blue in it. It would be ultramarine blue, which is already there on the palette. I will mix a bit more and start adding it. You will see it will go lighter and lighter as I go a bit up, I'm not going to add any of my darker values over here, blend it with some clear water, and this is how it works now. I will just think a bit before picking up any of the other colors. This is basically the background trees which I want to paint. It is with the same shades that I did apply even for my top part of the sky, just make does and you can actually go with a smaller brush because that would allow you to restrict the colors in and around the horizon line only rather than expanding towards the bottom area. Cleaning up the edges in and around the horizon line wherever it is necessary, you can see how I work through it with the help of my flat brush. I would apply one more layer of darker value on top of this area, which is majorly for my background bushes. Once that part is done, let's go ahead and see how the painting has turned out. I think a bit of it will work even for our foregrounds, some dry branches, et cetera, that I plan to add. And even the oval structure that you did see order I want to go ahead and apply some darker values in that particular part. The paper is too wet. It is practically moist at this stage, which is because of this particular reason because of this particular reason, of course, the colors are not moving a lot, and that gives us a lot more advantage. This particular water control, you might have to experiment and see, there should not be any puddles before you work this out. It's time to work on our foreground pine tree. We will start with a very, very light wash of your pupu. And then we will extend it even towards the top and the bottom, we continue to work around with it, extend it, and make way for this snow clad pine tree, which this is a flat wash, but only in the areas which we did mark initially, we are not going to go beyond that. We will work on this. And once our PPO is wet, we are going to go ahead and even at a very dark value. Towards the bottom side of these round or circular shapes which we did initially. I will show you how we work this out. Do not worry. Just go with a very thin brush for that particular work, and it should be dry enough. Like, there shouldn't be a lot of water on that particular dry brush which you are using for adding the darkest value. I'm using a thin brush, as you can see over here and slowly extending. The paper is still wet, which allows the colors to move a bit. I would say this is not wet. This is a moist condition. As I always always say, moist is very different than being wet altogether. The colors are not moving a lot, only moving to a smaller extent, as you can see over here. I continue to paint over the edges as you see over here, not completely taking over the entire space of the tree. If your paper is not wet or this particular area of the tree is not wet, then you might have to go over with a bit of clear water but not puddles. Always, always remember this particular painting is not about petals. It's about keeping your paper moist. I might have to go over it, and then, again, just see if the colors I don't think that the colors are moving anymore, yes. So it is time for some clear water or the color that we did at Odio to go over all the part of my pine tree and then start painting over it. I am so excited to give you this lesson, though I have already given a lesson, which is similar to this one, as I did mention Audio, but still going over it again, gives a lot more confidence, even to me. I don't throw everyday paint pines, or I don't everyday go ahead and work on all my paintings which look similar to the one that you see over here. You might have to watch this pine one more time and see if you want to add one or two more snow clad, like, pine, um stems here and there. So that part, of course, can be seen. We'll see how we work that out because the middle portion just seems to me a bit odd. That's the reason. Anyways, um, if it works out, let it be as is. Adding colour on my background pines, the same wash that we did for our foreground pines. You can also go ahead with a lighter wash. I will leave that decision up to you. Time to add the darker values again. We will use the same process for the background pine as we did for our foreground pine. Touch in a few areas and leave it one or two dots, one or two lines, and that's it. Less is more in this case. So go with that idea in your mind and don't touch it everywhere, then the colors will move a lot on top of the pine, which we really don't want in this painting. I will start working for my foreground pine. I want to show this particular area of my pine just under the pine a bit in a bit better way. And I'm adding, of course, darker value over here and then blending it with my flat brush. Now, flat brush is, of course, damp, and that's one of the ways I always keep a control. Adding one or two lines, that's it. The paper is not wet. You can see these are kind of hardages. So it's time to add some of the dry plants over here. We will even do that. Nothing much difficult. It's just that it takes a bit of time to work through the entire process. Y I'm pretty happy with how things are moving on. At this stage. We will add one or two drops and then small small lines. You can change your brush or else, go ahead with the same brush, but with less paints, take off all the extra paints and start adding a few lines for the dry plants that I did tell you earlier. You can also go ahead with a thin brush of any of the other sizes. This is, of course, a squadooptimo brush. I did tell you even earlier that this brush has been with me for many years now, and it's been one of very good brushes that I've used to date. But then if you don't have anything of this type, go ahead and use any of the other thin brushes that's available with you. Now it's time to go ahead and just blend a bit, that is make the edges more softer for this particular mod and then start adding colors inside the moon. It would be mostly the yellow color that I'm going to add and some bit of maybe orange, et cetera. It all depends on the mood you know to a greater extent. Okay, first, take off all the extra water as I'm doing and trying to make it more softer. These kind of things add a lot of, I would say, beauty to your painting, and then keep adding more and more yellow. This can be any yellow of your choice. No particular yellow that I have in mind, whatever is on your palette, go ahead with it. I think I'm using a mix of my Indian yellow and some amount of my Naples yellow that I already had going with either a red or an orange kind of a combination, keeping it more subtle, not adding lots and lots of colors at this stage. I might add a bit or blend it a bit more as we go towards the right and make it more circular in shape and size. Some more dots here and there, and then I guess I'm good. I'm pretty happy with how it has turned out. We will move on to our next painting after this. It's also a very, very interesting painting. So get along with me and let's paint that out. A In between all this, I hope you are liking the class. Yes, there is a good amount of blending and all that I'm teaching, but the variety of subjects that I have tried to cover hopefully does satisfy your creative goals. I 10. Project 6 - Lighthouse View: Finally, we are on to our last painting, and this is going to be very exciting for us. The last one is, of course, a bit different than what we have done till now. This one is one of my favorite subjects to work on, and it is majorly something close to urban sketching. Of course, not exactly urban sketching. We would be loosely drawing a tower and this tower is basically a lighthouse. You can use a scale for this, or else also go ahead with direct free hand line drawing. I would leave that decision up to you. It's all about being more comfortable. If you are more comfortable with the free hand line drawing, please go ahead with free hand line drawing for completing this sketching part. I am just dividing my whole of the tower into two equal halves, as you can see. I have not added the tower in the middle. I have already placed it on the left side and on the right hand side, I would be drawing my moon. Now, the size of the moon would be bigger in this case, and you will see how we would be painting the sky. The sky is also going to be dark, but I'm not adding any stars as I want the focus to be laid only on the moon and this easy to go kind of lighthouse that we will be drawing and adding in this painting. For my lighthouse, I'm going ahead and adding a few rectangular boxes, as you can see over here. Now, the rectangular boxes are very easy. Some of them are more longer, some of them are shorter, some of them are thinner, broader. You just need to alter the sizes. For all the sketches, you will find them very easy, as I am a person who has learned