Ceramics: Overglaze Painting | Mary LaBerge | Skillshare

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Ceramics: Overglaze Painting

teacher avatar Mary LaBerge, Inspiring Creativity

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

6 Lessons (22m)
    • 1. Snow Trees Session One

    • 2. Snow Trees Session Two

    • 3. Snow Trees Session Three

    • 4. Snow Trees Session Four

    • 5. Snow Trees Session Five

    • 6. Snow Trees Session Six

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About This Class

Learn to paint an easy snow scene using the on glaze painting technique and  a ceramic tile. On glaze painting or china painting adds another skill level  to artists who work with ceramics and want to add embellishments over top of ceramic glaze.

In this session, you will learn to paint a snowy evergreen tree with a simple snow scape and learn to use tools and techniques that can help ceramic artists paint over top of ceramic glazes. 

The Introduction describes possible uses for on glaze painting. Session Two visually describes the process of on glaze painting with examples. Session Three shows the tools you will need to get started. Session Four is a visual guide to mixing your painting. Session Five: Brush Maintenance. Session Six is a painting lesson tailored to anyone who wants to learn the basics of on-glaze painting.

Meet Your Teacher

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Mary LaBerge

Inspiring Creativity


Hello, I'm Mary Lou. I am a multi media artist. I create graphic design, paint, draw and write. You can find more information on my website at www.maryloulaberge.com or join me on Instagram at Mary Lou LaBerge.

