Texture in Single Crochet: Working into the Front and Back Loops | Connie Lee Lynch | Skillshare
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Texture in Single Crochet: Working into the Front and Back Loops

teacher avatar Connie Lee Lynch, Crochet Designer & Certified Instructor

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction

      0:55

    • 2.

      Project Overview

      1:16

    • 3.

      Selecting Yarn

      1:01

    • 4.

      Tools & Notions

      1:07

    • 5.

      Pattern Review

      4:31

    • 6.

      Getting Started

      3:30

    • 7.

      ...and Texture!

      7:11

    • 8.

      Finishing Up

      5:57

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About This Class

Learn how to single crochet into the front and back loops only to create texture in your crocheting with a simple but timeless scarf. 

Prerequisites:

Crochet Basics: From Skein to Scarf class recommended or some previous experience with basic crochet techniques like making a starting chain and working into it.

Class Objectives:

  • Review Single Crochet and Pattern Reading
  • Learn to identify and practice working into front and back loops of the single crochet stitch
  • Crochet a scarf!

Suggested Materials:

  • Patons Silk Bamboo or Sport/DK (3) Weight Yarn in Almond or color of choice, 2 skeins (204 yards)
  • H/5.0mm Crochet Hook or size that results in a fabric that YOU like the way looks and feels
  • Scissors
  • Yarn or Tapestry Needle(s)
  • Locking stitch markers (optional)

Resources include written patterns for both projects with photos and charts as well as links to Crochet Guild of America and Craft Yarn Council webpages for students needing further visual aid (i.e. tutorials for left-handed crocheters)

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Connie Lee Lynch

Crochet Designer & Certified Instructor

Teacher

Hi, y'all! My name is Connie and I'm a CYC Certified Crochet Instructor and published designer.

I started designing in 2009 and I've been teaching since 2013 from Georgia to Texas to Virginia - and now back to Texas again! 

Crochet is my passion, but I also enjoy making jewelry, painting, drawing, cross-stitching, scrapbooking, nail art, and even a little knitting. Reading, hiking, and simply spending time with my family are also favorite pastimes.

You can find most of my crochet patterns on Ravelry but I also have a selection of free patterns on my website. Subscribe to my YouTube Channel for short tutorials and you can often find me on Instagram or Facebook - I'd love to connect with you there, to... See full profile

