Introduction To Creative And Stylish Upcycling

1. Introduction To Creative And Stylish Upcycling: Hello ladies and gents. I hope you're all doing very well. My name is Emma. I'm a women's wear to sign a stylist, water consultant, and have professional expertise that spans over 2.5 decades. Thanks for stopping by for my second course here on Skillshare. I'm going to just share with you more of my skills, my insides, my observations. Both those things I've accrued over that span of my fashion lifetime. Hopefully this will help some of you out there to discover new things about yourself. What you'd like to explore moral, and hopefully your sisters to confidently delve into and creativity. Then allow those creative juices to have free throws. An outlet to express. Today I'd like to introduce you all to this really great course I've created as a result of being inspired by a story I saw quite recently on a new program. This news program was highlighting the really serious problem of throwaway fashion and how all these unwanted clothes were learned in developing countries, such as Ghana, under the guise of humanitarian charity and that kind of thing. Now, a lot of the officials there was saying basically this problem has to stop. And we're urging the Western government to stop using these countries as a dumping ground. Most of these clothes were made out of fabrics that weren't biodegradable. Therefore, the items were just sitting around and had no way of them breaking down naturally. That got me thinking, we all have a part to play when it comes to environmental issues. And of course, we're all guilty of buying things. Not really necessarily great quality. And are often just for holidays or just for single use. And they sit around in our cupboard, so in our recycle bag and then eventually gets shipped off to the recycle shop. I was looking in my pile and I came up with a couple of items that I'm yet to wear, inspired me to do a series of courses starting with this one. I'm going to show you how I transform this kimono address. The I bought last year, just in case I had the opportunity to travel into this new stylish top. I can wear all year round. I could draw it as it is in the warmer climates. Napoleonic Nakota ones. I really think this new style and tetany can be transferable to any item that has a front or back opening, any fabrics, sweatshirts, cardigan, almost anything. I'll help you to start to see the beauty of those unwanted governance in your wardrobe. And hopefully, this will start a new cycle where you can reinvent anything. No longer were anything in your wardrobe. Hopefully, you'll come along with me to the next section. You'll join the movement. And let's all start recycling upcycling items in our own personal style and in our own unique way. With that being said, I look forward to seeing you all in the following segments. 2. Welcome!!: Thanks for coming along and being a part of this movement towards self-expression. And possibly a real deep acknowledgement of your own vision, hopefully your own style language. If you are a maker, liked the idea of upcycling morphemes in your wardrobe. This process is going to be right up your street. You see the desire to wear clothes that are from your own hands. Israel, my people can put you at the forefront of the trends before they hit, such as this 2022 trend of fringes and tassels in particular, I loved the Attic drama to tassels add to your outfit. What do you reckon? Do query. I felt yeah, I want some task was in my wardrobe. I mean, not only as creating my unlocks brought me to a place where to this day I still only want to wear mainly my own designs. I've been able to see firsthand how achieving this has added to my self-belief, elevated myself esteem, and showed me when you use your creativity to achieve something that is your own making. There's no stopping you and there's no feeling like it. Are you ready to do this? Let's go. 3. What You Will Need For This Course: First things first, these are the items you'll need to achieve this particular look. A table or a flat surface if you have it. A cutting mat will make the process easier, but that's optional. Tracing wheel, a pair of fabric scissors and paper scissors. Pins, measuring tape, of course. Ruler or a set square, mark and chalk, preferably something close to the color of the fabric, but dark enough for you to see the markings. Pattern paper or card to make pockets and to make all the patterns you're going to need. And I'm picker to unpick decided the Garmin when we're in certain pockets. Actually you're going to need it. I'm picker for more than that. Trust me. You need a paper and pen to take notes. You're going to need 20 times 18 millimeter islets and their hand tool. They're not actually too difficult to find. I actually found mine on eBay. I went for a SICE quite large because I wanted something that I can fit thicker fabric. Also going to need machine Fred that matches the items you are using. And if you are anything like me, you're gonna need thread that matches the lining fabric too. That's also optional. You're going to need one meter of fabric, preferably not stretchy for reinforcing the top and to make the pockets. I'm going to use poly cotton because it's the ideal weight for this particular dress. Now when you purchase the fabric, tried to get something that is close to your skin tone. If the garment that you are customized and it's light in weight, in color, it might be a bit safer. For instance, if I use the white fabric or even the same color against my dark skin, you'll be able to see the contrast in tone. The places I have used it. For instance, the pocket area and the face scenario. Because I don't want to see that I'm going to match my face into my skin tone. You're going to also need half a meter of iron on fusion, the same set for diffusion if you are dark-skinned or black, I would suggest that you purchase a black or gray fusing. If you are white or lighter skin, I would suggest you purchase a white fusion. This is because if the fabric is fin, you'll be able to see the contrast in fabric color once the garments against your skin. Lastly, you're going to need, of course, a sewing machine. I'm going to use my domestic feel this occasion. Just in case you missed all of that, you can find the items listed as follows. 