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Nursing Tunic For Edgy Moms (Zip and Sip)

My NursingTunic Is Finished!

Look good, feed your baby.  Zippers on each side make for easy access. 

The high collar can be styled in various ways, folded over tight or loose.

If you feel the need to get all agro, no problem, pull that collar up high.

Don't mess with this Mama!

Quilted sleeve with studs detail.

Detachable hipbag snaps in under quilted flap with studs.  

The best part is, this thing is super comfortable. 

I've learned a lot in this class.  I'm excited to do more draping!  Wish I would've had more time to make the matching pair of chaps I have visualized to complete the look.  Thanks Anya for the instructional videos!  Congrats to all the other classmates who finished their garments! It was fun following along with your progress.  I hope you guys like my garment. I do and so does Otto!

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Working on Hipbag (this one sucks)

The tunic is basically done.  I'm working on the hipbag. I ordered some brass clips for the hardware to attach.  I made a mock up of the bag as I imagined it, and I don't like it! It looks way to school girl/steam punkish.  Its really detracting from the look. I'm not sure exactly what I'm going to do.  I'm attached to the idea of the bag.  I've made a pledge that every garment I design will have pockets because utilitarianism is my middle name.  The hipbag was going to be the pocket of this garment.  We'll have to see.  I'm sad I can't use my lobster clasps, but alas, they are looking cheesy as hell.  

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Finishing sleeves

I've made the quilted cap sleeves.  I was orignially planning on attaching with studs along the seam.  On looking at the placement, I don't like the look of them along the seam.  I've tacked the sleeves on in 5 different places to maintain the loose look.  I've thought about getting rid of the studs altogether. I'm wondering if the studs don't make it look a bit costumey but I think I'm going to keep them.  I think I like the look of them along the edge of the sleeve better. 

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Finishing Collar

After working on the collar for a while, I decided a peep hole was unecessary.  I'm just going to leave the collar high,  It can be folded over, but if pulled up straight, will cover most of the face. 

I also decided not to line the collar.  The burgandy chiffon added too much feminity to the look and did not match the aesthatic. I couldn't find any other fabric I liked.  I'm just folding the seam allowance under and sewing down. I'm happy with how the collar is coming along. 

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Working on Collar

I really want this look to be an aggressive look to juxtopose against the view of mothers as soft and marmy.  I made the collar super high because I wasn't sure what legnth I wanted.  When I was trying the tunic on, I could pull the collar to cover my entire face. I was joking around with my husband and said something like, yeah and for modesty, when nursing in public, instead of covering your boobs, you can just cover your face up.  He suggested cutting a peep hole so you can utlize the collar as a face mask.  I sort of love this idea.  

I know the collar/helmet sample thing in the picture above is horrible.  I hate the way that looks and I'm definitely rethinking the burgundy fabric as a lining in general.  I was thinking, maybe if I got a sheer grey for a lining and to go behind the peek hole it would look better.  Perhaps also making the slit wider and less high.  Also the collar/neck area is going to be much more fitted. I need to add some darts or something.   I'm not sure how its going to play out yet, but...peek hole?  We'll see.

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Sewing Tunic

I have the main shell of the tunic cut and the zippers put in.  

I'm working on the collar.  I'm trying to decide what to do with it.  I got this burgandy chiffon to line it with, but I'm wondering if I should line it with the same grey denim.  I sort of liked the softness against the hardness of the design.  But I'm not sure its getting it.  Not sure what to do.  Any ideas?

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Cutting Pattern

I'm very process oriented, so I like flat patterns.  In the past I thought it was either draping or flat patterns. I've been teaching myself design and struggling making flat platterns, trial and error over and over.  With this project, I realize you can DRAPE TO MAKE YOUR PATTERN!  Its so obvious, but I never thought of it this way. Its rad.  I made a sample because I didn't trust the dressform, but the sample fit me pretty well.  Here is the pattern.  I'm cutting with the grain (decided against on the bias) so the structure supports the bust zippers.

