Ultimate DIY: How to Use a Drill - The Complete Course

1. Welcome!: Hello and welcome. We're glad you could join us for this course. My name is Shaun. Let me tell you a bit about myself. I've been very privileged to grow up with the dad that actually knows how to do things, fix things around the house. And I sat one day and I thought, well, what will happen if it's not around there's no one, I can go to, and then I thought, Well, perhaps he can teach me all these things. So I thought, well, if he can teach me, he can teach you, he can teach my children. And this is my dad, Andre. He will help me with the courses. It'll be his hands you see in the videos and I will assist where I can. And I'd love to teach how to do some projects and complete them successfully. And as we progress, we will teach you more and more about the different tools that we'll need to do those. In course 1 will teach about a drill. Show you how to use it and share with you a few tips and tricks. 2. Choosing your Drill: There are many different drills available on the market, each with its own use. You certainly don't need to buy them all. All you need is a good all-rounder to get you going. Let's take a look. There are two main types of drills on the market. The corded, which are run by the mains and the cordless, which are battery operated. The cordless ones handle much better than the corded one's since there's no cord in your way. When choosing a battery-operated drill, make sure to buy the lithium ion batteries. These are much lighter than the nickel cadmium batteries and store their charge for much longer. These units are available in 12, 18, and 24 volts. It is recommended to buy a higher voltage. However, this 12 volt really impressed us. We must point out that the corded roles can normally not be used as a screwdriver since it doesn't have any torque settings, the cordless unit does have torque settings, so you can use it as a screwdriver. Now, on the screwdriver function, it is much quicker to use the drill than an old-school screwdriver. You might want to chuck this away. There are additional settings on the screwdriver function that'll help you control the tightening of the screw so you don't over-tighten it or strip the screw. Now with the hammer or impact drill, this is specifically used for drilling into masonry or concrete walls. This function does exactly what it says. It hammers the drill bit into the wall as you drill the hole. 3. Lesson 1.1 Removing and Charging the Battery: Here we have two types of drills. The one has a battery at the bottom of the grip, and the other one has got it inside. The convenience of this is if you work in small confined spaces, of course it's much more manoeuvrable. We have to charge these batteries before we can operate the drill. So let me show you how to take them out. This one has got a tab in the front. You push it down and pull it forward. And this one is got a tab on both sides. You see, which you just press in simultaneously and pull it out. And then we are ready for charging them. Here we have three different types of chargers. All of them have indicators. This one's got a green indicator. This one is got a green and a red. This one has got red, green, and yellow. That one does not have an indicator showing that the battery is malfunctioning. This one has got a red indicator. If the battery is no good anymore, that one will light up. And this one has got a yellow one there that would light up when there's something wrong on the battery. When you push that one in there, the indicator will start flashing. Once it's full, it will remain green, not flashing anymore. The same with this one. Starts flashing because it's charging. And when it stops and it lights up green only. Then it is charged. This one has got slots on both sides here and there. And just hold your hand firmly there and push it in until you hear a click. And the red indicator will show that it is charging. When it is full, the green one will light up. Now we can see the green light is not flashing anymore. So that means it's fully charged, that one as well. And this one is still on its way. Incidentally, I once found that this charger was not charging anymore. I just opened it at the bottom and replace the fuse. So if you see that happening, just see if they have fuses. Don't do replace them unnecessarily. Okay. So let's take them out. Hold it there. You will see this one has got that little tab. there, just push it up and you can pull it back. That one we can just pull it out. That one is done and that one we still have to wait because it's not full yet. To insert the batteries is quite simple. You just slot them in like that - you can see - till you hear the click. And the same with this one. You can see where the contacts are over there at that spot turn it around And click them in. 4. Lesson 1.2 Composition and Functioning of the drill: Let's talk about a drill itself. You will notice that the Drell comes in four sections. The body, the selector, the torque sittings, and the chuck. It also has the trigger button over here and a slider through there. Now the trigger button, when you depress it, it goes slowly. And if you depress it further, it increases its speed. The slider button there determines the direction, clockwise or anticlockwise. When you put it in the middle, it is actually locked, which is very useful when you put it in a toolbox that it doesn't depress and drain the battery. You will also notice there's a little light there which is very handy when you work in dark spaces. The buttons has got an arrow there. And the reverse arrow, there, the forward arrow makes the chuck turn clockwise. And if you depress it, it reverses. Of course, when it goes clockwise, that is when you drill a hole or you fasten a screw, when you reverse it, it loosens the screw. On the top section here you will notice a 1 and a 2. Now this selector selects the speed. One is the slowest speed at two is the fastest speed. In a slower speed, it is also a little bit stronger. The selector here allows you to select for screws. Drills and a hammer drill, which you use when you do holes into the wall/masonry. The selector on screw also uses the torque settings here. It only works with a screw. 5. Lesson 1.3 DEMO Torque settings: Remember we talked about the torque settings. When you do use them, remember to adjust your drill to screws only. That is the only adjustment where torque settings is applicable. Now I'm going to set a torque setting, say on eight because I want to show you the effect on these screws. The further you set these, what we want to achieve is to get the screw head flush with this without making further adjustments so that all the screws will go in the same. You see it stops there. Which means this is not tough enough. Let's put it on 10... 12. You see the drill point stops. Let's see this one. You see it's the same depth. So that means 12 isn't enough. So let's put it on 15. 15 is a little bit much because it drives it further in. So let's put it on 14. 13. I think 13 is the way to go. That means you can set it on 13 and run with the screws. I hope that explains it well. I just wanted to talk about the impact screwdriver that is also on the market. This machine has a hammer action in the clockwise or anticlockwise direction. It is a same action you achieve when you have a nut that is very tight and you want to loosen it and you can't, then you have to use a hammer to help you like that. It has exactly the same action that this impact driver gives you. It is though a little bit slow, but it saves you a lot of strain on your wrist because all the action and the torque is in that direction. Let me show you. As you noticed. It is not as fast as the other machines, but it is your choice if you want to buy it, it is a screwdriver only. 6. Lesson 1.4 The Chuck and Jaws: The chuck is the part that holds the bit or the screwdriver bit. You can see there are three jaws there. When I turn this, they open creating a bigger hole. If I turn it in the opposite direction, they close to create a smaller hole forth thinner drill bits. And if you are brave. You can grab it like that. Depress the button and open it fast or close it fast. Okay. So if I, I open it like that, I can insert a thicker drill and hold that again. Okay. And then you can just tighten the chuck like that. And then you're ready to drill. If you want to loosen it, grab it, loosen it like that. And now I'm going to insert a thinner one. You can see the hole there is much smaller, which can take a thinner drill. You have to open it a little bit more. Okay. When you do this one, it often happens that you grab the drill between two of the jaws and then it is not aligned. It can be skew. So be careful to put it right in the middle, whilst turning that. And then you can tighten it the same way and you are ready to drill again. Okay gere we have an example of the, I Always say all school chuck, but course you still get them. As you can see. It works similar. This turns like that or like that. But it takes a long time. You can also grab it lightly like that, to push out the jaws. You see, or reverse them but just grab them lightly because if you grab it too tightly, that might just hurt you. Okay, I'm going to insert a thicker drill. There's a thicker drill. Grab it likely until its close. And then you tighten it with a chuck key like that. Just inserted properly there - in. Then turn it. Okay. If you want to loosen it, of course it's the opposite direction anticlocks, take it out. And then you pretend to be brave. Grab this lightly. Push the jaws out so that you can put the smaller one in. Okay? And if you open them too far, it can happen that it grabs between two jaws instead of three. It's not centered. So you have to be careful to get it right in the center. And then you tighten it again. But as you can see by now, it is much easier to use the new kind of chuck. 