Popping Florals: An Introduction to Modern Stumpwork Embroidery | Luisa Castellanos | Skillshare

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Popping Florals: An Introduction to Modern Stumpwork Embroidery

teacher avatar Luisa Castellanos, Embroidery Artist and Teacher

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

8 Lessons (56m)
    • 1. Intro

      0:45
    • 2. Materials

      2:29
    • 3. Transfer

      6:43
    • 4. Part 1: The Leaves

      6:42
    • 5. Part: 2 Wired Slips

      13:36
    • 6. Part 3: Filling the Petals

      13:29
    • 7. Part 4: Mounting the Flower

      9:53
    • 8. Part 5: Finishing Touches

      1:56
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About This Class

In this class you will learn the basics of stumpwork embroidery.

Starting with basic materials, essential stitches like: fishbone stitch, couching, buttonhole stitch , split stitch, long and short stitch and french knot. Creating wired slips and thread painting techniques. 

Beginner to Advanced: This class is for everyone who wants to learn embroidery techniques and enjoys a good hoop talking session

Once you complete the project you will be able to create your own dimensional embroidery designs and add volume to all your embroidery projects!

Materials:

-2 embroidery hoops (one 6” hoop and one 8” hoop) the 8” hoop preferably made of wood for a better looking frame.

-2 pieces of cotton or linen fabric  (one 8x8” square, and one 10x10” square)

-Embroidery needle

-Scissors (preferably fabric or thread scissors)

-Embroidery floss (stranded cotton). Any colors you wish but consider the following: 3 different shades green, 3 different shades of any color you want from light to dark for the flower

-20 gauge jewelry or craft wire

-Wire cutter

-Pliers

-Backing fabric (optional)

