Transform Your Furniture With Chalk Type Paint | Paula Pierce | Skillshare

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Transform Your Furniture With Chalk Type Paint

teacher avatar Paula Pierce, Artist/ Entreprenuer

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

11 Lessons (54m)
    • 1. Chalkpromo

      0:48
    • 2. Lecture1

      0:57
    • 3. Lecture2

      5:15
    • 4. Lecture3

      3:12
    • 5. Lecture 7

      6:47
    • 6. Lecture4

      6:57
    • 7. Lecture5

      3:35
    • 8. Lecture6

      8:03
    • 9. Lecture8

      15:51
    • 10. Lecture9

      2:06
    • 11. Lecture10

      0:51
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About This Class

Learn the basics of painting your furniture with chalk finish type paint. In this class, you will learn how to identify furniture appropriate for painting, what tools and supplies you will need, and methods for applying paint and sealer.

There are many manufacturers who supply materials for furnture painting. In this class I will share with you the pros and cons of your many options, as well as share my favorites and secrets for success.

Meet Your Teacher

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Paula Pierce

Artist/ Entreprenuer

Teacher

Film/Education
Eastern Washington University

Visual Art
Seattle Pacific University

Visual Art
Seattle Pacific University

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Transcripts

1. Chalkpromo: transform your furniture with chalk. Finished pain. Hi, I'm Paul appears. My educational background is in visual arts as well as film and education. But most of what I've learned about painting furniture has come from hands on D I. Y. After taking this course, students will have the skills and knowledge to give them the confidence to try painting furniture themselves. This course is for anyone who loves beautiful painted furniture. But they're just a little bit hesitant to try themselves. They need just a little bit more explanation, information and demonstration to boost their confidence to tackle their own projects. Thank you so much for checking out this class, and I hope to see you inside. 2. Lecture1: Hello, everyone, and welcome to the class. I'm so glad that you're here. I'm so glad you decided to join us. And I'm excited for this new venture in your life. In this class, we're going to cover the definition of chalk paint, which may surprise you, but we'll talk about this finish and exactly what is meant by it. We will talk about what you can paint with this type of paint. We'll talk about what tools you need, how to select your pieces to paid, how to apply the paint for best results, and we'll talk about protecting your piece. There's several different options that you have, and we will talk about storing paint and caring for your brushes once you get started on your piece. If you have any questions about anything at all, don't hesitate to ask if I don't know the answer myself. I will look through my resource is and see if I can find that for you. I am so excited that you're here and let's get started 3. Lecture2: So what is chalk type? Finish? Well, there is a lot of information out on the Internet, a lot of posts on Pinterest that fall under the name chalk paint. And so a lot of people think that chalk paint is a type of paint or a type of painting when actually chalk paint is actually a trademark name that's trademarked by Annie Sloan for her particular line of paint. So, uh, that doesn't mean that you can't get similar finishes and similar results with different types of paint. So that's why you have other manufacturers that call things chalk, finish paint or chalky type pain or chalked paint. They put that name in there just to give the consumer the understanding that they are riding in the same lane as the chalk paint. So is the paint exactly the same? No, it's not exactly the same. It's manufactured by different companies, most of it that is identified as a chalk type finish you could use in the same manner. So what? All of these paints, marketed with some sort of chalk in their name, are usually a type of acrylic paint or non oil based paint that, uh, drives to a chalky matte finish, Matt, meaning no shine. Usually it will adhere to almost anything, and there's no prep work necessary, meaning it will stick to almost anything without primer. Ah, let's see one of the other characteristics you usually seal it with. Ah, type of wax. Some people seal there's with oil. It can be sealed with other types of sealers, and some of these paints don't need any sealer at all, depending on the application of what you're using the piece for. Do not confuse this type of paint with chalk board paint. Chalkboard paint is usually clearly said, has the name board on the paint, and it is designed to paint onto a piece, and then you can drawn it with chalk to actually make a chalkboard. This part right here is actually painted with a chalk finished type paint. So two different things when you are purchasing them. Make sure if you see talk board, then don't get that kind unless