Make a Quilt: Attic Mirror | Karen Burns | Skillshare

Make a Quilt: Attic Mirror

Karen Burns, The Warped Spinster

Play Speed
  • 0.5x
  • 1x (Normal)
  • 1.25x
  • 1.5x
  • 2x
13 Lessons (2h 20m)
    • 1. Introduction

      2:28
    • 2. Materials

      14:24
    • 3. Cutting Squares

      7:33
    • 4. Sewing the Blocks

      17:30
    • 5. Trimming Blocks

      8:01
    • 6. Arranging the Blocks

      13:05
    • 7. Piecing the Top Part 1

      12:59
    • 8. Piecing the Top Part 2

      10:37
    • 9. Piecing the Top Part 3

      4:57
    • 10. Cutting Borders

      16:25
    • 11. Sewing Borders

      17:40
    • 12. Figuring the Finishing

      13:42
    • 13. Thank You!

      0:43

About This Class

Join me to make the Attic Mirror quilt.  Though it looks like you might have to do set-in or "Y" seams, it's all straight-line sewing.  The mirrored blocks and the smaller square in one corner of each block give it a funky look, and the fabrics you use will give it whatever personality you want--elegant, playful, restful, bold.

The quilt uses pre-cut 10" squares for the main body of the quilt, and yardage for two borders.

