How to: Dresser to sideboard 3, new parts | Ron Payne | Skillshare

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How to: Dresser to sideboard 3, new parts

teacher avatar Ron Payne, Blacksmith, woodworker, all-around crafter

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Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

17 Lessons (3h 41m)
    • 1. Introduction and Project

    • 2. Safety

    • 3. Prep work part 1

    • 4. Prep work part 2

    • 5. Bracing

    • 6. Bottom Shelf

    • 7. Drawers part 1

    • 8. Drawers part 2

    • 9. Doors part 1

    • 10. Doors part 2

    • 11. Doors part 3

    • 12. Pull-out Shelf support framework part 1

    • 13. Pull-out Shelf support framework part 2

    • 14. Pull-out Shelf part 1

    • 15. Pull-out Shelf part 2

    • 16. Last details

    • 17. Final thoughts

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About This Class

Here in part 3 of this series on furniture refurbishment I'll be making the new pieces and repairing any pieces that just need a little work.  I'll also install those parts that get put on now.

This is the point where woodworking skills and tools come into play.  A lot of what I'll be doing can be done with hand tools.  So I'll demonstrate the use of hand tools although I'll be using power tools for most of the work.

Expect to spend a fair amount of time on this part of the series.

If I've done it right, free enrollment can be found here.

Meet Your Teacher

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Ron Payne

Blacksmith, woodworker, all-around crafter


I am driven by a need to create. This has lead me down some interesting roads.

I know a bit about woodwork, metal work, leather, casting, and several other disciplines. I also enjoy passing along what I know to others.

Life is a continual path of improvement.