you're trying to make a chalkboard. If you're wanting to paint your furniture in a chalk paint type style, get something that's that says chalk in the name but is not attended for a board. There's another type of paint out there that is called milk paint, and you can achieve similar results, as in painting a country type or antique distressed type finish. Uh, but it's not the same as chalk. Paint it, uh, it does very well on raw wood or unfinished. Would it sort of soaks in a little bit? And it almost almost like a stain. It actually needs more prep work for it to adhere to the wood, meaning. If you were to paint something that was already prefinished, you would need to sand that finish in order for the milk paint to adhere to it. You will also find on the Internet a lot of recipes for D. I Y. Chalk paint. So what this usually is is a flat latex paint or, some people say, use any latex paint with a certain amount of calcium carbonate or plaster of Paris mixed into it. A lot of people swear by this and say that it's just the same Iztok pain only a lot cheaper . So there's a reason why I wouldn't recommend this, and it's basically because you can't get consistent results with a recipe like this. It doesn't mean that it won't work some of the time. But because the paint manufacturers all have their own different formulas, flat paint from one Mac manufacturer is not exactly the same as flat paint from another manufacturer. So you're really not taken the same base material. If you're taking an adding a couple of tablespoons of plaster of Paris to it and a little bit of water, it may work for you or it may not work as well for you. And that's because there are differences in the basic material that you're starting with so this can work can be effective. But it's something that I would only recommend if you were doing some experimentation and you came up with something that you got consistent results that you liked. Then I think it's fine if it works for you, great more power to you. I wouldn't recommend going out as a first timer and buying this and putting it on a dresser that you hoped you were going to make an heirloom out of. I think that it's too risky to do it that way, but it is possible 4. Lecture3: Okay, let's talk about what type of things you can paint. One of the most common things that people paint is old furniture, so I have here A It's actually a Cabinet drawer front, but like most furniture that has been stained, it has a stain and a some type of a sealer that's on it. So this is something that is done frequently, and you can achieve really great results. With that. You'd also paint various objects that you find maybe at the secondhand store or you may already have around your house. This is Ah, it had a mirror in it, but the mere broke uhm, I'm going to repeat repainting it. It's plastic, and the chalk based finishes will stick to the plastic rather well. Another type of material that it sticks to pretty well is resin based materials. This is it's meant to look like would work. But it is something that is actually molded out of some type of resin, and you can find a lot of these, uh, decorative objects that are resin based, so back to the plastic. Uh, this is actually a frame that was the is plastic and it had a gold type finish on it, much like this other piece that I showed you. And this is a chalk finished type paint with some antique wax and sealed with wax. So that's an example of how how well that works. This is a metal piece, candle, candle holder, candelabra type thing. Uh, right now I believe that it is painted. Yeah, it's painted to look like some kind of ah metal with patina on it, which is kind of funny because a lot of if this were a black peace, you could easily paint it with the chalk based finished to make it look sort of like it was metal. Um, but if you want wanted, for instance, if you wanted, for instance for this to be, uh, blue or red or something like that, the chalk based paint will stick to this very well. You will also see a lot of glass that is painted with a chalk based paint. It sticks very well to glass and also will stick to ceramic pieces that actually have a shiny, glossy finish. It sticks to pretty well. Chalk paint also can be used on vinyl. I painted my kitchen chairs with vinyl last year. It has held up pretty well. My family is pretty hard on them. So we have a few scratches. Uh, but for the most part, for a rustic look, I'm pretty happy with it. You could also paint fabric with chalk paint. It sort of seeps in a little bit, and then you seal it with wax, and it has a type of, ah, leathery feel finished to it so you can see there's a whole world of possibility of things that you can paint with a chalk type finish. 