the whole skill set of sketching, drawing, painting on my own. And watching various other artists, too. I will not deny that the whole time is always about learning and you may learn from artists, you may learn from normal people. Your life is completely your learning. You continue to learn every day, you continue to watch, you continue to learn. And hence, this particular tower that we are adding is also about learning something that I am exceptionally proud of. It's soft and the soft effect we will get in a wet on wet method. How we get it is something that I really want to show you for everyone who love the flow of watercolors and allow the watercolors to do their own magic rather than trying to control it. This is all about that. It is all about letting the flow happen, letting a continuous flow happen, letting your creativity flow, as well as allow the watercolors to do their own magic. In my first layer of sketching, I usually go ahead with very light shade of my pencil once I am a bit okay with the fact that, yes, we are landing at something that I also want to do or we are landing at a drawing that can be further finalized. I go ahead with a darker value of the pencil. I practically use the same pencil for doing it. You can go ahead with any other pencil of your choice or whatever is available that decision, also, I would leave that up to only that you fungalise your sketch at a second stage of your drawing rather than it being the first stage. In the first stage, you just add a few light lines for your drawing, which will further change into a final painting. Let us now go ahead and make the moon. I would use the middle part of this particular tape, which I have used even for taping down my paper. I usually use these kind of shapes and sizes that I see in and around me for even my sketching purposes. I think the moon was smaller, and I wanted it a bit bigger, so I will go with the outside part of my tape to get a circular shape and size for my moon. Uh, this is very exciting for me, as we are almost done with the sketching, there is very less time that we did take for our sketching, and it's time to just think that what we want to go ahead with the colors, et cetera. Though this particular class where I am completely guiding you but I will tell you exactly the process I think. I first go ahead with a sketching that I have in my mind, and then I think about the colors that will suit it much. Even try to see the colors on a small piece of paper, so that if you're using two colors, three colors, the blending should be clear, et cetera, all of them put together. It comes to a point where I start loving everything that we paint in this, um, particular painting. You can also do a small thumbnail sketch for yourself. Thumbnail sketches are very, very good and they are very helpful in your final painting. I have done it in the past, and I still do it. Otherwise, what happens is sometimes you go ahead and paint one single painting two times or three times. And this I have started avoiding very recently, where I go ahead with a small thumbnail sketch, see how it works out, and then go ahead with a final full painting. I'm using my ultramarine. Ultramarine is one of my favorite colors you have seen in the past, and currently also it is my favorite. I'm going over the entire part. I'm not thinking about, uh this whole tower part, just go ahead with it. Leave out your smaller part of the circle that is majorly your moon. So you have to leave out your moon. If it goes inside the moon, then we will not get the yellow and the grease that we need. Though your yellow doesn't react much, but still, let's keep it as is, and let's not go ahead with any of the other parts. I want to create the light in this middle part of my tower. Hence, I am leaving that part. This is, again, wet on dry method. We are not going ahead with any wet on wet method in this case, but I'm using a lot of water. My brush also holds a lot of water. If you are looking for brushes which can hold a lot of water, Escoda, the Vince are two major brands that I have been using in my past for many years. And still I'm using it. And even if you want to have the same kind of approach for your round brushes too, I think silver black velvet can actually hold gallons of water in their brushes. So go ahead, reach out to any of the stationaries where you can get these brushes, and I'm pretty sure about it, you will nail all your paintings. And, you know, it's also about an experience. So when you have a good experience with your brushes, you exactly know that, yes, your painting is going to turn out well. Initially, when I go ahead with my first layer, it's usually lighter. You all know that I never go ahead with a very dark layer in the first go. But when I am doing a second layer, I try to go ahead with a darker layer. By mistake, I did apply the color even in the white area. Now I have to go ahead, I think, even with the tissue to clear that out, it will not get cleared on its own. So do keep this in mind. It sometimes does happen. It sometimes happens even with me. We just fix it on the go. Yes, there are a lot of things that we can fix, but having said that, watercolor gives us less opportunity to fix any kind of mistakes that we do in the process. And hence, it becomes very important to continue working through it whenever you are like, working working very carefully, more than working with an understanding. It's all about being careful to not touch the areas where we want to keep the white of the paper. White of the paper is the best thing that I think has happened to me, how I have used the white of the paper really defines my painting to a great extent. Going ahead with my indigo, or you can even use pins cream, mix a bit of Bnciena into it and add it towards the bottom media. You can see the Bern siena and the ultramarine or Pains gray, whatever you are taking over here will mix with each other just on the paper. Why on the paper is something that you must understand. If the colors move on the paper, what happens is they will move on their own. They will create various other values you might not have thought about altogether. Whereas if you do it on the palette, you will not get the opportunity to actually see the beautiful outcome which happens on its own. The pain's gray, you can see over here has mixed with the burn sienna and given various shades. I will add some more of my burned sienna for this part of the bottom area. You will see how we continue to work through it. I do always move my people, and this is possible because I did stick it to my acrylic board. You can use any board of your choice and stick it so that it's easier, even for you to move your colors. And seamlessly, it blends with each other, where you are doing less work and the colors are automatically doing the work that is needed by them. And, you know, watercolors can do a lot of work for you, so let them work on their own. Do not try to control them. You can partner with this medium, as I always say. Now I'm applying my brown colour in the middle part of this tower area, going ahead and adding it on a wet paper. This is not wet. Exactly, this is moist. Again, the same thing that I did tell you Odio from the Pines painting. That's one of the reasons these two paintings are given in the last because we are mostly working wet on moist. Ooh. I will be washing my brush and picking up the colors from the area where there is window, though you can do this or else just go ahead and even use your tissue to pick up the colors. I love to use my brush to do it. You can use a round brush. You can use a flat brush. You can also use a tissue. These are the things which can help you to lift your colors. Secondly, if you are lifting your colors, make sure that your colors are not so I would say they do not have the ability to have lots and lots of stainss in it. Now, why stainss I say? Because if they are really staining, what happens in the process is that you will not be in a position to take off the, the background stain. Like, currently, I have very, very light tint of blue that is still there. But rest, all the blue, browns, whatever we had has been taken off. Uh, this is a particular way of going ahead with your painting where you have or this particular thing is actually important if you are working with artist red colors. Artist red colours are much less staining compared to other set of colors that you can buy in the market. And artist red colors also requires less number of layers compared to student red colors that's available in the market. While student red color is not so good, I have told it year or, and again, I treated Student grade color has three components in it. One is pigment, one is binder, and another is filler. If you are working with binder and more of filler in it, what happens that your color becomes lighter and lighter and there are many layers that you need. Whereas, if you are working with artist good