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1. Introduction and Project: Hello, I'm wrong. Welcome to the third installment in my Siris of before Between old furniture and this class , I'm going to make the new parts for the sidebar side board. It's going to start with repairing the drawers I already have and then making the modifications to allow for the pullout shelf and making the blood filth, as well as putting the racing in a place that needs to be repaired and reattaching back. Finally, I will wrap up by putting the trim pieces back in place as well as the new trim pieces for the modifications I've made. The project for this class is too. Do the repair work and create whatever pieces you need for the piece of furniture your refurbishing. Feel free to upload a before and after picture of your project. Do the project section of this class 2. Safety: before I get on to the nuts and bolts of this project, so to speak. I would like to mention a few words about safety. I've been doing this a few decades, and I still have all my fingers and toes. I keep an eye on what I'm doing. Maintain my focus on the project at hand, try and follow the best safety procedures I know with as what I learned. IHS, a few decades old modern thought on safest were you. Some tools may have changed since then, so I'm going to encourage you to read, understand and follow the instructions you get with your tools. And if there's any conflict between what I say and what is in the manuals for your tools, by all means follow manuals for your tools. Nearly every tool you used in woodworking is going to be either sharp or fast moving parts . It may be heavy, and it's possible that it is some combination off multiple of these. Pay attention to what you're doing where the appropriate safety gear, but this is a respirator dust mask. If you're creating dust of just sanding or sawing a very shield if you're using or eyeglasses, eye goggles if you're using the table, saw or drill, press router, something along those lines and earplugs if you're using anything that creates loud noises . 3. Prep work part 1: the first thing I'm going to do to prepare to make the new parts and get everything fit together. I'm going to take this back off. It's got loose down here, which is gonna very least require reattachment. But take the back off all of easier access to the inside of some of this. The things I'll do later, I may keep this piece may replace it. It can be any be replaced with quarter inch plywood, maybe, or she of or a board, which is what this stuff is. To do this, I'm going to use a screwdriver and a pair of players, you parasite cutters. This was stapled in place. Fairly simple question building upon how deep this staple of setting you may be able to get the edge of your driver under eat there. Some people, I think, it there's driver under there. You can pull it out, keep a thumb on there and get the whole stapled out are better off using players. Sometimes you can catch whole stable from the beginning with pliers. This one, probably for enough, maybe. No, no, it's harder to get a hold of for most players there. Some players that air ground a little bit different than you get in there with side cutters . Reject. Grab. Maybe most of the time I find it fairly efficient. Just do go around and get it. All started with screwdriver first. Since this bottom is done, you could also go with her with something that just on the loose you may find your particular back if you're taking it off, has been nailed or screwed on believed to use the appropriate methods to remove nails or screws. If that's what now that that's off might be said it. Take a get a hammer. Yeah, all these are removed All of the staples around here Removing the stable staples means I'm not going to cash them on myself and wind up needing to go fetch your band Aid. Got the staple over the edge. I just it back story. It looks like I'm not going to need the players. These are coming out easy with the back off. See where something that's build. There's a little bit of moisture damage here. It dripped down here leading to it's a mold growth under here. This piece in this piece, our same material took off back hardback, the hardboard, and they serve the purpose of stiffening the whole structure because of the changes that make it. I'm going to have a piece of Joe here. This could be a little bit we to store stuff on, so I'm going to take this out and replace it with a piece of plywood. 38 maybe half inch. We'll look into what I've got on hand. If I don't have anything suitable hand, I'll probably buy half inch. Don't buy a BB birch. More than likely, it is a good quality Plywood. Bebe refers to the two faces, both being great, be birches, what the surface material is made of. It's a good general purpose shelf material, since I'm going to put a shelf here. As I mentioned earlier, this shelf is going to be changed a little bit because I have someone interested in S who's planning not using it as an entertainment center instead of sideboard. So this shelf will be put in place that in such a way slight out. But again, this whole structure here is going to go away. So I got to remove this'll brace piece. Here do staples in each section I'll take my hammer and kept from the front. It should come out easy and remove the stables. He's going to require players once I remove this about him board here, this piece running all the way across these outside. They're going to weaken significantly unless there's another race across there. But this particular piece of furniture there's not. So I'm going to leave this in until I'm ready to replace it with a shelf. But I want to go ahead and remove. This one now has a couple of breaks pieces here in here, which stick killed in Brandon. No stapled staples are common and mass produced furniture because it's really fast to use a pneumatic state blurb. A couple of Staples will hold fairly well that these sites removed the state bull in a moment that is Phillips Head Screwdriver Build heads group here. I don't need to take that off with this group. I don't have enough rooms you could see too. Screw this straight in like this. There's a good chance that they were on a slight angle. Do you have direct? They put it in and they get step around and take one front. Same way joining the lake down here. At this joint, I can see that there is some sort of 10 in traveling through from this piece into this one , which means I'm going to either have to separate the size, pull that out or cut 10. If I try to separate the sides, I'm going to wind up having to take the entire thing apart into pieces. That's more work than I want to get into. So I'm going to use a Japanese style pull saw. Do you trim this 10? Enough. The reason I'm using assault like this is pull sauce tend to be much thinner in the Western style Push saws. The blade has a big advantage on getting into stuff like this. This particular one has cross cut on. Once I rip on the other across getting here, I'm going to use the grass outside. If you wanted to use power tools for this, I would recommend one of the oscillating sauce that they've got on the market today. It will let you get in much closer with more control than just about any other power saw. That's on the market that I'm aware of when I do this notice. I hold the saw up against the side that keeps a nice flush cut. One of the advantages to this is being flexible. It's easy to get real close and make a left cut that way. If you listen close, you hear the sound of the cut changes. You're getting close to the end. I was able to I put my finger to their keep this from falling away uncontrollably. I hate hopefully whole, or knock this back and say all the pieces, except for what has mold It doesn't pull, which means it's been clue glued and true to form the blue fractures. This piece is trashed. This is Timmins. If it's done in there, it was similar to what was sticking off the end of this. We'll need a little bit of standing before I finish things off the ingrained from this tenant. It would be visible here that this is at the back of the cabinet. I'm not concerned about it, and I'm because I've been putting in a new shelf in here. I can cover that up with the new pieces 4. Prep work part 2: This is to separate pieces there, just about flesh on the top. But there's a little bit of a lip on the bottom. - I've cut through both tendons. Now I'm going to see if this from peace. Well, either cap off or be removed readily from the back piece, we got Staples going down through from the top since I really hoping to really hoping to save this. But no right may still be able to reuse. This piece was a little bit of carry out there, but with this what I may wind up doing, I may either flipping over or I may turn it around and make decorative element that will take care of that. So you don't have to. So I don't have to worry about hiding that another way. I don't quite have no room gets this saw in here. So for this piece, I'm going to have to use my oscillating saw. This is an oscillating so technically enough sleep, multi tool. It just happens to be the one I own there. Several good ones out on the market. I've got it set up with a wood cutting blade. With this offset, I will be able to hold against this side and cut right flush. The same right did with me Eastern style Pull saw. I've got your plugs in. I've got a respirator for the way I'm going to be working. I don't really feel the need for additional protection. I put the blade on. This is unplug going to go look it in just my camera. Do you show the work and I'll be back. - This shows the two tenants that I just cut through. At this point, I've got do more pieces to remove. Now, before I start making new pieces, that's these two races here first, I think I'm going to make when I start making new is the shelf for the bottom. Doing that will be able to take this out, put new shelf in with minimal chances of this getting kicked, knocked around or something done to it, that's going to result. And we can eat any of the joints I'm not messing with. But these pieces here, well, they're providing some support, are providing a whole lot I've got once grew here two screws here. The other side is going to come off the same way. I'm hoping I could do this without tipping it up, okay? And that's all going to depend upon this crew here. What kind of angle? No, I'm going