The Art of Image Transfers - Packing Tape Transfers

1. Intro: As the name suggests, image transfer is a method that involves transferring an image that has been printed on paper onto a different background or new backgrounds using a specific medium or method. Image transfers and paintings, and photographs and drawings, nor are they prints. They are absolutely amazing. They are versatile and the technique is very effective. Height, my name is Nina, I'm an artist educator and online content creator. And this class is the first in a series of classes that are going to deal with various methods of image transfers. In this first-class, we are going to learn how to create image transfers using clear packing tape. Yes, you've heard correctly, you can use simple clear packing tape or sedative to create the most amazing image transfers. In the beginning we are going to have a look at all the tools and materials that you're going to use in this class. Then we're going to look into the actual method of how to use the packing tape or silver tape to create the image transfers. Once we've mastered this technique, we will then explore several projects involving packing tape transfers, starting very simple ideas that are easy to follow. But if you would like to take it a bit further, I've also included more advanced art projects. However, this class is suitable for total beginners and you don't need any previous experienced. There's a few who are more experienced crafters or artists. Once you know the basic technique of packing tape transfers, you can just hop on to the more advanced methods in this class. I have made you at least a little bit curious about the image transfer method. I would absolutely love to see you inside this class. So why not have it go and join us in the studio? See you there. 2. Tools & Materials: Okay, so first of all, let's have a look at the tools and materials we're going to need for this class. First of all, as the name of the class suggests, we will need some packing tape and we definitely need the transparent tape for this. They usually come in two widths. It's one is like the normal solid tape width and the other one is slightly wider, probably about twice the width or facilitate. It doesn't really matter what brand you go for. I've tried various tapes and it didn't matter if they were more expensive or cheaper. They all worked. Well. You will have to do with images that are bigger than the tape. You will have to layer it and you will have to overlap. The individual strips of tape. Both work really well. So if you just have solid table at home and you want to get started, that is absolutely fantastic, That is brilliant. You don't need anymore. You, if you've got any of this one at home, you can use this, you can use both. And I also find that for some images, it gives different extra dimension and exited detail whenever I'm using the thinner tape. So even for bigger pictures, I will sometimes use the thinner one, but we will talk more about this when we're actually going to start on the image transfers. Then the second thing we're going to need our images. If you've taken any of my other classes, you probably know that I'm a big believer in using what we've already got and making use of materials that might otherwise be recycled or not be used rather than go out and buy new materials. So I've got a whole stack of various magazines. Some of them are actually quite old but just Kept hold of them because I know that I can use them at various craft project. So it doesn't really matter what you go for. As long as there are images in there that you think you would like to use for your image transfers. Then something else that works really well are not only magazine spread obviously, catalogs, that various forms of catalogs around. So make sure that before you put anything into the recycling, just to maybe go quickly through them and see if there are any images you might like. Also talking about the paper quality for this type of image transfer of find that any paper quality seems to work. There. Some work a little bit better than the others. And I even find that, let's say one publication like the country living magazines. Just get one out. I used to be subscriber, so I've got kind of like ten and more year old publications and then I've got new ones. And you can just tell when you're working with them that obviously the inks and what I might call them, the glazing or the finished the varnish on top of the glossy magazines will have changed over time and some are lot easier to transfer than others, but you will just have to play around and just see what happens. And I find that's one of the really beautiful things about image transfers. That there's always a little bit of an unexpected result that he learned to play with that. This is another really nice one. It's gorgeous paper. I really like this for various craft and art projects. But this is a clove catalog. And these are really, really brilliant to use. Then as I've got quite a lot of sheet music, I tend to use sheet music a lot and lots of art projects. But if you come across any sheet music and I don't know, secondhand bookshops or charity shops. They always worthwhile picking up because they're so useful in so many craft and art projects. So you could use that as well. Then think about wall calendars. You could use a probably try a few. Images. And here for our class, another really amazing and fantastic go-to stash of materials or old books. Anything that you can find in charity shops that can be a bit tatty or something that you really feel when be really used but has fantastic images in there. So I'm thinking about using something out of here for one of the projects. Then children's books. Really good. They've got some really fantastic images and they tend to work really well. I've got these. Then. I also planning on using some images from this book. This is quite glossy and I did try and image transfer just to see if it worked. And it did work really, really well. So we'll be playing around with some of these images as well. Then another paper sores that you shouldn't forget is wrapping paper. I've got here some Christmas Eve wrapping paper because I just couldn't find all my other wrapping paper. So just ordinary wrapping paper and your birthday wrapping paper works really well. It's no rant about Christmas time. You could just think about just using a reindeer and do an image transfer if you ran this and then you can stick those on on parcels and you're going to have a look at this later on. This is really nice to be used in strips or just again, little details of this. Yes. And then just any other nice paper? This is tissue paper. And I have used something like tissue paper before for an image transfer. What we're going to have a look at this one as well in this class. So you can see that's going to be a lot of, Let's have a go and see if this works in this class. I've worked with a lot of them. But I still find it also really important in a class to add an element of not knowing what it's going to happen in it. And why I like doing is it's just to encourage you to keep trying and just work with the results and not get disheartened if something doesn't work out because at least you've tried and then you know, Okay, this doesn't work. But the other thing I tried worked really well. So always keep trying and don't get, don't get discouraged. Then something else you can do is work with images. Like I've got this vintage clip art. And I find it quite nice to kind of like make my own little stickers this wave for my journal or just to put it onto presence or just wherever I think I should have a sticker. So what I've done, I've found some free vintage clip hard on the Internet, and I printed it out on my computer. It's very important to know I've got an inkjet printer, so you can't use images that have been printed out on an inkjet printer. If you have a laser printer, that would work really well. But for an inkjet printer, because we are going to work with water, it will just dissolve the inks and your image transfer won't work, not with a packing tape. This sort of image transfer works with other media, but not with a packing tape. I then went to our local library and just took some photocopies of my printed out sheets of paper. That works again because the toner that is in photocopiers works really well. So what I have done then is just also choose a few images from my trip to Paris earlier this year. Because what I want you to do, I'm going to create a journal that is all about my trip to Paris. And that is going to be a class based on this that is going to be published and is kind of like already in the making. But I thought it would be nice to not only have printed out for two graphs of my journey, but have photographs from my truck for my trip to Paris and just play with the images. So I'm going to do a few image transfers that will hopefully then make their way into my into my travel journal. Now that we've looked at the different kinds of images you can use, I'm quickly going to take you through the tool we're going to need for this class. Right? So apart from the actual packing tape, you're going to need a pair of scissors. One just to cut the packing tape to cut out the images. And maybe smaller pair of scissors. If you then wanted to cut more detail into the packing tape. You're going to need a bone folder to burnish your images. But you could use the back of this scissors or anything else. And then for one of the ideas I have which are going to be the Polaroids, you would also need some cut stock and a ruler pencil, a glue stick. And this is absolutely this optional. And then to store the images because you won't be using them all at once and they are all going to be a bit sticky, so more than others, but you don't want to store them on paper because then they will stick. Really good. Way of storing them is on grease proof paper and then have them in folders. So that would be another good thing to have if you haven't got any at hand the moment. So any kind of black plastic bag or if you've got if you have laminated anything but you don't need that piece of laminated. That lemon is to cheat anymore. You can also stick them on there. Before I forget you're going to need a container. It could be bowl. It could be something like a storage box or a small kind of like a washing up bowl. And you are going to need some water as well. 3. Putting the Tape on - Part 1: I'm going to start with two smaller images just to show you the basics of the image transfer. This one is a clip art. Both of these have been printed on my, on my inkjet printer and then photocopied. This is obviously a color photocopy. And this is just a black and white photocopy. That's just because I haven't got a laser printer. And I can choose and ink jet printer print because the ink will just dissolve. I'll start with the smaller one. And I'm going to use my wide packing tape. As you can see, I am using my my cutting mat to work on. The reason for this is that, um, my table is quite old. Some of the varnish is coming off. I put some of the tape onto the table. Then it would pick up some of the varnish. And I don't really want that. So you might want to look for either using your cutting mat or a laminated sheets or maybe a plastic placemat or something like that. I haven't got a dispenser neither for my packing clip, not for my standard tape. I usually put a little paperclip under the end of the tape because it's easier to just find it that way. I'm going to use the whole width of this packing tape to cover the image. The size is just perfect. Something that I find that for some reason the paper or almost wants to jump up onto the tape. Have to be aware of this. I'll just try and hold it in place while at the same time sticking it down. Then I'm going to use my bone folder to burnish the image. Because I want the area of my image to really, really kind of stick onto the tape so that the stickiness, the glue of the tape can really hold onto to the ingrown toenail in this case. Okay. That should be enough. Just cut off. Let me give tapes. So this one is done. For this one. I'm going to use the seller tape just to show you how I kind of layer the, the tape or severe this image, you'll see that I've cut kind of like a rectangle or rectangular shape around the image itself, which I haven't done here. The reason being that I had quite a few images quite close to this one, so it had to cut around it. However, I'm still going to layer the tape, so it will end up with a rectangular shape for this image. The reason being that the tape is delicate and I don't really want to tear it. And it will be a lot easier to use the final packing tape transfer. It will also be easier to get rid of the paper without having to worry that you might damage the tape. Okay? For this, you might want to make sure that you're a surface is really nice and clean so it doesn't pick up the tape. Basically doesn't take up any dirt if possible. Then I'll just stick down the first layer. Go up to here because the tail of the bird ends. There's, I want my tape to go all the way around here. The next trip or set a tape will have to overlap. The first one. I have just a few millimeters or enough. Because basically you need this tape to stick together. Because once you're washing off the paper, if you still want all the strips of tape to stick together, if I just put my strips of set of tape right next to each other so they wouldn't so they wouldn't overlap if I washed off the paper background, my salad tape strips would fall apart. Something to keep in mind. If you would do in a particular image transfer or a mixed media project where you would want your image to be on separate strips of solid tape. Probably need at least one more groundless going to overlay. Again, I'm going to make sure that I get the whole image because I really don't want to lose any detail. Okay. I'm going to peel it off heavily. Then I can already cut some of the tape off. I would say around about here. Might've been easier to have done that with my knife. What we're still on the cutting mat, but careful. There we go. So I've now got my first two images ready. And basically, that's the technique or the technique of partying on the packing tape onto images. And you would do it the same way with images from magazines or books or any other images. We using. I am going to make another video where I'm going to show you some other techniques. What you can do, first of all, how to deal with bigger images. And then I'm also going to play with the paper. Basically I'm going to crease the paper to create a different effect on the packing tape transfer. But this is all in a different video. 