Lightroom: Two Minute Tips | Nicole S. Young | Skillshare

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Lightroom: Two Minute Tips

teacher avatar Nicole S. Young, Photographer & Author

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

139 Lessons (5h 4m)
    • 1. 1.01 — Introduction: What are "Two Minute Tips"?

    • 2. 1.02 — The Advantages of Using Lightroom

    • 3. 1.03 — Lightroom "Do's "Don'ts"

    • 4. 2.01 — Why do I need to "import" photos?

    • 5. 2.02 — Quick and Dirty Import Settings

    • 6. 2.03 — Importing Existing Files into Lightroom

    • 7. 2.04 — Importing from Another Computer: Step 1

    • 8. 2.05 — Importing from Another Computer: Step 2

    • 9. 2.06 — Import Presets

    • 10. 2.07 — Quickly Importing to Recent Destinations

    • 11. 2.08 — Importing "RAW + JPEG" files

    • 12. 2.09 — The Difference Between DNG & RAW

    • 13. 3.01 — Move, Sort, and Delete Folders and Files

    • 14. 3.02 — Customizing the Workspace

    • 15. 3.03 — Toggle the Visibility of Panels and Modules

    • 16. 3.04 — Viewing Panels in Solo Mode

    • 17. 3.05 — Setting the View Options

    • 18. 3.06 — Loupe Overlay: Layout Image

    • 19. 3.07 — The Toolbar

    • 20. 3.08 — Adding Metadata to Photos

    • 21. 3.09 — Creating a Metadata Preset

    • 22. 3.10 — Converting Raw Files to DNG

    • 23. 3.11 — Saving EXIF as Side-Car Files

    • 24. 3.12 — Organizing with Collections

    • 25. 3.13 — Group Similar Files with Smart Collections

    • 26. 3.14 — Locating a Photo’s Folder in Lightroom (or on Your Computer)

    • 27. 3.15 — Using Survey mode to find your best images

    • 28. 3.16 — The Paint Can

    • 29. 3.17 — Viewing Edits Made Outside of Lightroom

    • 30. 3.18 — Renaming Photos

    • 31. 3.19 — Changing a Photo’s Timestamp

    • 32. 3.20 — Merging HDRs

    • 33. 3.21 — Merging Panoramas

    • 34. 3.22 — Copying GPS Data to Photos

    • 35. 3.23 — Using Filters to Search the Catalog

    • 36. 3.24 — Jumping to Previous Folders & Collections

    • 37. 3.25 — Stacking & Auto-Stacking

    • 38. 3.26 — Dealing with the Exclamation Mark

    • 39. 3.27 — Synchronizing Folders to Find Missing Files

    • 40. 3.28 — Facial Recognition

    • 41. 3.29 — Setting Up Publish Services

    • 42. 3.30 — Publishing to the Hard Drive

    • 43. 3.31 — Publishing to Facebook

    • 44. 4.01 — The Develop Module Overview

    • 45. 4.02 — Simple 3-Step Processing

    • 46. 4.03 — Raw vs. JPEG in the Develop Module

    • 47. 4.04 — Resetting Panel Adjustments

    • 48. 4.05 — Basic panel: White Balance

    • 49. 4.06 — Basic panel: Tone

    • 50. 4.07 — Basic panel: Presence

    • 51. 4.08 — Tone Curve panel

    • 52. 4.09 — The HSL & Color panel

    • 53. 4.10 — The B&W panel

    • 54. 4.11 — The Split Toning panel

    • 55. 4.12 — The Detail panel: Sharpening

    • 56. 4.13 — The Detail panel: Noise Reduction

    • 57. 4.14 — The Lens Correction panel: Profile

    • 58. 4.15 — The Lens Correction panel: Manual

    • 59. 4.16 — The Transform panel

    • 60. 4.17 — The Effects panel: Vignette

    • 61. 4.18 — The Effects panel: Grain

    • 62. 4.19 — The Effects panel: Dehaze

    • 63. 4.20 — The Camera Calibration panel

    • 64. 4.21 — Creating a Custom Vignette

    • 65. 4.22 — Creating a Faded Matte look

    • 66. 4.23 — The Crop Tool Overview

    • 67. 4.24 — Changing the Crop Orientation

    • 68. 4.25 — Adjusting Tone with the Histogram

    • 69. 4.26 — Viewing clipped highlights and lowlights

    • 70. 4.27 — Previewing Before and After Images

    • 71. 4.28 — The History Panel

    • 72. 4.29 — The Snapshots Panel

    • 73. 4.30 — Virtual Copies

    • 74. 4.31 — Adding a Graduated Filter

    • 75. 4.32 — Adding a Radial Filter

    • 76. 4.33 — Using the Brush Tool for Selective Edits

    • 77. 4.34 — The Brush Tool’s “Auto Mask” Feature

    • 78. 4.35 — Reset All Develop Settings

    • 79. 4.36 — Fixing Color Cast

    • 80. 4.37 — What is “soft proofing”?