4. Let's Determine The Length : I was originally gonna keep the design as a dress that might decided to address version in the summer. But today I'm going to turn this dress into a top because I've already got some really great looks that I would like to wear with this talk. I want to be able to work the topic slim jeans, trousers. Therefore, I need to address the Lambda I think suits me. When I went limit classes. I tend to wear tops that fall on the widest part, my hips, which gives the illusion of slimmer, slimmer longer legs. You can pick up some of my personal tips in my previous course, how to discover your individual style language. There's lots of gems to be discovered in that tutorial. You haven't seen it. Why not? Just to get it? I think this is a perfect land. Our clinic here that work. 5. Finalising The Length : The next stage is to create our Hamline. This requires us to mark along where we're going to add our seam allowance. Get your measuring tapes out and measured the lymph from the bottom of your dress up to the fold you have made where you originate, pinned the top. Write it down, but be very clear. The lamp you are going with, because once it has been cut, there's obviously no going back my ideas. We will need to add seam allowance to the bottom of the fold line so that we can create the hem. On this occasion, we are going to give the top 1.5 centimeter seam allowance. Therefore, we have to reduce 1.5 centimeters off the bottom of the dress. Once you have reduced to 1.5 centimeters from that amount, we need to remove that and market on an address where we need to cut. Do this for the full circumference of the dress, making sure you're not leaving to bigger gaps so that when it's time to cut, its easy to cut along your truck markings. Lastly, we're going to button the clothes top, ensuring that the markings match so that when we cut it to dress is even. Once you can see that the markings match and the address cuttings are straight, you are ready to cut. When you are cutting, the best way is to not just fold address, but to open up to dress and cut along each mocking. Keep the surplus fabric aside as we will be using it later. For a few things including making pipe pins to Fred food, the eyelids. 6. We Need Pockets!! They Are Life!!: Next it's all about the pockets. I love pockets. If I have a government, I think they should have pockets and they don't have pockets. Feel like they've cheated me. Hence, me put in pockets in this top. If your top already has pockets, you can skip this stage. Or if you don't want pockets and not as passionate as me about pockets, move on. Go to the next stage. Now to ensure the correct placement of the pockets. Put your address back on, button it up. Put your hands to the position where you feel naturally. Should be pockets and put a pin at the top of the placement. Take off the top and put it aside. We are now going to make the pockets. Now these pockets aren't really for functional reasons, you aren't going to be able to put your phone in or your purse or anything like that. But they should be deep enough to comfortably put your hands in them for purposes, of course. Get your pattern paper or an A4 piece of paper. Firstly, draw a vertical line around 80 centimeters long. The opening of the pocket should be around 15 centimeters so that it's comfortable to put your hands in and out of. Mark the top part of the pocket. Like this. Measure 15 centimeters downwards. And make the second marking. I tend to make the deepness of the pockets to my wrist. Measure your fingertips to your wrist. That would make the lymph of the pocket. Now angular shape as if your hands are in the pocket. You've now created your pocket sack. Now in order to insert a packet seamlessly, we have to make the pocket larger so that it doesn't flap around aimlessly. Therefore, we are going to add three centimeters to the top and the bottom of the pocket. But we must ensure that we marked the entry of the pocket. Very important. We can add seam allowance at one centimeter at the edge of the pocket. Now you have made your pocket pattern and are going to cut it out. But seeing as we're here, before we do that, I will tell you what to write on any future pattern to make. Firstly, write a description of the item the pocket is made for. In this case, we are making a side seeing pocket for an islet hop. But he's types of podcasts are universal so we don't have to write the name of the item, so we can just write side seam, pocket. One side of this represents one section of the pocket and every pocket needs a pair. Therefore, write k2 times two pairs. Fabric lining, depending on what you're used in. Because we need to pockets for this talk. If you need to know how you'd like to pocket down on your fabric. So you will need what is called a green line. Green line indicates which direction to lay the pocket on a fabric. If your fabric stays horizontal and your green line is vertical, you know, to lay the pocket so the gray line remains vertical once it's placed on the fabric. Next, it's time to cut it out. We have established earlier that the pocket