7. Lesson 1.5 The Rotary Hammer: Now, let me tell you a story about my experience with masonry drilling. Many, many years ago, me and my dad, we had to do some drilling, drill some holes into very old concrete. And the older concrete is the harder it gets. And the only machinery available was a concrete drill, the hammer drill. And you know what? If I think of that, I'm so happy I'm not there anymore. You literally had to drill a whole as deep as you could get after about 15 to 20 minutes, you put it down. And then we had a three-tipped round chisel. And then you had to hammer it, breaking the concrete inside. And then it was the hammer drill's turn again. And it literally could take an hour, and a half to two hours sometimes to get one hole in. And many years later, the designers came to our rescue. Thank heavens for that. What they designed was the rotary hammer, which was a completely different machine. And using the rotary hammer, drilling a hole within 20 seconds. Wow, I couldn't believe it. It was worth the money. Here we have our rotary hammer. It consists of three sections. The back section here houses the motor, the middle section has got the gears, and the front section as the chuck. It is a rather heavy machine, so you need a grip at the back and the front. The front grip, you can adjust like that if you need to work like that, or whichever is convenient in your specific situation. This section over here has got the variable speed button, which you press in and it will start and to further you press it in the faster it goes. It's a variable speed. If you want to keep it in position, you can just press that button and then it will turn by itself without you having to depress that. And if you want to unlock it, press it again and then it's released. It also has a forward, forward and reverse arrows there, which is this. You adjust it there because sometimes when a drill gets stuck and you can't get it out, you have to put it in reverse and then pull it out. The section over here has the gears and it allows you drill only drill and hammer. Hammer only. You depress that button, turn it there to adjust it until it clicks in position. And again until it clicks in position. Normally, we use it like that. You will notice that these two drill shafts differ. This one is smooth all around, which is used in a normal chuck. This one has got slots in there, which is used for the rotary hammer. Let me explain that. You see this slot and that slot over there. Holds it in the chuck. Inside the chuck is a ball bearing that side, and that side which holds it in position. The slots here, allows the drill to travel in and out as the hammer action takes place. Let me show you how to insert it. You simply just push it in there and twist it until it clicks in and then it's in position. And that shows you the total hammer distance that this can travel. And that's why it's a much more effective machine. If you want to take this out, you have to push the collar back and then you can pull it out. Simple as that. Just a word of advice. If you want to buy one of these, make sure that you buy one that has a drill function, hammer drill and hammer only function. Because on the market, you will find that you also get one that has a hammer drill function, a drill function, but no hammer only function. And I think it's advisable to buy the one that has the hammer only function because you will probably need it. 8. Lesson 1.6 How to use the drill: Needless to say, it is given practice whenever you drill a hole into material that you should stay perpendicular to the surface into which you drill. If you are not sure how to do that or you did not have enough experience, what you can do is take a piece of timber that is exactly square, two pieces in fact. Then you can put it like that, Hold it in position. And the drill, keep it flush with that surface as well as with that surface in the corner. Now you can see that if you drill now keeping it flush with both surfaces, that you will draw exactly 90 degrees to the bottom surface. Of course, that is now a long drill, a thinner drill is shorter as well. Now you can see the length there. It will not work because now the this timber is too thick, simply, just dike thinner pieces. And it's the same principle. Keep the drill exactly against both surfaces in a corner and then you will drill a 100% perpendicular. You will remember the trigger is a variable speed trigger. If you press it lightly, it goes slowly. And if the further you press it, the faster it goes. The purpose of that is when you drill into hard material like metal or very hard wood, you should use a slow speed. When you drill into metal. Don't even attempt to use a drill bit that is not sharp because all that will happen because of the friction. It will not drill properly and it will heat up and you will have to cool it down, of course, every, every now and then, but it will heat up and lose its hardness. And then you have to change the bits anyway. So use sharp bits only if you drill into metal. If you draw into hard wood. So I left this here so that we can drill perpendicular. Just apply enough pressure to go in. You will feel how fast you can go. If it stops drilling, then you know, I mean, if it stops going in, you will know that the flutes is full of debris, just remove it, clean it, and then you can go in again. If the wood was very soft. You can go at a fast speed. Remember if the wood was very hard, the drill bit will probably be hot. So don't touch it with your fingers. Just use a brush. 9. Lesson 2.1 Twist bits & the Brad Point bit: Now that you know your drilling machines and you're all powered up and ready to go. We need to start discussing drill bits. Now the subject of drill bits is a very specialized field. However, we chose a few to discuss that we feel you will be using in your projects. The first one we're going to discuss is the high-speed steel twist, bit commonly designed for metal, but it can also be used for wood and plastic. You will notice that it has a very flat point, which cause a drill bit to wonder in wood and in steel when you start drilling. There is a solution for that, but we will discuss it later. It is also fluted to get rid of the debris as you are drilling. There are also, of course, different thicknesses available, as in all drill bits. The next one up is a brad point bit - specially designed for wood and plastic. It cuts much neater than a twist bit. And it has a sharp point which keeps it exactly in a position that you want it when you drill. It's also available in different thicknesses and very short lengths. 10. Lesson 2.2 DEMO Twist Bits: Now let's start demonstrating all the different drill bits that we talked about. The first one I want to show you is a twist, bit. First, of course, take the drilling machine, makes sure the adjustment is there on drills only because if its on drill, then the torque setting does not work and it stays firm. Right? I want to show you, we're going to... I'm going to make two lines here. So I want to drill a hole in there and in there. let me show you what is happening with the twist bit. Remember I said that it has a flat point. It's not sharp, so it tends to wonder when you start drilling, it does that. But of course, once you have a lot of experience, you can press it down hard and start slow and then it will stay there. But for the sake of safety, let's show you what to do. First of all, just take the punch, put it exactly on the cross. There and give it a sharp blow. Then where, that is, is exactly where your whole will start. It will not wander. Right? Secondly, if you want to drill straight through and you want the two sides of your material to look neat and tidy, then what you need to do, let me show you if you drill straight through - this side is tidy, but that side is not what you want. So to eliminate that problem, what you should do is the following. The start again, but now you use the thin bit. Remember I said in the beginning, you must be careful if it's a thin bit you must clamp it right in the center; because if you clamp it between two jaws, then that is what is happening. So just be careful, just be sure to put it right in the center. Okay? So I want to drill, I want the host straight through, but I wanted neat both sides. But how will I know where to start from the other side? Because I'm going to do it from two sides. And that is why use a thin one first. Keep the drill perpendicular, straight through. Remember, if the drill, doesn't go through easily, remove it and just clean the flutes. Now I've got a mark there, and I've got a mark on that site. Now I change bits so now you drill half way and stop, turn it around. And then you can see we've got a much better finish than you would have had here. It rarely happens, but if it does, you want to drill at an angle, then it causes a problem. Let me show you how to do that. Just mark the place where you want the hole. And now you want to start drilling like that. But to can't, so just start straight down at a 90 degree angle for one or two millimeters. And then you can tilt the drill and do your angle. Right? I hope it helps. If you need to drill a very small hole just go in the one or two millimeters but don't go into far before you start going down like that. Otherwise, you might just break the drill. 