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1. Snow Trees Session One: Hi. Welcome to this on glaze painting class where you are going to learn how to paint a simple snow scene like this example on a purchase. Porcelain tile Like this, using the on glaze painting technique in combination with an electric kiln. Paintings like these can be installed as murals or used this framed wall art. All of this work is fired in electric kiln. You are invited to learn more about the painting on glaze technique. By watching this class for this class, I've created a simple snow covered evergreen tree project that can be finished in one painting and killed firing session. You will learn about the supplies needed for this class. And there are pdf printouts available for supply sources for this technique as well as a recommended final project. Hi, I'm Mary Lou. I hope you enjoy this class. 2. Snow Trees Session Two: So what is on glaze? Painting ceramic clay biscuits covered with a white glaze and then fired in an electric kiln. When the pain is applied over top of the white ceramic glaze, this is called on glaze painting or china Painting. These two inch tiles are examples of China paint colors that I have tested. The stripes indicate the 1st 2nd third and fourth layers of paint. Each layer was fired in the kiln before painting the next layer. Notice how the intensity of the paint changes as the painting builds up over the firing process. This rose painting illustrates the process in more depth, just like the test tiles. Layers of china paint are painted onto the glaze surface. Then each layer is fired. An electric kiln. The technique is often referred to as a first fire, second fire and third fire. The heat bonds the paint to the glaze surface. China painters often fire their artworks two or three times, or sometimes more, depending on what they're trying to achieve. In this lesson, the scene on Lee needs to be fired. One time, this example of a more detailed snow scene required more layers of paint than a simple project like the snowy evergreen tree that you will learn to paint on this lesson. This example wasn't difficult to paint. It just required a couple additional layers of paint to achieve depth. In the next class, you will learn about the supplies needed. 3. Snow Trees Session Three: following is a review of supplies that you will need for this class. A purchased white glazed porcelain tile is used for this project. You could substitute a new or used porcelain item like a plate or face or cup instead of using a tile. For this project, you will need a number 10 flat shader brush. The brushes that you will use for this are sable or squirrel hair, which are good for oil painting. You will need a small stiff brush to push out snow on the evergreen tree. This brush has synthetic bristles. This is a clay shaper, which is available through sources that sell ceramic supplies. The's air Examples of the powdered paint that I use for this project paints can be purchased online. Ah, pdf file is available for you to print out with supplier details. Mineral oil is used to mix paint by mineral oil from a pharmacy. Brushed cleaning jars such as this one can be purchased from craft stores online or from local craft stores that carry painting supplies. Here is a top view of the jar. The metal wire scrubs the paint off your brush. You will need a breast cleaner for oil paint craft stores carry a liquid brush cleaner for oil paint. You can also use and no odor. Denatured alcohol. Use a wax crayon to pick up dust or fibers or brush hair that sometimes falls into your painting paper towels or let free rags. Such a sold cotton T shirts or cotton sheets. Air used for sculpting, paint, Sharpie markers or China markers are used for sketching and designs. These markers burn away in the kiln when used over the glaze. I am not sponsored by these companies. This wraps up the segment about supplies. See you at the next session. 4. Snow Trees Session Four: in this segment, you're going to learn how to mix China paint. China paint comes in these little glass or plastic vials. Pour a small amount of paint powder onto a smooth ceramic tile. Tighten the cap back onto the file. More than once, I've had messy clean ups because the cap was loose. I like to store mineral oil in these little dropper bottles. You can buy these at a pharmacy or reuse dropper bottles. You might have already drop a small amount of oil onto the powder. Using a palette knife, mixed the pain and oil. Using the dropper allows you to add oil is needed. Keep mixing the pain until it looks like the consistency of toothpaste. It's important to mix it thoroughly, making sure that all the particles are absorbed into the oil. Scooped the paint onto your palette knife and transfer the paint to your palate. I like to use a second palette knife to help move the paint onto the glass. These pallets can be purchased, or you can make your own with an airtight 10 or plastic container with the lid and place a tile on the inside to hold your paint. At this point, I would like to offer a few tips about paint keeping. Avoid leaving your mixed paint in a car. The extreme temperatures in an unattended car can cause the paint to pool or get runny. Pain last longer if you store the pain in a container with a tight fitting lid, there are covered metal pallets for this. Or you could use a metal 10 fitted with glass in the bottom when stored properly. This mixture last a long time. Keeping a lid on the paint prevents dust buildup on the paint. When dust and fibers fire out of the paint in the kiln, it can leave little specks on the painting. During the next session, we will learn to prep brushes. 5. Snow Trees Session Five: for cleaning brushes, you will need a jar brush cleaner for oil based paint, small dish for oil and a lint free cloth. Drops in mineral oil into a small dish. Swirl your brush around in the brush cleaner. Remove excess cleaner than press the brush between the layers of a lent free cloth. Press firmly Avoid pulling the bristles. Pressing ensures that bristles. Don't get damaged. Dress the brush in mineral oil and press the excess oil out of the brush. Now the brush is ready to use for painting. Store your brushes coated with mineral oil between painting sessions in the next session. Have fun painting. 