Transcripts
1. Intro: Hi, my name is Colby and I am so excited that you're joining
me for my class today, all on loose summer
watercolor doodles. For this summer doodles class, we're mostly focusing on fruit, like strawberries
and blueberries and raspberries and blackberries
and kiwi and watermelon. We're also going to
learn how to paint some popsicles and at
the end of the class, when you've gone through all of the different modules to
learn the different subjects, we're going to put them
altogether to paint a fun watercolor wreath that
looks just like this one. I think one of my most
favorite ways to practice doodling is to put
them all together in a wreath because honestly, you can put lots of
different subjects together and slap
some leaves on it and it just looks super cool. If this sounds like a
fun project to you, I would love for you to join me. Go ahead and watch
the next video to gather all of
your materials and then I can't wait to see what you come up with at the end
of the class. Thanks so much.
2. Materials: Before we get started, let's take some time to
gather our materials. First, I'm going to talk
about paintbrushes. In this class, I'm
mostly going to be using a size 6 paintbrush and
a size 0 paintbrush. Both of them are round in shape and both of these are
professional-grade paintbrushes. This is Princeton brand and
it's the velvet touch series. It's synthetic sable hair. It's a little bit stiffer than some other
synthetic sable hair, this velvet touch series is, but I really enjoyed
this paintbrush. I'm also going to be using some times this
size 0 paintbrush. It's Utrecht brand, series 228, also synthetic sable hair. I prefer synthetic over real
hair on my paintbrushes. Just because I think it allows
for better water control. It's also because
it's synthetic. No animals were harmed in the making of these
paintbrushes. That's always a
bonus and important. For all of the paintings, the loose summer doodles that we're going to
be painting today, I'm probably not
going to be using a brush that's higher than a 6. But if you do, I wouldn't
go much higher than a 10. A 10 I think is
probably for some of the bigger things we're
going to be painting like the watermelon or the popsicles. You could use a 10, but I'm mostly going to
be using a 0 and a 6. There's paintbrushes. I always like to have
a pencil and eraser, especially for our
final project. I always like to have
some Q-tips on hand, especially when we're working mostly with the
wet-on-wet technique, which is what we're going to
be practicing a lot today. For paper, I like to always have both professional-grade
and student-grade. I practice on
student-grade paper. Most of the tutorials in
this class I will be using this Fabriano Studio
Watercolor paper. It's cold press, it's
140 pound in weight. That means a whole rim which is 500 sheets when they're
altogether weighs 140 pounds. Regardless, if I'm using
professional or student grade, I always like to use watercolor paper that's
at least 140 pounds. Then for our
professional-grade paper, for our final project. I'm going to be using
this legion paper and it's also cold press
and 140 pounds. The biggest difference is this is made of 100
percent cotton, while the student-grade paper is made of only 25 percent cotton, and a bunch of other like wood
pulp is what it's called. Just a bunch of
other materials that are cheaper to make
than using cotton. That is paper. Then for paint, you can use whatever paint
you have on hand. My only recommendation is that
you have assorted colors. I'm going to be
using a lot of reds, and pinks, and
yellows, and greens, and blues today for our
bright, loose summer doodles. All of this paint is
professional grade paint, mostly Winsor & Newton
and Daniel Smith, in case you're wondering. But you don't have to
necessarily have to use professional-grade
paint in order to come up with beautiful
wet-on-wet blends, you can use whatever
you have on hand. I just find professional-grade
is more vibrant, and it does tend to blend slightly better
than student-grade paint, but you can always create beautiful things
with what you have on hand. That about sums it up. I
always have two cups of water that I use to
rinse off my brush. one I always keep clean
as much as possible. Then, of course, a paper towel to rinse off
in-between things. I never feel the need to
put those in the video because it seems implied. Either way, those are the materials I'm going to
be using with the paint. I also like to have
some mixing palette. I am just going to be using my plastic palette here today. But if you have, because some of the
colors that we want, I don't necessarily have
just in the pure pigment. I'm gonna be doing some
mixing and I'll tell you, what colors are we mixing
while we learn how to form the doodles that we're going to
be painting today. Now, that sums it up. Gather all your materials and let's go ahead to
the next video.
3. Warm Up: But let's do a little
bit of warming up by discussing the major technique that we will be
practicing in this class, and that is the
wet-on-wet technique. If you have any experience
with watercolor, you may have already heard
of the wet-on-wet technique, but for those of
you who haven't, I'm just going to do a quick
overview in this video. Before we start on the
wet-on-wet technique, I'm going to talk about the wet-on-dry technique and I'll demonstrate that
to you right now. The wet-on-dry technique
is when you paint with watercolor and the paper is dry. It's not wet and that's the
dry part of the wet-on-dry. Wet is always the
watercolor because watercolor is
activated with water. But if the paper or whatever surface you're
painting on is dry, then it's called the
wet-on-dry technique. What most characterizes
the wet-on-dry technique is the fact that the paint only goes where your brush
tells it to go and that's because watercolor is activated with water, as I just said. Because your paintbrush is the only thing that's
putting water on the paper, then the paint is going to
follow where the water is and that means following wherever your brush puts that water down. [NOISE] The wet-on-dry technique we use to create really
crisp defined lines, a lot of details, and precision work
is what we use the wet-on-dry technique for if you want to create a
really structured shape. However, this class
is mostly going to be focusing on the wet-on-wet
technique, which, as you might have
been able to surmise, [NOISE] is when you paint on a surface that is already wet. We're going to be talking a lot about the wet-on-wet
technique today. But just as this brief overview, I'll show you the
wet-on-wet technique is characterized by the paint. Because the paper
is already wet, the paint does not stay only where your
paintbrush tells it to. It wants to go wherever
there's water, and so you get this really
cool blooming effect. Now the wet-on-wet technique can either be if the paper is wet with just water or if the paper is already
wet with paint. That is the method we use [NOISE] to get
some really cool blends. Blending colors together really seamlessly so that they seem to just melt into each other or
form these cloudy blends. If you want to
practice along with me, I'd recommend that. Getting your paper
wet and practicing, just putting different colors next to each other and
seeing what happens. [NOISE] Again, we're
going to be doing a lot of this throughout the course of this class
as we learn how to paint different kinds of
loose summer doodles. As we paint our subjects, we're going to learn more
about how to control the wet-on-wet technique
and how much water to use. For now, just know that this is the wet-on-wet technique
when the paper is wet with either paint
or just with water. You paint on top of the
wet paper in order to create some blend or
some loose image, like a software layer of color. That's typically why we use
the wet-on-wet technique. Practice the
wet-on-wet technique. Some things I would
practice are, what happens when you put down only a little bit of water? [NOISE] If you
spread it out so it seems like it's a thin
layer and it's going to dry pretty soon.
What happens? You'll notice here, really what happens is that the paint doesn't
spread very far. It looks like I'm just
painting fuzzy lines. Versus what happens when
you put too much water on. I'm going to put too
much water on here. If you put so much water on, that it's forming a puddle, you can actually see
the physical bump. That means you have
too much water. Let me show you what happens when you put the paint on there. It just floats on
the top, you see. It doesn't stick to the paper
or blend onto the paper. It floats on top of the water. But that's why we
have Q-tips so that we can just mop up the excess
water because occasionally, especially when we're
doing big washes, you will accidentally put
too much water on there, but mopping up puddles
is so salvageable. I like to have Q-tips on hand. You can also use a paper
towel or anything like that, but you'll notice
when I mopped up the water most of the pigment that I put on
here went away as well, and that's because, again, when you have too much water on, the paint does not go
down to the paper. It just floats on top of
the water and does not create the smooth blends
that we're looking for. Now that I've done
this brief overview, practice the
wet-on-wet technique, practice different
kinds of water control, and then let's steam on
ahead because this is not the last that you will see of the wet-on-wet technique.