to have to tip up for that. These two here, There's the angle old you, since I had to tip this up to get to this group, and it feels like there's some sort of doubt under there that I'm going to try and step this up off of. I set a couple of boards down to minimize the risk of marring the face of this as I work. Okay, going to try wooden mallet first? I wonder. There's a hole here. It may be that it's not a doubt it may be. It's got a screw run. It does greens a mallet or hammer is not going to do many good. We're taking this breaks all the same way. I took the other one off Grew feels like it's all the way out, but it's not coming, so it may have a little bit of we want it. It did 5. Bracing: This is the brace piece that I took off back had been in place like this. It's the same material used here. So I'm just going to you do this in place for this brace. If I wanted to do more than glue it, it could put a nail or stable and angle. But glue should suffice for for this piece, rather than take amazement, transfer mangement and risk a mistake there. I'm going to mark this in place. And when I make a mark, if it's not something that going to be visible, I like a nice big carrot. So if I set the piece of Sidon get called away, I don't have to come back and verify by putting in place. And okay, there's my mark. I know that's my mark. You cut this piece, I'm going to demonstrate cutting with a handsaw to cover the handsaw. I do need to mark all the way across, going to use a speed square to get a strict line all the way across, going to clamp my work piece down. I'll be using the saying Pulse. Aw, I used earlier. This being a piece of plywood has both is both a grip and a crosscut saw. I'm cross cutting. He served the visible services. So I'm going to use the cross cut side line up on my mark. Some people will start going in the opposite direction to get a curve started. I don't like doing that. I prefer to dork in place. I use my finger or sometimes my thumb except my so in place, but my thumb or finger up against it to ensure my solid does not wander as I start. You noticed? I don't. I'm not pushing against it like this. You push against it like this, you run the risk of catching your finger on the saw teeth. I'm using a knuckle to like this to keep my alignment straight. Having a shiny saw plate you can see in the reflection if you're running square to your piece or not, this is a full saw cuts on the pull motion. So when I push back, I'm relieving the pressure a little bit. I'm running at an angle that's going to let me get all the way across with most of my saw blade before I come through the other side. That's going to help keep my cut straight. Once I get my cut lined up all the way across. At this point, I move my finger away from the song and I've got a curve to keep myself straight. I'll gradually increase my angle and kill. I start to get vibrations. I think that this is a very easy way to know if you're sawing at the correct angle for that . Soft and material does not take a lot of structure. Your saw sharp Your Saul will do the work for you. This piece I will just Google in place for a brace. You've got my he's cut and it's ready to groom place. I hide glue in the little pup that I used to heat it up in and the breast to apply. Most people don't have a problem. You see what glue? There are some advantages, too. Hi glue. It's completely reversible, and we'll stick to itself. Things that aren't always true for other glues. I tried it a few years ago when I really liked it, so I just stuck with it. You have to heat it up to about 140 degrees a little right here. But so in the data But some on the brace consist is not going to be a normally visible part of for the peace. It's not overly critical to make it to worry about the over age on the glue. Another nice thing about hot high glue is once it cools off, it will hold itself in place until it's fully cured. So I've only got hold this for a couple of minutes until it's cool to the point it's grabbed. Then I'll be able to go about cutting other pieces while this continues to set out. I've given this, um, thought weighed the pros and cons of reusing the old breaks pieces versus making new. Since I don't have anything white enough to make these breaks pieces out of single solid piece, I'm just going to re clue the old ones. It's going to have the same structural integrity, regardless of whether I do that. This way don't have to buy money to spend money buying a piece of wide enough for a piece of something white enough to make the brakes with. But before I re glued this, I want to make sure I have a properly prepared joint. Everything is going to be cuts already straight and set up, so that fits well together. But if there's any old glue on here, it could interfere with the new glue. So I'm going to take my card scraper and just remove a little bit of the surface to take in remains of the old glue offer. There. Doing this will ensure the best possible bond. When I re glue this, I don't need to take off very much. If you don't have cards caper or are comfortable using one, I would suggest sandpaper. Just a couple of quick passes. All you're looking for is removing the old blue, getting a fresh surface for the new glued to attached. If you get my braces, prepare, got my glue hot and ready. Instead of trying to clamp things together, I'm going to use Take this way. I'm not trying to fiddle always got what glue in here with getting everything lined up. It can take my time and make sure everything is lined up. Work needs to be first after the glue is that will remove the old glue from here before put it back in place. With my two pieces ready to go, I need to do is glue brush. A little bit of glue does not take much glue it all to hold something like this in place. My peace is back up. Hey, stretch the tape a little bit when I put it in place that will provide some clamping power across there. But that dry and I'm ready to move this glue and put the brakes is in place. I've already done the other one the same way. The glue, his head, 20 of time too set up. Now I'll remove this old glue here. What's called a bench dog? Facer. Here. There's a bench dog built into this vice. This allows me to hold my work piece in place without the need of a clamp taking the old roof. This'll one fits Breitbart. If you don't have a scraper again, I recommend same paper. Did you want take just through the glue to the point where you've got bare wood? I want to make sure I've got plenty of surface area for the new going to use my power sander to remove the glue off of this piece here. There's not very much of it. It's a little bit thick right there and getting it. What's there off? Make for a better glue joint than leaving it in place. Having cleaned the glue up. Precluded this piece together. I'm not ready to put this piece back in place. Oh, going to start? I put in some fresh glue on here and on the brakes piece. It doesn't take a lot of glue. Do you hold just, you know, keep contacting place. You know, holding is in place. My screws back in. You get this done before the glue starts to cure. Just in case I need to make any minor adjustment is sitting so that cool line up properly. Okay, on this one. See, the everything isn't one, you know. Quite as well. Was it did on the other one. Not all cuts are made. Perfect. The same thing. You on there, you on there, there and there. In here, there. Get everything back together before the glue starts to set. Not quite tightening because this one's not lining up. Exactly. Perfect. I'm not quite tightening all of my screws down until get everything in. So I know that all of my holes have lined up properly. Now that that's done. Get this glue data set. Then I'll be ready to extend this back up and we're finished working on installing the shelves. 6. Bottom Shelf: before I can start cutting new pieces, I need to take some measurements. What I'm going to do here, you can measure sighs I need for this show. Besides, I'm going to need for the pullout shelf for the door they need to make for the drying. Make on the top. I'll take the measurements off of the other drawer that I took apart. I'll use that drawer face for the measurements for the new drawer faces. I've also been thinking about it and decided that there's really no reason to get rid of this shelf. If I get rid of this shelf, lose this strong 10 enjoying here, and it's going to be a lot of work to put another strong joint in place. This is already at the bottom of the peace. The downside of doing this. I will lose a little bit of room, and I will need to make a cover strip for the front to cover the edge of the play. With that, I'm putting in place. I've got a piece of Hef, each bolting Bert play that will be the shelf brace that it run top to bottom. I'm going to glue in place here to add a little bit of strength. At one time, there may have been a racing here. It could have fallen out, been knocked out something. I need to take several measurements. I need to run from the inside of this side to the inside of the other side, from the inside of the front, face to the back edge. That's going to be the size of the shelf. I need to cut the other shelves, since it's going to pull out. Needs to be a little bit different. And don't measure that when I stand this back up. And that's the same time. All measure for the doors going to write everything down. I'll double check my measurements as I go along the insight measurement I'm going to put up against this edge or the inside on the other side. That and read off here. I've got 37 inches and 18 inch. Write that down, along with a note as to what this measurement is or here to this. This has been rep. It'd out to allow for the back piece you need to stop there. That is 1/8 in short of 17 inches, which makes it 16 and 78 inch. That is what I'll cut the shelf. It's going to go in here going to cut it, slide it in place and then use a a couple of small nails around, too. Hold it in place. I'll wind up having to, Like I said, put a Phil strip on the front to hide the edge of the play. Would willing. Here, I'm going to measure the size of the back, and that is going to run from the inside of this lift to the inside on the other that I've got 38 1/8 and from the top down, I've got 28 3 If everything is square, the measurements on the other side will be the same. Since this was since his pieces together