Transcripts
1. Introduction: Ciao, I'm Simona and I'm a professional
photo videographer. I started modifying
pictures at the age of 12. And even though
the initial result where terrible with time, loads of courses and endless
time wasted experimenting, I was able to transform my
passion into a full-time job. Run crash course will
teach you how to dramatically improve the
look of your photos. You learn how to
perfectly adjust lighting and master
color grading while also structuring an efficient
workflow using old the basics and advanced
tools within Lightroom. Not only you'll be
able to transform your okay photos
into great photos, you also open up a
whole new vision from standing feeds to you
Brian collaboration and more. Even if you are a beginner, whether you wish to become a
professional photographer, all simply improve
your editing skills. This course is for you. I'll see you there.
2. WorkSpace Overview: Let's start by quickly
overviewing Lightroom. Once you open it
to main taps are on the top right corner
are called Library, Develop map, et cetera. Library and develop pour
the one to use the most, the autobahn, I personally
never touched them. So we're not going to
really dive into it. And then whenever you need
to import new images, you'd need to be
here on library. Lightroom is generally divide
it in four main sections, the left panel to right panel, a center, and the
bottom preview. While in the library,
the left panel shows the navigator and
the group options to retrieve your photos. On the right side you have the Quick Develop option
and key wording, et cetera, which allowed to assign
several options and organized in a
very efficient way your photos on these tours, or especially recommended for professional photographers
who have massive hard drives. And therefore,
we're not going to really dive into it deeply. On the center of this view, we have the photos that we have stored or important or ready. This little menu at
the bottom allowed to modify the view from which
you see these photos. So for example, if I
click single photo, then I can move with my
arrow keys left and right. Or if I want to see the full
gary of my folder selected, then I just need to click on this little
button right here. And then at the bottom
and this little menu, you have old purview
of the photos. And then if you
have more photos, you'll need to right-click, left-click on the arrow. You can, if you have a truck but you can drag your fingers. And then we have
the filter options, which allows you to filter photos that
you want to see here. Okay, now let's go in
the next video and see how we can import photos.
3. Import & Organization: In this video,
we're going to see the important process and the file organization
within Lightroom. Remember that it's always best to import foc photos instead of JPEG is they contain more information and
therefore more colors. So as I said, you need to be in library and you have
multiple options. The first one, H2O and
track directly from the folder that you
want into light room. Or you can go to file, import photos and videos, and then you go and find the folder that you
have the photos within. So for example, I have this one. I put in my hard disk with
a into Lightroom course and then have reference
photos which are the ones that I will show
you doing this crash course. And then you have the option to click on any photo that
you don't want to import. Or what happens is that if these photos have been
previously important than Lightroom will recognize
them as duplicate and therefore one important
joint this time, because within
Lightroom catalog, you can import photos
basically once and he's made to save you space. And as you can see,
he's also written there that appears to be duplicated. Okay. You can even
check or uncheck all. And then the main options
that you have are here. So if you add you add
the photos within Lightroom catalog and will keep them in your
hard drive as well. If you move, the photos
will be moved to a new location and
add it to a catalog. And then you can choose your own location
on the right panel. For example, if you want
to create a new folder within that desktop with
old being portrait photos, you need to go here into a soup folder and
thick piece option. And then you've right
here, for example, you write like
photos from London. And then what
happens is that he's going to create a new folder within desktop called photos from London and
organized by date. Therefore, they'll be
subfolder called 2000 21, and then the date format, you can pick it
whatever you want. And then within that date, then you going to have the
subfolder photos from London. The copy basically
does the same thing, but then he copies that
photo to a new location. So from where you import your photos from this
folder right here, we'll copy into this one that you pick while moving
will remove from this and then move
into their copy as DNG copied to a new location, import the photos and
convert them into a DNG. Dng is a format that contains more information so the
file will be bigger. Net say it's easier, it's kinda of like format. So for example, a R, W is the Sony formatted
then cannot has its own. But to DNG is kind of
like everyone has it. And this case what
I wanted to do, I want to simply add, because the way how
I import photos is that I opened my camera
card and then I copied that photos into a folder that I pick without using the
help of Lightroom. So in this case, I simply put all the photos
into this folder, into the hard drive and
then I'm just going to add the photos into Lightroom, cover them in this way. And then Lightroom will
import old files right here. And then within library, I can go and quick develop
and see some of the photos. For example, I
double-click on one and then I can increase
the exposure a tiny bit to see if I may like without needing to go
on the develop mode, which is the one that will allow all the main adjustments. So now let's understand
how it works with catalogs and what collections lab room recommends to use
one catalog only, which is the mother
basically of everything. You can use one
catalog if you are a photographer and you want to use one catalog for a personal, one catalog for weddings and
one catalog for trouble. Let's say we're using
the catalog personal. I have one only. And then you can go into
collection which are basically subfolders
of that catalog. And then you can create
a collection set which is the mother of multiple,
single collections. So we can Collection and let's say we call it travel here. We untick this inside a collection set because
this is new one. And then we have the Travel
folder and then we go and select from our previous import the photos that we
want to choose, for example, a Tuesdays
for from Hong Kong. And then I go and collection, create a collection and
then I call it Hong Kong. And then inside a collection
set which is the trouble. And then I include
selected photos create. And then within the trouble, you can see that the
oncoming folders top and you can do it this
with all your photos. Each person organize
photos differently. But just for the sake of
understanding how this works, if you traveled to Italy, you can call that connection
set Italy and have auteur many albums and call them portraits,
architectural landscape. This is totally up to you. Now within each collection set, you can create smart
collections like this one. And it's smart collections
or automatic group of photos given certain roles are based on common data such as five-stars or have
recently added and more. Whenever you want to
create as Mark collection, you can pick the roles
that it should follow. For example, if we want to
create a smart collection, then you need to call
it whatever you want. Portraits, for example,
five stars photos. And then you need to
set the role here. So for example, this
is the first rule, and then we say rating, and then it's greater or
equal than five stars. So Lightroom will create
a smart collection with all the photos that
have five-stars right now is 0 because
there are no five-stars. Let's go here for example, and give this photo number five. So this will add a rating
of five stars right here. And then we can move here, and then we can move here. And these three photos
will be automatically added to the smart
collection of three stars. As you can see, these
are three photos within this mark
collection of five stars. Now you can add a lot
of different rules and a live it to you to explore the smart collection as there are a lot of
possibilities within, for example, if you
have a label text, if you're smart preview, what kind of source
you have the date, camera Info, Size that
callers and oldest. Thanks. And you can even multiply them by adding more
rules and then pick and create selections
that you prefer if you want. Also, you can untick that
inside a collection set. If you want to put a
smart collection within that travel collection
set that we created before and
so on, so forth. As I mentioned, I don't use
much the collection tools. I really like just to
put my photos into folders and then I know
what the name I organize, usually in files per year, so on to 2020. I know that I went to Hawaii, I went to there, I went to here, went to Hong
Kong and all those things. So I just like to have the
names, as you can see here, I have some previously
imported photos that are in my outer hard drive
and I know by name. Now this is completely personal and I know
that a lot of people simply use the date to
organize their thoughts. This is totally up to you. Okay, thanks for watching. I'll see you in the next one.
4. Preferences and Watermark: As in every software, you can modify the preferences
based on your liking. So we just need to
go into that room. Preferences. And then here there are a bunch of options
that you can pick. I never really touched anything. The only thing that
I want to show you as this one
in find handling. So whenever you're
copying is a DNG, as we said before,
when you import, you can pick the size of the CPAC preview of the photos that you're going
to see in Lyra. And then one thing that I
wanted to add is that here when you're going to lie rooms
classic basically options became click on Edit, Watermark. So if you want to export your
photos, we'd award a mark. You've right here, the text that you want here is my name. And then you can
pick the opacity, the offset afraid use. And here they're old
options for editing. The watermark effects and style graphics and
everything like that. You can also pick your own logo by choosing the image
that you prefer. And you can pick texts, graphic, and all these things. Now, old show you towards the end of the
course on how you can add while exporting photos and
gave this was a quick one. I'll see you at the next one.
5. Selection with Rating, Labels and Filters : In this video, I'll show you
how to choose your photos. You can have a look at
filters, labels, and grading. So after you've important
all your photos on the library section, you can quickly develop your photos as I
quickly showed before. So you can adjust
exposure, Clarity, and Vibrance of your single
photos and a white bands. And then is the in
the lower section, you can add key wording metadata and comments to your photos. Now, rating is super important. I quickly showing you before
that we put the number 5, so we assign five-stars
through these three photos. Usually I do it in library, but keep in mind, you can
assign the frame ratings, labels are stars even when you are in the develop section, but a slightly slower to move between photos if you don't
have a powerful computer. So in library,
you're working with previews and therefore is a
little bit better and faster. Of course, when you go out for a shooting and you took
a bunch of photos, you don't want to add in 10, but you want to select
all the best photos. So what I usually do is that here we are in the gallery mode, but if I double-click
on one photo, it goes on the single photo and then I can move with my arrow key towards the right
and then the left. Of course, based on
the preview that you see here at the bottom. And then what you can do is
you can click one to five to assign one to five stars
to that specific photo. For example, this
one, I like it, I put one star and then
you can see that it appeared here and it
appeared here as well. This one hasn't really one-star. I can put two stars. This one has one star, so I can put even three stars. Just clicking the
number on the keyboard. You prefer, you can
always modify this. So if you have three
and you want to put 0, you just click 0 and
then goes away too. Okay, Let's go back to
the gallery option. And then you see that I put stars and you can see them
here so wildly these so powerful is because on the bottom right corner you
have the filter options. And basically this allows
you to filter and see only the photos based on the
parameters that you pick. For example, if I go on failure, then this will pop
up and will show me only the photos greater
or equal than one star. I can modify this and put
just equal to one star. And we're going to see only
the photos, wait one star. And then if I wanted to do more, if I wanted to 2, then there is just one photo we choose stars. But if I want to see all the
photos that we choose stars, or more than any typic rating is greater than or equal to. There you go. And even now, the
photos that we selected before with five
stars will appear. Now, let's deselect this tarsier so I can see all the photos
both with zeros stars, one star is five, everything. So what I usually do when I import all the photos
from a shooting, I select all the
acceptable photos, at least executable
with one single star. And then what I do is I select all the
photos with 0 stars. So here and go in filter rated. And then I select equal
to remove one photo, so just the 0, and then I
select them all from here. Keep Shift selected here, or common a or you
go even in gallery. And then you can see these
four simple one selected, I click Command a to select
them all and I delete all that photos with 0 stars because usually the
one stereo stars, I will never use them again. So there's no point
they occupy only space. So in the second round, when I selected all the
photos with one star, I watch them back again. And then I will select number 2 to assign two stars to the
ones that I want to edit. So the ones that they really, really like after I do that, I select with three
only the very, very best photos that I want to. Maybe important
Photoshop and kind of modify or maybe post
on social media. And then you can use
also the fourth, fifth star, based on
your editing process. Lightroom allows also to select photos and
give them a flag. And even here in the same case, let's flag two pictures
you can go and no filters. Then you go inflect. So here there are two photos. This is another way to
kind of label your photos. So that leaves the
option to assign invading flags and also
labels like colors. And you can assign, for example, to base picture a red color. And then at the same time as you can see,
these became red. You can filter and here
you have the colors. So you can just pick all
the selected colored. And then this can be also used for smart collections
as I showed you before. So in the rule, so
smart collection, you can put that label
and Lightroom will automatically find
all the photos labeled with the product color. These are all different types of labeling options
that you have here. And then you can also,
for example, say, I just want to see
the photos that have raiding one and call it red. And then this will pop, pop, while if I remove
this, for example, equal to two, then this
photo will not be shown as, as just one rating. And here I put equal to instead of greater or equal to one. Now, just a quick shortcut. If you want to flag a photo, you can just click P and
this will be flagged. And if you wonder
for Jack that photo, you just need to click X
and this is set as reject. Now this symbol means rejected. Well, this one means flagged. If you want to remove
that red label and you can go into photo, right-click and then setColor rebel and then you
click on read again, and then this will disappear. Now it's time to
look at fun part. In the next video, we're
going to have a look at the develop mode. See you there.