4. Practice: Popsicles, part 1: To continue our warm-up of
the wet-on-wet technique, we're going to talk about how to paint one of the most fun and iconic summer doodles I
think there is out there. That is the popsicle. Here are just a
couple of examples of quick popsicles that I
painted before this class. We're going to
learn how to using the wet-on-wet technique to paint those really cool blends, these loose popsicle shapes. While we're doing
it, we're going to practice the techniques
that we need for using the
wet-on-wet technique for the other summer doodles that we're going to
paint in this class. First things first, grab your paintbrush and put
some clean water on it, and like you're painting with water outline in water the
general shape of a popsicle. Just like a rounded top hat's
squares off at the bottom. We're going to fill that
shape with clean water. We want to try to
keep this shape wet while we're painting. You may have to
come back and put different washes on if you're
using student-grade papers. Student-grade paper dries more quickly than
professional-grade. That's something to
pay attention to. One way to know if your
paper is still wet is if you bend over and see that the light is reflecting
off of the paper, that means it's still wet. If it's not, that means
part of it has dried. You might need to re-wet it. But first things first, we outlined the shape of
the popsicle in water. We have our wet surface and now I want you to pick a color. I'm going to create a
strawberry lemonade popsicle. I'm going to do pink. This is quin rose right
right, Daniel Smith. I'm going to do pink and yellow
and I'm going to do pink first. Grab your color. For this first layer
of wet-on-wet, you want it not to
be super pigmented. Not like mostly pigment, you want it to be a little
bit wet but not too wet. Submit that you're going to make puddles but if you do make
a puddle, that's okay. That's why we have Q-tips. I have my paintbrush
with this pink on it. Now, along the very edge
of the wet popsicle, I'm just going to
guide my paintbrush along the edge so that my paint blends in
with the water. Notice that I'm not really
doing anything right now except putting
paint on the water. The paint is doing the
blending all on its own. All I'm doing is instead of putting paint just
randomly in the middle of the water and letting it
do its thing there is because my goal here is to create a loose
gradient where I want the outside to be
darker than the inside. The edges of this popsicle, I want it to be darker
than the inside and I want the middle to have some white spots
to be contrasting. I'm just painting along
the edges because I know along the edges
outside is dry. Outside the confines of
this popsicle is dry. The paint is not going
to go to this side. It's only going to go
inside the popsicle. As long as the paper is wet, it's going to blend. By painting it this way, by letting it blend inward, it creates its own
smooth gradient. After I have mostly done that, I'm going to go in and manually blend some of this paint
together with the middle. But instead of doing
big washes like this, like painting big
strokes like that, I'm just going to wash off my pigment and use what I like to call
the tapping method. Using just water. I'm going to tap around where
the pigment has landed. Sometimes I might pick up more paint than I want
when I tap around. I'm going to
periodically wash off my paintbrush so that it
just has clean water on it. I'm going to tap around
using this water. That will achieve two things. First, it helps enhance the cool watercolor
texture going on here, where if I show
you more up close, you can see that it looks like
there's some water splat, just some water
texture going on here. I'm helping that along by
using this tapping method. That also helps to blend the color in with white
while maintaining the white. I can still have this contrast
of colors in-between. We've put down the pink. Now, I'm just going to
make sure the bottom of my popsicle is still wet. I might extend it a little bit. If it's not still
wet, I'm going to re-wet it with clean water. That's again why I like to have at least one cup of clean
water with me all the time. I'm going to do the same with yellow along the
bottom so that yellow and pink can meet where I'm just putting this
yellow along the bottom here. The yellow and pink are
going to meet to indicate that this popsicle is
strawberry lemonade. When you're creating loose
summer doodles like this, especially like popsicles and just practicing your blending, you can either paint a
popsicle you know exists or you can paint one that you wish existed or just put
a lot of different colors together and call it good. As long as you put it in
the shape of a popsicle, it's going to look real cool. I'm using the
tapping method again to blend some of this yellow up here and make sure it's
blending smoothly. Then one last thing is once you've put
down that first layer, you can go back again with even darker pigment as
long as it's still wet. This is something we're going
to practice more later on, as long as it's still wet
and put down another layer. Doing the same thing of
just even darker pigment, only going along the edges. If you use a higher
concentration of pigment to water ratio, more pigment then the paint
is not going to go as far, especially if it's not
as wet as it was before. It's just going to create
even more contrast, even more of a gradient
which is going from one color to the next
pretty smoothly. Creating these
monochrome gradients in a wet-on-wet shape, it's pretty fun and pretty simple once you know what to do. You know that the paint is
going to move where the water is and so if you move
along the outside edges, are probably going
to stay pretty dark, and then the remainder
of that paint is going to move
by itself inward. There you go. There
is our popsicle. Now in the next video, I'm going to add onto this
popsicle after it's dry, it looks like I got a
hair in here somewhere, that's okay. I'll pull
that out in a second. After this is dry, I'm going to show you how to paint those little
ridges that are often inside popsicles to make them look like they're
indents and shadows. That's using both
the wet-on-wet and wet-on-dry techniques but
we need this to dry first. Either do that manually or wait for it to dry but either way, I will see you in
the next video.
5. Practice: Popsicles, part 2: While our other
popsicle was drying, I went ahead and
painted a couple more, just a few different shapes
that are pretty common. I painted this square one that was probably more
like a fruit sorbet, not a square, rectangle. I feel like, in America anyway, this rocket-shaped red, white and blue popsicle
was pretty popular. Hopefully, especially
with this one, knowing what we did here, you'll be able to tell how I painted these blends together. Following the instructions that we did last time, basically, I did an outline of the
rocket ship and water, and then I started
with the red down here just going along the edges, and the blue up here
going along the edges. But instead of
going all the way, I left a little bit of
white in the middle so that the blue could
meet just the water, and the red could meet
just the water and leave some of this middle space, that white just icy space. That's how I painted
that popsicle, and if you painted along
with me in the last video, you have all the
tools that you need. But in this video, we're going to really quickly go over how to paint
those little ridges. Basically, once the
popsicle is dry, you take another layer of
paint that's a bit darker, or rather, not paint. We're using very
similar techniques. First, you put down water
on top of the dry paint. We don't want a very
thick layer of water, just pretty thin because if
you have too much water, the paint is not going to blend the way that we want it to. Well, you put down a pretty
thin layer of water, and then you pick up some
of this paint and do the same thing going along the edge just on this one side. We're going to make this ridge a little darker on the one
side so that it shows, or it tricks your mind
into thinking that this is deeper than the other side. Again, the trick here to
making this really look like an indent is to get one side that's darker
than the other. We're going to do that using
that gradient trick we learned in the last class, by using the
wet-on-wet technique to create this
seamless gradient so that we have a
nice shadow there. I'm going to do the same thing. I have two of these, and I'm not really worried. These are loose summer
doodles so I'm not really worried about them
looking super realistic. They don't have to be
perfectly straight, these are just
supposed to be fun. I'm going to do the same
thing that I did before, where taking this
darker pigment, I'm going to go
along the outside. This looked a little bit better because I have a
little less water. The more water I have, the more the paint is
going to go everywhere, and the less water I have, the more the paint is only
going to go a little bit. But it's tricky because if
I don't have enough water, then the paint isn't
going to go very far at all and I'm not going to have the results I
want that way either. That's why the wet-on-wet
technique is tricky. It's important to practice, especially if you want to
be a master at watercolor. Not that I'm saying I am, but painting these popsicles
is a really fun way to test out water control and to figure out how you can make the wet-on-wet
technique work for you. I'm going to go back just
with darker pigment on this side and see if I can get that
contrast I'm looking for, but otherwise, I'm mostly
going to call that good. Once that dries, that's
how we're going to create those ridges
inside the popsicle. Just by creating shadows within these little rectangles that I painted inside the popsicle, we're creating
contrast so that part of the rectangle is darker
than the other part, and it tricks the brain
into thinking that that's a shadow and you
can see inside of it. There is that. Your task now is to practice the
wet-on-wet technique, blending colors, and practicing the wet-on-wet technique
within specific shapes. I encourage you to paint
as many popsicles to your heart's content
before we move on to the next summer doodle. I will see you soon.
6. Practice: Watermelon: Next up, we are going
to learn how to paint a loose watercolor watermelon, and the techniques we use are very similar to
the techniques we used to create our popsicles. Let's get started. Now, before
we get started painting, I want to talk about
color a little bit. I have some opera pink
here from Daniel Smith and opera pink is a fun color if you want to use
for watermelon. But for me. It's a
little too bright, neon kind of pink, and so to get the color
that I really want, I'm going to mix opera pink with just a little
bit of yellow ocher. Yellow ocher is this
darker yellow color over here that I have. I'm going to mix
just a little bit of yellow ocher in
with my opera pink. I don't want it
to be too colory. I've mixed probably a
little bit too much. Yeah, it's a little too colory. I'm going to mix a
little more opera pink. I want it to be like
a nice Melanie color there. Just like that. Perfect. With some
of these fruits, sometimes in order to get
the exact color that I want, I have to do my own mixing, which is why I like to
have these palettes, and why I like to test my colors on scratch
paper before hand. Now I'm just basically creating a nice little bank
of this color, so I don't have to go back and mix it together every time. With watermelon, like I said, we are going to be using
very similar technique as the popsicle. First, I'm going to paint
a watermelon facing down. It's a slice of watermelon
that's facing down, so I should specify this particular tutorial is just for a slice of watermelon
that's facing down. I'm going to paint this triangle because I feel like watermelon
often come and triangles. I'm just using water. I'm not having a very sharp
point to this triangle. It's pretty smooth.