quality artist red colors, they usually have binder and pigments only in it, which gives you a lot more opportunity to play around with, and it helps you to work in way more or less layers. Over here, I'm introducing the darker value even in the tower area or the lighthouse area, as you can see. Some of the area I'm keeping lighter on the side where there is my moon, I'm keeping light, and the other side, I'm trying to put a darker value. This usually happens if you are working with any of the light source on one side and any of the other part, which is on the shadow side will be more darker. Cleaning up my edges a bit with the help of my flat brush. I will be using a thin brush now to add a line as you see over here. Now, this is a brush. Of course, you guys know it's called optimo. It has got a nice tip, but these kind of brushes are now available even with Vinci or other brands. So please go ahead. Whatever brand is available, you can use it. I'm trying to add one or two more lines. This is still wet, and I can work around on the wet surface itself. I have a brown patch in the middle and really, I don't care. Maybe I can fix it as we progress, but I may not also fix it. So accept whatever you get in a painting. If you are happy with whatever you get and pretty sure about it, you are going to nail a painting because it's automatically coming up. You don't have any hand in it. I'm trying to add one or two darker dots here and there, as well as go ahead with some of my darker bushes in the bottom area. One or two dots, the paper is still wet and hence they will move. I do not need to do much work in this case. I will take off all the extra colors from the tip of my brush with the help of a tissue, as you can see over here and then go ahead with any lines that I want to create. This is easy, yet it is only possible if you understand the process that less is more. So less colours on your brush, less water on your brush can also give you a great result. Grit results are not practically made with lots and lots of pigment usage. It's only with less pigment and more of water that you create good outcomes in a watercolor painting. Water comes ahead of color, and hence you know that watercolor is mostly made out of water only. There is less of pigment work that is needed. It's more of waterwor that's needed. I'm adding a few lines in the light area. You will see that I'm not occupying each and every space. Some of the part is a bit broken, and that's absolutely okay. Just make it broken a bit here and there, and that will show that the light is glowing from this tower. Once the paper dries up, the colors, of course, will become way more lighter. That's expected, and it's absolutely fine if your colors are also getting lighter and lighter. I'm picking up the colors because the whole of the paper has gone really dark compared to what I was expecting. And hence, some of the areas need to be a bit more lighter, and then only we will be in a position to add one or two dry branches for this bottom part. Creating simple windows, as you see over here, there is no particular rule that's there in my mind. It's just a bit of outline. I'm breaking it in a few spaces and not giving an exact outline just like we do in a pen or a pencil sketch. Let us now start creating the bushes for the bottom area. It is basically dry lines. As you see, the dry lines are easy to create. Use the tip of your brush to create these dry lines. It's more of an iterative process. So do not be tired, and it's very, very easy to do. You start, and then you keep adding these lines at regular intervals. No I should be spontaneous, not in any particular manner or in any particular way, just the way when you see a tree that is there in the forest is never in any line. Whereas the planted trees that we plant in any area is always in line or in a particular manner, they are organized. We don't want these bushes also to be organized. It should be absolutely random. I'm adding a bit light colo blue in the area where it is my tower or light because some amount of sky is also seen, right? It cannot be only light light, so I've added a very light layer, and then around the borders, I've added a bit darker colour of blue. That's how I go about it. These are done with very less colors. Again, a limited palette exercise, you do not need to have lots and lots of colors. Three colors of four Clos is quite enough. You can also use ultramarine Bern sienna and indigo to complete the whole of the painting or paint scrap whatever you feel is good for yourself. Use those. And then, of course, for the moon, we have to go ahead with other shades. It can be also done with a neutral tint or if you're even using a dark value of pains gray, it can work. But I wanted to have a bit of yellow in it. Yellow means naples yellow. Of course, not the other yellow that works best in a blood moon kind of situation, of course, not. You can see how light the wash is, and then we'll go ahead with a bit more darker value here and there, one or two dots, touching it. And then, again, going ahead with our another shade of neutral tint. I'm very excited about neutral tint or paints gray, whatever works best for you. This is a painting that I really like, and I hope you are also liking it to the full. If you have liked all the six exercise and painting along with me, please do upload the class projects in the project gallery. I'm eagerly waiting to have a look at each one of them. Secondly, there are two beautiful bonus lessons which are going to come up next. So once you are done with these first six exercises, wait for the bonus lessons, do not think that we are not going to work on bigger paper. Now since that is an EO sized paper, whatever painting you could do within the last 15, 20 or 30 minutes, I mean, it's usually 15 to 20 minutes. Will get extended, and it would be around 30 to 40 minutes. That's the only change which is going to happen. Rest, everything is going to stay the same. Hence, go ahead and feel absolutely confident when you work through this class. I will meet you very soon with my bonus lessons, and then we are going to end this class on a very, very high note. Et your peer dry off after this and do not continue to work more. Leave it at this stage. We don't want to overwork through this painting. Once done, remove the tape at an angle and have a fun look at the paintings. I mean, both the paintings. 11. Bonus Lesson 1 - Shining Moon: Let's go ahead and have a look at all the colors which we are going to use in this painting. The first is naples yellow. Second is your quinacrodon coral. The third would be ultramarine. The fourth would be paint gray, or you can also use indigo, and the last is burned sienna. Let's start out by applying a clear layer of water on our paper. This is an A four size paper. If you are someone who hasn't worked on A four size, still be very confident. This is going to be a very, very easy painting. You do not need to worry. Just go ahead and start applying the colors of yellow and quinacrodon coral, as you see me doing over here. I'm going towards the bottom part and applying it. I would be using silver brush or else you can also go ahead with any kind of mop brush exactly the way you see over here. Silver brushes or mop brushes can hold a lot of water, and it would be easier for us to apply the colors very quickly on top of the paper or else the paper might get dried off. I'm going ahead with my ultramarine color. This is the ultramarine blue. You can also squeeze out fresh paints from your tube if you are not using the colors from the palette as I do. I usually squeeze out my paint into the palette and then use it from the palette whenever I need it. I will go ahead with some more of my quin acrodoncoro in between, as you see, and then ultramarine and yellow. So this current part is not exactly what we are going to paint or how the sky is going to look. Never, ever lose your patience at this stage. And I have seen many even myself doing it when I was starting out with watercolors. If something just go wrong in the initial stages, I would give up with that painting, which has stopped completely as I have moved on with my years of watercolors. And whatever be the painting, I usually like to finish it off and then move on to my next. And every time I finish a painting, I learn something new. I have stopped calling any of these paintings my failures. They're mostly my learnings. The days which are good, of course, I create something that's exceptionally beautiful. Now going ahead with some more of my ultramarine and applying it towards the top area. The ultramarine is a color which has a lot of granulation, and you should also take that into account that this would be granulating. If you are someone who doesn't like much of granulation, you can also go ahead with cobarblu. Kobal blue is an alternative color that can be used, and it would look really nice on the whole of the painting. I'm going