11. Lesson 2.3 Bits for Larger and Deeper Holes: During your projects, you might find the need to create holes that have a bigger diameter than what the available twist bits allow you. We have a solution to that problem and we're going to discuss that now. The first one we're going to discuss is the spade bit, but before we get to that, I just want to point out that the six millimeter spade bit is much longer than the six millimeter twist bit, which is very convenient in some situations. Now the spade bit do go to much larger diameters as you can see unfortunately though, it doesn't give you a very clean and smooth cut. You can also see that it has a sharp point which keeps the bit in position when you start drilling. The next one up is the turbo wood drill bit. You will notice that it has a tapered threaded point, which has a tendency of pulling the bit into the material that you are drilling. It has a very fast cutting action. It has four flutes and four edges, which cuts into the material. And it gives you a very fast cut. The next one up is a forstner bit. This bit is used when you need a flat bottomed whole. It gives a very neat and clean cut, much neater than the previous ones. You will notice that it has a flat cutting edge and the sharp point, which helps keeping the bit in position while you drill. If you need to drill a hole deeper than what the length of the drill bit allows you to, we have a solution to that problem. There is an extender available on the market. When you use the extender, you must make sure that this screw aligns with that indent at the back of the drill bit. If you do not do that, you might sit with the drill bit inside the material and the extendes in your drill when you pull it out. When you use the extenders, especially with a spade bit, you will find that you have to take them out, drill 50 millimeters, take them out to get rid of the debris. Go 50 millimeters deeper, take them out, get rid of the debris. The turbo bit is a little bit easier. You also have to go in and out, in and out. But the flutes over here gets rid of the debris to the back of the drill bit. And then whilst drilling it, you pull the drill bit out, and then you get rid of the debris and go back in. 12. Lesson 2.4 DEMO Turbo Wood Drill Bit: Now let's start the wood turbo drill, bit, you will remember this one. It has 1,2,3,4 flutes and also for edges to cut. And this one has got that threaded point, which keeps it in position that help maintain the direction when you drill. But you will understand that this is a negative. If you, if you want to drill on the edge of a board, because if you put a screw in there, it will crack the board. Of course, when you do it on the side or on big material, that is not an issue. But to eliminate this problem, let me show you what to do. I do not want to use a punch there because the punch can also cause the cracking. Therefore, I use this thin drill bit. But because you need to have it in the middle, you first have to find the middle. Let me show you - adjust this sliding square. I'm going to do it like that. Make a line that side and a line that side. And then it's much easier to see where the middle is. To confirm the middle, you just do that on both sides to see if you're okay. Now you make a hole wherever you have marked it. Make sure you stay in line with the timber. The side of the timber like that. That whole though is too small. You have to make a bit of a thicker one to accommodate the thread in the speed drill. Just go in, say for half an inch or 10 millimeters. And now we can change to our speed drill bit. Making sure of course that this line and that line stay straight. Pull it out to get rid of the debris. You can go as deep as that if you need to. 13. Lesson 2.5 DEMO Forstner vs Spade Bit: Here I have the foster bit as well as a spade, but I motivation why I wanted to use a fastener bit at not despite, but if I wanted to make a hole in this material, but I do not want to go straight through and the spade, but because it has got that long point, they will go straight through because before it is deep enough into the material, so therefore I cannot use it. The guiding pen here is much shorter, which allows me to go very deep without going straight through. So now I have the question again of how deep should I go? I do not have a depth stop the ring cell. I must make another plan. And that plan is the following. You can just use any type that you have on hand. Adjust the depth to your requirement. And that is exactly how deep I wanted. Just put the type around it. And day you don't need the depth stop lock thing. See they can see. I am level with the surface and I'm happy. If though I want to drill a hole straight through, I cannot use a fastener bit. Let me show you what happens. Not the result you want. So therefore, it's better to use a spade. But in this case, let me make a hole with a spade. But if you go straight through with a spade bit, the same thing will happen that happened with the Forster, but it will break the other side. So let me show you what is the advantage of using this one and turn it around. And because of that sharp point going straight through, you already have your mark there. And now it can do it from this side. But don't push too hard. Otherwise it goes straight through and might damage the surface on the other side. C, Now you have got a clear hole on both sides and you don't have that problem. 14. Lesson 2.6 Hole Saws: Sometimes you need much larger holes like these. To create those we use whole source. Let's see how they work. Now here we can see different sizes of host source. In order to use these whole source, we need to purchase Ann Arbor. There are two different types available on the market. The one has slots that you use in rotary Hamad row, and the other one is goes into a normal chuck that is at least 13 millimeters thick. Now let's talk about the arbor itself. It consists of the pilot drill bit, the body with the Allen screw, that whole sad robot to alignment pins and the rotating disk that moves those pins in and out, as you can see. And the shaft that fits into the drug chuck, the hole saw has got a threaded hole they and 1234 holes into which those alignment pens FET. When you insert it here, you just turn it until the two surfaces touch. And if you do that only this and you use it like that, you will find that when you are done, you want to remove the hole so it is very tight and you can hardly move it or you need pliers or some manpower. That is the purpose of these two buttons. Let me show you. You turn them back. After you did that, you turn him back a little bit. And then you locate the two pins, aligning two of these holes, opposite holes. And then you turn the disk until the pens per truth strikethrough the bottom of the hole. So and then you will notice that this, this little bit of play day, which makes it very easy to remove once your job is done. 15. Lesson 2.7 DEMO Hole Saws: If you need to make a hole for a waste pipe or something through the side of the cupboard in the kitchen, you will need to use the whole source. I've got three sizes here. The one that I will choose is the 50 millimeter one. Just under two interests because the pipe that I need to put through the side of the cupboard is 50 millimeters. Therefore, this one is the appropriate one. Remember the Oba that we talked about? It just insert that. Make sure that these spins aligned with two holes day little bit back, and then tighten it properly. Inserted in this rotary hammer. But make sure it is adjusted on drill only. I'm using this one because it has more power than the battery draws. I prefer this one for this job. Okay. So you didn't have to press too hot. But don't use to foster speed otherwise would do two starts burning. Get rid of some liberty. As you can see now, it breaks out on the other side. Be careful, this is hot. Kinda see that shoulder they if you do not want that to happen, then you can draw through until you see the pilot drone the other side, turn it around and they drew from the other side. And then you will have a smooth finish on both sides. Then it will look like that and the other side as well. Okay. So as you can see, the foot's straight through now, it could happen that you want to have this pipe at an angle. And then the solution to that then is to just determine what the angle should be 0. This drove firmly in place, press it down that way and start slowly. Opening its duty. Just make sure that you're not through yet. Okay? And now you can fit the fight through there. And you've got to Nieto. 