6. Develop Mode: This video will go into the
exciting part develop mode. So here we are library and then you just need
to click on develop. And it will show you the
photos that you've selected. And then the bottom here, you have the preview old photos. This is the main
window light room that allows to edit your photos. On the left side we
have the navigator, same as the library mode and useful to control the zoom of the photo and the preview of our presets whenever
you using them, the two main options
are fit and fill. Fit will allow to see all the photo within
the central workspace. Well, if you click on Fill, then we're remove
these gray parts and fill out the lab room space. Now, keep in mind that
I barrow use this just because I like to use shortcuts for zooming
in and zooming out, especially because
it will happen very often, you're
going to do so. If you have a trackpad, the best way is to
pinch in and pinch out. If not, you can
use a common plus or control plus on
Windows and comment Minus to zoom in and zoom
out for a member this because it will save you an incredible amount of time. Bottom, as I already mentioned, you can find presets. What is a preset
is basically a set of settings and colors that you can import from other
creators or you can create on your own. This will save you a lot
of time and they allow to have consistency
in your photos and lettering the course we'll see how to create
new presets and how we can Import Presets
from external sources. On the bottom, we find
a classic sequence of photos you have
in the folder. Then you're editing the photos. And based on the full term that you utilized here on the right, as I've just shown you before, then you have the
options to control the second screen right
here, for example, now that I'm having two screens, I can select it and see what's happening
in the other screen. And then you can just
customize your own options. Keep in mind that
whenever you want, you can select multiple photos by holding the comment option or control if you're on
Windows and then click on the photos like in all the
programs and software, different views, you have the option to use their reference
view, for example here. So you drag and drop
the photo that you want to keep it as
a reference photo. For example, if you need to match the colors of
another picture, and then you can modify
just the right photos. You have the before
and after option, both in horizontal and then you have different
type of views. For example, this
one is this play, or here's the top bottom and
then the top bottom split. Even when you have
the reference view, you have left-right
or top-bottom. And then you can just
go back to normal. Whenever you are in a photo,
you can right-click on that photo and create
a virtual copy. This is useful because you
can edit the same photo in two different ways and
saving both copies. So in this case you
have a virtual copy where I can put
everything in yellow, but then the other one is not affected even though
it's a virtual copy. And this one I can put
all the blue so I can pick the one that
I prefer the most, work the front at it. If you want to change these
Cray background in that room, you can just right-click and
pick the one you prefer. This is useful if
you need to add it photo-based on
future outcome. For example, if you need to have a wide advertising background or whatever you want,
this is useful. On this little
arrow on the right. You can pick what to see
on the spot right here. For example, if I wanted
to add this slideshow, if I want to seed color label, if I want to see their rating. And these photos deselected the flagging which
was on before. And I want to see maybe
the create overlay. So for example here I
can modify that created. I'm seeing if I want to keep it, really depends and
it's up to you or you want to use, okay. And then you have the panel on the top here we
have the histogram where we can basically see the left side
represents the shadows. And then here on very, very close to the
edge f to blacks. And then you have the
exposure here into midtones, highlights and whites here. So if you want even here you can top and adjust
that part of you holding and it's
become highlight it and then just dragging
to the right, to the left. If you want to use this slider, which is the same exact thing as using the slider that
we aren't seeing. There, we're looking afterwards. For example, if you have a look, These exposure, so you're shrugging the whole exposure up. R here is moving even on the
shadows on the slider below. These are right here, basically shows when
you lose details, whether you're looking at the shadows or the
highlights, for example, right now I click it and
I see that invasive, basically smaller fat
dodged are no details. The highlights are burned. If I move the Exposure old, the way up, more
parts will be burned. Therefore will become red. And lightroom basically
tells you, Hey, be careful because
these part you lost all the details
is completely white. Then we have the
local adjustments. Here we have the crop tool. Here's removal, red eye filters, and then we have the
basic adjustments, color, black and white. So if you wanted
to see your photo directly in black and white, you just need to click here. And then if you want to remove the option that we set before
hide highlight clipping, you just need to click
here and you're good at the same thing you can do
here with the shadows. So you're going to see where the shadows elements are lost. So as you can see, it becomes blue where it's
completely pitch black. So there's no detail
here and these parts. So here we have all
the main sliders. We've got the tongue
curve, HSL and colors, color creating the
telescope lens correction, transforming all the things. Keep in mind that
whenever we make some adjustments in the Spanner, for example, here, there's
just put it like this. You can click on these
two rectangles right here to deselect all the panel. So you won't see any more the
change that you made using, for example, in this
case the tone curve. Then we activate it again, and then it goes back to
the edit that we picked. Tone curve is fully manual or otherwise you can pick the
parametric curve where you basically have
the possibility to increase kind of custom curve. So you go and highlights
midtones and this helps you, if you don't want
to do it manually, can also pick these
points and select where the curve is curving. Then you can increase
even using the slider or simply track up and down. So if you wanted
to use the manual, you can just click on the curve and then creates a new point. And we'll adapt based
on where you drag it. We have the HSL and colors, we have two different mode. If you click on HSL, you will see all the
saturation colors here. And then you're
going aluminums and older cars, any one tab, or if you go into color,
you pick one color and then you see hue saturation
or the minutes here. Color grading allows to assign two shadows meet sense in
high that certain colors. For example, if I want to
put all the shadows blue, I drag it here and move
it towards and blue. And as you can see,
the shadows here became blue in the shadows or at a dark part of the image. And then we have the
Detail tab where you can increase or decrease the sharpening and
noise reduction. Be careful about these
because he's pretty heavy. So make sure to do it last. Then we have the
lens correction. For example, this is
been as being shot on a Sony 55
millimeter F1 point. A Lightroom automatically
texts the lens and then will decrease or
increase their torsion of igniting based on
certain parameters. But if you want, you can
modify these parameters and decrease or increase that these torsion at
the uniting yourself. And then we have
the transform panel super-useful in architecture, where you can basically
move vertically, horizontally, image the
aspect under rotation. And then you have the
panels that allow you to control these things
automatically. Then you have effects where
you can create a big netting. Okay, let's remove
the shadows right here and the highlights as well. And then if you go into right, you create white netting
and if you go on the left, you go on black VNet. Then you can add grain
for vintage effect. And then we have the last
one which is calibration. And this is probably the most
difficult yet powerful tab inside that room to make it easy to understand
the calibration is how you tell Lightroom
to interpret. The primary colors are
red, green, and blue. Changing these
value differs from changing the values
in the HSL panel because they affect the
overall definition of RGB. Changing blues into
HSL panel will target areas of the
image that appears blue, reverse changing blue in the camera calibration
panel will affect all the pixel that
contain blow in the mix. This will change the
color cast that shadows have green and magenta
canceling each other out. Every camera lens manufacturer has its own calibration
and this is why sometimes you hear that some cameras have better
skin colors calibration, but that's not a big deal. Final buttons right here are
previews and recent reset. When you want to
completely reset all the adjustments that you made and go back to
the original image. Okay, visible for
the Develop menu. I'll let you in the
next lesson where we're talking about
editing composition.
7. Editing pt1 - Composition: First thing that we need to do when we imported for
us and we started editing is making sure that the composition is right
before cropping the image, I always check the perspective. First thing to do is to enable the profile correction
that I showed you before. So usually Lightroom
automatically the text, the lens that you used. Otherwise you can select
it manually and you can use the slider to
increase or decrease, that is torsion and netting, especially while shooting
architecture or urban. Even in our photos, we need to use the
transform tool. There are some automatic
buttons right here to alter tool works very well
and does everything for you. It's a very quick tool, but not always perfect. So let's see, In this case, it worked very well
to level tool will automatically adjust your
horizontal lines while the vertical tool
analyzes and then adjust the vertical lines
within your photos, the full adjustments
option takes into account old vertical and
horizontal lines plus the feature of
the outer options. Many times this tool
just doesn't work, but you can try, for example, in this case, let's
see what happens. Yeah, I kind of like it, but I would prefer
the Ultra tool, which is basically
started in the photo, is much more central and
it's just better for me guided to talk for Cornyn. And probably the best option
is basically gathered manual mode that pull is
straightforward to use juice, choose the line that
you wish to adjust. For example, right
here, Let's go. And then we got a
little bit down the line and select
the right part. And then we go and select
there are highs and right now. So we go for example here. And then we're gone. This part of the tool. There you go. And this will make
it automatically, and this looks
pretty good, right? So once you selected the
two lines like room will automatically adjust your
image based on your guidance, the vertical and the
horizontal line, okay, click done for us it,
if this doesn't work, you can use the manual sliders, which are vertical option, horizontal, rotation,
aspect, scaling, x offset and y offset. So for example, if I wanted
just this one manually, I can rotate tiny bit, move the offset tiny bit, then we do constraint crop. So we'll remove automatically all the white areas that you create while you use
the transform tool. Okay, let's click Auto because
I've really liked this. And then we go back into the crop and trading
tool and top, drag the corners
and make it free. Or I can hold Shift and
make it proportionate. Or if you don't want
to use it manual, you can click the outer button, will do it automatically. Now with fix it we're ready
would transfer so nothing. Or if you want, you can ingest even the angle using a
slider or even in this case, we can simply use these fuller. So you need to pick
a line that spit here is less precise than
the one we used before, but it's still a viable option. There you go. Click Okay, and even
here, Let's go back. You can pick the format
that you prefer. So if you want to post it on IG, they feed vertical
format is four by five or five by seven. Or if you want to post stories, physis 16 by 9, There you go. Now, if you want to
transform it from vertical to horizontal or
from horizontal to vertical, you need to drag this
button holding Shift. And then at a certain
point that room we'll switch it out to Mike
Lee and then you hold it and then
business cropped. This lock right here
allows you to keep that proportionate
dimensions on or off. So if this is unlocked, then this is manual
or you can keep Shift down and make
it proportionate, or you can lock it directly and then you just move it
without holding Shift. And this is not free
anymore if you want, you can also customize
the crate by going into tools and then
Crop Guide Overlay. And then you pick
the one you prefer, or you can click 0 and
change between them and pick the one that you like the most Bayesian decomposition
that you're building. Particular, let's stick
with the rule of thirds, at least the most used, the image is divided
evenly into thirds, both horizontally
and vertically. According to the
rule, the subject of the image is placed at the intersection of those
lines or along themselves. The rule is widely used to
divide the background as well. For example, when we have a photo at the beach
or in this case, what some grass and some sky there is 1 third of this guy. And maybe 1 third of something else and 1
third of the crust. Or you can have
two-thirds of the class, like in this case, and
1 third of the sky. So keep in mind the rural third every time
you drop a picture, for example, this
one looks okay, but we can make it much
better if we increase for exemple first part
and then right here. So what happens is that we are targeting to have 1
third of the sky, 1 third of the
beach to the ocean, and then 1 third of the grass
with the subject within the incest section of The
Great Wave properly this, and then we click Auto, adjust their horizon, and then we're good to go,
perfect composition. Then we can go into the colors. And other option that you
have is that whenever you select the crop, is that you can just draw
on the part that you want. Keep in mind that if
you're working on a raw photo like this one and we see the former
and right here, which is a R, W, or if you have a
DNG char big files, you can crop quite a lot before starting seeing
room 1 and pixels. Well, if you're working on a
smaller images like JPEGs, then I said just to
avoid copying too much depicts or otherwise
the room or will come up. I'm not a rule that I want
to mention whenever you're editing the composition is
redrew him or green space. And according to this rule, we need to paste in front and in the direction of the moving
gustation or subjects. Welcome posed shots
leave space in the direction of the subject
that he's facing or movie, for example, on
these kids that I'm sitting right here on the grass, I'm facing fist directions. And therefore here there is
this patient the picture if we're would crop the
picture and this way, This wouldn't look good. The reason why
wouldn't look good is because I'm facing
towards these part, but these parties
end of the image and the space is behind. These happens when you're
moving or when you're looking, or whenever you doing something
dynamic or even station, for example, in this
picture I'm moving towards the wrath of the
picture and therefore, they space should be
on the right picture. So editing like this would be a mistake because I'm moving towards this direction
and there is, there is no space. So even here when we look
at this image is not really perfect because these
parties not 1 third, but he's slightly more. I'm not on the left line. So if we want to crop the
picture in the best way, just drag these par that
you go, and this is it. So we have one part of
the pop when one part of the cathedral and one part
of this guy with the subject moving towards empty space and stank on the left line of
the rule of third grid. Let's have one last example in this picture so you better
understand these concepts. We go and we tried to cut, put the subjects on the
line of the rule of thirds. And then we have one part of terrain than one part
is lighter terrain, and then one part
of trees and sky with the subject in the
middle of the intersection. This is a good composition. Now keep in mind
that whenever you change the format
of the composition, then of course, you
need to check it back. This case, for example, if we wanted to on
Instagram one by one, then is more of a problem. And I might need to maybe
go down a tiny bit, eliminate this guy
so I can keep myself in the intersection and
can't keep 1 third, 1 third, 1 third. Okay, that's it for this video. Hope you enjoy it. I'm gonna get you in the next
lesson where we're going to talk about colors,
enlighten me, ciao.