Meet Your Teacher

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Luisa Castellanos

Embroidery Artist and Teacher

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Transcripts

1. Intro: Hello, my name is Louisa Castellanos and I'm an embroidery artists from Bogota, Colombia. In this class, you will learn how to create three-dimensional or stomp arc embroidery pieces while working on creating this beautiful pop and floral. After you finish this class, I promise you, all your work will stand out and pop, literally. Pop. Welcome to my class. Join me in the next lesson for our materials. Let's get stiff gin. 2. Materials: Hello and welcome back. In this lesson, we'll review some of the materials you'll be using in this class and some recommendations. I personally love. For our projects. You'll need two hoops, 16 inch, preferably plastic, because in this one we will be doing all the stump work and we need really nice tension. And then the other one, the 18 shop, could be either plastic or wooden. I prefer wooden because I can mount my piece in it at the end and I don't need to frame it. I just use this. You'll also need three shades of any color. I chose this purplish pink. And you need a dark emit tone and a light color of it for the flower. You'll also need a dark green, a medium green, and a light green for the leaves, and a contrasting color. I chose yellow for my French nods at the bud of the ROCE also need tool squares of fabric. Preferably Ireland, before the small one doesn't need to be ironed or perfect because this one is going to be completely covered by the petals. So you don't really need to learn this one, but this one, this is the final piece one. This one does need to be ironed. This is a ten inch square and this is an eight inch square. You'll be cutting this one later on when we finish our flower petals or the stump work petals, you'll need a 20 gauge jewelry wire. Any colors fine. You'll need wire cutters and flyers you'll also need, and this is one of my favorite scissors, just simple embroider threat scissors. This is an optional piece. I love it. This is my redder. Its clover through editor. And an embroidery needle with a sharp point. You can also use an embroidery needle like this one. Dmc carries them. But the problem with this one is for the stumper, you need very precise stitching. And so I prefer sharp needles for that. 3. Transfer: In this video, we're gonna talk about how to transfer our designs. Now there are several ways to do this. In the class resources, you'll find a PDF print out with the two images for you to trace or free hand. And you'll also find a complete list of materials used in the class so that you can purchase them beforehand. The way you frame up your fabric does, your Coop has two hoops, inner hoof and one outer hold with the screw on top. So what you'll do is you'll place the inner hoop on the table. Place your fabric nice and centered on the edges to clamp your hoops together. Stretcher fabric, make sure it's nice and taut. And start timing yours group. This might take a while. Psalms grooves are larger than others, so they may take longer to type. But the important thing is that your fabric is nice and tight and that it sounds like a drone. Could use a little bit more tension. I love these kinds of hoops because they clamp the fabric together within the holes of the hoop. And so it allows for a perfect tension there. And you're gonna do the same with your other hoop. So again, you place your inner hoops under your fabric. And the other one is thought on top. And you start screwing it in and tight. Check your fabric tension. Now the problem with wooden hoops is that they look beautiful for mounting. But when you're working on a piece that requires a lot of tension, like for the pedals on the stumper Project tends to get loose along the way very easily. So it is hard to maintain a good tension needed for embroidered. In this case, we're just gonna do the leaves on this one, so it doesn't really need a lot of tension and you're gonna do them slowly. So just be mindful of that and every so often and just check your attention and adjusted accordingly. Alright, now we're all set. We're going to transfer our design. So now that you have your hoops ready, what you'll need to transfer is you need either to print out your designs that you can find in the Resources tab. Or you can use a tablet like I'm just going to show you, this is a neat trick. I learned an adsorbed, eco-friendly. You don't need any printing and you can adjust the size to fit your hope. So the way to do this in the iPad, on the accessibility tab, you go all the way down to guided axis. You turn that on, and that's it. Then you go to your pictures. You'll find the picture that you are going to transfer. These are the petals that go in the small Hope. And as you can see, these pedals are all spread out. You need this space. Because when you cut the fabric, you're gonna need room to cut. So this is the way to transfer it. And what you'll do is you'll press three times and press Start. It'll ask you for your passcode. And it started. What you'll do is you'll, you'll, you're going to place your hope on top of the iPad and using an erasable pen or pencil, anything you have on hand, you're just going to loosely trace each petal. These do not have to be perfect because nature isn't perfect. So don't worry of data look exactly like the drawing. Just be mindful of having a safe distance between the petals. That's the most important part because it'll allow you to move and stitch alone. Alright, so now I have my petals and what I'll do is I'll unscrew my hope again and flip the fabric over to the other site. Is a good practice for your hooping skills. And oh, here, let me show you easy held this last stick, 2p has this like indent. That's what catches the fabric alongside this outer dent. And so what it does, it helps keep the tension very, very tight for our loop because the stump Berg pedals flips and was gonna do the exact same stuff. Or pedals need to be very, very tight in order for this teaching to be nice. Alright, so just make sure everything's nice and tight, centered. And you're all set. Now, do the same thing, the same process, and transfer your leafs. And I'll see you back here to start stitching beliefs with the fishbone stitch. 