16. Lesson 3.1 Masonry Drill Bits: And now it's time for masonry drilling. Makes sure the switchboard role to the hammer function and check your beds. The masonry drove that is much different to the normal twist bits we've discussed before. Make sure you take note of the difference. The reason why we cannot use a high-speed steel but to drill into masonry is that the material is made of, is far too soft. They are special bits available to drill into masonry. It is a tungsten tip in the front, which is much harder and chips away into the masonry very easily. When you go and purchase the bit to drill into masonry, you must bear in mind what kind of drawing machine you have. If you have a normal hammer drug, this is the one that you need to buy. If you had the rotary hammer, you need to buy the one with the slots in. Just a word of advice, when you buy the rotary hammer drill bits, you will notice that this one has got two tips and that one has 1234 types. It's much more effective and faster, but of course more expensive. It depends on how often you're going to use it and how much work you have to do. 17. Lesson 3.2 Use a Metal Detector: Before you start drilling holes into a wall, please make sure to detect way water pipes or electrical cabling is running. Let me show you what this detector does for you. I do recommend that you buy one of these. If it lights up like that, it shows you there's a water pipe or some insight. You must avoid that. It starts lighting up at that point, which proves that the water pipe is day. And from the top down, I can see it is they don't draw them. If it is electrical cabling, that is the reaction. So don't draw. You can draw next to it. We have the green light, but be very careful. Otherwise, you will have to enroll for causing plumbing and electrical as well. 18. Lesson 3.3 DEMO Hammer Drill: To make this whole triangle picture, of course you need to. You need to use your masonry MRO. I assume that you only have the battery drew. So what we're going to use is this one that we demonstrated, just make sure the setting is on hammer. This now does not work. That is your talk settings. So don't worry about that. If the wall is very hard, you should start with a thin drop it. If it is not hard, you can start with the one that you need immediately. Let's assume this is very hard, so I'm using a three millimeter bit. Okay? Eventually I want the six millimeter hole. So I'm just enlarging the hole to a formal and then my final six millimeter. But as easy as pie, how deep should I go? You can use the same trick that we used before. A piece of type to mark the depth that you need to go. And then you can use that measurement. Right? But if you are lucky and you bought yourself a rotary hammer, I will show you how easy that is. 19. Lesson 3.4 DEMO Rotary Hammer: Now if you are one of the fortunate ones, I'd have a rectory hammer. I will demonstrate the power of that machine. Make sure your cities on Amador. Okay. So I have my final thickness here that I need. Remember the battery drove the thin but battled a little bit. So let's see how this one does. If you need to draw a bigger hole, maybe straight through the wall, I do recommend that you draw the thenar hall like this first and that will guide the thick drove not to wander while you go through the wall, especially if you need to be very accurate. So then this one will serve as a pilot hole. 20. Lesson 3.5 DEMO Hammer drill vs Rotary Hammer: Now, just to prove a point, I've got the final thickness drill in the air, drop it and the battery drove it. See how well it does without doing the thin guide hole first? Right? At least we managed to make a hole. And that with our battery had mudra 0, which proves a point. If you are going to draw one hole once in a while, the stroll is sufficient. But if you're going to do a lot of work, the rotary hammer is the way to go. Just a note about the two concrete draw options. The one is am I drew and the ones that are three Hema. The Hamad role requires much more pressure to draw the whole than the rotary hammer directory isomer is a breeze as opposed to the other one. 21. Lesson 3.6 Rotary Hammer Chisel: Did you ever have a project? We had to remove old tiles, plaster or some chopping away on concrete work. Then you will remember these tools. You will know them. But you know that most designers that came to our aid in drilling holes into the concrete, they did not forget us. Remember, I recommended that you buy this drool with a hammer only action. And you will be very glad because what you need to do now, you only have to take the jostle that goes with this draw. Inserted in the chalk. Press a button and way you go a much easier job. I have to do some maintenance work on my house here. As you can see, the grass is growing between the wall and these tiles here. So I need to remove the rest of the tiles. I can go the old route and use a chisel and a hammer. Or I'm lucky enough to have a rotary hammer to do this job. As you can see, the sitting wasn't hammer only. As you can see. It will be a breeze to work with this machine. With having you have a lot of work to do. 22. Lesson 4.1 Screwdriver Bits: As you can see, which has a couple of bits to discuss with you. There are plenty more available on the market, but we chose these that we think will be sufficient for home use. Now first of all, we're going to discuss all these different screwdriver bits that we have over here. Starting with the first cartridge which has the flat beds in them. You will notice that the flat beds, they differ in width. That one is three millimeters wide, four millimeters wide, and so ons 68 millimeters. If you use a screw for eight millimeter, but obviously that is not the but to use for small screws. So that is a reason why you have different ones. Now the next cartridge up contains the star screwdriver. But now for many years the Philip screwdriver bit was king until the patent has expired. And then G, K, M came up with a better design and it's called possibilites. The difference between the two. You see the positive, but between these 1234 arms, there are these extra ribs in between. And that creates more grip, more contact between the blue and the actual. But you will notice that the Philips but does not have that. Here we have the two different screw hits. This one is the Phillips created and that one is the new positron. You will see between the wings there's an extra indent, those four little stripes day, which creates a better contact between the tip and the screw. Screw. And therefore, it does not turn out as easily as happened before with a Phillips screw. Whenever you need to use them, you must make sure that you use the correct size. But you can see there is some movement between the screw head and the screw, but and this has snuck foot, there's no movement, so it is an easy drive. In this cartridge, we have bots that is called torques, but you will notice that it also is indicated numbers t stands for talks and the different sizes are indicated there. A difference between them and the previous ones is that they have, you can see 23456 arms. And the arms are parallel to each other as opposed to the Philips that as that is angled. The reason for that is that once that is inserted into the screw head, it does not have the theoretical tendency to fling out because it's not at an angle. If you need a screwdriver like read, nothing else will do the trick. At then we also have the clinics screws. So these screwdriver bits is also indicated with numbers. But normally they say H2, H3, H4 over the it's just the numbers we use to just have LN keys to loosen Adams clues. But it takes a long time. These fun to fit into a draw and gives you a much faster job. And also because of the shape is not angled, it is also a very secure skull, like the torques, but the LNS beds these square Robertson that's also fits tightly inside the screw hit. You can see it is square and also the sides are parallel. And then next to them, he will find these beds are very rarely used in the house. Maybe you want to repair some appliance or something and then you find a screw that has got two holes in the head. That is the bit that you will need to loosen it with. And also next to that one is a 3 wind screwdriver. But unlike the Phillips at as followings, again, if you find a school-like that, nothing else will work. So it's handy to have I just want to point out that also available in the market or longer ones like this of certain of the screwdriver bit. But please do not worry because you do not have to buy all these for a start, at least if you can buy in the flats the number four and the number 6, a Phillips number 12, and a positive Dr. number 2, then you should be good to go. 23. Lesson 4.2 Screwdriver Adapters: In order to utilize all the screwdriver bits, you will need a holder like this that fits right into the chuck of your best to draw. It is magnetized to hold the bed, as well as the screw. You will find that very handy when you are working. Also on the market is a holder that has a sleeve in France. It will just help you to control the work better. Sometimes you will need a longer one. This one is somewhat flexible. It also has a sleeve in front to help you control driving in the screw. Sometimes you need to put in a very long screw. It tends to wobble when you start putting it in. And then this holder has got a sleeve that helps you keep the alignment a 100 percent. And this little one here is very handy when you do screws into dry walling. As you can see, the head of the screw is exactly flush with the color here. It prevents you from driving the school straight through the drywall. 