Trees for Beginners in Watercolor Painting | Imre Balogh | Skillshare

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Trees for Beginners in Watercolor Painting

teacher avatar Imre Balogh, Artist

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction

      0:18

    • 2.

      Drawing stage

      4:28

    • 3.

      Here's an example

      52:13

    • 4.

      Creating base of over paint

      4:33

    • 5.

      Step by Step Painting Trees with Watercolor

      42:29

    • 6.

      Watercolor Materials Used in this Demonstration

      32:15

    • 7.

      Adding details

      13:24

    • 8.

      The Basics of PaintingĀ Trees

      47:26

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About This Class

I'll show you in class how to watercolor-paint trees without overworking them. Because there are so many different types and shapes of trees, they make wonderful subjects for drawing and painting. The focus of this course is trees.


Who should take this class:
1. beginners who want to practise drawing and painting trees with watercolour for the first time
2. Beginners who want to learn how to depict a variety of trees in drawings or paintings


While we will paint a variety of trees in this lesson and use reference photos for a few of them, the main goal of this lesson is to teach you how to create beautiful trees from your imagination.

Meet Your Teacher

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Imre Balogh

Artist

Teacher

Hello, I'm Imre. Since I was a young child, a set of paints or crayons has been the finest gift anyone has ever given me. I studied the arts years ago. But then life occurred, and I suddenly found myself working in a corporate setting rather than making children's book illustrations. But that in no way implies that I have stopped creating paintings and drawings.