Just in general, this watermelon is not
an exact triangle. We're painting. We're going
for a loose styles here. Loose doodles that are just fun ways to warm up and enjoy
summer with your watercolor. I'm making sure to get down
a good layer of water here. Then I'm going to take this
melon color that I created. This one I'm not trying to be as careful about going
around the edges because it doesn't need
to be super shaded. I'm just painting along. I still want to leave
some white space just for that nice
watercolor effect. But the key here is I'm
not going to go up to the very top of this
triangle just yet, and that's because we're going
to paint in the outside, the green part of the
watermelon in just a second. But the tricky part with painting watermelon
is pink and green, as colors, do not
blend well together. Let me show you what I mean. After I finish shading this. With my brush, I'm just using the tapping method
again to add in some of this darker watermelon
in some places and using the tapping method
to make sure that I don't have just a straight wash
because that's not what I'm looking for when I paint these loose doodles
with watercolor, I want them to look
like watercolor, like they have
this cool texture. That looks pretty good. I'm going to show you what happens when you mix
pink and green together. First, I'm going to create
a little bit more of this melon color that I created before with opera pink
and yellow ocher. Here's my melon. Then I'm going to take
some of this ocher green. When you mix pink with green, you get this gross brown color, which is not advertising
and that's because red and green are
complimentary colors, which means they're
opposite each other on the color wheel, which means they do
not go well together. Because we know that
about pink and green, but I still want to have a nice blend because these are still loose watercolor doodles, I still want to have
a nice blend of colors in my doodle, I'm just going to
leave a little bit, a layer of clear clean water
at the top that's still wet. Now that I've painted most of
the body of my watermelon, I'm going to take some pretty
watery Hooker's green, not so watery that it's transparent but just
pretty wet hookers green. Along the top, I'm only going to
have the tip of my paintbrush be skimming
along the top and still be painting on the dry paper on
top of that layer of wet. It's like I want to
leave that layer of white where you
can see the paper. I want to leave that there. When I initially drew the
triangle for the watermelon, the water wasn't
supposed to capture what the outside
of the watermelon, the green part of the
watermelon, is supposed to be. I'm painting that on top so that the bottom of the
green part is the top of the initial outline of the watermelon that
we painted with water, so that I still have
this layer of white. Part of that is if you
look at watermelon, there is a layer of
colorless melon, basically that connects
the green part of the watermelon with
the actual fruit. In that way we're mimicking
what exists in real life, but in terms of
what it means for us as artists we're
doing that also, so that we try to avoid
mixing green and pink as much as possible because we know that they do not
mix well together. After I've put down
my layer of green, I'm just going to go back
and do the tapping method again to mix some of these together and create those cool watercolor blends
that I really like. The next step here is
to add some seeds. We're going to wait
for it to dry, and then we're going to
add some black seeds. Now that our watermelon is dry, I'm going to take my size zero brush and I'm just going
to get some black paint. If you don't have black paint, an alternative is if you
have a nice black pen, you could also draw on
the seeds that way. But I'm just going
to draw in a few of these seed-like things
in the watermelon. Not very many. I like
to go in odd numbers, so I'm probably going to
go for five and we're just putting them randomly in different sizes scattered
on the watermelon. Then maybe one down here. I'm going to do seven, I lied. Sometimes I eyeball
it and just decide if something might need
a little bit more. Again, this is a
loose watermelon. We're mostly going for quirky illustrationy kind
of style here. That's it. That's our watermelon. It was pretty simple with using the wet-on-wet technique to blend in these
colors over here to get this cool
watercolor texture, and then using the
wet-on-dry technique to paint our seeds on top of it. Practice your watermelon and let's move on to
our next doodle.
7. Practice: Strawberries: Next up we're going
to learn how to paint loose watercolor
strawberries. We're using a lot of the same techniques
we've already learned, the wet-on-wet technique and practicing water
control with that. First, I'm going to do the
classic view of a strawberry. It's not cut, it's just in
the general strawberry shape. You can start out with the strawberry shape
with water if you want, which is like a loose heart
shape or we can start out with some diluted red. I'm going to start with
some diluted red which means I'm putting a
lot of water in it, I don't want it to be
super pigmented just yet. In general, it's a lot easier
to make something darker and add contrasting colors after than it is to take away colors if
you've added too much. I'm using some of
this diluted red. I'm going to make the first
half of my strawberry, which is again really
loose heart shape. It doesn't have the
angles that a heart does, but it still has this point at the end and deep
in the middle. Now, I'm just using water
to finish off the shape. That's my strawberry. Strawberries as
you know probably can come in lots of
different shapes, they can be a little
more round or smaller or longer or bigger. But in general, this is the
shape that I'm going for, this crooked heart shape. Once I have my red down, my really light value red
that's diluted with water, I'm going to take more. Going along the edges again, I'm just going to
add some of this darker pigmented red
to add some contrast into my strawberry
and to make it a little more
watercolorly and loose. I'm not going to
do it all the way, I want to leave some whitespace
because I'll show you why at the end of this tutorial. I'm doing the tapping technique to blend this in a
little bit better, make a little bit more of that watercolorly
texture that we love. Finally, we need to add
the leaves coming on top. We know we learned in the watermelon tutorial that red and green are
complementary colors, so we don't want them
to mix too much. But that said, I'm still going to add some
leaves on the top like this. I only want them to
mix a little bit, so I'm just going to add some
pointy leaves on the top. Again, this is a
loose strawberry, so I'm not caring so much about if my leaves look perfect, I want them to look
a little messy. Then I'm going to tap just to blend that in just a little
bit, but not too much. Because if you tap too much, then we're going to
get a lot of that brown watery mess we don't like. That's my loose strawberry. As you can see, it's a very loose representation
of a strawberry, it's basically me just
painting in the basic shape. But I use the wet-on-wet technique to create
some contrast here to give the strawberry a little
bit of shape and texture. I might even add just
a touch more in places and use the tapping technique to blend that in
even a little more. Finally, one of my favorite things to do with these loose watercolor
strawberries, because you can usually see
seeds on the outside of strawberries but they're often
like a beige seed color. It's hard to capture that
beige seed color with, I'm just mopping up
some excess water here, some excess pigment. It's hard to capture that seed color in this
loose watercolor style because it's hard to add lighter colors on
top of darker colors. One thing you can do is
after you've already painted your strawberry to pick up with your paintbrush some
highly pigmented red, so it's going be dark. Then just gently tap once or twice to splatter some
paint on your strawberry. That adds some fun splatters
to the side but it also adds that dotted texture that typically we
see in strawberries. If you want to add
a little bit more, if you want to manually add
some of that dotted texture, then I would take
a round zero brush , the small detailer. While it's still wet, just to dot some of
this heavily pigmented, so not tons of water, lots of heavy pigmented paint, and just add some manually in
after you splattered some. That gives a more loose effect of the seeds on the strawberry. As a fun bonus, you get these fun splatters on the side of the strawberry, which is one of my favorite watercolor techniques when I'm doing a more abstract version. Another option 2 is to get
a little bit more watery. Just to add some
more texture onto the side and splatter again, so you get just some bigger splatters on the side. That can be a fun way to frame loose watercolor
illustrations, to do some splatters
on the side. That is the front-facing
view of the strawberry. Now, we're going to do as if we had cut the
strawberry in half, which is a little trickier
but also very doable. For this, instead of
starting with paint, we are going to start
just with water. I have my Number 6 brush again. I'm going to still do that same loose off-kilter
heart shape and fill this with water. But the trick for the cut
strawberry is that we don't want too much water
for sure on this one because if you have looked at
a strawberry on the inside, it has a heart shape
or an oval shape. The fruit has contrast
in colors on the inside. We're going to use the
wet-on-wet technique to form that inside of the fruit. But in order for it to work, we need to use a
little bit less water because we're trying to make the inside of the
strawberry hold its shape. Keep that in mind and if you use too much water, that's okay. You can always start again. We have this little bit
of water laid down here. Now, because this
is more detailed, I'm picking up my zero brush. I'm picking up something
with a more diluted red first because again, so much easier to make something darker than to make
something lighter. Just in the middle of the
strawberry that I made, I'm going to make another loose
strawberry heart shape using some of this
diluted paint. It's okay that it's
going places but because I don't have
too much water, I don't want it to go all over. I still want the middle
to mostly be white, a little bit of white,
and I want outside around the edges to still be
a little bit of white. Once I've put down that paint, I'm going to do the tapping technique to just blend in some of those
tendrils a little bit better. Now I'm taking my Number 6 brush and I'm picking up
some darker pigment that's not quite as watery. Similar to how when
we painted the green around the watermelon, I'm going to paint this
red around the strawberry. Part of this red around the strawberry is
on the dry paper. Then the tip of it is
blending into the wetness. I don't want it to blend in
too much because I don't want it to completely get rid of that ring of
white that we have. I want the middle to
be white and then this ring of red and then
I still want this layer, at least a little bit of
this layer to be white. But while this is still wet, I'm going to go in with my detailer brush and
just with water and blend in the paint that I laid down on the outside with the wet inside. I'm just doing that so it looks a little bit more
naturally blended. Then once I'm done, I can go back and add in
more pigment as needed. I want to maintain
mostly these rings. Now I'm looking, it's a
little bit off-balance, I'm just going to add a
little bit more paint on this side with my
detailer brush, so it's not too much this time. Then I'm going to
pick up a little bit more of this diluted paint, not my really pigmented paint, but some of the diluted paint
that I had on the palette. I'm just going to
go back in and go over again while it's still wet, this ring in the middle, to make it just a
little bit darker. The rest of this strawberry, until we get to the leaves
is basically going to be a dance between those two moves. Until I get to a place where I feel like yeah, that
looks pretty good, which is I'm very close for me. I'm going to go back and
forth between adding a little bit of darker paint on the outside and blending it in, versus carefully blending it in so that I still maintain the
white space around it versus adding a little bit of the diluted paint
around the middle. Then I'm almost done.
