Transcripts
1. Introduction to Epoxy Resin: Hello and welcome
to this course, the Introduction to resonance, where we not only take you to the basics of what resin is, what are the precautions
that you should take, the ingredients that you need. But also take you through a step-by-step tutorial of creating your very first
rather than art piece. Resonate has gained
extreme popularity in the last few years with
people across the globe in several industries and
households using it to create either simple beginner
level items like Costas, jewelry, or even complex things like furniture,
wall, our detector. There are two reasons
that I absolutely loved. Resin. Resin is a great choice if you want to preserve items attached to a particular memory of
Florida from a special date, a letter from a loved one. Anything that holds
great importance to you can be stored in Dresden
and reserved forever. Secondly, resin is in liquid consistency
while you create art. And the unstructured
flow of creating is very relaxing and
therapeutic for the mind. But before we go any further, let's cover the basics. What exactly is resin? Epoxy resin is a
two-part solution consisting of one part of the resin and the other
being the hardness. Ratios usually differ. But then mentioned on the Gundy and note of the
brand that you buy. When these two parts are mixed, a chemical reaction takes place in which
they fuse together to create something
that resembles plastic and translate glass. Once the mixed resin has
got cured completely, you get a highly
durable material that happens to be
extremely versatile, very easy to use, able to withstand
extreme heat and cold, and also can be sanded
and grilled if needed. Are you excited about creating your first as an art piece?
2. All the Ingredients you need: While there are many ways
in which you can use resin, we will be focusing on how
to create resin flawed. As a big knock, I do not like to invest a lot of
money while starting of the ingredients
I will share with you today will not
only be inexpensive, but a lot of them could be found in and around
the household. Is a list of all the essentials you need to get started with
the audit boxy journey. Measurement matters a lot while
dealing with epoxy resin. Inaccurately measured, resonant hard enough
will not cure. It's very important to be
exact and avoid guesstimating. I like to use a measuring scale simply because I have
an easily available. You can also use a plastic or a glass cup with the
measuring scale on it. It's no surprise that one of the key ingredients for epoxy resin is the
resin and the heart. Now, there are a variety
of brands out there. And you can choose the ones
which are made for art, which do not yellow. And of course that affordable. All epoxy comes in two parts. The epoxy and the hardener. Both must be mixed in the ratio mentioned
on the container. Before you start
creating your design. A number of mixing
jars you need will depend on the number of
pigments that you plan to use. Lazy people like me
who don't like to wash their GFS can use recyclable
or disposable ones where others who wanted to use
multi-use cups can also go for TIG plastic ones and glass ones that can be
wiped down and used again. Again, you'll need status to mix the epoxy and hard not to
mix the pigments as well. The amount you will
need will depend on the number of colors
you intend to use. The size of this turtle. It depends on the amount
of epoxy you are using. Basic or stores jewelry, etc. You can use a
simple flat starter for the effective studying. Or even inexpensive study was like ice cream
sticks can do the job. In its liquid form resonance, very sticky and gloves help to protect your
hands from a mess, as well as possible
skill irritation. Simple nitrile latex gloves, easily available at
the medical store. Hardware store is
the best choice. Not only are they strong, but they're very inexpensive and comfortable to work with. Now it comes to selecting
the base you want to use. Depending on how
you use your resin, the base can vary. You could be using
a mall to sculpt your reason into a
particular shape. Or you may be boring the
medium onto your canvas. As a big no. The easiest to work
with a silicon Morris, you'll make less mistakes. And secondly, you can reuse
the same word several times, reducing the cost per unit compared to a wooden
base or a canvas. For our tutorial, we
will be making goals does using silicon Moore's
with uneven edges. Now this is where
the fun begins. You can add several
pigments, dried flowers, decorative items, or even
something you want to preserve. Any other boxy
pigments had available from many sources and give different effect
to the final result. They can be found in
two primary forms, liquid and powder
begins. As a big null. Feel free to experiment
even with acrylic colors. Valid, we will be using liquid resin pigment
for our tutorial. It not only gives a very
opaque consistency, but it's also very
easy to work with. We're also going to be
using golden crushed foil, which looks beautiful and
John, in transparent epoxy. Now this is a personal hack, but a super-useful ingredient if you're using silicon moles. Because epoxy is transparent, it can catch onto the
minutest particle of dust, which could be seen
in your final design. To avoid any dust,
dirt particles. I cleaned the molds with water, then let them dry. After which I use a
scotch tape to stick any unwanted dust
particles to the deep. It might sound weird. But when you look at the day, the amount of dust particles accumulated make utilize
it as super effective. Now this may sound like
an ingredient you want to skip or you don't really see
the reason to invest in it. But trust me, it
changes the game. Is very useful. If you want to have a
smooth and clear piece with minimal to no bubbles. Even though there
are other ways to remove bubbles from
your board resin, such as using a toothpick. But this is very
time consuming and the end result will not be
as clear as using a torch, no matter how hard you tried. My advice, definitely
invest in a basic torch. Now this step, you can skip, but I would recommend
highly against it. Once the boxes cured
and your pieces ready, you can provide some
finishing by outlining the edges using a marker which is available
in several colors. Or you can also use
echolalic beans, although the finishing
can be a little messy. There you go. That's all the ingredients you need to start your
epoxy journey. They're all in budget, inexpensive, and not
a lot of investment. Now that we know all the
ingredients we need, Let's get on to creating
our very first epoxy piece.