5. Lecture 7: all right, Now comes the fun part. Finally, we're gonna paint something. So I've selected this piece because, as I said before, it kind of represents Ah, furniture piece that might have a, um, that it represents a furniture piece that will distress really beautifully. And we have a lot of detail, and it just ends up looking really beautiful. So that's why I chose this piece. It's a wall plaque which, um, you actually campaign all kinds of, you know, plaques for the wall picture frames. You know all sorts of other things, and it's the same basic process that applies to everything that you paint. So the first thing that you're going to dio is make sure that it is very clean, and I like to use simple green. Just get that nice and clean. You want to make sure, basically, that there is no oily residue, dirt dust, things stuck to it or sticky residue, and you will be ready to go. So I am using. Actually, this is Annie Sloan's. Old poker is the color that I'm going to use on this. It's always important to follow the paint manufacturer's instructions. They're not all exactly the same in how they tell you to stir them. Or, you know, some of them recommend shaking or not shaking. Some of them want you to turn the can upside down, Um, and so you need to follow the manufacturer's instructions for each type of paint that use. I'm not gonna go through that right now because it's different for everybody. It's all very similar. Usually, if I'm not sure which pain I'm using, I'm just grabbing one. I just will make sure it's stirred really well. But for best results, always follow the manufacturer's instructions. Okay, so this old Joker is kind of a, um, it's kind of it's more than an off white. It's a little bit more beige, but it's still a very light color. And so what I'm going to do is stick my paintbrush in there when you do a chalk paint type finish. If you're going to antique it with wax, which is what we're going to dio Um, you want you want to have brushstrokes in there because the brush strokes will provide some texture to pick up the wax when you put your dark wax in there, so we have a little bit of texture, like I said earlier because of the wood grain. Um And, uh So the one of the reasons why I really like this type of pain is because you don't have to be so careful and you're not trying to do some smooth glass like finish. You are just kind of slapping and scrub in the paint on there. Which really appeals to me because you can get beautiful results without having to be so careful and so perfect all the time. And that's what I like about this. So another thing about these kind of brushes that are often sold for this type of finish is thes kind of round. Um, brushes Are there just good for, uh, scrubbing into little corners and things like that? So we're just trying to get a good code on here. Now you will see a lot of brushstrokes, and you will see some of the finish underneath. Um, most of these types of paints do take, um, two coats now. See, this is where having gloves would come in handy, but I just get paint on my hands all the time. That's it's. Most of these manufacturers do advertise that they're non toxic and it's a water based paint, and so it's not likely to hurt you much. It's not likely to hurt you, but I will again check with the manufacturer's instructions. If they say, Don't touch the paint and don't touch the pain. Okay, so now I'm going to go wash my brush out. And like I said before, I am going to do a second coat with a different brush because I want to start with a dry, clean brush. I've already put one coat on this piece, and now I'm going to put a second coat. It's good and dry, so I'm going to paint it with a second coat. You notice that when I am applying the paint, I am painting in all different directions, and that is to give the peace more texture. Like I mentioned before. You should be careful about drips, but not worry too much about them because you can send them back a little bit. If you're not going for a perfectly smooth piece, you don't really have to worry so much about drips again. That's why I like this paint so much. It's so forgiving and don't we all need a little forgiveness sometimes. Okay. You can see that after you do a second coat, you're finish is gonna be a lot more opaque. The one thing I would I would watch out for is in the cracks and stuff. Here, you can have a tendency to have pools of paint, and you don't want to have any puddles anywhere. So be careful to get rid of those. And they're in my coat. I'll let that dry now. And there's my second coat. I'll let that dry now. 6. Lecture4: Okay, let's talk about tools and supplies that you will need to do your project. First thing you're gonna need is some type of a cleaner. I really like simple green. Um, you just need something that's going to be able to get it nice and clean and get the, uh, the grease off of it. Or sometimes you might have. Ah, sticker has been on it. You want to get that residue off, so just needs to be nice and clean, And I just would use wash, cloth or rag to do that. The next thing they're gonna need a some sandpaper. You don't really need to use this to prep the peace, but you will use it if you want to do any distressing. And if you can't get some residue off or something like that, you might use a little bit of sandpaper to do that. Uh, I usually use this is 120 medium smooth. Sometimes I use more course if I really want to get a lot