ahead with my paints gray and just trying to blend my colors. I do use or take the support of my board that really helps me to apply the colors pretty evenly, and the gravitational pull can help the colors to move in on its own with the help of the water. Picking up some more ultramarine color and then applying it, you will see how I will create a mistake because of my overwork for the sky area, and then again, rework on it to get a perfect plan. So yes, even for watercolors, it's not that your watercolors are not at all forgiving. Having said that, the white of the paper might not be so much visible if you are going ahead in layers. Whereas if you can create something in the first row, it's easier. The confidence is usually higher. You can go ahead with your perfect blending, then perfect, I would say, mixing of colors on the paper. All of it comes together very quickly. I was initially very happy with how it turned out. I thought, within four or 5 minutes, I have failed my sky and actually, I did. But then something happened. I continuously overworked on this painting and had to again go over it in layers to create one more sky, which looks exactly the same what we have created now. But, yeah, I mean, if you continuously work on anything, believe me, the one that you have created may not be the exact outcome. And you might get an outcome that looks even better. I will not deny I have got that in many of my audio cases. But yes, maybe the first time beauty goes away in that. And the whole fun of just enjoying the process sometimes does go away, but do it for your own sake because, yes, there will be mistakes that you will create in any medium. Whether it be watercolors, gauche, oils, et cetera, Oils give you a lot more opportunity. Your gauche also gives you a lot more opportunity, and there is a lot less opportunity with watercolors, having said that, but still there is opportunity, and I would like to show you that as we move forward. You can see the colors are moving from the right towards the left. And there are a few lines that you also see. Do not worry if it doesn't get blended. It really doesn't matter with the whole final outcome of our painting. I did apply some water on the bottom part of the painting, and now I'm going ahead with my coral color. You can see the bottom area has a lot of beautiful coral and yellow mixes. This coral and yellow mix looks amazing together. But since I am retouching it every time, so what happens is I might get a few lines, and those are usually the hardages many of you complain to me that when we try to blend blending doesn't happen naturally or the blending doesn't come up well. That's what I also wanted to highlight. Even for me, it doesn't happen, the blending doesn't go up well. These things do happen in any watercolor journey, so do not think much when it has happened to you. I would say, at this moment, you should not retouch exactly the way I am doing. I did it. And yes, then I had to practically again go over the entire pot, entire sky area, and apply the colors again. First five to 6 minutes are always always crucial and it gives you a great outcome. Let it be. No need to do anything more. I'm trying to blend and pull my colors with the help of my dry brush, but believe me, it would be not of much help. I might have to go head over the entire area again, as you see over here with a clear layer of water and then apply the colors. This has been the case earlier, too. I have done this in the past, and I'm again doing it now. These things do happen. If you are working or dappling with this any medium, I would say this is bound to happen. So do not fear, again, something like this. Why is it happening or how it is happening? I experienced artists. I mean, every experienced artist has also gone through it as quite a few number of years I have in my experience, but still, I am going through it till now, so you know, yes, these things do happen. Again, it's time to go over the entire area and redo the sky because I have got a big blob of water on top of the sky, and it's really not going to help us anyway going through patches and all. Let's go over the sky and let's create it again. This is a process, and this process needs to be followed. So let's do it. You continue to just have a look at how I progress. If your first sky has come out, well, please do not go ahead and retouch it exactly the way I am doing. This is a process where I'm showing you how you can fix anything that has gone wrong. Redoing my sky with my corals, then my yellow as well as tro Marine. And Moving my both so that colors can blend together with each other and the mixing happens on its own rather than I go ahead and do it for this painting. Once you have outcome that looks similar to the one which I have on my paper right now, believe me, you don't need to work anymore. This is the moment you should give up on your brush, leave your brush, and let this paper dry off till you can, again, start painting over it with a next clear. You can see a beautiful sky outcome, and we will leave it till this. Go ahead with one of your pencil sketches at this moment. I did not do any pencil sketch when I started out with my watercolors. Um it was just my layer one where we were going ahead and just adding the background sky. This is a night sky, of course, you know, and that's one of the reasons there are a lot of darker values that we have added rather than only adding some of our lighter values. Now it's time to add fence and some ground area. Though I'm not going to add lots and lots of things in this painting. Believe me, it itself will look very beautiful and pretty once we are done with. Going ahead with one of my trees over here and then starting out with our watercolor part, you will see that this is mostly the darker value that we are adding and hence, you do not need to worry. Just that the tree will take some good amount of time, and that's one of the reasons all of the painting takes its own time to get together, and then we can only have a outcome accordingly. Adding some of the branches just as a guideline, though you can't see it at this stage, but you will be in a position to see it as we progress going ahead with some of my Bnciena as you can see, I am just adding it towards the bottom area. We will also mix some amount of ultramarine orals. You can also go ahead with pains gray to get theta values as we reach the absolute bottom area. Mix the ultramarine to get the bottom part in absolute darker values as you see over here. And then there would be some of the plattering. Of course, those plattering will be with the clear water, and you would really see that the final painting has turned out very pretty. I would use this dry brush technique for creating my grasses. Yes, this is a great way to create your grasses, take off all the extra water from your brush and then start adding this kind of lines, as you see over here, which I am doing currently. It's an easy way to create your grasses, and again, you might have to go with some of your colors. That is your Bn sienna to this bottom area because you see some part has gone really light and we don't want this lighter value. I'm again drawing some grasses just to add some mod number of lines over here, because some of them are darker and lighter, and I don't want that kind of difference in the blending of these grasses, like background, foreground, and all of it. It's simple. And I want to keep it really simple just going ahead with some of my splattering. Which I don't think can be seen at this moment. If you are watching on a bigger screen, for sure, you can see it. If you are watching on a smaller screen, it might be difficult for you to continue watching it at this stage because lots and lots of smaller lines, et cetera, going to come up. I would request you to watch it on an iPad or on a screen, maybe a laptop screen or even a TV is good. But yes, this is what I really want you guys to go ahead and watch it on. Going ahead and first adding my fences at this moment and then adding some of my lines. Now, this is particularly a way where you can show the perspective. So left inside, which looks more closer to us is way more, I would say, bigger in terms of the fencing that you can see, whereas, as you go towards the right, it goes far away from us, and hence the fencing also becomes smaller. That's how the perspective works in every watercolor painting, and this is a very, very important aspect of drawing. If you are someone who really wants to ace through your any of the mediums that you are doing, I think you should go through perspective part to a greater detail that would really help you to understand more about, I would say, this whole of these paintings. Like, it gives us so much input on these particular parts. I'm usually using the tip of my brush to make these thinner lines. You can go ahead with any brush that's available with you, size one, size two, size zero brush, whatever