4. Putting the Tape on - Part 2: So here I've got a bigger image. This is an image obviously from a magazine. So first of all, I'll finish cutting it out. And then I'm also going to cut off the writing here because I don't want it on my image. I am going to use the wider tape for this. I would recommend in the beginning maybe using the narrow tape because I do find it easier to work with. I also start with smaller images and then basically work your way up to bigger images. You can basically go either this way or the other way. I think I'm just go this way. Again, be aware of the fact that the paper might come up towards you sometimes with bigger images, I'll just put something heavier on the image that seems to help a little bit. Then again, if i'm I'm overlapping the tape a little bit so it's basically wider than the actual image. I can stick it onto my cutting mat. And that makes things easier. Now, I have to make sure that overlap that first. This is actually lying, really nice and flat. It's not always the case. But as I said, I find that that's one of the really beautiful aspects of doing these image transfer so that you can never really know what the result is going to be. So you always work with an element of the unknown. Okay, so now at the top, I've only got this little bit left. So it's actually not really necessary for me to use a wide strip. So I'm going to do now, I'm going to patch work. I'm going for the last trip, I'm going to use oversee overlapping. It was just perfect. You can do something like this as well. And then we're back to obviously using the bone folder and just varnishing. We're back to using burnishing the image really well, make sure you take now you take your time with that. Okay, Is it really makes a difference and how well your image turns out. I'm going to use this image in my journal. Probably. Let's see. Okay. And then next I'm going to show you kind of other techniques. Way, basically manipulate the paper before you put the tape on. And then all others do. I'll just cut off type that. I'm not my thing. Just cut off the tape. Sticking out. This one is ready to go into the water bowl. 5. Putting the Tape on - Part 3: As you can see, the process is always very much the same. You are putting your tape onto the image that you want to transfer. I just wanted to give you an additional idea of how you can start playing with the images that you're wanting to transfer. I have a selection of these really fantastic wall calendars. They're all literary wall calendars. They've got lots of fantastic vintage images. So I'm going to choose a couple of those. I might actually use these two. Okay? So what I'm going to try with this one is if I'm thinking of kind of like almost like recreating a vintage photograph out of my packing tape. And I wanted it to look a little bit battered a little bit as if it's being carried around and move from one place to another a little bit creased. I'm just going to crease the image. Then I will automatically have some inconsistencies in the way that the table's going to adhere to the image. I might also try and you try and not put the tape on to perfectly. Whereas usually I will try to make sure that the tape doesn't crease, that there aren't as many air bubbles. So I'll just try and kinda do it and not as perfect way. Just cut it. I can drop it a little bit and yeah, I can already see that I've got even the the tape creasing a bit more. I have to say this is very well-behaved. Tape. Sometimes have tape that has a mind of its own, but this one actually wants to like quite flats. And again, that's something you can experiment with and try different things. I'll still be using my bone folder to make sure that the tape does stick to the image, but there will be areas where it won't stick as well as in some other places. I find even just looking at it like that, it looks it almost looks like an old photograph. So I quite like that. I'm kind of as a comparison with this one, I'm going to just leave it as it is and just quickly cover it with a tape. Again. Before I soak it in water. I will just cut round here to cater for the excess tape. I would definitely recommend that you also choose images to just play around with. Maybe don't start with the images that you really care about. First, give yourself the option to just play with this method and just see how they come out and just getting used to the whole packing tape transfer method. Also tip, sometimes it can happen that I've got a three strips of the white tape. Now I've got this tiny, tiny strip left over here on this side. So what I usually do with this, I can either go over it with my white tape or what I can do instead is just used my cell type and kind of create a little patchwork. And just use that to make up just for that little bit on the side. But again, experiment and see how things work for you. I'm going to repair a few more these transfers and then it's time to put them all in water and let them soak. 6. Removing the Paper: Now it's time for your bottle of water. You can just use cold water that works absolutely fine. It doesn't seem to make any difference. If your water is cold or warm. Sometimes I just have a tablet because I find it's nicer to work in water that isn't freezing cold. Right? Then next, just stick in your prepared tape transfers. Because what we want the paper to do is get soaked with water. And then we can rub away the paper and we will be left with our images. Obviously, a paper that is thinner, like my printer paper won't take that long to soak up enough water with anything else. I would just leave it in for a bit longer, especially if you've got Let's have a look. E.g. the calendar pages were definitely thicker, so this might take a little bit longer to soak up the water and anything that has a glossy finish. So if you've chosen magazine pages like this one or catalog pages have a glossy finish. Those will take a little bit longer to get soaked up. But let's just get started with these. I'm just using my thumbs to just rub away the well, we can actually call it pay for pub now, I don't have to use a lot of pressure comes off nicely because I have to be careful that I don't drop too hard because I don't want to rub away any parts of my image because that is possible you can accidentally rub away parts of your image. But if you're careful on your religious rubbing away the paper, you should be fine. We can already see that almost all of the paper has gone. Once you've got all the paper of your transfer, you can just put it to one side sometimes what I do, I just have a dry towel next to my table and I put them down, upside down. I want the sticky part to look up because obviously I don't want any towel fluff or anything to stick to the back of my images. Just to show you all just sticks and Matthiessen. Mike's also sends to obviously change your water on a regular basis, make sure that you take as much of the pulp out as possible so you don't lock your drains. You don't want to do that. You can definitely put more than one image into the water and get them all to soak. Sometimes I'll just I'll just do a few of the I prepared a few of the images and then just stick them in water. Then I'll go away, do something else. Or this one actually comes way already. I'm go away, come back, have a look. Have a look with this one. Yeah. Slowly. This one is starting. This was coming away. But I know if I left it in for a bit longer, it would be even easier to get it off. Some work with this one. Yeah, this will definitely take a little bit longer. Because you can see it's glossy. I can sum comes off. I might just leave it in there for a bit longer just to make it easier to get the paper off. Let them all soak. Maybe just quickly do the other smaller image. There we go. That should be done. Sometimes, always have a few or a couple of balls on the go. One in which I'm soaking the images and the other one wagon cleaning them off. I find this just makes it easier, especially if you've got quite a few you want to get through. And that was really quick when I've got my little typewriter. Alright, so I let these soak and then starts to get those ready. And we'll just come back for a few updates. And I also want to give you a few tips of what to do with the glossy pages. And if you find it difficult to get the back of the paper off the back. Right? So if you've got a glossy surface and you'll find that it's really tricky to start. If you rub like little circles with your thumb and you find that nothing is happening, you can do, and I would do that in a corner of the image that isn't maybe your most important focal point, e.g. if that was a face or we're doing a difference pod, you can use your fingernail, just gently start scratching just to kind of like a tiny little hole because once you've got an opening there, it will be much easier to get the paper off. So that's a tip for any glossy paper. Then I can just get this little bit off. You will find that some papers will kind of come off in layers. So actually most do apart from the printer paper. So it's almost like I've got this layer off, but I've still got something here. So I just carry on rubbing. It really depends there some papers where you don't seem to be able to just get everything off. What I would go for if you can. If your surface starts to feel really smooth, almost like the friend of your image, like yeah, almost as smooth as this one. Then you should have got rid of most of the paper. However, if it's still feels a bit like little bit rough, like wet bulb is ill or something, then you will still have some paper on there. But sometimes I'll just do it in stages. I'll get some get as much paper off as I can. I can seem to be able to get off. I sometimes even just let it dry. And once it's all dry, you can then see if there's still some paper there. Then I'll just so good again. And try and get the rest of the paper off the tape. You can see that this one will take me this long. Does it take me longer than the first one? Horse you can see that it's you can study. If you didn't know, you wouldn't really know. You can't really tell much that we forgot paper underneath here, but no paper up there. So this one works actually really well. The image transferred amazingly, but you've still got these little areas where you can see this is where the where the two layers, if the solid tape overlap, then there's a crease and the tape, and still these little textures in there that just make it look so different. Okay, That's this one. Then we could just have a quick look. This one came off, yet. This one is coming up beautifully. And that shouldn't be any trouble at all. We can see again that it's coming off in different layers. Are we needing to change the water in a moment? So yeah, that's coming off really, really nicely. And what about this one? Yeah, same here. This one was a little bit thicker, but because I've lifted in the water to soak, it's coming off really nicely. To finish this one. All fantastic. I absolutely loved this. Remember this was the one that I creased. And I can't tell you how beautiful this result is. It really is. I'm really thrilled and I know I'm going to do more like this. We've got something else in here. Let's just have a quick look. This one's looking like, Yeah, that's one, that one's coming off quite nicely. Again, you can see the different layers. Just get a little bit more. Perfect. Absolutely perfect. You can really see how, if you just use this core nice e.g. here you can really see my fingers. So that wouldn't be really brilliant for layering. You go back to this and I know I haven't quite finished it. But you know, at the top, It's see-through, but it has really taken a lot of the color on the original page. So you can see that different kept taking different images from different kind of different magazines and pages and destroying you get so many different results. And it's just really beautiful and so exciting. So I'll be cleaning all of this off. And then we can get started by having a look at some of the projects that you can do with your image transfers. 