That looks pretty good. Finally, I'm going
to add the leaves, which is going to be
basically the same process. As for the other strawberry, I'm going to start
with a little bit of pressure and then come
down and meet it. Basically, just doing some of these spiky leaves coming
out of a strawberry. I want the ends to be
a little spiky though. If some of your leaves don't turn out that way, that's okay. Well, that's put that the
way I'm [inaudible] Cool. We can also do the
splatter thing. I can just add some texture and add a little bit darker ring
around the edge here. That looks pretty good. That is a loose-cut
open strawberry and that concludes the
strawberry tutorial. We learned how to use the
wet-on-wet technique to create a loose uncut strawberry and
a loose half-cut strawberry. Practice this. Practice using the wet-on-wet technique going back
and forth between using your detailer brush and using your bigger brush
so that you can get a little bit more control
over where the paint goes while still maintaining
this blend chaos. Then once you've
printed strawberries to your heart's content,
let's move on.
8. Practice: Kiwis: Welcome back. Next up on our list
we have kiwis. Kiwis are super fun and again, use a lot of the same blending wet-on-wet
techniques that we've used for most of the summer
doodles in this class. First, let's do a kiwi that is just like
a slice on its own without any of the skin
and then we're going to do a kiwi that's cut open, but it still has the skin on it, so it's cut in half. They're all very similar,
just different angles. But let's get started. I'm going to use some
sap green for my kiwi. This is Winsor &
Newton sap green, which is just basically a little bit more
of a yellow green. It's darker, so it's like
an olivey kind of green but I want to use a
light color value of it, so I'm adding a lot of water to dilute it a little bit more. Similar to how we started off that first layer of
the whole strawberry, we're going to do a really
similar thing with this kiwi. I have this very light green and
it's very watery, so it's not going to dry immediately as soon as
I paint it on here. I'm just going to do the
outside of the circle here and I'm washing
all of my pigment off and only using water, I'm going to bring some of the
pigment toward the center. But the trick with kiwis is, I'm going to leave part
of the center dry. I don't want to leave it dry in a really symmetrical shape. I want to leave the center really uneven and it's kind of
off-kilter shape, but I'm leaving some of it dry. The middle is not
wet with water, it is dry and you can see
the paper coming through. Next, once we've done that, then I'm going to take a little bit heavier pigmented green. You might be able to guess, I'm going to go around the kiwi, just around the edges
with this more heavily pigmented sap green to add some contrast just around
the edges of the kiwi. Trying to show you, move my hand so you can see. It's okay if it's
a little rough, if your circles not perfect
because guess what? Kiwis are in nature, which means they
are not perfect. Once I have that down, you can either
leave it as it is. Or if you think it needs
some manual blending, use the tapping technique
just with water to tap some of the paint into each other so that it blends just
a little bit nicer. We're making this
rough gradient, like when we practiced with the popsicles around the edges. Then with your detailer brush, with your size zero brush, pick up some more pigmented
heavy side of the green. Then we're going to
do the same thing that we did around the edges. But instead of around the
edges of the big circle, we're going to do it
just a little bit around the edges of the
middle of the kiwi. Just a little. Then I'm washing
off all of the pigment. I just have water now on my detailer brush and using
the tapping method to blend in that pigment that
I just laid down. We want some of the middle
to be a little bit dark and the edge to be
a little bit dark. Then with my detailer
brush and clean water, I'm just going to make that white dry middle
just a little bit smaller. Now we have most
of the kiwi done, we just need the black seeds, and the black seeds go in two layers all the way
around this middle part. We can either wait for
this to dry and draw in the black seeds once it's dry
or if it's not too watery, which it doesn't
look like it is, then we can just draw some
black seeds right on there and embrace the
whole loose effect by knowing if I draw
some black on here, it's going to blend in. Because this is still
a little bit wet, so it's not going to
be completely dry. The dots are going to be
a little bit fuzzy but I like that effect with
these loose kiwis. I think we're going
to go with that. But then I'll also show
you what it looks like when you would do
it after it's dry. I'm just going to do a
slightly different angle so that you can see the
dots a little bit better. Here we have our still
slightly wet kiwi and I'm taking my detailer brush and picking up some black paint. Just around the circle, I'm going to do little rows of dots
just around the middle. I don't want them to be too symmetrical because this
is real life in nature and also we're doing some kind of loose fruits and so doesn't
have to be exactly perfect. I can get some of
them in the middle, most of them staying around
the edge and leaving the middle white. There you go. You notice because the fruit
is still a little bit wet, that the dots are
just a little bit blurry and that can
be a cool effect. Because it's still looks like almost you can see the
seeds underneath the fruit. Or if we're just going for
loose watercolor look, that is really in
line with that look. But if you decide you want
to do more detailed seeds that aren't fuzzy
like this then I just quickly painted another kiwi
over here and it's dry. Then you can still paint the seeds dotting
along the outside like this once it's dry and that
can look really cool too. It's up to you how
you want to do it either way we're
painting these seeds and a few layers
around the center of the kiwi and that
wraps up our seeds and now we're going to
learn how to paint the kiwi as a whole
as if it were cut in half and you can
still see the husk, the skin on the outside. To wrap up this tutorial, I'm just going to
quickly show you how to paint the kiwi as if
we were looking at it, like it was cut in
half and so you can still see the husk parts. Similarly as before, but with
a little bit less water, we don't want it to be
super watery because we're not going to paint
the same surface area. We're going to paint a
more skinny oval that's going to represent the part
of the fruit kiwi that we can see with that diluted water and then just using more water
to paint the middle. Then we're going to take
our heavily pigmented sap green to go around the
edges again, like that. This is very similar to what
or it's exactly the same, actually, the same technique as when we painted
the kiwi as before, except instead of an a circle, we're doing this oval shape to show the perspective of
looking at it from its side. Then I'm just using
the tapping method with clean water and a clean brush to blend in
some of this paint here. Then I'm going to wait to put the dots in for
just a little bit. But to paint the outside husk, the husk of a kiwi definitely
has some brown to it, sometimes it looks almost dark greenish brown and
so I'm going to take some burnt umber
and just put it in my green palette
over here and add just a touch of sap green to this burnt umber to give it
that slightly green tint. It's okay if we want to have a more diluted,
watery version. We're going to take this sap green tinted burnt umber over here and using my
size six brush, I'm going to form just
this half circleish shape and using water that's one of my
favorite techniques to control paint and to
control the wet-on-wet technique is to instead of using paint the
whole time to, once you've laid down part of the pigment to use
water to spread it. We're going to use
water to spread it and we just want it to
barely touch the outside of this kiwi so that the
husk still blends in. Once we have that wet
foundation, like we've learned, we can add more of
the color that we want a little bit darker so that we can control
it a little bit better. I like to do it just on
the side or on the top. Then some of this is
escaping into the kiwi, so I'm just going to
mop it up with my Q-tip a little bit and go back
in and blend some of that green in and then also use the tapping technique to blend in some of this
burnt umber over here. Some of my paint it looks
like has washed out. If that happens, if
you add too much like diluted paint and it looks like some of it's
really washed out, you can always go back in. I'm going to go back
in with a little bit more sap green just around the edges just to make that color shine
a little bit more. Shine as in be a
little more vibrant. Then I'm going to add just a little bit more
straight burnt umber. This isn't the diluted
with sap green anymore. I'm just a little bit of
that regular burnt umber at the top and blending it in
using the tapping method. Now, I'm going to use my
detailer brush to add in a few seeds just like that. There you go. That is
a kiwi from its side, that still has its husk on it. We practiced a lot of fine detail work with the wet-on-wet technique
with a detailer brush. I would definitely recommend
you practice kiwis a lot and see if you can get to a place
where you can really get these contrasting
monochrome blends here and getting
the water control nice enough so that you
can still get some blends, but also maintain
some semblance of shape with the blends
that you're creating. That's what we did with kiwis and now we're
going to move on to our final doodle before we practice and learn all the
steps for our final project. Practice these kiwis and
I will see you soon.