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Level: Beginner

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: Today I'm going to do something that I've been asking about a whole lot. And that is how to simplify trees and how to paint trees in a way that doesn't overwork them. It's very easy to overwork the fall each we're going to keep it relatively simple so that whether you're a beginner or advanced, I believe you'll find this one useful. So without further ado, let's take it to the table and get started. 2. Drawing stage: So as I'm drawing the scene, let me talk a bit about our game plan. One of the things I get asked about a lot is how to avoid overworking trees. Trees and foliage in general can be very complex. In this video, I'll attempt to address that in a way that makes sense and is simple. We're going to somewhat simplified the trees, but let's not even the emphasis here. My emphasis here is on how to simplify the leafy part. One of the things that initially attracted me to paint this scene is the beautiful composition between the trees. Often when you have a lot of trees together, beautiful patterns can be created. So here we have one tree. I'm going to place another one right around here, going through the other direction. Next three there is a shorter one. And I'm going to make everything clear in just a moment. And here there is one closer to this one. If you can avoid even distances as much as you can, that's ideal. Okay, so make, make an attempt not to have anything be of equal distance. I know that can sound a little funny, but you can try it. Try having every distance between each and every tree. We're going to explore it, actually composition in an upcoming video, but try at least I'm going to move to pause for a moment. Try at least to have everything in different distances. Okay, now here's the thing. So for the tree branches, I think most people don't have that much of a problem. I'm just going to plop them in around the lines I already marked. So that's the first tree branch. And notice how my straight lines aren't as straight. My hand is a little shaky, which will be to our advantage here because the trees aren't fully straightened out. That's the whole thing. It's an organic shape and it's, it's imperfect in the most perfect way possible. I'm just going to drop around the lines. I've put it in again. The trees, the lines I previously put R just to mark the different spots. So here's one here. I think I drank too much coffee, so my hands are a little hyper. Here's one, the one that's close to the right is going to move to the right like that. Okay, Now similar to what we did with the masking tape trick, we're gonna do a similar thing here when it comes to leaving highlights. So we're going to leave them on the right side of the trees because that's where at least I see most of the highlights going here. Let's have one tree that's kind of interesting, splits into a couple of main branches, like so thicker. And then one here at the back. Like so maybe, maybe you should have it go the other way round. We'll see about that. I actually, I don't really, it doesn't matter as much, but let's go at it like this. Now, here's where most people get into trouble and that's the leafy part. So I'm just following the contours when I draw it. So you see the contours of the leafy part and it's all just one big shape to me. That's the beauty of it. Here. I split some of the tree branches, but just so that I know until when, where this goes, you see it's just one big chunk of foliage. That's for the drawing stage. I'm going to show you in the painting stage soon in a couple of other tricks. Okay? Now, for the background, we do have a lot of trees here that we have this one that's closer to us. But we also have this background layer of trees, if you will, that goes like this. A couple of even closer ones, lower hanging ones. Now here's what's really important. The shadows cast by the trees, so they're all going to go left. So we have this one, this one, and making them in different distances from us also helps with creating interests because you see how the shadows are also spread out in an interesting manner like that. Then we're gonna get this beautiful shadow coming across from perhaps other trees. You want to get that in. Like so. All of this is in the shadow. See this area. And it's just gonna lead hopefully to a more interesting composition. Okay? Now there is a shed here I'm going to drop that just doesn't matter as much. And there are a couple of other Sierra, but this is for the drawing stage and all. Let's talk about the painting stage. 4. Creating base of over paint: So what I'm gonna do is let's rearrange some stuff here. So what I'm gonna do is Here's the game plan. We're gonna do one initial wash that's going to cover everything but the highlights. And then we're going to start placing in the actual elements. Now, I will leave the tree highlights white and this example, so the initial washes going to paint everything around them. I do want to keep this fairly saturated and interesting in that regard because I got to paint, and this is a personal choice. I got to paint quite a lot of more bland scenes, more muted scenes lately, I do want for my own sake and sanity to have this one a little more strongly saturated. So we're gonna start with a pretty strong blue. I think. Let's add a bit of pure blue into that. This is gonna be our sky. Notice how with these small sizes, you can have a lot of fun and really take your time. That's what I love about it. Now, let's pour in a bit more of pure blue. See, just to get some interests going. Now, we're getting to the treats. Here. I'm going to drop pure yellow into the mix like that. And here's the thing. The foliage itself is misleadingly darker than you would think. It's very easy to be confused and think it's the lighter than it actually is. So don't worry about really going strong here with the yellows. Look, I'm really digging through the well and going dark because I understand that the foliage itself is much darker than it appears. So don't worry about going to even a little too strong here. I'm going to add a bit of red to it just to keep some interest in it. Then we can kind of go back to the sky here and go back to this blue bit tainted by the, actually, let's clean it up a bit. Let's get it to be pure. Something like this. Now here we need to start watching out for the highlights. So what I'm gonna do is just very casually go around the tree branches they put doesn't have to be perfect. And we are painting pretty small here. So I'm going for an overall impression. As many of my paintings