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Erstellen Sie die perfekte Aquarellpalette

I've been trying to determine a better way to make a mixing chart that's easier to use. The second photo shows what I've come up with. Once laminated, the swatches will be much easier to match the color I need. Each color chart is 3.7" x 14" and I can cut three from a 11X14 " sheet of Arches Cold Press 140lb paper. Each swatch is 1/2" square and the bottom one has the greater ratio of the main pigment mixed with other pigments. I placed these in alpha order, but you can arrange them any way you prefer. This gives you 48 mixes per side (X 2 when you count the greater ratio of the secondary pigment on the top). If that's not enough room for you, you always have the back (making 96 options).

This is a 24 color chart.  Hope you can see it well enough.  It's a bit sloppy, but it works for me.  Eventually, I'll make an even larger chart with all my current colors on it.   I came up with a method using an eyedropper to measure out watercolor paint in precise combinations.  Color mixes from left over are predominantly heavier pigment in that specific color and color mixes from the top down are predominately higher in that pigment (for instance, left of the color name buff titanium, the color mix with ultramarine blue is more pale than the ultramarine mix because it has MORE buff titanium than the ultramarine blue at the top of the chart mix with buff titanium because it's heavier on the blue).  It was the only way I was able to build accuracy into the process for me.  <img src="https://static.skillshare.com/uploads/parentClasses/8cd7f7a45ca2ca507f38b8e987cd60d1/e94d3ee9" class="zoomable rounded-image-wrapper" alt="e94d3ee9" />

You should add this photo to the main post, so we can see it larger in all its's glory.

Thanks.  I think I did what you suggested.  ;-)

My swatches are small. I modeled them after ones you shared on "In Liquid Color". Your guidance has been invaluable for some time!!I wanted to attached them to the outside of my Robax watercolor palette (please see the second photo). Hot glue makes this easy and also allows me to change them out quickly.They are laminated to keep them waterproof, the tops are bent to wrap the top and show me the color in each pan easily, they have the color name, pigment color, W/C for "temp", staining quality, G/N for granulating quality, and the opaqueness of each color. The Robax palette is on a rotating base, and I can use a ceramic/porcelain plate in the center or to the side and have detailed information about each color I'm using at my fingertips. This allows me to use a color wheel layout to my palette and quickly change colors when needed. I filled in with earth tones, but assured the neutralizing watercolor was directly across from the primary colors in the palette. The only negative is it's bulkier than flip/closing palettes, but it is small enough to fit into the wheeled freestanding cart for easy storage. It also has a lid and a center section that's said to be "ideal" for en plein air, but I would NEVER use it anywhere other than my studio.

I'm so sorry for the delay in replying to you, Becky. Thank you for posting these incredibly thorough swatches and charts with the class. I'm sure they're very inspirational, and I'm very impressed with the level of detail you've included. Let me know if you have any questions, but I think you just about covered everything!

Thanks, it's the reference librarian in me.  I try to research everything which can often get in the way of actually painting.  ;-)

When doing the other individual pigment mixing charts, I'm planning on grouping the colors I'm mixing together (all yellow pigments, all orange, red.....).  I think it will be easier to match color mixes if I do that.

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