Tapestry Crochet Mastery: Unleashing Your Creative Potential

1. A Creative Journey Begins: Imagine the endless possibilities as you combine Ws and Chads, weaving them together to create intercut patterns and captivating designs. Are you ready to embark on an exciting creative journey? Welcome to Tabstr Crochet Mastery, Unleashing your creative potential. In this class, you will learn the art of Tabstr Crochet, a fascinating technique that combine color work and intercut design. Whether you are a complete beginner or advanced creators, this class is designed to guide you step by step through the bruises, from the basics to the most important tapes and text. My name is Sara Shade. I'm a pharmacist who fell in love with Tabstwelye. That my first tabstricrcieject still unfinished now. Do you know why? Because it had a huge number of stitches. But as a projects like this, this and this are now in their places with their owners. So that I decided to introduce this step by step, easy class to enter the world of tabstry crochet. We will cover essential techniques like color changes, reading charts, and how to design your own chart. By the end of this class, you will have the skills and confidence to create stunning tabstry crochet pieces of your own. But it is not about learning the craft, it is about unlocking your creativity and expressing yourself through this unique form of crochet. Join our vibrant community and follow crochets where you can share your progress, Ask questions, and receive feedback on your project. I'll be there every step of the way to provide guidance, answer your questions. So be ready to dive into the colorful world of tapestry crochet. And now let's get started. 2. Project Starter: Essential Tips & Tools: Welcome viewers some important notes that I will explain during the tutorial. But I wanted to dedicate a separate video for them due to their significance. The first note, the starting chain is a chain that I will use two ends of the yarn for. You can make these ends in one color and you will have a chain in one color, or you can use two colors, as I did in the tutorial video, this is the crocheted case, and these are the starting chain stitches. By using two ends of the yarn, each end in a different color from the project colors, you can create a visually appealing chain. Of course, I will explain the specific technique in the upcoming lessons. Remember, practice is key. The more you practice changing colors and maintaining consistent tension, the more comfortable you will become with the process. Your speed and the skull will improve over time, leading to beautiful, multicolored crochet pieces. Second note I want to discuss here is about the blaze of the stitch we make, the single crochet in the back lobe, as you can see. Now the third node, there are two ends of the yarn when working crochet stitches, one end is the working yarn which you use to create the crush stitches. The other end is the carried yarn. To keep your work tidy, make sure to carry the yarn under your stitches, not over them, to ensure that the carried yarn is hidden and will not interfere with your pattern. After every five or six stitches, I tighten the carried N. If you notice here, I am working with two strengths of the same color. When I tighten the carried, I tighten each strength separately, holding the fabric between my thumb and index fingers before the five stitches. This is to avoid excessive tightening of the yarn compared to the rest of the row. If there are any increases from the carried on visible in the middle of the stitches, they will disappear when you tighten the yarn. Note that this tightening should be done after every five to six stitches and add the corners. It should be done after completing the corner, not too long after. To prevent the corner from shrinking the base. In this pattern, I started with the base and a few rows in the main color. Then a row in the second color. There in the following row, I made a stitch in the main color and stitch in the second color, resulting in this pattern. This is based on your choices and personal preferences. After finishing writing the word by the R, you can execute the same pattern, but in a mirrored way. That row with one stitch in the main color and one stitch in the second color, followed by a complete role in the second color. There are all personal preferences, and based on your plans for the project, remember that the most important thing is to enjoy the process. Crocheting is a relaxing and creative activity. Don't stress about mistakes. They are part of the learning process. Keep practicing and you will see improvement over time. Another important time is yarn tangling. If I randomly change the yarn every time, it results in annoying tangling which requires me to stop working and on tangles the yarn wasting time and energy. It is best to follow symbol and specific steps during work to avoid the problem of tangling. I will explain this during the work. Make sure to understand this point well. Another point is about the suitable yarn for such projects. It should be acrylic or pure cotton yarn without elasticity, which provides stability. For projects like bags, makeup bouches, and beencil cases, the yarn usually comes in 100 gram skins with approximately 350 meters of yarn, more or less