works best for you. And for some splatters, I will just cover the top part of my sky as I don't want these platters to move any part of the lighter values which we have added in the sky so that these particular areas can have some texture. That is the ground texture, which I have been always telling you. Wherever there are a few dots, et cetera, that have gone up, you can go ahead with a tissue and remove it. Freeze needs to be very uneven. This is more of a meditative process. It is going to take some time, so you have to be really patient with this particular part of the painting. That's around 2020 2 minutes and not exactly 20 21 minutes, but all I'm saying is that this whole part which we were discussing is one of the most time taking part, and that is the foregrounds, whether it be the ground area, whether it be the grasses, or the fence or even the tree. Now, the tree comes for around ten to 12 minutes, which is of the whole painting. That is one third of the time you're giving to this tree. But at this moment, this is very, very, very important. Once you are done with this tree, the whole get up of this painting comes, the whole painting looks together, and it looks so much beautiful, magical, majestic. I really don't have words to express it. This particular process is so, I would say, satisfying and really satisfying to my soul because it brings everything together as one piece, and you can have a look at this painting and say, Wow, I have nailed it. I have changed my brush now as I was not very satisfied with the brush which I was using. And hence, I wanted to change my brush and go ahead with a brush which I'm more confident about. Now, this brush I've been using for years, and I have a lot of confidence on this brush. I know how the strokes are, et cetera. And hence, I can get something that looks really perfect and really to my own eyes. And every stroke is all the confidence that you see in an artist. Even when you are going to go on that road of becoming an artist or even if you are practicing as a hobby, I would always say, go with the brush for thinner strokes, which gives you a lot of confidence. Practice your strokes beforehand so that when you apply it on the final painting, you are going to nail that painting, too. Your trees are always spontaneous. And because trees are spontaneous, it's important to understand that all the branches of the trees will also be absolutely spontaneous. Whenever you are making any spontaneous branches, make sure that they are not even. That is, they are not in any particular line. They can move anywhere. So make that thing go in your mind or help to do it very spontaneously, always. Do not try to organize it because nature is never organized. It's only humans who try to organize themselves in a great way. And hence, whenever you are portraying nature in your art, it cannot also be organized. Frankly, speaking, at this moment, I don't have much to say, only the fact that we have to continue with our process of creating this tree and, like, making it come together. More and more branches, more and more trees. It is absolutely dry tree. I'm not going to add any leaves on top of it. And, you know, the whole beauty also will go away if we start adding the leaves. This is somewhere between the winter and the spring season, as the classes also come up during the same time, and hence, I want to keep the mood intact. As we continue to discuss more about this painting, I would like to tell you a bit about watercolors, the kind of colors which I have used. I usually use Rembrandt, not the Van Gogh one, the Rembrandt one, absolutely professional trade, Windsora Newton Professional Rd, Senio Professional raid, as well as Shimenke or any of the other colors like PWC, Michel Mission Gold, professional red. Now, why I go ahead with always professional grade watercolors because they have less of fillers in it. They have way more pigments and binder only, which gives me a lot more opportunity to work only with the pigment and not think much about how many layers I need to add on. If I'm good with only one layer, I usually go ahead with one layer. I do not care much about two or three layers that I need to add. Overall, putting it together, I can only say that this helps me to understand how to create a an outcome that looks absolutely amazing without much of fear and just going with the flow. I always go with the flow in terms of watercolors. Watercolors is something that gives me a lot more confidence. Like, if you're using good brushes, if you're using good paper, if you're using good colors, it automatically boost your confidence, and there are less chances of going wrong. And hence, I always say, even if it be a hobby, always try to invest on good products. Go store with your investment. That is you can just buy a small set of professional rate watercolors and later just keep adding one, two, three tubes which will not be very huge on your pocket. Like in India, I know white nights is pretty cheaper compared to the other colors that are available. So many of you who may be watching from India, you can go ahead with white knights. PWC is a great option if you are in US or any of the other countries. I know PWC comes at a pretty cheaper rate there, too, and hence that can really help you to age through your watercolor journey to a greater extent. In the meantime, Nya now, I would like to only add some music so that you guys can go ahead, listen to the music and just enjoy the process of creativity. Creativity is something that comes from within, and no one can frankly teach you. I can only teach you the stepwise process or I can only guide you. But once creativity comes from within, I think you are going to nail whatever you see. You paint from a photo, you paint from nature, you paint from anywhere, whatever looks good to you, just go ahead and paint. That's what is most important. And hence, once you do this, I know you are going to feel a lot more, I would say the kind of energy that we feel from inside is something absolutely different when you are working with watercolor is called a pint medium that is of your liking. Hence, let's continue with the process, and there is four to 5 minutes more, which is there to go. We will continue to add more branches and add a small moon, of course, the whole painting is about moon. You would see this in this whole series, there is way less stars that we have added compared to what we are working on is mostly a moon or a sky or a soft painting that usually doesn't come up much in any kind of a night sky painting. And hence, I just thought to digress a bit more from the simplest of the form of night paintings to something that might be of not only use to you, but also these kind of projects can help you to ace through your next few projects that you want to attempt in your in real time, from photos, or from whatever you see. And that's always the intent of any watercolor sessions or any classes that you are taking, you should use the knowledge of these in your future paintings, too. I did take a coin to create the circle, and once I created the circle, it's time to add a white gouache kind of a colour or an opaque color that's available with you. I'm not going to add it everywhere. In some of the places, it would be lighter, and in some of the places, it would be darker or that opaque colour will come up. This is just to show the full moon that's there. I would be using the blue color that I have already applied. I'm not going to add any other colors for my moon, so it remains the same. And let's continue to work on this and have an outcome of our liking. Remove the tape at an angle once your paper is completely dry, and please please do leave me on feedback. If you are enjoying this class. This is the first bonus lesson. We are going to come up with another bonus lesson and where we are going to paint a beautiful sunset, um, actually not a sunset. It's basically after the sun has set, the moon just comes up. That's the time which I'm going to capture. And this is with a bit more brighter colors that I'm going to capture. All the painting still now has been more lighter in values, but this one is going to be bright, brilliant. I hope you are going to enjoy it, too. This is a small mistake, which I did, and now I will continue to edit this and remove that particular place till it becomes kind of white, and then I have to again add the colors and again work on it. Now, this is something that I have seen even in myself. I do tend to overwork in a few places which might not even need that kind of intention. It might even happen to you. So these all things are real. And when you see people working perfectly, it is not a perfect one. It takes time. It takes a lot of time to get to the understanding and get to the play of colors, et cetera. So just be around, just continue to work on it. Don't overwork or just leave it whenever you are thinking that this is somewhere which I