Real-World Photography with the Fujifilm X100V | Josh Chard | Skillshare
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Real-World Photography with the Fujifilm X100V

teacher avatar Josh Chard

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Intro

      0:59

    • 2.

      The 35mm Focal Length

      2:45

    • 3.

      Portraits

      10:08

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About This Class

Do you own one of the X100 series of cameras? If so, you have an incredible photography tool at your disposal, one which can shine in a wide variety of situations. In this course, we're going to look at how to use your camera to capture unique moments, memorable portraits, powerful stories, and more.

If you work with a different camera system, but want to get better at using 35mm lenses, then this course will also contain tons of useful information for you. Join me in the field in Southern Egypt and we'll tackle these different situations together and try to get some great photos.

Meet Your Teacher

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Josh Chard

Teacher

My name is Josh Chard, and for over 20 years I have lived in amazing parts of Africa.

As an award-winning Fujifilm travel and documentary photographer, I seek to share the wonder of the places I have seen, uncover the stories of fellow human beings, and empower others to grow in their photography.

Join me, harness your tools, and learn how you can create more compelling images.

 

 

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Level: Beginner

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Transcripts

1. Intro: Hi, my name is Josh child and I'm a professional photographer working across different parts of Africa. In this course, we're going to take the Fujifilm x 100 V out into the world and see how we can capture great images. We'll discuss everything from landscapes to portraits, how to think about framing, and how to come home with photos worth sharing. While this course is based on the x 100 cameras, it will also be beneficial to anyone that wants to get better at using the 35-millimeter focal length on any camera system. There will also be plenty of advice on manual exposure settings in different environments. Now, don't forget to check out my other courses as I'm putting new ones out all the time. You can have a look at my work on Instagram at an African tail. And please don't hesitate to get in touch if you have any questions at all. 2. The 35mm Focal Length: Now before we get out into the field and start taking photos, we should quickly discuss the focal length that we're going to be working with as a well-defined our composition. And what we choose to capture. Some of you may be wondering why I'm talking about 35-millimeter lenses when it says 23 mm on your Fuji Camera. And that's because food is X series use APIC or cropped sensors. Now that means they are smaller than full-frame sensors. And because of physics that we don't need to get into here or there, lenses are essentially zoomed in by 1.5 times. Now this is the same for all different manufacturers with different sensor sizes. Olympus has a two times zoom with its smaller micro four-third sensor. So there's 17 mil lens is the equivalent of 35-millimeter on full-frame. Anyway, there are great many videos on YouTube that can go into that further and we'll discuss it a bit more throughout the course. The long and the short of it is that we're going to be working pretty much exclusively with the 35-millimeter focal length for these videos. Now, this brings with it a number of benefits and a number of limitations. Portrait photographers tend to lean towards longer focal lengths, such as 85 mm. And landscape photographers tend to lean toward super wide lenses such as 16 or 24 mm 35 avoids those extremes. The next 100 v is not designed to be a specialized camera, is intended to be a versatile everyday camera that you can use to photographic family, snowy forest or striking street moment, whatever. This means that you're going to be able to capture the widest variety of photos. But you're going to have to know how to harness this focal length or you'll get disappointing results. As a documentary photographer, I think it is a fantastic discipline to learn how to shoot with a wider focal length, like the 35. A lot of new photographers gravitate towards the safety of a longer lens, which allows them to stand further back from their subjects. Now that's less scary, but it also puts a visible distance and the image, even if you crop in, it is obvious that you weren't next to what you're photographing. Now when you get up close with x 100, photos show that you are in the action. You're feeling the heat from the street vendors fire or you write down next to your kids as they leave around on the beach. It's far more engaging and evocative and it's excellent for storytelling. It will teach you to be bolder and coming closer, which honestly it will make you a better photographer. Now that we understand what we're working with, Let's get out into our s1 and take some photos. 3. Portraits: All right guys, In this video we're going to have a look at how we use the next 100 V to take great portraits. Now many of you may already know that portrait photographers tend to use longer focal lengths because of an effect called Lens compression. Essentially, if you take a close-up shot of someone with a super wide lens, it distorts the features and a not so nice way, enlarging the nose and pinching the face like this. The opposite effect happens with longer focal lengths creating a much more flattering look. And say, portraits are often taken with lenses ranging 50-135 mm with 85 generally considered to be the sweet spot. Longer lenses also have a shallower depth of field at the same aperture and the compression makes the vocal look even more soft and well bogey. Now, the good news is that the 35-millimeter equivalent lands of the 100 v is not wide enough to distort faces. And you