aebd789b

Transcripts

1. Introduction: I'm here and also noticed the warp spinster. I'm a quilter, teacher and pattern designer in this class. We're going to learn how to peace the attic miracle that you see behind me here. It was the second quote that I designed in my pattern line, and it's still one of my favorites. It looks a little tricky sometimes when you see a corner like this, especially if you're beginning your thinking. Oh, that looks like a Y C. Where said in scene, At least there's something funky going on with piece of the triangle and at the end of another triangle, and I just don't know. But I promise you it's easy. There are no set in her, Y seems. It's really a fun little quote to make in the class will be talking about the fabrics that you use for most of the world. Other than the borders. You're using prik attending squares so some of the cut it's already done for you. We'll also go over the tools of materials and equipment that will help you to make the quote. I'll provide you with pdf for the pattern and also a layout sheet with different options. If you want to make a larger quilt in the sample, For example, I've done the math for you in case math is not your favorite thing. Of course, we'll also over the techniques of cutting and sewing and pressing all those quill Torri things that we do. I'm not gonna go into detail about the finishing the world, actual quilting and binding. There are lots of good videos and great teachers at your local quote shop to help you with that. I want to just focus on making this paddock mirror block. It's a good quote for beginners. If you know the fundamentals of using rotary cutter and ruler and you make a decent quarter and seen you'll be fine experience. Golders. I hope they will will also find something here if nothing else. You know, sometimes we just want to put the pedal to the metal and make it world, and you can do that with this one. The class project will be to peace. The attic miracle. I hope you'll join me. I think we're gonna have fun. So fire up your sewing machine and let's get Quilty 2. Materials: Hi. Welcome back. I'm glad you decided to join me for this attic mirror class. In this first lesson, I'd like to review for you the fabrics and the tools and equipment that you will need for this quote. First of all, you'll want to download the attic mirror. Pdf of the pattern which you'll find on this classes section of the scale share website. It will be in the my projects tab. You want it for the instructions? Double check the cutting. That kind of thing fell so nice just to have something to take Notes in your own words, the fabric. For this collection, I'm going to be using motives. Sunny Side up collection by Corey Odor This has a nice, bright, springy kind of fun colors. We're in the midst of the polar vote for Tex here, So it's 17 below and I just don't even want to know what the wind chill is. So spring is looking pretty good to me. Looking forward to using these fabrics. This motor layer cake has 42 squares in it, 40 to 10 inch squares and you will need 42 for this quote. Motor always has 42 squares in their layer cakes. Other manufacturers often will have 40 rather than 42 sat a problem. It's very common. Just pick up a fat quarter of, ah fabric or two from the collection or 1/3 of the yard, and cut the two extra tenants squares that you will need for it. There are two borders on this quilt, and I'm going for those. I'm going to be using fabrics also from this collection. Although that is necessary, you can use any coordinating fabric that makes you happy next to your tenants squares for the inner border, which is a narrower border. I'm going to be using this white fabric. It's got a little bit of a print on it. And for the inner border, which is about two inches, I think finishes at two inches. You'll need 1/2 yard for the outer border, which is wider. Twice is wide. I've also chosen a piece from this collection. They're two different ways. You can cut this outer border, and the amount of fabric you need depends on which way you cut it. So let me talk about those two ways First way, which is a very standard way to cut fabric e, including borders, and that is by width of fabric or Wolof. You may see in patterns, including mine. That means that you are going to end up with strips that are 42 to 44 45 inches long. That's the with the fabric from salvage to salvage. That is not enough to cover or fill the sides of the the quilt, so you will end up having to peace the borders, and we're to make them long enough to do that. For some fabrics, that's perfectly fine. A lot of people like to do it by with the fabric because it takes less fabric, and if you want to do it that way, it is. You will need one in eight yards for that. If you do not want to piece your border, then you'll be cutting it lengthwise so you'll be doing it parallel to the salvages rather than from salvaged to salvage. In that case, you will want to have one and 3/4 years will do it, but there's not much wiggle room for it, so I would go with at least one in 78 maybe even two yards for it. If you're going to wash your border fabric, which some people do, a lot of people don't, but if you do, you will definitely want her on the side of the two yards of it. By the way, don't ever wash your 10 inch squares. They won't be 10 inches, and there won't be square if there's anything left of them after they rabble their way through the wash cycle. So I have decided to do the length of fabric for the outer border because this is a large enough print, and I don't want these motifs to get caught up, cut off, and then when I piece them, I would have this scene in the middle of you two my borders. So I've decided for this quilt anyway, In this fabric, I want to cut it lengthwise will also give me a chance to show you how to do it lengthwise , so we'll show you with the fabric with this and length of fabric with this one, and we'll talk more about that when we get to the the borders on the quote. So I have actually more than half a heart here of this, and more than two yards of this because I like to have some left over to put in my stash toe work on other projects over, especially in its scrappy quotes, this since I'm cutting it on the length instead of the width and I'm buying more fabric for it, I will have more left over for this. And I might actually use this for divine do. You don't have enough for the binding. You will also want to get some thread that to use for the piecing on here. There are lots of different colors in here, lots of different fabrics. And obviously we're not going to change threat every time we work on a different work on the block. First of all, that's just we're not gonna do what we don't want 20 different threads colors, but also, you know what? If you do agree next to us yellow, then what are you going to do? So I always peace with one of several neutrals that I always have on hand. I always have a black and white a two or three different greys, and I'll have also have a cream and of a little darker beige for it for this particular pulled. If I were using mostly this fabric, for example, it would be logical to use this white. If I were using mostly this fabric, I would use this darker Toby, your gray four. This particular fabric. I would be okay with using any of these three. I wouldn't use black, but it might be that that's good for your collection, but for mine, probably. I'm sure I wouldn't use black, but I'd be happy with any of these Thieves would be my first choice and rather than this, because more of the fabrics tend to be of a lighter rather than this. So I probably would opt for the light agree in this case. But any of these, as long as your the tension is good on your machine, you don't have to match every single fabric. That way you don't have to by 20 different colors and be swapping all the time. So that's it for the fabric. And the thread was to talk about the tools and equipment. Now the hardware, first of all, you're gonna want a self healing map that's called a self healing That or rotary Matt goes by different names. It just protects your table, and it also protects the blade on your rotary cutter. This isn't 18 by 24 good size, pretty standard size. A lot of people have this and it will work for our purposes. For this quilt, you'll also want a couple different rulers. First of all, you will want to six by 24. This is a very standard sized ruler. If you're beginning quote for you probably have one of these. Even if you're if you only have one ruler, this is probably one that you have or one similar. You're going to need the length later on out of the beginning. But especially when you get to cutting the borders, you're gonna want a longer ruler. So the 24 woul will work. Oil for you has to be at least five inches wide. Six is a pretty standard with for this length of rulers. Sometimes they're 6.5 by 24. There are 8.5 by 20 fours at one of those two, and but the six by 24 will work fine. The other ones you're going to want is a square of ruler, which is as you might guess from the name used to square up fabric. You will need one that's at least 9.5 inches square. It could be larger. This one's 12.5, which is a fairly standards Where up size it can be larger can't be smaller than 9.5 because we're gonna use that to do some squaring up later on. The other thing you'll want on the ruler is this 45 degree line that runs from corner to corner. Here you will. Probably also it will likely also have a 30 a 60 degree line, but we're not gonna use. Those were just going to use this diagonal line from Porter to corner the 45 that's very important. So you want to make sure that's on your square up ruler. I am also going to be using 1/3 ruler, which isn't at all necessary or six by 24 your square will be enough. I'm going to use. I'm pointing this out to you just so you you know, I'm going to be using it in. You'll see it. This one is a six by 12. I'm going to use it just because when we're cutting the tenants squares, I don't need 24 inches and I just This is less ruler toe fling around and less for me to be pulling on and off the camera. So I'm going to use the six by 24. And while we've here, let's talk about this these quotes or select thrillers in case you haven't found them yet as it is claimer. I do not work for them. They don't pay me to say this. They don't even know who I am. Don't get a commission for it. I just really love these rulers. I found them fairly recently at my local food shop, and I just love them. I'm collecting them. I think I have probably six or seven of various shapes and sizes now. The reason that I love them is because they have this truly nonslip backing, which is important because if your ruler slips and it's easy enough to do, that's very easy for your ruler to slip. If it slips, then first of all, it's dangerous because your hand could slip and you could end up cutting yourself with the rotary cutter. But it's also less accurate when it slips. So even if it slips just a little bit each time you cut incrementally cumulatively, that's gonna end up with it non straight cut. It's gonna be inaccurate, and you're gonna have cuts that aren't straight so pieces that you can't use. But when you go to straighten that up so you're back on track again, you're going to waste fabric. So I just really like the non slip. So when I put my hand on top of here, you can see I can move it. But when I plant my hand on top of here, it's not going to slip. The movement that you're seeing is actually that the table moving. I'm not at my usual stable cutting table because the lighting in my studio just isn't good for filming. So that's the table that's moving. The ruler isn't moving at all, and I really like that. So it isn't necessary, Atal, that you use this brand. I just wanted to show that to you, in case you might be interested in haven't seen it yet. I've used all different brands of rulers over the years. I like lots of them, so any brand, we will work fine for you. You will also, of course, won a rotary cutter. Any brand, anything that feels comfortable and works for you will be fine. I wouldn't use smaller than this. This is a 45 millimeter there. Also 60 millimeters at a larger. Either of those is fine. I wouldn't probably go smaller than this. It's going to be easier in your hand. It will be easier cutting if you I don't have a smaller when those air typically used more for doing curves than for straight. So I would do this size or larger. Probably you will want to have some pins. Much of this you can do without pinning. I'll show you some pressing things that will help you to avoid pinning if you wish to. If you like to use pins, by all means, use them as you wish later on is we're putting the blocks together in the quote, especially, I think you're probably going to want pins. I recommend pretty fine pins. Let me see if I can get these close enough for you to see them. This is too much glare on it. That's a pretty fine pin. This these are, I believe clover pins their extra fine. And I like these because they are fine and sharp. They go into the fabric easily and they don't distort because they are fine. But any brand of pins that you have will work. OK, I would go with the finest that you have. If you have more than one, find this. You'll also want some clippers or nips to cut the threads as your sewing. And you may. You probably won't need this because you don't make the mistakes that I do. But I make a lot of mistakes. So I always, of course, have a seam ripper with me to do reverse sewing. These do get dull, by the way. So if yours is not cutting the threads easily than think about investing in two new when they're pretty inexpensive. So I I have I don't know how many of these things floating around, and finally, I guess you will, of course, need a sewing machine in good working order. You want to have whatever method you use for making an accurate quarter inch, same in place and change your needle. Your fabrics gonna be happier. You machine's gonna be happier. You're gonna be happier. Just change the needle. Which reminds me, also changed the blade into rotary cutter. How many times have we changed the blade and then asked ourselves why we didn't do it sooner? Sooner is now, change the blade in your rotary cutter, change the needle in your sewing machine and will be already to cut end. Quote. When we come back in, the next lesson will start cutting our 10 inch squares. 