8. Editing pt2 - Lighting and Colors: Okay, welcome to
the editing part 2. When we're going to talk
about colors and lighting, this is a crucial part
of the editing process. Keep in mind that in reality, when you edit a photo of the
process is never linear. So you're going back and
forth between adjustments until you find the
perfect settings for that picture
that you're editing. And also keep in mind that
in higher productions, there is a colorist dedicated
only to this function. Mastering colors is
something extremely difficult and it takes
a lot of practice, practice, practice as you
need to train your eye. The first thing that
you want to do is adjusting the white
balance means that the objects which appear white in-person show BY in your photo. You can do these in two ways. First one is you can pick the color picker and
you go in the white of your photos and you click
on it and this will adjust automatically
the temperature and the tint or otherwise, if this doesn't work
or if you don't have any real white objects, then you can drag
manually this slider. If you go under right
with a temperature that called, there'll
be more warm, more towards the yellow while
if you go into the left, will be more winter cold tones, and then you're just a tenth. So you can go magenta or green
based also on your liking. Let's go like that. And remember that if you want, you can just go in
black and white photos. If you're editing portraits that are going to
be black and white. But let's keep it to
college right now. Not we start touching the light, considered that the luminance in a picture goes from 0 to a 100. 0 means completely
black and a 100 completely white at 0 at
100 will lose details. Our goal is to keep the whole
image within the strange, if possible, unless we're
looking for special effects, we need to target to having the highest highlight in
the photo close to a 100, while the darkest
shadow close to 0, we can start by
adjusting the exposure which affects overall image. So for example, in this photo
I want to decrease a bit. Now. Here in this photo, theses completely
burned, as we can see also on the histogram
right here. This is touching,
basically the edge, which means we're
losing holder neatness. And even if I touch this, I see all the lost
details in the image. However, I really like that
kind of vibes in this photo. So in this case is fine. Then you can, after you
have just an exposure, you can touch the
highlights, shadows, the whites, all the black based on what you're looking
for exactly picture. So if you bring down the
highlights in this case, it will have recover a tiny
bit of details in this part. And then we can increase the
shadows if you want to show more or decrease them if you want to create
more contrast, and then the whites and black. So what is the difference
between highlights and whites? Highlights controller
slimmer range of tonal values to
enter the whites. And absolutely key to
understand here is that the highlight slider will not adjust the white
point in the image. Only the white
slider will do that. Seems similar, but you can keep pressing Alt or Option on a Mac, and then you can
slide the sliders and see what are the parts
affected by the image. So you can be more
precise while editing. Now that you've just
that the last thing we can go on the next
tab which is present. And you have texture clarity, dehaze, vibrance and saturation. Texture when you ride to
increase the texture, it can be great for enhancing small details like
grains of sand, leaves and trees and the edge
of Windows, OEM buildings. It's a great tool for
smoothing skin as well when used this way and I will
show later how to do it. Clarity has the effect of increasingly larger details then those affected by texture, which means that it's still very complimentary food
and new texture slider, which has been introduced
recently by that room. One does not replace the other. It has a larger effect
on edge sharpness, which often causes
unwanted halos, such as when darker and
foreground elements like trees and building
touch a bright sky. For example, in this case, when we bump up the
clarity that crazy, we go here and you see
that kind of white halo right here that it just
look not professional. So be very careful when using
this tool and usually tends to wash out bright colors
quite a bit in small details. And it can push the shadows strongly towards the black and
it can increase the noise, these smooth areas
under many conditions, so different from texture and I always play around
with both of them. Be careful when using this. Now the last element is
the haze and either add or remove atmospheric
haze from a photo. If you have a photo with some low-lying fog
in a picture like this one that he's running and that he's ruining the
detail in the background. A lot can be removed by
using the Dehaze slider. So let's have a look high, whereas in this picture. See that, bring up
a little bit of detail and remove that Hayes. And then if you go
on the other side, just increase that haze. For example, even
in this picture, when we increase the
haze, as you can see, we bring back some
beetles on part of the city that was
affected by that. And then at the same time, if you go on the outer side
of this lighter than won't bring in some hace,
extremely dangerous. Most of the time,
beginners tend to overuse these last
tools did I show you? So use them very, very carefully and try to use only local adjustments instead
of the overall picture. After the course,
we're going to see how to use radio filter, graduate filters and
try to use these tools already in certain
parts of the image. And not overall unless you want to create certain
type of effect. But never, never, never, never use this lighters and just drag them all the
way towards it. Maybe you'll have the idea
and the are that might look good all the way
to clarity because you see that punchy edges, that contrast and
it's popping out. At professional photographers
would never use letters all towards the end
or like a lot of clarity, a lot of texture,
a lot of the haze. So be very careful with this. Next up we have vibrance
and saturation. What is the difference between
the two is this saturation affects all the colors
in a picture evenly. Vibrance affects first
highly saturated portions of the scene and usually
focused more on midtones. Then we have the tone
curve at the bottom, we have the shadows and the
highlights and into middle, midtones, the parametric
curve selecting this button right
here is a rate of fixed and works like a guide. So it's pretty easy. One increase the mid zone, you just grab the
middle of the curve and then you drag it up or down. If you want to
decrease the shadows, increase the shadows down
or up and keep going. These are focus point
so you can move them. And in this case, curve will select that point
that is matching this one. There you go. I have
rarely use this one as it doesn't allow
full control, but I prefer to use
the point curve where by clicking on the curve, you can set a point and
then modify that curve, that portion of the
curve that you picked. And by right-clicking, you
can delay that control point, or maybe you can more
and so on, so forth. If you want to create that fade effect that you might
see in many pictures, what you have to do is basically increase that black point. So here is completely black
and here's completely white. So if freed up phase black, then the black one, the black anymore,
but will be great. So in this case you see that
this is not black anymore, but he's more gray. And then if you want,
you can track down these part and then you
create the fade effect. So this is black,
this black anymore. Let's see another example, like in this photo. If you want, we can create three points right here and
then we increase the black. And as you can see, this kind of fade professional-looking
that you see sometimes even with this effect, be very careful,
don't overuse it. And if we haven't looked at this same curve and
when we increase, notice the histogram on the top, what happens when I drag it up? So the shadows that
supposed to be black at 0 is not 0 anymore because
it's not black anymore, but it's become gray, so has increased from 0
towards another number. One of the classic things
that you can do is to use that point curve
through 1 and the shadows when playing in a mid
dose and 1 and highlights. And then you do to S-curve
to increase a little bit the contrast of your
image that you go, you drag up the highlights and
you drag down the shadows, and you can do the same
thing with the RGB curves. So in this case, if we do three points here, the shadows, if we
drive down the shadows, would we remove the reds and increase the greens in
the photo in the shadows? Only? Same thing. Let's take another one. What you wanna do here, you create three different dots. And then if you want to decrease the magenta colors in the highlights and therefore
increase the current colors. You just track them down. And then as you can see, that magenta highlights
are increasing. Same thing would blow phone. I make three different points and it turned curve
and we want to increase that blue into
mid-tones within the picture. Then you increase to mid-sentence and
then you're going to see that photos becoming
more blue the same time, if you wanted to remove blue and add yellow in the shadows, you pick the shadow point and you drag it
towards the yellow. These are becoming much
more yellow and less blue. You can also pick some presets. So if you go on to point, point curve here linear, you have medium contrast, strong contrast as you can see. And we'll do very much the same thing that we
did before manually, but this is just a guide
that does it for you. We'd go and my favorite part, which is the tweaking the colors where your image is
basically become alive. You can use iterative HSL color. I prefer using the colors. Most of these parties
literally try to play around with the sliders and see what
looks good into picture. Very important to note, the skin colors
are always orange. You have a person, you never touched the orange hue because as you can
see right now, I'm becoming completely pink or on the other
side I'm like Hulk. Completely green and yellow. Always, always, always
skin color and orange. Be careful when you
use the orange slider. If you have people, what thing? I usually start
modifying the blues. What I do, I go into blue
and then I drag that blue towards a light colors. There you go. And
then you can decrease the saturation and maybe
increase the luminance. There you go. And then you go in the
aqua colors and you can see how it
affects the image. There are not many aqua
color right here. Okay. Then we go maybe the orange
because there are no people, so I'm allowed to touch it. And let's see if
there's any orange. There's no orange. That means there are
a lot of yellow on that part of image and
we can't maybe and the crazy towards that part for a bit crazy saturation or
increase the saturation. That's totally up to you
based on what you like. And there you go. You're already looking pretty
nice Before and After just, just touching these colors, generally keeping
mind that you really increase the saturation
of the colors, but you always kind of decreased to have
that traumatic look, but really depend on this tile
that you are looking for. So when you want to
edit the photos first, usually start with the blue. And especially on these case because there were
a lot of blues. But then the main
thing is to start with the most popular
colors into picture. In this case, we have
the blue and the cream. So I start from the greens
and maybe go to words stay yellow and then I saturate
them because like that. And then I desaturated
them a little bit and you go play around with
the luminance, okay? And then you go into
blue again towards more than GUA and saturate them. These are already much better
than me for my opinion, width choose small adjustments. Among the most
popular things that I do is here to adjust the blue and the green towards
the yellow and usually the yellow towards orange. This is because
complimentary colors like blue and yellow and orange, they look good together. So whenever I select
aqua is always good to have a kind of orangey
look of the crass, instead of having a pure green, which I don't like at all, this will create more and traumatic looking
effect in the picture. Then we have the next
section which is creating, and this allows you to
control the highlights, shadows, mitts on
individual colors. This case is useful
to keep in mind and complimentary colors
like this image. One clear example is pushing the shadows towards
teal color like so, and highlights towards
the orange, like so. And then you do that
teal and orange. In fact, let's have a
look at another picture. Maybe this one. Put steel. There you go. Then orange. There you go. More orange and then you
increase the saturation of base single
setting. Right there. As you can see, these parts
of the image is becoming more teal and less steel
based on the slider, then you can blend it a little
bit more, blended less, and use the balance to increase how much they highlights or the shadows are affecting
the picture itself. And then we go for decoders. We go into the last part, which is the calibration tab. Consider each color
as a sum of colors. This part, you see the
oranges as oranges. Maybe they contain a little
percentage of blues. So when touched
these calibration, we affect each color, not by the appearance
of by the composition. When we touch the
blue and we move it towards the
teal, for example. So each color that contains even a bit of
blue will be affected. That part of blue will be
more teal and eventually more or less saturated based on the second slider, like so. In this section, you can really, really apply your personal touch and feelings to the picture. And even here, the majority of the times is about
trial and error. For example, let me show you
the photo of the squirrel. These is a brief photo. And let me show you what
happens when I drag that primary reds
towards the orange. Thanks, So, and the
primary towards the teal, like so, boom, completely
changed the image. I was not selecting any parts, but decomposition of
the red and blues was affected and affected the
overall colors of the image. And even here we
can call it kind of teal and orange looking. Then we can increase or
decrease the saturation. Be very careful with this. Never increase too much
and maybe decrees like so. And then you can see how
it affects also the green. So in this case there is no
green right in the picture. But then when I touched the green primary slider than the photo will be
affected anyway, because probably these
colors are a sum of audit colors
contain also Queens. For example, even in this
photo with the power, because that part is green. When we go and select green, we can change the
color of the part. And also this can
be done as well by using the colors lighter. So we'd go into
green or the yellow. Maybe we need to check
and then we can let the part become
whatever color we want. Here. You can change the color
maybe if the background that you go for the part
that is too bright, or for example,
because the subject is green and we want to increase the visibility of the subject. We can increase the
luminance of the part. And this will affect hold the grains because we're
touching the greens. Or if we go back to the
calibration and we can modify even the color of
everything that he just round that
see what happens. This Qasim at the part
change it completely color. Here is literally about
playing around with the colors and go with the look
that you like the most with trial and error k. Now we are ready to talk
about local adjustments, which he's probably
the most powerful tool within Lightroom.