4. Part 1: The Leaves : Next video lesson, we will begin by stitching our lease using the fishbone stitch. For this, you'll need our three tones of green. You're like tone, your midtone, and your dark tone. You'll also need your needle, scissors and optional your threads. Now, for this video lesson, what you'll need is first, we're going to cut our floss. And about an arm's length. Like this. You know, cut each of the strands the same size in each of the colors. We're going to separate two strands. Just take two of the strands and pull. So if you have a thread or just place your needle inside the thread like this. Place your floss inside like this. And just pull. Now what we're gonna do is we're going to do the cultures, not to do the soldiers, not you just take your needle, take your other end of the floss, make across, Hold it and turn three times. C. Again. Just make your costs on the top. 123. Hold your turns and pull down. And that's it. You got your floss threaded. So now that you earth threaded and ready to go, we'll begin our stitching. So I went ahead and started off this leaves so that you know what to expect when you start stitching. But you're gonna do the exact same stitching in all three leaves. So when did you show you the effect of the three threads? String stranded together? And I'm just gonna pull this a little bit closer so you can look and you can see all the three shades and how they blend really nice together to make the lease. To begin, where you're going to do is start at the top of one of the 0s. Then you're gonna go all the way down the middle, like to about the middle of the leaf. And you do it a little bit shorter or longer. It doesn't really matter. At this. This is a good length. And then leaving a space, you're gonna come up. On on the top again, even across over two right next to that stitch were thus situ ended. And now since you came down this way, you need to come up right here next to it, but on the opposite side of the initial line. And then you're going to crossover. And again you're going to leave a space, come down. The fish bones stitch. It's it's done in zigzag. So so if you came down this way, you need to come up this way, like on the opposite end. So like the movement, it's kinda like up across the side, across the side, across the side, cross, and so on and so forth. And not be mindful of your tension because it might get loose. And I'm gonna show you how to put it on the back, find one of the corners in your leaf and go in. And since your thread is really, really short, pull it with with the head of the needle, not the point, but like the head and Titan. And you can just unthreaded and pull. And then if you want to make sure it's nice and tight, because just do is take three strands on each side and just make a regular neural. And that'll keep it nice and secure. I'm just going to cut this extra string on this side. Turn my hope again. And now what I'll do is I'll finish this leaves just so that you can see. And once you've finished this video, just go ahead and finish all three leaves with the same stitch. And we'll see you back for our pedals and we'll start working on our wired slips for the petals of the flower. 5. Part: 2 Wired Slips: Hello, welcome back. I have now finished. Mine leaves with my fishbone stage and my three shades of green. And what I'm gonna do now is I'm going to start working on setting up the wire slips for my petals in my flower. So what you need for this part is your craft wire, your wire cutters, pliers, and the darkest shade of your other color. In my case, like this sort of fuga, dark fuga, sort of grap colour. And what I'm gonna do first is I'm gonna take my wire. And I'm going to measure one of the pedals. Leaving a tail. You have to leave a tail of about ninja and a half more. So it doesn't have to be an exact measurement, but eyeball it come like an inch and a half. And then you start just with your finger, you start shaping it. You can also use your wire, your pliers. If it's easier, I just prefer to do it with my fingers. And then what I do is I fix it with the pliers. So I used sort of doesn't have to be perfect. But make sure to cut the same length right there with your wire cutters there. So that's my first slip. Start fixing it up. With the flyers. They said it doesn't have to be perfect. But just to make sure it goes as close to your pedal shape as possible. You can fix it once you start embroidering over it. There. Alright, I'm pretty happy with that. Perfect. So I'm gonna leave this here on the site. Make sure my fabric case nice and tight. And I'm going to cut my gravy color and have three strands on a work with three strands all throughout this project, I'm always going to work with restaurants. You're going to work with all sakes, but it's gonna look a little bulky. So I recommend it only three strengths. And i'm going to thread my needle. And again I'm going to tie. My culture is not leaving out short tail. And that's it. Now what I'm gonna do is I'm going to place my wire on top of my pedal. And I'm going to begin on this side. So I'm going to come up really close to the end. I want to go over the wire and into pretty much the same hole. Doesn't have to be the same all but pretty close to it. And make sure you're aware is caught in between the thread like that. Hoofs. That again, it got a little trolled, it's ok. You