3. Cutting Squares: Hi. Welcome back. Before I start cutting these, I want to organized them into pairs that I like and something like a light and a dark works really well. But I want something with two fabrics with contrast. So, for example, I probably wouldn't put these two together because there's not much contrast there. We go a little further down in my pack here, and let's go for, say, this piece. I like those two together. Good contrast. This is a large scale. This is a smaller scale. Good. So I want to layer these right sides together, and I want to match up the edges, make sure those air nicely done, and then I'm ready to cut. I'm going to take my six by 12. For you know, actually, you could use if you got the score up. If you want to use just one ruler, you could use this one as well because it is at least five inches wide and 10 inches long. But I find this a little less cumbersome. It's less ruler to move around, so we're gonna cut the's in half first. The reason I've laid them right sides together is because once I've cut them. They're going to be ready to go to the machine. They're already laid out right sides together. The edges air matched up even the cut edge because they were already together when I cut them. Now, the thing about these 10 inch squares is that they are usually have pink edges to keep them from Raveling and different ones have different sizes of the peaks on the pinks. I just know from Mota that when I want to cut it, if I want to cut it accurately, I'm gonna aim for the middle of that peak. And while it isn't supercritical that you'd be perfectly accurate here, you may as well be in the habit of always cutting accurately for some collections. It may be at the very tip of the peak, from the tip of the peak to the, um, other tip. I just happen to know for this that it's gonna be in the middle, so you want to measure it, find out how how why did his peak to peak or where the 10 inches falls. So I'm going to find my five inch line, which is right here, and I'm gonna lay that up against the middle of those pink edges and hopefully then the opposite sides, they're gonna be perpendicular there. Make sure got my five inches lined up. I'm gonna plunk my finger down my hand down on the ruler. This is a non slip ruler, but especially if he used in a six by 24. Here are a couple of things to keep in mind. I always park my pinky off the ruler unless it's a very wide ruler, because, first of all, that helps to anchor it. But also, it means my finger can't stretch there for the rotary cutter to hit it. So I'm gonna place my pinky over here and bear in mind that I only have control of this ruler Forest faras. My fingers go. So once I get past here, if I don't move my hand, it's easier for this ruler to slip. This rule is going to be pretty good, but it's still things could still move, so it's always better to be safe and accurate. So I'm going to open my blade when I get to the point where my hand ends, I'm going to stop, walk my hand up and then finish the cut. I'm gonna leave my put my hand down, leave my ruler down and pull that aside just to make sure I've done the complete cut. And that has worked. And now I'm going to cut this again. We've already got this cut, but we're going to, um, allow for seeming that we're going to do later. So we're gonna cut 1/2 inch off one side, so I'm going to lay my ruler down here. Me? Move this up a little soon. Can see it better. I'm gonna lay my ruler down. Here's my original cut. I'm cutting perpendicular to that. So I'm going to find my half inch line on my ruler. Line that up in the middle of those pinks and trim off that half inch. So now I have two rectangles that air five by 9.5 inches and I'm going to keep these two pairs together. They're sort of the Tony twins. I'm gonna keep those together. I'm going to do the same thing for all of my 42 squares. I usually find it easier to match up to pair them up before I do the cutting eso I would do 21 pairs. But just to show you here, I'm going to line up a couple more. Now, you may be wondering if you can lay or more of these. So for six, whatever you certainly can. Sometimes, depending on what I'm doing, it's just easier and less time consuming for me to just do him two at a time. Other times are layered. I probably wouldn't do much more than thin four, maybe six would be pushing it a little bit. If you get too many layers, then they're going to start to push aside a little bit. You know, when you're cutting a stack of papers, if you're cutting it without securing them, they they tend to slide a little bit. So the top one moves over and the bottom one doesn't. So that's a danger of layering too many on there. But I'm going to do another one with just two on here and again, I'm gonna line my five inch line up over there and cut that in half. Then I'm going to move down here. In most cases, as I showed before, I would pull this aside while the ruler still down to make sure that I've done the cut. But because I want this to still stay lined up here in this case, I'm going to risk it hand line up my half inch. This is my first cut with second cut is going to be perpendicular to that one and finger situated there and cut off that half inch. So here's another pair I'm gonna put together. I'm going to continue to do that with all of my 10 inch squares, so I will end up with 42 of thes pairs. Next, we'll take them to the sewing machine and show you the first, so instead see in a bit. 4. Sewing the Blocks: no, Come back. We're ready to get sewing quilting all about. So I have here my two rectangles that are now five by 9.5 inches and they're still layered so that they're right sides together. And I'm lining up the edges here, and I'm gonna so down one of the long sides with scanned quarter inch scene. So as I'm sewing, noticed that I'm not pulling on it back here. I'm not yanking on it. I'm not holding it back here. I'm just got my fingers very lightly on their just guided. And make sure it's going through strait without tugging on it. There's one. It was the second pair are twins here. I don't have to cut the thread in between. I'm only doing this one. But if you want to change piece just to continue to feed through these pairs of tangles, dude, once sign blind, put you through that, however, so we will finish with this one. Clip the threads trim here. Now we're going to press them, and I'm gonna slide over here, so I'm my hands aren't in the way. When I demonstrate this, typically Coulter's will press to the dark side and that means that and less construction demands. Otherwise, you tend to press toward the darker of the fabrics. That's so that there's less shadowing in the piece here. If I press it toward here, it's more likely that you're going to see the edge of that under. There is just gonna shadow through. So for all of these, we want to press toward the dark side when we're doing these. And when I press, I'm gonna press on the top side, not on the backside. And here's why was a long time before I learned this. It makes sense. I always pressed from the top side anyway. But now I have reason one first of all, if you press from the wrong side, then you can't be sure that you aren't actually folding a little crease here. I noticed when I was doing some before, and I just wanted to make sure I sort of guided them in the same direction for the back. When I turned it over to really press on the front, there was it had folded over too far. When you do it on the topside, you weren't gonna have that happened because you'll be able to see and feel it up here. But also, this was the explanation I heard, which I think is just great. If you do it from the wrong side. When you press down, the iron is pressing the heat and a little bit of weight, and the first thing it's gonna go through is this other piece of fat work on the other side on its way down to that getting pressed into whatever you're you're pressing services here , which usually has at least some padding to it, However, so it's gonna potentially press a little line in there if you do it from this side. However, that edge there is, the first thing that's going to go to is your pressing surface. It's not gonna be going through this other fabric on its way down, so I like that explanation. Also, when I'm pressing, I'm I'm not irony and I'm pressing. It looks like I'm ironing because I'm using just the weight of the iron to push that edge over to make sure that I've got it all the way over. So I haven't got a little extra fold in there anywhere. I'm not pushing on it because that's going to distort it. Anytime you've got heat there, it's gonna be easier to distort the fabric. So I'm just letting the weight of my iron, which isn't very heavy on this little travel iron, and I'm just going to go there, and then I compress it. So I'm not bearing down on it or pushing against that seem. I'm just gently letting the way to the iron and the heat of the iron do the work. All right, so on this other half, this other piece are also going to press from the top side, and I'm going to just let the way to the iron do the work for me. Let me turn it this way. Maybe you can see that. So the iron is just moving over it. I'm not really pressing on it. I'm just letting the heat do the work. All right, so we've got those two pieces together, So let me move that to the side, and we'll come back here and talk about what we're going to do now. Next, we are going to put the's right sides together and, like fabrics are going to be opposite each other. Since we pressed both of them to the same fabric. Now I can scrunch thes scenes up against each other, and I'll remind you of this A little later on Wimmer's sewing blocks. I couldn't can feel that those things are nesting but not overlapping, so I can just kind of swishy them around a bit here until I can feel that they're meeting there. I wish I had a way to convey that that feeling to you, but you'll be able to feel it that they meet. There's just a single, consistent surface under there that you can feel. It's not overlap. There's no little ditch in the middle there, just right up against each other. So I'm gonna lay that out. And now I'm going to draw a diagonal line with the pencil or, um uh, erase herbal kind of marker. I'm going to draw a line from one corner to the other. So got a diagonal line. I've lined up these edges as best I can, and you're six by 12 isn't going to quite reach. But that's all right. We can let me put this right side. For one thing, you can either use six by 24 if you've got one. Um, and I do. But just to show you what you do, if you don't, I would start First of all, down here, you'll hear some a 45 degree line on my ruler. You're six by close. Should have a 45 degree. So I'm gonna put one. Put this point right here where the 45 degree dotted line meets the edge. I'm gonna put that right on that corner and then, Oh, line that 45 inch line up against here. So that's going to give me a diagonal line, because it's 45 degrees from corner to corner on the square so I can draw the first part of the line, and then I can just go up and finish that line that up there, and then go to the opposite corner. Now, if you've got a six by 24 ruler or some other straight edge, you don't actually have to have a rotary cutter Roeder ruler for this. You're just drawing a line and then I'm gonna finish that line. Think Sure. I got to that corner there didn't quite. I'm gonna draw the line. So now I've got a line that's drawn corner to corner on here. A double check to make sure these seems air still nicely together. And now I'm going to So a scant quarter inch, actually, probably a scant scam. Quarter rich when I'm doing these on both sides of this line, So I will have some Seems that air approximately half inch apart on these I I because I'd rather have a little bit extra to trim. Then, to be short, it's gonna be I will, er on the side of a narrower seem a little bit less than the quarter inch rather than wider . So I'm going to just now on my machine. I can move the needle so that it is now. I moved it so that it's a scared quarter inch from the edge of this presser foot. Some people use 1/4 inch foot. Other people have. If you've got tape is your method, it's going to be a little more difficult. You'll have to figure out where you need to put your presser foot in order to have a scant quarter inch there. All right, a scant scanned quarter inch. Um, I use this presser foot instead of 1/4 inch foot because this completely covers the feed dogs. And it just I feel like I have a little more control when I have the wider foot on it. If I have 1/4 inch foot part of one of the feed dogs here that helps to pull the fabric through is exposed. And I just like to have, um this'll meeting the feed dog. Teoh, help with that pulling action. All right, so now I'm just gonna do that stance can't quarter inch. I still wanted to be a straight good seem, so I'm not wandering all over. Hopefully, I'm gonna do this on one side. I'm gonna turn it over. I'm gonna pull that thread to the side here. I don't have to cut it. You can if you want to, but it's You save a little bit of thread this way. Make sure that's out of the way, not caught on anything. And then I'm just doing it. Go down the other side. I'm not a very speedy sewer because I like to take my time in the accurate, accurate as I can. So not a speed demon on the machine. All right, so now I can take this out and cut my threads. I'm back with a different block here. I think it you'll be able to see better, since I moved the camera to a different angle. So here I have my drawn line corner to corner notice. I missed the corner a little bit, had to redraw it, and then you can't see these two seam lines. But there's a scant quarter inch seem on each side and just a reminder of scant quarter inches a couple of threads shy of 1/4 inch. It allows for the width of the thread, the thickness of the threat and also sort of the thickness of the bulk of the folder should go over. Alright, so I've got that on either side. Now when I fold this back, you can see that we now actually have a completed block and because we had had nestled those seems together this point here, where