    • 81. 4.38 — Spot Removal: Best Practices

    • 82. 4.39 — Removing dust spots and specks

    • 83. 4.40 — Syncing and Auto-Syncing Edits Across Images

    • 84. 5.01 — Importing Presets

    • 85. 5.02 — Creating a Preset

    • 86. 5.03 —Updating Existing Presets

    • 87. 5.04 — Creating a “Favorites” Preset Folder

    • 88. 5.05 — Applying Develop Presets on Import

    • 89. 6.01 — The Print Module Overview

    • 90. 6.02 — Using Collections in the Print Module

    • 91. 6.03 — Setting the Proper Page Size

    • 92. 6.04 — Picture Packages

    • 93. 6.05 — Custom Print packages

    • 94. 6.06 — Making a Custom Collage

    • 95. 6.07 — Saving User Templates

    • 96. 6.08 — Adding Text or Logos

    • 97. 6.09 — Saving a JPEG from the Print Module

    • 98. 6.10 — Color Management: Profile, Intent, and Print Adjustment

    • 99. 6.11 — Creating a saved print

    • 100. 7.01 — The Book Module Overview

    • 101. 7.02 — Book settings

    • 102. 7.03 — Auto Layout

    • 103. 7.04 — Add, Move, and Remove Pages

    • 104. 7.05 — Changing the Page Layout

    • 105. 7.06 — Working with Photos

    • 106. 7.07 — Adding Text and Image Captions

    • 107. 7.08 — Stylizing Type and Creating Style Presets

    • 108. 7.09 — Applying Type Presets to All Pages

    • 109. 7.10 — Adding Page Numbers

    • 110. 7.11 — Changing the Background Design

    • 111. 7.12 — Creating a Saved Book Project

    • 112. 8.01 — Open Any Catalog When Launching Lightroom

    • 113. 8.02 — Clearing the Preferences File

    • 114. 8.03 — Increase the Cache Size to Improve Speed

    • 115. 8.04 — Backing Up Your Catalog

    • 116. 8.05 — Rendering Previews

    • 117. 8.06 — Smart previews

    • 118. 8.07 — The Quick Develop Panel

    • 119. 8.08 — Using Quick Develop to Batch Process

    • 120. 8.09 — Editing Videos

    • 121. 8.10 — Creating a Custom Identity Plate

    • 122. 8.11 — Editing (and Re-editing) in Photoshop

    • 123. 8.12 — Open as a Smart Object in Photoshop

    • 124. 8.13 — Integrating Lightroom with Plugins

    • 125. 8.14 — Manually Adding GPS to Images

    • 126. 8.15 — Creating Saved GPS Locations

    • 127. 8.16 — Adding Location Data From a GPS Log

    • 128. 8.17 — Syncing with Lightroom Mobile

    • 129. 8.18 — Setting the Lightroom Mobile Settings

    • 130. 8.19 — Sharing Synced Collections

    • 131. 9.01 — Exporting: Location and Filename

    • 132. 9.02 — Exporting: Videos

    • 133. 9.03 — Exporting: File Settings

    • 134. 9.04 — Exporting: Image Sizing

    • 135. 9.05 — Exporting: Sharpening and Metadata

    • 136. 9.06 — Exporting: Keywords

    • 137. 9.07 — Exporting: Watermarking and Post Processing

    • 138. 9.08 — Creating an Export Preset

    • 139. 9.09 — Quickly Export with Presets or Previous Settings

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About This Class


This knowledge-rich video training course features bite-sized tutorials, along with the very best tips and tricks inside of Adobe® Lightroom® Classic CC. Each lesson is 1-4 minutes in length and focuses on one key feature in Lightroom. These videos save you time by getting to the point and teaching you only what you need to know, without excessive talk or ramblings.

Whether you are brand-new to Lightroom or have been using it for some time, this course will help you learn even more and take your understanding of Lightroom, organization, and processing skills to a whole new level.


  1. Introduction
  2. Importing
  3. The Library Module
  4. The Develop Module
  5. Develop Presets
  6. The Print Module
  7. The Book Module
  8. Mobile, Maps, and More
  9. Exporting

Includes a 37-page PDF guide to help guide you through the course. Please go to the Your Projects section to download this file.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 

This course was created using Adobe® Photoshop® Lightroom® CC (version 2015.6). However, the majority of the course will also apply to Lightroom versions 5 and 6, as well as the most current version of Lightroom Classic CC.

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Nicole S. Young

Photographer & Author


Hey everyone! I'm Nicole, and thanks for checking out my profile.

I'm a professional photographer, a US Navy veteran, and I have found a way to turn my love of photography and teaching into an online business. I live in the countryside of the beautiful state of Oregon, but I've also lived in a lot of other places, including Japan, Hawaii, Nebraska, Utah, and a handful of other states.

I'm best known for my books on food photography, but also enjoy photographing a variety of subjects, including landscape, travel, lifestyle, and even underwater photography. You can find my books over on Amazon, as well as my online store, and create presets and other overlays for photographers to use with their images. I also post regular training tips and other items ... See full profile