of pain off. But be careful with the coarse sandpaper because you can really get a lot of scratches in your finish. And unless that's what you're looking for. Sometimes it could be a little bit more distressed that it doesn't look like the paint warren off. It looks like you literally scratch it off with sandpaper, so I usually use a medium grade. Alright, it's time for my magic brush box, so I have a whole lot of different brushes. Some of them, um this one happens to be a me Howard at home. You This is a wax brush that I use. I really like that one. Some of these are that this one is made by Kraft Smart, which is one of the craft store brands. Let's see. Looks like that one's made from, Ah, home decor. Chalk that one. This is made by plaid. This is Kraft smart. The main thing that you need to remember is you can apply your paint with any brush that you want. Uh, but the reason why these these brushes are designed for this type of paint just because of the way that they load paint and ah, you can get a lot of coverage with them and, um, the manufacturers a slightly different on their interpretation of that. But the one thing you want to remember is that you want to have separate brushes for painting and separate brushes for wax. This is my clear wax brush, and I like this short little bristle because I get in there and really scrub around with it . This is my dark wax brush, and you don't want to mix those two because you will start to mix the dark wax and the clear wax, and you won't get the finish that you're looking for. So just remember separate paint and separate wax. Um, a traditional paint brushes. You can use this, especially if you decide that you want to have a smoother finish. It's fine to use these to, um, you can use any paintbrush you want. The one, uh, one thing that you should be careful of is when you're using these type of brushes. If you use a cheap one, you are gonna lose little hairs all the time, and it will get stuff in your paint, and it's really aggravating, so you can feel free to use them. Just know that the cheaper your brush that, but just just know that the cheaper your brush, the riskier it is for losing hairs and getting them stuck in your paint. All right, so there's brushes. You are going to need a drop cloth or some newspapers spread out and have a drop cloth on my table here. Yes, you can paint indoors the paint. Uh, most of this paint you want to check with the manufacturer, but most of the pain is non toxic, and it doesn't need any ventilation when it dries and as long as you have your area protected because it will stick just about anything. Uh, it's fine to paint indoors. You're also going to need some rags, and the best rags are made of ah Mitt T shirt type material. And if you buy these big, umm packages of painters rags from the hardware store most of time, that's what they're made out of is just like a bunch of old T shirts. Or you can use old T shirts from around your house. Gloves are optional. I don't use them, so I don't really have the right kind of gloves. I just I'm showing you my dish gloves as the type that I would not recommend. You can use them, they'll protect your hands, but they're kind of floppy and will get in your way. If you use gloves, I would recommend that you get a stretchy latex type glove that will stick stick closer to your skin so that you actually have the manual dexterity to work freely on your piece. I usually just get paint all over my hands, and you're going to need access to water I use if I'm out painting in the garage. I usually just get a couple buckets of water handy to wash my brushes out. Or you need to have access to a sink to wash your brushes. Uh, I have found that most of the paint that I use some of it has a little bit more longer drawing time. But most of the time, if I try to Ziploc, my bad. If I try to put my paintbrush in a Ziploc bag and keep it till I want to do the second coat . Most of the time I end up with paint stuck all up in the top of my brush here. That's hard to get out starts to dry on me, so I recommend that you usually wash it when you're done with it and, um, but when you go to do a second coat, I wouldn't use the same brush. I would get a separate paintbrush and start with a dry brush. Otherwise, your, um, your brush may still have a little bit of paint in it, especially if you're switching colors that you'll mix colors. But, ah, lot of times it's just the moisture will end up having your paint beef thinner than then you want it to be, um, which is fine if you want to get more coverage out of it. Thinning it down is not gonna hurt it. But I just find that for best results, I like a clean, dry paintbrush when I start. 