can always go back and this part is pretty easy. So now go back to making sure your words pretty much in the position you want it. And you're gonna come up about half an inch to almost an inch. It doesn't really matter this bar like the distance for this part just, you know, every every so often just come up and catch. This is just for securing the wire. We're going to use the button hole stitch to cover the wire completely. So I don't really need to worry about the length of which of these stitches, this couching stitches is just couching. Couching the wire down to the fabric. There we go. Maybe one here. I always like to couch at the curvy ends. Like for example, here in major, everything's nice and tight. On the back. You don't have any loose? Nope. Oh, good. Nice and tight. And so what I'd like to do is I like to couch this part to kinda like secure the, the ligand and of the pedal. And same here, see how I have to adjust my wire. So make sure you're gauges not that thick so that you can work with a wire with your bare hands so that you don't have to go back and forth with with the pliers. That's just dumb. There we go. I'm going to finish couching this pedal. So what I wanna do in this video is, in this class is I'm gonna go through the process of one petal. It's the same process for all petals. So I'm just going to go working on one betel for the entire class. And then when I show you the end result, you will see all the pedals finished. Throughout the videos, you will only see one petal being worked on because like I said, the steps are exactly the same for all petals. So it doesn't really matter if you see all the pedals throughout the process or just a one there. Alright, I finished. So as easy a finished on this side and my wires a little short rate here, doesn't really matter as long as you have a tail, it doesn't have to be an exact match on both ends. You can just, you know, always cut this one to kind of match the other side. As long as you have a tail, you're good to go. So now what I'm gonna do is I'm going to flip this over and I want to show you. So you ended up on this side now on the same like horizontal line. But on the opposite side of the wire you are going to come out like this. So make sure you're coming up on the opposite end. Yes, I am. And I'm also making sure I am coming up on this side of the wire, on the outside of the wire and stepping on my couching my first couching stitch. So nice, nice and taut right there. What I'm gonna do is I'm going to go insert my needle on the inside in front of this stitch radio, but on the inside of the wires slip. And I'm gonna make this. You see how it looks? We, oops. We get you a close up so that you can see exactly what I'm talking about. So now that I have a loop right there, I'm going to come up between that loop, making sure I'm in the middle of the loop, but on the outside now of the wire and squeeze. And now you see it's just like a little loopy can like a chain covering the wire. So I'm gonna do that again. And I'm going to step inside and open up my loop right up on the outside of the wire and tighten. This is called a button hole stitch. You're gonna do this all around the pedal. So there we go, so that you can see the pedal. You're gonna go all around the metal. I wanted to stop back here to show you I am at the end of my thread. And so what you're going to do is stretch it like that. You're gonna come up. Come down. Sorry, not come down as if we were going to do the next stage and leave a loop. Now, carefully remove the needle and leave that hanging. What you're gonna do is you're going to prepare your next thread. Alright, so I have my three strands thread, my needle filters not ready. You're sure you're again, my pulsars known three. And you've got you're not ready. You're going to do is make sure when you come in between the loop as if you were going to finish your stitch and pull. Now you're gonna flip over your work and you're going to find, you gotta find your, sorry, that one. That's your new thread. And you're gonna take this one. You're gonna make your knot. But instead of pulling tight in order to make sure you're not as nice and even on the fabric. You're going to take your needle, your needle, their needle. You introduce it in the middle of the thread and you're gonna pull downwards towards the fabric. Sorry. This is a little tight. And there you go. They secure jurors thread. Nice. And even. So now that you have your needle so that it again you can teenage girl stitching up all the way around. So what I wanna do is stop the video here. And we're gonna finish going all the way around and giving you the time to do the same. In once your entire pedal wire is covered with the the darkest shade that you have. I'll see you back here to show you how to start stitching the inside of the pedal and the shading. Right. See you on the next lesson. 6. Part 3: Filling the Petals: Welcome back everyone. As promised, I finished my pedal with the button hole stitch. And now for our next step, we need to do a slip stitch all over the inside edge of our pedal. This will help us keep his attention nice and firm. When we start stitching are long and short stitches to fill in the inside of the petal. So I'm going to flip my hoop so that you can see I finished my button hole here. And what I'm gonna do is on this side I'm going to come up inside the pedal this time. See, I'm coming up inside the pedal. It doesn't really matter if you like, pinch the thread of the button hole stitch cuz you're gonna cut on the outer edge. So anything that happens on the inside is not really going to matter that much. Alright, first split stitch. There are two ways you can do it. The traditional way is just do a back stitch and up in the middle splitting the stitch. So that's one way to do it. What I like to do is do a back stitch. Come