Level: Beginner

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hi, I'm Connie, and I am a certified instructor through the craft on council. I have been teaching Kirsch a since 2013 and one of the reasons why I am passionate about crushing is because I get to experiment with really great texture like we're going to see in the scarf we learned today and this class. We're going to take a closer look at the anatomy of the single Christian a stitch which we learned in our first basic scores. But today we're going to learn how to work into three different locations within the loops of that stitch. And that's what gives you the texture that we see in the scarf. So we will briefly review pattern reading as well as charts, and then we will jump right in. 2. Project Overview: So today's project is this great scarf that I designed. You can work it and really any color that you want and still get that great stitch definition that you see either in the plane solid color or in this more colorful version that I'm wearing. What we're gonna focus on today is the anatomy of that single kirsch a stitch. We're gonna learn how to identify and work into not only both loops as we originally learned, but the front loop only and the back loop only of those two loops in your single Portia thes minor modifications. And where you place your hook, change the look in the feel of your kirsch a fabric and by combining them did you get this fun texture like we see on the scarf? The pattern itself is fairly simple. It's only a one row repeat. So once we get past that first row, I only have to count to three, which I know everybody's gonna love because none of my students like counting on I know, and that's okay, but it makes this pattern a great one to memorize quickly. And then you could Netflix and crush I 3. Selecting Yarn: the young have chosen for today's project is Patton's Silk Bamboo, and I really loved this yarn because it's got such a great sheen to it. And this pattern really benefits from a yorn that provides good stitch definition. This young also gives you a fabric that has a nice drape to it. So your scarf is gonna have a little bit of weight to it, and it's gonna flow really nicely. This pattern takes two skeins of this yarn to complete will give you, ah, scarf. That's around 70 inches long, depending on your attention. But it's got a good length for you to tie all kinds of fun knots that you know I love. Do note, however, that this is a hand wash only yarn with a silk delicate silk fibers in there. We really have to left on this, but it's such a luxurious feeling fabric who you done that it's totally worth it. 4. Tools & Notions: Let's talk about tools and notions. The materials list for this project is pretty sure to you. Of course, need re aren't which we just got you're talking about, and the hook the tube moments is going to depend on your attention. But I chose an eight hook or a five millimeter hook for this project because the yarn calls for a G hook or a four millimeter, and because of the texture in the scarf, I want to loosen up my attention just a little bit. So I went up a hook size. That's for me. Personally. You feel free to experiment with different hook sizes until you get a fabric that you like the look and feel of the Additionally. Besides your yard and hook, you're probably gonna want some scissors and a tapestry needle to sew in your ends when you get to that point, and I also recommend stitch markers thes air not necessary. But if you have trouble identifying your first and last stitches, then these air really handy tools toe have to just help keep you on track. 5. Pattern Review: Let's take a quick look at the pattern itself. So this you confined Ian. Your course materials. You can print it out, or you can put up on whatever you preferred Elektronik devices like I have here. So let's scroll down here. Talk a little bit about gauge There is. Well, it's a little bit of background on the pattern, but here's where the important stuff ISS. We've got our materials here, which we've already talked about. The yarn, how much you'll need, what color I used the hook that I used, as well as your extra notions. Here we have our abbreviations and chart symbols table. So these air all the abbreviations that you will see within the written pattern, as well as thesis Immobile's for the stitches that will see in the chart. So we've got single cliche as a little plus sign. Front loop only has little smiley face under the single Cochet, and back loop only has a little frowny face is under this and go Cochet. I guess we all prefer working in the front loop to the back loop on the next page. I've got pictures of the where your hook placement needs to be for working under both loops , the front of only and the back live only. So if you want a still shot a little bit closer look than what you can get in the video, there will be that in the pattern itself. Now here are instructions we started with the chain of 18 and then we single Chrissy and the second chain from the hook in each stitch across. This is our first row that we've already got complete. Their then road to is where things get interesting And that's what I have these pictures here illustrating. So for the first stitch, we're gonna single Christian and both loops of the first stitch. So that's what this is showing right here. And then the next part we're going to single cliche in the front loop only, or flow of the next three stitches. So here these pink stitches here are showing those 1st 3 stitches in the front loops only, and then single cliche in the back loop only, or blow of the next three stitches. So that's what the's three pink stitches are right here. So if you look at the instructions here, everything that's in parentheses gets done two times. So you single core shay in the front loop only three times back. Look, only three times that we repeat front loop only three times about back loop only three times. Then we're gonna single cliche in the front loop only of the next three stitches. So that's that right there. And then we end with one single crush, I under both loops in the final single Christian of the Row. And so you can see your your stitches come across here and you can't really see that texture popping out just yet, But you will soon. So that's the only road that