24. Lesson 4.3 DEMO Screwdriver Adapters: Again, no. I wanted to show you the lungs grew. And I see this screw is very long. So if I use the normal bit, you can see this a bit of a challenge to keep it straight. You understand? So therefore, I use this one with a sleeve. And that sleeve will help me keep the robot straight. C. Without this leaf, you have to make a plan to hold it straight. With asleep, you don't have a problem. The next one I want to show you is the dry wall, but you can use the same hole. Remember, that bit has got this color here that prevents you from going straight through the dry wall, right? I can't go deeper flush with the drywall. I just want to point out that both these clues of body drives cruise. The difference is that this one here has got a cutting day, which causes it to drill a hole easier while you drive the screws in. This one does not have it, although it also drives in. 25. Lesson 4.4 Countersinking the Screwhead: You will notice in our demos that when Evan, we need to drive screws in, we prefer to draw a whole first. It is not always the case, but most of the time, when you drive in the screw, you will maybe one, the screw hit to be flushed with the material. Before you insert the screw thing, you need to count the sink, the whole using one of these counter sink bits. And you will notice that it will make space for the underside of the screw hit. But of course they were very clever. They designed an all in one bit. This but draws the whole ended counter sinks all in one go saving you a lot of time. Okay, so let's do some screws here. Remember, you have to punch a hole to start everything. Take your drawing, remember to put it on dro. I want to call it holds for my screwed. Now the thickness of that dro is a thickness of the shaft in between those threads. Right? So that is step number one. Step number two, they have to sync the hole because you need some space for that hit at the back of this screw. Trying to make that hole the same size or a little bit more than the screw head with self-disclose below the surface. Okay. Now it can as you can see, it's below the surface. And of course, if you want it flush with the surface, you just don't go as deep as I did. What they can do as well. If you are not very close to the edge, you can go in without a drone drilling a hole to see this screw hit there. It's got those ribs day, which actually counter sinks discrete by itself. So if you're not close to the edge of what you can do this. But if you wanted flush, you can draw with our depressing the button. You can use it as a screwdriver, just like that until it is flush. I prefer to drill a hole though, that's always better. Now there is an invention that helps a lot. You see these gadget here. You drill a hole with that agile counter sink at the same time saves you a lot of time. This one is the older breed. You know, the old's clues had a shank just below the head of the screw, which is thicker than this, then the threaded side of the screw. So when you purchase one of these, makes sure what kind of screws you are going to use. Now, this one I'm going to use now. Pull it out to get rid of the debris. All right. Counter sunk already. So licks. You will see there it's a much needed counter sunk whole. Then over here, you see that broke out the much needed a job to use that. 26. Lesson 4.5 Using a Depth Stop Ring: Sometimes you would want to control the depth of a whole that it drew into the timbre. In order to do that, you need to use a depth stop ring like this. Let me show you how they work. You just slide it over the drill bed, making sure that this LN screw does not align with the flute day, but with the ribs. And then you tighten it on the rib with an allen key like that. Make sure you tighten it properly. And then that is a depth that you will reach. The bread point would BIT is often used to create holes. For the Dells. You can see it has a very sharp point which keeps it exactly in position. When you start drilling. Goes, you make the marks where you want your actual hole. And then because it is a hard route, I do not use a very fast speed up. Now. I have a question. And the question is now when should I stop drilling? And that is the purpose of this little color. Remember? So the colony you'd insert like that, you measure the distance that you require a 15 millimeters or whatever and make sure that this LN key screw is on that rep day. And then you force in it, making sure it is done. You see it will not go through the material. The scholar will prevent that. Right? And they don't have a whole for the Dell. 27. Lesson 4.6 Bits for nuts & Bolts: Up until now we discussed bits that you use for screws like this for example. But you can also use your machine to foster and bolts and nuts like these. All you have to do is to change the bet. Just insert a bit like that. And like that. And the way you go much faster job than using spinners or ranges or whatever. Of course, they are also available in all different sizes like these. It's very handy to have if you have a lot of work to do. Also available on the market is the special socket. It has a magnet inside this cell drilling take screw is held in position and then it allows you to draw the whole into metal ed Foss need all in the same action. And this is the one with the magnet that we talked about before. This is a very handy screw. It is got dropped, but they built into the screw. You can go straight through metal, this is aluminum, but it can go through mild steel as well during its own home. And is fastened. Very convenient, very fast. Whenever you use the drill or electrical equipment, be sure to listen to the sound. If the revolutions of the machine comes down too much, then you know the machine is backlink, just ease off with a prisoner little bit. Otherwise you will lose your machine. 28. Lesson 5.1 Alternative Machines & Additional Attachments: Here we have a battery driven screwdriver only. It does not have a check like the normal machines we discussed so far. It only has a socket into which the driver goes like that. It also has a drill bit that fits into that socket. And where you go. We do not recommend that you buy them though, because the machines we discussed so far has all those functions anyway. If though you already have one of these machines and you want to use normal drill bits, you can do that by using this convertor. It fits right into the socket like that. And there are the three jaws. He'll have a normal Chuck. You can use the normal robots. In some circumstances, the space that you need to work in this very narrow and this machine is too big. There is a solution to this problem though. You can buy this attachment and you put the screwdriver, but in the end you can work in a very narrow space. Similar to the principle of this attachment. There is also a more heavy-duty machine available, which looks like this. You will notice that it has a chalk on the side and not in front like the normal rules. But of course, you can also now work in a very narrow space. This machine can do much harder work. This also is used for sheet metal. You will notice the that the depth of the teeth doesn't allow you to draw straight through the thick material. It only goes through about five millimeters. You can use it for sheet metal and also for plywood. I call this spatial bit my drove file. What I do with that, drill a hole straight through timber and in this section of a year or uses a fire going back and forth in and out, then I can remove the whole or change the shape of the whole. And this, but I used to draw host through ceramic tiles or glass. Of course you have to keep it weightless water, otherwise, you might lose that up. As an alternative, you can also use this diamond tipped draws to draw the whole in ceramic tiles or gloss. But you will notice that it does not have a sharp point that keeps it in center when you start drilling and will wonder, therefore, it needs some help in the form of drilling guide with suction cups. You will see there's a lever here in front engaging that. You can see the suction cups action there. So what you need to do is put it firmly on the tile or the glass, engage it, and then it firmly holds day. And then you can use your freehand draw and use the diamond cutters to make the holes. 