9. Local Adjustments: In this video, we're going to dive into local adjustments, which for me are the most
powerful tool within Lightroom. You can find all the
local adjustments in that room here on the top right. And it can be used to personalize that look
of your pictures and hence details and create
interesting compositions. The first element that I want to show you is the spot removal. This is a powerful
tool that is used to eliminate unwanted
elements in a picture. It can be used to
remove people from an image or imperfections
from your face. Once you click it, there
will be a brush size, feather, opacity and
Cologne or heal. You can use the option clone which copies or not are
part of the image or heal, which analysis that
part that you want to correct the elements
and colors around. Sometimes he doesn't
really work. So usually I tried them both and then see
which one works best. So in this case I'm zooming in, in the picture and
then with my track, but I can drag my
fingers up to increase the size or drag my finger down to decrease
if you don't have a track, but you can use the size
slider increase or decrease. And the fetter, as you can see, the outer circle is
basically the fetter. Why their inner circle
will be affected hall. And then you can
increase or decrease the opacity that will increase or decrease the effect of the
spot removal on the spot. So here, for example, everything that you
need to do using heel, you just select a brush that is big enough to cover all the
people and then you click it. And then now because the
opacity is not a 100 percent, then you'll see
that people below. But if I increase the opacity, there you go, There
will disappear. And then here you can even
modify more or less feather. Now, if you put
too much feather, as you can see, you still see
a little bit of the people. So in this case we need
to decrease the fader. Live it like so. Sounds perfect. Okay, we can remove
even these objects. Just click it, and
then Lightroom will pick automatically
a part of the image that can be used to heal the part that
you clicked on. If you don't like fees part
of the image, you can drag, hold and drag to another part of the image that you
think work better. There you go. Let's do
another example here. We can zoom into the picture, pick this person
tack, then it's gone. Super easy, right? If we go and we tap clone
more or less the same effect. So we just click on the person that we want to
remove. And there you go. Person a is completely gone
and can't see anything. Now, let's try with
this couple right here on the beach
to export removal. Boom. And this is gone. Now, as you can see here, is not really perfect. So what you can try to do these, you drag the part that Lightroom chose and then take it. Here. There you go. So you can see also the phone of the C
investors, perfect, right? So this is for removing
people and then can be used eventually to remove also this on perfection
in the picture. So there you go, and
then there you go. There you go down. And here you can go ahead
and clean all of this part. Once you do this, select
the spot removal. All these points will disappear. But if you want to go
back or change something, you can always click
on the spot removal and then these
will pop up again, all the spot that
you quit before. If you want to remember how was the picture before
you use this tool, you can turn off spot removal in this double of
rectangle right here. Basically you disable
the spot removal that you used on an off. Let me give you another example, removing some
imperfection of the skin. Okay, Let's have a
look at this picture. Now. My friends phase, there are some pimples
that they can be removed. Now this picture is not perfect, but just for the sake
of understanding, you can use both grown or heal. And then you go up very close to people so
you make it perfect. And there you go and
drag you drag to the part of this came that
for you, it looks better. And then back to you go and then you keep going for
basically the whole face. And now if we click
done and we go before, after, super easy, right? Okay, now we're going to talk about the next
local adjustments. And the first one is
the graduated filter. There are two options here. When you click it,
you can either start with some
adjustments, are ready. And for example, right now if I bump up the exposure and then I press and drag to create
a graduated filter. This will apply already what I adjusted before or I can
also dynamically changed. So whenever the filter
is applied already, I can move this slider which
will affect only first part. Or if you want to see
the affected area, you can thick the sparks
show selected mask overlay, which is toggled also by 0. So you can click O on the
keyboard and you toggle, toggle out. There you go. Like this. I like to keep it
off and maybe use the adjustments to see
what is happened for real. Now you can rotate a graduated filter by
going into middle line, keep pressing, and then track. To rotate your filter. You can diminish the
feather by dragging the last line over here
and diminish right there. There you go. Now there's no fetter. Click Done. And then if you see there
is no fetter over here. While if you want to
increase the feather, of course it's
exactly the opposite. You select a filter that
you want to increase. Now we need to zoom in. As I made it too small. There you go. There you go, and now is increased. So basically until this point, until the first line, the filter is a 100
percent working. And then from this
line up to baseline, the filter is feathering away the central line recognize
basically the 50 percent. So here is 50 percent
ON and then here, and then here is 50
percent off until you touch this point where
the filter disappears. Basically, we can anytime
move the filter by drugs or dissenter and
move it wherever you want. Also, you can
double-click on effect here to remove all these
adjustments from the filter. Basically you have
resit the filter. There you go. So it looks like we are here. We made a lot of
adjustments, but, but Bob, then I don't like
this filter anymore, but I like the position. I just double-click
here and all go to 0. Whenever you have
a filter select, you can click New
and then you'll be able to create a new filter. Or whenever you have
a selected filter, you can click brush. And then you'll be able to
either increase the area that the filter affects or even remove the area that the
filter is affecting. So whenever we click brush, you can paint on top of the areas that you
want to effect, same as the filter. And then when you go
and move the filter, the area will basically
stayed the same. But this area that
I painted each having the same
effect as this one. And as I increase or
decrease the exposure, as you can see, the area that we painted is affected evenly. At the same time, what
you can do with a brush, you can click on erase and then delete the areas that
you don't want to see. And then you can also cancel
on the filter itself. Like so. If you have the
erase here selected, and with both the
brush and erase, you can modify the size, the feather, and the flow, which is basically how
hard he's going to cancel or paint on the area. So for example, if
my flow is very, very low and I use the
Erase to cancel this part, one comes up evenly, but will be a tiny bit, tiny bit, tiny bit. Well, if I increase the flow, as you can see here, will cancel the selection. Harder, harder and
harder and harder. And if I want, I can even draw more and more and
more and more and more. And the flow will
increase basically the effect of the
brush or eraser. Whenever we have a
graduated filter, we can use the hue to change the color of
the affected area. So for example, right now, I can move this one and change
the color of the grass. As you can see, if you
thick the fine adjustments, these ladder, we move much, much slower than it was before. So literally to fine
adjust your colors, all the filters have already
some built-in presets. For example, you go
here and then you can pick what you have already. Like burn, dodge, iris
enhance software. Skin is often scheme
teeth whitening. But we're going to have
a look at this when we use the radial
filter afterwards. Then the last thing
that I'm showing you in this menu is deranged mask. So let's create a
new graduated filter that is affecting
all of this area. And then when we scroll
down in this tab, we have the range mask which
is offset that this fault, but then we can change
it to color aluminums. Let's click illuminance. Basically here. You pick the part of the luminous that you
want to effect. For example, if I want to
affect only the highlights, I need to remove the shadows from being
affected right here. And as you can see,
the mask is not present here anymore
where there are shadows, but he's only
present where a dart the highlights right there
or at the same time, if I wanted to do the opposite, I keep the shadows down. I decrease the
highlights right here. And as you can see,
these highlights, they're not effective anymore, but they're affected only
the shadows on the cow. And you can increase the
smoothness of these transition. At the same time,
we can use color. So what we're going
to say to the mask is using the color
picker we're going to select and tell the mask, okay, effect only these
colors within the rectangle. So in this case, because the color selector
or the cow here, the skin of the cow, then this guy is not affected and the kras is not affected. It can shift. And then click. To create even multiple colors to be affected by the mask. There you go. So now that I selected
the blue of the sky, that mask is affecting
both the skin of the cow and this guy as well. Now, one of the main use of these graduated filter
is to kind of draw the attention to
the subject from any corner that is not
important in the picture. For example, right now, because the kras is kind
of in the foreground, I want to darken this area because I want the cat
to be the subject. And therefore, if
this part is darker, so we create a filter like so, and then we decrease
the exposure. The cow, as you can see, pops up much more than
without a filter. At the same time, it
can do the same thing on the front corner if you wish, or you can just
leave it like here. Despite I really like
the graduated filter. My absolute favorite
is the radial filter, which is exactly the same thing, but this is radial instead
of being a line basically. So you can draw our
fraud year folder. So you can draw a radial filter
by clicking and dragging. There you go. And then as before, this will be affected
by the preset that we put before and can be changed
dynamically afterwards. There you go. The concepts are
exactly the same as the graduated filter with the
exception that is radial, you can move and increase, rotate like so for example, if like this and then
you drag or depart, and then you rotate it. Even here you can click oh, and then this selected
part will be shown in red. Or you can deselect
and select here, then you can create a
new one or you can come. So for example, some
part of the filter, if I go in and brush here, I'm Ben, I go down. Click Erase can maybe
increase the size. There you go. Maybe decrease the
size if I want, if I don't want to
affect the cow, I'm just going to paint
on top of the cow. There you go. So all the
area that is affected is basically all of these
Fred part except a cow. If I want to be more precise, I can even zoom in and the
late from lags from her chest. There you go. This is it. And you can make an even
much smaller and done. This one was that
thing, tau filter just click on Effects and
this we're presenting tau filter by the exception of what you have
cancelled before. And in this case, if you move the filter, only the area that you consult before will not be affected. So if I painted with
the brush over the cow, this will have remained
while if I move the filter is not affecting
the filter itself. But if I create a new filter, this will affect
even the part that I cancelled before
into brush earlier. Why do I say that digital filter is my most favorite tools? Because in every picture
I basically use even 15, 20, or 30 ridge of filters
every single time. Because in some part of
the image you can just increase the partners in
some part of the image. You can decrease the brightness. And some part of the
image you want to decrease the saturation in
other parts of the image. Maybe you want to increase the clarity or an auto
part of the image. You'll want to change the
color a little bit of the grass just to know
I'm saying run them. But just to say that
every radial filter, it can have its own properties. So it's not only about lighting, is not only about colors, but it could be
about sharpeners, texture, clarity,
certain kind of effect. For example, creating
sun rays are creating some reflections and all
these kind of things. Keeping in mind that
these last slider here, feather increases or decreases. Of course, the feather
off the filter. Sometimes you need to
use the federal a 100, sometimes you need it to be 50, and sometimes you
need to use it to 0 depending on the effect
that you want to create. One of the perks are fusing Virgil filters is that
whenever you select a filter, you create a new one. You can invert the filter. And this will determine whether the internal part of the
external part will be affected. There you go. So for example, if
we want to create a radial filter that
creates a VGG net effect, I put it in the middle, decrease the
exposure, and invert. So basically old these part is, you can see all these
part is affected, but the center is
not really affected. If I want to decrease
the feder and create a very strong
vignetting that you go. So remember that you can
use the eraser at anytime. So you go, you need to select a filter Going brush and erase. If you want to
select these part, then you can just
deleted that you go. And then basically this
circle will be just on top. Now, if I want to increase
the flow, I cancel. I can make it easier, taking less time and you go many times and use your filters
to do the exact same thing. For example, I
create one filter on the car here, like so. To increase a tiny bit
the exposure, okay? And then increase the sharpness. And then I pick another
filter on top of the same one and then decrease
the exposure in vertigo. And then decrease the texture and clarity and the sharpness. So the result when we increased exposure of
the image is like so. And there is huge difference. As you can see, the houses, there are even
more blurred while the car is even more in-focus because I
increase a tiny bit, sharpen, it's right here. And these other examples, I want to show you how to use the exact same concept
but on a portrait. So and this face, we can create a radial filter
that is affecting the face only to increase the
sharpness and maybe the exposure a tiny bit. There you go. And then because the face, we can decreased
at texture a tiny bit so the skin
will look smoother. And then we can
create a new filter. Draw on the same spot, and then decrease the exposure. Or we need to invert the filter. So I would draw the
attention here. And then if the one we can
decrease the sharpness and decrease the clarity as well off everything
that is around. So in this case, before and after
what happens here, the face is much more in
focus than before because we decreased it texture and
the exposure around. So here we can enhance
the depth of the image and focus the attention to
the face of the subject. The possibilities using
these tools are limitless. And in the virus example, at the end of this lesson, I will show you how you
can use these filters in a very practical way
in various situations. As always with the other panels where you have a
filter selected, you can go below and click on these two
rectangles to the, activate all the radial filters that you have on the picture. So everything else
will stay the same. But this will toggle and activate or deactivate
the original folders. Last, local adjustments
that we have is a brush, which is basically the
exactly same thing than the other two. But the difference is that
you are going to paint a, you're going to
decide autonomously which part of the photo
you want to effect. So in this case, let me affect just everything that
is around his face. There you go. Now, why is increasing
the exposure is because here I said at the
beginning, higher exposure. And if you want, you
can just decrease dynamically everything
that you're painting. So you see what your
painting and any, if you want to see
what you're painting, you can also click O to show the red area that
is being affected. Even here, we have that
possibilities too. Customize our brushes. So we have two type of brushes, a and B, which are two custom brushes that you