we have to repeat were once you get memorizes going Easy, easy. Here is the chart to read a chart you work from right to left starting in the lower left hand corner and left, right, left or right We could try right to left on and then because we turn our Cochet fabric But we can't really turn the page of the chart. We were going to read it from left to right and then right to left and then left to right back and forth in through the rows and a color coded them here to help you kind of keep them, keep them sorted. So let's go through this real quick. We've got our chain of 18 here to start with, starting in the left corner, working cross and then the next row and gray here. That's our first row, where we single kirsch a in the second loop from the hook and each stitch across and then wrote to Here is in blue. We've changed one return it and we single cliche in both loops of the first stitch and then front loop only smiley face of the 1st 3 stitch or the next three stitches and then the back loop only of the next three stitches. Frowny face, front loop only back loop only, front loop only, and the ends, English and both loops of your final stitch. The next row, row to again. It's just going the other direction. Chain one turn single Christian. Both loops front, live only back loop only front loop only, hopefully across and so forth. Just do keep doing that until you get to the ends, and that's really oh, we have, Yeah, that's all of your father 6. Getting Started: Are you ready to get started? Let's do It's all right. So we've got a yarn in our hook and stitch marker. See, just in case. So we're going to start with a chain of 18. You start with our slip, not honor Hook there. We want to keep it just a little bit loose. So are starting Chain isn't too tight because it'll kind of cinch in the beginning of the chain. If for the beginning of the scarf. If the chain is smaller than the single Chris Shays are. So we want to keep just a little bit loose. Alright. One to fully five, six, seven, meet nine, 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18. There we go. That's double check here. Got 123456789 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18. Very good. All right. So we're gonna turn this over. I like to work into the back bumps of my starting chain, but feel free to work into whichever loops you most comfortable with. We're gonna skip this first chain here that they're turning chain. We're gonna work into our second chain from the hook with our single Christians were gonna insert or hook from front to back. You aren't over. Pull up a loop. You aren't over. Pull through two. That's her first single, Christian. And if you choose to your state's stitch markers, this is where you want Thio. Use them. We're gonna go ahead and toss this into our very first single question here. We're gonna put it under both loops there to make it easier to work into when we get back to this stitch at the Environics Travel. All right. And now we're gonna do is we're gonna single cachet in each chain across to the end of the road. And that will give us a total of 17 single Chris Shays. So front to back lips don't split your on, aren't over. Pull up a loop yarn over. Pull through to And don't be afraid to use a nail finger if you need a little bit of help getting that our incorporate with you. So I'll meet you at the end of the road, Right? Very last stitch. Got a nice Starkey starting chain and row. There must double check. Make sure that we've got the right number. Stitches here. We've got 123456789 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17. Perfect. Now you'll notice how this wants to curl on your a little bit. That's kind of the nature of the single kirsch. A stitch. It can also be because your attention is too tight. But I found with my regular attention my single Christians. Stitches just tend to curl. So if that bothers you, don't where you could block it out when you're done. 7. ...and Texture!: All right, so we're at the end of our first row, and we're ready to start our second row, which is where we're going to start seeing or texture Chain one. Turn it like page of the book from right to left. And now we're gonna skip this starting chain right here. That's returning chain, which is made, and we're gonna work into our very first single car show right here. So we're gonna go under both loops for this stitch. So there, those two loops of the first single pressure there. You're going on over political loot e r over. Pull through. And if you're using stitch markers here, you want to go ahead and throw that guy in there under the top two loops so that when we get to the end of our next drop, we know, right? Where are last ditch? Needs to get All right. Now it's time to do that. Texture. Right? So our 1st 3 stitches Well, our next three stitches are going to be in the front loops only. So if you turn this around without C in C, here are the two loops like we worked into forest first single Cochet so, working under two loops, you insert your hook under both loops right there. Actually, let's leave that in there. So here you can see this is your front loop, and this is your back loop. So what we're going to do is we're going to the next three stitches. We're gonna be working under the front loop only, and then the next three stitches, we will work under the back loop only. So to do that well, we're going to do from front to back the same way we normally do under that front loop. Only you aren't over. Pull up a loop, aren't over. Pull through to front. Live only you're on a goal of a loop yarn over. Put there too. And thats three. Right? So this next group we're gonna do in the back loop. So here is our payer of loops. This is the front loop. Said this is the backlit. So we're going to insert her hook from front to back. Same way under just the back loop. You aren't over. Pull up a loop. You aren't over. Pull through to and so you can see that stitch that you left on worked on the front side with the 1st 3 stitches. That one worked loop is on the backside. So now we're gonna continue to more stitches into the back, luv only to three. And now we're gonna go back to front loop, only stitches. So, looking at it from the front, your front loop is going to be the 1st 1 You see. It's the tallest loop of your single cliche there. So