am overworking, leave it and let it be. It would not look absolutely bad or something like that, and it would not even look uneven. No one can literally realize it till you show it. You continue to see how I'm overworking on that piece. It is not needed. Believe me, if you have the correct outcome, you don't need to do this step. Is not what I want you to do. Just the way I told you, you don't need to do that sky part because I did spoil it a bit, and then I had to go over the entire piece again to make the sky a bit more darker. Though my first sky was even beautiful. The second sky also came out to be beautiful, but every time it doesn't happen that way, and you might not be in a position to get a great outcome. The positive part of using 100% cotton paper is that it can take multiple washes because of which the final outcome also looks very pretty. Okay, great. Let's continue to work a few more lines. And once these lines are done, let's have a fine look at this painting. I'm truly excited to have a look at it and share it with you all. Hope to see you again in the next lesson very soon. 12. Bonus Lesson 2 - The Reflection: This is the last lesson from the watercolor moonscape series. We are going ahead with naples yellow, John Brilliant number two. Then there is Quinacridone coral, purple, blue, and indigo. Blue, you can take any color. It can be even your ocean blue or any of the other blues that's available on your palette on the darker side. I will go ahead and just mark one line from the top around 15 centimeter, as you can see over here, then I will just add a line. Now, this is basically a horizon line that's going to separate our sky from the water area. You can take around eight to nine centimeter to denote the main line that is going to show our lighthouse. Now, this is a lighthouse that we are going to add along with a small building that you are going to see. It's basically an evening time where your sun did set and your moon is up. That's what we are going to depict in this with my favorite set of colors. As you know that, yellow, then orange, pink or even you can say Opera, violets. These are the colors that I always always love to go here with in my painting. And there are many paintings that I have done till now where I have shown the sunset with these colors. I have just broken my line into three equal or four equal halves, as you can see over here. I'm drawing a line on the top, as you can see, and then I'm also extending it towards the bottom area. I will join these lines very easily in a slanting way that would actually show my um lighthouse in a simple and easy manner. Everything that you do can be broken into simple lines and sizes and shapes. So never think that it is difficult for you to go ahead and add any kind of shape or any kind of lines. It's all there in our mind. It can be circle, it can be triangle. It can be a rectangular, it can be rhombus, trapezium. So these are hexagon. These are the basic shapes and sizes that we all have learned from our beginning and we were choice. These are geometric shapes and sizes. I'm going to use only those geometric shapes and sizes to practically draw this tower or draw the small area. Every architectural drawing that you do actually involves these small, simple lines or some basic curves, circles, et cetera, nothing much that we really can't define or nothing much in terms of what you should also think that is difficult to achieve at any point in time. I always say everything is easy, everything is simple. We just need to simplify our painting or maybe simplify our sketching with the help of what we see, what we absorb. So those are the things where I think we need an improvement or we need to know how we see the subject and how we want to actually really portray in to a painting. There are many difficult or, I would say, rather more difficult lines, et cetera, which I ignore in a painting. Every line, shape, size, I'm not going to add in a painting, only the blocks, which I think really make or break a particular painting is where I'm more concerned about. I am not going to add all and every detail in a painting that my eyes see. It's only the basic or bigger block size that needs to go in a painting which makes or breaks the painting, as I always say. Just continue with the sketch. It's going to be simple. As I did tell you even earlier, I'm going to add some old lines as you see over here, some windows, and I'm going to extend on the right and on the left. The right is basically the area where I am going to add the bushes, et cetera, which we see. And the bottom part, of course, is the water area that we are going to show. For going ahead with my hon, I will usually take my masking tape circle. I take any circle or any kind of stuff that's available with me to draw my circles, whether it be plates, whether it be bolts, whether it be like the tape roll that we usually all these can be used in your paintings, and that is something I always, always say that do not concentrate on your only this way, you can add the colors or only this way is needed for these shades I want, these brushes I want, this paper, I want, papers is important. But you always can have a lot of choices and lot of options. You can go ahead with the cheaper one compared to the one, which is very, very expensive. So overall, I always, always say that buy that which really suits you. And I'm now going ahead and making the windows for this particular house. Now you can do it in an equidistant way or you can do it smaller or larger. Believe me, this is just an indication, or you can say this is just an outline. Once we are on a real painting, sometimes these lines do change to a great extent. So always expect that that ongoing basis, there might be a few changes which comes up. Continue to just add a bit of darker values in these because darker values helps you to understand that these are the spaces where you will be adding some darker colors compared to the other spaces which are not so highlighted. Some of the spaces would be darker, some of the spaces would be lighter. Why the contrast really works well in any watercolor painting, whatever you are whether it be flowers, whether it be any of the other approachable, stuff that you think you want to paint this architectural building as I'm showing, flowers, roads, scenery, like the faraway land can be lighter. But with darker colors. The closer parts can be with lighter colors, but more darker. So those things you can always always work on. One is the value and one is the contrast. Values play a great role in any watercolor painting, and contrast also plays a great role in any watercolor painting. The better are your contrasts or the better you can play with your values. The unique outcome is what you are going to get. Let us now go ahead and just draw the top part of this tower. And once this top part of the tower is done, we will go ahead and start with our colors and start painting the whole of this painting. It can be wet on wet? It can be wet on dry. I think I would prefer going wet on wet. The colors can move very easily as the whole painting comes together very quickly. It's a four sized painting going wet on dry would be a bit tough compared to going wet on wet. That can be way more easier. Once this sketch is done, just take a small break. Why I say that sometimes what happens is, we just leave out a few things or the sketch is not turned out as P one, and we need to step back alone. You can take a quick water break. You can take a quick coffee break, or chi break, whatever you want to take, go ahead, take that break, come back with a fresh mind and then start with your painting part of this. I always do it in my paintings when I'm doing some new subject. If you are a beginner or even an artist who is experienced, this always always works. Of course, if you are an advanced level artist, you really know your stuff, and this is just a cake I think this is just a walk through for you then. It is very simple, easy. Go ahead and start with your paint. I would make a few more lines basically to show the electric lines over here where from the right, it may join the left. Like that, it carries on. I did tell you initially about this moon, how I'm going to draw, and that's what I have even added. I will go ahead and mask out my moon as well as the reflection of the moon which falls on the water. Though the reflection did not turn out well, and I had to really go ahead with my whitewash to make it work for myself, but, yes, it can work if you go ahead with the white gho, but for my case, it did not work, but I had to literally go over with my white uh again, rather than going to the masking fluid in the first go. Masking fluid really preserves that pte area, and you can use that pit area in your painting later on. I did mask out my area, but what happened in the process is that once I took out that masking fluid, it just made a really contrasting effects. And the