these come together is a perfect point, and that's just what we like to see. So now I can, and you'll see on the other side that we have the same thing. So now I can just cut along that line I can do that with a rotary cutter, or I can do it with the scissors. And usually I do it with the scissors because that's what I have it my by my sewing machine . Nice years here, and I always try to be as accurate as I can. But if you're not right on that line, it's not a crisis because you've already done the sewing. So the line has done its major job right? So now I have two of these. When I fold them open, you'll see they're sort of twins. But the fabrics are in opposite places, of course. So now we need to talk about pressing these. You have two choices to press the seam, of course, this way or the other way so you could press it either way. And on this particular quilt, you have a couple of choices. You can either not press this until you have all of your blocks. Arrange the way you want in your design wall or the floor this bear red, whichever because then you will know which way you want. This seem to go If I an order for them to nestle. If I were putting these two together for example, are actually take one of these others because you wouldn't be putting two of the same together. So say I want to put these two together and, um, I will not in this particular case, For example, if I'm going to sew these this way, so I'm gonna have to match up these two. Seems when I put them right sides together. So, ideally, I would like to have this seem going this way. And this seemed going that way so that they're in opposite directions. So when I put these right sides together, then I would be able to Nestle, though seems up against each other, as I just did when I so those pairs of rectangles together the other way, you could do it, which is how I usually do it just because I'm in the habit of pressing as I go. So I'm I'm gonna press it one way or the other. It won't matter, and I will take it to the design wall. And once I'm at the design wall and I'll talk about this when we get there, I may either arrange these all other things being equal. I could arrange them so that I never have to, um, cross seems where I never have to match them up or failing that I could. If I have seems that are on the same side and I've got that bulk, I can deal with that. It's not my first choice, but I could deal with it. I could just match them up and stick a pin in there to hold it, and it would work fine. So it's up to you. You can either press after or before you get to your design. Will I like Teoh press first because we're going to square up these blocks and it's much easier to square them up if you have pressed. Um, all right, so now we have this block and we need to talk about pressing course. You compress it this direction or that direction, and you really aren't going to know at this point which direction you want it to be turned repressed because when you go to put these together, if these were going to be sewn together, you've got them up on the design wall, and this is the way you like them organized, for example. Ideally, you would like to have this scene going this direction and this other seem going that direction so that when I put these right sides together, too, so that seem they will be able to nestle up against each other just as we had them when we de eso those pairs of rectangles together. So that's ideal. But we don't know right now because we haven't laid it out on the design while yet which way we want. Those seems to go, so choose the direction and press it now the next. We aren't ready to go to the design while yet, though. You want to press all of these and then we're going to trim them down to a perfect size, so they're gonna match up perfectly, and that's what we'll do in the next statement, I'll see with the cutting table. 5. Trimming Blocks: Now we're ready to square up thes blocks. I've already squared up a few of them. We need to square them up to nine inches in the quilt. Once we've done the quarter and seem on all four sides, they'll actually be 8.5 inches. So that's 8.5 inches finished. We need to train them up to nine inches unfinished. I've done several of these blocks already, and I'll show you how we're going to do it on some that I haven't yet swear it up. So here's my block. I actually like to do this quote. I like toe have this smaller square up in the upper right hand corner and I'm gonna take my square up, ruler, make sure I locate my diagonal line that goes corner to corner, and I'm going to place that down on the block and there are a couple of things I'm going to look for. Here's my nine inch line coming down here and then my nine inch line is also right here. I'm going to First of all, I place it on the diagonal line here, get that lined up, and then I have to check to make sure that I have a little bit of block still sticking out past this nine inch line here in this one here because I need things to trim over here. I'm going to start trimming these two sides, and then I'm going to turn and trim those two. So I have to have something to tram on these two sides. So I lined up the diagonal line and then I also like to use whatever lot other lines. I have to help me make sure I'm squared up. So I want this line to run parallel to this edge of this square, and I want these lines to run parallel here. I also know that for this quilt I want to have the dreaded eight inch showing on between this, um, Ford. 1/2 inch line and this seem so an eighth of an inch is is the first tick beyond the major line. So, um, the eighth of an inch tick here is right here. So here's the major line that that's the inch line, and then the next tick up is that eighth of an inch line. So it's the eighth inch seems to scare some people, but it's really no big deal. It's just the first tick there. All right, so now I've got this lined up so that I agonal was lined up. I've got an eighth of an inch between the square and the 4.5 inch line, and then an eighth of an inch. Here is Well, I'm sure I've looked and I've got some extra fabric, Not much. And some of this look, I don't got that quite on eighth of an inch. That's why it's so scanty there. All right, so now I've got some extra hanging out past that nine inch line in that nine inch line. This is lined up that's lined up, is going to take my rotary cutter and cut the side. And then this side notice that I closed my rotary cutter before I set it down, reunified. I don't set it down, especially if I don't set it down. I just clean the edges this way to pick those up. It's especially important to closure Blade then, so that your hand doesn't slipper end up cutting yourself. Then, um, I also one of the reasons that I do that business to clean off the scraps is often. I won't get that corner cut quite right up there if I don't start soon enough going here and it's a little thicker. If I don't catch that corner or I haven't made a cut all the way through. My ruler hasn't moved here, so it I can go back and finish a cut if I need to. Apparently, the camera moves better rulers and gonna move. Okay, so my blade still closed. Now I'm gonna pick up the ruler, turn my block 90 degrees. So my two already trend edges are over on this side. Alternatively, I could turn the mat, not move my ruler or my block it all and just turned the match around. But this mats really a little too big to do that and get in. It's situated again for the camera would be taking your time for something you aren't really interested in seen. So now that I have trimmed these two sides and I lined everything up, I know that if I line up the nine inch line on this side and on this side, that everything else should be ready to go a double check. However, to make sure that my diagonal line is there. And now I'm going to trim these two sides. Close my blade. Pull that off. And there I have it all trimmed up. Nice. Neat, perfect. And nine inch square. Ready to go. I'll do one more, and then I will speed up the video so you don't have to see me in real time doing all of these. All right? So again, Blades closed. I've got the diagonal line lined up here, and now I want to do that eighth inch, that first tick mark from there and from there. So there's an eighth of an inch their eighth of an inch there. My diagonal line is lined up. Trim these two sides. Close my blade, pull off the extra turn my block around. There wasn't much extra on that one and again. Gonna line up that diagonal line. But I'm gonna make sure this time that I've got nine inch line over on this edge and this edge diagonal lines a little bit off there. You straighten that up. Here we go. Now, on a trend. These two sides, it was my blade and pull the trimmings off. All right, So I'm going to do speed up on the video while I do the rest of the blocks. I'll see you shortly. All right, so here's our last block to square up, so I'm going to get everything lined up here and do the cutting I want to review for you. Another safety thing for the rotary cutter. It's all right to cut this direction in this direction, but you never want to cut toward yourself. And you never want to cut toward yourself this way because it's too dangerous. You could cut yourself, Um, either way, so sometimes it's tempting, I know, but it really safety first, safety first is important. So here's our last block final trim, okay, and our blocks are ready to take the to design wall or the floor or a spare bed or wherever . I kind of have the room to spread these out and arrange them so that they look the way that want them to look in the finished quilt. I'll see you back then, 6. Arranging the Blocks: Now that we've got all that scene business out of the way, we're going to talk about how we're going to arrange them all on the my design wall here. I'm not in my usual studio because bad lighting in my studio for filming. So I'm up in my living room with a portable design wall and I have a few blocks up here, But with the scene thing in mind, I want to talk about how you might want to arrange these. You've got several options for it. You can choose to put this piece in the same place on all the blocks and note that the same thing is not the problem here because you don't have seems meeting each other here, So it will be easy to so that you don't have to worry about matching squares. The other thing you could do is to alternate them. Say, do that, that that piece up here and then one going like that, which gives you a little stronger diagonal line. Yeah, have to match. Some seems up here, do that. So that may not be your first, or it may be first what you may like that particular Look, you could also do it so that see how this thing about laying these out, right? Old What, uh, now we hero thing going on in two different directions. So it's a little bit of a spin with, and alternatively, you could just turn them. However you like it. So which is it? I feel it. Right? Yeah, one that way. You hear it that way? Okay. Yeah. Probably not going to do that, because those prints are are a little too similar for me. You may like that you have not positive negative close to that. So I might tend to just put that plane greenness or choose another block that doesn't have the green against green. So you've got lots of choices, and this is one of the fun things about it is laying out these blocks and figuring out how you like it to be done. I tend to try to distribute so that I've got that the darker fabrics, for example, this fabric is pretty dark in relation to the others. So when I put that up my eyes probably going to go to that one first, we're pretty quickly, so I'm going to try to distribute it around the quilt so that the eye moves around. However, if you happen toe like a more orderly, symmetrical kind of look, you might do diagonal stripes, for example, where you've got all of the greens running in this in. I have nearby here, lying green five color, and then do another diagonal stripe here that has the darker pinks in it and then do the yellows. It's just, however, you want to lay it out. This I purposely I don't have specific directions in the instructions I have, ah, layout diagram, which, if you want to follow that, that's great. So in that, the next section I am going to speed up the video and then I'm going to arrange these, and I would arrange them in. So I have six blocks go in this way by seven blocks, going a long way, so it will be seven rows of six what, six by seven blocks. So I'm going to turn off the camera while I get up off the floor because it's not gonna be a pretty sight. And then I'll speed up the camera while I try some different ways to arrange these blocks in the design world. So I'll see you back after that. Okay, Clearly, I've misplaced a couple of blocks. I'll be back, have found the missing blood in this particular orientation, I've got everything all of those smaller squares in the corner facing the same direction. And I like that I'm I'm perfectly happy with. That would be easy to sell that way. There are a couple of things, though, that my eyes not liking as much as it could. So, for example, this is too much dark right next to each other here and in fact it's the same. This is the sort of positive negative 20. I don't like those so close together. Fabrics are distributed. Well, I also got those extra blocks. I found out that I ended up with more Pinkston. I want together down here. So I'm going to do those. First of all, I'm going swap out one of the yellows up here, going on here so well, this one down. And no, that one there about and that this up. And this is one of the advantages of a design. While things look different vertically when there you're looking at them vertically. Then if they're down on the floor. But I know sometimes you just haven't got the space for so. But stepping back does really help because you'll see things that you couldn't see right on top. I don't because when you step back, you can really see where the lights and darks are. If there are too many of one color in one section, and I really I need to change that this think, bring it down here with better. But then that is really this. That's right in it. So I'm going to this up to here a lot of here. So that's going up there. It's here, no back. See what I think of that? And it helps to