can put whatever you want. And then of course
we have the eraser. So whenever you paint something that you want to eliminate, you can go to erase and
then delayed these part, always adjusting the
flow feather and size. And even here, for
example, enough, too dark, but I can
darken a little bit. Base area, you go, and then you can
decrease the sharpness. Declares that
texture and clarity. Yeah, nice. So you can joint attention
more towards the subject. Another super cool
feature that we add when using the brushes
is that ultimacy. Whenever you start, you
sang, okay, please. When I start select
everything that has the same color of the
thing that I selected. So right now if I do this, let's click 0 so we see what
we're painting and cleaves the flow and the federal
as well, the size. Okay. So when we do
this, as you can see, what he's selecting,
his only this guy, he's not selecting the clouds. And this is because the clouds are white while the sky is blue. And when I started, I
started from the blue. This is really, really cool and is super useful
when we need to select buildings
on what we need to select hard patterns and more. Okay, let me do another
example just to show you this. So we're going
brush, select New, and then we go to Auto Mask, and then we start
here and the sky. Let's zoom in in the picture. So you can see that
the part affected and click OK to show
the parties affected. There you go. He's not going even if
my brushes going on the building on the
forensics Duomo 10, the auto mask is doing a
pretty good job in selecting only the sky and not
the building itself. So if you go into it, you can see that the building
is not being affected even if my brush is on
top of the building. This is because auto mask, even using the brush right here, is exactly the same as
using the auto filter. So you can use a hue slider if you want to change the
color of your adjustment. Okay, here is a little
bit too bright. So look what happens. Yeah. You can see this area that you selected that changes color, increase, decrease
situation, everything. And you can use also
the range mask. So if you want to give
it another help and select only the colors that
you want to be affecting. So here you go. This is an R there, help, and you can use this to do
whatever you want basically. Ok, So now Let's go and
try to understanding a practical way how we can use these filters in real photos. The first photo that
I want to show you, if they split Burkean photo and we can use the Spot Removal. Remove this, which was the
light did they use before? You go? Very nicely done. Done, gone. Done. Perfect. So now the
butt back when he's perfect, you're going to crop
the image like so. There you go. So respecting the
rule of thirds, My eyes are on the
top line of the grid. Very nice. Let me show you
what these I trick every time that I
have a portraits, I always do this. I pick a radial filter, true on top of the eye. Maybe you want to
zoom in so you can check exactly where you're
putting on top of the eye. There you go. You want to increase a tiny bit the feather
and these case? Yes. And what I do is I increase
the exposure a tiny bit, I increase the
clarity a tiny bit, and I increase the
sharpness a tiny bit. Then you go into Filter. You right-click on your mouse, duplicate, and then you're
moving to the other side. They go in here and here we can increase, even more, nice. And then in this case, what you can do is you
increase the brightness of the face and decrease
the picture just tiny bit like so and
decrease the texture. Yeah. So when we decrease the texture, the skin will look smoother. There you go. And if you want to decrease
even more the skin, I just want to select
these par with collate, double-click on effect to fry, set all the values
that we assigned. And then we decrease
the texture like so. And then because I don't want my ice and I don't want
my lips to be affected. I can go in and range
mask, color, color, picker, click and drag
just on the skin. So in this case, because
my lips are not the same as kinda my eyes not the
same color as the skin, then they won't be affected. But you go before and after, look so ready, so much better. Now we can also
increase a tiny bit, maybe that overall, we can
increase the contrast. And then you go, this
is a finished picture. I'm not trick that we can
do is whitening the teeth. So what do you want to do is
you zoom in in the teeth, you take original
filter or even a brush. You can use both. You paint on the teeth. There you go. Okay. Now, these exposures
way too much. So you just increase
it a tiny bit and then you decrease the saturation so it's not there anymore. Eventually you can even touch
the temperature if needed, I think is still
too much exposure. You go and then you
go in and Range Mask, pick color, color picker. And then you basically
drag on teeth. Nice, as you've seen, it's not affecting any more of these part and the lips around. There you go. Before and after. Much better eye on
another trick that you can use these
creating light rate. So you need to use
a radial filter. Then you drew something
like so to simulate and then you want to increase the fetter slightly
more. There you go. Yeah. And eventually, if you
want to increase them, you can duplicate to create
that kind of a fact. Okay. It was good. Eventually, if you want, you can even increase the
temperature and put it orange. So it is a reflection that
he's coming from there, right? And it looks pretty good. We can also create some effects. So what you do is you
take your radial filter and then you'd show
Beck Sandra here, increase the exposure and
then make the yellow. There you go, super easy
and it looks great. Eventually you can even change
the color of your hair. So you take a brush Auto Mask, and then we paint on
top of the heirs. Like so. There you go. Let's zoom in. Just to give you an example. And then if you want to do
this, thanks, of course, you need to be as
precise as possible. And then because these
areas are selected, then you can move this slider and you can change
the color of the pictures. Now, I did it very fast. You can be much more careful
selecting old the heirs. You need to be
patient, of course. But you've got the concept. Using the same concept, you can change the color of anything that you
want into picture. So even here, if you want
to select all this chi, you select, you do
your own selection, you, your patient doing
these things and then you change dragging to you
from one side to the other. So whether you have a jacket, whether you have anything
in your hands and you want to change the CTO of easy. One more thing that you can do using the local
adjustments are also darkening the background and eventually whitening
the background. So we use original
filter in this case. And then we do a big one. We decrease the
exposure quite a lot. And then we go on range mask and Intel luminance
and then would basically decrease
the highlights as the feet are more like
highlights are making us. If they still work as much, then you can go and do the same thing using
Bridge of filters or even better brushes using
maybe auto mask if you want. Do that. Nice, nice, nice. There you go. There you go, and then decrease
the exposure a lot. Boom. Looks like super black. Now, how cool is this right? One more thing that you can
do eventually is to create a contrast between yellow and blue using kind of sun effect. So you take a
radial filter, joe, a big effect here, and that creates
the exposure may be increased just a tiny bit, then make yellow like the
sun is coming this way. That at the same time you
can create a new one. And then this way, where is the shadow are ready? You can decrease the exposure
and then make it blue. So as you can see,
you understand that the sun is
coming this way and then eventually you
can even create a sun and then some, some rays. And then he came decrees
the exposure here, double-tap on effect to
resident, decrease the exposure. And there you go.
These are already looking better and
then you just going to tweak the colors and make it even more pleasing
for your eyes. Another way that you can
use verge of filters are to smoothen the water. So you're going radial
filter, you draw it, you try to filter
here on the water. You resit old fact, then you decrease
the clarity all the way and decrease the
texture also the way, maybe also the sharpness. So here this MOOC, that water is much
smoother than before. And then your eyes
out to my couldn't recognize this as this subject. And he helps a lot doing this. One more thing that you can do with the Radial filters
is that you can basically turn on some lights within building and
enhance some beetles, for example, right now in
the church we can basically turn on like there
was a light within. There you go. We take Windows, reduce, Brita filters, duplicate, Bu. And as you can see, these gives so much more depth
to the picture, highly suggest through this. And eventually you can take another one to put
on the church, you go bridge that old effect, then increase the exposure? Yes. And then we enqueued
increase the clarity on church to make
it more punchy. How cool is this right? Huge difference. So eventually, you can even
create and use radial filters or brush filters for brushes to create more
contrast in a picture. So for example here, because
there's this guy on top, we can enhance the
code of this guy, increasing the blue
tones right there. And then we duplicate
this below. But here we just
need to put more yellow and orange. There you go. And eventually it can
decrease these part. So there is more
contrast. Very nice. And if you want,
you can also create a dreamy effect by simply
dragging down at texture. There you go, before and after. Much better. And I haven't done anything basically on colors
and light adjustments. So we can increase
the looking at this picture even
further very easily. We can use a graduated
filter through the caries exposure
in this area. So the attention is to the skateboarder and
not anymore on this part. Even do more. Like so. There you go. You always want to darken the area that is
before you've subject. So this way, your eyes will go directly
to the subject and won't wait to see the
first part here in the foreground that said for the local adjustments for now, we're going to have a
look at more example later when we put
everything together. I'll see you in the next video. Thanks for watching.
10. Local Adjustments - Update 2021/2022: This video, I
actually want to show you the updated
Lightroom dead in 20212022 regarding the
local adjustments. So everything that we said in the previous video
is still valid, but D change the way
how you do things, and they change also the panel. You can see on the
right of the screen right here that there's
no options anymore here, but now everything is
under the masking menu. When we could the masking menu, you have the possibility
to add new masks. In this case, they've added select subject and select Sky, which are two amazing
tools that are gonna be super useful when
you're editing photos, because before you had to use the automatic option and
manually go on the subject. Whereas now what happens is that when you click Select Subject, then you just need to
wait a few seconds that lateral on Thursdays
job and there you go. It has already selected
this subject only tone. And trust me, it works
amazingly every single time, so it's super, super cool. Now, the difference
is that right now you have another extra menu. Once you create a
mask and you're selecting the masking option. And then from here
you'll be able to see all the masks
that you create it. You can create new ones, and you can also
add a new mosque or subtract a new mask
from the selection. There you have active right now, because this one is red
as we know when we click, oh, this one disappear, but that as default, you have to activate it
so that you see exactly what's being
selected right here. And as we try to move the
Exposure up and down, then only the part that we
selected is actually moving. In this case, we can reduce
the clarity on the subject. We can maybe increase
the sharpness, increase the
contrast a tiny bit. Maybe texture down there we go, whatever adjustment
we want to make. Now the outer part, a super cool these
debt eventually if this didn't do
a good job enough, or if you want to do some kind of adjustments
to the same mask, instead of creating a new mask, you can simply add another mask to this
one that is active. So we click this one, this plus button right here. And then you'll be able
to select the way how you want to add a new mask
to the active one. So let's say we want to use the brush or you can use
a linear gradient there, radial gradient, the color
range, luminance range, which work exactly as
we've seen before. Or you can also
intersect this with maybe another sky selection. But let's use the
brush right now. As you can see here,
this one correspond to the select subject
that we did before. And then now that we
created a new brush, then we have a new mask here. And the default option is that you're adding actually a mask. Now let's create click on, oh, we see exactly what
we're doing right now. You'll be able to add whatever selection you
want on the previous mask. And in this case,
what happens is that everything
that we've done on the subject before these
adjustments will be also applied to whatever painted
on the red right now. So as you can see here, there is a slight kind of line that you can t because
we increase the exposure, but if we decrease a lot, you can see it's doing the exact same thing
that he's doing under subject at the same time. If you hold option or probably is going
to be Alt on Windows, then you'll be able
to delete the part of the selection and
let's click over again so we see what's going on. We can obviously increase or decrease the dimension
of depression. Then we just hold Option
or Alt. And there you go. We're just deleting this part from the selection
that we just made. So in this case,
you literally have endless possibilities
to customize whatever mask you have. Or if you are on a
Mac, but for example, you have a trap and
I think this should work also on Windows. We chew fingers, you can
jog down to decrease the brush or you can drag up to increase the
dimension of the brush. There you go, and then
you can keep going. Now, what happens
is that you can do this unlimited times. In. This means
that you can click plus and minus and
add as many mask as you want to any
previous mastery if you have selected or you
can add another mask. And when you click on plants, you're going to see
older option that we've seen in the previous menu
that was here before. So in this case we can
add a linear gradient. Maybe from here we want
to darken this part. Let's say we're
going to do this. And then as you can see, we have another little box here where we see the bus
that we've just created. Same concept as before. In each mask that you create, you can click on it and then
you'll be able to click on Plus if you want to add a
mask, wirklich a minus. If you want to subtract a mask, or you can click a plus. So let's take, for
example, a brush here. Then you click O to
see what's going on. Maybe we add this part and
then you can hold Option and then delay part of
what you just made. Or let's do it again. We're going to click minus. In this case, we're going
to use brush again, and then we're going to remove this part from our adjustments. So as you can see, we transform our linear gradient into something
that is different, something that is completely customized based on our needs. We're gonna delay. Let's say this must
because obviously I don't like it and even this
one and then vary. Now the menu is
back on this part and I went to see that you
can do the exact same thing. With the color range or
the luminance range, which is what we've seen before, but in a different
menu because now, now there's tender alone
part of the masking option. And for example, if we
click on Color Range, then we can go directly
on the photo and select, let's say this sweater. So we detract, we hold and drag. There you go. Now
Lightroom has manually selected everything
that has that color. And we can change
actually the range of that color by simply moving
this slider right or left. So let's say I want
to go to the left. That means that I want to remove everything else that is
not exactly this color. Now in this case, we
can see that there is a little bit of red
also in the parliament. Let's have a look at what
happens when we actually increase the exposure here, then yes, it's gonna happen
also on the pavement. Now what happens is that
we can try to remove the Parliament
from our selection so that we are going
to play around, just read a sweater. So in this case, same as before. We're going to click on the