9. Practice: Blueberries: Last but not least, we're going to learn
some quick moves to paint loose blueberries and also loose raspberries
and blackberries. These have a lot less to do with the
wet-on-wet technique, we're still using
some very wet paint. For our final project, we're going to paint a wreath of all of the
things that we've learned, so a wreath with the
popsicles and the fruit, and the blueberries and raspberries and blackberries
are going to act as filler spots basically
because they are a lot smaller. For blueberry, I'm
going to pick up some Winsor & Newton
Indigo and I'm going to mix with it just
a little bit of Prussian blue to make it a
little less indigo. Winsor & Newton Indigo
can be a little bit much, but mostly indigo just with a little bit
of Prussian blue. Basically there are two
ways to do a blueberry. Blueberries have that little
ridge on the top if you look at them from the side and if you don't look
at them from the side, you can't really see the ridge. Blueberries you can paint like you're just painting
a circle if you want. You can fill them all
the way in like that, and maybe even leave a little
highlight space like that. That highlight space
is something that's important for these
loose blueberries. When I paint
blueberries circles, I usually like to leave
just a little bit of whitespace especially
when I'm doing these loose blueberries to show that they have some shine or
texture or whatever to them. They don't have to
be perfect circles when you paint
these blueberries. It's probably better if
they're not perfect circles. It makes them look cooler, more natural and realistic. I'm also going to
give you a side angle shot of these blueberries because I think it's easier
with these smaller berries to see that side angle shot. Here it is. One more time. I'm going to paint
these loose blueberries without the little ridge
on them from the side, just so you can get
a little better view than that bird's eye view that I usually have
with my videos. I picked up some of my blue
and I'm forming a circle. I like to form the whole
circle and then fill it in, leaving just a little
bit of whitespace. One more time. I'm going to form the whole circle with
my paint, like that, and then fill it in leaving
just a little bit of whitespace randomly around
one of the berries, just to show that
there's some texture, might be some shine
on that blueberry. That's the angle as if we're
not looking at the ridge. Now if we're going to paint that little
ridge of a blueberry, it's basically going
to be the same except instead of painting
the whole circle, we're going to paint only
like three-fourths of it. I'm going to start making
just a little line like that with my paintbrush
and a little line over here. We don't want them to
be super parallel, we want them to be pointed
out just a little bit. Then I'm going to make a circle that meets those
little lines like that. Then I'm going to fill it in and leave a little bit of
whitespace right there and paint a couple other lines to form the ridges that
we're trying to create, like the folds on top
of that blueberry. It's very loose, it's not a very
realistic blueberry. Painting blueberries like that, with those ridges, might even be easier with
the smaller detailer brush. Let's try it with that. I'm picking up my
zero-brush and I'm painting my little ridges as
guidelines knowing I'm going to put in more after
I finish the circle, and then with more paint, I'm going to paint around. Then using my brush, I'm going to finish
this little fold that we have up here, and add some details, and then just fill
in the blueberry, leaving just that little bit
of whitespace so that you can see this ridge on top. One way that I
completed that ridge is once I had these
two parallel lines, you might have noticed me go with the flat end of my brush. I've put some pressure down
and just made little waves with my fine detailer brush and then added some more
little ridges on the side, and then filled in a
circle just like this, leaving a little
bit of whitespace, making the ridges
a little higher. These ridges on this
blueberry is a bit much. If that happens, I think the blueberry might need
to be a little bigger, and so I just widened
that a little bit and that looks pretty good
now that I've done that. Blueberry in two different ways, the circle or with the ridge. Blueberries make great filler
berries for our wreath. Practice your blueberries. Then I decided to make the raspberries and blackberries to have
their own video, just so you can watch
these in bite-size pieces. So practice your blueberries and remember to embrace the chaos, embrace the loose nature of this watercolor technique
that we're practicing. Let's move on to blackberries
and raspberries.
10. Practice: Raspberries & Blackberries: Welcome to our video on
raspberries and blackberries. I'm leaving it in this side angle shot because
with these smaller barriers, I think it's a lot
easier to see. Raspberries and blackberries are probably the easiest of the lot. Blueberries are second
only to them because of that little ridge
thing that we have to do for the blueberries. But raspberries and blackberries
are also going to make a great filler berry
for our fruity wreath. For raspberries, you can
do red or a darker red. Sometimes I like to do red mixed with a little
bit of purple, so it's more like a red violet
or something like that. I'm mostly going to pick up
some red for my raspberries. I'm using my fine
detailer brush, not my number 6 brush. The thing to remember
when you form raspberries and blackberries
in basically the same way. Typically, raspberries are a little smaller
than blackberries, so I'm going to
paint those first. But I've picked up
some red and we're just going to paint
little circles. Sometimes the circles
can touch each other, but we want to leave some
whitespace in-between. These are loose
raspberries, remember, we want to leave some
whitespace in-between, so we're not just painting
a big blob of paint. We're basically going to
form shape of a triangle. But we don't want it to be super symmetrical or even anything like that because,
once again, nature. I'm just painting a bunch of these loose circular motions, leaving a bunch of whitespace and forming the basic shape of a raspberry just like that. That is one of my raspberries. I'm
going to call that good. If you want, you can
also add some green on the top with your detailer brush similar to how we added
with strawberries. Just going to do
a little tuft of green like that and that is
going to form our raspberry. Now, I'm going to do the
raspberry one more time and then we'll do
a bigger version, slightly bigger for
the blackberry. Once again, here's
the raspberry. I'm just forming off to the
side here, I'll show you. I'm just forming a very
imperfect circles, but I don't want them
to be super watery. I don't want to see that
it's like arraysed dot because that can just be a lot harder to maneuver on the paper. I don't want too much water, but I don't want too
little water either. My raspberries don't have to
be always be the same size, they can be little like that or I can make them be
a little bit bigger. Regardless, I'm just
putting a bunch of these circles together
and making sure to leave whitespace in some
areas so that you can still see the shape of
some of the circles because that is what indicates
to anybody looking at our art that these are raspberries and
not just blobs of red. There's my raspberry. Now with my detailer brush, I'm adding just
some tuft of green. I don't want it to blend in too much with the red because
red and green are complimentary colors and won't
look very good together. There are our raspberries, and now blackberries
are about the same, except slightly different color. I'm going to add some purple. One of my favorite
purples to do for blackberries is perylene violet. I like Winsor and Newton a
lot for perylene violet, but blackberries are
a really dark purple, so you can add perylene violet
and then even just like a touch of indigo to
that perylene violet as well to get this color for blackberries,
a deep violet. Remember, blackberries are just a little bit bigger
usually than raspberries. I'm taking that into
account when I form my loose uneven circles. They don't all have to
go in a row either. I sometimes to paint
not in a pattern. I have to force my
mind to do that until purposefully not go where my brain is
telling it to go. That's something
to keep in mind. I'm going to call that
good for my blackberry. Honestly, painting
raspberries and blackberries is a
really good warm-up, I think because it's a lot of fine motor skills
that you are using with your paintbrush and also
forces you to leave whitespace and to embrace this loose style that
we're going for. You're still getting the shape
of whatever fruit we want but it's not perfect. If I were to an even bigger one putting more pressure
on my brush, leaving whitespace so
that you can still see. That's an even more blendy one. Now I'm going to do the same
with the raspberries and add just a little crown of
green right on top there. My friends, that is how you paint loose raspberries
and blackberries. I know this video
might have seemed a little easy, but it's not. I think that learning how to control your brush
and learning to get this whitespace in the
middle so that you have that abstract loose look where some of the dots are touching each other and some
of them aren't, but you still have enough
whitespace so that you can see the outline of a lot of the
dots, it can be tricky. That's why it's a good warm-up because it helps
focus your hands and focuses your mind on keeping track of where
that whitespace is. Practice your raspberries and blackberries and
let's move on ahead.