and looks good and still stable. I'm going to run under the belief that it is square and I don't need to measure the other sides to ensure the piece will fit. No one thing about take measures notice. This hook has a little bit of play on. It's engineered that way. This took hook has a certain amount of that. Let's do it so If you push this down and push it up against, then you to transfer the measurement to an outside The amount of playing the hook accounts for the thickness of the hook up. This so you're mark your major minutes inside and outside match. I took an inside mangement there. Now I'm working in outside measurement this link. We'll get it 37 8 Some people will use mechanical pencils with a much finer light in the carpenter pencil I have here whatever may let you make a mark that accurate and easily read will work for you. This is a framing square. If I trust my square to be actually square. Generally speaking, they are. Sometimes they've been dropped an armed. If it's square, I can like up my mark this edge here long enough to go all the way across. This is a two foot by four foot piece. This is two foot here and running my mark down. Yes, So I'm going to be using He's a circular saw from apart from a Cordless kit that I have. This is 1/2 of a two piece aluminum track way. This works. Did you clamp this? Where you're set matches the distance from the side of the blade to the edge. Then you can just run that along your track. There's not much flex in this, so it's got a pretty good straight. He's a pretty good straight cuts along. You stay there. If you set your track on the side that you're going to keep, then if you do drift away, you drift into the waste and you don't completely lose this piece of material. Another thing I've done very carefully measured and cut a block. This tells me how four I need to offset my track to give me cut where I want it. This is for this. A, in their own way, is here. I want the weight of the saw over the piece. I'm going to keep this way when the other piece pulls away. I don't I'm not suddenly supporting the entire way to this song, which means I line up here and clamp. I learned that my marks on the other side clamp a little bit off there. Go. You noticed that this puts enough wait over the edge of my bench that it's a bit wobbly, so I will get a couple of clamps and put on here to hold this in place. Insurers. My peace doesn't move insurers. I don't lose control. Set a couple of blocks, which you'll keep me from morning. My work piece. I don't need to be overly tight. Just enough to keep things from shifting around. Double check a major met I got. I think she'll respirator and I'm going to put earplugs in. Then I'll be ready to cut. There's that. Sorry. The other thing about running the walk like this I don't have to make a physical measurement on the piece. You to make your measurement at the same time you put your tract in place. Therefore, my measurements 16. But my safety equipment back on and I'm ready to cut. I've got my shelf cut the size and I ascended the marks off of the surface. We'll see how well, if it if I was building this entirely from scratch, we cook Date owes inside for it, too. Rest in since I'm not sitting place getting it a little bit. 16th minute or so work. We'll make installation easier. And again, You still a little bit small. Like that isn't a big issue their ways to run from around the inside that will look good and I won't interfere with it. Uses the shelf. Seeing almost touching here I am touching here. A little bit of a gap here. This side piece over the years is the oldest, this tiny bit of a bow. It's not uncommon for wood to bow a little bit. I think you have to consider pushing that all the way in. I'm good on this side. Got a little bit of a gap here. Good on that. If I If I was doing this from scratch and had my data was here getting a piece cut this close, we'll never see this gap retrofitting like this. You're occasionally buying stuff like this. If you're in a situation where you can't take off the back to get access, you wind up having foot this piece in the front angle. Then in order to get it to slide down properly, you need to be a little bit short anyway. So I'm going to run a little bit of trim worker bony inside of that. Once everything else is done as it is, this piece is ready to go in, Cut a bit of trim. Work for the front. After I get this set, I've got a few one inch finishing nails here is going to But if you around the sides to keep the shelf in place when you're driving small nails like this, if you, uh, sit there, hold it well, you would normally expect to see, you know, held like this, making your fingers hurt a whole lot. If you hold the deal between your fingers like this, it's not going to hurt as much. When you smack your fingers, you want to stop just a little bit short, driving the nail all the way and finish it with the nails. I think it just below the surface and then put a little putty on there. Come back and sand it again after. But he's had a chance to set, and this now will be pretty much invisible. I'm going to use three now along the back and three knows along the front 7. Drawers part 1: This is the pulled drawer face that I still had for the small door. This is the your face birth e narrow long drawer. I'm going to use this drawer face here as the two new drawer faces for the small drawers on top. Take my measurements off this one, as there's a profile along here, is going to be easier to take my measurements on the back. Good 4 3/8 This one and good by in 7/16. So I need to take an inch and 3/16 total. Which is it? 19 16th? Because take it. But opening a job, I'm going to be completely removing a little, plus a little bit. This profile that's also going to change where the original heart worse. That which currently is just a little bit a both the center line. So I'm going to take just a little bit more off of the bottom side. Then I am off the top side. They need to take, but total of an inch and 3/16 offer here. I got a blade in here Fulcher plate at 18 inch, so I'm going to lose 1/4 inch total in my soccer they need to take just under half an inch off of either side. I want to come. I'm going to keep between defense and the blade. I got it all set up the depth appropriate Something that this sickness. I verified my cut on a piece of scrap. I have been aboard in place. Respirator and safety goggles pushed it. I am ready to cut as soon as I get safety Girl E have my sauce set up on the other side. This will be the final cut to make it the same whip already verified. It's in the correct place. Oh, my. Take a year off. Finish this cut with this piece. Now to with and cross cut. This is 17 and 1/4 inches. Oh, put a mark. Yeah, 17 and 1/4 inches. I'll put another market 17 1/4 inches. The other side. Because I need to fake door faces out of this. If you don't have a miter saw, you can certainly take. May come work all the way across with square. Cut this with. So this is a cross cut. You want a cross cut so lined up there, So put my respirator on and this is the original piece. These are going to be my two new faces links with their another saint. But I concede this one has rabbits around. Besides that, these two don't only two put those in for to fit properly. That will be using router table. Additionally, we've got some slight differences in how these line up on the this has built has the profile. This profile is not quite the same, but by the time I finish making a pass with a router, it will be also will need to route copper bottom with some proof. While I've got the details on this side from the old piece, there are men on this side. If these stuff tells, don't line up with the doctor tells on the pieces I've already got. I'll need to change the attachment in some way. When I cut this drawer face here down to match the size of this drawer face the way I cut it. In order to keep my polls center, my doctor tells no longer lineup because my dog tells no longer line up. I'm not going to be able to just push everything back together using the stuff tells. I need to do something to allow us to fit. My options are I could cut off here and then blue and nail the drawer face on this side is not a problem because I can wreak. Don't tells Over here, I've got nothing. Teoh starting from fresh on this end. Do that and I'm relying on blues and nails to hold this like together. Another option I could do is to fill in with something I can machine. These duck tells a lot of two part epoxy czar machine herbal that will make a nice on If you don't like having an epoxy fix here, I'm not only Fondo used epoxy, I don't have to. So other option. And what I do is do you take this good? The dog tails off here and then re cut from my doc tells on this on the size to allow this to fit in place on this side over here. I'll just be cutting too. Match. Okay, that will result in the drawer being just a little bit shorter. So I'm also going to have cut the drawer bottom down a little bit and I'll be cutting making cuts on all four of the front sides so that they all match. You've got my saw. All ready to go, defense going to line up right with this edge now that I've got in place like you. 8. Drawers part 2: I've got my router table set up with a straight bit there, my fences set. So make this. It too passes doing what you have a lot of death to cover doing in two passes we do assistant risk of carry out or some other problem that will result in needing to refresh pieces or something along those lines. So I'll put my safety gear on and make my passes way thing. With my first pair of passes made, I will unplug the router, adjust my fence for the next path. The rest of the passes are all going to be pretty much what you just saw just with defense moved over until I get as much removed as I need it, as I need rather bits depending on hell. Sharp they are, can take an eight to maybe 1/4 inch bite. Mac. Absolute maximum if it's very sharp. I don't like to stick around to, and they're just a little under per pass. Takes a little bit longer, but it ultimately gives better results. I got a jig set up here, which could be used to cut either finger joints or dovetail joints. I've got a don't tell bit set up here. This is one of my side pieces that I'm going to be using for a drawer. So this point I'm ready to pet. Doc tells in this side there I have my first side re cut for