mask that we've created, and then we're gonna
click on minus. This means subtract mask. And then we're going to use, let's say the brush. Now we click oh, so we see
exactly what we're doing. Then you just going to
drag on the pavement to remove everything
that we don't want. There you go. You can
take your time doing this so that you can be perfect in the photo that you're editing
or in your next concept. Then once you're done, we can now play final round
just with the sweater, everything that is moving, it's just a sweater so we can
make it whatever you want. These obviously is just an
example that shows you that you can select different
type of luminance or colors. Because the concept
is that obviously you can create the
same exact mask, same as we've seen before, simply with this
luminance range. In this case, you
want to click in luminance and then
you're going to select, for example, this
part off the scarf. And then Lightroom is going
to select everything that has the same luminance as that
part that we've selected. And obviously we can
change that part of the luminance with the
slider. Super comfortable. If you do not want to
select the shadows, then you need to take
the left part that corresponds to shadow
torch. They're right. There you go. Or if you do not want to select, let's say the highlights
and you want to select only the midtones
and you want to take this slider right here
and move it towards the left. Now in this case, maybe we're going to
increase this part, but then we're going to
decrease these highlights. Right now we're just selecting
this portion right here, that is the midtones. If you actually click
on Show Luminance map, you'll be able to see a bit
more on what's the highlight, watch the mid tones and
what are the shadows. And even here you can just be able to select
whatever you need. Now keep in mind that this is the part of youth
selected firmly, whereas everything
else is kind of like the gradient from
the selection part and not the selection part. So let's say in this part is
selected but not selected. There is a sort of
opacity within the mask, whereas what's
inside this box is firmly select is a 100%
of passage of the mask. There you go. So what this is really, there was a lot of possibility because of this Select Subject, especially is game-changer
within Lightroom, it was already present in
Photoshop, but in Lightroom. And this new update really
makes a huge difference. Now let's have a look
at another example. For example, in
this photo because the other addition is
the select sky option. So in this case, whenever
you click on Select Sky, that lateral, we'll take a few moments and we'll
select this guy only. This is amazing because
you'd be able to change manually
whatever you want. Simply selecting this guy and you don't have to do
it manually anymore. So it's really, really cool. The same concept
that we said before. They also go for this kind
of select sky option, which means that we can
subtract or we can add any other additional mask to the mass that we
have already active. So if we want to
add, for example, another mass, then we
can take the brush. And from here we click
also we see the selection. We can add any part that
we want from the image. Or if you hold option, you'll be able to
go into minus and subtract from the mask
that we've just created. There you go. Or you can click again, subtract from mask,
select brush again. And here you'll
be able to remove from the sky whatever you want. And then if you're doing
any kind of changes that only the parts that
we've selected will be effective. There you go. Same thing again,
just to show you another example is that if we do with the luminance range, then you'd be able to
click on it and then select the part that you
want to, you want to effect. Let's say everything that
has face box luminance. So if we click on
it and Lightroom has already made the selection. But let's say I want to select only the part of the image that has this luminance without having this guy
selected as well. Because in this case, with this kind of box that we have right here now obviously
we can customize it, but in this case, even this
guy selected, what do we do? Well, we go into
mask, we click on it, then we have the plus
and the minus button, and then we can
click on the minus. So we're gonna subtract from mask and then we're
going to select sky. What happened to that
Lightroom is going to automatically detect this guy. And then because we clicked
on subtract on the minus, then this is not part of
the selection anymore. And from here we can see
all the mask on top or on the bottom of
the mask that we used to make the
final selection. So in this case we
use the first one. It was simply the luminance
range that we've selected. And then here we
can see the minus. That means we have
to subtract it, whatever is this one
which is the sky, and this is the result
that we got as a mask. When you are hovering
one of these buttons, you can see everything
that you've done. And this is really, really amazing whenever you
need to edit your photos. So I highly suggest
if you do not have this update, the update Lateran, and you try to use this one because it's just going to make a huge difference
in your workflow because you don't have to
do manual stuff anymore, but you can help yourself
with these new types of masks for this new update I hope you enjoyed and I will
see you in the next video.
11. Details: Now we're going through
the last part of editing our pictures in the top details. So we just need to scroll down until we find it tough details. We can choose
whether to increase the sharpening of the
entire image or not. My suggestion is to never increase the sharpening
to the whole pick. Instead, use local
adjustments to enhance only part of the image as we've seen in the
previous section. So here in this box you can
see basically your image. So then, so you can see the
difference between sharpening before and after that you go and then there is
the noise reduction, a very heavy tool. So if you have as low computer, Be careful and use
this at the very end, just right before exporting K for using the nervous action. You basically 12, let me
show you how it works. You can pick whether to affect the illuminance
of or the colors. And as you can see, there
is an effect and this, and then you want to make sure that the photo won't look
too bad when you using it. So it'd be really careful
when you're using this tool. And you can eventually
even affected colors based on your photo. Okay, now we move to that fact
tab where you can increase that vignetting
and its parameters are really loved the Wagner Act, it helps joined the attention towards the center of the image. But be careful, as
usually beginners tend to overuse this function, especially when you're
shooting outdoor. If you don't manage it well, you might create pictures
that will look like fake. For example, let's take
a look at this picture. I, we understand that the sun
is coming from the right, but then if we overuse
that big neck defect, this will look pretty bad. And even though we can
increase or decrease that midpoint phase
simply doesn't have good. Instead, we could use
radial filters or graduated filters to create
part of the NET neck. So like one here, a tiny bit. There you go. So there's another
option that you can use. Indeed, if you have
these kind of photos where the subject is
really in the middle, big net will look good if used
properly. So there you go. Here we'll draw the attention To talk and oaks are ready
so much better, right? Because your eyes go
directly to the dock. When we use big netting, we can move towards their right to make it white or towards
the left to make it black. And then we can use the
midpoint to increase or decrease the netting towards the center and their roundness. So if we want to square and show you that you've
got these as clear because they're found
that a is minus a 100, or we can make it basically a circle by moving this
towards plus 100, then you can create
his defender. So make it extremely sharp, like so, or increase
the feather. So basically you don't see it. And then we have the
last one which is grain, which creates kind
of vintage effect. And even here you can
increase or decrease the size of the crane
and the roughness. So here it's extremely rough, extremely big, or
you can decrease. And then you go here,
you can see it better. Can increase the
size of the crane. Crazy amount on crazy amount, you use the grain when
you want to create a kind of vintage effect, okay, this is the last part
of the editing process, kind of managing these details. In the next video, we're
going to have a look at the main shortcuts that will speed up your process
in light room. Thanks for watching.
12. Shortcuts: This video, I want to summarize all the main shortcuts that you can use to speed up your
workflow in sight Lightroom. I lived down in the description or in
the resource section, a link to the Adobe
website where you can download a PDF with
all the main shortcuts. Now, some of them you've
seen them before, but I just want to
summarize them. So you can just look at
this video once upon a time when you want to implement
more shortcuts with a time, keep in mind that whenever
I'm going to mention common, because I'm on a Mac,
if you have a Windows, you just need to translate
it into control. The first one foremost the most important and zooming
in and zooming out. And you need to
use common placer, common Minus to zoom
in and zoom out. Or if you have a
truck that you can pinch in and pinch
out on the track. But so here, lightroom, you just need to go in a
picture and club common Plus to zoom in and comment
minus to zoom out. If you have a truck but
you do the same thing, pinch in and pin
Chao one to five. We'll set this tars, that grading of
aggregate picture. And you can do the same thing
while you are in library. You can click 1234 or five, or even 0 or even three to make the
reading that you want. When you are in to
develop or library mode, you can click P to
flag the picture. Now you see the
little flag here. Or if you go into library, you can also see the
flag right there. X to set as rejected. And the flag will turn into
Europe injected photo. And you can see it, of course, even in the develop mode, right there is a black flag. Now classic, whenever you do any kind of editing
in every software, you can just click on Command Z to go to
the previous action. If you have made any
adjustments to the picture, let's say like this
and then vibrance, you can click common C to copy all the settings
and you can select or deselect any of those. Then you can copy. Then you go in the next
picture, of course, common V, and it will
copy all the settings. Now let's say you
have a series of photos and then you edit one. And then you can copy
in the next photo or the previous adjustments that you've made on a picture, you just tap the
button and this will be passed settings
from previews. The ego, any copied directly from the previous photo
that you've selected. For example, in this photo, I make some adjustments, okay, whatever it is. And then I want to
jump into this one. I just need to click
paste from previous. And then we'll take
directly the settings from this picture that
when they speak without clicking,
Copy and Paste. Now the keyboard six onwards
are dedicated to the colors. Six ears read 70s, yellow, it is green, so on. Whenever you click queue, it accessed directly
this part removal, where you can then go and
select whatever you want to modify that increase or decrease the size and the federal the
opacity of the Spot Removal, even here, if you have a truck, but instead of clicking
the size with the slider, you can just drag up or down two fingers to make
it smaller or bigger. Next one is M, and this axis, the graduated filter that
after you've clicked M, you can just go and drag
your mouse or track. But to create a graduated
filter for click, Are these the crop tool? And then if you click, oh, we can modify to credit and choose the one
that we're looking for. Okay, let's leave the
rule of thirds right now. And then you can
just drag the mouse and draw that part
that you want to cut. Like. So to click Shift and M, this will access
the radial filter. Then you can just try it. And you go. K is the brush, same thing, not a
local adjustment. Then you'll have it. Backslash is to see
the before and after. Okay, let me do some
adjustments first. There you go, just
to have a look, you see that before
backslash and after. And even here you see when
it was before is selected. If you click Tab, you see the image only without the adjustments on the right
and without the left tabs, tab to go back again. If you want to reset a slider, for example, all
of these affect, you just double-click on effect right there and then
you've read its them all. If you want to reset all these adjustments
and even the one below, which is the function that
does face button right here, you just need to click
common Shift and r, and everything will be, raise it to normal. Okay, these are the main
shortcuts that I use all the time and that will really
speed up your workflow. So try to learn as many
as possible what a time, although it's very difficult to remember that mole
tried to watch back this video and maybe
take notes and implement as many as
you can with the time. Okay, and I'll see you
in the next video where we're going to talk
about presets.
13. Presets: Okay, in this video, I'm going to talk about presets. Presets are a set of
colors and settings. Then you can save and you can download maybe from the
Internet, from other creators. And then you can apply
to your own pictures. Okay, So for example, let's do a run them, edit, Okay, lesly, I'm doing random
just for the sake of understanding that you go
curve here, yeah, whatever. Then we increase their
netting, make it white. So let's say you want to save for the future of these edit. On the left-hand side, you can see that tab presets
and that you just need to go and create presets and then
you give it a name, preset 1. Try. And then you can
select or deselect all the adjustments that you
make if you want or not. Include that in the
preset and then you can check them all or check
none to make it faster. Let's say this. Here
you have the group. So for example, if you want
to create a new group and call it portrait presets, then you can do so. I'm just going to leave
here in the US as presets. Now you click Create. And then here in the tap presets you can
see User Presets. And then if I growing
scroll down, There you go. There is a preset try. So I can reset this picture
and then apply these presets, which is exactly the same. And then if I go to another
picture that say this one, I can go here into left
and click Preset one, try and will apply all the settings that we
set in the previous photo. As you can see here,
I created already around 30 of my own presets that I can use to start adding the picture are ready
with some basic settings. These can be useful
when you need to match your Instagram
feed or create a client work at will have the same colors and
stuff like this. However, I really enjoyed that process editing
each single picture. So usually what I do when
I shoot a new project, I start editing one
single picture and then do the copy from previous
as I showed you before, which is copy and
paste the settings. Keep in mind that every photo is different based on camera. They're using the lab
so you're using and the weather condition that you are, the lighting condition. So if in the previous photo the gray mood was looking great, maybe in this photo won't
look as good as before. In fact, there's
not really great. Now you can still
adjust the preset. So whenever you apply a preset, you can go and modify
whatever you want within the picture and
depreciates won't be saved. If you want to
update your presets, then you need to
create a new one after you've made
your adjustments. Now, when you purchase price, it's back on the web, or you can download
from a friend, or you can create your
own whatever you want. You can always click here
and then Import Presets. And then you can go in the download folder from the Creator you purchase
the presses with. And then it's very simple. You just need to click on the zip file that
they will provide. You. Click Import and
then you're good to go. You're going to see
them in a new folder. And this tab, as you can see, they're really useful to speed up your workflow
when you need to edit a certain type of images with the same colors,
with the same settings. However it, you need to be
careful and adjust them picture by picture every time because of the
different settings. I'll see you in the
next video where we're going to have a look at loads of examples to apply everything
that we've learned so far. Thanks for watching tau.