29. Lesson 5.2 DEMO Drill File: Let me show you how to make a keyhole using the dual file. This is just the pilot hole. Okay. Okay. I drill a hole in the top and the bottom because that is the perimeters of the hole for the key going through going into. I've now that point, I keep it inside the material as a reference so that I can go down. At now I keep that one in the material that's shaped as a reference. Now I can go in and out. And then you have the hole for the key. 30. Lesson 5.3 DEMO Ceramic Tile Drilling: Now let's attempt to drill a hole in ceramic tile using this tungsten carbide drill bit. You have to remember to keep it cool by dipping it into water. If every now and then. And if you think I'm doing it too many times, it is not. Some tiles, of course, are harder than others and then you will have to dip it more often. So let's go. All right, we're done. Fortunately, the style was not that hot. 31. Lesson 5.4 DEMO Glass Drilling: Now when we drew through glass, the preferred drill bit is actually the diamond bit. But if you do it at home yourself, the problem that you will have the diamond bit because it's a pipe shape, you do not have a sharp point to follow through because you have to draw from both sides. The factories that drill holes they've got properly set up machines are drawn exactly the same lines from two sides. But we can get away with it by using this one. As I said, it has a sharp point, so it will guide you through what will happen. You have to drill the hole almost through the Internet around and draw almost through again and turn it around again until you are straight through because this is a triangular shape, the drill bit. And you have to have the wider the wider size, which is what you actually want, which is six more. And then it has to go through the hole straight through to make sure that you have six more. Okay, so let's do it. Make sure to keep the robot Qu, WT the water every so often. It's done it around because I'm sure now we will be able to see where that spot ease that we need to draw. Just keep it clean. A greater point is gone through on the other side now. So I have to turn around again and drove from that side again. Not too much Patricia, just medium pressure, I would say at this stage the holiest tapering towards the middle. And I wanted to, of course, the hole to be straight through the same size. So I think we are there is just checked it exactly. See both surfaces are not acceptable. No. Corrects. 32. Lesson 6.1 Your home Toolbox: Let's have a look at the basic tools that you should find in any toolbox. These are the basic tools that we think should be in a bottom kitchen rower. You have you draw with this drill bits and screwdriver tips. In addition to that, you should have a hammer with which you can hammer in your Fischer plugs. And you're now talking about nails. If you need to hammer and a nail, be sure to grab it with suppliers. Otherwise, your fingers will be in the way. You also need to have box cutters at hand. When you do spell all the nails and screws, you'll be glad you have a magnet and hand. It's not always necessary, but it's good to have. You will notice this is a shifting spanner. It changes in size as you turn the ring and the measurements on the side. And if this is a bit too small, you can always use the adjustable wrench like this. It is quite big, but don't worry, it won't bite you. This you can actually use when you need to connect to disconnect your dishwasher or your washing machine, plumbing lines. It is very handy to have we have a level over here that you use when hanging pictures on the wall. Make sure it's nice and level. And it's always handy to have manual screwdrivers on hand in case you need to change a plug. You would notice that sometimes the plants need a star screwdriver, Philips, or sometimes it needs a flat like this one, or sometimes even a bigger one like these. In certain situations, the type measures a bit too bulky to use, then you can opt to use the metal ruler. We prefer using a clutch pencil, since the thin graphite layer ensures a sharp line. If you want to become more adventurous and your DIY journey, you will have to have more tools in addition to the basic home 2s that we discussed already. Some of them are these. This is a big square which you will need when you cut boards. Of course, you will need something to cut with. Also the smaller hammer. The hammer with a smaller handle is very convenient if you work in confined spaces, because you do not always have people to help you, It is very handy to have clamps. It's advisable to have some which has those of different widths. This is only one width, but they are available in sets. And also this handy square can be used for 90 degrees as well as 45 degrees. That is a must-have as well. And sometimes you need to clamp two components together. And then this vice grip is a very handy tool to have. Let me demonstrate how well it works. C, It can hardly move it. I really have to push. If you want to undo it. That is the way to do it. If you need to clean types of wires. If you want to replace wires for a ketal or whatever appliance, instead of using the side cutter. You can buy one of these very handy little tools. It can take different thicknesses of electrical cord. And you just choose one of those, tamp it down and then just pull it and you have cleaned that tips. Whenever you need to draw holes into a wall to hang pictures or whatever. Please have one of these. This metal detector will tell you whether a water pipes in the wall so that you don't sit with a need of a plumber because he drilled holes straight through the water pipes or even electrical courts. And if you really want to spoil yourself, this is a very handy fancy laser measure. When you need to measure between two walls. This, this little instrument is very handy to have. Now last but not least, is the carpenters pencil. That is a very handy instrument. It is flat. You know why? It doesn't roll off your work surface. It also has a specific width like that and like that, which you can use as a spacer. 33. Bonus 1 How to use a Tape Measure: When you go to the shop to purchase a tape measure, you will find a maize field of choices. Many of the types will give you the measurement of the body itself to include in the measurement when you measure between two walls, this one does not do that, but this one has the marks on both sides. The numbers are they vertical and then perpendicular on that side, which is very handy to have. Then also, you will see ears on that side as well as that side. So you can use it upside down, obviously because you've got measurements on that side. Also, there are magnets, which is very handy in certain circumstances. All of these types have a one millimeter play like that. In this front section. I will show you the purpose of that. When you measure like that in-between there and there, you will notice that that type moves in. And now my measurement there reads 34.7 centimeters. If I measure from here to there, I want the same measurement. If this does not move and I go here, I will get 34.8. But because it allows that movement when a measure from outside to inside, it is 34.7 as well. So that millimeter movement compensates for the different scenarios, the inside measurement and an outside measurement. Then also, if you need to measure between two walls like that, you will end up with a problem like that. Now there are different ways of doing this. But what you can do is take the small ruler and put it there. And then you can see, you can read on that 30 mark there. That means, instead of guessing 400 and almost 20, you can read exactly 3418. You can see every day. An alternative to that is to measure up to say 30 centimeters. Make a mock, they turn it around and measure that loss section day. You had to 300 up to the 418. 34. Bonus 2 How to determine the Spirit Level Accuracy: So when you go to the shop to buy a level, you must make sure that you are not purchasing the straight edge that is actually posing as a level. Many of them, the cheapest kinds are like that. What I mean is we need by level, you must check it. I'm using this as a reference point to make sure that I'm putting the liver in the same position. Can you see the bubble just touches the black line? They, if this thing is labor and I turn it around, it must give the same reading. Like that. Similar scenario. If you check the vertical reading, find the surface, a vertical surface, put it against the, check the reading, turn it around and see if the bubble gives you the same reading. If it does, you're good to go. 35. Bonus 3 Clamps: Just a word about clamping down materials. When you do so, if you use a clam bed like that and clamp it down, then it could make an indent into the material that maybe you like to want to use. Therefore, it is advisable to use hard boat or something in between to protect it before you clamp it down. This way, you know that there will be no damage on your mail on your material. Now this Haslam I had for many years. It's an old one, very strong, very reliable. But let me show you how it works. It can adjust to a very wide opening. And of course there are available in more than twice the distance here. Very handy if you need to clamp tabletops together that you are doing. And it is a must-have if you are going to go into furniture making. 