letal. The recommended needle size is two millimeter and you work with two strengths of the yarn. Starting a chain should be made with 2.5 millimeter needle. Of course, you will need stitch markers and scissor and weaving needle. Final note, Some people make the back loop stitch by putting the yarn from underneath the needle, making a loop and completing the stitch. However, this method is not suitable for tabestry work because it will show the carried yarn on the front. The correct method is to blaze the needle from underneath the yarn, make a loop, and then complete the stitch. Now it is time for technique we will be using in the workshop. My advice to you is to practice this technique thoroughly before starting the project to ensure polished product. In the next video, we will dive into crucial aspects like presenting yarn, tingling, and mustering the back loop stitch. This will prepare you well for your crush journey at theater. 3. Designing Personalized Patterns: Welcome viewers. We will choose now a button or design the button we need, since in this project we will write a word or name. Of course, it is difficult to find the name fully prepared on a website like Ben Test. In this case, we will bring a graph paper composed of squares. Each square measuring 0.5 centimeter times 0.5 centimeter. If this paper isn't available to you, there are two solutions. Either you print it from the Internet, I will provide a copy in the class resources, or you can draw and lay out it yourself. Each square on the paper represents a stitch. I will choose the name Malak. Now I need to search for a font style that I like and look for the letters L and K. Before transferring the letters to the chart paper, I will count squares for each letters. Okay, Then I will check if this number suits the number of stitches required for the desired project. For example, if the number of stitches required is 60 and the total number of squares for the word is 30, It means that when placing the word in the center, it will appear slightly smaller. In this case, I will need to search for another pond where the letters consume a greater number of squares. Next, I will transfer the letters onto the graph paper, leaving two or three squares as a base between each letter. At this point, the bruises will be completed. As I will know how many stitches I needed and how many rows. You may wonder why I don't brand the letters and beat them next to each other. The reason is that by manually transferring the letters, you will gain experience in shaping the letter forms and creating curves and bends. This experience will be beneficial when designing other shapes or words that may not have ready made letters on interest. Especially when there are no ready made letters available. Such as in the case where I decided to write in English and found a wide range of letter styles or fonts. While I couldn't find satisfactory font styles when I decided to write in Arabic. As a result, I relied on my previous experience in transferring English letters to write the name. This is my goal, for you to learn things from scratch without relying on others. There is another aspect I would like to discuss, which is the height of the battern. The bettern consists of ten rows, which may not be sufficient to create an appropriate height. Therefore, I will add a few rows above and below the desired bettern. Everything needs to be determined before starting to work calmly and efficiently. I have decided to blaze the word in the middle. I will create five rows before and five rows after the word. Would you like to blaze a pattern in this area? These are all available options, but it depends on your personal preferences. Now let's name the colors there is the primary color or the main color. I will name the second color as the secondary color. You can create more complex and intercut patterns, but at the beginning of the journey, you need an easier path to reach your goal and stay motivated to do more. 4. Unleashed: Smart Starting Chain Technique: Welcome viewers. Firstly, I will use a slightly larger needle. The needle I will be using for the project is two millimeter. In the beginning, I will start with the needle size of 2.5 millimeter. Red is the main color and white is the second color. The starting point will be with the second color. I will make a and adjust the tension of the N. Then I will bring in the main color and hold its end together with the end of the second color, the yarn over of the stitch will be made with the main color. I will lift the yarn from left to right over the needle while holding the slap, not with my middle finger and some to secure the ends of both colors. After lifting the yarn, I will position the needle under the second yarn and bula bloop to create a two colored chain stitch. The focus here is not on the colors, but on the durability and the strength of the chain. That's why we crochet the chain. I will repeat these buses again for you. The main yarn goes from left to right with the needle positioned under the second yarn bulb. To create a chain stitch, be careful not to tighten the main color yarn too much, as it will result in a curved and tight chain stitch that we don't want. Of course, for the last stitch, we will reverse the color. Now we will start working on the first row of the