11. Practice: Leaves: Like I said, we're going to be painting a summer doodle
wreath with all of these fun, fruity things that we learned, the popsicles and
also the fruit. Really quick before that, I'm just going to do
a quick tutorial on how to paint basic leaves. If you've never taken any
of my floral classes, then this will hopefully
be helpful for you. To form a basic leaf, it's important to
know the strokes. One of my favorite
strokes that I like to use for leaves is called
the crescent stroke, where I start like
below on a paper, putting not very much pressure. Then starting off with
little pressure and going thick and then letting off and going thin and I call it the crescent stroke
because you're basically making a
crescent to like that. They don't all have to look exactly like a crescent
like that one does, it's just the basic shape. In fact with leaves, mostly they should look
a little off kilter but with leaves on
wreaths especially, we want the leaves to help
form the shape of the wreath. Keeping that in mind that
some of your crescent strokes can definitely have a little bit of unique shape to them is going to make our
wreath look even better. That's the crescent stroke and then the way that
we form leaves, sometimes you can
form leaves just by doing the crescent stroke
like that to make them look bendy but the typical
leaves that we're going to form start
off with a stem. I'm going to paint a thin stem, putting very little pressure with my paintbrush and then
on one side of the stem, I'm going to form
one crescent strokes starting from the stem. It's always important
whenever I paint leaves, I always start from the stem
just because it's a lot easier to get that
nice point at the top. It's also a lot easier to
maintain this white space that I'm going to talk
about, loose floral leaves. We're not going to paint
in any of the details, any of the veins or whatever
that leaves usually have. Instead we're going to leave
just this little sliver of whitespace to indicate
that that's where the vein goes and
then I'm going to do another crescent
stroke that is going up to meet the first one to
finish forming the leaf. That is how we paint a leaf. I'm going to do another one where I'm going to
paint the stem. I'm going to paint a
crescent stroke and I'm leaving a little
bit of whitespace, just a sliver, I'm going to finish off
that crescent stroke. Sometimes the point
can be just like one singular point or it
can be a little bit looser. Honestly when I do these
crescent strokes for leaves, I try not to pay
too much attention to making all the
leaves look perfect. I just tilt my hand and
create movement even if it means leaving some of the leaves a little
bit wonky at the top, as long as it comes to a point. That's what I'm looking
for even if it has some rips and tears up here. That's okay because
some leaves do, and we just want our
leaves to look natural and that means giving them some shape like they're
bending in the wind. I would practice if I
were you, lots of leaves. I would also practice
the leaves in bunches. If you've painted one leaf, try painting another
one next to it. Remember that because
these are loose leaves, it's okay if you're not exactly sure where [LAUGHTER]
the next leaf came from, like if this leaf
is just coming out of these two in bunches, like these leaves are in bunches
and that's totally fine. When leaves cascade down
in bunches like this, that's when they look the
most realistic and when they look the most
realistic in wreaths. Leaves, for my part, if you've taken any of my
floral classes have always been really tricky for
me, notoriously hard. I don't know why that is, but because of that, I like to practice them a lot. I like to warm up
with leaves a lot. Those are the basic techniques. As a reminder, I almost always start
my leaf from the stem, so I never start it from
the top and go down. I usually do it in
those two strokes with the two crescent
strokes meeting at the top, and starting at the
stem like that. Those are just some basic leaves,and practice
those until you feel a little bit
comfortable and then let's move on to our final project.
12. Final Project: Part 1: We have learned how to paint so many fun loose summer doodles and now we're going to put
them altogether to be a fun, fruity, summer themed wreath. The most important thing when we paint wreaths is to think about placement and where
everything is supposed to go. If you are somebody who likes to sketch things beforehand, please, I encourage
you to do so. I typically just eyeball where things go and
make things up as I go along because
that helps me to be loose and not care so
much about being perfect, which is something that I love
so much about watercolors. But it's up to you. The most important thing that
we're going to remember, because I do like
to have some sort, is that when we place
elements on wreaths, we go from large to
small, big to small. Because it's a lot harder to put bigger things on top of smaller things when
they're already there. Like our priorities, we do the most important or
the biggest things first and then we use the smaller items to fill
in the space around them. In our case, we're going to
paint some popsicles first. I'm going to put the popsicles
down here at the bottom to be the crux of our wreath, I guess and then everything
else is going to go in a circle around
the popsicles. Popsicles first, then
watermelon, then kiwi, then strawberry, and
then the berries, which are all about the
same, and then leaves. That's the order in
which we are going to paint all of our fun doodles. You can paint all of
the doodles that we learned or you can only
paint some of them, totally up to you. But I'm going to attempt
to paint all of them to be one mega summer floral wreath. First things first is I always
like to have some guide. I like to pull these round palettes out to
act as a circular guide. Then I just like to lightly
in pencil draw around, lightly in pencil draw a circle. It doesn't matter if I get the whole circle as long
as I get the gist of it. That's the most important thing because I'm not really keeping track exactly
of the circle. I just want the circle to
act as a loose guide to my placement to where
I put all of my fruit. One other thing I
like to do when I draw in pencil
with these wreaths is if your pencil marking
is a little heavy, I like to take a kneaded eraser
and just pick up some of the lead so that the pencil
is as light as it can be. Because when we paint
on top of pencil, if the paint is still transparent so that we
can see the pencil, it's really hard to erase. I just did a kneaded eraser to get rid of some
of the heaviness. Now first things first, I'm going to paint
three popsicles. In fact, I'm going to paint the three popsicles that
we painted earlier. This is a great time to pull out all of your practice sheets, all of your reference sheets. These are the three
popsicles that I painted and I'm going to paint
them again on this wreath. A little bit smaller, but see how nicely
that the inside of this one turned out to be
all shaded. That's perfect. I'm going to put this
shaded one in the middle. Then I'm going to put these two blended ones on the outside. I'm also going to put them
at a little bit of an angle. Knowing that I'm going to
put them at the bottom, I'm also going to
draw little popsicle handles on their popsicle
sticks in some light brown. I don't want this to
go off of the paper, so I want to leave a little bit of room at the edge
of the paper here. I'm going to mostly paint these in the middle
of the wreath. I'm going to start
with my middle one and I know it's rectangular. I'm just going forward here. These are super loose. All of these doodles are supposed to be honestly
that you could use them for warm-ups or if
you're just looking for a fun afternoon of no
pressure painting, that's my goal for this class for these particular subjects that we're learning to paint. Because what better
time than summertime to just let loose and
paint some fun doodles. There's one popsicle. Now I'm using the tapping method with water to just
add a little bit more of that cool watercolor
texture in there. Now, I'm going to paint on this side my raspberry lemonade. I'm going to have
it overlap just a little bit that popsicle because I really like having
my watercolor elements overlap sometimes so
that some of this paint is just blending
in a little bit. It can pretty fun
and a cool effect. We don't want it
to blend in a ton. I might take a Q-tip and mop
up some of this up here. I'm putting down my water
first like we talked about. Then I'm going to take some of my Quin Rose and blend in this popsicle, blend in some
colors here to make my strawberry lemonade
flavored themed popsicle. [NOISE] I'm going to take some yellow and do
the same at the bottom here being careful because I know that purple
and yellow are complementary colors and
so if they blend too much, it's not going to
look super awesome. But it looks like the yellow
is overpowering the purple, so it's not looking
too terrible either. Then adding a little bit
more just around the edges here to add some
higher contrast. Now, I'm going to add just a
little more yellow down here before I go in with the tapping
method to manually blend, manually create just
a few more blends. I am going to call that
good for that one. Now for the other one, similar thing, similar deal. I'm going to put this one out a little bit of an angle too. I'm going to start with
the top of the rocket. I'm painting this in
water and have it meet just casually bump into that other popsicle because we like that loose
wet-on-wet watercolor look. At the bottom I'm going to do red and so that red is going to blend
in with this popsicle. Then using the tapping method, just quickly blend some
of that in right there. We don't want the red to go
too far up because remember, we want to have a little bit of white space in the
middle right here. I'm going to take my Q-tip
and mop it up just a little. Then take my water and push it down a bit as well so that
it stays right there. Then I'm going to make that edge not quite
so much of a corner. Now, I'm going to
take some Prussian blue and just only put
it around the top. After I've put the pigment down, I'm going to use the tapping
method to bring it even further and just watch as it blends in and
does its thing. But I don't want to go
too far because I also want to maintain that
white space in the middle. I'm going to take
some water and use the tapping method to blend this down so that it's dark on top and around the edges and then gets lighter. But also just has this
cloudy watercolor texture to it. There you go. Those are our popsicles. Finally, last but not least, I'm going to take
some burnt umber and mix it with yellow
ocher to create, to paint just little popsicle
sticks underneath here. Those are optional. You don't want to paint
popsicle sticks, that's okay. But I thought that they would
just be a fun little add. We've done our popsicles. Like I mentioned,
I'm going to keep my popsicles
contained down here. I might have some leaves and tendrils coming out at the end. But I'm going to keep
my popsicles down here to act as the bottom crest, I guess, of the wreath. We're showcasing these popsicles as for our fruity wreath. Next we're going to
paint our larger fruit. In the next video
we're going to paint the watermelon and the
kiwis and maybe if we have time the strawberries before the next video onto this
wreath. Stay tuned.