take a picture, actually, with just your cell phone or and he camera, just take a picture and sometimes that can help you see it, particularly if you've got a horse. I believe it's in Florida or spare batters. Now that I do that, I can see that like that there. So going to a lot of those florals down there have to see from a distance how I feel about them, and I think I don't have no think down there. Isn't that the way it always goes? So swap out what is then those two orange fabrics. So this is just kind of thought process that I go through. You may like a completely different thing where you may want all the things together. You want all the greens together, and that's great. This is your quilt. You should do it your way. Not my way. I just want to let you know what kinds of things that doing that. So now I'm going Teoh, Speed up, camera. And I'm going to start turning blocks so that they aren't all facing the same direction and see how that works like that. - All right, so those air going in all kinds of directions, I can see an interesting kind of thing going on this, that diagonal going on. It's a very strong diagonal and kind of like that. But if you're not an abstract kind of person, if you like things more symmetrical, then, um, that probably doesn't appeal to you as much as just having everything going the same direction. So it's totally up to you play around with it. One thing I found with these is that Once you get one, you think you like, It's at some point. You just have to say, That's it. I like it undone because you can spend weeks doing this believing, um, and if you've got a cat or adult who likes to happy help you quilt and you've got it on the floor somewhere or on a bed, then it's not going to stay that way for long. So find one that you like and just go with. And in the next segment, we're going to talk about how to organized these two so them and there are two or three different options, and I'll let you decide which one. 7. Piecing the Top Part 1: to talk about how we're going to organize thes so we can take them to the sewing machine. And so all of these blocks together, I decided it would be easier to do a demonstration with sort of many blocks of sewage squares instead of the full size blocks that we have. So I've set up some squares in a grid that's four by five. So your blocks, though we're gonna be six by seven. So you'll have come two more columns over here and two more at the bottom here. But this will show you how it all works. You'll catch on with this smaller size to talk about how we're gonna organize all these to take them to the machine. And so the blocks together, I thought it would be easier for you to see if I used small blocks instead of the full size blocks that were using for the quote. Yours will be six by seven for this demonstration with 2.5 inch squares. I've just set it up by four by five, but it's going to operate exactly the same way. There are several ways that you can do this. I want to show you a couple and then I'll show you the way that I prefer to do it. You may want to try the various ones out and decide which one works best for you. It just depends on how your brain wraps around things and somewhat with experiences. Well, but just find one that works for you and go with that. So the 1st 1 is to simply start sewing blocks together one by one. So you would take these 1st 2 blocks, put them right sides together. So your quarter inch scene, take them back, put them back in their place and pick up the next block. Put it right sides together onto the unit that you just finished, so that bring it back, pick up the last block so that to it, and then you've got one road. You continue to do that for all euros until you have your in your case, seven rows. Then you'll do the very same thing for the next row. So all of those together, one by one, and then you will. So all the roads together to each other when you are pressing in order to make it easier for you to put those rows together. You're going to press all the seams in one row, one direction and then in the next row, the opposite direction. So you're just alternating the way you press. And again it's sell. Those seems Nestle up against each other. Perfectly acceptable way to do it. There are a couple of advantages to what you get a little more exercise when you jump up, uh, to go get some more blocks and then to put them back up again and pick up another block. The second advantage is that you're more certain that you're going to get everything in the same order with a little practice. That won't be a concern for you, but it's kind of reassuring to take it always back to the same place, put it back, pick up the next block and added to it. So that's a good reassurance. If you're a beginner, you know, if I want to do it by column, I can do that as well, and it's just the same thing. So I would so these two together bring them back. And so the next one down onto the unit that I just sowed and continue that until I have a column so together and then continue with each of the columns and just as you did for the Rose, you're gonna press all of the seems one direction. So everything in this first column, for example, I might press down. Then in the next column, I would press all the seams going up the 3rd 1 going down fourth when going up, etcetera. So again, you can ness those seems, and it makes such neat corners and all of your corners and points come out right, which is always a good thing. To see the third way I want to show you is the way that I do it. And some people really like this way. And some people just isn't the way their brain wants to do it. Give it a try if you think it might work for you. I use this. Maybe I'm lazy. Maybe I'm not, but I like to have everything all ready to go and take it to my machine once and not have to go back and forth and back and forth. I particularly find this useful if I'm going to retreat, for example, and I want to just so everything together about the blocks. But I just want to So everything together at the retreat, I can organize it on my design while at home, usually at a retreat center. I don't have the room to do that. Everyone else wants to do it, and so there just really isn't space to do it. So I'd rather do it at home, where I have some time and some space to work on it. So I want to have everything so that I can transport it to the retreat center, and I know it's going to be in the order that I need it in order to sew them together the way I had them organized. So I am going to first thing. Actually, first thing that I always do when I'm sewing blocks together is to put a pin in the upper left corner of the upper left bloc That tells me that this is always my starting corner. So if things get turned around when I take a demand machine or I'm transporting it, I always know that's that's home. That's the North Star. That's where I'm starting. So you may also wish to put a number, and that tells you the column that you're on. So I've got the number one pin there. And so I always know that's the upper left corner. I know. If I just use one pan, it's always gonna be in the upper left corner. But if I put a number on each row, then I'll use a pin. These pins air pretty good size, but I could see them. So on the next row, then I'm going to pin a number two. They also have pin sets that have numbers on the heads of the pins. Those will be kind of handy if you'd like to do it this way and then throw three. I'm always putting it in the upper left corner because then if the block gets turned around , I still know which way it is supposed to go. And then a number four on this quilt, you would go on and mark columns five and six as well. All right, so now I know that I've got my columns in the right order. I'm going to pick up this top one in the column for number one, and I'm gonna lay it on top of the 2nd 1 That stat goes on top of the third. So the stack that I have in my hand is always on the top. And now I've got column one together in order that I went to pick up call him to the same way. Doesn't matter if they aren't sitting right on top of each other and now calling to is organized. And now I'll do column three and of course column for the same way. So now I have these four columns together and they're numbered, so I can now actually take this pin and put it through all of the blocks for that row. This is one of the reason to have a good sized pin, so it goes through all of these layers of fabric and pin all of those together. So now I can just stack them once. I've been these last two so I can stack thes. You'll do it more neatly, and I can take that to read to the retreat and know exactly what I'm going to do in the order. I'm going to do it and I'll show you this at the machine in a bit, but I just want to show it to you here because I think it will be easier to see. So to start off with, I'm gonna pick up my 1st 2 columns. I can set the others aside for now, and I can take the pins out. Now. Accept them. Always gonna leave this one in the upper left corner, and I'll just leave the number one up there so you can see that as well. All right, So I know these were these air now stacked in the order? They were on my design wall on the floor on the spare bed where? So I'm going to when I go to my machine had this one on the left, this one on the right, and I'm going to pick up the first pair and put them right sides together. I'm gonna run that through the machine, but I'm not gonna clip the thread. Then I'm going to pick up the next to and I've stacked these in order. So I know this is the next pair I need to do. Put those right side together, run them through the machine. I'm not clipping the threat. Then I'm going to do the next one run it through the machine without clipping the thread. And I'm just going to keep doing that. Keep putting them in the machines through the machine with the threads still connected. All right, so now I'm going to open these up and these air scene magically, you can see that there seemed from the magic of video. And now, but there are threads connecting all of these. So all of these air connected I can take, pick them up and shake them around. And as long as my stitch tension is good, they're not gonna fall apart. And I can always get back toe homeplace my North star, because I know this is the upper left corner. So no matter what I do to this unit, it all hangs together because these air connected by seems and the rose air connected by threads. So now I have these and I have those toward my left. Sometimes they put it on my have a table right next to my sewing table so it could sort of sit over there. And now I'm gonna pick up my third column, the next column that goes on here and this is all going to be stringing out in front of me . It's all still connected. But that's OK, is going to stay in the right order no matter what, because it's all connected. And now I'm going to take the top one of column three, Run it through the machine without cutting the thread. I kept the next block, run it through the machine without cutting the thread. And so on a way down that column. So now I have three columns and they're still all attached. I could pick everything up. I could toss it in a basket or a bag and maybe make my way home from the retreat center and everything is still connected. I've got another column to so on, but I know where it's at. I know what the top one is and how it's gonna be arranged. So now I have these so together with seems, and threats that are still connected in between. So now I can pick up my fourth column and just do the same thing. Then, when I have all of these so together. So Magic sewing machine has put those together. Now I have these, and again I'm going to press all the seams in one row, one direction. The next row is gonna go the other direction, and I'm just gonna alternate. Then I can flip these over, put them right sides together, and so the rows together. And then my quote top will be finished. I find that a handy way to do even if I'm at home and don't want to get up and walk to my design wall and back again all the time. I think it's also particularly useful if you have Children or pets who like to help. You can't seem to. Well, no dogs like to join in, too. It's a way to get it off the dining table, the living room floor, whatever. So you still have space to live. Once your quilt is all laid out, you don't have to leave it there and as you have time to sew it together next we're going to go to the sewing machine, and I will show this to you in real life with our real blocks 8. Piecing the Top Part 2: Welcome back. Here we are at the sewing machine with our 1st 2 columns. Here's one we notice week that pinup in the other left hand corner Here's the other. I'm gonna put the 1st 1 on my left leg and the other one on my right leg. I don't have a table handy by my side at the moment, and we're going to start chain sewing these, so I'm going to pick up the 1st 1 from my left leg. It's the first column and then the top one from my right leg, which is the second column, and I'm gonna line them up here on the side and down here. I've got those seems its diagonal seams that I want to match up. And, thankfully, happily, the's have seems that are gonna nestle against each other. So I'm just going to so that and I'm using a scant quarter inch, which again is a threat or too shy of a full quarter inch that allows for the thickness of the thread and the the fold over the fabric. And I'm just gonna stitch down 1/4 scant quarter inch seen when I get to the end. I'm not going to cut my thread. All right? I could feel Is that went through that those seems were still nested right up against each other, but not overlapping. So there's by a first pair. 1st 1 from one column went from the second column. Now I'm going to take the next top to the top one on my left leg, top one on the right leg, and again, I'm gonna put those right sides together. I don't have any seems to match here. I'm just going to make sure I matched the top in the bottom. And I haven't broken my thread here. I'm just going to continue without breaking that thread. And so a scant quarter it seem on this if you're more comfortable putting a pin down here, so you know you're gonna end up where you want to end up. Let's do that just so you can see and I'll put a