7. 1. Packing Tape Stickers: Right, So let's first have a look at how you can use your packing transverse as very simple stickers. This is my bullet journal. I don't have a pretty beautiful bullet journal on my bullet journal is very practical. But I still like to use some washi tapes. I'm just thinking if I was e.g. to have a to-do list and I wanted to have like an anything I need to write or if e.g. I. Had my list of e-mails to ride or let us write anything. I could use a typewriter. And then I can have this as a, instead of writing my writing to do list, I can just use my little sticker. It's really quick and easy. And I really like this page layout and then I'll just start doing my list. Then another option, e.g. in this one, I've used one of these stickers just here. They I photocopied some of the, these vintage scrap paper images. And these look really pretty in journals or junk journals as well, but you could also use them to decorate any letters, you right? Okay. So this is basically the easiest way of using your packing tape transfers as stickers. You can almost make it like your own series of stickers. Next, we're going to have a look at how to very quickly make a tag that you can use either as a bookmark or as a tag to add to presence. 8. 2. Packing Tape Tags: Another idea you can use the packing type transfers would be to create those little luggage labels. And I like to use them to put them as kinda like name tags on presence. But you could also use those as bookmarks or in your junk journals. So I'm going to use the OWL. Just had a quick look on how big my label and needs to be. Obviously, if you've got a ready-made and carts luggage labels, you can just use those. You can buy them readymade, but you could very easily just make them yourself. I'm going to use Kraft paper, but you could just use card stock and any color that you like that we're this one just to have a look. This one. I like this size. Actually, quite good. Other words we can just do basically you just measure how wide it needs to be. This one, I would probably want to go about 5.5 cm wide. Then it's let's give her 10 cm, ten, maybe even 11. 11 times five. Okay, let's do that. Okay? So if you've got one, if you've got large labored at home, you can also use that as a template to make more. Then obviously the next thing that needs to happen is to make it look like one at one of these luggage labels is to cut off these corners. You can just usually I just eyeball the corners, but I might in this case just use this one as a template and just cut off the corner. Just like that. If, if I didn't have that, I would just probably do something like that and try and have a similar angle on the other one. And there we go. Next, I am going to use my hole punch, but just for one whole again, I'm going to just eyeball it and try and punch a hole somewhere in the middle. This case, I could actually make two. Next, I'm going to use these a whole enforcement stickers. They usually come in packs of many. I think this one came in near 300. To make it kind of like a blend in with the theme. I've just use a stamp pad to color them in. These are quite dark. It's actually black just because I couldn't find my brown stamp pad. But again, you can do that really in any color that would go with the card stock that you've chosen. Okay. I'll do one on either side there and I'll grab my image. Usually these stickers are still very, very sticky, especially if you're using the clipboard, because it only had to take on a little bit of ink rather than the other images that have a lot of color that they take up and then it loses the stickiness. But these tend to be quite sticky. If they're not sticky enough, you can just use a glue stick to attach them. Have a look wherever you want this. Yeah, I think that looks quite good. Let's put it on. And then I'll just use the scissors to cut off any of the tape that is hanging over. There we go. I might even get my bone folder just to make sure that it's sticking really nicely. On a little label. Fantastic. And then I've got some bakers twine here, which I'm going to use. That was kinda like an off cut. I think the the last bit of the bakers Twine, but it's just the length is perfect. So I'm going to use, and there we go. We've got our little kind of a gift tag or bookmark label that we made using one of our packing tape transfers. 9. 3. Simple Cards: In this video, we are going to take the idea of packing tape transfer sticker step further. In principle, it's the same idea. But this way you can make a very simple card. And we're adding, if you wanted to, we're adding an extra layer of creativity to the whole project. As you can see, I've already got a simple card finished. This has a story behind it. As you can see, I've not only got the sticker of a lady drinking a cup of tea, but I've also got these letters on here. And so basically what happened? I was wondering whether I wanted to put this a packet tech transfer on to a book page, lifted there. Then came back and decided that I didn't really like it, but because this tape was quite sticky, I couldn't just pull it off the book page. So I had to soak it again and the paper came off. But the letters stayed on. And I thought it was actually a really interesting accident that happened. So that's something else you can do, is have one transfer. And if the back is still really sticky, you can put it on something else and create another layer on the back of your packing tape. But I thought this would make a really nice image to be put onto a card and send to a friend. Just to say, would you like to meet up for a cup of coffee or a cup of tea? In this case. All the cards that I have here, our watercolor paper. And I've used ink to just give them a wash because I felt it might be quite nice to have a color. As a background. You can basically use any card stock you have at home. We might have ready-made cards that you can just use to make things really easy for yourself. If you have card stock, you can cut it to size. It doesn't have to be white. You can use a different color. I would probably go with cameras at onto dark just because you won't be able to really see the image that well, if your card stock is too dark, but just experiment and see what, what it looks like and what you personally like as a background. Then I just used watercolor paper. I had a home. I didn't go for anything special. You can also stain just ordinary card stock as long as it's not too thin. This was just a card stock that is about the same. Maybe it's a little bit thicker. I think it's exit eight. I would have to look up, um, how how thick it is, but it is basically that the normal kind of card stock you can buy. And this has been stained with coffee. And that's what I've done with this one. I thought it would look quite nice to have coffee stained card stock to put this on. And also the other thought I had that even though I really like the blue, it turned the lady's face blue, which made her look a little bit ill, or potentially made her look a little bit evil, which is fine depending on what you're going for with your image or what your messages with the image? Yes. So what I've done, I've did two different things on these two piece of watercolor paper. I added first, added a thin layer of water with a brush, and then added the ink on top. Basically, this way the ink tends to just kind of distribute itself more evenly across the background. However, on this one, I didn't. And you can see that it has I know the color is a little bit darker. But you can see that this is kind of spread out more evenly than here. And exactly I wanted to have an effect where I could also have a bit, what I would call maybe a little bit more structure within the color itself. Then you can see that I've got some have clean edges and these have torn off edges. Basically what I've just done is use a ruler, line it up, and then just rip or tear the paper along the edge of a ruler. The ruler will help to keep a straight line. So it really depends on what look you're going for then. Yes. So I thought I'll just show you quickly how I then I can just very quickly make another card. I've chosen another one of the Victorian scrapbook images, and I thought that we could make a nice little birthday card. We can just have a quick look of what this image would look like with a different backgrounds. We've got that could look like it was a blue a little bit like a sky in the background. Then if we I should have had one that is just white. But if we turn this round, that gives you an idea of what it might look just on just white card stock, which is absolutely fine to do. Um, these two are quite similar. I like both, but I think I'm going to go with this background because it really makes a little pink flowers pop and gives the whole image. I kind of like a really nice warm feel to it. And let me just see. I think I might go with having them in the right corner with this one. I just had it on the right-hand side. So with this one, I'll just have it there and then I'll just grab my glue stick and glue it on. As you can see, I sort of did a fussy cutting around the edges. The reason was that I didn't have it. My tape wasn't the tables quite uneven, especially at the bottom, so I had to even it out. So very, very carefully, not quite fussy, cut it, but left a little edge around it. Because I find if you fatty cuts very delicate features because the tape is so delicate, it might just tear. So I tried not to do that. And also when I'm using the glue stick because I don't want any of the little details to it. I don't want to don't want to accidentally tear them off. I go from the middle to the outside. Make sure that effort glue everywhere. Then I can just position it and glue it on a card. And wallah, I have got another card that I can send and I really, really, really like it. I think it looks really nice and also the torn edge looks really nice with this one. I'm just thinking about it. You could very easily make journaling cards in the same way and just add a few more layers. As you can see, there's so many ways of how you can use these packing tape transfers. So, um, anyway, as you can see this another really simple, easy, quick way of using your packing tape transfers. And now let's move on to the next idea. 10. 4. Simple Fake Polaroids: Next we're going to look into creating fake Polaroids. Or I've also had them being referred to as foliar Royds. An expression I really, really like and I wish I had come up with this one. Basically that two ways of doing them. I'm going to show you both. One is really simple and straight forward way of doing it. And the second one is a little bit more complex. It's either way, it's still easy to do, but it takes a little bit more time. I'm a bit more accuracy and it's a little bit fiddly. I personally prefer the second method because those really look like fake Polaroids. But if you're just getting started, this is a fantastic way of, I'm creating your own little fake Polaroids. Let's just stick with the term furlough, right? Okay. Basically the difference between the two of these is that in the first one, all I've done really is take a piece of white card stock and decided on the size of my Polaroid. They furlough words always come in a rectangular shape. And then the picture I've used is kind of a square. Sometimes they are kind of a square. Butt. Still. One side is a little bit longer. Usually. I find it really depends on the picture. And sometimes you might just want to go ahead and let me just have a look. If I've got one, you really just want to go ahead and have this square. I think this one is more or less a square. And sometimes you want to just add a little bit more. So it's worthwhile playing around with your, with your images. The second variation is, yeah, Sorry, I've spilled some coffee over this one or had an accident with a coffee cup. So I've got coffee sprinkles on this. But Haidt all adds to the kind of like a vintage feel of the Polaroids. And basically it's, it's very similar, but your image is being sandwiched between the back of your further right and the frame. So first of all, perhaps have a look at the simple and straightforward way of creating a Polaroid. You can see I've got two examples here. I've got a bigger one and a smaller one. Again, I tend to vary the sizes depending on the size of my image. But what I'm going to do, have a template for you with the kind of the original size of a Polaroid if that helps you to get started. I'm also going to include at least one frame size. So I've, the images I'm going to use for this video came from a magazine? No, actually