are, especially around the main tree branches. I'm going to be a little more careful now here's the good news. If we missed some three branches are some tree barks that we want to have highlights on. The good news is we can always use opaque paint. We can come back with a bit of white or what do you call it? Like I have this warm white, so kind of like buff titanium, similar, not exactly the same. And you can use these to bring back the highlights you've lost. So don't don't be too worried about missing the highlights. Okay, it's fine. It's not too bad now we're gonna get to the ground and the ground, again, the green is fairly dark. I know it can look a little wider, but it is white dark sometimes. So I'm gonna get this whole thing a little darker than I think it should be. Like. So Let me see, We're going back to some stronger green. And I'm going to add into this mix a bit of sap green just to get a bit of a pure, you see, the sap green is very strong, two, so it will be combined nicely with the rest. Now, a common mistake I see a lot of people make is, they are greens aren't varied. And look at how much variation we have here. We have yellow areas, we have red areas, we have all sorts of different areas in different color. Dominance is even the grass here. I'm going to put a lot of yellow into. One of the main mistakes a lot of people make with greens is they just do one green all over the thing and it ends up looking very, very artificial. That's the word I was looking for. So if you want to avoid that, be sure to vary your greens. Have a bit of sap, to have a bit of new gamboge in it. I have a bit of red. Play around with it. Greens are very rarely pure green. Okay, now we're going to let this dry for a bit and come back and start adding in the tree barks and the foliage here. That's, that's where most people have their problems. So let's let it dry and come back. 7. Adding details: Now this is fully dry and what I wanna do is before we get to this main section, Let's start with the muted section in the background, okay, with, it's not necessarily muted, but with the trees you see farther background. And I'm going to try and go for a more muted color to really contrast with the trees that are more in the front. So I'm kind of picking up leftovers from whatever I got here. Bit of red, a bit of blue, a bit of yellow. And hopefully this you see that's quite neutral. We're going to use that and get the entirety of the bottom part. In. Another common mistake people make again is overworking their trees. So in order to combat that, we're making some elements of the foliage very loose and unique, unique value. So it's just one value you see here. Just one value that's kind of in the middle. Maybe even light. Let's get a bit more strength to it. It's going to be too light. Alarms sound the alarms, we're going to need to work at it fast. So this, I think, is more likely just added a bit more paint and let's dip into it again just to get it a little darker, not too much, and continue moving on. So because this is going to be at the front and it's going to be so full of maybe details and the risk of being overworked. I want now I wonder if the background is too dark. But whatever, we'll stick to it, worst-case, it's gonna be too dark, it's not a big deal. So yeah, so this is the main actor here in the scene, which is why we want to get the background a little more muted, a little dumbed down. Not with as many details so that we don't run the risk of having conflicting focal points that are two conflicting. Just be sure to, while you're working on these small shapes, you have the opportunity to be even more certain. You get the shape actually correctly. Okay, so just take your time with it and try and get the shape a little more accurate. Now you see how we have two layers of foliage. I'm going to make the separation here. We're going to keep certain area in delight. So you see how I make the separation between the top and the bottom just by doing this gap here. If you look at the reference photo, you will see it. So hopefully that makes sense. The solution is always to just look at the reference. Sometimes you need to look at it a little longer. Sometimes it's the impression is there really fast. So take your time if it doesn't make sense at first and you look at the photo and you're like, I don't know what to do with it. Sometimes it's just about taking your time and trying to let it come to you. The impression, I'm putting these gaps in between these trees that are a little darker. The gaps, that is, I'm going to paint at all the way to the ground like so. And we're pretty much done with the background. Again, we're keeping this fairly simple. Now on to this area. We already got a base, but you will need to this the lightest parts of the foliage you see are actually darker. So what I'm gonna do is start applying a wash and then into that I'm going to inject the wet-in-wet, darker spots. But here's the thing. You want to avoid, overworking it at pretty much at all costs. So let me show you how I do it. At least one way of doing it then is to use very, very unified shape. So no matter where I go with the edges, the main core shape is going to be 11. Single shape. That is. So I'm going to switch to a bigger brush because this is too small. This is going to be my initial tree value. We're going to get it darker in just a moment. And I need to work somewhat fast here. Let's make it more interesting with some yellows again, remember you have to vary it if you want to create some interests, the edges are going to play an important role in creating that interests. Now notice how much contrast there isn't a in the original photo. So we're going to infer that in just a moment. Let's put it in a bit of yellow in there. Now when we get a baseline, Let's start injecting darker values into it, wet and wet. So let's see what we got. Bit of blue here, a bit of red, even to mute and neutralize some of the shadows you see. And just one dark shape, not few dark shapes, not every single leaf like that. Don't do that. Okay, For this instance where we're trying to simplify things, try and have it in one go simple as you can. I'm going to add a bit of this warm, warm red. And again, whether you like this kind of look or not, that's up to stylistic choice and whatever you enjoy, generally speaking. But I do want you to take from this the, the simplicity and the shapes. That's really key in my opinion, get the shapes to be as simple as you can. And I'm all for going more detail, showing more of the details, working larger even. But just for starters, if you find yourself overworking things, often, try go