3. Mixing The Resin and Hardener: Let's begin with step one, which is preparing
the epoxy mix. Before you start,
ensure that you wear your gloves with the amount of times I have repeated
talking about this step, you might have understood
its importance. Epoxy is extremely sticky
and difficult to get off, sometimes causing skin
in addition stool. So no matter how small your project is or
how careful you are, always wear gloves
before you start. Now let's get to mixing
your resonant hard enough. The proportions of the resonant
hardener that you must mix will depend entirely on
the ones that you purchase. Each product is produced
differently and may require vastly
different ratios. Read the container
before starting out. Depending on what you're
planning to make. The amount of resin you
will need will vary. You can use several calculators to measure the
amount of resin you would meet based on the
measurements of the base. The tutorial today,
the boxy that I'm using is to be mixed in a
ratio of two is to one. I'm taking 30 grams of epoxy and so 15
grams of the heart. Now, you can use the
same amount of epoxy. If your costs are measurements
are the same as mine. Again, you can always add
more mixture if needed. But after mixing the heart model epoxy
will start to cure. You cannot add the mixture
back into the container. So to avoid wastage, I prefer to go with
my minimum estimate of the amount of
epoxy amide need. Again needed, I can
add some later. Let's bring out our wing skills. Before you start, ensure that your weighing
scale is set at 0. Then account for the weight of the empty cup before
you add the boxy. Slowly first add the boxy, then the hard now on top of it, it and mix the boxy
well with the heart. Now, don't start too hard as it can create too many bubbles
introduced clarity, although we will take care
of it towards the end. Now, based on the number of pigments or glitter foil
that you want to add, you will have to split the box
into different containers. For this tutorial, we will need to split it into
two different parts. Two different mixing cups. I prefer using these
disposable ones. Now you can split them mixture equally into two containers. For this split, you can
use a rough approximation. You do not need to be precise, will have to measure it
again on the wing scale. But do this very
carefully and do not rush to avoid spillage
and sticky containers. Now that our boxes mixed and separated into the number
of colors we want to add. Let's get to the fun part.
4. Adding Pigments: In this tutorial, we're making posters that are
transparent with gold foil on one side and a highly pigmented
white on the other. The different pigments may
have certain instructions. So be sure to check for any important information
before adding. Some pigments become completely
opaque after curing. Some tone, a little
translucent, 11, and some even change
their color Waldo curing. More on this in upcoming
excited tutorials. Currently, the pigment that I'm using is a liquid pigment, especially for epoxy at this needs a very tiny amount
and will last you forever. Doesn't create
investment as well. Dec. Only a bunch
of the color on your stomata and add
it to the boxy mix. Mix it well to leave see the color has blended
homogeneously. The next thing we need. And also my favorite
ingredient that I love using an online Epoxy
projects golden foil. To avoid any golden foil
sticking to my glove, I will be adding it
using a tweezer. Back up just a little amount
and mix it with the boxy. Once you add it,
you'll see it'll start breaking itself in the epoxy. But you need to blend
it in well till all of the golden foil is spread
evenly in the transparent mix. We're now ready to create
our coastal designs.
