Are you looking to take up sewing? Maybe you want to make your own clothes, or maybe you’d like to try a new hobby like quilting. Whatever your reason, knowing how to use a sewing machine can open up a world of creative opportunities. 

Your sewing machine may seem intimidating at first, but if you learn how to set it up properly and familiarize yourself with a few important functions, you can start sewing in no time at all. 

Sewing Machine 101: How It Works

Sewing machines work by interlocking two different threads to stitch together pieces of fabric. One thread comes from a spool above the fabric, and the other comes from a smaller spool underneath, called a bobbin. A needle comes down to push the top thread through the fabric and a hooking mechanism loops it around the bobbin. When the top thread is pulled back up, the two threads are intertwined and locked together. This creates a stitch. Another mechanism pushes the fabric along so that each new stitch is made in a new place. 

Two Main Types of Sewing Machines 

For casual at-home sewing, there are typically two types of sewing machines you can choose from:

  1. Mechanical Sewing Machines

These are the traditional sewing machines we’ve been using for well over a century. They’re powerful, yet simple to use. You can choose from a few different stitch types and adjust settings like thread tension and stitch length by manipulating knobs and dials. A foot pedal engages the sewing mechanism and controls the machine’s speed. 

  1. Computerized Sewing Machines 

This is a newer type of sewing machine that relies on a built-in computer to manage functions and adjust settings. It automates complex sewing tasks and offers hundreds of switch types. Some models can even use embroidery data transferred from a computer. You don’t need to use a foot pedal, either—you can start sewing with a push of a button, and the machine will automatically maintain an optimal speed. 

Which One To Choose

For complete beginners, a mechanical sewing machine is often the better choice. It doesn’t have an overwhelming amount of functions, and getting started with it is quick and easy. Plus, it’s much more affordable and widely available.

From then on, we’ll talk specifically about mechanical sewing machines. 

Anatomy of a Sewing Machine

Every sewing machine is slightly different, but they all share the same fundamental components. Knowing what these are and what functions they serve will help you better understand your machine, troubleshoot any issues and use it to its full potential. 

Power switch: This is what turns the machine on and off. It’s usually located on the right side or the back of the machine. 

Foot pedal: This attaches to the side of the machine with a cord and rests on the floor. Much like the gas pedal in a car, you press it to start sewing and control the speed. 

Hand wheel: Located on the right side of the machine, this wheel does exactly what the foot pedal does, but much slower. It’s most often used to manually adjust the position of the needle. 

Spool pin: This is a horizontal or vertical pin located on top of the sewing machine. It holds the spool of thread used for the top of the stitch. 

Bobbin winder: This is located near the spool pin and is used to wind thread from a spool onto a bobbin. A bobbin winding tension disk and bobbin winding stopper ensure a smooth winding process. 

Thread guides: These direct the top thread down to the needle through a series of loops and channels. Most sewing machines use numbers and arrows to show you where the thread needs to go and in what order. One of those loops is the take-up lever. If it’s in a lower position and you can’t access it, you can turn the hand wheel to bring it back up. 

Needle: The needle is held in place with a needle clamp. You can replace the default needle with one better suited for the type of fabric you’re working with. 

Needle plate: Located just under the needle, this metal plate is what the fabric rests on while you sew. Feed dogs, which are part of the needle plate, are small metal ridges that help move the fabric along. 

Presser foot: This comes down to hold the fabric firmly in place on top of the needle plate. A presser foot lever is located at the back of the machine and is used to raise and drop the presser foot. You can switch out the presser foot for a special one that helps with specific tasks like sewing zippers or button holes. 

Bobbin case: This is usually located underneath the needle plate, behind a small removable cover. It’s a compartment that houses the bobbin and the mechanism that loops the top thread around the bottom thread. 

Tension dial: This controls the tension of the top thread. If at any point, your top and bottom stitches don’t look the same, you can use this dial to bring them back into balance. 

Stitch type selector: Turn this to choose from several regular and decorative stitches. 

Stitch length selector: This is used to adjust the length of each stitch. Shorter stitches typically work well for lighter fabrics, while longer stitches are used for thicker fabrics. 

Stitch width selector: For stitches that aren’t just a straight line, this adjusts their width. 

Reverse stitch lever: When this is engaged, the machine pushes the fabric in the opposite direction. Adding a reverse stitch like this at the start and end of a line prevents stitches from unraveling. 

How to Set Up Your Sewing Machine

Before you start sewing, you need to load the machine with thread. The precise instructions for this will depend on the brand and model of your sewing machine, so be sure to check your user manual. The general steps are as follows:

Step 1: Prepare a Bobbin

  1. Turn on the sewing machine.
  2. Place a spool of thread onto the spool pin. 
  3. Take the end of the thread, loop it around the bobbin winding tension disk and run it through one of the small holes of an empty bobbin, going from the inside out. 
  4. Place the bobbin onto the bobbin winder and push it closer to the stopper—this will keep it from overfilling. 
  5. Holding onto the edge of the thread, gently press the foot pedal to start winding. 
  6. When finished, remove the wound bobbin from the winding and cut the thread. 

Step 2: Thread the Machine

Turn the hand wheel to bring up the take-up lever if it’s not already in an accessible position. Take the end of the thread and follow the guides to thread the machine all the way down to the needle. Your last step should be putting the thread through the eye of the needle. 

Step 3: Load the Bobbin and Bring Up the Bottom Thread

  1. Hold the wound bobbin in the shape of the letter P (with the end of the thread hanging down on the left side) and place it inside the bobbin case. 
  2. Hook the end of the thread into the looping mechanism (refer to the user manual for how to do this) and pull it to the top left corner of the needle plate. 
  3. Close the bobbin case cover.
  4. Holding the ends of the top thread and the bottom thread, turn the hand wheel until the needle lowers and comes back up. 
  5. If everything has been threaded correctly, you should be able to pull on the top thread and bring up the bottom thread from the same opening where the needle was just lowered. 

The machine should now be ready for sewing! 

Making Your First Stitches 

  1. Before you start, make sure the needle and the presser foot are both raised. 
  2. Place your fabric onto the needle plate and lower the presser foot.
  3. Gently press the foot pedal and guide your fabric as the machine makes stitches. There’s no need to push it—just support it and keep it straight. 
  4. When you’re done, make sure the needle is in a raised position. Raise the presser foot, pull the fabric away and cut both threads. 

Become a Sewing Maestro

Getting to know your sewing machine is just the first step, but it’s one of the most important. Next, it’s time to take a sewing class, learn fundamental techniques and start practicing. And if you don’t already, start collecting scrap fabric—you’re going to need lots of it on this fun and rewarding journey you’re about to start!  

Written By
Sayana Lam

Sayana Lam

Sayana is a musician, writer and graphic designer based in Toronto, Canada.

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