entry is going to be 15 centimeters wide. Therefore, we're going to measure 15 centimeters downwards from the pin we put in whilst we had the top on. And that will be your pocket and tree where you need to unpick the top and eventually so in the pocket, get your chalk and replace the pin with markings just in case the pin falls out. Because this is very likely. We know what happens then. Do the same on the other side. Always measure from the bottom of your item upwards to get the right placement. Next, get your scissors. Make a 15 millimeter nip and marked pocket entry. Between these two nips is where we are going to unpick OFDM overlooking and the stitch line. If your selfie see if your garment has both two things. Start with unpicking the overlooking. First, I run into play through the center, which will we can stitch next and pick the flat stitch. Do the same when you have a side. You would have created your openings. I've just realized mine has a top stitch on the outside seemed so. I'm gonna do mine off camera because it's gonna take me quite a while to do this. 7. Creating The Facing For The Eyelets : As you can see, I've opened up my pockets. But if a tool that was moving on as we are working with quite a thin fabric, we will need to make his strong enough to hold the islets without the top becoming true p or out of shapes. So we're going to create a face in foot areas of the eyelids. The eyelids are very light in weight, lighter than I expected. Actually. If you have a body stand, you can follow my example. Or alternatively, put the top on stand in front of a mirror and determine where you actually want the face in where you want the placement for the eyelids. I liked this particular placement and wanted the design to run down in this area. So I put a pin into the shoulder where the center of the design is going to be. Just here. I've measured it on mine, mine, it works out about the central line is around nine centimeters. Nine centimeters from where the top starts. That's where I put my first pin. I'm going to put another pin here to remind me where the center should run. That's the front sorted. We're now going to measure nine centimeters on the color downwards along the back. In order to do the back facing, we can actually do this stage on a table when we're making our patterns. Let's start with a friend because it's the largest area. Make sure you have space around it in order to add your seam around. Get your tracing wheel and make that first market the same as you make your way down the top. I'll let you know from now the face and doesn't need to go all the way to the bottom of the top. I ended mind about 15 centimeters from the Hamline. That was the first row. There's a very important stage that you mustn't miss. How you have to ensure you have all the right measurements for where the central placement for the face and will be. To get an accurate measurement, you need to measure from your very first mark into the edge of the neck client. You have to go down to the next pin and measure from the second mark in to the center front opening up the top, to the next one to the center front opening the top, and so on. And that will mean when you're ready to put your face and then you can do it just simply from the measurements that you've actually made. This point. You can unpin it off from the pattern paper. Get your ruler and draw in your shoulder line. Then you can go down at the front of the top and match up the lines to create your center for your facing. Next measure free centimeters on both sides of the central line on the face in. Finally close to potter man and add one centimeter for your I am back and stitching. We're going to quickly write on the pattern. Horizontal line or vertical line depending on what your paper is placed that runs parallel with the center. To get your green line. Pattern green line will also write front-facing for islet top, because on this occasion, you will be able to use this pattern for this particular topic. We will need one pair to be cut in. Facing fabric. Would also need one pair to be cut in the fusion. We are now going to do the same with the bank. Pin it up to the pattern paper and make sure you have enough space around it, put in your measurements and your seam allowance. Go to the center back of the top. If your top has a center, seem like mine. You can fold your top in half in order to get your senses same and put a pin in it. Now measured downwards, your first marketing would be nine centimeters it down. You don't want it to be too high around the neckline. So nine centimeters down, which would also make sure it's in alignment with the front. Based on pin the top from the paper. Get your ruler or set square, and join all the nips that you've made to create this semicircle. Draw in the horizontal shoulder lines. Not forgetting the one centimeter seam allowance. Then from there, you can add your free centimeters on either side of the central line. Now you should have half of the semicircle complete, or you have to do is fold the paper in half, peanut and cut around the pattern in order to create a full semicircle. We're gonna write on the pattern the same information. Green line. We're going to name it back facing for islet top. You know, because this is specifically for this design, we will need to cut one times fabric. One times fusing. We can cut both face things out and are ready to cut it in the actual fabric. And fusing. 