6. Snow Trees Session Six: our first step in this painting is going to look like this example. The dotted line is applied with a Sharpie marker, which separates the snow in the sky. The upper third of the tile is painted grey, and the lower 2/3 is painted blue. Let's set this example aside and begin with a new tile. Begin by drawing a light dotted line that separates the snow and the sky. Not to worry, the market will burn off in electric kiln. We're going to load a flat number 10 brash with a little bit of gray, and then we're gonna go over here to the blue and add a little blue. Mix it together, get a little more grave. That should be enough. We're going to paint the grey blue sky. It'll kind of grade eight between gray and blue, as you'll see. Okay, so let's speed this along a little bit. - Load blue paint on your brush and began painting the snow area until the entire area is covered in blue. This color is celestial blue. Let's kick start this brush again. Well, let's start sculpting snowdrifts with a clean flat. Number 10 or larger brash began forming banks of snow wipe out the drift so that they look as if they are overlapping. Overlapping snowbanks are easier to shade later and add a realistic view to your snow scene . Periodically pressing the brush bristles flat on a lint free rag, removes some of the paint build up on the brush, which makes wiping out the snowdrifts easier. At this stage, we're loosely establishing the placement of snow banks in the following segment. We use these guidelines for shading the snow. One feature I Love About China pain is that it isn't permanent until kiln fired, weaken paint and repaint until we feel it is just right. Now we can shade snowdrifts with a clean and oiled number 10 or larger flat brush. Begin pulling the paint from the top of the snowbank towards the valley. Repeat the shading process until you have shaded each snowdrift. Painting multiple snowdrifts gives you the opportunity to practice your shading skill set as you shade paint builds up on your brush. Remove paint by pressing your brush flat on a lint free cloth Periodically. Every once in a while, you will need to clean and oil your brush to remove excess paint. Build up a word of caution. Don't hold your breast are over. The painting splatters will cause the pain to disperse an run when your brush is thoroughly clean, blotted out on a lint free cloth. Next, dip your brush into mineral oil and blot the excess oil out of the bristles. Now it's clean and ready for painting. You can also remove paint by wrapping a lint free cloth around your finger. We've finished painting snowdrifts. Turn the tile upside down. We're going to soften the horizon line between the snow and the sky. Carefully pull the paint downward with extremely soft strokes. Now we're ready for prancing reindeer. Now you're ready to paint a tree trunk. Load your flat, brash with rich brown or any brown that is available on your palate that looks like a good bark like color. Hold your brush with the bristles. Position vertically to the horizon line started the base of the tree and begin layering on the paint in a tapping motion. Reload your brush from time to time and continue tapping the pain until you reach the top of the trunk. Now that your tree trunk is finished, it's time to paint branches, load each corner of your brush with dark green paint. This technique is called side loading a brush. Sometimes only 1/4 is loaded, and sometimes both corners are loaded with paint. For the evergreen branches, you need paint on both corners of your brush. Names of dark greens I've used our darkest green and black green, starting at the upper part of the tree trunk, lightly tapped the brush forming the evergreen top. Next, paint the small branches by alternating corners on your brush. Noticed that some branches are painted on outward angles on the front of the tree, which gives a tree a three dimensional, realistic appearance. As you are painting the branches, they gradually become a little longer and a little thicker. Notice that some branches overlap. Previously painted branches overlapping gives the tree a three dimensional appearance. As the tree trunk grows upward, the branches grow in a circular pattern around the tree. A good time to study trees is during early morning hours or a desk drawing their branches and shapes with the pencil helps you get familiar with the structure of trees. Every so often, stop to load your brush with paint on the lower branches. Fill in the center of the tree with a bit more paint. The extra fullness gives you enough paint to form lush, snow covered branches. Later. Painting loosely formed branches is a fabulous way to practice painting evergreens. It is gratifying when the tree is filled with dense green spoilage. After we finished these lower branches, you're ready to cover them in snow. Using a smaller, clean, flat brush began pushing the dark green paint from the lower part of the branch to the top . Paint builds up on your brushes. You paint snow frequently blocked your brush on a lint free cloth. Remember to refrain from pulling on the brush. Bristles. Pulling on the bristles can cause damage to your brushes. Work your way down the evergreen by pushing snow upward under the previously painted branch painting snow. Using this method is forgiving. If you don't like the way a branch looks, you can rearrange the snow until it pleases. You. Paint some snow covered branches that point outward toward the viewer. These air typically shorter than the branches growing out of the sides of the tree. The evergreen will look more three dimensional and pleasing to the eye. If he vary the position of your branches. Snow at the upper part of the branch tends to be a little whiter than snow. At the tip of the branch on evergreen, snow builds up over multiple branches, hiding the individual branches underneath while painting. Sometimes branches start to fall in line with each other. Because it's so easy to concentrate on painting the snow and aligned branches go unnoticed . Also, try stepping back from your painting and observe the placement of your branch is correct the online branches by pushing the pain a little to the left or a little to the right, which will correct the location of your branch. Because each step in this part of the video is important towards building your knowledge about paintings. Noi branches, I decided against editing out too many frames or speeding up the video. The actual video time from painting the first knowing branch until completion of snowy branches is approximately three minutes. Leaving this part of the video unedited makes it easy for you to pause or reverse the lesson so that you can study each snowy branch while you were painting because we added plenty of green paint to the center of the tree earlier, it's much easier to paint lush, heavy, snow covered branches. Now this is one of my favorite areas on the tree to paint snow. It's time to paint the cash shadow beneath the tree. On your flat brush, mix a muddy mixture of pain. Using a little brown and a dab off blue at the base of the trunk, lightly brush the paint onto the snow. Painting cast shadows. Anchors objects toe one another. In this instance, the cash shadow anchors the tree to the snow before the pain is fired in an electric kiln. Repair any smudges. I smudged the paint in this lower corner. I'm just going to kind of feather it out. Okay, it looks good. Now you can sign and date your artwork by wiping out the paint with the clay shaper. Or use a small round brush and paint your signature onto the artwork. Signing and dating your artwork gives you and art historians reference points on the evolution of your painting style. Now that you've completed painting snowy branches, it's time to stand back and admire your snowy evergreen. Congratulations on a job well done. Fire in an electric kiln at Cone 15 or 14. 85 F. Thank you for taking this class.