a catalog for children's clothing. And basically, I just wanted to kinda give you an idea how you could also use family photographs to create these photo road. So in this case, you would have to get a color copy of the photographs. You want to turn into a furlough, right? Either by printing them out on your inkjet printer and then taking them to your local library. Or printers are a place where you can get a color photocopies. Or if you've got a laser printer at home, you can just use your laser printer. So but yeah, but I went for images from a catalog and those work out the normal glossy images. I did prepare them in the same way as before. I used white tape on all of these. And I left the left the paper in the water for quite a while because I just didn't didn't have the time to deal with them immediately and they came off really well, or I could almost just peel them off. Right? I'm going to use this image for the first variation. So if I have a quick look, I might actually use one of my frames. I tend to have some, while, not tend to. I have, I have a few templates that I tend to use when I'm creating my Polaroids. And those also help you just have a look at what the picture would look like. And to give you an idea of how big you might want, wanted to be. Here. This is quite, quite a nice size because I want both girls to be on there. Let's have a look here. It was just a little bit smaller even that works. This is kind of like really sweet because you're almost, it's almost like a headshot. And I've just added quite a, quite like it. It gives me, it gives a picture of a more intimate feel to it. And this is a really small one and even that would be really, really sweeter. Just have a little one. Think I might go with roughly about this size. So let's just have a quick look. So this one is 11 cm long and 8.5 cm wide. And I find that this is kind of the, let's say the traditional size. So if I just get started with that, I need to put this to one side. You can see I've already used some of this cart stock for another Polaroid. Just see how long would this part B now that's a bit too short, but I might just go ahead. Okay, So we'll need 8.5 cm width. Okay? Check this might actually be 11. Yes. I've got my furthermore it background. Now, all I need to do is just cut my image to size. Let's just have a look again. If I was just too, I'm just going to go for this. So then that means the image would be 6.5 cm wide, 7 cm long. Yeah, this is what I find that I personally find that the pictures look best if they are at just a tiny little bit longer than wide. And this is just really only 5 mm. Do I mean, one thing you could do if you've got a template is just put your template onto the image and then kinda like use a pen or something that will ride or will make a mark on the tape. And then let me just mark the four corners. Or you can just use your ruler. And I'll show you in a second. Basically, you could just say, okay, this is a bird. I'm kind of 6.5. I like this. And then you make a little mark there so you know where you need to cut it. And the same contract this way. But I do find that A-frame really helped because then you know exactly what part of the image you want. You want to see on your Polaroid. Okay, comes the cutting part. I again find that a cutting mat really helps me because I can just have the image on there, restraint. It, it won't move around. And then I can just use my, uh, my knife to cut it. Now I've just line up the two marks I made. I try and catch it really gently because obviously I don't want wanted to tear. I can actually see it comes off. That's one. Just cut very carefully. You don't have to use a lot of pressure. It's just really easy to just pull this away. Now I'm going to turn it around. I could turn my cutting mat. But maybe this is easier. As you can see, I'm also using the lines on my cutting mat. That again makes it so much easier to do all the cutting plan. I just have to find my marks. Again, I can use my cutting mat or is it a wound? This as a top of my image so I could just cut this off. And then I said it's 7 cm long, so I can just use the squares on my cutting mat, so that would be 1234567. And I can also see my marks can work this another way that the cutting mat kind of like it really helps. Let's double-check 345678 at 6.5 and seven. Again, you might want to just practice this with an image maybe let's say from a catalog or an image that isn't, isn't really precious. So just so that you get, get a feel for cutting the your image transfer and also measuring it. And maybe that also takes the pressure off a little bit. Sue. I never that would be I'm just eyeballing this at the moment. Something like that. Where I might do again is use my use my frame. And again, just make little dots in the corner. So I kind of like, you know, what I need to position my image in. The other thing you can do is obviously just eyeball it. You could put it on. Depending on how sticky your your images, you can just put it on. The other way, round, eyeball it and say, okay, this looks good. Then make the little marks so you know where you need to position it. If you are tape is still really sticky. You probably don't need any any glue. I find this is sticky, but I really wanted to adhere to the back of the of my card stock. Go. You might get some creases and then I get it here. It was because of the way actually managed to put to how flat I was able to put the tape onto the original image. So there was a little kind of like a little crease. I'm just going to try and use my bone folder to flatten it as much as I can. And then just not worry about any little creases or imperfections because I feel those are just part of part of the look. There we go. And I have to say, I'm really, really pleased with this one. It looks really cute. And as you can see, it doesn't take very long to make. And they really look like a little Polaroids. I, okay, So, and in the next video, I'm going to show you how to create the more complex Polaroids with these little frames. 11. 5.1. Fake Polaroids with Frame: Fantastic. So in this video we're going to look at how we can create a furlough Royds with images that are basically sandwiched between a backboard and a frame. I, um, I'll just show you a few examples of some of the photos that I've got. You can tell that some of them have different sizes. I've been talking about this in the previous video. I'm basically once you've got the hang of how to create these Polaroids, it's really nice to be able to play around with the different formats and sizes. I know there used to be like that. The one size in the olden days when when the first Polaroid cameras came out. But now with a kind of like a revival of the Polaroid, I've seen all sorts of sizes, like really small ones and bigger ones. It's something really nice you can play with depending on the size of your image. I'll try and go for something that is kind of the more or less roundabout, the original size. But maybe if I think this is potentially because I did look it up on the internet to take all the measurements that would have been kind of like the size roughly of what a Polaroid would have looked like. Let's just have a look at my frame, which is actually pretty much the same size. However, I do find that it makes things a lot easier. If your frame is a little bit thicker, then you might have seen or you might see on the old Polaroid is just so much easier to cut and handle. And yet, well, I mean, basically the thinner the frame gets the way the easier it is to make mistakes. So I would suggest start off something that is slightly why does, even if it's something like this and I feel this looks really cute. Let me just have you just measure this. I've actually got almost not quite as centimeter. I think it's about a two millimeter a day. Yeah. I've actually got at the top, I've got 10 mm on the side. I've got 8 mm. Again. Mostly it looks like the top part of a frame is a little bit wider as long as your frame looks, what I might call. So if neat and tidy, It's absolutely fine. And I will make sure that I'll put at least one template, what I might try and do, maybe I'll put the template in for the wider frame and then a template for the thinner frame. And once you've got those two, you can just start playing around with your own frame sizes and make templates. Because I would definitely recommend creating a few templates because it makes life so much easier. So let's put all of these to one side and get started. I'm going to cut the back first. Well, actually I can do the back and the front, and they're going to be again, 8.5 cm width and 11 cm in length. Just do that first. So obviously I've got a template for you to choose. But if you were thinking of, if you didn't want to print out the template, we can just have a quick look. If we have an if he'd go by the 88.5 widths and 11 cm length. The bottom of the photo ROI is about 3.4. You can make it easy. You could make it a little bit longer or you could just make it three point. You can just go with 3.5. So then obviously, just go two by 3.3, 0.4. A few marks there. I put all of those measurements into the template as well. This is the bottom part of your frame. And then just got the three marks. And then I'm just going to draw a line, thin line all the way. We've got seven. It might be seven all the way round and this one actually 777. Yeah. Same here. It just measure this seven. Make little marks. So as I said, it is, it takes a little bit more time. But once you've got your template sorted, you don't really have to do all the measurements unless you were going for something that is completely different size. Now I'm going to cut out the part in the middle. And what I'm doing, It's really helps that I have that my lines kind of overlap because this is going to help me to see exactly where I need to cut and where my corner starts. So if I was to go and cut here because I've got a line coming up from this sideline and the one coming up from there. I know exactly that I need to start cutting in this corner. Then stop at this line, and then basically just stop over there. Okay. Then I'll do it all the way round. And I'm honestly don't worry if, you know, if when you finished cutting out your little window that you feel that your frame doesn't look quite perfect. We know we're doing this by hand. And I've done, I've kept so many. And it doesn't matter how careful I'm doing it, it just happens. And I feel that's okay. We've made them by hand. Okay? Right. So I suppose the more we do it, the better we get. Not too bad. I'm quite pleased with that. Yeah, I think I can live with this, obviously because I've got all the pencil marks on one side. I'm going to turn it around. This is going to be my outside. Now I find that because I've cut that is a little not quite sure how to call it, but it's almost the the card stock has become a little bit uneven, an almost like pushed out. So I'm just using my bone folder to gently push, smooth it out again. There we go. Might also be an idea to protect, to put the word template on your templates so that you know. Okay, and yes, the other thing I do, if you were to use my printable templates, I can either print it out on card stock or printed out and printer paper and then stick it on the back of a cereal box because it will make it so much easier. First of all, use your template if it's made from a sturdy material and also it will last for much longer. Okay, so we've got a back-end for might also want to make sure that they both they both line up. Because again, it doesn't matter how well you've measured. They usually end up not being quite the same size. Or at least whenever I do it, they never seem to be entirely the same size, so I'll just make sure they're the same. The my the backboard seems to be a little bit longer, so I'll just adjust it. Okay. Now, it's time to get our picture. 12. 