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1. 1.01 — Introduction: What are "Two Minute Tips"?: about six years ago, I started a video Siri's that I call two minute tips. They were short and to the point, bite sized videos to help explain or teach just one or two things inside a photo shop. I got a really good response from these videos, mostly because I cut to the chase and I didn't book end the actual teaching part with a bunch of blabbering. So I decided to create this leg room course with a whole bunch of these two minute tips. Now you'll find that some of them do go over two minutes. Most of them are in the 1 to 2 minute range in a few of them go over four minutes. But the spirit behind the videos is all the same and teaching you one or two things. I'm getting right to the point, and hopefully you'll come away learning something new without using a lot of your time. I hope you enjoy these two minute tips, and I really hope that they help you understand light room, whether you're a beginner or an intermediate to advanced user. I made this course for everyone, so please enjoy and thank you so much for watching 2. 1.02 — The Advantages of Using Lightroom: so you may be wondering why use light room? Why not just use the folders on your computer? Well, the biggest advantage to using light room is that it catalogues your photographs. And that's why the file that you open in order to view your photos is called a catalogue. It pulls all of the information from your photos, all the metadata, the exposure, the lenses, the cameras and even the location. If you have that embedded into the photos, and it allows you to search your files using that information, and you don't even have to use one catalogue for all of your photos. If you like, you can break them up into different categories, or you can use a different catalogue for each client. And in terms of file storage, you have complete control over where your photos were stored. All of the folders inside of the folders panel reflect the same folder structure that you have on your computer. They're not organized into some strange and mysterious behind the scenes method. You get to choose how your photos were stored and they're not stored inside of light room. Leg room is just pulling information and reading that information from your photos on whichever drive that those photos are located. Of course, there are a lot of other advantages to using light room things like publishing your photos directly, using the publishing tab or organizing your images into collections. We're flagging them and sorting them and giving them different colors to help you organize your photos and whatever method works best for you. Light room is a great organizational tool for photographers, and I'm sure that you'll see throughout the videos in this course some of the other ways that you can use light room to your advantage to help organize and even process your photographs. 3. 1.03 — Lightroom "Do's "Don'ts": when using light room, there's one major rule that you need to follow just to make sure that you keep things tidy and you don't mess anything up behind the scenes. And that rule is to Onley. Move things around inside of light room and let me show you what I'm talking about. The folders panel is a reflection of how your folders and photos were stored on your computer or your hard drive. You can go into these folders and view the exact same images and folders that you see in your light room catalogue. But if I were to move a folder inside of my file browser and then go back into light room now, light Room doesn't know what happened to that folder. I also have exclamation marks on each image because it can't find the images. It's not where I told it that it was when I originally imported the photos. I can find the missing folder if I know where it went, and in this case it's not that difficult to locate because I did it intentionally. But if I were to go into several folders and move photos around or just make a bunch of changes behind the scenes, not necessarily in editing the photo, but in how they're structured in terms of their naming and their location that can really mess things up. If you do too many things, you may not be able to recover and locate those files as easily as you would like. So I'll go back into this folder, open that back up in my finder, and now we can see that I have that 2015 folder and that green smoothie folder inside of my folder structure on my computer. So if I instead move that folder inside of light room, that also moves them on my computer, and I even get a notice that tells me this. I'll go ahead and click move. And if I go back to that folder, there's my green smoothie folder inside of that 2015 folder exactly how we have it set up inside of my folders panel in light room. So just be sure to move things around inside of light room to prevent light room from getting confused and not being able to find those files inside of the database. 4. 2.01 — Why do I need to "import" photos?: if you are new toe light room than the process of importing your photos may seem a little daunting, a little confusing or a little strange. In fact, I know people who don't like light room because you have to import your photos. But I just want to kind of get past some of the misunderstandings of what the import process does. First of all, when you import your photos, you are not putting them in a strange location. You're not putting them inside the application. All you're doing is telling light room where to see those photographs. Light room in itself is a catalogue, and that means that it is cataloging the photos that you tell light room toe look for all of your photos are exactly where you want them to be. There, either on an external hard drive, an internal hard drive. Whether you import them through an SD card, add them or move them into your catalog. The photos don't go into a strange location. Let me show you if I were to right, click on one of my photographs, I can show this in the finder, and I could see the image right in front of me. This is in the exact location that I told light room to place it when I imported it. I can access these files outside of light room and I can move them around, preferably inside of light room. All the import process is doing is saying Hey, light room. This is where my photos were stored. Go ahead and show me a representation of them instead of light room so I can organize them and make edits to my photographs. 5. 2.02 — Quick and Dirty Import Settings: Let's start out with what I like to call the quick and dirty import settings. This is a good place to start. If you're new to importing in light room, I'll begin by clicking on import on the bottom left and I'm going to be importing from an SD card that I've plugged into my computer. I can see that in the source here. It's called Entitle Laters. Haven't given the court a name yet. You have another option here. Eject after import. This will automatically eject that card. Once you finish your import process, it's up to you whether or not you want to have that checked. I like to keep mine unchecked. Now let's move up to the top. We have copies, DMG, copy, move or add. Because I'm importing these from a card I'm only given to option. If you're not sure about DMG yet, don't worry about it. Just select copy. This will copy the photos over in their existing raw form, which is great just below that, we have new photos selected and this is going to be a very common option. I use this one all the time. Usually I'm importing photos from a card. We've already imported some of the photos that are already on it. In this case, I am actually going to select only a grouping of these images. First, I'm gonna go down to the bottom and I'm gonna sort them by captured time so I can see them a little more clearly and have them grouped into the order that I actually photographed them and then also liked uncheck all of the bottom. I'm gonna click on one of the photos, scroll down, hold the shift key and click again, and then click inside of that little check box to select only those highlighted images. Now, only the photos that you see checked or going to import into light room. Now let's go over to the right. I'll start out with file handling. You really don't have to worry about this section if you're not sure what any of these mean . The default settings are going to be just fine. And in most cases it's what I use on a regular basis for file renaming. You probably will want to rename your file. I don't like to keep them as is. They just are messy, and they don't really mean anything to me. So click on that rename files box and I prefer to use custom name an original file number. Use whatever system you like that makes the most sense to you. And in the sample section, you can see a preview of what your files are going to look like in the apply during import section. Go ahead. Just leave this blank if you're not sure about it. If you already have a metadata preset, you can select it from this list. Otherwise, just leave it as is. And you can make these changes after the fact. If you'd like to, the destination is an important section to pay attention to the default is going to import them by date. But for me, this type of organization doesn't really make a lot of sense to my brain. And your choice of organization is really just going to be up to you. I'm going to change this into into one folder, and then I'm gonna locate the folder that I'd like to use for the purpose of this tutorial . I'm going to add these into a folder on the desktop, but for you, you're probably gonna want to import your files into an external hard drive. I have my main folder selected, and then I'll check on into sub folder and give it a new name. I'm finished making all my changes, so go ahead and click import to start the import of these files. 