8. Cutting And Fusing Our Patterns... : We're not gonna take too much time on a cutting of the patterns. I'm sure all of you have cut patterns before. We're going to start with a pockets. We will start by cutting the lining fabric, folder fabric in half-life this. But I've decided I'm going to do 1.5 in the actual fabric and the other half in the lining fabric. That is because when your hand is not in the pocket, you don't really want to see the brown line in color. You want to just be able to see ST color fabric. So that's why it's gonna be on the back side of the pocket. If you need to. Put a few pins in to hold a pattern into place before cutting, cut them out, put them aside. Do the same with the actual fabric. Just get that excess fabric that you've cut off earlier and do the same with that folder in half. If you don't want to put any pins into your puppet, you can draw around the pattern like I have just done. Like earlier. Don't forget to put in the notches which we will be using to line up with the pocket entry. It's very imperative that you mark them on your fabric. We're gonna do the same with the front-facing. As you already know, we need a pair of toes. So what we do, folder fabric in half later, pattern on top, put some pins in, make sure it all fits in. We're gonna cut around that where the bat facing this concern. But cut that quickly. Also, going to fold the fabric in half, folder pattern in half. Line up the edge of the pattern. With the edge of the fabric. Make sure it all fits in. A couple of pins in just to hold it in place, cut around that. Also. Repeat the same process with diffuse in fabric. Last but not least, we're going to cut a pair of front-facing the fused in fabric. I almost forgot. In hindsight, I decided I wanted to second row of eyeless, but not one that goes around the neck, but one that's placed slightly lower, your seed into sine. I'm sure you've seen it. What I decided rather than creating a new pattern or we use the front-facing pattern that I created for. Just measure from the bottom upwards, 56 centimeters. Folder, rest of it back. That would be the lamp. I would need folder, FET and panel. You can do that too. I'm going to quickly cut one in the lining fabric and one in the fused and pepper. We might as well use this opportunity whilst we're cutting to make the ropes that we're going to food the eyelids. I'm going to use the belt that came with the top for the largest area. Going to make two more pins to Fred food at two side panels. They're gonna be exactly the same width as the original belt. The belt is seven centimeters folders. When it's laying flat is 14. We're going to add two centimeters full seam allowance. We need to make the lymph Twenty-seven centimeters long. If the excess fabric you have isn't long enough, stitch two fabrics together to gain a lump view require. All it does is add character. It looked great once it's threaded through photo fabric in an area that is longer than 27 centimeters. Next, fold it down so that the fabric has double and putting pins to secure it. Now you've created the length of your ropes and all you have to do is cut the lymph out. Then once you've cut that out, cut along the foal to get the two ropes. Now when your eye in and on diffusing at a medium heat, not too hot. Place the matching fusing fabric, glue down onto the fabric. And I an unlikely. If it's too hot, it will start to pull back Kenny all know that the temperature is too hot. You can use a little bit of steam or so to fuser. Once you've done that, at this point, you could either get your measuring tape or if you know by eye and you can judge what one centimeter looks like. Ion in the one centimeter seam allowance. Both on the outside of the face and on the inside curve or sir. Now the inside curve can be a little bit difficult when In, in the one centimeter when you get to the middle of it, if you do find it difficult, you can make a 0.5 nip right in the center, which will help you to fold it back easier. Later fabric down first place to match in fusion. On top of it. Gently iron in place. They should fit together nicely. If they don't, they don't always. You can cut off the excess. Do the same with the opposite side. You'll know which way to lay the fused and onto the fabric and which fuse in his full which side of the fabric? Because of we've cut it as a pair. Now that we've fused them. The next stage is to press the one centimeter seam allowance along both sides of the face. 9. Time To Get The Sewing Machine Out!!: It's time to dust off the machine. Let's start by Fred in the machines and fill in the Poppins. If you've got more than one color. If your fabric and your pockets are different colors and you want to use different friends, I'm a bit pedantic. Probably chance to bobby pins or changed the frets to match the pockets. You can do that at this stage. I guess I'm used to do. And so because I've always worked with production and that type of thing is really important to me. But that's personal to me. If it doesn't bother you, don't feel obligated to do this. Firstly, we are going to create two pockets. Get the pockets you've cut out and lay them in pairs like this diagram. Obviously this is only relative to those who have followed my lead and have cut the two different pockets into colors, lay them so that they are mirror image of a pair. Them face in the effort, put pin them together and get ready to start sewing. We're going to sort the entire outside curve of the pocket on a straight stitch. Once you have done that. 10. Facing Up To It All!! : Let's start by Sony. Face things together. Before you do, make sure you have the placements correct. Before you start sewing, get your free pieces. Start with a back face in, lay it down with the fabric side facing upwards, then pin the left side with the fabric facing downwards like this. Do the same with the right. Making sure the fabric is facing downwards. Fundamentally, it should be the same shape as the top. If you've