Weaving Without a Loom: DIY Woven Wall Hanging Made Using Cardboard | Hillary Bird | Skillshare

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Weaving Without a Loom: DIY Woven Wall Hanging Made Using Cardboard

teacher avatar Hillary Bird, Wabi Sabi Textile Company

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.



    • 2.

      DIY Cardboard Loom


    • 3.

      Warping Your Loom


    • 4.

      Rya Knots (Fringe)


    • 5.

      Plain Weave


    • 6.

      Weaving Shapes


    • 7.

      Slit Seams


    • 8.



    • 9.

      Taking Your Weaving Off the Loom


    • 10.



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About This Class

In this entirely introductory class, you will learn all the basic techniques necessary to create your very own woven wall hanging with textile artist Hillary Bird of Wabi Sabi Textile Company.

We will first go over how to make a cardboard loom; this is great for anyone who wants to try weaving but isn't ready to buy a loom just yet. You will learn how to warp your loom, create fringe, weave shapes and different kinds of seams. With these techniques, weavers will be able to create a totally unique wall hanging to display in their home or gift to a loved one!

Meet Your Teacher

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Hillary Bird

Wabi Sabi Textile Company


Hillary Bird, avid weaver and fashion historian

Since early 2010, Hillary has been professionally working with vintage clothes and is completely immersed in all things vintage in most aspects of her life. Her first job in the field was as a historical costumer/seamstress and now she works at a textile recycling company, rescuing valuable vintage gems from being shredded for their fiber.

Throughout her life, Hillary's creative endeavors have always revolved around textiles. She dabbled in countless types of artist processes, but it wasn't until 2013, the first time she picked up a loom, that everything came together. Her years spent as a seamstress paired with her love of color and design naturally evolved into a passion for weaving, and now, almost all the fibers Hillary ... See full profile