14. Practical Examples: We've learned a lot
of electron features, but how can you apply
all of these together? How it can modify a
picture from a to Z. And this video I will
show you loads of example on my editing process. And for me is probably the
most interesting videos as you really see how you
can apply all of these features in one picture. These examples were ranged
from food to architecture, to landscape, to people. So you can really have
a practical taste on how you can approach
your photos from a to Z. Okay, let's dig into it. Let's start from this photo. The first thing that I want
to do is to adjust the angle. I'm going to do
this. There you go. Just the cropping. So make sure that
these SEM there, like so I'm watching these two points that they are
the same that you go onto. Let's have a look at physis
in the center. Not yet. Okay. It looks okay. Now was not sharp
perfectly in fact, I'm not perfectly in the middle, but that's fine.
It's not a problem. The first thing that I
wanted to do is to decrease the exposure to bring
back the highlights. So and then we see
increasing the shadows. Actually, I want to keep it dramatic so we'll keep
the shadows down. But then I want to use
a radial filter tuning crazy little bit exposure on
myself and on the cathedral. See, yeah, this is good. Very nice then I want
to graduate filter to darken even more. Part. Double-click on the factor o and then decrease
as the sounds good. Now let's go into colors. Well, this was the
turn curve right here, probably shown from before. That's fine. Now it's going colors. We go into blue and we
modify it tiny bit. There you go. That's a
nice even going to yellow. More like a sunset pinky
vibes. That's good. And then one thing that I
want to do is to create original filter on the side and create kind of a
sudden reflection. So double-click to resit all increase the exposure like so and then temperature
towards the yellow. Yeah, like he was a
reflection to sun. And then what I do is I duplicate the same filter
on the other side. But then here I wanted
to change it and go towards the blue decrease, maybe the exposure, like so. And this was there before. After. So much better or radio, right? If I want, I can even decrease
the clarity that you go. Maybe do a nod or a radial
filter and this part? Yes. Raisa. And increase the
clarity just right there. An increase here,
thought feather. Okay, I like this picture
a lot before and after. Now let's have a
look at the people. First thing that I want to
do is to check the scheme. So I want to try to remove at least the biggest impulse here. So I'm going to spot
removal much smaller. Like so. Okay, Click, Nice, nice, nice, nice. Now you can keep going. Just, I don't want to
waste too much time. Just go on the outer part. Q. Yep. Perfect. Well done. Can remove this. Yeah. There you go. Then the next thing
that I want to do is to increase the sharpness
of the eyes. If you'd go increase a
little bit of an exposure, a little bit of
clarity and sharpness. Then copy and paste
this on the other side. Yep. And then do this with
the other person. So you can view
and decrease here. Make sure to don't
do it too much. What a wise, for example, if
a live it into white and I bump up the exposure too
much, that will fake. So the eyes will look like
a zombie and I decrease it. Okay, nice. The next thing that
I wanted to do is to decrease the texture
in their face. Because it fact and
decrease the texture, this will allow it to smoothen. This can a little bit. There's before,
there's the after, just a tiny bit. And then if I want to make
it even more precise, I can take this
one goal in range. Musk didn't pick the color
and choose their face color, so this won't affect
their eye or the lips. Next, now let's play around with the colors I want to increase
a little bit into contrast. Like so, it creates a
texture overall minus, and then maybe the
graduated filter to make these parts
slightly darker. So we're putting
focus their faces. Yeah, there you go. Nicely done. It's going to have a
look at the colors here that there is the purple. If I wanted to
change that purple, I can go here magenta
or purple directly. And then as you can see, you came there, actually
change the color. So like it blue because it seems to help pair highs to pop
up. And there you go. Base remains a finished
picture before and after. Now let's have a look
at this picture. And here as you can see, he's not really perfect
because here he's note in focus and this part doesn't look good and there are a
lot of imperfections. And this picture as you want
shot and like a second. So what I would like to do
here is go black and white. Yeah, it is much better
ready then it create a radial filter here. Yes, so nice. So I can remove that
Hailar right there. Just by increasing the closure. Like so. Yeah,
that's really nice. And then I want to increase
the sharpness in his face, but decrease the texture. And then increase the
sharpness. Very nice. Eventually if he has
any big pimples, we can remove them. I think he's okay. And eventually you can make slightly darker or even
increased exposure. Here where we created that. See which one is the best
knows better to increase it. Yeah, there you go. Okay. Then what we can do
here is let's try to create an order radial
filter much bigger. And then just select
the range mask, which are the dominance
that will affect only the very idea,
the very highlights. There you go. So let's try to do it on
the other side as well. So we can create that kind of cool white background effect. Yeah, that looks
good. Let's see. Nice. Eventually, because these areas affecting only these corner, we can take the brush
and paint over here. So we'll have the same effect than these feature filter
here in ritual filter, you need to select that filter. You can go in and brush and
then we paint over here. Yes, There you go. Much better. Is the before. There's the after. What a difference. Okay, Let's have a look at
this picture right now. As you can see, their eyes
and ears notched trait. Absolutely keep each
trait every single time. So we're going angle here. And we tried to modify either by eye or by using the ruler. So yeah, that was perfect. Now we tried to select the rule of thirds
in a perfect way. So 1 third is the sky, 1 third is the center, and 1 third is that grass. There you go. Now we decrease the
temperature like so, increase the exposure, contrast tiny bit
decrease the highlights. So we're taking back some
burn highlights over here. Maybe increase at tiny
bit the shadow to create that clarity and
texture that you go. And maybe I want to create
an S curve right here. So we do three points
and did a bit up the highlights and little
bit down the shadows. So increase that contrast. Very nice. Now we're going to be
huge. The first thing that I want to adjust our blues. So it's very nice. And then we'd go into yellows, which is probably
affecting also to green because the grass is
slightly yellow as well. If you go and then the greens, we bring them towards
the yellows, I like now, I would like to
touch the oranges, but if I touched the oranges, this will affect also my face, as you can see, look
in my face over there. So we can't really touch. This, can increase a little
bit of saturation over here. Okay, and then we click queue
and then eventually you can move away old people. Now, I'm not gonna do it. Yeah. There was there already. Now, you can be as precise as you want and take as
much time as you want. But just because of the
limited amount of time, I'm not going to do them all. Yes. There you go. Okay. And then you can go
ahead and remove basically every
single person here. Now using Photoshop,
this thing would be much easier that lie room
and maybe using that room, these area, for example, will be very
difficult to remove. So using photoshop
will be better and even removing this
takes a lot of time. So I'm just going to edit
the colors right here. We apply a graduated filter, reset to filter and then
track down the exposure. Yes, like so. And then we take a brush
and we paint over me. Like so, very nice. Then we reset the fact and increase the
exposure a tiny bit, decreasing the
highlights or otherwise my t-shirt with burn
because it's white. Okay, so let's simulate a
sun coming from the site. We'd drag. A big, big, big
original photo like so we increase that
feather maximum. Yet, then reset all
the parameters and then increase the exposure
and a temperature this side. So it seems like
a sunset and the Sun that he's coming
towards this way. Now, if you want, you can even create kind of a reflection
coming from this way. Then you reset and create these huge filter and then
you increase the exposure. Boom. Like so automating this area. Remember to in this case we want the feather to be at
maximum so you don't see the difference
between light and not afflicted part and
the affected part. Then you go before and
after if you want. We can also increase. We didn't not our
original filter kind of clarity here to make it
pop a little bit more, but this is not necessary
and he's totally up to you. So you can see this creates depth into picture because the main layer, main
subsidies here. But then we can also increase the clarity to create a
little bit from more focused, not too much, don't go
crazy up into clarity. These are super-important
before and after. In this case there's
not much you can do. So if you adjust the angle, then to photo will be cut out a little bit so you
can limit like so. And despite the composition
is not perfect. I just want to show
you how you can edit this picture to
make it look good. So I'm going to
increase the exposure. It like so. And then we'd go directly
into the colors. Let's see what happens
when we modify this. Okay, let's leave it at that. So then here we want to
adjust their threats, like it over there. And then let's see what
happens with the magenta. And a purple. Nice, and the oranges
here, there are no people. So we can touch the
oranges with no problem. Yeah, you see it a
different tribe. Looking so good now. Yes. This is the before and after. Now what we can do is
you can we decrease the highlights to bring back
a little bit of details? And eventually we can use a filter here to make
it slightly darker. If you want, we can
take a brush paint over this I to make it pop here, reset the effects and
then increase tiny bit. Oh, you're so decrease the texture and the clarity
to make it more training, but increase the contrast. There you go. These part, I'm not a
big fun with this part. So we decrease the exposure if we want to move the
focus of our eyes. And these already
looking pretty good, much better than before. Eventually you can even drag and not our original
filter on the ICC on this building and see how
you can move it. Yeah. Give him and just
enough temperature that is looking pretty good. Yeah. And the great I really
like it before and after. Huge difference right? Now let's have a look
at these example. Here we can drug
up the exposure a tiny bit and then we can
adjust or ready to colors. The yellows, bring them
towards the orange. So what I want to try here, he's created these teal
and orange effect. So the blue, we move
them towards the teal. There you go. Okay, Done. And then I want to create
an average of filter to increase the effect of this little lump by dragging up the exposure and dragging
down to texture. Nice, very good. And then maybe we can move it, temperature it a bit
so he's more orangey. And then I went to increase
also the fact of this window. So I don't want to do here is
to create a radial filter, maximum feather range mask, luminance, and affect
all of the highlights. There you go. Very nice. Is it before? There's the after. Next one? Let's see how we
can modify this burger. Here the colors are good. We can increase the contrast
and simulate kind of a brighter side on the right. There you go. Yes, nice. And maybe we can
put it towards the yellow and then we can create a new one on this side to
create contrast and more blue. Nice. Now, I want to darken this area as there was
a kind of a shadow. So we reset the effects, then we decrease the exposure. Like so is very nice. Now I wanted to create a
radial filter on the burger. The burgers is our subject. See right there. Okay, and then we can
increase the exposure a tiny bit and increase the
sharpness a tiny bit. And then I want to create
another radial filter, but this time we want to invert it so we can decrease
the exposure. Nice. Yeah, I like it. And then we take I don't want an increase again, the exposure. Yeah. Best looks good already
before and after. Huge difference. And then let's see
what we can do here. Maybe we can create an S curve. On the blue tone curve. This case, we are increasing
the blue into highlights and decreasing blue in the shadows. Maybe for a third. Here if we want to let the ketchup and the
tomatoes popup more, we can decrease the hue and maybe increase the saturation
a tiny bit and play around with the luminance
that will effect on the tomatoes and the
ketchup within the worker. Now, here is really up to you, but you can even touch the tint and see where you like it more. Think of original
as my favorite. And eventually if you wanted
to create like a graphic on the right than you can
pet and keep the burger. Just on the left-hand
picture of the crop in here, you can put, for example, the logo before and after. Let's see an example
with a couple. Here we can increase the
contrast and I want to go directly to the colors. Drag the hue towards the teal, drag down to saturation play. You're on Windows,
illuminance maybe down, even less saturation. Like so very nice. The sun is coming towards
the left so we can create the sun effect coming towards
the right from the left. There you go. Then we can play with it, turned curve and
drug up the blacks. So from here, drag it up. Here. Very nice. And I
wouldn't decrease the oranges saturation just because we feel
we're too orange. Nice. Decrease the highlights here. Tiny bit is decrease the
shadows that you go. We can decrease or increase the clarity based
on what we like. If we like it more punchy, we increase the clarity. If we like it more
intriguing effect, then we decrease the clarity. Be careful too,
don't overuse it. Then the five points we
can increase tiny bit. Now, graduated
filter on the bottom to darken that
area. There you go. This is looking pretty good
before and after, now bad. This next example I want
to show you how we can combine kind of a landscape
and family photo. So here we start
with a cropping. Now, if we want to post this
on Instagram, for example, we can choose four
by five and then we adopt the composition to it. So in this case, I'm going to
put the subject in between the crossing line of the rule of thirds and then
everything else was good. Okay, The first thing that
I wanted to do AES to darken face part because
it's not necessary. So we're going to
set all day effect. Then we darken it. There you go. Okay, maybe we increase
the exposure. Very nice. And then decrease the
highlights a little bit right there to create
the texture and clarity. There you go. Then we want to
increase kinda of a sun effect coming from us way. We increase the exposure
and the temperature. Yeah, Nice. And we play around
with it, temperature of the picture itself. And then eventually you
can create a manger, a not or a radial
filter on Sway to make it eventually darker
and more cold. So you create a contrast between
the cold and the orange. Now here I want to create
an S-Corp into turn. Very nice. And then we create
a radial filter on the subject's right there. Increase the federal maximum, and then increase the
exposure just a tiny bit. There you go. And as you can see, the
difference is already quite big from before and after. But then let's play
around with the color. So we can do blue. Didn't we edit a nice
saturation? There you go. So here the mountains, there are a lot of orange. But if we want to
touch the orange, we need to go and
use radial filters instead of the color
sliders or otherwise, even our skin will be affected. So in this case, if we want just the colors
of the mountains, bays on your liking. I like it more, kind of pinky. And then I dragged out the
saturation. And there you go. Now to create another sun ray. Eventually it can use a
brush, make it bigger, and then paint it towards
this side like so. They'd go, don't worry if
the exposure is crazy, is because the effect
preset is like this, but you don't have to do day
we didn't just increase sit. So you see the affected
area by clicking oh, and this is it. Now the auto mask was on. So basically because I started
from the mountains east taking on lead to mountains
and he's not taking, for example, this
part right here. Okay. This looks pretty good. I like it before and
after because there is a lot of texture here due to the
mountain and the rocks, you can shrug or vigil footer on the
family, on the subject. Inverted decrees that texture. There you go. And clicking O can see
that it's much better. I like it much more
before and after. If we have a look at
the radial filters, we can disable them and see the difference
that they create. Can see creates much more depth. The fact that we created
and highlight point here when the family and also some sun rays
coming this way. Next example, we have these car, as we've seen also before, we are pretty created
two radial filters. One that is decreasing
the texture around and one that is increasing
the sharpness in the car. Now let me show you how you
can turn on car lights. So you drag the brush
and then you paint in front of the car like so. And you do the same
thing on the other side. Like so. And human here, we
can maybe do this. Yeah, Very good. And then what do you
wanna do is you simply increase the exposure to
create that reflection. And then if you want to
turn them on properly, we going radial filter
very close to the car. And then we create two
different radial filters. One that is slightly bigger, like so, and increase
the feathering this one. And then you create a
new one by going here. And then exactly the
same position but closer to the light itself. Much brighter. There you go. And now we do the
same thing with the second light over here, and then even the second
one over here, like so. And then if you want, you
can do it on the other side. If you like, to increase more the brush of
the reflection, you can increase them,
you see, and then on, you can cancel, erase this part right here because under the car is not
really a good fit, so we can erase it. You go face part right here. Nice. Very nice. And even this
par, maybe tiny bit. Good, good, good,
good. There you go. It looks like for you can increase or
decrease the islets based on how you like. Okay? Right? And eventually
if you like it even more, you can create another one and another brush and
you can play around with it that you got
before and after. Not be just careful, these points that
they might look fake. So eventually you can
even remove these by dragging this removal
to the mouse. And this is the final effect. Before and After I mentioned, we can go and tweak
the colors a tiny bit. So let's see, we can also change the color of the
car if you wish, by changing the yellow. Or eventually what you
can do is you can drag a nod or radial filter
only on the car. That's free sit 4
third that you go. And then let's change the color. Like so, nice. And then the range mask, select the colors, color picker, and then select part
of the image filter, select even more because it's
not selected all you can press shift and do
another part of the car. There you go. Here. Nice. Nice. Nice. Okay. And then you can
literally change the color of the car.