up about a little stitch length from your previous previous stitch and pinch it from the front towards the back of the hoop. This will allow a cleaner slip stitch. Got it a little bit closer for you to see. It allows for a cleaner edge. On the plus side, you can actually see what you're doing. Because when you're coming up from under the hoop, you can't really see in it. It's gonna take you longer to figure out where the middle is exactly. And I'm going to do this all over the pedal. They don't have to be perfect. This will just allow you an ancient, you're not gonna be able to see them. But it will allow you to keep a better attention when you are working your thread painting or along insured stitches inside the battle. So I'm gonna go all the way around and I'll see you guys back in a minute. When I'm all done. You see I have finished all my splits digital around. Now what I'm gonna do is I'm going to cast off, and I'm going to cast on. And to cast off. You just come up in the middle. Remember anything that happens in here, you're not going to be able to see it because of the way we're going to cover the pedal. So to cast off, you just need to do a little stitch. And another one that is perpendicular to that one can like splitting it. But from an angle. Yeah. Like a little tiny pale. And then you just, you know, come on the other side and you cut it really closely. You're not back in your needle. Just one because you're going to cut it. So it doesn't really matter. And to cast on where you're going to do is you're going to come up from the front. This time. This is called an invisible cast on or an invisible stitch. And you're gonna come up about coral. Like about a stitch length, let's say. Then a calm down again. At about a stitch length, you're gonna come up. And again you're gonna make a tiny little l. Alright? Now the next step is you're simply going to cut this non. You're gonna continue your stitching. Now. What I'm gonna do is I'm going to work three colors. So before start stitching weights, correct? Attention before I start stitching, going to kinda decide the length of my stitches. Now you can mark them if you want to or you can simply eyeball it. It doesn't really matter because you're going to be splitting in-between the fibers anyway. So you can just decide, but for my first color, my darkest color, which is the sort of a purplish pink. I'm going to begin at about that length. So I'm going to come up and I'm going to come down behind the splits ditch, but in front of the button holes ditch select right in between both stitches. And I'm going to come down right in the middle of the stitch. Now, remember, try to always aim your stitches towards this end of the flower petal. Like it fans out in an angle and it looks neater. So now what I'm gonna do is I came down this way. What I'm gonna do is I'm going to come up really close to my stitch, but shorter. I want to make sure it sure. So like about halfway. I'm gonna come down really close to it. Now. I'm going to do a long stitch, but this time in order to ensure that it is angled. I'm going to come up at the same length as the long one, but right on top of my short one. But I'm going to come down next to my short one. So I made sure to it starts handling when a calm at the middle and down again in between the stitches. And make my long one. Always kinda like stepping over my short one and lending next my short run and see I'm starting to cover my short one. It doesn't really matter if you coverage or not. It's just a nice way to ensure an angle. I so I'm gonna finish this side and I'll see you in a bit. So now I have finished the first half of my stitching. And we're gonna do the exact same thing on this side. But instead of covering it like this, I'm going to start covering my stitches like this because now I'm going to go on this side. So yeah, let me show you how to do this. But since we already have a long stitch this time we're going to start with a short stitch. Come up and down next to my stitch. And I'm gonna come up very close or almost on top of my previous stitch. Calm down next to it, and so on. And so what you do is you simply work it on this side, kind of like a mirror effect. Same stitching principle, one short, one long. So the long kinda like coming up on top of the previous one. And that's it. Now, once you complete that a dark color, which is our first color, you are going to begin to blend the colors downward. You can choose the length of each of your sections. You can even mark them down. Or like me, just eyeball it perfectly, okay. Either way you chew. So I have completed my top part of my pedal. And I'm going to begin with my invisible cast on again. Now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna come up at about the length, which is about here. Where I wanna be my, where I wanna put my first long stage, which is down in the middle. We're always going to work from the middle to the sides to ensure the right angle. Now what I'm gonna do is I'm going to show you how to blend colors from the mid tone to the dark. The same principle applies from the light tone to the mid tones. So I'm not gonna show you how to do that in the next lesson. What I'm going to show you is. How to finish up your petals. Ones, all your petals are completed. The principle for blending threads is very easy. You just come up, but what you're gonna do, you're gonna make sure you split your stitches. When you come down. You split the stitch. For this part, you didn't really have to do a long and short I like to do. I just connect to keep up. And you're going to split the stitch from above. So yeah, once you eliminate the first section, like once you complete the first section, the dark section. Your other sections are very easy. Because your first section sets the pace and the angle, and the state chain and