6. 2.03 — Importing Existing Files into Lightroom: Now let's discuss importing photos into light room from images that are already existing on your computer or external hard drive is a very simple process and will start out by clicking import on the bottom left. No, I don't have any memory cards connected to my computer right now, So the only option that light room is giving me is to add files, so I will select this files from my computer. I'll just double click on the folders until I get to the one that I'm looking for. And I'll just select this file of tutorial images now. If you like, you can make some changes over on the right. You can change the previews. You can prevent duplicates from being imported, or you can apply a metadata or developed settings presets. I usually just ignore everything on the right. I locate the folder and then on the bottom right. I click import. Now these photos are automatically imported into their current location, but now light room can actually see them in the database 7. 2.04 — Importing from Another Computer: Step 1: there may be occasions when you need to relocate your light room catalog from one computer to another. Maybe you are upgrading and getting a new computer. Or maybe you have some photos on a light room catalogue inside of a laptop that you need to transfer to your main computer. Whatever the case, the easiest way to do that is a two step process. You export the catalogue and then you import the catalogue. And for demonstration purposes, I'm gonna show you how I would export a catalog from some photos I already have here on this computer. First, you need to decide what you want to export. More than likely, it's going to be all of your photographs. So you would select all the photographs and then highlight all of them using Commander Control A and then go to file expert as a catalogue. Another option would just be to export one or two of the folders so you could select the folder right click and choose Export this folder as a catalogue, and this option also works with collections as well. So go ahead and right click and select expert. This folder is a catalogue. I'll choose a location. I have an external hard drive connected here, and then at the bottom you will see how many photos you're actually exporting. If you see exporting a catalogue with one photo, then you need to go back and highlight all those photographs who you export more than just that one photo that was highlighted. The other option you have that you may or may not need to use is the option that says export negative files. If you're exporting, let's see a small batch of travel photographs, and you're going to export them to a hard drive and then move them to your main computer. You're probably going to want to use that export negative files that's actually going to copy over the existing original photographs into a new folder. That way you can move them into your main computer. However, if you are exporting your entire lighter and catalog from one computer to a new computer and you have all of those photographs on an external hard drive that you work off of, then you don't want to check this option. All that you need to do is export the catalogue, and then when you connects that external hard drive to your new computer and import the catalog. It's gonna read the files from that external hard drive. 8. 2.05 — Importing from Another Computer: Step 2: Now we'll show you how to import photos from another catalogue. I've exported some photos from my main computer in my office so that I can use them in this tutorial here in my sound studio. The photos were located on an external hard drive that have connected to my computer, so I'll go ahead and select file import from another catalogue. I'll go down to that external hard drive, select the folder, and here you can see this is my light room catalogue. All of the photos and negative files were also exported with this catalog as well. So I have that catalogue selected. I'll click Choose, and I'm given a few different options here. If you'd like, you can see the preview of the files and you can even resize that window. There's a drop down here for file handling. I almost always select to add the photos to the catalogue without moving, and then I'll click import. My catalogue and photographs have been imported, but now I need to move them into my main computer. I'd like to move them into the same folder as this pup cake folder, but I can't see the parent folder so I'm going to right click on that folder and select Show parent folder. I'll click the drop down arrow for the Blue Passport, and I could move these arrows down if I'd like to kind of get to the main photographs and the 1,000,000 folders. Then I will highlight all of those folders and then click and drag those folders into the main folder on my hard drive. Light room will relocate those photographs while keeping all of the metadata and develop settings intact. 9. 2.06 — Import Presets: one really simple way to speed up the import process is to create an import preset. I have an SD card plugged in, and I have all of my settings set on the right as well as of the top where I'm going to copy. These is DMG Files, the's air settings I would use if I were importing photos that were photographed here in the Pacific Northwest. And I want to save this because I'm going to be importing a lot of photos in the same way. So to create this preset, I go down to the bottom. I click on the drop down, and I select save current settings as a new preset. I just give us a name. It's called it Pacific Northwest and click Create. Now when I import future images photographed here in the Pacific Northwest, also like that preset, make a few changes, such as the sub folder that is gonna go into and then click the import button on the bottom right 10. 2.07 — Quickly Importing to Recent Destinations: you may find yourself importing your images into the same location over and over, depending on your hard drive set up, you may have a large collection of several folders that you have to navigate Teoh in order to find that one folder using an import preset can also help with that. But another quick way is to access it, this little section in the top right, and if you click on it, it will show you some of the top destinations. But it will also show you recent destinations on this computer. I don't have a very long list, but on my main working computer in my office, this list stretches as far as it can go. When you click on a location, then the destination will automatically change to that location. So it's a convenient way to import photos into destinations that you use all the time. 11. 2.08 — Importing "RAW + JPEG" files: some cameras will allow you to photograph both raw and JPEG at the same time. I do this a lot with my Fujifilm x t. One because I like the ability of transferring that J pic file over to my iPhone and sharing it on social media. However, when importing them into light room, this means that I have two versions of the same file. One raw and one J peg leg room has the ability to either group those two together or show them as individual files. I prefer to have them group together if you'll notice here all of my files say R E f plus JPEG. Now, when I process the file, I'm processing the raw version of that file, but it's telling me that I also have a J Peg counterpart to go alongside it. Let me go ahead and show this photo in the folder so you can see what I'm referring to. There's the raw file, and there's that JPEG file. However, if you prefer to see the raw and J pic file separately inside of light room, there is a setting that you can use to change that to change it. Go up to the light room preferences and then check this box that says Treat JPEG files next to raw files, a separate photos. Now keep in mind that once you check this box, it's not going to apply these changes to my existing folders inside of my catalogue. It's on Lee going to show those separated J peg and raw files when I import new images. However, if I go into the folder and right click, I can select Synchronize Folder and it's telling me that 580 new photos want to be imported , and all of those are going to be the J pic versions of those raw files. Just click synchronize to make that change happen. 