pin down there and this first block first pair of blocks is falling over the back of my selling table. That's okay. Once you get to have quite a few that are attached there, it can kind of drag on things. So you may want to If you don't have a wider table back there, put a table or a chair or something to kind of catch it so it doesn't pull and drag so much . So now is I'm coming up to this pin. I'm going to stop before I get there and pull out the pin. And while I do that incidentally, I'm taking my foot completely off the presser foot. This machine, my lovely little Fauth, will happily so right through my thumb and thumbnail. So I've learned to keep my foot off the presser foot when I have my fingers anywhere near that and then I'm gonna finish up that scene. I'm not going to cut the thread. I'm gonna pick up my next to put them right sides together. Line everything up, and I'm just going to keep sewing This This goes under and just continues on. And now the second set of blocks is going to cascade over the bath of my sewing. I'm going to just keep sewing these together till we have all seven of those payer sewn in from those 1st 2 columns. And then I'll see you back here. All right. I met the last of these blocks from the 1st 2 columns. And now I've got a scene where the bulk is all going to be on one side. I haven't. These aren't nestling together. And just to show you, I'm not going to change the direction that I pressed these. So I'm just gonna make sure that those that seem lines up nicely all the way up to the edge . And even though this isn't the very beginning of sewing this scene, I'm gonna put a pin in it. So as I move this to my machine, I don't shift it out of place. Once it's under the presser foot, I'm feeling a little more comfortable. Will take a couple stitches as long as I haven't reached that pin. Then I'll pull out the pin and continue so into the and starting to run out on me soon. I usually have quite a ways to go once I get the alert. All right, now I've reached the end. This is the seventh of these that I've seen. And now I can cut my threat so you'll see me then pull all of this up. It's like a line of flags lined up here and I get back to my 1st 1 here, and I've got twisted around here. Now, this is my first pair. I can tell because I've got that pin stuck in there. Now, if I open this up, this is from the first column. It's so to the one in the second column. So now these air all together, I know they're in the correct order. Three m This while I'm here. Now I'm going to pick up the third set of blocks, my third stack. So this is the third column. The one at the top of the column is on the top. Now, I'm gonna have this over to my side, over my left leg. This is going to go on my right leg and the upper left corner is going to be up here. So I've got that situated that way on my leg. And now I'm going toe line up the 1st 1 on here. So essentially, I'm just adding another block to the right. Of the two I've already sewed together. Now I've got one of those. Seems where they aren't going to nest. So I'm gonna line those up, put a pin in it and I know that lightest is blinking at me, but I do have enough bobbing to do this. Not to worry. All right. So, again, I'm doing a scan, quarter inch scene and finish lining this up here. And actually, I've got another set of seems toe line up here. So these two seems where these two blocks meat. I'm gonna have to line that up to and again. The bulk is going to be on the same side that press the same direction. So I'm going to make sure that I get that lined up isn't quite there. That's lined up and put a pin in that. So I make sure it doesn't shift, and then put that back in. Then finish this seat. Now, I've got some some drag over here because I've got all of these blocks that are already soon together here, So I'm gonna ease up on that drag a little bit by lifting them up onto the table. Finish this Now, the next pair of blocks that come up I know are already in the correct order because they were so that way. And I didn't cut those threats. So now I'm just gonna open that up, and now I'm going to add the next block from the third column onto the corresponding block on the right hand side, and I have no seems to match up anywhere on this side. So again, I'm not breaking my thread just continuing down. And if I need to relieve some drag over here, I'll just lift that block up to the table. The next one up and the blocks that I've already sued are going to cascade over the back. Here's the next one up. So I just opened that one up and put on the next block, this one. The seams are going to nestle, so I will just ness those squiggle them up next to each other, put a pin in there, and that's the only seem I need to match up on this one. So I'm going to continue with this third column as well, and I will see you back at the end of that, and I will have changed my bobbin by then. We're back, and now I have finished sewing on the third column. So here's the 1st 1 and we know it's the 1st 1 because I've got that pin up in the corner. It's actually got a white head, so it's hard for you to see. But there's the pen, so I know that's the upper left corner. There's the second piece put onto it and there's the third piece that's been put onto it. So now I am ready to put on the fourth column, and I'm going to do that just the same way I'm going toe pick up the next set of blocks. This is going to go on my right leg and I will just keep adding blocks as I so up and down . So I'm going to finish this for all of the columns in the quilt, and then we will be back to talk about pressing and so 9. Piecing the Top Part 3: Hi, We're back. I have now sewed all of these pieces together because I didn't cut my threads. They all are hanging together in one piece. So it's time now to so these robes together. And that's what we're going to do next. Before we start sewing there a couple of things I want to show you here primarily the pressing. So this is they, obviously the backside of the quote top. And these were the 1st 2 rows I have already pressed thes two rows. And the thing about the pressing here is we do know what we want to do. Unlike when we're pressing those last diagonal seams on the block. This for this entire row, I pressed. All of these seems going this way for the next row down. I pressed them all the opposite direction and again that so these air going to nestle together. Still, I can at this point, clip that thread that holds those together. And now I'm going to match up. In this case, I've got quite a few points to match up. I've got this bit here, and I've got this bit here, so I've got two points there that I need to match up. The first step to doing that is to have those seems pressed in opposite directions. So those air gonna nestle up against each other? So first thing I'm gonna do is nestle those up and then I'm gonna match up those edges and then I'm gonna pull this back, pull the top one back and match that every will pull it back. And I want those to those points to come together right there so I can sort of eyeball that and make sure that those points are gonna meet right there. I'm fairly confident, but the first time for a while, you're probably going to want to pin that. And then I checked to make sure and I've got another thing to match up here. It is not going to nestle up the way that I've got it and because this has got another seem over it, and I can't repress that seem I'm going to just match that up and put a pin in it, and then I'm just going to keep matching those up like that, as I need to across the row. So here's another seem. I've got them pressed in opposite directions. Aiken, clip that threat if it will make it easier for you and make it easier for you to see here. So now I've got another one to match and I don't have There's a point there, but I don't have another point that I have to match it to on a block on the next row. So I just want that to be 1/4 of an inch away. And if I so that accurately that and trimmed it actually accurately, that should be true. So I'm just gonna make my way across this whole set of Rose matching up those seems nestling them together and pressing them. Then I'm just going to do the same thing for the next row down because this row is all pressed this direction, pressed it this direction, the next row. I want to press that direction. Then the next row will go that direction. The next role will go that direction. So we're just alternating the directions that we press them all the blocks in a row, get pressed the same direction, all right? And then I'm just going to once I've got those all matched up. I'm just going to do a scant quarter inch seem taking a special care when I get to places where I have these points to match up and they really have to be 1/4 inch and meet at the right place there. So I'm going to take extra care to make sure that my seem is accurate there and then everything's meeting up. So I'm just gonna keep pressing, matching so in 1/4 inch seem until we have the top together. When that is finished, I will see you back here and we'll talk about cutting and adding the borders. 10. Cutting Borders: Okay, Welcome back for the border cutting portion of our program. I've switched my Matt so that the 24 inch length is this way. And my fabric is that the two salvages air up here and they are matched up. So if that then matched up those of ourselves judges And here's my fold down here at this point, it's more important that you see the folds. I'm kind of we're back here. When I line up the salvages, I see that I'm going to have to do some trimming over here. Yeah, I think you can see here that the fabric underneath the half of the fabric that's underneath is not straight and even with the fabric on the top, So I'm gonna have to straighten that out. And to do that, I'm going to take a perpendicular line on my ruler here and line that up on the full. That's going to ensure that my cut is perfectly perpendicular and my strip will be straight and doesn't have this bend in the middle, which is there's no way to correct that. So I want to make sure that straight if I'm right handed, I want to have my ruler toward my left hand and my edge off toward the right here while I square this If I were left handed, I would do it. The offices and I would I have my ruler to the right until I'm not left handed. Can't you and I would then be squaring up the edge would be the left and I would be squaring up that edge. My experience in years of teaching is that left handers are much better at adapting to this than I am to explaining it to them. But I try to do that just because I think it's fair. It's only fair. All right, so I am going to line up in this case, I'm using the one inch line, but it doesn't matter as long as a perpendicular lying here and the top of my ruler goes over the top edge up here so that I don't have to move the ruler to do this cut. So I'm always going to be doing my measuring according to the ruler, not the mat. Your ruler is accurate. You're mad is not okay, so just a couple of cutting safety review things here. You know me and safety. Um, as before, I'm going to put my finger off the edge here to anchor it and to keep this finger from getting cut off over there. So I've been anchor that and again, I only have control for a Sfar, as my fingers are. Now, open my blade. I'm gonna check to make sure again that I got that lined up on the fold and then I'm going to walk myself up part in the table, moving while I'm cutting. It's not the most stable table. All right, so now I got this edge straightened up, but when I start cutting, I need it the other way around. So this was just to straighten up. I can either pick up my ruler in the fabric and swap it around or since every time you move the fabric, there's an opportunity for it to shift enough straight again. I'm actually just going to turn my mat, and now I'm all set up. So now I want to cut 2.5 by with the fabric and I'm going to again. Here's my 2.5 inch line on this ruler right here. I'm gonna line that up along the edge, and I'm going to double check my folders at the top now, but I'm gonna double check that to make sure that that's also perpendicular. That's just two ways to check that I'm right, and then I'm just going to cut that. So that's one strip 2.5 inches by the with the fabric. So in total, it's 44 approximately inches wide. So I'm just going to now. I'm going to come back again and do line up the 2.5 inch line on my ruler on this cut edge double check to make sure up there at the fold that I'm still perpendicular there. And then I'm gonna make my cut my second strip, and I'm going to just keep doing that until I have seven of those 2.5 inch strips. Each time I have to move my fabric over, I'm going to double check to make sure that edge is still straight. If it's not, if in shifting the fabric, something else shifted, then I'm going to straighten up that edge again and make sure that I have a straight cut so I'll just keep doing that till I have 7 2.5 inch strips from that fabric. So that's going to be for our inner board. We're going to slip back into the world of miniature imagination to talk about how to cut the wider border, which we're going to cut lengthwise because it's just too cumbersome to try to show you things on a two yard length of fabric have done this little mock up for So we're gonna pretend this is our 44 by a 72 inch piece of fabric we're going to cut from have also painted some salvages on here. It's admittedly a little sloppy May or soldiers be narrower and Niedere than what's shown here. So this is how it comes off the bolt with these two salvages on opposite sides of the width of the fabric meeting, more or less when it comes off the wolf. Sometimes they need well and sometimes not so much. And if we were cutting things on the width of fabric which we did for the narrower border and which is the more common way to do it, then we would be cutting this way hand perpendicular to this single fold here. However, we're gonna cut this border lengthwise, which means we have to change that. So instead of having the salvages on opposite sides meet, we're going to bring those salvages full them back against each other. So the same salvage on the same side of the fabric, same heir to the fabric is going to have