7. Lecture5: Okay, Now let's talk about selecting pieces to paint. I'm going to use this piece right here as a sample piece for the class. The reason I chose this is this really lends itself well to distressing. And, um, just turns out really beautiful with a chalk finish type paint on. The reason is, it has a lot of texture in it already. You can see the wood, uh, wood grain in it, and then also it with when you have an ornate design that will, when you have an ornate design and you want to, uh, do an antiqued type finish the dark waxes will stick down in all the little crevices. And then if you want even to go back with some do some gold highlights or any other kind of highlights, it's really easy to do it in the raised areas. So, um, looking for something with a lot of details can make really beautiful furniture. Got another example here. This is actually a door front from a piece that I think was made maybe in the seventies or something. But the reason why I would choose something like this is again because of all the detail that's in it. And the talk finishes, Really. The chalk finishes a really good at bringing out a lot of detail. Um, other things for up. Thanks, heavy. Other things that you should look for are, of course, structural integrity. You want a piece? Um, that it's going to be nice when you finish it. Unless you have furniture repair skills. I would avoid pieces where the drawers when you pull them out. If the runner is broken and they sort of fall when you pull them out, things like that just think about think about not trying to rescue something that is beyond your capability. Another thing that's fun to look for is something that you can repurpose uh, to something else. Like, Ah, lot of people like to take old windows and make picture frames out of them or actually, uh, deconstructed piece a little bit and, um, connected to another piece and make a completely different type of furniture again. That's something that requires some woodworking skills, but those could be really, really neat pieces. Um, I think basically, you just want to look for anything that you think it has good good bones sort of speak um a , uh something that design wise looks attractive, but the finish is either warn or just kind of an ugly or outdated type. Look, um, but really, they're The possibilities are endless for the kind of things that you can paint and you can transform, so be creative. 8. Lecture6: We're going to review four different kinds or name brands of paint that I have used specifically these air paints that I can recommend and vouch for, uh, the quality of the finish that you'll get. That doesn't mean that there aren't other good paint brands out there. Uh, it just means that these are the ones that I use, um and have used extensively and feel very confident about recommending. I will have a bit of advice at the end of this review about what type of paint you use. So the 1st 1 that we're gonna talk about is any Sloan. And like I said, she is. Actually, when you say chalk paint, it's actually a trademarked name brand for Annie Sloan. So it's sort of become like Kleenex like Kleenex is a tissue, but Kleenex is actually a brand of a tissue, so it's sort of become like that, especially if you look on Pinterest everybody that that, uh, pin something that says chalk paint doesn't necessarily mean that they used Annie Sloan's. But it's this type of finish that they're speaking of. That being said, Annie Sloan's paint is excellent paint. She's been around for a very long time as a decorative painter and painting furniture. She really knows her stuff. And this this paint is an excellent paint. This is actually a can of wax that I'm holding right here, but it has her her brand logo on it. So that's a good paint. Another one e actually have some of her waxes this, actually. Oh, that's a Annie Sloan. My paint cans. I messed up my paint and, um, my paint cans, and so I had to put it in new cans so they're not. They don't have the labels on him. Um, Amy Howard is another brand Amy Howard at home. Her paint is called one step paint, but it is the same genre or type of paint where there's no prep, no real prep involved, and it will stick to almost anything, and you can distress it and use it in a similar manner. So it I would consider it a chalk based Storchak type paint. This is a can of her wax, which you'll see that, uh, the different manufacturers ah, have a little bit different angle on the wax, and some of its thick some of its cream ease of its greasy. So, um, it's all a little bit different, but it all does basically the same thing when you use it to seal a piece. The next brand that I could recommend is Rustoleum. I haven't used their chalk based type paint, but what I uses something called Cabinet transformations. And this is something that I used in my kitchen cabinets. It's been there for probably almost six years now doesn't require any real preparation other than cleaning. There's no sanding or anything involved, and it also will adhere to laminate type cabinets or furniture, for that matter. They have a kit that's that's designed specifically for furniture also, and it's really the basically the same thing in a smaller package because you don't need so much for one piece of furniture. Uh, this paint is a little bit thinner than a lot of the chalk paints, and so if you want something that doesn't have a lot of texture in it, then this kind of paint would would work well. It also works very well on