Transcripts
1. Course Intro: Hi, my name is Josh and I'm a professional
Fujifilm photographer working across different
parts of Africa. Now in this course, we're
going to have a look at the film simulations that are built into Fujifilm cameras. We're gonna go through
what they are, how you can apply them, and how you can use them
to boost your creativity. As you take your photos. For the class
project, you're going to be choosing and installing a custom film simulation into your camera and sharing some of the images
you've created with it. Don't forget to have a look
at my other courses as there are more being
uploaded all the time. I hope you enjoyed this one. And as always, you can drop
me a message at anytime. If you have any
questions as we go.
2. Film Simulations Explained: If you spend more
than a couple of minutes researching
Fujifilm cameras, you're bound to have come across the term film simulations. Now what people are referring to a color and effect profiles that are built into the cameras, which are meant to
give your photos the same feel as film
stocks of days gone by. Other manufacturers
such as Sony and Panasonic offer
income or profiles such as maybe natural or portraits and maybe a couple
of black and white modes. But none of them offer
anything nearly as powerful as what you
find with Fujifilm. These simulations are extremely popular for a few reasons. First of all, they offer
incredible customization. You can take your photos with simulations
just as they are, or you can change just
about every element to make it exactly
the way you want. You change the white balance, apply a tone curve. You can add or remove
film grain, you name it. Second of all, you can get the look you want
straight out of camera. And this means you choose
the film simulation before you take the photos
and then afterwards. There is little to no editing between you and a
fantastic image. Now you may want to crop a
base or tweak the exposure, but overall it means a huge
reduction in editing time. Thirdly, it gives
you the benefits of digital cameras while allowing you to
have the best bits of the film experience. The retro controls
of cameras like the X T5 paired with
the film ethos of getting everything right
in camera helps to slow you down and think more
deliberately about your photos. Now this means that
instead of coming home with 2000 photos
of your holiday to Rome of which 200 worth keeping. Maybe you come back with
300s and instead of spending joyless hours calling through hundreds of duplicate images, you have a library of
much more thought out and deliberate photos which are
a lot easier to organize. I just want to reassure
you at this point, if you are a diehard
spray in prayer, Fujifilm will still
allow you to do that in their cameras
because they're not designed to limit to your
shooting in any way, but to open up new options. Now in the next video,
we're going to have a look at the impact
of shooting raw vs JPEG when it comes to applying these simulations
to your images.
3. Shooting RAW vs JPEG: Now this is a very
important thing to understand and it's
something that you will constantly see asked about on the Fujifilm
groups online. Hopefully by the
end of this video, you can help answer some of those questions or better yet, you can just point
people to this course. If you aren't familiar with
what RAW and JPEG files are, just hopping on YouTube and watching a two-minute
explanation. Because it is a vital thing to understand if you are
stepping into photography. In short, a raw file is
a copy of exactly what the sense of recorded
when you took the photo with almost
nothing done to it. Think of it as the war
ingredients of the cake, which you then have the flexibility to bake in a
variety of different ways. Now that is more work, but you have more options. Jpegs or like a ready-made
cake baked in your camera. You can add icing and enhance it and did a
few different ways. But for the most part, the cake is the cake. What this means is that if you shoot in RAW on your
Fujifilm cameras, the files will not come out with a film simulation or any
custom features applied. And you will have to edit it
to look that way yourself. Now if you want to get the look in camera that you've dialed in, you must shoot in JPEG. If you want the best
of both worlds, you can choose to
shoot in both plus R4, which will provide you with
both versions of the image. Just make sure that
you don't create a lot of extra work
for yourself by doubling the number
of photos you have to call an organized. Fujifilm has made sure he
didn't feel stuck at any point. I also building film simulation bracketing into various cameras. So you can choose
multiple looks. You want the same
image to be saved. And you can also change
which simulation has been applied to a JPEG while
it's still in the camera, or by plugging your camera into the computer and
using Fuji IX studio. So in case I haven't been clear, Fuji Films films simulations
only apply to jpegs. So double-check your
camera settings before you go out shooting. If you want to use them.