a fold in it. Now, if we're imagining this as our 72 inch piece of fabric, that means that this is now 36 inches this direction. So we're gonna be cutting at this direction, and that's 36 inches. And that's too long for any ruler I have. They do have 36 inch rulers, but I don't have one because generally I don't have the cutting space is a 36 inch ruler, so that means that I'm gonna have to fold it again. So this is my 72 inch length in half, and I would have to fold it again. So now it's 18 inches for a little more, actually, because I had this lip hanging over. This is 18 inches, and now I can do that with my six by 24. I have to have these two folds perpendicular, or I will get that elbow in. One of the fool's gonna exaggerate this so you can see it. But if this bold is here and this bold is this way and I line up my ruler on this bold, then this fold is is gonna have that elbow in it. So you have to have both folds, parallel and in order. I like to be able to see everything. So I have the second full here with a little bit of the ends peeking out here. I don't know why. I don't think there's really any good reason for it other than I just like to see everything. All right, so now I have to make sure that this fold in this folder is parallel. And as I did with just a single full of fabric, I'm going toe line up the fold along one of these perpendicular lines on my ruler. But this fold also has toe line up on a perpendicular line, and I can see mine isn't very so Now I have to adjust this fold, and I just keep tweaking it until the two folds or parallel. And sometimes I do the wrong thing into it backward and I to correct that. But all right, so now it looks like I need to do a little more, so I'm just gonna shift this up a little bit. Means my salvages didn't come off quite straight. Okay, so now I've got it lined up on a perpendicular line up here. Maybe not so much. A little bit more and trying not to get my head in the camera while I look at this. All right, so that's lined up. And now this is also lined up. Now, I could take my cutter, trim that up, and then start cutting my strips 4.5 inches What you'll find that you may find if you're someone who wants to after you have trimmed off the edge. If you're somebody who likes to turn the math instead of turning the fabric so that you don't get anything out of, um its proper place here and you end up having to redo your fools again, then this will be longer because it will be 44 inches. You can just fan fold what's left without moving that, and then turn your mad around and started, and then you could undo the fan fold. So the key thing for doing it lengthwise is just to make sure that your two folds or parallel it won't work just to do one. You want to make sure both fools are parallel. All right, that's it. Now we're gonna head back to the real world of full size cutting of these borders. So I've got this straightened up and I want to find my 4.5 inch line on my ruler, which is right here on mine. If you get confused or you have trouble finding whichever line you need, you could put just a little piece of masking tape or something right next to that so that you know, that's the line that you want to use. All right, so I'm going to double check. You know, the measure twice cut once. So this is 4.5 inches again. I want to check my fold. So because I moved my fat work and I probably you moved mind more than you'll have to, but everything's looking pretty good. So perpendicular Lines Lineup. My 4.5 inch line is lined up here my pinky hanging off the edge here and again. This is a lot of layers. So I'm gonna take my time and I didn't quite get it all cuts. I'm gonna go back and do a second cut. Better to have two due to cuts than to mess up your wrist in any fashion. So all right, so now there's 1 4/2 inch strip, so I'm just going to keep moving down. And each time I put my ruler down, especially when I have this many folds, these three folds I'm going to First of all, check that. I met my 4.5 inch line, but that my full zehr all still on a perpendicular line there make any adjustments. If they aren't, it's extra work, but it's worth it in the end. So now I'm going to do my second strip, which I shouldn't have list lifted my ruler earlier. I'm gonna line that up again so I don't sliver my edges, make it fair with All right, there's number two now, because I did that. I'm really gonna have to check. I used to make sure they're still in alignment when I get there again. This is why, with the fabric isn't easier way to do it. If you want to go buff, I want you to see how you conduce this lengthwise if you want. Teoh. Alright. How are things looking here this way a little bit. It's worth taking the time to That's all off over there so lined up again. It's worth taking the time to get this lined up properly because then you're gonna have straight cuts on your strips and that's what you want. You want to get this far, not have it work for you. I haven't looked the very best that it can. And if I end up having to straighten this edge that I'm gonna end up having to straighten this edge a little bit. But see if I could do this without that. Looks good. All right, so now I'm gonna make sure that because I'm cutting so much fabric, I want to be extra aware of safety here because I'm bearing down a little harder on this cutter. If you have a 60 rotary cutter instead of this 45 that would be even better. So there's number 33 and now I'm going to do my last one. And again, I'm gonna line up all of my folds to make sure everything is cricket here. Sure, I'm on my 4.5 inch and do my fine. I'm glad this table is not all right. Still didn't get it. There we go. Wobbly table makes me worry. Okay, so now you'll see about all of this left. This is another reason people like to do with the fabric. Is that you don't. I won't say waste fabric, but it takes less fiber to do it. So now I have all of this left for my stash. Yeah, or binding or whatever. So now we've got seven strips that are 2.5 inches wide for our inner border. And we have four strips that are 4.5 inches wide by the length of fabric for the outer border. Now, if I had chosen to do the wit the fabric for the outer border as well as they enter border , I would need eight strips and I would be cutting them from salvage to salvage rather than cutting the long way. So seven strips of with the fabric for the inner border. Four strips, 4.5 inches wide if you cut them. Length of fabric. Eight strips 4.5 inches wide by the with the fabric. If you were cutting from salvage to salvage next, we're going to be ready to measure the quote and get the borders ready to so on. I'll see you back here. 11. Sewing Borders: it's time to start sowing the borders together. So here is the finish quilt top, minus the borders. It's all been pressed, and I pressed it. It doesn't matter how you press the rose once you've sold them together. Usually I end up pressing them just one direction. So we'll press them all up along them toward the bottom of the quote. Once in a while, I'll do it So the top half goes up in the bottom half goes down. It doesn't matter for this particular quilt. So we're ready to measure this quilt top for the first border rather than trying Teoh, manage all of this under the camera that it would be easier and more clear if I just through all of this out for you. So let's say this is our quilt. No quilt top without the borders yet. So this direction is six blocks and this is the LENGTHWISE, which is seven blocks. The first border we're gonna put on. We're gonna put on these two sides, so the longer sides are gonna have the first set of borders put on, so we're gonna put two borders here first, so we need to measure this length. So the best way to do it is to measure it three times toward the center of the quote. Don't measure the edges because some of those seams between the rows maybe kind of pulling apart a little bit. Maybe the sewing wasn't as accurate is it? Might have been right at the ends. If you're like me, I tend to just say, Oh, we're at the end and go on through. So you really want to measure it in the middle and you want to do it three times? So say I would measure it right in the middle and then say one here and one here. I'm going to take those three measurements and average them. So I did major mine, and they all actually happened to be 60.75 But let's say yours didn't come out the same. So one measurement was 60.51 was 60.75 One was 60.25 He was probably won't be that much different, but just to demonstrate. So I'm gonna add those three up, which is 1 81 50 and then I'm gonna divide that by three, because I'm taking the average, and that's gonna come out to 60.5 inches. So that means I'm gonna cut thes strips. I need strips that are 60.5 inches wide. Long. I want this quilt top to end up being not square, but it's the corners being square so it doesn't end up life. That which is an exaggeration. But actually, I've seen a couple of quotes pretty close to that. The one thing you absolutely do not want to do is just it. Peace, um, strips. So that long? Just so it on that side and then take another one and sold on that side and just cut off whatever is left that almost guarantees you were going to have unequal lengths of those sides. And your school year quit will not come out square. All right, so I'm going to take, um, fabric the 2.5 inch by with the fabric strips, and I'm going to peace two of them together. So I'm gonna have a seam in the middle of them, and then and I'm gonna press that I just press mine open, and then I'm going to measure 60.5 inches of that and cut two strips that are my average length here. And then I'm gonna sew him on those two sides, the two lengthwise, and I'll show you how I'm going to pin that out and average it out here in a minute. Once those air. So don, I'm going to press those toward the borders. That's probably the way it wants to go anyway. So I will press those toward the borders. And now I need to measure this with because I'm gonna put on the top and the bottom two borders. So now I need to measure going this direction again. I've been a measure it in the middle, and this time I'm I'm gonna also be measuring with these two borders on. So I'm gonna measure one, say right there and one there and one there. And then I'm going to take the average of those three lengths again that I'm going to peace strips that are that length longer than that. Cut them to that length, and then I'm going to so those onto the top in the bottom of the quote, press them toward the borders and that's my first set of borders. Finished the second set of borders. I'm gonna do exactly the same way. Except now I'm also adding onto these measurements, So the 1st 2 I'm gonna put in put on are going to be on the longer sides again. So if I have cut them by with the fabric, I will peace them. Probably two of those strips together. If I did it by, like the fabric, I don't have to piece them. I'm going to take measurements from, um here. Now we've got this upper almost told you wrong there were going to do it from here, grab a different color pain here. So for this border, then I'm going to measure it here in the center. And this time I'm gonna be including this inner border. And then I'm going to measure it over here, including that inner border, and then measure it here, including that inner border. Take the average. Cut those to wider border strips that length, and so them to those sides of the quote. And then, as you might have guessed, when we go to put on the top and bottom borders again, we're going to make sure we have strips that length. Whether we have to piece them or not. And then we're gonna measure in the centre three times. And this time we're also measuring this wider outer border on the long sides because we've already attached those. I'm gonna average those three lengths, cut them two strips that length and add them to the top and bottom again pressing them toward the borders. So it's the matter off to make a long story short, I guess you're going to measure three times in the center and take the average of those three measurements and cut your strips that length. That means since you're cutting those strips the same length, everything is going to come out. Sides are gonna end up being the same length Thies too long Sides will be the same length. The top and bottom will be the same length. So your your quilt is gonna have square corners, shall we say All right, So let me show you how I'm going to do the painting of already measured and so together inner border pieces so I can show you how I'm going to. So those so it's accurate and I can sort of ease in if I need to. The first thing I'm gonna do. Let me just is here. Let's say this is the length that I have to do. And here's my my border strip. I'm going to full this in half with the right wrong size together. And then I'm going to fold my quilt in half my quilt top in half wrong sides together, and then I'm gonna put this fold against the fold of the fold in my quilt so those two folds are gonna go together. I'll show you this in a minute here and put a pin there. Then that means that anything that I eat have to ease in is going to have an even amount of these. So I'm not going to just start up here and then Oh, my gosh, I end up on guy, have to ease and 1/2 inch down here, and I'm madly trying to fit in 1/2 inch here. If you know ahead of time, how much you have to ease in and you you divided in half, then you're gonna spread it out across this whole length of the border instead of having to try to get it all in at the bottom now. Hopefully, you will not have to do very much easy. But just in case you have to. All right, So let me show you that process in person might be easier to see. So here's my quilt, and I have folded it in half lengthwise. So this is my edge that seven blocks long and I folded it in half. So each half is 3.5 blocks. And here's my full over here at this folded right. Wrong sides together. Grab my two strips that I have measured and I have Oops, not those. What should I do with those? Looks like the two strips. If it's not all soon, find out. Okay. Now I'm gonna take these two strips and fold them in half wrong sides together. And so I'm going to take this fold of my quilt and the fold of this strip, which doesn't look