dovetails. I'll set the other three sides up and cut those the same. Then I will cut the new details I need in the face. For now. I've got my door face that I need to route to match. Besides a cut set up in my jig, I'll put my safety gear on and about this side. I'm no ready to help be groove that the bottom drawer is going to sit in. I've got a strict cutting bit in my rather on router table of the appropriate size. It's set to a lower depth than, um, ultimately going to run out because router bits. I don't really like to take big chunks at a time, so I'm going to take several passes to get to the correct death. With the router table off, I'm going to adjust the depth, take a little bit more. It's gonna be exactly the same thing. You just saw a few more passes until I get to the correct death. The slide that the drawer it's used to keep the drawer pulling out straight sticks far enough out that the original had rounded out recess for that slide. This provides some additional support for the drawer bottom, so I'm going to do the same thing here. Of all, I've still got the strict bit in my router. But I put the router on my plunge base to do this, and I've already marked off where I need this Theo . With duck tails cut and my grooves routed, I may do a little. Jill worked clean this clean up the corners here. The only thing I got left is to get all of the profiles to match. I don't have a single bit that matches this profile. I've got two bits that come close enough. I'll be able to sand it and get them to match block. Now emerge. Issue first, make the first past for managing this profile. - I'm going to do the same thing you just saw with the other drawer face. Put the other router bit in and make my other path. It's going to look exactly the same as what you just saw. This is one of the drawer bottoms that I'm reusing because I trimmed the site pieces down to we cut dovetails. I also need to shorten the drawer bottoms so they'll fit properly. I've set up to take a events to take 1/4 inch off here, but my safety gear myself set up. You have a track down here? If it wasn't for this track, I could do this a lot easier on the table saw. But with this track and with the other one set up the way it is, I'm going to cut both of these on a set up like this with my circular saw, - I'm ready to glue this drawer face or this drawer up. Do you Side back front Laid out a thing there. Just the flan. Well, everything in place appropriate. Sorry. Okay, but high. Ready to go. Gonna take him check for square. I've got a melon in case I need to knock anything together. I want you dark going something like this up. You've got to get the clamp on before the glue on the first joint starts to set so you can if you don't work all that fast. Do one pair the opposite side, sitting in place and then clamped that on. And once the glue cures on that side kept this side out, put your glue on and put it in place. Or, if you're fast enough, have everything laid out. Our practice. You could do all of it in one shop. You don't have to use high blue. You could use wood glue, morning fox ing whatever works for you. I like high glue because for one reason is if this first joint starts to set. Before I get ready, I could throw a little bit more on, and it will reactivate the glue that's there. Another nice thing about High blue is it doesn't interfere with it, finished the way other clues do. Well, I well remove all of the building from this before I finish it. It's not as critical as it would be if I was using Pocket is really bad or even, but what glue is more likely to interfere with a finished Dan? Hi Lou will. And if I come back in a little while, the glue will be gel not completely set, and in that steak it will be really easy to white ball and yet clean 9. Doors part 1: Now I'm going to build my doors with bottom. I'm using full overly door with this particular style of change. This particular hinge has 1/2 job. Really, you can't get hinges with. Moreover, lave you choose. I have a job related this. I have been really on that site. The total my doors were going to take up will be a full inch more than this inside opening this way I've got I want a little bit have been overly topping bottom. The bottom needs to be or the top excuse me needs to be low enough that it does not hit this dream piece when it goes back in place. And I don't want the bottom resting on this trim pieces that's going to rub. So 3/8 inch topping three inch bottom. Well, give me good clearance from those pieces. My opening is 34 9/16 added inch finish having their happens there, 35 9/16 before like this into because I got to doors to build, I'm going to subtract about eight inch for gap in the center. That will well for expansion and contraction of the door without binding 35 7/16 half of that 17. 23 30 seconds Takes a graduated generally in 16 stool do 17 and 11. 16th for each door. That way I've got 17 and Yeah, here you go. At three. Course total. 3838 Excuse me. 18 and 1/4. My top. I got 17 and you live in 16 wide by 18 and 1/4 height. One more thing to decide before I start making the door is how wide to make the Raylan styles doing a panel door. They have inch of overlay. I did a two inch wide that will dominate this cabinet. I don't want the doors to dominate this cabinet. I want everything to bit look well, So I'm going to go down to an Injun hair on my grill styles. I've got my own style bit for my matter, which will used to make those once I ripped to pieces to wit and cut a deal in which will be the next step. Okay, I've got a piece of one by for folk material. This is actually a bit wider. It's not a standard One by four I need 17. 11 16th. Why 18 quarter tall because it's going to be safer using the rela style router bit. If I don't try and work off of the one end all demonstrate that when I get to the router table, I'm going to cut these longer than I need for my toppings. Bottom. Additionally, those pieces actually be shorter than my total of it, because if this was a side coming up the top in the bottom, we're going to butt in the rail in style bitter set up so that it actually slides in a little bit, kind of like a mortise and tenon joint. So when you take off the sides less that I'm going. Teoh Onley need to make the top and bottom 15 and 1916 that I want a little bit of extra on that. So 15 in 9/16 cutting a little bit extra. If I were about 17 that will give me enough there. I can go ahead, lay out my marks for everything else did for the besides 18 and 1/4. So if I do not team owners so that will give me enough there, so 40 re you say I so 53. It's what that game 72. For my last week, I'll cut these two length on miter saw. Okay, here's my mark. My first cut to playing that up. Make my cuts since all of these cuts going pretty much look the same. I'm just going to show one here if you cut because I'm not a real to do this down. We got this bit set up. This is the one that cuts the outside of both my sights and top and bottom for the rail in style. The reason I cut this well, it's the bit spins this way. And when you get down to this in, it's going to want your catch and through it. But if I stay here, I can run all the way to the without with more control over my board. And when I'm done, I can cut off Yes, to length, and it makes the whole operation safer way you have gone a square mark to cut on one side past. Where I entered the 1st 1 doesn't have to be real precise because I've got knocked down here and I still need to Jim the other side down. Yet, after I cut this all major mark and cut my other side Precisely. - I've got my so set up with my feather board in place Could make my rip cut. Omae rips on one side, changed my feather board. They make my rips on the other side. - This is the other half of the rail and style pair. I'm using my miter gauge to help maintain control as I passed through and moving relatively slowly because that's going to minimize any tear out. Using the router bit, I placed a mark where I need to have the style setting when I start running through to maintain accuracy. 10. Doors part 2: okay, I've dry fit my doors together to check to make sure everything lines up like it's supposed to. Also, this is going to give me a chance to measure for that. Panels are putting in her. I'm going to be using quarter inch apply for my panels. There's a groove you can see here that it's going to rest into. That's going to add about 7/16 to the size of my panel on each side. I want to leave a little bit of room for it to float, so I'm not going to have quite seven eight. Which 7 16 plus 7 16 to my measurement. You've got 14 and recorders verify yet 14 3/4 15 half 15 hair, all that 78 and take about 16 off of that to allow the panel to float. This will allow for expansion and contraction of the wood through the changes in seasons. And that's my next step is to cut these panels. I changed the rip, played out for a play with Blade. I've got my fence set to make my long rip First I'll put on my respirator and eye protection and make this first cut. I can t adjustment on my fence for Okay, here are my doors dry fit. They're almost ready for glue up. I'm now going to pre finish the panels for these doors. The reason I'm pre finishing knees is Raylan style bit curtsy grew for the penalties like into as the wood moves with changes in temperature humidity. This will expand and contract just a little bit like this. If you don't pre finish when it expands, you're going to have a little bit of unfinished word exposed. And it's not going to look like a professional job. I'm using us. Feel lack to finish this out, I mix my own. You can buy pre mixed shellac, so this is the based. So I'm going to start with the back side. You want to be dust free before you do anything, Celek dries fast enough that I'll be able to put the finish on this, but the finish on the back of the other drawer panel. Then I'll be able to finish the front of £4 I can get two or three coats in 20 or 30 minutes when you finish with shellac. Nice long strokes off off the edge. You don't want to go back over your work much. You'll just wind up leaving brush drugs when you start dirt a little bit away from an edge and then moved back in yourself. Move back to the edge. Don't worry about any Mrs Butts right now. You going to do two or three coats anyway? Your 2nd 3rd coat will cover anything you miss here before I do my assembly. I