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Sample Piece

Here is the sample dress I made from draped pattern.  It fits pretty well.  I have decided to edit out the shoulder zippers and will just do a zipper up the back instead.  I'm going to line the bodice and collar of the tunic, so when the collar is folded down, it will be finished.  Also, the tunic will be shorter then this.  But I am digging this mouth dress. I'm going to finish it to wear it. I'm thinking of adding a hoodie picket over the red mouth in the same matching fabric to be slightly invisible.  But that is all off topic, this is just the sample.
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Draping Pattern

I don't have any muslin on hand, so I just used some grey cotton material I had lying around.  Draping on old Pepto is pretty frustrating. The tape I have wouldn't stick very well to the knit cover.  I kept having to add padding to get the right shape and all the style lines would fall off and I'd have to reapply.  It took me pretty much an entire day to get the pattern draped.  I'm not entirely confident that the shape is going to be right, so I'm going to make a sample out of scrap material before cutting into my denim.

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Finalized Tunic Plan

I'm going to do a take on a hunting tunic with a high turtle neck made of a stretch grey denim with a very small herringbone print. Although the video tutorials show a more flowing silk garment, I am very drawn to making a structured design.  I know I'll be sacrificing the drama of movement but I'm more interested in making a hard/masculine design to contrast against the image of mothers as being so soft and feminine.  I like the idea of a kick ass modern woman who can easily nurse her baby while looking edgy and rad.

It will have princess seams which go up to shoulder seam.  Burgundy/brass zippers will be placed starting at the bust and extend down to bottom hem to allow for nursing access.  I am going to do a quilted cap sleeve riveted onto the shoulder to mimic an armor effect. I'm thinking of putting zippers in along the shoulder seam and up the collar so you can unzip the collar for different effects.  I'm going to make a test sample with zippers to see if this will work structurally. It may make the collar to stiff or uncomfortable, so it may get edited before the final piece.  We'll see.  I also want to make a hip bag which will be clipped onto D-rings riveted at the side waist. 

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Prepping My Dressform:

Part of the reason I've never attempted draping is that I'm not very fond of the dress form I have. The proportions are off among other grievances.  To make it more my size, I ended up padding the bust out and raising the shoulders with foam.  I just used what I have lying around, an old bra, some cloth padding, and then wrapped it in syran wrap to keep it all together.  Its not an awesome option, but its the best I've got. 

Its hard applying and moving the draping tape on the syran wrap (plus its hard to see since there is so much going on visually with all the padding) so I decided to drape a cover out of some ugly pink knit I had lying around. 

It turned out pretty good.  So I guess my first draping project was actually this dress form cover. 

So everybody, I'd like to introduce to you my dress form friend Pepto Bismo!  I call her Pep for short.

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Nebulous Project Planning:

For my first project, I want to do something simple like a tunic.  I originally was thinking a more thick fabric. I'm into wool and flannel right now.  I just watched the fabric selection video and am feeling like perhaps its not the best choice based on Anya's advice.  I think I just have to go to the fabric store and see what moves me. 

Here is a very rough sketch of a general profile.  Can't wait to get started.  Wish I didn't have so many holiday obligations keeping me from the fabric store!

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Introduction:

Hello all!  This is my first time taking a skillshare class. I'm self taught both with sewing and design.  I have a small business selling baby hats and clothes on etsy and consignment.  For the last year or so, I've been working on learning women's clothing design in between raising my 2 and 3 year old.  I feel passionately about breast feeding babies and I am working on a collection of fashionable clothing for women to comfortably nurse/pump in. I'm hoping to use this project as one of my pieces. 

I haven't really spoken with other designers much, so I'm really looking forward to working with all of you on this project! I've found myself much more drawn toward flat pattern making, but have always wanted to learn how to drape.  I think I've been intimidated by the process because I don't have a very good dress form, but I'm sick of letting excuses stop me.  I want to do this!

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