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1. Introduction: Hi, I'm Hillary Bird of Wabi Sabi Textile. Come in this class, you'll be introduced to some basic tapestry weaving techniques. If you're new to weaving, you might not have a loom, but don't fret. Will be making a simple one out of cardboard. Although the Loomis's set size and only certain techniques will be taught, the possibilities of what could be made are endless. This is a great starting point and can be easily expanded upon for future projects. Let's get started. 2. DIY Cardboard Loom: If you already have a loom, great. If not, here's an easy way to make one. You'll need a ruler, an Exacto knife, a pencil and a piece of cardboard. I've precut mine five inches by seven inches. This is a great size to start to make the tabs that hold your warp in place. Markoff. Every quarter of an inch on two ends of the cardboard, I recommend marking off the five engines. Now that you've made all your martz take your Exacto knife and cut the cardboard on each line, it's important to make sure the knife cuts all the way through the cardboard, and there you have it, a cardboard loom, not seem to work it. 3. Warping Your Loom: For this next step, you'll need tape to pieces to be exact and thread. I recommend using a thinner thread, something that won't easily be snagged by your needle when we vein. Butcher's twine is an inexpensive option. Although I prefer kirsch a thread either will do. Work is the term used. Describe the vertical threads that are woven on. Start by placing your warp thread through the first lot on the top of your limb, leaving a tail on the back about an inch or so long taped. To secure that end, bring the thread down to the first lot on the bottom of the limb and wrap it around the tab . Bring the thread back up to the top of the loom, placing it in the second slot and again wrapping around the tab. You'll repeat this the entire width of the limb while warping. Keep in mind that you want your attention to be even. You don't want it so tight that you can't put a needle underneath it, but also not so loose that it will pop off the loom while you're weaving. When you reach the end of the loom, it's important that you secure the war but the top just like you did at the beginning. If you're left with unused tabs like mine, that's okay. Having a distinct top and bottom will make things easier when you're ready to take your weaving off the limb. This is what the back of your limbs should look like with every other tab covered. And this is what the French look like with even tension throughout. 4. Rya Knots (Fringe): the fringe that you see at the bottom of most weavings are made using Ryan odds. You can also add Ryan knots anywhere throughout your weaving toe, add more texture and enhance your design. One easy trick to keep your friends even and straight is to cut out a piece of cardboard the same length as you'd like your friends to be. The thing to remember about Ryan nuts is that one not will always use to warp threads. The easiest way to determine how many knots you'll be making is to count the covered tabs on the bottom of the back of your loom. Wrap your yarn around the cardboard as many times as the number of knots you need. Rapping once all the way around the cardboard counts as one not for fuller looking French double or even triple your number for my weaving. I'll be making nine knots, and I'd like my friends a little full, so I'll wrap the cardboard 18 times. This will give me two pieces of yarn, per not when you've wrapped the cardboard as many times as needed. Take your scissors and make one cut on the same side. You started rapping take his many pieces of yarn as you've determined you'd like for not and center them under two adjacent warp threads. Bring the ends of the yarn up and place them together, wrapped the ends under one of the warp threads going from the outside and bringing them through the middle, lightly pulled to tighten. You're not. They take some getting used to. I personally find it easier to understand when you see how they look. Center under two warps. Bring ends together. Wrap the ends under one of the warp threads, going from the outside and bringing him through the middle and lightly pull. Repeat this until all your warps air covered. 5. Plain Weave: Once you've finished adding fringe, you're ready to start weaving to create your wall hanging. You will need scissors, a needle with a large I and some yarn I recommend using anywhere from 3 to 5 colors. We'll start with plain weave, which is a simple is threatening your yarn over and under every warp thread. Cut approximately an arm's length of yarn and thread the needle. I'm going to start by going under the first to warp threads. This is so I can tuck the end of the yarn over one of the warps to secure my leaving. Finished the row by going over. Then, under every warp thread, the space created between the warps by the yarn is called shed. Pull the yarn through the shed, leaving a tale about an inch or so long. Bring the end back over the first warp, then tuck it under. These will be trimmed at the end. Gently push your first road down so that it sits on top of the fringe. For your next road, you'll need to weave in the shed opposite your first row. If the yarn sits on top of the warp thread for the row below you'll leave under for this row and vice versa. When pulling the yarn through the shed. Be careful not to pull too tight. We have a small bubble of yarn so that the warp is not being pulled into the weaving. Gently pushed this row against the last. Repeat these steps until you've covered the desired space. When you finished, took the end of the yarn in to secure it just like you did in the beginning. 6. Weaving Shapes: Creating shapes is a matter of adding or subtracting warps with each row woven. For instance, if you would like to weave a shorter triangle, you will drop one warp thread with every 2 to 4 rows. First, deeper triangle multiple rows will be woven before a warp is dropped. You'll start your shape the same way you started. Plain weave. First go under two warps. Continue the row, going under and over, then tuck the end of the yarn into secure it. I'm leaving a shorter triangle. So all we four rows before any warps air dropped. Once enough, Roeser woven one warp will be dropped from both sides from the next set of Rose. Repeat this until your triangle comes to a point. 7. Slit Seams: There are two types of seems that can be woven when two colors air next to each other. The first type is called slit. Seem slit. Seem is when the two colors bump up against each other on adjacent warps. This type of Siem gets its name because it literally creates a slit in your weaving. If you don't want small gaps in your weaving, remember to leave a little yarn bubble and make sure you don't pull too tight Go. 8. Hatching: At this point, I've added a bit more to mind design, using what was taught with plainly of and shapes. So far, I've only made slit seems and I'm ready for something different. The second type of seem is called hatching. Hatching differs from slit seem and that the two colors next to each other share a single warp. The easiest way to do this is to create one shape and spread the rose out of it. When you're ready to turn around and we've the second row, use the same last warp as the other shape. Push the second row of the first shape down, and we've your next row on top of it. Repeat this until you've woven between each row of the first shape. Hatching almost gives the appearance of a subtle zigzag between shapes. 9. Taking Your Weaving Off the Loom: Once you've completed your design, you're ready to take your weaving off the loom. It doesn't matter whether or not you feel the loom to the top. Just keep in mind that the closer to the top you weave the shorter year war pens will be when tying off. Now is the time it pays off to have a distinct top and bottom to your limb. Since there aren't any loose ends on the bottom of the loom, you're able to just pop the warp right off the tabs. When the bottom of your weaving is no longer attached to the limb, flip it over and very gently pull your Ryan knots down. This will create some gaps in the weaving, but that's OK. It's easy to shift everything down a bit before you take the top of your weaving off the limb. This is a good time to make any minor adjustments. Make sure everything is lined up the way you like before taking it off the loom entirely. Once everything looks just right, take your scissors and cut the rest of the war boy from the loom, as far away from your weaving as possible with your weaving face. I down tied the warps together two at a time. You'll want to double, not them. But make sure when you pull the knot tight, you aren't shifting the yarn with it. - Since we're weaving on a loom that wasn't accessible from the back. Most of our loose ends are sticking out of the front of the weaving. Take your needle and very gently pull the ends through the back of the weaving. 10. Conclusion: Now that all your loose ends are at the back of your weaving, you can trim them, but make sure you don't cut them so short that they will pop back out the front. Do not cut your warp threats yet, as you can use them to tie onto a hanging around of some kind. I hope that with all you learned from this class, you go on to create more one of a kind wall hangings. I believe you learn the most from trial and error. If you're anything like me, you'll soon have more woven wall hangings than you'll know what to do it. What we mean is not only a fantastic way to make unique art for your home, friends or family. It's also a surprisingly relaxing way to spend time. Thanks so much for taking my class.