12. 2.09 — The Difference Between DNG & RAW: Now you may be asking yourself, what's the difference between a DMG file and a raw file inside of light room, particularly in the develop module you are likely to not see or notice any difference whatsoever. Behind the scenes, however, is a bit of a different story. A standard raw file that comes directly out of your camera is going Teoh be proprietary to that particular brand of camera. Some camera manufacturers create their own software, where you can process your raw files inside of that software. A DMG file, on the other hand, is a non proprietary file type, and some believe that it has the potential for a longer shelf life. For example, if a camera manufacturer were to go out of business and those raw files were no longer produced, it's possible in the future, the third party software may stop allowing those file types to be used in their software. Now that's just one thing that may be an advantage. However, the biggest advantage to a DMG file is how it stores the data and the changes that you make inside of light rumor, other raw processing software to show you how this works. Let me Go ahead and show you both of these files in the finder. In my Mac, on the left, I have a Fujifilm raw file or an R A F file. Next to it is an ex MP file. The Exon P file stores all of the processing data that is done to this image such as exposure, contrast, cropping, etcetera. The DMG file, however, stores all of that processing data inside of the file itself. Now, that's really useful, because I'm not worried about losing that data. If the X and P file were to be deleted, if that ex MP file were to be deleted, I wouldn't lose the actual image file itself. I would just lose everything that I've done to it. So the DMG Files can be a good way to simplify that file structure behind the scenes 13. 3.01 — Move, Sort, and Delete Folders and Files: the library module is your home base in light room. It's where you will view and organize your photos into folders and collections before bringing them into the other modules. Throughout this chapter, I will be demonstrating many of the ways you can organize, label, sort and even find files inside of the library module. And to start, let's take a look at the folders panel. This is where you will be most of the time, so I'm gonna go through how to re arrange and organize your folders and photos. The folders that you see in the folders panel in light room mirrors. What you have on your computer for whichever folders or images that you've imported. Light room does not have a mysterious way of organizing your image is what you see. Here is exactly how it set up inside of your computer. If I were to right, click over one of these folders, I can select Show and Finder, and it's gonna show me that folder exactly where it's located inside of my computer, and one rule that you need to follow when using light room is to only move and relocate folders and photos within light room if you start moving your photos in their folders like I have here with my desktop folder Oven light rooms not going to know what happened to that folder. But if I move things around inside of light room, then it knows, and it remembers where those things got moved to. This little plus icon gives you a few different options. With the root folder display, you can select a few different ways to actually view those names of the folders. The default and most simplest and cleanest method is the folder name only, but you can actually see the path and where those air located on your computer, if you'd like to as well, the show photos and sub folders options is checked by default. If I were to uncheck it now, I'm only seeing the photos in those specific folders here. It shows me that my raw photos folder has zero photos, but that's because there are sub folders inside of each of those folders containing images , so it's only gonna show me a number. When I get to that folder containing those images, I prefer to keep this option checked. It gets a little complicated and confusing when you keep saying zero next to each of those folders, and I want to make sure that I'm not removing any folders that actually contain hundreds and hundreds of images. If you need to relocate folders around, it's a simple as dragging and dropping. I'm going to move this folder titled 1000 Acres into my 2016 folder. So I just click it and drag it and release a windows going to pop up, informing me that I am going to be moving some files on my disk. They're going to show that they're moved here in light room, but they're also going to be moved on my computer. I did this intentionally, so go ahead and click move. And now those photos are in their new folder. When you click on a folder, you'll see all of the photos contained inside of that folder itself. Right now, I'm viewing my images in loop view. If I'd like to view them in grid view, I can press G and to get back to Luke View, you can use the keyboard shortcut e or press the space bar. You can also decrease or increase the size of your thumb nails by using the plus and minus keys. You can also choose the sort order of your images over the menu, go to view, sort and then select an option. You can also access this down in the toolbar. If you don't see the toolbar, press the tiki, and if you don't see the sort option, go to the little drop down error on the right and make sure that sorting is selected. You can also create a manual sort by dragging and dropping. Another thing you can do is remove photos from the catalogue, and you can even delete them off of your disk. If you'd like to remove photos, select them inside of the grid view right click and choose removed photos. Light room, then asks if I would like to remove them or delete them. Removing the photos doesn't actually delete the photos off of my computer. It's just telling the catalog that I don't want to see them inside of this folder. If you'd like to keep those photos the night highly recommend just selecting remove. But if their images that obviously or just trash or maybe a corrupted file, then you may want to leave it here. Oh, click. Remove. You can also remove folders, and this is a good option if you have a folder that is no longer on your computer. This folder was either deleted or moved inside of my computer and not inside of light room , But I don't really need it in light room. So I'm going to right click and select. Remove a warning pops up just telling me that those photos are going to be removed and I'll just go ahead and click that button to make that folder disappear. 14. 3.02 — Customizing the Workspace: Now I'm going to discuss a little bit of the workspace and how you can customize the visibility of the panels to work best for you. First of all, you can resize the left right and bottom panels just hover over the edge of the panel and drug to the left or right to make it larger or smaller. When you re size the filmstrip, it actually makes those a thumbnail images larger or smaller, depending on the size of the panel. You can also hide the panels independently by clicking on the little arrows on the left, right, top or bottom. Those panels will be hidden when you're not using them, but if you hover near the arrow, they will appear so you can actually access and make changes to that panel. Or, if you'd like, you can toggle visibility the panels with a few keyboard shortcuts. Use the tab key to hide the left and right panels and use the shift tab key to hide all of the panels. Again. They will pop up and be visible if you hover over those arrows. If it any time you find that you need to renew the visibility of all of the panels. Just toggle that shift tab key a few times, and everything will pop back into view. Another one of my favorite view modes is to use the F key, and that will toggle the entire image into a full screen display. This is great for impromptu slide shows, or just to view your photo large and beautiful on your screen without the disruption of any of the light room handles on the side. To get out of this view, are there press the F key or the escape key? 15. 3.03 — Toggle the Visibility of Panels and Modules: When you use light room, you may find that there are panels and modules that you just don't find yourself using. The good news is that you can get these panels and modules out of your view so they don't clutter up your workspace. Let's start with panels. I'll go over on the right and let's say I just don't happen to use the keyword list. If I right click over any of those panels, I'm given a list of all of the available panels in that side inside of this specific module . In this case, I'm gonna go ahead and hide the keyword list, and I'll hide the comments if I change my mind. And I would like to see those panels in the future. I just need to right click and then at a check box next to that item. This also works in the develop module. You can right click over any of the panels and then just uncheck the ones that you'd like to hide at the top. It's the same thing, right? Click over the module selector and uncheck the modules that you don't want to see. This is a great way to customize your workspace and de clutter it to make it easier to work inside of 16. 