13. Final Project: Part 2: We've painted our popsicles and now we're going to
paint the larger fruit. If we refer back
to our list here, popsicles first,
then watermelon, kiwi, and strawberries. I'm going to paint watermelon
and kiwi in this video, and if we have time,
a few strawberries, but with watermelon, especially, watermelon are pretty big. With the kiwi and
strawberry and berries, I think I'm going to do
them sporadically around, but with the watermelon, I'm thinking I might just have one or two around the popsicles because they are second largest summer
doodle that we're doing. Make sure you have some of
our melon color prepared. Again, if you forgot, or it's been a
while since you've watched the watermelon video, I liked to do that opera pink
with just a little bit of yellow ocher to
create a melon color. I'm going to do that
melon over here. I think I'm going to have it peeking behind this popsicle. I'm going to form my triangle. It's going to go behind
this popsicle right here and paint that in. The popsicle is in the
front, important to note. I'm painting in water, my shape of my melon. Now I'm picking up my melon color that
I just made more of. Making a little more
because it turned out a little more colory
than I intended, and painting this melon color next to my strawberry
lemonade popsicle. Diluting it with water
sometimes and leaving that little bit of whites space for when we paint the green. Remember, we want to leave a
little bit of white space at the top for when we paint
the green on the top. I'm just going to add
a little bit more of the melon color around using the dotting technique to create some watercolor
texture here. Maybe adding a little bit
darker pigment around the edges just for
contrast, what have you. These are loose watermelon, so we don't necessarily need them to look
exactly perfect. Now I'm going to take my
green and paint above, and just barely touching
the wet part of that layer so that
it's still blends in but it doesn't blend in so much so that we
get a gross color, and also maintains
that little space in the watermelon that indicates where the green
part turns into fruit. All watermelon have
that clear melony spot. That's what that line
of water is for. I'm going to manually
blend in some things here. I think I'm going to do one
more melon. No, that's good. I'm going to call that
good. I'm going to paint in the seeds a little bit later, but right now it looks
like this popsicle is dried enough so
that I can paint in the ridges on the inside. First, we're going to use our paintbrush
just to have water. Then use the wet-on-wet
technique to add depth so that this popsicle
looks like it has these ridges on the inside
like a lot of popsicles do. There's one. Now we're going to do the same
thing over here. Doesn't really matter
if they're even. This is a loose popsicle style. Most important part
is to make sure that the shadow stays
on one side so that at least one side is somewhat darker
than the other because that shadow is what tricks our eyes into thinking
there's depth in here, that contrast between
the light part of this rectangle and the dark part. There we go. Now I'm going to
paint our kiwis. For the watermelon and the
popsicles, the big stuff, I put them all in the
same spot right here, but for the rest of the fruit, I'm going to put them
mostly sporadically around. Knowing that I want
to fill in this spot with something that
offsets the watermelon, I'm going to put two
kiwis right here, but then I'm going to put
another kiwi somewhere up here. First, with the Kiwis, I'm getting some
diluted sap green. I'm going to have one of
the kiwis hidden behind here leaving a little bit of white space in the middle. I don't want to paint over
the top of the popsicles, so I'm going to be
pretty careful not to. Then paint around the edge just like that. I'm going to blend in some of this green so it doesn't look quite so much like a line. Get some green
again and just put a little bit on the edges this way so there's some contrast in colors going on in here. I'm going to let that
dry a little bit. I'm still going to paint my
seeds there while it's wet, but I'm going to let
it dry a little bit longer while I paint
my other kiwis. Because I want this to
dry a little bit first, I'm going to paint my
other one that's up here. While this is drying
a little bit, I'm going to paint
this kiwi up here, and then I'm going to
paint this one down here. Because you know
exactly how that looks, I'm going to fast
forward to when those are finished so as to
shorten your watch time. I've finished these two kiwis and now I'm just
going to do one more. I'm not going to put any
kiwis with the husk this time on this particular
wreath just because I don't really think the brown goes with a color scheme but
neither here nor there. I am going to have these kiwis
overlapping a little bit. Maybe I'll make this slice
a little bit bigger. Still going behind. It's okay if I overlap on the other kiwi a little bit
because the green is fine. But for the popsicle, I'm going to be
careful not to touch most of the water to
the other popsicle. Leaving some white space and then adding the
green around it, blending it in, and adding some green around
this edge a little bit. Then finally I'm going
to add some of the black for the seeds. [NOISE] Those are our loose
kiwis for this wreath. This is very wet,
so the dots didn't really stay dots,
but that's okay. It looks cool I think. Definitely looks like a
loose watercolor kiwi, which is what we're going for. Here's two embracing chaos and imperfection and moving
full steam ahead. As you can see, the ridges here
dried really nicely. That's perfect. Next, we're going to paint
our strawberries.
14. Final Project: Part 3: Back to our fruity
summer wreath. We've painted popsicles and our watermelon and a few kiwis. Now we're going to
paint our strawberries. I'm going to do a combination of the whole strawberries
and then a couple of our cut in
half strawberries. Like I said, I like
to go in odd numbers, I'm thinking for
strawberries because they're our last bigger fruit I'm
going to do probably five. I'll probably do
three whole ones and two cut in half ones. I'm just going to
put them around sporadically and have them be different sizes because
strawberries can be small, but they can also be
really big if they have grown in a weird way. I'm painting this loose, heart-shaped we talked about. I put the pigment down first and then just spread
it around using water. Now I'm going to add in some
darker pigmented red to add some shading here [BACKGROUND]. I'm using my tapping technique
to blend in those colors. A lot of the techniques
we learned in this class, we use on all of these fruits, which is important to know. I am going to do just a little
splatter. Just like that. That's okay if it gets all
over the wreath because this is a loose
watercolor wreath and that's what I'm going for. I'm going to paint
the leaves after I've already painted
all the strawberries. I'm going to do another
strawberry down here. I'm going to make this
one a little more round in shape [BACKGROUND]. Added a lot of dense
pigment there. Now I'm just using water
to move it around. I'm going to have this
strawberry be behind the watermelon. Like that. Because I used heavy
pigments already, there's already a lot of good contrasts and blending
here for this strawberry, so that works out nicely. Then I'm going to do one
more whole strawberry. I think, next to this
kiwi and have it overlaps the kiwi a little bit like that. This one will be
a little fatter. Blend in with the water. Then to try to cover
up this green, it's okay if it's not completely
covered up, actually, it looks cool when it's not, so maybe I won't completely
cover it up over there. That's called watercolor
glazing, by the way, when you use
professional watercolor to paint dried layers
on top of each other, and you can see the
layer underneath it. That's called glazing
[BACKGROUND]. That's a really cool technique. I'm just going to shape the
strawberry a little bit more. Then maybe do a little
splatter on both of these [BACKGROUND] and call that good for the whole strawberries. Now I'm going to go back and
do two open strawberries. I'm going to do one
open strawberry here. Might be a little smaller. Remember, I'm going to go in
with some diluted red to do the center to dot some of
this in the red center. Then go along the
outside, along the edge. It's barely touching the edge. Then I'm going to use water to blend those in. That is going to form my loosely shaped
cut-open strawberry. Just like that. I'm going to paint
another one here. Then I'm going to paint the leaves and finish off
this layer of strawberries. I have painted the rest of my strawberries and I
actually, at the last minute, decided to add just a couple
more kiwis to fill in the wreath before we add in
our berries and our leaves. Now I'm going to finish off the strawberries just by
adding the leaves on top. This time I'm using
my detailer brush. I want the tops to just be
crazy pointed on these leaves. I'm not really caring much
where they're coming from, I'm just making sure that
the tops are pointed. This one is upside down. A lot of these
have already dried when I'm painting these, and that's totally cool too. That's a good way. It's not a bad way to paint
these leaves on top, just because we know what
happens with red and green. Some of these strawberries, actually it looks like even though we did that
splatter technique, some of the splatters
have melted in, you can't see them very well. I'm actually going to
take my detailer brush and just do another tap, tap, tap, tap to get even
more splatters on here. I don't care if they go
on to the other fruit because this is a loose
watercolor wreath and I think it looks
cool [BACKGROUND]. While we're at it, let's just add the seeds to this
watermelon that has dried. I'm going to add some seeds, all going the same way. Maybe one is coming up from
underneath this popsicle. [BACKGROUND] There are my seeds, that finishes off our
strawberries layer. Next, let's paint in
our other berries.