got that correct. Let's fold to show the seamed together. We're going to start by marking the center of both showed a face inheritance is four centimeters to decenter with the seam allowance. Now we're going to line up the right shoulder with marketing we made earlier on the top. And if you can't see the marking, you should find the measurements in your notes. Because obviously, markings can fade. As we go down the front-facing. We can use the center front measurements we recorded before to get the correct placement. Checked that the fabric underneath is flat during your pin in. Make sure you're not pin in both the front and back together. And then once you've completed one side, repeat the same process on the front side. Once you are at the back facing, double-check that the fabric underneath is laying flat before you start pinning. If it isn't, there is some gavin. You may have to adjust the shoulder pins and bring them closer to the neck line. Or you can leave it to the design. It could be part of the design. Sorry. I should've started with the back facing to start with the second face. And it's really simple to pin. Measure the length of your face. Then measure the lamp on your actual top. Making sure the placement is three centimeters above the bottom of the top because that will account for the seam allowance. When a talk is turned up, put a pin at the top roughly where the face and should line up with. Next measure at 1.5 centimeters space between the two facings. Now you can pin it into place. Remember to keep an eye on the fabric below the face in. Make sure you're not pin in both the front and the back together. I'm going to run food is so in section really quickly. Because in short, sewing in the face, it does take a bit of time. I would suggest doing it slowly because if you try to rush it, you will most definitely need to go back and unpick. I had to going to start with the right shoulder and work my way around the top. You can start wherever you want, wherever you want. But as a left ear, this is the point I'm going to start at. Began to serve as close to the fold line as possible. Please remember to take out your pins as you go along. If you need to stop for any reason. Remember to keep the needle in the fabric and the foot down. Obviously to avoid any movement of the stitch in. Initial problems down the line. Keep going. Getting all my staff all my staff. 11. Hem It Up, Rope It Up!! : Okay. We're on the home straight and almost finished with. But first get your ironing board out and set your iron on a warm hand. We're going to press the hand with a 1.5 centimeters seam allowance. You can start with your measuring tape if you need to. Start learning to officially cage two measurements, you want to attend to. It can be really important, especially if two area your Hammond is large ones such as a full-scale, that if you had to use a measuring tape for that amount of effort, you'd be there all day. Even if it takes a while. It's a good skill to have. However, when you do get to the end to ensure that the front of your top aligns to use your measuring tape and measure 1.5 centimeters. Older Ham has been pressed. We are going to set machine to six Act Stamp. Act is point. We're gonna to zigzag along the Hamline. Take your time. No hurry. Once you have done that, change your machine stitch to straight stitch. You're going to turn up the hand and stitch along the zigzag. If you want, you can use pins to secure the Hamline. Alternatively, you can hold the fabric down. Quite Family. Guide to Machine slowly. Keep folding back and guide in slowly. Keeping the needle close. Great. We shouldn't Hamline and all that's left are the ropes for the island. Let's fold the fabric in half. Said that the right side of it is on the inside. Follow the style of the original bouts. I'm going to angle the edge search at this point. I'm also going to leave the bottom of the rope open. So that will be where we turn through the fabric. I'm doing this because the edge of that fabric will not be seen. They might be physical because it will be on the inside of the top. It makes ten. And the fact that for really easy, just like this. Okay, We're finished. Your sewing machine. Almost there. Just a couple of more fixed will have on YouTube. 12. We Are Nearly There, Let's Create The Eyelets : Right, we're almost there. Start marking how islets, starting with the first row closest to the center front layer top on a table and measure from the show to sing the placement of the first eyelid. I didn't put it understand early on decided I've made the first islet 5.5 centimeters down from the shoulder. Shoulder seeing opinion, you will know approximately where to make your mark in. Next, you need to find the center placement. It meshes free certain meters across to get the center of the face him. Make your mark. This is your placement for your first islet. Do the same on the other side. Repeat the process. Next, measure 1617 meters down from the first islet. Get your second placement. Find the center of the face in and make your mark. Put a pin in. Once again, find your center. Once you find your center, make a mark and that will be your second islet placement. The same on the other side was Peter. Same process for the next two islands. As you can see, we are making the marks on the right side of the fabric. When we put the eyelids, they are actually facing front ways. Have you done the same on both sides? Then we are ready to do the second panel. We again start the second set of islands four centimeters from the top of the stitch line of the face in measure four centimeters down and put a pin in to gauge roughly where you want to put your mark, your center, your free centimeters