everything. So now you're going to play with the length of your stitches, not so much at the bottom but at the top. See or shorter one here. And I want to come up short here, but long here. See how I'm playing with my stitch length. Because this part I'm going to cover with the next section. I don't really care how long or short this come up. But this section, this is the one I'm starting to create with my stitching. So this is the important section for me, like the top part of my petals. This is the one I have to be very mindful of where I'm placing my stitches so that it looks like in a zigzaggy way. So it doesn't look so even is the correct term. So I'm gonna go short here. And even how fast this next section goals like it's so shorter section to stitch show. So it goes faster. And the same principle applies on the other side. So you just complete the next two sections, meaning you complete your petals. And when. I'll see you back in the next lesson, all your petals should be completed. All the way completed. And I'll show you how to cut and assemble your flower. See you up in the next video. Happy stitching. 7. Part 4: Mounting the Flower: So I have finished my flour. I stitched all the petals using long and short stitch, like I showed you in the last video. And now I'm going to show you how to finish off this flower and mounted on the leaf hoop. So the first thing we're gonna do is we're gonna use glue or fray check or anything you have, like a fabric glue to kind of secure. Just adding a little bit of glue and securing all the nonce little depth glue. Nothing major. So once that's done, I'm going to blow dry it a little bit. Take it off the hope. And we're gonna start. The fun part is building our full hour. Now for the fun part, very carefully, leaving at about 17 meters all around the edge. And I cut my petals. So now, don't worry. If you don't cut it perfectly at first. You can always go back with the red scissors and kinda trim and a little bit more. Alright, so I have cut my first petal. Sorry, I finished it off, offscreen. But I'll show you how to trim another one and then I'm going to trim all my petals and I'll show you how to put them on the other 2p. So here, as I said, the hardest pedal is always the first one. But now we're going to cut the other petals. So we'll just go as close to the edge as possible without cutting the button hostage. Don't worry, you'll we'll trim it afterwards. Just to get it off. Now very carefully, push your wires. Back. Here you go. And cut there. So I cut my pedal and see how I have a lot of edges. So then I'm going to go around and coming off. Alright, that's total number two. So what I wanna do is now I'm going to cut my other three petals. So I have my five petals all cut and shaped. Just for shaping, you just move the wire around and give it the curve you want. So all my petals are shaped and ready. You can finish trimming off the fabric and burning and are coloring it whatever you want. Alright, so now for the fun part. So I have my leaves here. And what I'm gonna do is using a large should meal or large blunder. I Needle. I'm just going to prick holes. C, I'm just pricking holes. And making waiting for the pedals. They're pedal number one. Now, once you have your pedal pinned in place, you're gonna turn your foot around and you're simply going to bend your wires. If you've gone to rap a little bit of thread on the back, so secure. But since it's just a mounted piece, you don't need to secure it any further. Alright, so that's pedal number one. You can always move it. Are you gonna do the same with all the petals there? That's your stop work flour. For an added bonus, I would like to do a couple of French knots in the middle. Just feel. So I've threaded my yellow thread, knotted it. And the way you go about this is I'm using all six strands for this because I want my French non-stick be big. And I am going to do three turns. So I have curl the thread three times around my needle and I'm going to hold it in place. Now. Bear in mind, it's a little bit tight. And the first couple of stitches you might not see. With that one, I just literally missed it. But what you can do is move around the pedals and even the pedals. And do it on top of the pedal, like the one I'm going to do now, 123. And on the pedal. Go all the way. Nice and tight there. So I have my first French story, couple of more French knots on my petals. So kind of going blind. Here. We go. On top of my paddles. These are purely decorative. So if you want to do them, That's fine. Tip. One less right here I think would we nice band that now is a little bit short. So be very careful. If this happens. You're going to need enough to twist around for your friends and to be able to secure it on the other side. All right. So that's it. That's your flour. Keep your fabric nice and tight. And in our last video, I'm going to show you how to close up this hoop and finish off your work. 8. Part 5: Finishing Touches: So to finish off, what you need to do is you need to cut about a half to a quarter of an inch around of the excess fabric. Just leave a little bit of fabric all around. Your hoop. Doesn't have to be perfect. You're gonna glue it on the back. And I'm going to use just this glue, but you can use any glue, Elmore's glue, hot glue, whatever glow you want. And what you're gonna do is you're going to go all the way around nice and easy. And just blew your fabric to your frame. Careful not to make. Or it can be a bit messy. So be careful. Back Amir f2, all the way around. We have finished, guys. So pat yourself and back, case you beautiful brains and see you in my other classes. I hope you've enjoyed this class. You have any questions, comments, or concerns, you can leave them in the discussion board. I can't wait to see your finished projects and share with you how obesity gene.