Construct your own vest

Block Patterns

Align your block patterns
Use the seven attached block pattern pieces to create the base of your vest.

Use tape to align the vest shape by the seams. Blocks 1 through 4 will make up the front pattern, while 5 through 7 will make up the back.

Cut your block pattern out. Remember to leave the the pattern on your work space, avoid cutting in the air.

Add your own style lines to the block pattern. You can use your body as a reference. Adjust accordingly to your size and customize the design to your creative eye.

Fabric Cutting

Choose fabrics to work with
Choose fabrics with similar characteristics and weight.

Once you pick the fabrics you want to work with, it always helps to do a sketch of where each fabric will go. Think back to your childhood when we use to “Paint by numbers” and this format can easily help you to determine where each fabric will go and will give you a mental image of what your final piece will look like!
Cut out pattern
Pin your pattern pieces to the fabric. You might feel more comfortable using weights.

Use scissors to cut your pattern out of the fabric.
Assemble your pattern
Cut the front facing and back facing patterns out. Realign them to your fabric, then cut out the pattern.

Sewing Stitches

Press and pin your fabric
It is important to press your fabric so that the fabric has time to adjust to its original state.

Pin your fabric together. Remember to start with pinning the wrong sides first.
Sew your straight stitch
Sew your first straight stitch. Reduce the amount of excess seam allowance from 1/2 inch to 1/4 or 1/8 inch.

Remember to press your fabric after you stitch.
Add your flat felled stitch
Carefully fold your 1/2 inch seam allowance into an 1/8 inch finished seam. Lightly steam the seam into place.

Add a top stitch to seal the seam.
Add a French seam
A French stitch is a seam within a seam.

Create a stitch on a 1/2 inch seam allowance.

Trim 1/4 inch from your 1/2 inch seam allowance.

Fold and pin your stitch onto itself from the inside out.

Create a second 1/4 inch stitch, encasing the first stitch on to itself.
Create a tailored edge
Connect your facings by a 1/2 inch seam.

Roll a 1/4 inch top stich around the edge of your fabric.

Finishing

Create arm holes
Use a 1/4 inch top stitch to create arm holes.
Apply a Hong Kong binding
Align binding with the edge of your seam allowance. Then sew a 1/4 top stitch.

Press the binding flat, double it over, then create an 1/8 inch top stitch on the seam.

Press and fold the excess binding into the stitch line, then add another 1/8 or 1/4 inch top stitch.
Finishing touches
Fold the bottom of your body fabric into itself. Stitch it together with a 1/4 inch seam.

Repeat this step along the entire hem of the vest until it is complete!

Sandra Gillhouse

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