wood grained uh pieces such as oak, because the oat grain is very, very noticeable and has kind of some grooves in it. So when you use their antique ing product, which is not a wax, it's Ah, it's ah glaze. When you use that, it sticks in the oak grain very well, but you can also do an antique ing type look without the, um, a grain by just, uh, pulling it in a certain direction. But it has all the instructions, and they're like little videos that come with it, too. But it I'm just mentioning it. It's not a chalk based paint or sold as a chalk paint, but I can tell by the smell of it and the performance that it's a very similar type paint. And if you want to do an antique look, it's another option that you could use. And the thing that is similar about it is that there is really no prep other than cleaning , So the craft store brands very a lot. Uh, I'm going to actually in a little bit go through a cost analysis of all these paints so that you can see really what where the value is. Uh, it appears Aziz, though the craft store brands are less expensive, but in fact most of them are just sold in smaller containers, an ounce for ounce. They're very similar prices. Some of the brands that I found in the craft stores have been really great, and other ones I have not been that excited about so, and they seem to change their brands frequently to like some brands that I used to find in a certain store I can't find anymore. You will find a number of different uh versions of a chalk based type paint, and they'll have chalk somewhere in the name but not talk board. Remember, it's it should say Chalky talk finished, talked something like that. Also, the craft stores have. This is Waverly Waverly Inspirations wax, Um, a lot of times to the wax that you find it. The Craft Stores is a liquidy kind of wax, but it's and you painted on and and buffet with a cloth just like I will show you with the other waxes. But, um, very similar again, meant to be used in the same way. Well, um, any Sloan came out to about a dollar nine Announce Amy Howard, Amy Howard at home. One step paint came out to about a dollar six announce Americana decor, which is a craft store brand was a dollar 12 announce and home decor. Chalk paint came in at 99 cents an ounce. That's another craft store brand. And, um, those two I have used and actually had some pretty decent results with. So if you want to buy a smaller container of something and, uh, try it out on something, those would be good choices. Valspar, which it has a ah chalk type. I think it might be called chalked or something like that that they sell at the home improvement store. And it came in at a dollar three. Actually, the least expensive was Rustoleum chalked, which is was 56 cents announced. So it actually is the least expensive chalk type finished paint that I found. Now I haven't used that specific paint, but I've used the rest only, um, cabinet transformations. And Rustoleum is a brand that I've used a lot of spray paints and various other paints, and I'm always pretty happy with Rustoleum. They're pretty solid brand. So if you wanted to try something less expensive, I would give that one a try. So now you have an idea of the different manufacturers that are out there and they're paint is all very similar, but not exactly the same. You kind of have to play around and decide which ones you like best. Everybody that does this type of paint or painting has their own preference for the type of products they like to use. I really highly recommend Annie Sloan and Amy Howard at home. Those were the two that I have used the most mixed in with a little bit of craft store brands. But if you wanted a sure thing, you can always rely on those two brands that I mentioned. 9. Lecture8: now that we have the second coat completely dry and again, always follow your manufacturer's instructions for the drying time. Okay, uh, we're going to start with a little bit of distressing before we do any waxing. So there's two ways to distress this kind of paint. The first way I'm going to show you is wet, distressing, and we'll take a washcloth. I like to use washcloths because they have this kind of rough texture to them, and it will grab the paint and you get them wet, and then you're just going to go over the areas that you want to distress, which is when you distress that you're going to remove some of the paint showing either the wood below or if you've done multiple layers of paint, it will show part of the color below. So in this case, we have a dark wood finish under it that I'm tryingto reveal a little bit. So you kind of are gonna scrub a little bit like this. You see how that is starting to remove paint, and you can do this when the paint is dry. But I wouldn't let it sit for several days because it might be harder to remove if it's a little more cured. In this case, it's just 100% dry. But not, um, cured. Oops. I squeeze my wash cough. Got a little, A little bit of drip there. I don't You don't want it to drip. You want to have, Ah, a damp cloth, but not a kind of a soupy drippy cloth. You don't want that? How