36. Bonus 4 A few Practical Tips: If you need to make a hole to hang some pictures in the lounge, obviously don't want to clean up afterwards on the floor. So you have to make a plan. You can use the vacuum cleaner or you can make a plan like this. Utilise the cereal box, take some tape. And then we want to make the whole over there. And that is our catchment area. Anybody can make a mistake in if that was you, I will show you how to fix it. Use this acrylic sealant. And if you want to cover up these holes, make sure it's dust free and then place the nozzle in and fill the holes. The reason why I prefer the acrylic is that it dries within an hour and then you can paint over it. If you put the nozzle in, it also brings out the debris and dust and stuff. And to re-do these patterns. Just use a brush. And if you don't tell anybody, nobody will know that there were three holes. We drilled the hole and we inserted the first screw. And now the aluminium here will not move. In other words, the hole that you have to drill there and there will be precisely in place because the first one keeps it intact. You can see the length that we required to draw the whole is that deep? But I drilled the hole up to that depth because as you insert this hammer screw, it accumulates dust and debris in the front, so you must leave space for that. Otherwise you will find that your, your screw doesn't know in deep enough. We need to put a screw in here. But because it is so close to the edge as you can see there is the edge. And that is a distance it is safer to drill a hole first. Otherwise, the material can just crack and then the screw doesn't do anything. So now because we created space for the shank of the screw, it will not crack. 37. Congratulations!: And that concludes course one, well done, You've made it. Thank you so much for sticking with us. Do keep an eye out for our next course. We are working on it. If you have any suggestions rf questions concerning tools or any future courses, please do let us know. 38. Coffee Table Project: Okay, now let's start with our first project. We're going to make a small coffee table that looks like this. Now this particular design that we have here can be applied to different measurements. This coffee table is 500, but 900 by 500, by 500. And for high. Now exactly the same principle can be used if you want to make a smaller bedside table of the size, or if you want to make a dining room table, it is exactly the same thing. Just the sizes differ. Okay, so to start this thing, you have to of course make a drawing with all the measurements. And then I've turn this one upside down so that you can see the construction of it. And then I have numbered them as you can see there. And all these numbers corresponds with the actual cutting list that we made. Number 1, 2, 3, 4, the component, what it is, what's made of what it is and the measurements. So when you start assembling nothing, you can just refer to these numbers that correspond with the numbers on the actual table. All right, so first of all, we had to go and buy our timber. We need to cut up. And if you are lucky enough, you can go to a shop that actually does the cutting list for you to the exact measurements. If you don't have it, then of course you have to cut a new shot yourself. I just want to point out that this particular design has an optional shelf there underneath the tabletop. That is an order that we have from somebody. Here. You can see that we made provision for that by that support Day. But of course, it is an optional shelf. This is upside down. You don't have to put that in. And if you do want to put that in, you can of course put it lower or whatever. So first of all, we need to do cutting list. And we refer to sizes here. And then I see I need may need to make legs 494 by 44 by 20. And the one that I have here, these 494 by 70 by 20. So it's already prepared it. The 70 long, wide, sorry, and 20 millimeters thick. I only need to cut the length. Okay. The length was just makes sure that it doesn't make mistakes. The length was 494. I measure it this way round instead of. I mean, of course you can measure it that way around 49 for but I get a much more secure mark. If I do it this way. 494, exactly. 494. Make your mark there. And then you can take your square market like that as well as on the side. Okay? Now we need to do some cutting. So make sure remember we measured our exact measurement and the soul always has a thickness that you have to consider. So you must cut on the outside of the line. I want that That part. I'm using that book. If I cut on that side of the line, of course, the leg will be a millimeter shorter. So make sure you cut on the side of the line that is going to fall off. Okay. The purpose that I have that line DE is that you can stay square while you are cutting. It's also advisable when your users, so like that, like this, your hand position is less this and your one finger stays on the side day. It helps you keep the direction and keep the source study while you are cutting. All right, our components have all been cut to size. And before we start assembling it, we have to do some sanding. It's easy to do saving on components then once it's all assembled. So what we do is the sampling procedure is first US AT grid. Now 80 grit is to send it, for instance, here, It's rough and you need some quick sanding on this on the heads of the wood. And then after that, we will use a 120. And then we assemble, and after is assembled. Before we do the finishing with lacquer, we are going to use a 150 grit. That is a finishing touch of saving. And that is done after it's the symbol to the 150. All right, So now of course we're going to have a dusty business that That's why with the dusk mask. We're going to send the heads of the tops to be. And I'm going to use the AT grittier because I need some really aggressive sanding to make it smooth. And you have to clamp it so that it doesn't move. But this is a protective piece of timber day so that I don't make indents into the actual top. Right? Okay, the sanding machine that I'm using is an random orbital sander. A normal orbital sander I never buy because that is just vibrating in small circles, creating small circles on the surface. This one is a random orbit sander. That means that it does the small circles, but it also turns as well. Eliminating the appearance of that small circular patterns on the surface of you would never buy the normal orbital sander. Of course, you must make sure that they keep the machine absolutely 90 degrees to the surface because it's an 80 grit, it can disturb the shape of the wood. I'm happy with that. So with the other side. And now make sure that if these knots is a need some sanding that you do that. Yeah, it needs some AV sanding, so let's do it here. They don't always move in circles when you do the sanding and very mild pressure. Okay, now, you will see if you look very closely that the board got some lines They made by the plane, the planing machine when they put the timber through the plane. So I want to get rid of those marks. So I'm going to do this whole surface now with, uh, with this 80. And then after that we will do the 120. This you do circus up and down like that, overlapping the previous circular movement with about 50 percent. Every time you do that until you are straight through and they need Do it up and down as well. Perpendicular with the grain and then up and down and you Dan. Hi. Okay, now I've changed to the 120. And then the 120 we're going to do all the surfaces that's going to be exposed. Not only the ones that I did with the ATP, remember the 80 was sort of shaping and the 120 is starting to finish it. Okay, When you do this with a machine, that the line of contact with the timbre is just above the center. Because if I do the center, you can't control it properly. So just above the line of centre like that, not like that. Now we've done the sending up to grit number 120. Now we're going to start assembling it. If you can have a look Here we go into a symbol, the four legs first, the component parts, number 456, that is the legs. And you can select Number 4, 5, and 6 from your pile here as I did here. And then we can start gluing and screwing them. Okay? So when you select the timbre, just see if there's a discrepancy like that. You can see that discrepancy there. I'm going to try and hide that by putting that on the inside or let me do it this way around. It will be on the inside so nobody will ever see it. Right? So I'm going to apply the glue here. Only one surface. Make sure it covers the whole surface. Don't worry, there's glue dries easily on your hands and you can take it off like anything. Now when you put it on there, make sure it is flush on this side here. And then you can clamp it in position, making sure all sides are flush. You will notice that if you clamp it at an angle like that, it tends to pull the top part towards you so it's not flush anymore. The ideal is to have the perpendicular line from there to there exactly level. It's a bit of a trial and error, but you can, it can be achieved. Just want a good class. Right? Keep