will do a quick rub and wax, start away from the edge and then look over the edge. Particular Dilek I'm using has just a little bit of Garnett in it. In the bottle it looks or the dry mix it into. It looks fairly dark, but when I a plate and just leave a little bit of shellac, it's going to at a slight reddish tint to the finished project. But not a whole lot. One of the reasons I mix my own is I like to work with barely then referred to as a pound cut, so called because to make a £1 cut, you will So £1 of Jill Econ one gallon of alcohol. I don't mix up that much of the time so. But that's about the ratio I use. Sometimes I'll go a pound and 1/2 or £2 cut, but I very seldom go with anything beyond a £2 cut. Shellac will build so each successive coat dissolves a little bit of previous coat, which means that when you're finished rubbing everything out or French polishing and you wind up with essentially one coat, but you get better results if you apply several thin coats. Then if you try and put one heavy coat on, I'll do this same thing a couple more times to, uh, build a little bit more finished and cover any bare spots. Then I will with my doors up and let that set overnight before I finish them out. The final step for the pre finish of my panels before blew up. If you run your hand over, you feel what it referred to. His dust Nibs got a piece of 2 20 sandy film lately. Smooth those dusting himself off. I put just enough to lack on here. That surface is starting to get a little shine. - The facts I I'm going to example for uniformity, but I'm not going to Polish this up. Just wanted to seal the wood front side is going to get a little bit of polish on it. Once the dust niche knocked down, I will finish out with the police is what they road, do you like, wrote It's similar to a French Polish. I just got piece of old cotton T shirt. Any let free cotton cloth will work. You want a relatively smooth surface. What you're going to do is put a little bit official act using on that, and they drug so of oil for lubrication. I likely see oil, but there are people who use different oil. You just rub it out, look at the finish and you'll be able to see you need to have more shellac. You don't need very much oil, so you could probably do both of these panels with the amount of oil I got on here. But if it feels like the cloth is starting to stick, do the surface. It's time to put it another little bit of oil on go strictly circular the whole way, or you can hand back in sports along the grain. Don't want to go against the grain like this. If you have anything on your cloth that's going to scratch that will show up going with the grain, it will stay hidden in the pattern of the brain. All I'm looking to do here is make a nice even showing a full French polish will bring this to a mirror shine. But I don't want a mirror shine on the door panels, so I'm just looking to even things out a little bit. Once you've used rubber for a while, it'll take less. Relax, no one a poorest would like. Oh, it's going to take a little bit more work to get a good finish. Didn't would on any non force would like, make both. I'm just going to keep doing this until I get a finish. Our enjoy. Then I'll glue everything up 11. Doors part 3: I got my panel free finished at least enough that any movement in the panel will not be visible with a lying twin. It shrinks, but the size of frame, like loose, hot and ready to go. My sides are ready. I set the penalty in one long side, and I have my clamps before adjusted for. So I'm ready for my glue by placing the panel one side first, going to make it easier you slip. The other piece is here, but a little blue joint Police. If you're not confident of your ability to get group at all four corners and everything plan together before its first to set up. You can do one side. Let it dry and come back and do your other sorry for clamp everything down. I want to make sure where this isn't square. It's going because a lot of problems later square that's less than a 16 out place before I move on to this for on to the next step before drove my holes for hinges going to sand. What my really styles Sandy done need laid out What? My hinges go instructions that come with the hinges give you placement as well as the diameter hole to drill, he said. 35 millimeter, which is really close to ancient, creates. I'll be using an ancient three eights portion a bit to drill my holes tells you an eight inch from the side and 1/5 went down when fit at 18.5. It's real. Closed 3.5, so bringing a hand three. Here got an engine. 3/8 just 11 eight of an inch, half of 11 8 says he 11 16th Coming in eight inch from the end and going you an additional 11 16 over is going to mark the central point of my life. My goal. Press it up with my fortune, orbit like up on my mark and drill my whole for a cold. - The other door. It's drilled the same way with holes drilled. Quit the hinges on the door before I go and my holes for the carcass, your wine, this decision up. So it's it's even you bit overhangs a little bit. That's okay. It was a little bit back. That's pretty so long as you're spacing is correct. No centering party drill within appropriately sized big hole, - but one group in birth that hold hinge in place. So you know your other holes line up when you're punching. Drill it. No. With my in just set in here, I'm ready to install the door. But right now I'm just going to put doors in place. I'm going to worry about adjusting them after taking him off and have put the finish on them in a murder to put it back off. To make it easier, I've got a spacer on the bottom which will hold this at the appropriate height. The first step, it's always is to Mark. But you've got a hole here. That problem so myself. Centering punch is not going to line up really well. If you're confident in your abilities, you can hold in place. Thank you. Drill. Endure your whole like that. If not, when will I get a pencil? As I was saying, if you're not so confident in your ability to pull everything, take so Greece around inside of where your opening is, you can take a bunch. My centering punch off with the point out. Then you have a spot too. Drill your whole when you have your whole drill polls grill. Okay, - screws in and on the instructions. It tells you you get a through here and through here for adjustment. You can also adjust up and down a little bit. Here, these move the door this way and this way. So this is a completely adjustable hinge. I'm not going to worry about that now. We'll do that. After I get everything together. The other door goes up. The same is this one. Before I call my doors complete, I'm going to wrap a little decorative element to soften this corner here. I'm just going with the very small round over, using a handheld router, handheld router, whole round of this direction. So I run it against that. Gives me more control. The downside is at this corner is going to want to chip out as I go around here. All start here, back up here and then I'll go around this way catching. Decided the far side before I moved to turn night door to catch the site, decide 12. Pull-out Shelf support framework part 1: now I'm very to start building the framework would pull out shelf going to have a peace that runs this site in this site and across the back. Do you support the drawer? I'm going to use little angles, too. Work pieces on the side and I'll, uh, make a mortise and tenon joints between both in the piece on the back. The pieces on this side are what I'm going to attach my drawer runners to. That's going to love it or to flight in and out. I got cable so set up to ripped with Save your my ear plugs are already here, and I will rip this piece to wit. - Now with the miter cell, I'll cut toe length. I've got enough length on this to get both pieces out of it. Previously, this was the drop from a previous peace. So my first step is going to make sure I have a good square end on one side and I'm going to remove thes so curves in the process. Well, you saw me measure the distance that need front to back. I'm going to show you more accurately transformation mints when you take a measurement tape reading to the nearest line. Or sometimes you may split in between two lines. If they're using this standard, take that has 16th inch gradations on it. Closest your going to get is a 32nd of an inch. And while this will work for a lot of stuff and would work just fine here if you get into visible corners, you may need to be precise. So if you take online your piece, you could mark exactly where it goes. Back to the miter. Salt You cut for length. I could Sick. He's on, and I'm flush to the edge. Put my screaming and call it good. But I'm going to demonstrate how to mortis out for a brace. Good morning. Stout for a chisel. Same way I've got Hey, chisel. It's the same that market knives. Pencil. Okay. Hey, Mallet. First step, Mr Matt layout, I'm going to set inside edge of the outer ones. Yeah, two inches in and I'm going to center one in the middle. These are half inch wide. Sinner. This is the center point. Go back 1/4 inch and forward 1/4. If you don't have Arkin eyes, you can lay these out with a pencil. Pencils not white as precise. If you want greater precision, use a market knife. It's sharpened with single bevel. They do make them that are sharpened with two devils. These are starting with a single bevel. What you do is let your piece in position but flat edge up against your work. And instead of having a pencil work, you've got a small group. Do you have 21 from either side is so that you can cooked your edge on which side you want . The flat piece to the outside of the Bible to be after you get your lines laid out when you take a chisel. Did you hold it an angle to the work and just inside he is going to move a small bit of material up to you're lying. Reason for that is you said you just look in. If you he pushed down, it's going to compress the fibers on this site is gonna try and push the chisel. This wife this gives you some place for that devil set. So when you cook your pieces, I think so. It's going to strict in and get accurate. Mark. Okay, just that edge, which is, if you use a marking knife, start right there. If you use a pencil line, you need to cut your fibers here first. So you're going to be making your first cut like this did you'll come back and make yourself a little spot for your chisel to