5.2. Fake Polaroids with Frame: And in this case, whereas before, when with the other image, where is it? There we go. With the other image. We just used this window to. I think it was the other one, the template to measure the size of the image. However, in this case, because we are sandwiching our image in-between the backboard and the frame and the front. Our image needs to overlap a little bit. So basically, let's put it this way round so I can draw on it. I want to cut my image roughly this. I'm going to, I need to add about, I don't know if you millimeter about 5 mm, four to 5 mm, all sides. So I can sandwiches really nicely between the back and the front. However, I can still, what I can do is I'm going to use a ballpoint pen. And then again on the side, I have to make sure that it overlaps. So it has to go a little bit over kind of like that. And then I'll make just a very tiny little dots here. So now I know that I have to when I cut, I need to maybe just do this side close. I have to add a little bit extra. So this is where the frame, this, I've got a little mark here and this is where the actual frame opening is. So if I would just move the ruler little bit to the left so I get extra space. And as I said, it doesn't have to be much. Just a would go maybe for at least 3 mm, I'll do that on this side. I don't have to do anything on this side because I've received already it's already very close to the boy in this image, so I don't want to cut any more affair as before in the other video or find, it really helps to use my cutting mat to cut these images. Just line up my image with the lines on the cutting mat. Again, I've got my two dots are my two marks there. I'm going to add a bit extra noise or when I'm cutting a really don't have to use much pressure. Okay, Again, here and there. So if I know it's kinda like this, I really need to go about here. Then I can cut. And also, as I said in the other video, what we're showing you how to do the simpler version of the Polaroid. It does, it really, really helps to, to experiment and to, yeah, I've got enough experiment and maybe start with images that are not really precious to you. Just to get into, just to experiment and just to have a look and how it works and get used to get a feel for this technique. Because obviously you don't want to use your most precious images and then have to worry that you mess them up. Okay, I've got the backboard. I've got the friend. I'm now going to align them. And then using my pencil, just making a few marks on the blackboard just to give me an idea of where my image needs to go. When I stick it on. Again, I'll use a glue stick. Got some scrap paper. Or as I said, with the other furtive rod, yes, I want the back to be really sticky so it sticks really nicely on the backboard and doesn't come off. And it also looks like a proper. I'm Polaroid, so I'm using a glue stick for this because I do find that most images on sticky enough. Okay. Now, obviously I have to remember that i've, I need to have this overlap. I've actually still, still got the little dots I can see on my on the top of my image. So if I just line them up like that, I'll use my bone folder carefully because obviously I don't want my image to move, but I wanted to stick nicely to my backboard. If you look again slide, you can see if there are any air bubbles or if you feel that your tape doesn't doesn't really stick to the back and you can just go over it. Okay, fantastic. And all that's left to do is glue our frame onto back. Again. I'm going to use my glue stick. And then I just have to make sure that I cover the frame evenly with the glue. Or is it I'm trying my best not to get any glue kinda like on the inside of the frame. Because otherwise he would potentially go onto the image. I'll just try the best I can here. Because obviously, you know, apart from that, I want these two to stick together. Then it's just a case of aligning the backboard and the frames best as you can. While I'm aligning it, I'm not pressing too hard, so I get a chance to move it around if I have two and once I'm happy with how it's sitting, then I really kind of press down. Sometimes it's easier to go from the back. Because obviously the front side with a frame is a little bit more delicate. However, can use the bone folder and just gently press it down. You don't want to move it around. You just want to make sure that both sides sit nicely on top of each other and get a chance to dry. Then I'm going to put this under a heavy book because heavy books are my go-to whenever it comes to drying glue and paper or making sure that it's flat or it's sticking together. If you're interested in having a look of what else you could create or other ideas of how to use these Polaroids. I just stay tuned and have a look at the next video. 13. 6. Simple Photos: Here is another quick idea. I know we've talked about the fake Polaroids and this is in a way very similar to this idea by basically pretending that you're creating photographs. So as you can see, I've got two examples here. Where I have used a packing tape transfer and just glued it onto the back of some card stock. I also left a wide frame around it just to make it look a little bit more like your vintage style photographs, even though obviously these images aren't really vintage. Again, this is kind of an idea of how you could use a holiday snapshot or a photograph of your child, your niece or nephew, or your, your grandchild. And turn this photograph into a packing tape transfer. Turn that into a kind of photograph. So I have got this packing tape transfer that I'm going to use. It has a vintage feel to it. If you know me by now, I have a strong leaning towards everything that has a vintage vibe to it. But you can use all of these ideas without having to add a vintage vibe. That's just my special preference. I've got lots of card stock here. All of this has been coffee died. So what I thought, I'll do, I'll make a little background for this photograph using, wow, there's packing tape transport using a coffee dyed a piece of card stock. Can just show you, let me just do this. What we can do is if I just show you what the image would look like if I used just a white as the background. And then we've got those as almost looks like we've chosen an Instagram filter here. Just because these two have the back, have a white background, I thought it would be nice to just have a look at creating one with a more vintage background. First of all, what I'll have to do is I'll just even the image out because I want a proper rectangles that are quickly do that. I just make sure that I've got I've got even even size and just cut off the black off, straighten the sides. Then I'm going to cut background. So what I was straightening the edges of this transfer, I realized that it could very easily just use this off card. All of these are off cuts. And I thought that this size kind of looks really, really good and that would fit. So I cut a little bit more of either side. This is 8 cm wide. So I cut this to 7 cm wide because we need 5 mm on either side. Now, I just have to adjust the height. Our image is 9.5 cm. So if we add centimeter to that, that's 10.5. So I'll just quickly do this. Okay. So next, I'm just going to make a little mark so I know where my corners. Because in this case I wanted to it could either eyeball it. This case I'll make just little marks. That's 5 mm. I have to say sometimes I find it easier to just eyeball it rather than measure it. So that's the other thing you can do is just put your tape if it's sticky, put it on the wrong side, up, center it, and then just make little pencil marks in the corner. Then I'm going to quickly grab the glue stick and some scrap paper and just line it up with the marks you've made. I usually try to just kind of like not pressing too firmly on I'm on the back until I'm sure that's that I've got it where I want it. Burned folder. And again, if it's not 100% in the center, don't worry about it. It's not meant to be. Perfect. Go. I can tell this isn't entirely in the center, but I think I can live with that. If I wanted to. I can just cut a tiny, tiny, tiny slice off here. And along this side, um, I won't use, I will wet. I'm going to wait until this is all dry before I just removed carefully remove the little pencil marks that are still sticking out because I don't want to move the packing tape. Whoops. There we go. Got another little photograph. And that's just another quick and easy way of creating a little project with your packing tape transfer. 14. 7. Vintage Photos: In this video, we're going to have a look at our pretend vintage photographs. I am going to get started with these three. If you remember, this was the one that I creased. And I'm going to show you the image with a background because it's much easier to see. And I have to say, I really, really love this effect. The card stock that I'm using is coffee stained. Basically, what I do is I keep all my coffee grounds. And then when I need a solution to stain my papers, I just use or using all the collected coffee grounds, borrow them up in a special sauce pan. I just keep for this purpose. Then obviously wait for it to cool down and I've got a big brush. And then basically paint or color wash in a way, the backgrounds, but you could use inks or you can use watercolor paints to just give your card stock a color wash. But because I wanted to make these fake vintage photographs, like real photographs, I thought we would be nice to give them a kind of sepia look. Therefore, the coffee stained backgrounds, all of these are off cuts, so I'm trying to see if I can work with my off cuts. And just to quickly show you, I've got let's just put this one over there for now. This was the the couple riding. I thought there were donkeys, but now I can see they're probably oxygen. Anyway. I really like this one on a coffee stained page as well. This isn't as creased, but you can still see some details here. And then I've got a third one that I made for. It was a different project that was left over. These three girls dancing. And I really like this as well. So let's just try something because this one is darker. Let's just see if I might like this one to go on a darker one. I have to say I quite like this. Then. For this one you can see that this is a lighter coffee stains, a card stock. It has some patterns on it. And I quite liked to use these backgrounds for my fake vintage photographs as well. Because it gives kind of the picture in a way a more authentic feel. You can see that in this bit of the sky, we've got a lighter background. And here it goes darker as it gives it an idea as if it had aged. Where we're not, the whole photograph is just dark but it's a little bit. One part is lighter in one part is darker. So I think I would probably use this one for this little picture. Maybe you could just get started with this one. The process is just really simple and straightforward. Once you have chosen the background for your vintage image, you really just need to to cut it and then glue it onto the background. But we can just do that very quickly here. Also find, I do make sure that my blade is really nice and sharp when I'm cutting. Very delicate features. Because that means that the tape is really fragile. Doesn't get pulled up or just, um, if doesn't tear. Okay. Here we go. And just double-check. And yeah, I I really like the fact that it's lighter here and you can see a little bit darker there. So the glue stick. And scrap paper. One thing you could do if you wanted to have something like a little frame around your vintage photograph. If you remember that, um, some of the old photographs have a kind of like a white border around the actual image. You could make sure that when you are putting the tape onto your image, that you make it definitely make it overlap enough so that you've got a border all the way round. And then when you, um, cut your image to size and make sure that you leave a little border. And then you would glue it onto the background in a way that you would have the card stock looking through the clear border around your image. And this way you could even have a little border. And I really should have done it with this one. But there wasn't enough left. And then I just let the blue dry before I cut the card stock. In the meantime, you can have a quick look at this one. I have actually decided to cut this image round about here. I really wanted to just make it kind of a snapshot of this capital. Then also, because this image is quite big and I would maybe want to use this in another project as a kind of like a snapshot. So I wanted it to be a little bit smaller. So I'll probably cut it here and then about there. So I'll do that quickly. So here we go. So as you can see, he can definitely kind of even afterwards, decide on having just using a detail from your image transfer. So this is now a smaller image. And I really like this one. Then what I can do is use this part in maybe a collage or a kind of a mixed media project or even journaling card or something. So you can hold onto bits and pieces of your tape transfers that you could still use in other projects. Quickly cut this one. Here I've got my little, my little vintage photograph. As you can see, it's obviously because it's the glue, the card stock at the back. It starts to warm up a little bit. So all I'll do is put this under a heavy book, of course. And then, um, yeah, here we go. We've got a little vintage photograph. Now what I'm going to do is because this is a very simple and straightforward. Let's create a fake vintage photograph. I've got a few other tape transfers that I would like to show you an also kind of like other takes on how you can use a background if you don't want to make it look particularly look like a vintage photograph, but you would like to incorporate it into a different project or just use it differently. 15. 