Pretty cool, isn't it? And then eventually we
can bring the shadows towards the blue it like so. And the highlights
towards the orange night. Very good. Create a little sun effect
is coming this way. Not too much. Create exposure and
increase the yellow. Yeah. And this is it. I like it a lot. I'm actually you can even
put some big meeting. You go down, in effect, amount, drag it to the
left to make it darker. And then to point, to center it a little bit more. There you go. Pretty cool. Now let's try to edit this
photo and see what we can do. Can jog the temperature towards more warm colors and you
can drag the exposure down. It's making them
traumatic effect. That's going to lose. I like it much better already. Nice, very good. Graduated Filter. So we darken this area. I don't want it to distract the focus of the BMX bike rider. There you go. Very nice. And then
eventually you can create the sun is coming from here, q0. Then we take the range
must luminance range, just to highlight this nice. And then you can drag it
towards the yellow. Very nice. And let's see what happens. Yeah, very good. Okay. And then you can increase or decrease the exposure whether you want to see their rider
or juicy his silhouette. In this case, I just want
to see the silhouette. So I'm just going to
drag it right there. Then you can
decrease the texture tiny bit and maybe
increase the clarity. There's time. So we want
to make it very punchy. And then if we don't like
the black to be very black, then we can increase
the black point here. Nice. And then let's play around
and what the blue curve. Yeah. Yeah, very nice. Good. This before this is after
much, much better, right? Mentioned in this photo you
can even play around with the calibration and
I want to touch a little bit the blue primary. There you go. Saturation, tiny bit Dao. And this is the final result. It's about the effect
that you want to create is very subjective. Now we can also modify
this picture in a very similar way
that we did before. Go here. And then we click, click control C. We
pick whatever we want. Let's pick all of them. Check all copy. We're going to next
photo. Common VI. This will be adjusted and it looks pretty
great, isn't it? Also the Senate, it was great. Wow. And he been geared,
there's no sun, but if you want, you can
leave it right there. And this will create a
very, very nice effect. I really like this. Yeah. Looking great right already
without even touching and just copy and pasting
from another picture. So here I want to
adjust the horizon. So I'm here to crop tool
and fish looks great. Okay, So I went to already
touched the colors and use it bit towards the sway and then go into Create
Movie, it's the worst. The yellow looks already
so much better. Very nice. Okay, and then here
what I can do is I create different layers
by using radial filter. So here in the grass, I want to blurt it out even more and I can decrease
the sharpness and eventually decrease the clarity
and texture if I want to make it very, very
blurred, nice. And then in this part
of the mud tank, what I can do is to increase the clarity and this will
create even more depth, but don't go too
crazy as always, we declared to just a
tiny bit, very nice. And then here I can increase the exposure and the
contrast as well. Very nice. Now in the overall picture looks pretty dark so I can increase the shadows or the azure
itself is very nice. Create a sun effect coming
from this way. There you go. Okay, increase. The exposure is like so
and the temperature is, and then we create a knot original filter that
acts as a summary. Let's say that the
effect, yes, very nice. Yellow, Good job. Now because the
spiritual filter is affecting even here the months and maybe here's just too much. What I do is I zoom in and
the picture that you go. And then I take the brush, click on erase, make it bigger. Decrease the flow. And then remove the day you go. And then keep painting, keep
pace and keep painting. Nice, nice, nice. Maybe it can increase the
flow a tiny bit more. And then BU is looks great. Yeah, before and
after, not bad, right? Eventually you can also
decrease the exposure and this area because it's
not affected by the sun, that we'll click on effect, then decrease the
exposure a tiny bit. There you go. Nice. And then if you want, you can even increase the exposure and the
clarity in this area. So we take the brush
we paint over. Like so very nice. We set d effect and
increase the clarity. Very nice. There you go. Looking great. Before and after. Let's have a look at a toy
just for product photography as a show you before we
can darken this area. And then here what I
would do is very simple. Just increase the clarity
to make the toy pop up even more and then increase the vibrance to make
the red popping up. And then if you want,
you can even change the color of the spread. By going here, we
change the hue, you go and then you can make
the color that you want. Now here eventually what
you can do is you can also increase the
exposure here in size. It really seems to be
alive in that way. So let's try to do
this and see what happens with the auto mask
is doing a great job. And then we can increase
the exposure and decrease the texture clarity and see what happens in nice popping
up even more eventually, you can also increase the
exposure right there. Like he was a halo effect. Nice. Yeah, seems more alive like it. Now I want to show
you this photo. First of all, I would like
to increase the exposure. One of the things that
I see it readies that we can make this cap pop. So there you go. Then they increase the exposure, nice, decrease the highlights. So we're bringing
back some of those over here and
decreases the texture. Now because these
will be orange, we can increase like
so, even increase more. So you created these halo effect and then increase the fetter. Nicely done. And you can see already
there's a Jew difference. Now we can crop the picture to make it better composition. Yes, so this is in the center and then you can
decrease the highlights. A tiny yet like so. And this part is a
little bit too bright. This was an error that I did
while shooting this picture, but we can try to
fix it a tiny bit. What devise these will
be too much distracting. Now we can take
another radial filter, Troy on the lamp, on the body, and then increase
the clarity and sharpness. Yes, there you go. Now, if you don't like
the blue that is behind, you can go and color and because there is
only depth blue, then you can click blues and decrease the saturation
all the way. And honestly, I like
it more like this. This before, this is after
such a huge difference, right? Eventually here,
it will be great to add a little bit of
the meeting as well. There you go. There's pretty
good. Next example, I want to show you a
person with a car. And I can see that the
sun is coming this way. So first thing that
I want to do is here and maggots this sun
popping out like so. More orangey, very nice. Increase the feather
and decrease the texture to make
more dreamy effect. Yeah, very nice. And then maybe I want to create contrast
with these orange. Well, this would the car lights. So I can go and change the color of the bill
because these are blues. So maybe nice, Very good. So if I want to make the
car pop a little bit more, can reset the effect and add
some clarity to the image, some sharpness and
a little bit of pose you're right
there, is very nice. Then eventually it can decrease the exposure
in this part. So it doesn't distract
the viewer to much. Very nice. And then eventually I
can even try to paint here to increase it tiny bit. The exposure and the person. Very good. Nice. And this is looking
really pretty good before and after, before, after. Okay, These were a lot of
examples of how we can put in practice everything
that we've learned so far. Remember that if you have
any question or if you're curious on why I used that
tool instead of theatre, feel free to pop any question
in this section down below, and I'll make sure to answer
them as soon as possible. In the next video, I'll show you how to export your images. Thanks for watching.
15. Exporting & Outro: Whenever you're ready
to export your photos, the first thing that
you can do is to use the filters
to pick our leaf, for example, the one
we choose stars. And then you can keep
pressing Command or Control to select only
the photo that you want, or click Comment or Control
a to select them all. Now you're going File Export, and then here will pop up a menu where you can
choose different options. You can choose the
Export Location if you want to put
it in a subfolder, we'll create a new folder
within your location, for example, hearing desktop. And now we can call it
Light room export one. Okay? And then we can rename the files based on the
rules that you want. And you can also pick the
quality and the format. So usually I pick
JPEG quality maximum. And you can resize the image and picked a resolution in
case you want it to print, you can decide to increase
all the metadata. And here you can pick the watermark that we
have edited before. Eventually you can even edit
here in edit watermarks. And then these are the options
that we've seen before. We're ready. When you're ready, you
just click export. And then here you
see the bar loading. Once it's finished,
you'll be able to see the new folder
within the desktop. Let's see, there you go. Live room one with all
the photos within. So there's first 1, second, 1, third, 1, fourth, fifth, 1. And that's it. After you exported your photos, you're good to go,
and that's it. Now it's time to apply
everything that you've learned in your photos
for this class project, I'd like you to take
one of your photos and edited using the tools that
we've learned in this class. Not remember to not
over edit your photo, tiny changes and iterate
every time your adjustments. I'm really excited
to see your edit. So feel free to post them down below so I can
give you feedback. I know that the quantity of information that I give you in this class has been massive. But feel free to watch back
any lesson at anytime. Remember that when it
comes down to edit, it's all about practice and training your grave to
see what's the next step. Editing is about revision, trial and ever, you need to visualize what you're
going to do next. And visualization is
just about practice. And this is the
end of the class. I really hope you learned
something and now you're ready to be your photos
to the next level, Feel free to come in
with any question that you have in the
section down below, I'd be more than happy to
answer to all of those. If you enjoy the class, I'd really appreciate if
you could live review, check out my other
classes on Skillshare, subscribe to my newsletter
and getting touched on my social media as I post
daily content in there, or my useful resources are
linked in my teacher profile. I wish you a great day, evening, wherever you are in the world, and I'll see you
in the next one. Thanks for watching.
Simone Ferretti, Professional Photo/Videographer