3.04 — Viewing Panels in Solo Mode: I like to stay organized in light room. And not only do I like my photographs to be organized, I also like my application and the panels toe look nice and clean and be presented and a very easy to read manner if you happen to have a lot of tabs open, like over here on the right in the develop module, I have a lot of these tabs dropped down, and that makes it difficult for me to jump back and forth if I need to make adjustments in different panels. The easiest way to fix this is to collapse all of the panels except for one. And the way you do that is by pressing and holding the option or all key and then clicking on one of those drop down arrows. Now each of those panels will only open one at a time. You can do the same over on the left, and if you were to go into the library module, you could do the same there as well on both the left and the right. This works across all of the modules inside of light room 17. 3.05 — Setting the View Options: in the library module, There are quite a few different ways that you can customize the data that you see when in both the grid and a loop view. To get to these options, you can right click and go down to view options. It's also located in the menu as well. At the top, you can toggle back and forth between the grid view and the loop view. And for the most part, all of these changes are self explanatory. The settings also change as you move things around and check different boxes. So it's really easy to see what it's going to look like when you are finished making all of your adjustments. One of the things I actually really like are these little thumbnail badges. They may not mean very much just by looking at them, but if you hover over them, you can actually see what they're referring to. And if you click on them, it will actually take you to those settings. Now, this just told me that I have made develop changes to this image, which is likely in almost all cases on my photos. There's always going to be some type of adjustment but other things that tells me I'll go back in the grid views a little easier to see. It also tells me that this photo is in a collection. So if I click on that little thumbnail badge, it shows me the collections that it's in. In this case, it's on Lee inside of the quick collection. But if I were to click on that, it would take me into the quick collection. It's also telling me that it has GPS coordinates embedded into the photo, So if I click on that, then it will show me the map view and where that image was photographed. In terms of the view modes, you can show us much or as little as you like. It's really up to you, and it's a very personal preference. Sometimes I change things around, depending on what I'm doing or if I'm presenting photos inside of light room in a teaching environment. But it's kind of a nice feature. You're able to keep things as detailed or as minimalistic as you like. 18. 3.06 — Loupe Overlay: Layout Image: Sometimes finding the perfect image to use in a greeting card or a certain type of design could be a little challenging and often times. If you have your design already set up, you may be left with having to pull a whole bunch of different photos in and just placing them to see if they work with your design. Thankfully, like Room has a really cool and kind of a hidden feature that allows you to preview those designs as an overlay within light room to get started, go up to view, loop over way and then choose layout image. I haven't overlay that I created using canvas dot com, and it's a birthday card. It's a transparent PNG file, which means that the entire image is see through except for the details that you can see, such as the text and the border. I'll go ahead and choose that, and now I can see what this will look like as an overlay on top of my photos. If I hold the commander control key down, I'm given a few different options. I can move and resize the overlay. That way, if you haven't overlay that you don't want to encompass the entire image than you can resize it and relocate it. And if I want to reset the positioning in the size, then I could just double click, and it will bring it back to that full frame view at the bottom, you can reduce the opacity of the overlay. That way, if your overlay doesn't have any transparency than you're still able to preview the positioning of your images. And if you want to see this with a dark or a light Matt, you can move that to the right or the left is just kind of changing that background preview of your light room window. So now from here I can scroll through, I can see which images might work a little bit better. This seems like it's going to work better with horizontal photos. I'm gonna bring that opacity back to 100 so we can see it all. And now you can just continue looking through your images to find a photo that fits this particular design best. But your image doesn't necessarily have to be perfect as is. If you find something that you think might work, you can take it into the develop module and make some changes. For example, maybe with this photo I want to do a quick crop and make it Ah, horizontal photo and then bring it back into the library module. That may work as well. Or maybe I find a photo that works. But I need to flip the photo in order for it to fit with the design. In this case, I could go up to photo flip horizontal and now my images sitting perfectly inside of this frame. Now, keep in mind when you export your files, you won't actually be exporting them with this overlay. This is only a preview of what you'll get, so you would need to export the photo and then bring it into your design in whatever design program you're using. 19. 3.07 — The Toolbar: the toolbar in the library module can be a very handy feature to use, and you may need to access it from time to time. If you don't see it, press the tiki that will hide and reveal the toolbar. Sometimes it gets hidden away, so that's a good keyboard shortcut to remember. And also, if you don't happen to see the setting that you want, or if you just want to make sure that everything is visible, click on the little drop down there on the far right. This will allow you to reveal and even hide certain features inside of that toolbar. 20. 3.08 — Adding Metadata to Photos: making changes to metadata in light room is really easy to do, especially because you can batch at it as many photos as you'd like. I'll start out by selecting a group of photos that are similar in this case, some horses that we saw along side of the road and we're in the Big Island of Hawaii and then on the right, I can access the metadata or even a keyword panel for keywords. I'll go ahead and add some simple things. Horses. Hawaii, Big Island. You could describe as much or as little about your photos as you like the keywords air really, just for you to be able to locate your photos down the road. But depending on where you export your files, they may also be read by those online services in the metadata. You can use the drop down here to access some of the other options. Here. I have the quick describe set, and so I could easily add a caption that would apply to all of these photographs. After I press the return key, it's asking me if I want to apply. The metadata changed to just the one photo or all of the photos, and I'm going to select that. I want to apply it to the selected photos. And now if I just select on one photo, you can see that those changes are applied. 21. 3.09 — Creating a Metadata Preset: Adding your information to your photographs is a good way to attribute copyright and ownership of your images. It doesn't necessarily protect them from infringement, but it gives people a place to look if they're trying to find out who the photograph belongs to. Also, many photo sharing sites can read the metadata from inside of your photograph, and the best way to get that information into your image is through a metadata preset. To create a metadata preset, go over to the metadata panel on the right and the preset drop down select edit presets. This photograph already has some information associated with it already, but I can still make some changes. You'll notice that there are some other options at the top, like the basic info camera info and so on. Many of these boxes are specific to out photograph, so you'll want to fill those out individually, and you could do a lot of that inside of the metadata panel. The preset, however, is going to have the general information is primarily going to be about the photographer. For example, the copyright is gonna have my name. I have my girl creator. You can be a specific or is vague with your address as you like. You could even include your phone number, email, etcetera. If there is a check next to that item, then that means that that information is going to be saved with the preset. All I have is my personal information selected, so the top I'm going to select to save this as a new preset Go ahead and create that, and then I'll click. Done. Now I can highlight all of the photos inside of this folder and choose that preset for those metadata updates to be applied. You can also use these metadata presets when you're importing your images, which is a great way to ensure that you always have your information associated with your photographs. And if you'd like to see more metadata information, show up in that metadata panel. Use the drop down at the top and you can see as much information as you would like 22. 