quite right. Yet there we are. And I'm gonna match those up. And I've got the's right sides together now. Right? Because I had them. I folded them wrong sides together. So this is the right side here, and this is the right side of Mike world, so I'm gonna unfold this, but still hold my finger there So I keep my place and then I'm gonna take a pin and put in there. So I know that's the halfway mark divided both the quilt in the strip in ham. Now I'm gonna go down to the one of the ends and match up those edges top and the end and put a pin in that. And now I've distributed any extra that I have on either the quilt top or the border. It's a lot in half and distributed across the entire length now, so it looks like I don't have much to ease in, which is good news. So I'm just going to continue pinning across here beans over here, and if I have to ease anything in, I can do that. So let's say let's let's do this. So I've got some extra of the border here that I have to ease in, so I can just It will take more pins if you don't garment. So and you probably know how to do this. I'm going to just pull a little bit of extra border back there and put opinion, and then I'm gonna pull a little bit more back, so there's a little bit of extra on this side. I'm getting there just a little bit. So this is how you can do it without getting a tuck in it and then a little bit more, a little bit more. So now you see that he's is is spread across this whole thing instead of bunching it all up at the end. So if you find you have to do some easy and you may need to do that on your quote top rather than the border piece, but it's the same process. So now I'm just going to continue pinning here on this half. Looks like I don't have to do any easy. She's one of the advantages of taking your time and cutting and sewing accurately depressing will. It pays off in the end, My last point on that half. So I've got that half pin now I'm gonna go back and do just the same thing on this side. I'm gonna match up this edge or corner. Then if I need to, I'm gonna ease things in. It looks like I have to ease in a little bit of quote on here. So here's what happened. This is why you don't measure them at the edges. Why measure them in the center? Because it's more likely that your edges got a little longer or spread out a little more then in the center. So we're gonna do a little easing here. It's like, more easy than I thought I was gonna have to dio. We're just slide a little bit of the quote here. So it probably has happened is that it's a fatal flaw in me that when I get to the end of the seam, I don't stick with the quarter into program exactly as exactly as I should. So that's probably what's happened is I've got some seems that aren't quite what they should be at the end. And if I hadn't made her in the middle and cut this that middle length and if I'd cut the border from the width at the side here would have been too long over here and possibly shorter on the other side so I'd end up with shaped quilt. It would not be a good rectangle art, so I managed to ease in what I needed to there and this is now ready to take to the sewing machine. And so I would do exactly the same thing on the other side. I would fold it in half wrong sides together, fold my strip in half. That's not the strip. That's some extra strips here. So I would full this in half wrong sides together and some fabrics. It's kind of hard to tell what's wrong. Sides together, I would match up the fold, match up the edges and easy in anything that I needed to pin it. And then So what did it wilt? Then I will do my measuring for the top and bottom strips, just as I demonstrated with the on paper there for you and then do the same thing for the outer border, and then your quote top will be all finished. If you meet me back here shortly, we will talk a bit. Just a couple of things about the finishing that I like to let you know about, even though we are gonna cover how to do the quoting the findings specifically. So I'll see you here when you're finished with your borders 12. Figuring the Finishing: we're back to talk a little bit about finishing. Here's the finished quote top, and it measures 63 a half FYI, 71 a half. When you are going to quote this or have it quoted for you, you'll need to know how much backing fabric this will take. So when you layer quilt, you had the backing fabric at the bottom and in the batting in between. And then the quote top. The backing has to be larger than the quote top, because the process of quoting sort of draws things in. There are a couple of different ways that you can do. Quoting one of them is to have someone with a long arm quilting machine a big sort of industrial size, commercial sized machine to quilt it. And they have different requirements than would someone say, who's going to quote it on their domestic machine? Or to be hand quilted? Probably the most common thing nowadays is to have a long arm quilter do it or a lot of people have longer machines. So let's talk first about how much batting are backing you will need for that. So our quilt is yours, will be more square than my drawing here. One can only hope so. Minus 63 a half inches by 71 a half, and yours will be approximately that size. So if we're doing it for long arm most long armors like an extra 3 to 4 inches all the way around, which means 6 to 8 inches in your within link links, Um, the long armors at my quota, for example, like three inches all the way around. So you would add six inches to that. And I actually like more like four when I do it on my machine. So first thing is to talk to you, a long arm quilter, and find out what they want for that for the backing we want this to be because we want, say, an extra three inches all the way around. That means that our measurements are going to need to have six inches because it's three inches over here and three inches over here, so we're gonna add six inches, and that means we need 69 a half inches or 70 and then the 71 a half. If we add six inches, gives US 77 a half. So if we are going to use standard fabric, that's 42 to 44 inches wide. Generally, I figure things based on 40 inches, because it nowadays, it seems they seem to be getting a little narrower s. So I just always figure on 40 because then I know I'm covered. Even if it's very close to 40 I know if it's 40 I'm okay. If I'm figuring on people having fabric, that's 44 inches. Why, that's kind of dangerous because they're fabric may not be 44 inches wide, especially those that have pretty wide Selfridges in them. So if I in this case, if I do, too with a fabric, it's 40 inches plus 40 inches. So this is the salvaged to salvage here. This is 40 inches. This is 40 inches together. That's going to be 80 inches, which is enough for my length. So my quilt is going to be going this way. This is the length of my quilt, so now I just need to know how much fabric I need to cut. How much fabric that's 40 inches wide. I need to cut in order to get my whip. The 69 a half Most places are not particularly happy about cutting less than an eighth of an inch. So you can't go in and say I want, you know, 16.5 inches. They like to do it to the nearest eighth. So the 69 a half is just basically it's gonna be 72 inches or two yards, so I need two yards for this part of it. This half of it and two yards for this half of it. So this will be 80 inches this way and 72 inches that way. And then this seem runs down the bill. So you would need to seem that. So I'm gonna need four yards of backing for that now. You can also get what's called wide back, and those are fabrics that are wider than the 42 to 44 inches. Some are 90 inches, but you don't find out so much anymore. Generally, there are 100 and 4 to 108 inches wide, so the wits of 104 by 108 is or 108 is going to be plenty for our length here. We're gonna have 37 inches left over, but this saves you from having to peace. The back is why you might get a white back. All right, so now this is the width here, and it is plenty wide to get the length of our quilt. So again, all we have to do is figure out how much we have to cut this way. How much fabric we have to buy in order to get my 72 inches, 69 a half inches, which we've rounded up to 72. And it's just the same as it is up here. It's gonna be two yards, but you only need two yards of it because you're with this enough to carry your length. So here, I need to wits of it because this is 40 wide. This is 41. So in if you're using fabric that's 40 2 to 44 inches wide, you'll want four yards of backing. And if you're getting a wide back, he'll want to yards. Even if the wide backs only 90 inches, it's still gonna be plenty, so two yards will do it. This is assuming that your measurements are the same here. I wanted to show you the man for this so that if you've made a different size quote, you configure it out from that. All right, so that's the backing now the binding, I always figure binding that most people are going to do it 2.5 inches wide. Some people do it narrower. I do a closer to two. But 2.5 is the average that that people do. It depends on how thick your batting is and how Why'd you like you're binding? But 2.5 is the average that I use. So the binding is going to go all the way around the quilt. But as it does that it has to turn these corners, which uses a fabric. And when you so finding together, you actually cut it on a 45 degree angle. So you joined these together. In that case, you're losing a little bit in there. So we need to know how much we need to go all the way around the quilt. But we also need to allow for this when we're seeming and for these corners and I usually add in about 10 inches, so it would be the perimeter of the quilt plus 10 inches. So this quilt I've got 63 a half top and bottom, and I have 71 a half top and bottom. I've already done that, and it's 270 inches. I'm gonna add on 10 inches for those corners and what not? And that gives me 280 inches. Now, I need to divide that by 40 because my fabric is 40 inches wide approximately, and I'm cutting strips that are that wide, and I'm going to just keep So we need strips together here, and each of the strips that I cut is going to be 40 inches. And I'm gonna keep adding those 40 inches together until I reached this perimeter. So to know how many strips I'm gonna cut this is 40 inches per strip. I divided by 40. And that comes out to 6.75 strips. Well, I'm not cutting 3/4 of a straight up. I'm gonna cut seven strips. I have to round up. So there are seven strips I need to do and their 2.5 inches wide. So I'm going going to multiply the seven strips times 2.5 inches per strip, and that's going to be 17.5 inches. Or, um, nobody's gonna cut your 17 Well, most shops are not gonna cut your 17.5 inches. They're gonna cut 18 inches, which is 1/2 yard now. My instructions. My pattern shows 58 yards. This is 1/2 yard. I suggest that you get 58 yard because that allows you some wiggle room. If you made a cutting error or if, um, you end up actually wanting mawr than 10 inches for these corners or or something with it. If you've got extra wide salvages, I just always build in a little bit of extra. When it's this close, that's just happen into wiggle room. When it's this close, I always build in a little extra. And because quote chefs usually like to cut in increments of eighth of a yard than I bump it up to 58 of a yard, which is another 4.5 inches, so you'll have five inches. That means if you make an error in your cutting, you've still got enough to make another strip. So if you are going to be doing this, however, if someone's hand quilting it for you or you hand quilt, if that's the case, you probably already know how much extra you like to have around. You want to have some around you quite possibly won't need the six extra inches or the three inches all around. You will want some extra in both the batting and the backing, and if you are doing it or someone is doing it on the domestic machine for you, then again, you may not need that. Probably don't need that extra 6 to 8 inches around, but you will again want some extra there. If you are doing it under domestic machine, you're moving a lot of fabric and a lot of oak around. I really admire people who do that beautiful work on domestic machines, and the less bulk you have to throw around, the better so you don't want to go crazy and giving yourself extra backing, but you want to have enough that it will, Um, when it sort of takes up in the quilting process that you'll have enough around, um, that you don't run out on the edges when you get to the edge and you have nothing there to quote on to quote together. So that's it for the finishing in summary for the backing. If you're getting regular with fabric, then you'll need four yards for this I school. If you're getting a wide back, you'll need two yards and for binding. I'm recommending that you get 5/8 of the yard, so I hope that you had fun making this quote top, and it's so exciting to see it finished quilted and bound. As I said, we are going to cover the specifics of how to do those two things. There are other videos in classes that will show you that and really is a class in itself the finishing in the binding. So I hope you had fun doing the quilt top, please. In your class project section, please post the quilts, the whole top that you made, or if you want to take your time making the quote top and and can't wait to share, I would love to see just a couple of blocks that you've put together so I can see what fabrics you're using and and see that you're making the quote. So can't wait to see what you put into the project file. That's my favorite part about teaching is seen what others are doing in what fabrics they're using. So I'm excited to see what you do. 13. Thank You!: thank you so much for joining this class. I hope you had a much fun making the quote as I had showing you how to make it. Be sure to post photos in the my project section so we can all do and all over the quote that you made. If you enjoy the class, please give it a thumbs up or better still, give it a review. And if you want to know about future classes that I have planned, you sure to follow me and you'll get a notice when the new ones are published. Thanks again for joining me. I hope I see you in future classes and in the meantime, happy.