rest before you're right. You're just like that. I like to start from the mortar, sing out by movie a little bit off the outside edge you can on your sizzle here or your chisel like this. You're going to get slightly different results. You hear? It's easy to moving your sizzle for the back down the cutting head drop back down you deep into some things that's less of an issue. Your final touch up final will be using it as a pairing. Okay, just like that. But this that will give you a nice flat surface for your hinge. Or, in this case, brace resting. I don't have to go very deep, but I do need to go in this. So oh, take another pass when you work inside like this, both sides to get all the way down into both corners. Okay, work this out with a router. But if you only have a few two or three when you're first starting now for maybe when you're more experienced, you'll be able to do a couple of these as fast as you can get the router set up. Even if you choose to use the router that's going to leave your corners that you'll need to square up. If you I don't have the control or do this all back here, you can do it. Dear Frank. You see the mallet versus using deeper. Or do that. I want things up. Make sure there's not just a single I point this. Keeping it up really does look a whole lot better if your hardware truly sits flush and not below the surface on this side and a little bit to say, it also looks like a little bit for the high stock right there, flesh all the way across its flush with this back edge. That one's good mortis is complete. I'm ready to put brackets on this piece. I'm going to use a self centering punch to mark where I need to drill a pilot hole. All right, screws aren't just about half what's sticking out of my little bit for my but on the job it from my gel for the pilot hole. That's a convenient mark for me. If you need to use a piece of take two mark your depth or stop color. Do so. I'm using an impact driver to put my screws in. You can use it drill. You can also use a handheld screwdriver. 13. Pull-out Shelf support framework part 2: I'm going to put my side pieces on temporarily that will allow me to take good measurements before my race across the back. I need this to sit level so I decide and front to back a level will allow me to run. It's like decide and since everything is made the same, I'll be able to put a mark you to the front or the back. Do you get me level scientist side? So my first step is to get a good measurement here at the height. I want either the top or the bottom of this race piece. I'm going to go with the top now. I will clean this piece even to my mark putting my mark back here. It's something that I don't have to worry about later because it will never be in a place. It's visible. No, I will level position right and with my race Rick in position, that can put works where I need to drill pilot holes. It's a great place here. You really need to be careful. You don't drill a way through. If you drill all the way through, you're going to have a whole on visible side of your carpets that need to be filled later. Yeah. Okay. Out of the way. Take a measurement across here. I've got 34 by eight. That's the distance from the inside of this. Breaks to the inside of this breaks. I want to be a little bit longer than that on the piece that I cut because I'm going to be putting what? Isn't Timmons in here on either side? Since I'm just over and pinch about Incheon 1/4 with on here, I could do theoretically, up to an inch and 1/4. But a half inch will be sufficient to allow this to walk into a place nice and strong. Having John the site having John, that's I I'm an inch total 35 5 eights. I have a drop here from me. Previous project that is a suitable size for breaks along the back. I got a mark for my cut. I have a table salt set up. Do you cut Canada? When you're cutting with you're miter gauge. You are supposed to do up against the fence. It increases the risk of kickback. So solution is to put walk. You're going to clear by the time you make contact with the plane this way you set your distance, you get at the same distance from the end on all four sides without riskiness Uh, kickback. So I'm going to already got things set. I'm going to get my safety gear and make my cuts going to use my drop press two. We moved most of the waste ground mortis. I've got a quarter inch forcing a bit and I clamped a board to ago pressed able to act as offense to keep my fish position correct. Got my depth set up. Would you go as deep as I need? No clean up sites in the corners with a mortise chisel. What of? Get in there with whiter chisel. Do some final, you know should occasionally check fit corners are the most difficult place clean out adequately point that they've Actually, they actually make Morrison channel chisels specifically designed What? Two pretty decent fit. Okay, Blew up. Tended. Put a little glue in the mortise together. Clamp on here cramping ice. We dry and put with spring work into the carcass with the glue on the framework dry. I'm now ready to put a little bit of flu on here and permanently catch this. So A. It's, uh, most of the holding power from this is going to come from this cruise before the blue starts to sit up on the other side. I'll give that a chance to try and put my door slight on the least half of the carcass half on in place there. 14. Pull-out Shelf part 1: now. Maybe you could put the door slides in place. These are apart with a de el for drawer left and D are for drawer. Right? This is the right side. And see Ellen CR for cabinet or carcass. Right? And left sides. The Joe who would sit on this ledge. I haven't got that major cut yet. Right now, I'm just putting the carcass site on. I've got a walk would sitting here that's going hold it in place so I can my mark if you're going with an insect door, I want this to be behind where the door closes. Since I'm going with overlay door, I'm sitting next just about that directions. They just, uh, 16th or so behind front edge way with this falling right into the old tenor for this wind up putting another screwed here. I'm also going to have a couple of screws in the back. These air ending just a little bit. Do allow the head of the screw. Do you sit flush so it does not interfere with the mechanism of the drawer slide holding in strict putting one in the back. The ones I put on the inside where I'm going to be sitting in front of the camera, so I'll have to work. I'm not going to show that they go in the same way. Market centre, drill a pilot hole, but you screw it back. You can see the slide drops down a little bit in the back. When did other side comes in is going to come down a little bit gravity Wilbur, and help hold the drawer. In this case, shelf in place for the shelf. This size is an inch narrower. And from here to here, you lose 1/2 inch for this door slide and happy for this door slide that is 34 7 16 So, me, 33 7 16 Why for depth goes theoretically, I could go all the way back to back brakes in the front page of this, but would moves with weather so this could result in problems with door closing. I'm going to make this. You got 16.5 all the way back to front. If I go 16 that would give it 1/2 inch of room that just inside a little bit just inside and still be off of back. I've got a piece of open your apply that I'm going to use for the shelf. I'm ready to cut that. You cut the plywood for the pullout shelf when using for the first cut a straight edge with a circular saw. I got my plywood clamped the table so it doesn't move. After the first cut, I'm going to move over to the table. So my table of my cable set is not white enough to make this cut, but it is white enough to rip it down. I got my table saw set up to rip this toe wit. I'm going 15 and 13 16th to defense because I'm going to place on the front edge piece of a bit of board, Have a dado in it. But I'm going to go above in a little below the shelf patrol act as a lift you can pull the shelf out with. Since my shelf is going to be a pull up shelf, I'm going to put so narrow site around it so that anything on the show is this likely to fall off In addition to the brook peace and greater set up as the pole from peace and going to cut first. I'm in Incheon eight wide, using pieces of one of the old drawers. Do you conserve materials at the It's going to be narrower insides and back out, Cut angles on decides to bring the anaemic look good. I'm going to go with an inch and 1/2 for the majority of sides and back. I'm going to cut the Daito from pizza table. Saw if I had a NATO stack and confuse that is I've got just a single blade. Make a pass my saw. Remove my fits. Make a pass on. I'll sneak up on it as I get close. Make smaller, smaller adjustments so I could get a good type. It subsequent passes air going to look the same as what you just soft and I myself played set up. Do you cut my rabbit? Rabbit is like data data falls in the middle of a board more. A rabbit is on the edge. I'm going to do this by making pass here and along two sides. The front is getting covered by that, so it's not getting a rabbit did I will turn. We set myself bleed and make a pass like that I saw it is set up going to be running the street. You out here They do make digs specifically to hole pieces like this up with practice. It's relatively simple to keep this against the saw she passed over. No, if you feel uncomfortable that you can make several passes thes last cash to make you do that. Don't saw blade right up against the event. You're going to be just a little bit off of descend. That's easy to clean up with. A chisel or utility knife. I'm going to I have my side, Don't you? This way that will make a stronger joint as the forces here are going to be more this way. You're not gonna have a lot of forces out this way going to life this up front, make a mark. Also going to go ahead and make it work here. Going to cut at an angle this before I do that. When you cut transfer this mark, do the top surface good of my miter saw too, Mark. Yeah. Rather than try and hold everything in place, I know I'm going to be this gonna have taken way. This, like both of these So I'm going to set this up here. Use that to figure my weight and make more transferring it to the top. All right. Don't want a lot of the side pieces sticking up over the top of the front like this. The market made. First, it's in place. I'm going to transfer