8. Mixed Media Image: In this video, we're going to look at creating a mixed media image using a one of the packing tape transfers. I've got two images here that I've taken out of the ballet book. They are both costume designs for a ballet. And I treated them as all the other packing tape transfers. I covered them with the tape. I've been using the white tape for these and then I just soaked them in water. If you're using a paper that has a glossy finish on them, like in this book. It will take a little bit longer for the water just soak through the papers that we will take a little bit longer until you're able to start peeling back your tape off or the paper ofs. So the, it gets to the image and sometimes I find it have to do it in various stages. So I'll get most of the paper off. And then I'm kind of like as much of the paper off as I can. I try and change the water in-between. Then I let the image dry. And occasionally, I hope you can see it. I can still see like little places where the paper is still stuck. Two parts of the tapes or what it can do then is just stick it back into the water, let it soak for a little bit and just get rid of the remaining bits off the paper. So I've done that with this one already, and this is the one that I'm going to use for this particular project. I'm going to use the other one, probably to create one of my slides. So I'll put this one to one side. I thought, I hope you can see this. I do. This image very much reminded me of. And also I really like Elisabetta, an anime. You might know, her book, or actually the film that is based on her book, The Enchanted April. But she's written a whole series of books and a lot of them are 0, deal with gardens and her love for gardens and gardening. I thought we would be a really nice idea of incorporating one of the quotes that I've got here. Printed it out. And I thought it would be nice to make it look as if it had been handwritten. And the summer seems as though it would dream on forever. So I'm going to use this and kind of like do a summer garden inspired a mixed media image. I've got some dried pressed flowers here. Let me just put this to one side. I also printed out some botanical illustration I might use. I forgot. Pages, coffee stand pages from a gardening. But all of the pages or coffee stain, which I feel would work really nicely with that vintage feel and also the color scheme of the original image I'm going to use. These patterns have been added using a wallpaper pattern roller and more coffee. This is another pattern role, and I've just used packing paper. I've got some plain coffee dyed papers. I've got a oily that I might use. I've just collected a few things that I thought I might use in this image. And the other thing I thought I might try and do was thinking of maybe framing the image. I could actually use a mount and also use that to see how the image is coming along and how if I could fit everything into that mountain. So I might do that, I might not do that. So that's also another option. I might just start off with using one sheet of paper as kind of a background. It can also sometimes just help to have a background of having a space in which you're going to work. Then next, I definitely want to use one of those patterns because that can black felt like her being in the garden. Oversee. I have to make sure that because it's a very delicate image, I want to make sure that I can still see her. So if I'm positioning it somewhere, I obviously I don't want her face to be obstructed by anything that will come through from the background, depending are you doing in, might add a really interesting effect. But in this case. I think I would quite like to have her face. I'm kind of just coming through so that concede really nicely. So I'll have to play around with this. The other thought I had was just using kind of just using one of the book pages in the background as well. So let's just play around like that. And I could have her kind of like halfway on on the book pages because I could I can see her quite well. And then she can be a coffin in the garden. And I really like that. I have to pay attention to this part because obviously, the way the drawing has been made, you can see her feet. So I would probably want to think that this is where my image would end. And I've only just murderous, they're talking about your film, Enchanted April. I've got I just got the word April here, so I think there's just absolutely perfect. So I'll definitely use this this page from the book. Then I could add some sheet music. And I don't really want to have a straight edge, so I might just tear this critical thinking she use it. You could just think, I didn't know birdsong things, so I'll have a look. I could just slide it. Kind of like, oh, this snare, I don't want to cover up the word a pro. I just really, what I'm doing is I'm playing around with all the elements that I have. I would like that. Then we can have a quick look. What it would look like with a mountain. I quite like it. I'm not entirely sure if that's what I'm going to do in the end. But it does look nice. It gives me an option. I can have a look what this looks nice like if I have this bit on top. And I might potentially prefer this. As you see, is a lot of playing around with the different elements that you've got here. Now I'm going to have a look at the quote that I'm going to use. I just cut this out. The reason for me printing it out is I'm sure I've mentioned it plenty of times and other videos that my handwriting is not entirely, it's not very neat. And so in certain circumstances, depending on the project, I prefer to not use my handwriting. So in this case, I just found a font that I really like in a few works with it. So I thought if I had this some way here, and then I might want to have something there. Actually feel that having a little frame in a way really helps to know what to focus on or to bring it together. I could use a bigger one, but that's the only size I've got at home. At the moment. I might have to bring this down a little. I have to see if all of that fits in. And I might decide that the frame would squash everything too much in. And then I would actually like a bigger one. So if we had a look at that, maybe here and then I would quite like to have something over there. So the next thing I could do if I think I've actually noticed that I think that would just be probably a little bit too much. It might just become too messy. In the end. Especially as I would really want to add those dried flowers. Let's try this in the corner. Let's just go for if we had potentially something like that. Um, oh, oh, have this overlapping here. Okay, so I'm quite happy with the way this looks like sometimes what I do if I'm not entirely sure if I like something or if I feel like I might want to add something or take something away. Yes. Because sometimes if you're not quite sure, if if you're happy with with your image, It's a good idea to just leave everything as it tastes. Go away, do something completely different, like do the dishes or do the laundry or go for a walk or whatever you need to do. And then just come back and then have a look. Then you very often either notice that, oh, now I know what I need to change or what is missing or what is too much. Or you will see that this absolutely perfect. And I just want to leave it the way it is. Also kind of thinking, I would like to have maybe three flowers on this side and two on there. It's like a camera like this balance. So I'll have a look if I can find another one of those dried flowers which I'm sure I have. Use this. And the other thing I'll do, definitely I'm going to take a photograph of the collage because obviously it's only been put together. I haven't glued anything. And if I like it the way it looks, I want to remember kind of like what it looks like because every take it apart and then try and put it back together. I might find it difficult to do it exactly the same way as I have done. So I don't want to lose this image, so I find it really good way of not worrying that you can put it together the way you had it before. It's just to take a quick photograph. So talking about going away and coming back to whatever creative project you are doing at the moment, I had exactly the same. I went back, I went away and came back and realized that I needed to change a few things. First of all, I thought I had just too many. I just had well, I just had too much happening and I needed to simplify it slightly. It's just because this figure is so delicate and I didn't want too much distracting from her. I quite like the idea that she is in a way almost hiding in her garden, but the same time, I want to be visible and they're not to be too much noise around her. Then I went away and had a look at all the dried flowers that I had. And I came across this. And I feel I actually prefer them to the other ones anyway because they are so long. I've still got the really long stem. It almost feels like, it feels like she's part of the flowers or can hide in her flowers. And I also felt that the colors blended in better with the rest of the color scheme. Yeah. So what I quite liked is I was looking at lines. So I was looking at continuing this line of having like an empty space down here. Now I feel I might just not worry about her not having feet there. I'll just I'll just use this as an image almost like a photograph that is in this. I won't worry about that. But I quite like the empty space down here. I like the fact that I can see the page number. And here I've got the words and the paragraphs. And I've got some kind of a similar, I would say, pattern here on the sheet music's, I wanted it to continue, whereas being slightly different, but still continuing the theme here so that it's not too distracting from the whole image. Right? Now, I can get started with all the gluing. I'm just going to use a glue stick. I'll be using craft paper is actually a thin sheet of craft paper. I was debating whether I could use one of my thicker bits of craft paper. I would probably definitely want to use something that is thicker than just ordinary printer paper. But just, just experiment and see how things go and you can always kind of glue everything onto, let's say card stock in the end. But we just need some sort of background so that we can glue everything. On there and also failed if any of that kind of looked through, it would work really well with the other items and the color scheme that I've got here, I'm trying to do now is I'll just slide it very carefully underneath so I don't disrupt too much of my composition. I have taken a photograph of this. Or is there something else that came to my mind that you can actually use your phone as a kind of frame. So if you were looking at how your composition looks like and you'll find that all of these pieces are distracting you and you can't really see what the actual image might look like. You could just grab your phone and use that as a frame and have a look on what it looks like. So that's another idea for you. Then something else to think about is the order in which you're going to glue your items onto the page where you have to see even, you could even make a list with the numbers if you find it difficult to memorize it, you can just have a look which ones at the bottom? So this one is e.g. the book page is right at the bottom of the whole composition. Then I've got the sheet music or the piece of sheet music is on the book page. But under this part, and just really be aware of where the individual pieces are, I'm going to have the flowers, probably most of them on top of the of the packing tape transfer. But I think I might like to have this one underneath, might do a bit of both, but that's something else that you might want to think about. And as I said, if you felt like you wanted to just write it down or write into numbers, then do that, just make a list of book page one, sheet music to patterned paper 30, whatever way that would help you to remember in what order you want to glue them on. Okay, then you might also want to just grab some scrap paper. Okay, with this one, I always want to line it up. So if this line with the end of the textblock, quite like the idea of how those could fit into each other. So I'm going to do is just codes for methionine there because this is going to be covered so that I know where I need to glue it on. Greg and you cut everything that sticks off the page as overlapping. I'm going to deal with that later. So I'm not going to worry about that now. Let's have a look. I find myself going back to the photograph that I've taken. It's just really, really helpful. Now, the packing tape is still quite sticky, so I don't think I need to add any glue to this. I can just stick it down. If yours isn't sticky enough. You can just use the glue stick to help. Then I've changed my mind again. I'm going to have all the flowers on top of the packing tape transfer. Right now. The flowers are going to be a little bit tricky. Because obviously they've only got like a really thin stem. And they are very delicate on top of that. Plus. It might be tricky to, you know, to have something, to get something to stick on top of the tape. Just position them first again to make sure that I know in the place where I want them to be. So when you're gluing down any dried flowers, you have to be really, really careful. They're very delicate. So I'm constantly worried that I'm going to decapitate them with my glue stick. But so far so good. If I was to frame it and just hide it behind glass, then that would also keep them in place. So we'll see. I know that