your fingers on the joint days so you can see that it remains flush. And then I'm going to put my first group. Remember this bit that does all in one. I'm doing a little bit deeper because I want to sync the head of the screw so that we can cover it up later on. Okay, make sure that it is still flush. It moves a little bit. So I'm just going to push it by hand. All right? Okay, that's step number one. And you can get rid of the blue by a slightly damp cloth. And then this one is on the inside, as you can see there. That is the support for this for this shelf. That is why we have these here. See there. Okay. So I'm going to put two screws there and do screws here. But I'm going to put some glue as well so that I'm sure it never goes anywhere. It is flushed. They that will be the bottom. I call this furniture, just grew and do furniture. No fancy joins, nothing. It's a practical thing and it works. And I mentioned that you can make all different sizes of tables with this. And you can even use the same method to make a little bench next to your table. If you want to make a breakfast table or something out of it. That's a quick and easy way. Do I have some furniture in your house? Okay. So we're going to proceed to do the rest of them. Do not go too close to the end. Otherwise the work would just correctly make sure you cover the whole surface. Talk sittings year will vary because the wood desk places that the softer than the other. So sometimes you just have to play by ear and see whether Wu desert darker color, it is harder. So therefore, therefore you need a different sitting on your dock settings if you do want to use that. But you do get a field eventually. And just stop. Slightly damp cloth. Just get rid of the excess glue. Because if you don't do that, it will show up when you apply varnish to the finished product. And the user will just scrape the Xist blew off right in the corner easily. I like to use the quick setup glue. It doesn't take ages to dry. And this being a school in blue, project, speed is actually the idea. Remember if you try and tighten the clamp and it pulls it that way, then just rectify the clamp. It is not square to the work surface. Okay. How much blue? Just make sure you cover the whole surface of one. And then when you clamp it and the blue comes out a little bit, you know, there's enough glue. Of course we didn't have to have two draws. You can have only one, but then you have to change bits every time. All right, so now we will have to do the tabletop jiggling that I'm going to use the side that we have, send it. Actually mean to keep that side outside. Of course. I want to make sure that all these foot keep that in position there. Now we'll keep this one. And the side of the screws faces to the Friday. I'm just doing a so-called drive failure. So I'm sure that I'm putting my insight leads in the right position. We have to make sure that there's a 10 millimeter gap they go, we put all the components in position as a dry foot. I just want to make sure that we have a 10 millimeter overhang all around. And then I'm going to mark the position of these cleats on the inside. The cleats. Now all the data that I used to attach the top, do the legs, and just make the MLK Day. I know it should be 10 millimeters. So now we can take the sides away. Just put them next to it so that we know that one over there. Okay. Just keep your eye on the line all the time so that when you clamp it, it does not move away from the line. Was one the good ones. Can we hear in a non-legal stain position? Yeah. When you do not decrease this trigger here, the append use it as a SKU that I would like that for the laws, but if it's necessary. Okay, just to summarize what we did here, we found the position of all the clips by Dr. fitting. And now we put glue there and we attach all of them with screws. And now I'm going to put the frame around like that. Okay? We are not going to apply glue there in case in future you want to remove the frame, I mean the top. So in order to attach the top, now, this needs to be attached through there. And the frame here will need to be attached to each other through here on the sides. That's what we're going to do now. Of course it is no good to apply glue them on the head of timber because the glue has no attachment. It doesn't glue doesn't take on do the head of timber only on the sides. Music longest clues. Now I just want to extend the drill bit here a little bit. I'm using longest clues, like 50 millimeters to inches and flush. Then it goes into close to the edge. It's essential to drill a hole deep enough so that it does not correct. All right. So that is now the frame. Now we need to attach the DEJ, the legs to the frame. Go here we're going to use some glue again and we're going to use to produce clues there and those clues yet. So I apply the glue on that side had not yet so that I do not if I put it yeah, I'm I just go over the invisible side and I don't want to see glue. Hi. This makes sure that it stays square. Do this one a little bit higher up. Not not in line with that one. There's just a better hold. By the way, this cold wood glue is so strong that if you break the wood, it'll break next to the blue and the wood itself will break before the blue gives way. Just make sure all the time that you stay level squared, squared squared. You have to clean a little bit. Okay, As you can see now, that this frame is still loose from the top, we did that on purpose so that you can take it off. And then we drop the shelf in the and that is what we're going to do now. But before I do that, I'm going to draw the holes through which I'm going to put screws to attach the top to the frame, but then they are immovable in future if you need to replace the top for some odd reason. I tried to put a screw next to this glue that holds it down. But of course, once the glue at stake and it's okay, it won't go anywhere. So in future you might want to remove the top. And in this case, if you need to buy Indeed or change the color. And in this case, because it's so narrow space between the shelf and the actual top, you will not be able to reach in there when you want to paint. And then you can remove it and bind it and put it back. And remember, if you shorten these, you can bring the shelf down or you can leave them out completely. And this could have been a dining room table. If it is narrowed and a little bit lower, it can be bench. If it is shorter, it can be a bedside table. Okay, so now we're going to remove those clues again, because now, now it's going to be not so easy to get in the, so it's easier now that the school has been there just to leave it in position and then just do that and leave it there. You're going to remove that top now to be able to put that shelf in this let me just you see the problem is now the shelf cannot go in there. It can go in like that, but now it can't go in there because of the position of this. So that's why we do it this way around. Okay. So I just remove the screws little bit more. Just leave them in the Fleet. Don't take them out completely. Okay. Okay. I'm going to put screws in here in the corners on those support that we have made. And I'm very into 50 millimeter screw that's a little bit longer. Okay, I wanted to hide some of these screws here. I'm going to use this stopping with jokingly recall Carpenter's brains. So and you do get them in different colors depending on the color of the wood that you are using. Just let it not be first completely. Just put too much in the way because once you dry, you can send it down. We're going to do the same for the screws on the outside that the dentures, the legs. You just break with corners, the edges. Not cut your hand or something when you put it in there. Okay, so now we have two deaths. The top back on. And now you can see what I actually lived those did before because now it's just a case of putting them in. Okay, just make sure that you send all the edges. Just to break the sharpness. Make sure you do these as well because otherwise it can split off it. If you'd catch something on the floor and just move it somewhere without breaking it up, sliding. Okay, some of the links with lobby glued them. The blues slip little bit like half a millimeter. So that joint, we're going to send it just to make it smooth. Okay. So once we meet on dry, then then you can sand it with together with a final sand. Sand by putting, which is a 150 grid. A 150 good will also take off all this extra carpenters brains. And then after that, you can paint it or varnish it or ten or whatever you would like to do. I just want to see if there's some discrepancies in the timber on top where we also need to put down some of that stopping. Very little sense or very easily by hand even. See this and then split the data. Okay, Now, we must just finally break this corner here. Let me just due to this machine, remember with trying to work with as little tools as possible. You don't have to have a sanding machine like this, although it's much more convenient, You can do it by hand. You feel brave and fit. You will be able to do it. But through basically what we used here is our screwdriver draws a saw and