it's what you're trying to do here is mimic the natural wearing down over time. If this had come in contact with some elements or a lot of I don't know touching are bumping up against things or things like that. Okay, so that is wet. Distressing. Now I'm going to show you distressing with a sandpaper. And so, uh, just take your piece of sandpaper and you're gonna do basically the same thing. You're gonna hit the high edges where you want some of that to come. Ops, You know, that comes off a lot more quickly, and some depending on the kind of sandpaper using it could be a little more scratchy looking. So be careful how rough your sandpaper is. So I'm also gonna do a little few pieces, a few spots, kind of on the interior there. So when you're distressing, you always want to try to hit uh, points that would naturally be distressed, like edges of things. But, like sometimes you'll see a little bit of distressing in areas that are probably are going to get that much where. But it's really up to you. What kind of a look you like with your distressing? So the one of the advantages of the wet distressing is it's much less messy than the dry distressing you based on their sanding a layer off, and it's pretty messy. Okay, now I have my piece distressed, and the next thing that we're going to do is put some wax on it. So at this stage, you can use a clear wax. Most of the craft stores will sell a clear wax and a dark wax. Uh, Annie Sloan has a clear wax, a dark wax and a black wax Ah, in a white wax. The last time I checked those for the color she had, uh, Amy Howard at home has a clear wax and a dark wax and also a light antique wax. And I like to use this one for my first code instead of a clear wax. Um, it just has a little just a little bit of Ah, I don't know what to call it is an antique e color. It's, um it's a little bit of a tent to it, so it's not white. It's just so, um, it just kind of adds a first layer of depth. And so I like to use the light. One. You can see the light. One is It's kind of a beige color. Groups of the dark one's pretty dark, and then I had a clear looks white in the can, but it's actually clear. Okay, So, like I said before, she likes you, too. But offload the wax onto a pizza cardboard so that you don't get too much wax on your piece . I rarely do this. I usually just wipe it off a little bit after I apply the wax, when you put the wax on your just really just trying to scrub it into every little crack and crevice and what happens is the wax soaks into the paint, and then when it dries and hardens, it seals the surface, and it's no longer, greasy, and it's kind of smooth and a little bit hard. Not sure how well you can see it on the camera, but it is starting to take on just a little bit of darker color, kind of a deeper color that lightens up a little bit as it drives. But for the most part, you are going to deepen the color. If I do a lot of this furniture finishing my my hand and my wrist will get sore from all of the scrubbing and painting. So I have to take a break sometimes from it. No, it's starting to feel the pieces feeling just a little bit kind of tacky, waxy or greasy. And that's kind of what it feels like when the wax is on it. You just want to make sure that it is completely covered. Okay, so I'm gonna take my, uh, I'm gonna take my clean rag here T shirt rag, and I'm gonna kind of wipe off a little bit of excess, although there really isn't much. But I'm kind of trying to shove it into the corners here to make sure that I got the sealer in to everything crack and crevice, and I just wipe it just a little bit lightly. There really isn't much excess on it. So I now I need to let it dry, according to the manufacturer, which is Amy Howard at home, and follow her timing. And then I will come back and buffet. Now that your piece has dried, we can go ahead and buffet, so you'll notice that it feels just a little bit kind of waxy and tacky. And when you start to buffet, you're going to apply a little bit of pressure. But you'll notice that that tacky sort of feeling goes away and it starts to feel kind of smooth. And what you're doing is actually compressing the top layer of the wax down. And I don't think you can see it very well on camera in this piece. But it does start to take on kind of a sheen when you buff it and then you feel it. It's it's it doesn't have that drag on it anymore. It's nice and smooth, so that's how you can tell if you're doing it correctly now that you have your piece buffed , Uh, you can stop right here if you like. this look. It's protected now with the wax, then it has some distressing. It looks antiqued. And if you like it this way, then you're done. If you would like it to have a little bit mawr depth and a little bit more, um, age to look, then you can apply some dark wax. So again, I'm using the Amy Howard at home. Amy Howard Wax is a little bit Carter than the any Sloan Wax is. I don't have the dark wax here. It's more of a soft, creamy wax. But the general application is pretty much the same thing. You're gonna put it on and then wipe it back. I like