idea could be to kind of sew them in place, use a needle and thread, and kind of just attach them as you would do with set a tape. But instead of solid tape, you're using a needle and thread and that could look quite nice as well. So I might look into doing that on top of having them glued on maybe in two places. So we'll have a look and see if that works, which would also obviously work quite nicely with the general gardening theme and thinking about convect garden or gardeners Twine. So that could be quite fun. Going to do. The other thing you can do is also use washi tape. That's what I thought first of adding some detail just with a washy. But I quite like the idea of the of the needle and thread. So I might do that. And we're just experiment. I don't know if that's going to work or not. But I always find that being creative and just creating, working on a project is also all about experimenting, trying new things. Not only thinking about the outcome, also the learning on the way. Okay? So what I'll do is probably cover this Ruth, maybe something like a sheet of acetate and then put it carefully under a heavy book to make sure that it all dries. But at the same time I don't want any of the glue to stick to paper. So I feel like if I used acetate, hopefully, that might work though. I'm really worried that I might damage any of my flowers. So what I might do is just wait for the glue to dry and then put everything under heavy book just to straighten the piece of paper. So everything has dried really, really nicely. I'm actually quite pleased how well the dried flowers are sticking to the background. As you can see, I have started with my idea of kind of sewing the flowers to the background. You can notice the thread and every lagging. Or if you're thinking about gardens and garden twine and everything, that makes sense, but at the same time it doesn't stand out too much and gives kind of another detail to it and some more texture to the whole image. So I'll just thought, I'll just show you how I did it is It's just an ordinary needle and thread. And because I quite like the little ends of the thread on the outsides of the top went in with a needle from the top. Basically, I just kind of feel where I want the needle to come back up. And I made sure that I left quite a bit of the thread behind because that makes it easier to tie a knot in the end. And then I'll just go through one more time. And then can turn it around so I can find the hole. Just pull it through. Time. I double knot. There we go. We've got this one finished. As you can see, I've added just a strip of a book page is the same book because I noticed it's in case I wanted the image to be a little bit taller. I had the craft paper as a background and it looked a little bit lost. So I just add it this just to show that it can be continuous process that even if you've had one idea, it's okay to change it while you're while you're creating it on, even at the end, to change something about it, I have to say I'm quite pleased with the outcome of this. And I just feel it's kind of like one really easy way of using a packing tape image transfer and use that as part of a collage or a mixed media art work. 16. 9.1. Oldstyle Slides: In this video, I'm going to show you how I create what I like to call slides. They very much remind me of the old slides near the square format. And also at the same time, a kind of what negatives might've looked like. Hope you can see the images. All of these images that I've used to create these slides came from the ballet book. All black and white images. And I felt those worked really well. For this one. This is definitely, I would say, a more advanced method of using the packing tape transfers. So you might want to work with the others first before you do this one, or just watch this a few times and just take it step-by-step. It's not really very difficult. But it might, well, I will definitely take a little bit longer than the other projects, but I really, really like the way they look. And I like the whole idea of creating these vintage inspired slides. So the image I'm going to use is the other costume design from the ballet book. I've just created. The mixed media. Summer inspired a collage in the previous videos. So I thought we might be quite nice to have a similar image and just do something completely different with it. So this is the one I'm going to use. But at the same time, a thought, I could use have a go and use something that is kind of like maybe slightly more colorful. All of them are others. Even the vintage slides are? Yes, because I like them to look vintage and to look a little bit yeah, like old negatives. So I thought it might be nice if you have something where the image is a little bit clearer. So I'm going to use this image which came from a book that also had a glossy pages. So when you look at it from the other side, you can still see kind of like a white layer on there. But this is as far as I will be able to get for this image without actually destroying parts of the image itself. But I felt this is a K because I don't have to look at the slide from both sides. Plus, I thought it might also be an idea to work with one of the color further to copy images. Um, so this is another kind of like a more faint image is actually, as you can see, it's myself. And it's a snapshots always still from a video that I made a while back. And I thought this would make a fun or an interesting image to use inside a slide. And then we've got another one here, which is part of a project that was an Instagram takeover, working on a prompt. And again, this is more fainter, but I thought it might be quite fun to have this as a slide. So I'll get all the materials and all the tools that I need to get started for this project. If we just have a quick look at one of the slides that I created, I have maybe a slightly better look at the actual image inside. First thing that had to do is basically strengthen the image itself. So instead of just leaving it as one layer of tape, well, I'm going to do first is add a second layer of tape on top of the front of the image. And basically this is just to make sure that it's not too floppy because in a way, thinking about the really old are the first. Slide is they were actually covered in, they were covered in glass. And it's also a lot easier to actually put them in between the frame because they're sandwiched in-between the frame. So that's the first thing I'm going to do. I'm going to find with the cutting mat, it's sort of helps, just helps to keep the image straight. I'm also going for a slight overlap here because we will need the image to be slightly bigger. So as you can see, I'm going to create a slight overlap. I'm going to show you in a minute why we're going to need, you will find that it can be quite tricky to add another layer without getting any air bubbles or that maybe it won't lie completely straight and flat onto your first layer. But I would just say, just don't worry too much about it. And just take this as part of the character of your slide that you're creating. What I can do, however, is use a bone folder and just try and make sure that the two layers nicely aligned and stick together. If you come across anything that is an air bubble, really all you need is a little needle, like a sewing needle, and then you just pop the air bubble carefully. And that does the trick. Right? And while it's nice and flat on your surface, you can start and measure. So you're first going to measure the actual image size. So this would be about 10 cm wide and about 14:14 centimeters high. So I'll just write that down. If we know, thinking about the image needing to be sandwiched between the two frames, it will just have a quick look at this image. So I've cutout one frame, then I'll put the image in between, and then the other frame goes on top. So obviously we need some part of the picture to be sticking between the two frames. And because I don't really want to lose anything off the actual image I am creating or I'm basically enlarging the original image. And that's why I did the overlap. Using the tape. I can take this off. Sometimes you might find that you even, you want to add another layer to it, kind of like a third layer on top. And I might actually do it, but this one, especially because this is a slightly bigger image than the others I've done so far. So now that I'm holding, I didn't even though I'm going to add two layers on the back, I almost feel like I want to have another one on the front just to make sure that it will stack. It will stay nice between the two frames and kind of state as flat as possible. Having added another layer, obviously, I get kind of like more folds and potentially more air bubbles. But for me, it kind of just looks like an old glass that has been cracked or is not quite perfect, but that is my personal preference. With these. You could use just the narrower solid tape to do this because I find it's easier to manipulate it and you get less many air bubbles and less many creases. So you could play with both of them and just see what it would look like if you're using one rather than the other. Okay, So the next I think I have to do is measure the frame or does actually decide and how big I want the frame to be or how wide I want the frame to be. So if I had a look, I feel that I might actually quite like this width or might go for something that is a little bit wider but not much. So if I just had a quick check, so this is two-and-a-half all the way round. If I had a look, if I did three. Yeah, I would be tempted to go 2-3. So what we can do, rather than experimenting with the card stock, we can just grab a piece of printer paper or some scrap paper. And then just make a quick, a quick frame and see if we like the wider frames. I'll try one that is as a width of 3 cm. Okay, so now how do I measure? How do I find out how big the frame needs to be? Okay, so looking at our test frame, we said that the picture is 10 cm wide and 15 cm high. We have to add, or in this case we're trying to add or thinking of adding 3 cm all the way round. So that would make the frame B or the slide. I'm ten plus 3.3. So that's 16 cm wide and then 14 plus three, plus three. So that would be 20. So that's what I did at first. I've got 16 here, 20 cm here. And then on the inside, I just created this little cut out. Basically I just need to measure 3 cm in and then cut this out. And this is our frame. We can have a quick look of what I thought this looks like. And I have to say, I feel that the size of the image and the size of the actual frame works really nicely together. I think this is a really nice width for this image, but this is a really good way of kind of not wasting any card stock, but just having a quick look on what a certain width would look like. And then I can go about, I'm going to cut too. Two frames to slide pods of the slides next for the image. Obviously, would it be really nice if I could have, I got two frames out of one sheet of card stock. But I still feel that can probably create a double frame narrative this part. So that's okay. When it comes to cutting out the part in the middle, I like to cut both parts of the frame at the same time because it doesn't matter how well you measure, they will always be a little bit different. So I figured if I'm cutting them at the same time, I can make sure that both frames are as similar as possible. I'm going to just get some just going to get some paper clips to make sure that they don't move while I'm measuring and cutting. And I can use a pencil line first rather than cutting it immediately, I'm going to measure the inside of the frame. I'm going 3 cm from the outer edge. I'm using my cutting mat to help me with the measurements. And I will say it helps me to keep to keep it all aligned. Okay. Okay. And then I can start cutting. And also I can use I can use these lines here as a guide to how far I need to cut side. Don't get any other advocates. I really like to take my time with this with the whole measuring and the cutting. 17. 