you talk. Make sure no. Is there? It is Same on this side. Can't for this mark to the top on what I don't want. You just run strict down and cut everything down to that. Hi. I want the back to be a little bit color because that is where when you pull out, things are going to want to fight against. I don't need it to run all the way there. There there's gonna be so angle in here that's going to be visually pleasing when this gets pulled out. What I find usually pleasing you may not what I'm going to do, then, going to make a more make sure that that because I want the right left side to match, I want to make sure I've got something that's going to be easy to transfer Mark to the other side. That 5.5 will make have you right close to what I think looks good and be easy to transfer 15. Pull-out Shelf part 2: Why would that I cut with it? Doesn't matter. So long past you can place Player would here. Just trying to hold this in place is not going to be safe. So I'm going to use double sided tape. Do you hold my board in place? Take But have is I bought for holding small pieces. Avoid to a face plate will turn. It holds real well for that. And I'm not gonna be putting near the stress on it that I would attorney. So I know this is going to work just lying up. I like the edge of that board. Press it in play to do a Dow joint. You can do it with other joints, but I'm going to go with what's referred to is the butt joint whole Brent, uh, pin del pen through here on the front. I'm going to go in from the front and Duthie site here. My dowel of choice, given the thinness of this material is a toothpick. I already got a job. It set up in my drill press so that I can make my first holes and know that they're going to be square to my work that way. I don't wind up coming out sideways when I run my pin through. I have a combination square set up for half the depth here. I use this to mark for in from edges. I need to be. And don't major with tape account for from the start. I want to be at an inch and 1/2. I'm going to go 5/16 in from the edges in that are the marked for those ends. All mark the rest and start to drill all my hopes with all of my months made Well, Joe, my holes, my whole glue talk. My three Joel holes are ready to go have a role of cramping material here. Both the newness painter's tape. I've got a thinner rule for those sides. I got my first piece ready to go, so Oh, playing my blue for that with that place set up for my skins. - This is one of the things I like about. Like, this will provide efficient pressure, Wealthy glued to hold the piece. If I was using blue, I would be wanting to clamp this with something a little bit stronger than tape. Okay, Well, let that cure, then I'll come back and put my pins in place With the glue set and tape removed, I'm ready to put play Dallas in place. The first thing they need to do is to doing the whole, - since I said I'm using toothpicks for my Dallas hands to fix are taper down to a point that Taper is an area that's not going to be working to hold everything together. So and removing point of my teeth picks first. You don't have to take all the broth, and you even a little bit can help DI into the whole. But you should most of it off pretty in the Dell and is very simple. You want a little bit of blue on the end. I just I didn't know the whole you can tap it with a hammer or mallet. Move the access. It doesn't kind of white, perfectly flush. So after I get all of these in, I'm going to go back over with. I'm going to go over the whole thing with Sander to remove all of the Nibs before I put all of doesn't place. I'm now ready to saying this step. Having sanded the shelf, Teoh, take all of the rough points down and the pins I just put in. I'm ready to put the door slides online. I got this set up so that the front of my slide should line up with the front of the show and see with this lip here, it's not going to go in without some modification. Things I could do. I could cut off a little piece of shelf here that could cut out a slot for this to fit into where I could cooked a little tab off of the shelf. Slight. Getting it have off the shelf slide is going to put the entirety of the slide behind here and is what's going to look the best. So that's what I'm going to do. Line up the front there and I will cook down that line and the same on the other side. I got the slide. I'm going to modify, got Mark. I've taken and put a piece of scrap wood in here so that I'm supported close to my mark. And when I went down in the vice going to distort my slut, I don't want to move the entirety across there. Just this little tab That's going to be where things I was going to be in the way block on the other side so I don't wreck my Buysse now. I cut down the way to do the work for you. Slice. I notice it got two holes that are oblong. You can use those if you need to. If you're going to need to make adjustments to where the slight sits. Since I've got mine set up for the site, is that all the way against this edge and other way forward here? I don't need that. I've got four screws and four holes that counter sunk, so I'll take myself centric punch mark where all goes, What allowing me? It's all the other screams. Yeah, that's like the same way. 16. Last details: I got to cover the front edge of this piece of plywood here. This is a piece of hope that trimmed down off of another project. It's just a little bit bigger then this is I could with this there, but people pull off, going to be people would move anything from, like, catch at, trim this down birthing. I'm going to do that. End square will come back and measure and Mark did this side and cut this end off. I'm ready to rip this piece down. It's cut to length, and I'll be able to attached that. You've got this piece of hope that I'm going to use to face here. A lot of people on something that's just decorative like this will strictly glue it in place and call it good. I don't like relying on just Did he see for anything you can use tax. You could use yells. You couldn't rely on just glue, and it will hold for a while. Eventually, glue will fail. Annual somebody will wind up having to re glue it. Since I have a no gun that shoots 18 gauge Brad's, that's what I'm going to be using all this book 45 along there after I glue it in place. - Now put these pieces back in place. If you forgot which side came up where, Jim speaking, you'll be able to line up the old screw holes. No where you put each side. This is a very simple matter of just wouldn't Fresh glue for here, a little bit of group here, you'll be able to tell where it goes, probably from works on there, or just go around holes reattaching screws on the on the short side. It's easy enough to put it in place, perhaps the screws in, but alongside there you start his truth. You make sure you got in the correct holes before you spread your gloom because the glue is going to start. May start to set up before you get things lined up. You want to make sure you get glue all the way out to the end so it will hold it in place. It doesn't take a look of glue and lose just a little bit more assurance over. Screw. - The last thing I need to do before I move on to the finishing step. Mr. Put Back on this the original back had been a tempered hardboard. You could go with tempered hardboard. If the back is in good shape, you could we use it. You could go with a plant. Would I happen to have a sheet of Kimber hardboard on hand? J a partial sheet. It's already been, had some pieces cut off of it. So I'm going to replace the old back with new of the same material dimensions I need for the back major something? Yes, you're 38. You want to make sure top Middle in here. 38 3 16 16 bigger sites bow out just a little bit back to 38 8 year top to bottom the sights and back a rabid so it's gonna be slightly recessed. I'm going to measure to the but here got 26 and 78 here 26 just a little tiny bit over 78 here in 26 78 in the middle. Since I didn't do a lot of disassembling on this, I'm not too worried about it being out of square. If you're building something new, or if you had to do a lot more work I've done here, you'll want to check for square Major your diagonals. Make sure there's a major the same. I mean cutting something this thin and flexible. It's wise to have it supported on well, underneath. I've got some pieces of one by a few places under fear, so that I'm supporting directly under my cut. That will help make a better cut. Also, I'm not cutting to size just yet. Kind of a little bit big. Then I'll be able to Clinton my work to my bench and have just a little bit that I need to trim off, which will make for a better cut for they start milling in place. I'm going to make some parts on either in where braces across the background. This way I can, right? If you text in, there is well to attach the back. I'm going to be using wire nails. 3/4 inch in length, 18 gates diameter. Have a tack camera. This being here serves a purpose with a nail. This short, you're going to wind up smashing your fingers a lot when you start when you're starting them. But if you hold the nail between your fingers like this, your fingers will guide that wedge into the head of the nail without slamming your fingers . That thought like this up he started, - and I'll just go on around. Sometimes you'll find you'll hit, you'll run across something hard and NL will bend like happened here. There's someone in much easier you good. Pull it out If it before out you can If it bent over and drove in solidly, You can't just, uh, leave it sitting there and drive it flush. Do run across here Smart thing is to take a straight edge or a chalk line on your marks all the way Once I get held in place I've got a straight in Chandi all used up to make a mark all the way across So I can so I don't wind up driving a nail through the middle somewhere and having an elf or a hole in the back Cove. My cat 17. Final thoughts: in conclusion, you now seeing me create the new parts happen idea as to how to go about making or repairing what you have for your project. I'm going to encourage you once again to upload a picture of what you're working on. But before you started making the new parts and after the parts are complete to the project section of this class, keep an eye open for the next class in the Siri's, which will be the final class on finishing the project. Thank you for watching.