5. Ensuring our coasters are Extra Clean: Are you ready for
your next step, which is creating
your cluster designs. Once you have mixed
and added the colors, you are now ready to pour
the mixture into a Costco. But before that, we
need to ensure that the coasters we use
are completely clean. You can wash it with
water and let it dry. But to satisfy my OCD, I ensure that I not only leaned my Coasters with water
than with a dowel, but also to be a 100% sure that there
are no dust and dirt particles which may not be visible but can show
up on the Johns. But inside of my inbox, I take a white
scotch tape and with the sticky side started to
press it on my co-stars. Press it and then remove, repeat the steps
five to seven times on each course though. This helps to remove
the minute is dust particles which may not have been visible
to the naked eye. You might want to
skip this step, but I highly recommend against it because I have seen
the results of this.
6. Creating your Coaster Designs: Now that our Costas
are speaking span, we take the boxy mixtures one-by-one and
start boarding them into the course
does to start off, get a rough estimate of where the center of
your course studies. Now take the white
mixture and slowly start pouring it
on 1.5 of the cost of ensuring that you're covering all the edges
and evenly distribute it. You can also use the starter to spread it in all
of the uneven edges. Once you've covered half the
site with the white epoxy, repeat the same step with
the golden foil mixture. Gently covering the remaining
half of the course. Broad tip is to try and avoid
too much overlap to have to clearly define tides in
your course does also, for very gently making
sure that the epoxy does not overflow or
untidy your design.
7. Blending the Epoxy Mix: After pouring the epoxy
across the costal, you'll want to match
the two pigments, but only in the center. All the LEA wonder goes to us
to have two distinct sites. We also wanted to look blended. I'm putting to look effortless. Also because this is floor. We will let the epoxy
mix into each other, guiding it with the
help of first truck. Now keep the straw at an approximately two
finger distance from the course staff and
gently blow into it. Navigating the liquid a box in the direction you
want to do float. The straw will help focus all the air at one
particular point, streamlining it and ensuring that all the proxy does
not mix with each other. You can also take a store
and make gentle waves are smaller circles in the
middle of the course TO connect the two pigments. The best part about epoxy is that there are
no strict rules. And the more you experiment, the better you get at it. Let the epoxy flow naturally, give it a few strokes, and let the magic happen.
8. Removing Air Bubbles: But before we leave
our epoxy to cure, we want out of box C to be even, and so we need to ensure that
there are no air bubbles. Now you can do this
manually using a toothpick, which I personally do
not recommend as it takes a lot of
diamond effort and is not useful in popping the smaller bubbles which could still make the coastal uneven. I prefer using a blowtorch, which is far more efficient. Simply take a butane blowtorch, which you can get easily at a local hardware store
in on Amazon and hover it over the
course does with a minimum palms distance to
ensure that your goals does, do not heat up or catch fire. Now this step adds a huge difference in the
finishing of the final output.
9. Unmolding the Coasters: Now we're at this step, which I'm sure you're
most excited about. The final reveal of the course. Once your course does
have been cured, it is very easy to get it off a silicone mold
without any issues. If you'll notice that the
resonance still bendable, then do not try to remove it. This could distort the
shape and leave you with a useless Costco
That is not flat. Simply start with peeling
it from one side. And if it comes off without
resistance, without bending, push it from all sides of the silicone mold and you will have your perfectly
shaped coasters.
10. Finishing touches with Outlining: Jocasta is actually now ready. The next step is
completely optional. However I feel outlining
the ghost does. It gives it a much
beautiful finish, makes it look a
lot more refined. And they look Market board. These scores does to
march the golden foil. We're using a golden metallic
marker for the outlining. But you can easily find these in several different colors or you can also use acrylic paints. Now take the pen, shake it a little to
ensure consistency in the flow and start to
outline on the edges. With angelic beings, however, you'll need to be a lot
more precise for it to be neat and not being
a very good artist, I personally find these much
easier, quick, passively. Once you're done
with the outlining, give the mockers
enough time to dry. And Jocasta is already.
11. The Final Reveal: Congratulations. You are now officially
and boxy artist. And your first art
piece is now ready. Let's take a moment
to appreciate it and give yourselves
a pat on the back. If you did follow the tutorial,
do share your course. Doesn't the comments for the
community to appreciate? Epoxy is very fun and
easy to work with and with the right
ingredients and instructions, very simple to navigate through. Now that you're aware
of the basic steps, you can experiment
with different colors, dried flowers, beads,
and guess what? Even photographs. Wait for more
tutorials on the same. See you next time. Thank you.
Tarana Chauhan, Your guide to Flow art Therapy