front loop to three now 31 the bag loop. There's our pair. We want to go in right here to three and three more in the front loop only fine. Teoh for three. And then our last ditch is going to be worked under the tuck. Two loops there took a stitch markers before we got to get Sorry. So there you have your first row or your second row, rather the first iteration of it. So we still have 17 stitches. If you want to count them, you could, and you're starting to see a little bit of that texture here popping through. But let's do a couple more rows and then you can see it a little better. So we're gonna chain one turn like page of a book, single Cochet under both loops of the first stitch. So there's two groups there on Hook, you know, pull blue. You want pulled her too. But this marker in there in your belt loops and now we're gonna repeat row to again. So the next three stitches goes under the front loops. So front to three. The next three stitches. Find that pair. There's the back loop to three, frankly, to three. Back to to the ready in the last group of front loops. And then we've got last ditch going under both loops. One more road will fast here. It's nice, Lynn. I have to just kept three. Don't even have to count out loud. And once you get the hang of this, he goes pretty quickly to three. And there's our last month right there. Okay, so let's take a quick look here. There, Lynsey. See that texture starting to pop through there a little bit. So here's her lips. Here's our back loop stitches, and then our front loops stitches air here, so if you look at your front live only stitches, you're leaving the back loop, in that case, unworkable. And that gives you a flatter fabric, and when you work the back loop only it leaves the front loop on worked, and it has a little bit more texture. Actually, it creates kind of a rib look if you turn it the other way. I've seen used for ribbing in grocery before, so you get some really fun texture by doing this and I have to do is repeat that second row over and over until you have your scarf as long as you want it. And like I said, you only have to count to three. So pop in a movie. Or just so Netflix and Kirsch a 8. Finishing Up: Okay, so we are running out of yarn here. This is our one skeins worth of scarf. So in order to join our new skein, you can use whatever your favorite joining method is. But I'm gonna show you how I like to do it. You can do this anywhere, even in the middle of a row. So what I'm going to do is wherever I decide that I am out of yarn, I want to leave enough here that I could so it in when I get to the end there. But what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna work my stitch to the very last step. So as a single question, the next thing I would do is your own over and pull through both these loops. But what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna drop that your and pick up the New York and complete stitch with the new yarn just right. You're earning over and pulling up the lip. And now we're gonna go on to a next stitch here, and that's gonna kind of security. So your stitches will be a little bit loose who see? I didn't leave enough tail there too, So win so I need to go back and do that again. But your stitches will be a little bit loose. But when you go to sew them in, you can just took them down a little bit and that will fix the problem. So let's take a look at this again, out of your Simon. Work my final stitch to the very last step and then drop my old your I'm gonna pick up my New York. I'm going to your no over and pull loop through to complete my last single core shape right there and then to keep it from pulling right through. I'm gonna go ahead and work my next stitch, and that will sort of secure it so it doesn't pull out. Pull loose. So again, your stitches will be a little bit loose there. But you can snug them up when you're ready to so in your ends. And then you just continue on crash a long just the way you work. So let me show you real quick how I would so in the hands. So here we're going to Smith is up just a little bit. So it's not to lose that. I want to put my hook and close to where this yarn comes out, you can try to recreate the, um, stitch where the Yoran goes if you want to. With something this small and dense. It's not as necessary, though, So I'm just going to insert, you know, right there close to working out. I'm actually gonna snag a little bit of Yorn here in Crete. A really tiny, not by snagging a little bit of yarn in the fabric just a little bit and then piercing the end that of selling in right there next to and pulling it through. And that's gonna create a teeny, tiny little not do. You won't even be able to see your feel if I saw it in carefully. So we're just gonna threat this back through this life and pop that third and it's got me. Can't even feel it. And then you can, so, in your ends, any which way you want to go? I would normally wait until I had a little bit more fabric worked up here to give me a little bit extra space. But it's okay, then we can just leave it any old direction we want and When we get ready to finish off, we're going to leave it one direction for have an inch to an inch, not too far. It's for that happen inch. Then we're going to do you don't pull it too tight, then we're going to snag that. Your can go right back over the way we came working the end back through itself. Basically, pull that. Sure, it's not too tight. Then we can sniff up right there and Walla, that end is, let's go and then you do something with the band as well as this one. Then your sport is all done. Now. I would recommend walking with the scarf because see, your ends kind of throw up a little bit there. But really, all this needs is a nice, damp block, so I would lay it out so that it's, you know, stretched out. I said straight the way you want it to lay and then just spritz it with some water. You could make it warm if you want, and either press it down or pin. It's, um so that it will lay flat, and then once it's completely dry, it should flatten those edges out nicely. and then you're ready to wear it and look fabulous in your luxurious silk and bamboo scarf . Thank you so much for joining me today. I hope you enjoy this project. And I'm looking forward to what you guys come up with season by.