the other way around and see how that connects. Okay? Try going a little looser like I'm doing here. Let's connect some of the tree branches here. Just putting in some of them already now in this state. And out of this foliage, we're going to go straight into the tree barks, the actual tree trunks. So let me show you how I do this. I just go like that and connect, okay, it's all connected. If you can connect them, it will just simplify the impression for the viewer even more. Now the most important part is to keep that highlight on the right. So I'm going to try and avoid it like that. You see? Like so. And just pull down some of these tree barks if you get a bit of the papers texture showing, which is going to be hard and these smaller sizes, that can be a plus because then you get this feeling like it's an actual tree bark. You see right here. These secondary lines of the brush. That's actually something that works to our benefit. So don't, don't be scared by that. This, maybe this branch casts a shadow onto this tree-lined scene. And just try to see what the painting like the mindset is to think about what the painting needs at this stage. Does it need a little more detail here with the leafs go for it doesn't need a little strengthening here and there. The top parts go for it doesn't need more branches coming out of the tree trunks. Go for that. You see what I mean? And it's just about doing this a lot. If you can, for starters, not over-complicate the foliage. That's good. Now, don't forget, we do still have quite a lot of details here, so it's fine too. Go a little looser on the tree trunks. Okay, it's fine not to include as many details there. Now here when we get to another important part. And that is the cast shadows by the tree. So I'm going to add a bit of sap green to this mix so that the shadows are a bit of a darker version of the already green that we have here. And if you can connect it to the tree barks while they're still wet. That's a plus. It's not a must. But it can just improve the overall flow of the painting. I hope that makes sense. Connect this one here. This one is to the bank. This tree bark here. Sometimes you need to make these connections again. So I put this shadow and then I go back and add some details onto the tree bark you see like so. And perhaps the tree bark, bark expands. So we want to get these spending parts with the shadow. It's a bit hard sometimes to explain what those are really bad with words, but hopefully that makes sense. I'm going to add a couple of other tree branches here. And lastly, let's add this beautiful shadow in the foreground. Again, I'm going to try not to do this the same exact same sap green. And I'm going to mix it up a bit and let's warm it. So I'm adding a bit of red to it. This will both warm it and neutralize it. We have this kind of a shape that goes all the way from here. You see if you can get it in one go and keep the freshness, that'll be good because it's so much so in the foreground. Also keep it thin because remember we see the ground at an angle. It's not in front of us like the trees, It's actually on the ground. Let's go edit like this. Let's add a bit more paint here. And I don't mind varying get into a bit of a stronger read like that. But it does play an important role in the overall composition and kind of connecting all of the bottom of the scene. You see how that works. I think that looks nice. Actually we have another kind of shadowed. It's framing the right side. So let's close that off a bit. And this is mostly it now, if you're like me, sometimes you don't like the white as much. The white of the paper feels kind of sticking out, like it's sticking out too much. So what I'm gonna do here is just get a bit of as pure yellow as I can muster here. Like so. And what we're gonna do is just add a touch of that to the tree trunks, just to make them a little more math to match with the rest of the color scheme here I'm actually using a piece of paper as a palette. That's fun. So here we go, you see it just gets the tree trunks local, little better and more connected, I guess, to the scene itself. Now Funny enough, I actually liked the shape of highlights, so we probably will not have to change anything in that regard. I'm not gonna go over with white paint. It actually looks good to me like that. Now you may find, I think one last thing, this now looks much better in my opinion. But you may find that there isn't enough of the clearer leaves and foliage. So let me show you what I mean. I'm going to mix back this neutral green, okay? And just to create some more layering and interests, let's add a bit of that foliage here as well. You see it? It does exist in other places. And I feel like having a just round here is a little too unnatural. So I'm going to add a bit more of it, some chunks of it here and there. Here. Just to hit a bit of to break through this very flat and unified shape. Okay, I hope that makes sense. Here we go, something like that. And I think with that, we're done. So let me sign this one and remove the tape. I'm actually going to do it while filming because I haven't done it while filming lately. I'm going to sign it really small here above the shadow. Sometimes I like to stick my signatures and funny spots. If it's just a fun little piece like that, I don't mind that. Let us remove the tape and see what we got here. I'm going to remove the pallet away. And you can see here that the border is gonna be, I think, really good looking. The blue of the sky sticks out a bit too much. I would've neutralized is a little more had I done this one again, but I may make a larger version of this, but anyway, here it is, up-close. I hope you enjoyed this one. Just simplify it into one big shape and pay special attention to the edges. Try and see this as just one big lump of foliage, and that's how you avoid overworking it. Don't go edit small dabs every leaf. It doesn't matter. Get the main shape in first. That's one way to keep things. I can say later on you can slowly and gradually move towards more detailed work while still keeping it not overworked. Okay, Now let's wrap it up face to face. So this is it for this one, I hope you found it useful. And once again, I know foliage can be challenging. Focus on the large shapes, focused on the big areas. Don't try to paint every small leaf. That's something you can definitely explore later on. Or you can make it seem smaller and focus maybe just on one tree, one branch, one small group of foliage. And that gives you more freedom to add more details on the leaves or paint larger. That's always an option. And I hope to see you again real soon.