moon reflection that falls on the water has to move from the top till the bottom, and there should not be a lot more lines in it in terms of the waves, et cetera, which I really did not want to show. Once I completed the painting, I realized these. Some of the mistakes that we do in watercolor paintings can really be fixed, and this is one of them which I fixed in my watercolor in this particular series. I will show you how you can fix your reflection for the moon in this series, if it's a white or a goldenish kind of moon, it's easier to fix it. If it is more darker value, then it might be difficult to fix, we might have to go ahead, wash out the entire space of the water and then again repaint it. I have done it a lot in my past, and I really go ahead with this kind of work even in my present and future. And I think most of the watercolor artists do it. If they do not like something, just wash off the paper and then again paint over it with some new colors. Many of you have asked me about my masking fluid. This particular masking fluid is from PiBo. It is very thin and can be easily removed. That way, I would say this is one of the best masking fluid that I've come across. It is cheaper also compared to SneloOrwnson, and Newton, which I have been using in the past. I think that really makes it more interesting. If this doesn't work out, you can just throw it away and then go ahead with another new masking fluid. I'm going ahead with my yellow, and then I would use my John Brilliant number five. This can be also a Naples yellow that we usually get in a set like Shimenke. I know that the similar pigments are available in various brands. This brand, John Brilliant number two is from the brand whole being, but all different brands have named it under different colors and under different names. So do read the pigments that you have in your painting that you are going ahead with, and then only purchase your colors. Do not blindly purchase your colors at any point in time. I will go ahead with some of my orange shade or reddish shade. These are basically your quin trodon coral is well suited for this painting. If you do not have quin trodon coral, just mix a bit of red into the yellow, and you will get a color that really suits for the sky area. Once done, I would add some of my opera pink and add it towards the bottom part, then going ahead with my purple and some amount of indigo in it. Now, indigo is one of the colors that I really love. You can also use any other blue color like Prussian blue or other blues in like nontrine blue. Any blue that's available on your palette, you do not need to go ahead with the same blues that I have because your blues may not match with my blues, but something similar to the color that I'm using is good to go ahead with. Always, remember, we are never going to mix our blue with the yellow because that would give us a green, and I always love to avoid that particular dirty mix in any of my paintings. Green doesn't look really real, as I say, it looks more not so not real. Yes, it's the same thing that I'm trying to tell you. It doesn't look great on my painting. And hence, I like to avoid it for these kind of mixes. Do try your colors on a separate paper always and see the color mixes that you are getting is a great exercise. If you want to also go ahead with color theory and choose your colors accordingly, that is also good. If you want to know this, this is particularly harmonious palette that I am choosing. It's starting from yellow, then it goes to orange. Then it goes to pink and purple, blue. So like that, they are placed one after another on the color heel. You can choose complimentary colors. You can choose analogous colors. You can choose any colors of your choice. Split complimentary is something that I really like to go ahead with in my paintings. I plan to make a class on color theory for sure because this is something that I see is not well touched in many of the classes or maybe, I have a separate way to approach my colors, and that might be interesting for many of you. Yes, I will bring about a color theory class, maybe in some time for all of you. I see that color theory I was ignored in the initial time. I was just using the colors that I thought worked well and it moved along. But later, as I think months and a year passed, I realized that, okay, I am working somewhere or the other, in line with color it's just that I am not using it on purpose with the help of my mind or I'm not really directing my mind towards it, but it automatically started happening for me, and it really did not call me for selecting the colors or trying it out separately or really learning the color theory separately altogether. It just happened pretty harmoniously and pretty organically for me. And hence, I never struggled with this particular part. But I know some of you might be struggling, and this particular set of knowledge is important. You can see the sky reflection is falling on the water part, and I'm going to show the same thing over here. I continue to add some more colors towards the bottom area, as you can see in this part of the painting. I add some of the yellows because the entire reflection of the sky has to fall into the water area, and for the same reason, we might have to go ahead with some more colors into the water to make it look more organic and even, and it should reflect the entire part of the sky. Water has no color of its own, and that's one of the reasons that you have to go ahead and add the colors of the sky into the water. Though there are some paintings where there is green algae in the water or there is particular kind of coral reef that's there because of which we might go ahead and just make it on the green or blue side depending on what is there in the bottom part of the particular sea, ocean, et cetera. For this and keeping it simple, the color of the sky gets reflected into the water. Oh You would have seen that I repeatedly move my paper a lot. This really helps the blending to happen on its own. I do not need to do much work. Gravitational force helps to blend the colors. I have mentioned it even earlier, but again, would like to iterate it that you can actually consider less work done if you go ahead and just allow the colors to move on their own. I might continue to work on the bottom part of this painting, which is practically the water area till I'm satisfied. But the time you are satisfied, you see the entire part of the sky getting reflected into the water. Stop at that particular moment. You do not need to continue add colors and make it darker or lighter. Because I just feel it's a personal choice when you add your colors or you want to make it darker or lighter. If you like the colors to be way more lighter, this particular painting will also dry lighter than what you see over here. But if you are someone who likes more of lighter values, you can always go ahead and apply just one layer of colors and it ases. I will now allow my paper to dry off and then start out with the tower area. You can go ahead and choose any of your brush which you are most comfortable with and start painting the tower part. We will start from the top, go till the bottom area. Um, your paper needs to be absolutely dry when you start experimenting with it. Why I've taken from the top to the bottom so that the colors or my hands don't touch the colors of this house area, which is just below the tower part. I will keep all of these in my mind, and it's always good to move from top to bottom. That is always the criteria when you are working with watercolors. Oh. I have taken a dirty indigo blue mix. You can also go ahead with any blue mix a bit of brown in it and get a shade that looks something like this. You can also do it with purple. I would leave that decision up to you what colors you want to add or how you want to actually create the shade. Many of you, I know, also make your ont with orange to get a shade that looks similar to the one which I'm using over here. There are many ways to create a single shade. Believe me, if you even have three primary colors that can also help you to work through your painting a lot. Et us continue to paint our houses and then go ahead and finalize the other parts of this painting. Right now, it's more like a clear wash. And as we progress, you will see that the washes may become darker and lighter and we continue to add more contrast into the painting. You can take either Inglku or pain scree at this moment and start applying the darkest value. We did work around with the lightest value from the top. As we progress, it would become the lighter or the darker value depending on what you think is most important at this moment. So the top area can be lighter, and then the bottom area can be darker. That's how I go about it because then the whole painting ties back together. As the shining of the moon is on the top area and in and around it is more yellow shade and more