4. Installing Custom Film Simulations: The first thing
we're going to do is dive into the camera
menu and have a look at how you choose the film simulation
you would like to use. On most cameras,
it will come up on the very first page of the menu. So you see here, we can
go in, select that. Now that we've selected
that film simulation, you can see that as Dalton, all of the relevant
settings below. We can now go into each of those settings and adjust them to suit our
individual tastes. So if you love the
colors of classic nag, but you don't want
the film grain, then you can just go ahead
and toggle it off equally. You can go to the
tone curve and make things more or less contrasty. If you want an in-depth look at all of the different options, then I suggest you
have a look at my class mastering the x 100 V, and go to the video
on ICU settings. What we cover that is relevant for the vast majority
of Fuji cameras, not just the 100 ft. Now that we know how to choose one of the built-in simulations, let's have a look at how
you can go about installing one of the many
fantastic recipes that you can find online. First, let's head on
over to Fuji IX weekly. Put in our sensor type and
see what options come up. I love the look of this one. So let's click into
it and have a look. This part should be fairly self-explanatory as
you'll recognize the settings from
when we looked at them in camera a
couple of minutes ago. We need to do is put in all of those settings that are given in this recipe into your camera. And then save it. So first, we'll choose the
right film simulation. In this case, classic Chrome. Go down the list and make sure everything matches
up with the recipe. Now that we've done all of that, we can go ahead and save
it to our camera by going to the last page
of the ICU settings, clicking in here,
and pressing safe. They have the ability
to dial in any of the incredible recipes
that people are creating around the world. Just like with the
freeze your recipes, you can tweak anything you
like and make it your own. If you really come up
with something new, then you can share it so that
others can use it as well. Now you're ready for
the class project. What I want you to do is
find a recipe you like, add it to your camera and
then take some photos. When you've done
that, come back here and upload 123 of them. And yeah, tell us what
recipe you use so that others can also try it out with normal enjoy
each other's work. Let's get cracking.
5. Bonus: Shooting RAW and Adding Simulations in Post: Now, we already established
in the second video that you need to shoot in JPEG to
have the film recipe LEA, applied directly to your photo. However, that may not be
an option for many of you. If like me, you can't afford
to lose the flexibility of raw because you are doing
this work professionally. You can still benefit from
the film simulations. If you have a look,
This photo is classic leg and
this one is previa. But they were both
originally shot enroll. So how do you get the best
of both worlds like this? There are a couple of
different options. First of all, you can apply
the film simulation to your raw image as a camera profile in both
Lightroom or capture one. I know you can do it in
other editors as well, but these two programs
cover 99% of Fuji users, so I'll focus on them. These camera profiles
appear under color profiles and then
under camera matching. You can choose between any of the films simulations
which were in your camera, which is fantastic. Now, these profiles will
only be available for the rules that had
the main camera. So you will not be
able to apply them to an Olympus or Sony
file and you will not have the option of applying a new assimilation like
nostalgic neg to e1, e2, e3 role, which doesn't have that simulation in camera. Now once you've chosen
the profile you want, you can apply the tweaks you would've applied to your JPEG, but just in post. So you can add your contrast
saturation, all of that. The second way you can
do this is by using Fujifilm own software
called Fuji IX studio. This program is available
for free online and what it does is
it uses your camera, the brain for the
file conversion. Apart attack on YouTube has a great step-by-step
video you can watch. Instead of reinventing
the wheel, I'm going to suggest that
you have a look at that. If it's going to become
part of your workflow, I'll pop the link down below. The crux of it is that you
have to plug your camera, say, an X t4 into your laptop. And Fuji IX Studio allows you to edit any X t4 or as you like, and export jpegs from them with the simulation
done by the camera, you can only edit rules created by the same
model camera you have plugged into your computer and no one has found
a way around it yet. So bear that in mind if you do shoot with more than
one Fuji Camera. My workflow involves
importing my images into the Cloud integrated version of Lightroom on my laptop or iPad. Applying the
simulation I want via the camera profiles and editing the rules from that like I would with files from any
other manufacturer. As a professional, it is
more than worth paying the infamous Adobe
monthly fee for the convenience of the Cloud
sync across my devices. These abuse of Lightroom and its integration
with Photoshop on both my iPad and laptop for when I'm preparing
files for print. And that's the way that
I typically do it. So there you have it. You can still benefit from the brilliant Fujifilm
simulations while shooting raw through the ease
of simple color profiles. I hope this has helped you
figure out how you would like to work with your
Fuji files or less. And don't forget to check
out my other courses.
Josh Chard