3.10 — Converting Raw Files to DNG: converting photos to DMG is a very simple process. Just select the photo or group of photos that you'd like to convert and go to a library. Convert photos to DMG. You'll likely only want to convert the raw files. And if you're not concerned with keeping the original raw files in this case thief Fujifilm R A F files you can select to delete the originals after successful conversion. This will prevent you from having duplicates, but this is totally up to you. If you'd like to keep them as a backup, go ahead. File extension is going to be. DMG can be either lower case or upper case That's up to you in terms of compatibility. It's OK to keep it at the highest setting. It's more than likely that the software you're using is going to be able to read this version of camera. However, if you know you have an older version of let's say photo shop on your computer and you know that Kamerad version that that will use that you can always select a different camera version. J preg preview at this point is really unimportant. The default is medium size so you can just keep it there and I tend to just keep the others to their default settings and click OK, Those files will just convert behind the scene, and eventually you will see that new DMG file type alongside it. 23. 3.11 — Saving EXIF as Side-Car Files: one of the things that light room does inside of the catalogue is it stores the data that you create. In other words, if you make edits to a photograph, it's going to store those changes inside the catalog itself. And this is the default setting. However, if your catalogue were to become corrupt, if you lose the catalog or if anything happens where you cannot recover it, you are also going to lose all of your processing information on your photographs, and that could be a really big deal. My preference from my photographs is to save all of that data, either inside of D and G files or alongside the file in a sidecar file or an ex MP file. And there's a setting inside of light room to make sure that you also save all of that data alongside the file so you don't lose it if anything happens to that catalogue. To do so, go upto light room catalog settings and in the metadata section, check the box that says automatically right changes into ex MP. Now, any processing you do in light room is going to be saved alongside that ex MP or sidecar file. 24. 3.12 — Organizing with Collections: collections are a way for you to group and organize your photographs without actually having to move the file into a new folder or create a copy of that file somewhere else. The collections only reference the image and then show you those grouped images together. The collections tab down at the bottom is going to be where most of this is going to take place. However, the catalogue tab, there's also a collection called a Quick Collection. This is a temporary collection that you can use to temporarily group photographs. One example of how I use a quick collection is old groups and photos together. If I'm exporting them for, say, a block post or something I want to share online, it's not necessarily something I need to keep long term. Next to the quick collection, you'll notice a plus sign That plus sign means that this collection is the target collection. This allows you to quickly, with just one keyboard shortcut. Add photos to that collection. So go ahead and start doing that. I'm gonna click on this texture file, and the fastest way to add an image to the target collection is to use a keyboard shortcut B. We'll continue scrolling down. I'm looking for textures, and I'll click on another one. Press B. Gonna highlight these two images and then press be Seiken, do a group of them together and just real quickly. Another way you can add to the quick collection is to use the pink can tool, select the paint can and choose target collection, and they just spray paint the ones you want to add. Now, if I go up to the quick collection and select it, you could see the photos that I just added. However, I would like to make this a permanent collection inside of the collections panel. To create a collection, you can click on that plus icon and select to create collection. From here, you can also create smart collections or collections sets, which are basically folders that allow you to organize your collections inside of the collections panel. However, I have already started to collect some of these texture images, and I have them in the quick collection. So what I can do from here is right Click over that quick collection and select Save quick Collection. Now we'll just give it a name and I don't need that quick collection any longer, so go ahead and clear it and then click safe. Now, my new textures collection is in the collection panel. If I want to continue adding to this the fastest ways by making it a target collection. So all right, click and shoes set as target collection, and that plus icon now appears next to the textures collection. I'll go back into the folder I was working on. They will find a few textures I haven't added yet, highlight them and press the Beaky. And now those new textures air added to my new collection. 25. 3.13 — Group Similar Files with Smart Collections: If you do a lot of HDR or panoramic merging inside of light room, the one really good way for you to organize this is by using a smart collection. Sometimes it can be difficult to locate that HDR file within your folder of all of your other images, especially when you have a lot of bracketed files, panel files, maybe a little easier to locate. But I can still be nice to have them all group together. So you know where to go when you want to edit those photos. I have one of these HDR merged files selected here in the grid view in depending on how your view options were set, you can actually see that the file name contains HDR. By default, HDR files will have HD are included in their file name when their merged and for Panorama files, it will have panel added to the file name. So to group these files, I'll go over to the collections panel select Create Smart Collection. I'll title this one HDR and then for the variables. I'm going to select file name, make sure it's set to contains and then type HDR. This will find all of the files that have hdr within the file name and group them into a collection. And it will do this automatically an auto update as you create more of own click create, and now you can see all of those photos that I've created as merged HDR is within light room. And then I could do the same for panoramas. I'll create another smart collection title this one Pan owes, and then, instead of HDR all type Pano and Click create. Now you can see all of the merge Panorama is that I've created in light room as well. 26. 3.14 — Locating a Photo’s Folder in Lightroom (or on Your Computer): There may be times when you're viewing a photo in light room, and you need to either access that photo from within the folder and light room or in the folder on your computer. Now, in this case, I have a photo selected and I'm inside of a collection. So I'm not actually inside of the folder where this photograph is located. But let's say I needed to go to that folder because I am either looking for another image that similar, or, for whatever reason, I need to go back to that folder in the light room library. I do that by right clicking and selecting Go to folder and library. The folder is opened on the left in the polders panel, and I can scroll around and see some of the other images alongside it. Now let's say I need to access this photograph in my computer and not in sight of the light room catalog. To do this, I would just right click again and select Show in Finder or on a PC show in Explorer. A filter will pop it. Then it will show me that photograph, along with all of the other photographs in that folder 27. 