lighter shade as we go towards the bottom, it's more purple colours that we have used, and hence it becomes more darker in value. I will continue to work on the top part of this tower, and we will start from the line that I make on the top area. And then as we go to the bottom, you will see there will be some more lines which I'm going to add. I now my paper is wet, and I will go ahead with some dry waves in this case. We have already done a lot of wet on wet waves, and that's one of the reasons I really did not want to again a wet on wet in this part. I went ahead with some of my dry waves structure in this. I think you will also like it because for many who cannot control water very well, I think this is a great idea to introduce your introduce you to the fact that, yes, you can paint wet over dry area and even create any kind of vase that you want to add in your painting. Mm. Start adding the lines, which basically will look like electrical lines, and they will join the wires from the left to the right. Once you have joined these wires, then you can really see that the darker values are coming up well, as well as the lighter values are also coming up on the right side. So I'm not going to add a lot of darks and lot of lights. I will be working with my contrasts in this painting. Contrast really adds all the intent or really adds the warmth and beauty to a painting which we want in any kind of painting or in any kind of medium that you are working with where you want to actually show perspective or whether you want to show the lighter parts of the sky, lighter parts of the water, darker parts of the water, whatever you control your values, you control your contrast, and that's it. U I have taken my Escoto optimal brush, and this has got a great clip, which I'm using for continuously painting the top area of my this tower. I will add some lines. If you are someone who doesn't have this kind of a brush, you can go ahead with size one or size zero brush to add all the lines. I would be going over the area which I have already painted with the same colors just to make it a bit more darker. Sometimes I just feel that this is important, or this is what I need to do, and we might go ahead with two layers. So lines for the roof area. And once we are done with this, we will go ahead and at the bottom part of our painting. We will be basically focusing then on the bottom part of our painting. This whole painting should take you around 15 minutes to an hour, though I know you might be thinking that why it is taking so much more time compared to all the paintings that you have done till now. All I can say is that this is a painting where you get to learn to paint on bigger area. That is first, it's a A four size paper, and then we are working mostly wet on wet for our base layer. And to make it a bit more darker, I had to go ahead with applying some more colors, which I never thought that I had to apply again and again. And that's the reason, yes, it took some more time. And there are the drawing part also takes about ten to 15 minutes, and then only we start out with the painting, which is about 30 minutes. Usually I try to keep all my paintings within the 30 minutes span, though the drawing, of course, can take more or less depending on what kind of painting we are doing. If it is more of an architectural painting, it will take more time. If it is not an architectural painting, then it will take more or less time. Okay, some of the lines for the bottom part, as you can see over here, I am just making or using the tip of my brush to make a few lines which are broken, and this will show that the water is moving. I will go ahead with broader lines when we are working on the bottom part of our painting, and I will go with thinner lines as we go towards the top part or near the horizon line. Let's work through the water continuously and finish it off till we reach the top. There is not much to explain at this stage. It's more of an iterative process, and you have to continue working through it. I will blend up a few of the areas with the help of my flat brush wherever I think it is necessary. Otherwise, leave it as is. It is a wet on dry method, as I did tell you even Audio, we are not going ahead with wet on wet ripples or any kind of waves. If you are someone who loves to paint wet on wet, please go ahead and try out my other classes. Where I have taught water like watercolor ocean waves, watercolor ocean waves, 2.2, there are lots and lots of water related classes, which you can always go through and gain all the knowledge you need for painting water. Once this part is done, we will go ahead and remove all the material that we did apply initially. That is the masking fluid from the bottom part of the painting where basically the reflection of the sun is falling onto the water, as well as I will remove the masking fluid from the sorry, the moon. Of course. It's a moon that we are painting. I don't know why I say the sun. But yes, there are many paintings with the same colour even with the sunsets, et cetera. So yeah, it just did slip out. Let's continue to work through the moon area, and I will like, once I did apply the colors on this white part, which was basically the bottom area of the reflection of the moon, I was really not satisfied, so I had to go back and again work on it because I was not happy with the colors that came out over there. The reflection of the tower and the house needs to come up. That's one of the reasons. Once my paper is dry, I will go ahead and apply a clear layer of water and then apply some of the darker values to show the house in a very, very easy and simple way, as well as the tower that we have over here. Reflection is done in a wet on wet manner because then it's way more easier for us to work through the reflection rather than working wet on dry, then you have to actually look through all the small, small details that you have added for the top part again into the bottom area. And I really wanted to keep it simple rather than complicated. All the paintings have to be simple as per my understanding, it's all we want to just go ahead quickly paint and keep it with us or gift it to our loves or even frame it and put it on any of the rooms that you want to. Uh now I'm super excited to just complete the painting and not sit with it. At this moment, do not try to go fast. Just keep your patience. We are almost going to end the painting at this moment. I'm going ahead and applying some yellow, but actually, you do not need to do this. Believe me, if you keep it white, that's the best way to go about it, and that's what we are going to do even with the wash. But there are many mistakes that I also commit when I work through painting. And there are several ways to even correct that. One of the ways is by applying white gouache for the reflections in many of the areas where it might not have though I do not prefer applying any opaque medium into my transparent watercolors, but there are times where we have to take some measures to correct any painting to our liking. Some more thin lines for the wires, and then we are done with it. We are not going to add anything more at this moment and leave it simple and easy, as you see over here. Going with simple naples yellows, maybe some darker value of indigo a bit here and there, and that's all we're not going to paint a lot into the moon area. It's a full moon, and we are going to use almost the similar colors that we did use even on the sky. Remove the tape at an angle, and you see that the beautiful moon reflection is falling into the water. Though the reflection did not work out, I will show you the best way how you can make your reflections work. Go ahead with your gouache, take any brush of size four, size three, whatever you have available with yourself, and start adding these kind of shorter and longer lines. When you start out with it, they are usually smaller in the middle. They become more broader as well as longer. And as it ends again, it would become smaller. Uh, so it's kind of a mirror image when you see from the sky and to the water. I hope you have liked the entire series, and if you have any further suggestions, do drop me in the discussion section. If you have any doubts, to drop any of your misuse in the discussion section, I will get back to you as soon as possible. Do upload your class projects in the project gallery as I eagerly wait for each one of them. There might be times where I can't give my feedback, but, yes, I do go through each one of them, and it makes my day when I see your projects. Going ahead and just ending this painting on a high, I will come up with another new class very soon and hope you enjoy the series. As I always say, every series comes up with something new and moonscape was something that was there in my mind for quite some time. I wanted to bring it for each one of you. See you in the next class till then, happy painting and enjoy watercolors.