15. Final Project: Part 4: You may have noticed that
before I ended that last video, I didn't put the leaves
on these strawberries, but I have now remedied that. Now let's draw some
filler berries. First, I'm going
to do blueberries. I'm going to get my
blues over here, and I'm going to put
some blueberries over, honestly, I'm just going
to put them everywhere. Some of them in a clump like a cluster together like that. I'm leaving some white
space, as you'll notice. Some of them going to have
overlap this kiwi right here, and even some other fruit. If you do clumps, again, my rule is I like
to do odd numbers just because I think
they're a little bit more pleasing to the eye , for whatever reason. I'm sure there's
science behind it, but I'm not going to
expound on that right now. [LAUGHTER] Then I'm going
to put blueberry here, blueberry here, and blueberry here, and blueberry here. Maybe I'll just do a little
clump of three right here. I'm not really focusing on the blueberries with the
fold at the top that we practiced just because I'm
not feeling it this time. But notice I am twisting
my brush to be in a circle that's leaving some brushstrokes that
leave these cool, like streaks on the
outside of the blueberry. I think that looks super
cool with the watercolor, so I'm leaving it like that. Next, let's take our detailer brush and
paint some blackberries. [NOISE] I'm just going to paint a few. I think probably, let's see, probably maybe five
blackberries and three raspberries we can
get in here. Let's try. One, and I am not really caring as long as I have enough white-space in-between
these berries to see. I'm going to call that one
of my smaller blackberries. Maybe we'll do a bigger one
next to it, right here. Just like that. I'm eyeballing it, which can be a fun thing, can be a stressful thing, [NOISE] it's up to you. I'm going to put one right here, I think, [NOISE] and one over here. We're going to have this one
be going like upside down. Like that. What do I have? 1, 2, 3, 4. You will have a clump
of raspberries here. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 [NOISE] two more. Six, and maybe just one nestled
down there would look cool. Add a little bit more pigment
to that one since it's overlapping these guys, there. There are [NOISE]
blackberries and now let's add our raspberries. I did seven blackberries, now I'm going do
five raspberries, but we'll see how it goes. I said I wanted to do
a clump over here, 1, 2 facing this way. I'm just putting these
dots in random places, just in the general
shape of a raspberry. I fill this one out
a little bit more. Then we'll have number
3 go right here. 1, 2, 3, then put one right here and maybe just one over here. There are our blackberries and raspberries we added
just around the middle. Now I'm going to add some
leaves just at the top. I painted just some
little leaves on top of some of the
raspberries and blackberries, not all just some. Now, we're going to finish off our summer wreath by adding
some leaves and that'll make it look a little bit more
full and make it look more like just a fun mixed wreath. Last painting video coming up.
16. Final Project: Part 5: The very last step to any
wreath that you paint, whether it's florals or
just leaves or whatever, is to paint the leaves. That's what we're
going to do using the basic leaf techniques
that we learned earlier. Basically, I'm just
going to paint leaves wherever I see a spot that could use
some extra filling and I'm going to do it both on the outside and on the
inside of this wreath. Just in general, for a rule of thumb when you're
painting leaves, if they go in some
general direction and follow the laws of gravity, then that makes them look
a little more realistic, so I'm having all of my
leaves mostly go this way if that helps. This is one of the reason
why I think painting warm-up leaves is good
just to get you used to painting leaves on wreaths because I think the hardest part about leaves for me
is knowing where to place the leaves and I honestly
whenever I paint these, I try to just not worry too much about
where the leaves are. As long as they're all falling
and cascading and one in the same general direction even if some of them are pointing in opposite
ways, that's okay. That is the look that
we're going for. I'm doing these and
remembering that I don't want my leaves to
look really straight, I want them to look
like they have some curve to them,
some natural curve. I'm going to skip the popsicles for now and maybe not put leaves in between them, but we're using this
two stroke method that we talked about
in the leaf section, and some of these I want to be pointing down
because of gravity. Some of them can be pointing up, but when you paint in clumps is generally when
they should be going in the same general direction. For the most part,
we want our leaves to be going in this direction up here because we're going to say that's the direction that the wreath was
initially formed. I'm painting some leaves
in clumps up here. Some of them I'm having
fall cascade down and not all of the
greenery coming out of them have to
be leaves like I can have just some little blades of grass becoming
out of here too, that can look cool. Usually, I do that after
I paint all the leaves, but I just wanted to mention that having just a little
blades of grass coming out of here and like loose
shapes like that. I'm letting my hand just gently form these leaves
and sometimes they look like they're perfect and sometimes they don't
and that's okay. We're just letting
the responsibility go and painting the general
shape of leaves for our wreath because if you focus too much on
having things look exactly perfect for loose
watercolor style, it's no good for anybody. It just you feel inadequate. You feel like everything
you're painting is terrible and it shows
in your painting that you spent way too
much time focusing on the details when the magic of
loose watercolor is that it looks abstract at least that's the way that
I think about it. We're nearing the top. At this point, I'm
going to flip, so it's easier for me to
paint knowing that generally, we're trying to go
in this direction, but some of the leaves are going different directions just
to add some diversity. Always starting from the stem, that's just generally the way
that I can get my leaves, the way that I like them, so I always start from a stem. Just about done here. You can go a second round to put two layer some leaves
on top of each other, that can be fun. These leaves are dry right here, so if I put just like
another little layer of leaves on some of the
clumps that have dried, that can add some nice
fun textures well, good to have some
of those layers. That's what I'm doing now. I'm just going around and
adding a second layer, not as many leaves in
this second layer, but to the leaves I
have already dried. If I put just a few on top, then adding more layers
only adds more depth. Then after I add
the second layer is usually when I go back and add blades of grass
that are peeking out. Now I'm going to go and just
add a few wisps here and there just like that and I'm moving my hand just
a little bit so they can so the grass isn't
always straight it has a little bit of shape
and movement to it because that's what makes it
look more realistic and more like it belongs
in a wreath I think. For the most part,
I think that's it. I'm going to leave the
popsicles leaf-free. I think it looks
cooler like that. There is our summer wreath. Just in general, this recipe for wreaths is how you
build wreaths always. With that, how I built loose floral wreaths always
is having the subjects I want and I put
them on biggest to smallest and then I add leaves
and filler things last. I think that this looks really cool and I'm so excited to see all of your
final projects, so if you loved
what you've made, then I would love to see it. Please feel free to post
on Instagram and tag me. My handle is this writing desk and also please post it
on the project gallery, especially if you want feedback. If you have a question, then I can give you the answer to that
question or what I think about your piece in
the project gallery. That's probably
the best place to come if you have a
question about any of the elements of this class or any of the elements of
your final project. Also, posting to
the project gallery helps other people to see it. The more projects that are
posted on the project gallery, the more people can
find this class. I encourage you to do that
if you loved this class. Also, if you loved this class, please leave a review even
if it's just really quick, it really helps for the class
to gain attraction so that other people can enjoy this
fun summer class as well. I always love to hear
your feedback and thoughts so that I can make
all my classes even better. I'm going to talk
a little bit more about this in the recap, but for now, you
did an awesome job. I can't wait to see all of your projects and thank you so much for
taking this class.
17. Recap: Thank you so much again
for joining me for my class on loose
watercolors, summer doodles. Hopefully, you learned something about painting
different subjects, the berries and the fruit, and the leaves and
the popsicles. But more than that, I hope
that you came up with a result that you really loved
and are proud of. Here's my wreath again, just for you to look at. Honestly, it came out even better than I
expected it would. I think it looks really cool and I can't wait to
see all of yours. I would love for you to post your projects in the
project gallery. That way I can give you some feedback if you have
any questions and also me and the other students
can show you some love and give you all the compliments for what I'm sure are
awesome projects. If you also want to post your projects on
Instagram, please tag me. My name is thiswritingdesk or my handle on Instagram
is thiswritingdesk. I do features once every week or a couple of weeks for all of my
Skillshare classes, so if you tag me there's a very good chance
that you'll be featured in my
Instagram stories. The last thing is if you
really loved this class and you want other
people to be able to take this class
and other classes, the best thing that
you can do for me is to leave a review. Leaving a review on Skillshare, the more reviews I have, the more people are able to see it based on the way that
classes are organized. I would really love to hear your honest thoughts,
your honest feedback. I appreciate all
of the time that you've given me for
this class and I really hope that you came away with
something that you loved. Thank you again for joining
me and see you next time.