9.2. Oldstyle Slides: Okay, so now we've got the frame cut. Next thing, takeoff the paperclips. Then take the frame that's on the bottom, put it out there on top of the other frame, and then open it up. You might want to watch this a few times because this way you make sure that you've got the frames in the end sitting on top of each other the way you cut them. It doesn't matter how precise the measure in cats, there will always be slight inconsistencies. So this really is the best way to make sure that you've got them stacked in the most fitting way possible because that's how you cut them. You want the pencil to be on the inside. The next thing I also do, I'll just write it as a t here to indicate this as the top. I'm also going to write a t here because then I know that this is the inside of my other frame and also the top of the other frame. And believe me, but just by doing this, this is going to save you so much time in the end when you're putting everything together. Okay. So I'll just put this one to one side. I'm going to use this as my top frame. Okay, So next I need to put, because now the next part is going to be sandwiching the image transfer in-between the two frames. So I've got my image transfer here. I'm just going to kind of just cut off some of the tape. The overlapping tape can be a bit tricky because it would just wants to stick to your scissors. Let's have a look. So I've got the sticky part towards me. Right? Yeah. This is looking good. Now I'm going to get my glue stick. And I'll just put some glue just on the inside of the frame. On at the moment, only on to the part where I'm going to stick the image so the part where the image is overlapping. Okay. Right. I'll, I'll try and have it in a as as straight as possible depending on your image, it will be it can be really easy if it's darker. With this one, it's quite light. Can be a bit tricky. I always find that it's just have a look because the the tape wants to stick to my fingers as well. So what I'll do then I need a little bit of extra help with some tape. It depends. Sometimes sometimes I find that the the tape I've been using is stickier at some times then others. It also depends on the image itself and the way it came off, I find you just have to see, right? I'm going to just cut off some short pieces of tape because I'm going to use them to help me put the image in place. Okay, that's looking good. Let's just do it like that. Okay. And then on the other side, oh, go down. I'll try and make sure I'll do my best to make sure that the images lying as flat as possible you can see it can be a little bit of a challenge. Sometimes it helps just move it around. I might even count a little bit more of the bottom. Just take your time with this. Okay. One more on this side. Okay, so we've now made sure that it is kind of it's secure in this space where you want it to be. I am now actually going to use the thinner tape because I find I can manipulate it easier than the white tape because now, as I said, I've got two layers of tapes of added another layer of tape to the friend. And now I'm going to add two layers of tape at the backside of the sticky part of the frame. At the same time, I'm using the tape to also attach the image to the inside of this frame. So I've made sure that I'm overlapping the tape. So it's kind of like half on the, uh, on the frame and half on the image. If you find that you're really struggling because your tape, your image is really sticky on the inside. What you can do is just add a layer of tape onto the back, the sticky part of your image before you put it into the frame. And that's also okay. Because then you can use the second layer of tape to attach it to the inside of the inside of the frame. I'm using the bone folder just to make sure that I've got this layer sticking nicely to the back of my transfer. You can also have a quick look before you attach the image onto the back of the frame to see if you like the way it looks. And yet I find this is okay so we can get started with gluing it in. Okay, Now I'm going to quickly add the second layer over to something else you could do to attach the. If you find that your glue stick doesn't really want to work, which can be quite tricky on because obviously it's plastic. And to get the plastic off the tape, just stick on the frame. You could use double-sided tape and just put it around the frame and then put the image on top. Maybe might want to just experiment with a few ways of attaching images to the back of frames. First, before you start putting in your favorite image transfer. Here we go. I know what I need to do. Now. Let's have another look to say, I really like this and I also like the a, I do like, I do really do like the effect that the tape has created by not sticking on 100 per cent. And also the little air bubbles in here. And I find it very, very much reminds me of, hi, I'm blown glass. Now. We see we've got top here, I've got top there. So I just need to turn it around. Now just debating whether to use double-sided tape or go with the glue stick. I might just go with a glue stick for this, but as I said, you might want to use double-sided tape to put the two frames together. I'm going to add blue to both sides of the frame. I'm trying not to go onto my image because obviously I don't want to have a glue on there. I could just wash it off but I'm just trying not to get any glue on there makes things easier. Make sure you cover the edges k. So you've got one done. Again, just double-checking. Yes, this is the inside. And then I just line up the corners. Again. It can be a little bit fiddly. Then I just first for just press really lightly to see if I've got all the corners are sitting on top of each other, so I've still got a chance to move it around a little bit. That seems to be okay. You will find that even if you've, you know, you've done it as carefully as you can, that sometimes the top and bottom frame won't be Andrew present. But we can deal with that. Can see that there's a slight overlap there and a little bit down here. But I can just cut that once it's all dried so I wouldn't do it while the glue is still drying. There we go. I have to say I'm quite pleased with the result. Stick this as always under a heavy book just to make sure that the glue dries nicely and that the two sides of the frame stick together. 18. 9.3. Oldstyle Slides Example 2: Our first slide is drawing under a stack of books that I have a quick look at, one that is colored. And also one way you could, you can see the image better than the big one that I've just done. I'll just quickly do this server. Just recap. I've got the pencil marks on here. I'm taking the one on the bottom out, put it on top, and open it up like a book. Here you can see more clearly where the where the image ends and the clear tapes dots. You can double-check by just turning around just to see if it fits nicely. And yes, it does matter as much easy to put on because the back doesn't really stick. You can see it's definitely possible to use the wide tape, but I do find it's slightly more difficult to maneuver it than the narrow seller tape. So yeah, nodes is completely up to you which one you're using. But yeah, try and try and do it with both and just find the way that you find it easiest to do. Or was it the same thing? If you see that you've created a little air bubble as before, just use a needle. This piece a little hole. And I'll let you could just get rid of the air bubble. Okay, and then I'll put this one under the stack of books as well. But as you can see, you can create all different kinds of slides with this. I really, really like this. I feel they're all kind of have a slightly vintage feel about them. One thing that you can definitely do is use family photographs for this. Just use a color photocopier. Or if you have a, a color laser printer, as I've mentioned before, and those could be used. And that will actually also be a really nice way of sending somebody a gift or sending a photograph and a completely different way and have it as a slide. 19. 9.4. Oldstyle Slides "Show & Tell": So first of all, obviously, the slide that I made in this class, the first one. I know it's a very delicate picture. So you might think, Why would I want to have a slide like this? But as I said before, I really like the way this looks and I like, kind of like the more vintage vibe that comes with it. That's my preferred way using these slides. Now, let's have a look at some of the others. Okay, So first, so first have a look at the other two samples that are made for this class. You can definitely see that it's possible to have different colored frames and how that gives a different vibe to the image. You can see that this is a more colorful image and one we can actually already see a lot more of what's going on. So I really do like this one. Then I've got this here where I used a, I think I've mentioned it before. It's a snapshot of video that I took. And even movies this again, it's a little bit fainter, but I still really like this one. But just to show you, this was a color photo copy of an image. So that gives you an idea of potentially what you could do with your own photographs and turn them into slides like this. Then if we were to enhance the idea of vintage images, I found a series of images in a book that Ethel would work really nicely as frames. In that case, I even wanted this slide frames to look old and slightly battered, so I just coffee stained the card stock beforehand. I've got a few more samples. I've got I've got this one. In this case, you can see that the tape is even more crinkled. That was an attempt of trying to flatten it more with an ion that wasn't too hot, but don't, don't try and do that. Because it was just it just made the whole tape trying crinkle up. But I thought I'll just use this image anyway, so learn from my mistakes. And here is hooks. Here is another one of those. And you can see they're all very what you might call kind of quiet, dark, surreal, maybe even steam punk, inspire. But that was the vibe I was going for these. And then I've got a few more from the ballet book. Again, I really like these. These are black and white images and with various, I find that they really lovely combination of it looking almost like a negative but not being negative. And I find that these work really well. Let's have a look at another couple of these. And also because these images are all, what are all the same size? In the book, I could create four slides that are the same size and I can then have them altogether on the wall, which brings me to a suggestion. You can use these clips, e.g. you just attach them at the top and then you can just hang them on the wall. And also depending on what color your wall is, all the background that you have. You can see that if you've got it behind something that is lighter, you can see them better. So you can play around with that as well and create even look slightly different ways of displaying your slides. Also, you could have them hanging up on your window or near light or in front of lights. Are there lots of things you can do here? Obviously, these are just some samples of how I'm using the slides. Basically, all I wanted to do is give you an idea of how you can of what else you can do with your packing tape transfers. I would really love to see your ideas on maybe using frames and maybe these frames GAVI ideas of trying something else with your packing tape transfers. 20. Class Project: Hello, Here we are again at the end of the class. I really hope that you enjoyed my packing tape transfer class and I really, really hope that it has inspired you to start your own packing tape transfers a bit, just creating some simple stickers or turning the sticker into a mixed media project. You might have a go at the furlough Royds, or even at the slides, you might have your own ideas and projects that he would like to try out. And please, if you do, try something that we haven't covered in the class, if you have any additional ideas, please do share them with us because we're here a creative community. And it is so nice to inspire each ELA as if we were in a real classroom. Then that brings us to the topic of your project. And I would really love to see your projects or you upload your projects. Eight will help other students to see what they can achieve in this class. Make sure that you tag me on social media. If, if you were to post photographs of your project on social media, it's difficult in bookshop girl on Instagram. Or to see if this is your first class, you might like to have a look at the other classes that I teach here on Skillshare. And also make sure to follow me here on Skillshare because that means that you will be notified every time I publish a new class. And as I said that this is the first in a whole series of image transfer classes. The next one is probably going to be image transfer using acrylic paint. But back to the project. Basically just choose any of the projects or come up with your own idea of how you would like to use a package shape tones first and just upload it to Skillshare. I'm going to create a quick video just to show you how you can very easily upload and create projects here on Skillshare in case you haven't done this before. I also really enjoy connecting with all of you because we can't meet in real life. I would like to make sure that, you know, they can always get in touch with me. The easiest would be either to leave a comment and one of the videos. And I'll get back to you as quickly as I can. Also, I will look at each and every project and give you some feedback on that. You can definitely always get in touch with me either via Instagram or Facebook or you can send me an email. And again, I'll try and get back to you as quickly as possible because I feel it's really important to be able to ask questions, share your ideas, and just try and get in touch and get a communication going. Then. Yeah, I'm really looking forward to seeing all your projects. Thanks again for taking this class. I've got a few bonus videos in the making, so keep tuned. They're going to be a few more videos that are going to be added to this class. Thank you very much, and I can't wait to see your project.