across. I make your first due to say many office side. Next we're going to measure 15 centimeters down. Once again, find our center pin in. I'm using a fabric pen actually. If you have one of these, they're very useful. Repeat the process for the next two eyelids. Exactly the same. On the other side. Almost done tenet up onto the fun. Measured the space from the center about color to your first placement. Your first placement is going to be five centimeters. Actually 5.5 centimeters on both sides of the center. Back. Always remember we're talking about on top of the face and always mark on their face it. Put a pin in to get your rough placement. Then you're going to find your center and your gonna put a pin in inside of the center back to get your 5.5. Since my first placement. Now measure ten centimeters across. That will give you your second placement. You're going to put a pin in just to get the rough placement. You're going to find your center. Make your mark. Repeat the same on the other side. And voila, we have our four islets in the back of the top. I wanted to point out, after many attempts to realize that the islet punch a tool does not work with this type of fabric. I'm USA. It was fundamentally for heavier duty materials such as leper out where waterproof fabrics, that kind of thing. But we move on, discovery of this, we are going to have to make the punctures by hand. And we'll have to cut them out with scissors. What what, hold up, hold up. Wait a minute. I know I know. 20 islets full fly. If you do it while listening to your favorite podcasts, watching your favorite show. Past constellation. You can still make the indentation with the tool and draw in your circle like I have. Then cut freedom it with a pair of scissors at your own leisure. You should pay to cut through the layers of fabric to make your job a lot easier. Then use the paresis. There's not a not too large US assistance to just cut out each circle. It really isn't that difficult. I'm going to cut mine off camera. We've got work to do. People. See you on the next section. Great. We have lift off. We're just going to take a few minutes now to get familiar with the process of creating islands. When you make islets, you have to make sure you have a strong surface to work on. And of course the fabric has to be punctured before you start. I've got a scrap piece of fabric folded in half and security with a couple of pins to ensure the Qatar doesn't move around. You need the base of the kit, which is the circle tool. Put an islet in. The eyelid, has the extended piece, which is where the fabric will sit in. Next, put your fabric and you will need a washer. On top of that. You have to place the over-share so that it sits in the exact shape of the eye. That lastly, you will need the large tool with a slightly pointed in that was sitting the eyelid. Now makes sure it will feels like everything is in its correct place. Then you're gonna hammer family no more than four times. Otherwise you can potentially damage the islet. I've noticed with these larger islet Studies Center doesn't collapse that they do with the smallest softer ones. As long as the washer is secure. Your good. Let's do on our new topic. If you feel you need to have another practice run, then go for it. There are lots of them to get through, so take your time. Don't rush. I'll see you on the other side. 13. This Is Really The Last Thing...: Okay, two more things left. I'm already lovingness, new talk. It looks great. Just the eyelids, what you think. We are getting a fresh fruit or rope. You can do it in whatever style you choose. I'm going to start with the side panel. Pindar wrote to Dr. facing temporarily is we're gonna attack into place once we are finished, loops and leave it hanging. Next one is the biggest section, gonna start by Fred and birth to center that loops for me inside outlets. Then go in and out through the rest of the loops. Lastly, do the same to define a panel. On the inside of the top down. We've reached the final stage. But then to quickly tap devote to decide facing. I didn't want to make it permanent in case I want you to change the rope at any stage. I just wanted to secure enough to keep it in place. Lastly, as you can see, the pocket is quite flimsy. It will hang below the length of two top if it's not secured against the face in late flat. Exactly it to the face in family. Paint. This on the other side. We done. We've reached our final destination. The top is finished and I love it. The original dress was okay, but I love this talk. It can be worn with lots of things. Jane's leather pants, lack of trust it with slimmer fit importance. I'm so pleased with the outcome. What do you think? 14. It's Been Real!!: I hope this tutorial has inspired you to find new creative ways to turn your unloved items into new stylish wardrobe century. You don't have to follow my directions exactly. Use your guidance. Be expansive. Just explore really. Ask yourself, what would I like to do with this thing? Be really surprise. What comes to you? On that note? I'd like to say thanks for taking part. I really enjoyed having you here. Keep learning about yourself, keep continuing to grow, keep creating. Because when you do, your keep discovering new dimensions of who you are. Until the next time. That mistake. Before I please follow me here on Skillshare so that you can know when I upload any new courses. If you would like to learn more about I've aspects of my world. You can also follow me on my YouTube channel, reflection to prospection. I talked about a lot of other things. And also my Instagram and the other handles down below. Once again, fence for joining me here and I look forward to seeing you on the next one.