3.15 — Using Survey mode to find your best images: the survey mode is one of my favorite organizational tools in light room. It's a really good way to highlight certain photos and eliminate the ones that you don't want to work on. Let's go ahead and jump into it. I'm going to select these three photos of the bottom by clicking on the first image, holding the shift key and then clicking on that last image. These images are very similar, and I want to choose the one that I like the best to get to the survey mode. I can either click on this button in the toolbar or press the end key. If I'd like to have a little more real estate, I'll press the tab key that will hide the left and right panels. Now I'm able to see all three of these images, and it's a little bit easier for me to determine which one I like better. If I hover over the image, some very small flag icons appear on the bottom left in terms of flagging. I can either pick or reject this image. I can also use a keyboard shortcut. Let's say I don't like this photo at all. I know I never want to use it. So in that case I might want to press X, which is going to reject that photo. Now, if you look in the thumbnail view on the bottom, you can see that that photo on the left is great out. In terms of the survey mode, I can also click on this X button to remove it. From my view, all that does is de select the photo. So now I no longer see it for these two images. There's a very subtle difference in the light and the shadows on the left side of the glass . On the left, there's a little bit more shadow, and on the right, I used a reflector to bring some light back into that glass. And between these two photos, I really like the photo on the left, then images selected. So I'm gonna press P to pick it as my favorite to get out of serving mode. I just press the escape key. Now, if I click off to the side to de select these photos, you can see that I have one photo that I've rejected and one that I've picked, and then I would just continue this process on other similar groupings of photos in this series, 28. 3.16 — The Paint Can: the pain can tool allows you to add either metadata or an adjustment to a photograph just by clicking on it. I'll start out by selecting the paint can tool. And once I do that, I'm given the option of what I want to actually paint to that image you can, either. At a keyword, you can label it with a different color. You can add a flag or rating to it. You can use a metadata and select a metadata preset. If you have one available, you can even apply settings. The default is auto tone, but you can use any of your own saved presets as well. And then you can either rotate or add it to a target collection. For this demonstration, I'm going to add a keyword, and in this case, I'm going to add the keyword behind the scenes. All this use BTS for short. Now when I hover the cursor over the image, a little paint can will appear. If I click once, it will paint that keyword to that image and on the right, let me drop down that keyword panel so you can actually see that keyword being applied. Now let's change what we paint in this time. Let's add a preset. I'll select settings from the drop down, and I'll go into one of my presets. Now, instead of adding a keyword, it's applying a preset to that image. No. One last thing you can do if you are using, let's say the flag setting with the paint can mode if you were to flag certain images, but then you changed your mind and you wanted to remove that flag. Just hold the option are all key and the pink can will turn into a small little eraser, and when you click the image it will remove that paint can setting. 29. 3.17 — Viewing Edits Made Outside of Lightroom: It's always good practice to work from inside of light room any time you want to creatively at it. An image that's in the light room catalogue, However, if you were to make changes to a photograph that is in the light room catalog, but you did it outside of light room in, let's say, photo shopper on one photo, those changes should still be reflected inside of light room. In some cases, it takes an extra step to see those changes. In other cases, it does not. I'll start out with the DMG file. This is the same for other DMG or raw photos. Let me go ahead and open this image in its finder. So go ahead and view it inside of its original folder, and I'm going to open it into photo shop. I was gonna file open and the image opens up into adobe camera raw. I'll convert this to gray scale so we can see an obvious change and click done. And then if I go back into light room, my file is there, but no changes have been made. In order to actually see these changes, I need Teoh scan the metadata of this file. So go up to that image. Right click, go to metadata and select Read metadata from file. A window will pop up, and it's basically asking me if I went to overwrite whatever I've done in light room with whatever I have done outside of light room, and that is what I want to do. So click read, and then it read that I changed the color properties to black and white, and it's reflecting that in the preview. Of course, I could have just as easily made this change inside of light room. I could even press V on my keyboard, which is the shortcut to convert to grayscale. But if you found yourself having to work on your files outside of light room and photo shop , that's the step you'll need to take in order to show those changes inside of the late room catalogue. Working off of a PSD, however, should automatically update those changes. Let's go ahead and view this one in the finder. This is a PSD file. I've already done some editing to inside a photo shop. We'll do commando to open the file on photo shop and just like before, let's go ahead and just convert this quickly to black and white. I'll save the file and close it. Now if I go back into light room, those edits are immediately updated to reflect that change. 30. 3.18 — Renaming Photos: if you need to rename a group of photos, Light room is a good place to do that. In these images, I unintentionally named them Snow. Well, there's no snow in these waterfall photos, so it kind of like toe rename them to reflect the actual photograph. I have that folder selected, so we'll use the keyboard shortcut Commander Control A to select all of those images and then I'll go upto library renamed photos. Renaming photos is just like naming them when you import them. I prefer to use custom name and original final number, so I'll select that and then I'll give this an appropriate title. When I'm finished, I'll click OK, and all of those images will instantly be renamed. 31. 3.19 — Changing a Photo’s Timestamp: every once in a while, I forget to change the setting on my camera to adjust my time. So that way it reflects the current time where I am photographing. When this happens, My time zones, or usually way off in the actual date and time of my photographs is inaccurate. When this happens, I like to shift that time. So that way it is in the appropriate time zone, and my photos reflect accurate time to change time of light room. Go ahead and select the folder that you want to change and then highlight all of those photographs using the keyboard shortcut. Commander Control a. Then good a metadata edit Captured time. I tend to use the shift by set number of hours, which will just all of the photographs. Appropriately, it will just move the time based on the amount of hours that you adjust it to. Then use the drop down to select the appropriate number, and you'll see the corrected time there in that readout. Then, when you're ready, click change all in the date and time will be corrected 32. 3.20 — Merging HDRs: One of the best things about creating HDR and Panorama files inside of light room is that you retain the full edit ability of processing of raw file on the final merged image. When you merge your files together, it creates a DMG file. So you don't need to do any processing to your images before you actually merge them together. You can use your straight out of camera raw images, and once it's emerged file, you still have the ability to non destructively edit all of the same things that you would on a standard raw file. I'm gonna walk you through the process here on how this works, and then I'm going to give you some tips, particularly on speeding this process up or just making it so you don't actually have to be active in the process while merging these files together, which will, in fact, save you time. I have five bracketed images here of tips to lake in a Mount Rainier. I've highlighted them and then I'm gonna go up to photo photo merge HDR. With this step, you need to wait for light room to generate an HDR preview All of the options air over on the right. I tend to keep them, as is with the auto line auto tone, which basically just auto tones the image in the develop module. You can always change it after the fact, and I don't tend to use much Diego saying it just kind of depends on the photographs that I'm working on. So here is my preview, and if I wanted to merge this, then I would just click merch. However, I'm gonna cancel this because I want to show you a faster way to do this. I have these images still selected, and if I were to go up to photo photo merge, if I hold the shift key down, you can see that the keyboard shortcut next to both HDR and Panorama changed a toggle it on and off so you can actually see with that shift key still pressed down. If I click on HDR now, it's creating that HDR, but it's doing it in the background. It will still take about the same amount of time to actually merge those files together. It's just doing it so