to use this wax in a way that, um, you sort of feather it on and it sticks in the cracks. Well, you can't really do that with Annie Sloan's wax because it's too soft and creamy. So that's one of the reasons why I like to use this wax a lot. So I am using a dark wax brush. Remember to use a separate brush for the light wax and the dark wax, so what I'm gonna do is just kind of start feathering it on a little bit like this, and it just starts toe catch in some of the crevices. You can wipe it back a little bit if you feel like you get too much on the other. Trick is, when you're doing the dark wax is if you feel like you have too much, rub your cloth in some of the clear wax and then rub onto it. It will actually pull it back up. So one of the reasons why you want to have your your first coat dried and buffed is so that you don't mix the dark wax into the to the lighter wax and you're actually applying it on top. So you just kind of feather over like this. It will kind of catch in the high points, and you could just play around with it to apply, however much you like until it looks the way you want it. Teoh. There is a bit of an art to this, and no two pieces are ever the same. And no to furniture painters ever achieved the exact same results. Everybody does something just slightly differently, not used to working at an angle above it like this, and usually can see what I'm doing a little bit better, but for the purposes of demonstration, trying to show you what I'm doing. I don't know how well it shows on camera, but it is getting quite a bit darker with this wax. - Another reason why I like the Amy Harrad wax, is because Aiken whips out a big chunk. I can build it up really slowly and kind of I feel like I have a little bit more control over what I'm doing. Okay, Now, if I want to can pull it back in some areas just a little bit. Let's see how put it on Mr Dark. So this area right here, I'm going to pull it back a little bit with some clear wax, you know, right in the middle there, the clear wax removed. Kind of a little spot right there. I'm just going to even that out a little bit more. It's kind of nice to be able to pull some back case. You get it on a little too heavy, pull it off a little bit on some of these higher points. So the idea of the darker waxes actually to mimic the dust and grime and stuff of age that would get stuck in a piece. So you really are trying to make it look a little bit dirty with this type of antique ing. Some people prefer just a white chippy look without much dark wax on it at all. So it's really up to you. Okay, I think I am satisfied with how this piece looks, so the next step is toe. Let this dry until it's feel slightly tacky following the manufacturer's instructions, and then we will buff this to a find sheen. 10. Lecture9: If you have applied wax to your piece, it is now fully protected, and you're done. If you have decided that you do not want to use wax, and you want to use a different type of sealer like a water based, uh, I want to call it a shellac. But that's not what it is, but a traditional sealer that you paint on a wet liquid. And then it dries. I would go with the sealers that are designed for the products that you're using. Uh, if you just paint and distress and don't wax, then most water based sealers will do a decent job ceiling that, if you use wax, is a sealer. Its recommended to reseal it from time to time, especially in areas like a kitchen or bathroom. Some people are against using chalk based paint finishes in bathrooms and kitchens because they do not like the performance of the wax as a sealer on the products. I have used these products in my bathrooms, and they seem to be holding up just fine. I would always use more coats of any type of sealer that you're using in the areas that are expected to have Mawr, where such as around a cabinet or drawer poll wax on top of furniture works just fine, except that that furniture is a little more susceptible to water damage. And some people don't like to have it on top of their furniture, because if they use any kind of a cleaner on it, like if you have small kids or your dismiss, see uh, and you need to use a cleaner. It tends to strip the wax off, and so it's not as durable. So again you have to think of What are you using this piece for? If it's heavy use and water, I would lean towards not using the waxes and using some sort of a water based sealer that's a little more permanent. 11. Lecture10: there you have it. We're done with the class. I hope I've given you enough information. About what? Chalk paint. Iztok finish paint is what kind of tools you need. What you can paint. Ah, basic way of applying it. How to protect your piece. And a little bonus document is included on how to care for your brushes and store the paint . Well, now it's up to you. What are you going to paint? What are you going to create? I look forward to hearing from you and seeing the pieces that you create. And as always, if you have any questions, don't hesitate to get in touch. Thank you again. So much for taking this class happy painting.