can take headshots with it, but it won't be producing the same look as Fuji is 85 millimeter or equivalent lenses, unless you cheat, which we'll look at later. Now, the 35-millimeter lens of the excellent hundred feet may not be built specifically for headshots, but it is perfectly designed for environmental portraits because it is tight enough to clearly identify the subject, but wide enough to clearly show the context. To demonstrate what I mean. I'm gonna go around the island with my mate Muhammad and see what photos we can get, which hero, both him and his surroundings in different ways. I've intentionally not used a professional model because it's much more likely you will be taking pictures of friends, family, or clients who may not be confident in front of the camera and who don't know how to pose. Now, even if you're just using this camera for fun, you can really help people feel great about themselves. If you spend a tiny bit of time looking at comfortable and natural poses or positions for both men and women. They'll feel less strange in front of the camera because someone who's guiding them and they'll look better and more relaxed in their photos. Now I'm not gonna go into this more now, but there are tons of great YouTube videos and even Skillshare classes on how to do this. But for now, let's get cracking. Okay, admittedly, we're in a fantastic location here and it's working really nicely. A few things to just explain about the settings that I'm using. I've got the 100 V on low speed burst of three. So that's enough that I can press and hold. And I'll keep taking frames as he's moving. With a higher shutter speed, 500 or more. There's not gonna be any motion blur, but it doesn't mean I'm gonna be getting like 20 photos of high-speed bursts for every moment that I'm trying to capture. So yeah, I'm on low speed burst. Maya, so right now is just set to a flat 160, but happily leave it on auto right now to go up to about 800 because the files will clean up. Low, will look great anyway. For my shutter speed, I've got it set to run. I'm shooting all manual. I've got it set to 500. But again, I'm in brighter settings where I know it's not going to drop the shutter speed down to like 80 or something like that. I would put it on auto as well. Or of course, I could set the auto shaft speed so they did a minimum of one-to-five. That's the settings I'm using right here. I was for focus. I am using the AI auto detects, which is working well here. So we just need to keep an eye on it and double-check the shots. Now the new algorithm for to focus in things like the X H2S and the SH2 and all of that is superb. The next 100 v is very good for competent, but it's not solely. So do keep an eye on your shots. If you are taking lots and just make sure that you are hitting focus, which you will probably will be. But if you're doing anything that isn't quite right or you haven't calibrated it right? It's a lot better to know it earlier rather than at the end of, at the end of the session when you've already taken your photos and everyone's gone home. Okay. So when we get to take a few more here and we'll have a look at them afterwards. Let me just line it up. Okay. Perfect. Now, turn and look over this way a little bit more. Yeah, that's nice. That's perfect. Okay. Let's see. Nice and look over that way. Okay, Let's see. Excellent man has really nice look that way. A little bit more. Not too much that Yeah. Yeah. Perfect. Right. That the gold frames with the gold light and everything is like looking good. I'm gonna do one. You can still look that way. I'm gonna do one from over this side. Actually, the way you're standing now is really nice. Let me just quickly stand back. I didn't wanna go across. And we can take a few nice ones that Yeah. Okay. Now, turn your shoulders, keep your legs as they are, but turn your shoulders to look more towards me and say, however is comfortable. But just say here, okay, let's see. If you go down to where the sun just finishes. I'm just gone down now and I'm going to see how it is. And look out. I'm going to see how if you come maybe to here and just stand and look like this. I'm going to say yeah, yeah, yeah, With your back. Now, highest. Wow, this is amazing actually. Perfect. Don't move. Alright, I hope it was helpful to see how I set up the shocks, why stood, what settings I used and how the photos came out with different films simulations. Now a few key tips that you may have picked up on from watching me. You have to get pretty close to someone for headshots due to the wider angle lens. So be ready for that. Brush your teeth. Stay in close up will help give you nice bokeh, despite the wide angle lens and the max of two aperture, just don't have leaves are objects too close to your subject. The more space you have behind them, more separation, you'll get. A little cheat to get the effect of a longer lens is to use the camera Digital Telecom vertex of the 100 v, which will essentially crop your image and then upsample it back to 26 megapixels like I did with the last two photos. Now many would opt to do this in post, but it's totally valid and a lot of fun to do it in camera as well. Now if you're not sure how to do this, check out my course on mastering Fujifilm camera menus and you'll have a handle on it in no time. Now, even if you're shooting in raw, shooting with a more stylized simulation, such a classic NAG is great because you can show people photos as you're taking them, and they already look amazing and your camera, now you can switch previa or any other Sim and post depending on your edit. But it will make it an even better experience for you both while you're actually taking the photos. If you're not 100% confident with working with different films simulations, then you should have a look at my soup short course harnessing film simulations. And that's it. If you have any other questions or if anything wasn't clear, then hit me up and we'll talk it through. Now. Go out and take some portraits.