base, which starts with increases. I will not make three stitches together in the last stitch of the chin, as it will create a hole. To address that, we will make the three stitches on the two strands of the second color belies the needle under both yarns and ball the main color yarn to complete the increased stitch. Oops, I made a mistake here, it became a slip stitch. In this case, I have three extra stitches. Place a marker in the first stitch where we will make the increases. In the second round of the piece, I will make the single crochet stitches along this side of the chain. I will crochet on the back loop of the color different from the chain color, which means the chain is in off white yarn. And I will insert the needle into the red color yarn. Here the first stitch has a visible lobe of of white. That's correct because we reverse the colors on the lost stitch of the chain. Don't forget to take the carried yarn with you. It is located between the working yarn and the work itself. Then for the second stitch, insert the needle into the lobe of the main color. Here I have reached the end of the chain. When transitioning to the other side of the chain, I will switch to the regular needle size. For the project, we were supposed to make three stitches together, just like we did on the other side. But remember, the first stitch in the chain has only the second on chain stitch, only because we didn't secure the main color on yet, it is loose. Now in this case, we will make four stitches together on two strands of the second color on to achieve the correct number of stitches. The first stitch on the other side is hidden between strengths of yarn. Don't lose it and look for it. Fortunately, it is a different color. Don't forget to ensure you are carrying the second yarn at all times. Try this method as it gives a beautiful look to the base. If you find it difficult to work in the back loop, you can use the alternative method. Here we make the starting or the slip with the main color yarn over is made with the second color. We repeat what we did before, except when we work on the edges of the chain, we enter the back loop of the chain itself, along with the back loop of the second color yarn. And thus we finish this side. We make the increase of three stitches together and add a force stitch. Take the car yarn with you and remember to always ensure you are carrying this yarn. Set aside these tails and continue to the other side. Here you will insert the needle under the other back loop of the chin. Under the back loop of the chin. But don't take the back loop of the second yarn. Only the back loop of the chin is enough. Look behind the work and tighten the carried yarn, but do it gradually, one strength at a time. At the same time, the right hand thumb band, end finger, holds the work firmly to prevent it from shrinking while tightening the N. Here we have completed the first row of the base, which includes three increases on each side. We started with a certain number of chains when making the double chain. After the first row, we add 60 stitches to this count. Now remove the marker and make an increase in the first stitch. But from here we will work in the back loop for the rest of the project. Continue without increase along this side until you reach the marker. Remove the marker and repeat increase in the next three stitches. 123456. After that, flip the work and tighten the carried yarn. Repeat the tightening bruises every five or six stitches to ensure a neat finish. But do you know why I made this type of a chain instead of regular chain? It is to avoid holes or wide gaps. Continue working on the bees as blend and wait for me in the lesson on changing learn colors. See you in the next lesson. 5. Color-Changing Mastery: Seamless Transitions: Welcome viewers. Let's see how to change the color. If the next stitch in the button is in a different color, I will not finish the stitch with the main color. Instead, the final step of the stitch will be with the new color like this. To make the stitch, we c it normally taking the main color or the carriage on along under the work. Here, I will change the yarn color back to the main color. The steps to change the color start from the previous stitch where you finish it with the new color. Make sure to leave the yarn in the direction of its skin. I left the second yarn in the front because its yarn skin is here in the front. I will take the yarn under the work and crochet the stitch normally. Here I will check the button and find that the net stitch is in the second color. I believe you have memorized the steps. Then I will start crocheting the required number of stitches as specified in the button. The net stitch in the same color will be finished with the same color. The next one is in the main color. Insert the needle into the back loop. Yarn over and bolaa loop here. I will switch the color. I will leave the yarn here in this direction because its yarn skin is here. I will make a loop and finish the stitch in this way. As shown in the button, there is a stitch in the second color, then a stitch in the main color, followed by three stitches in the second color, then three stitches in the main color, 12. For the third stitch, I will not finish it with the same color, but I will start the colors as I did before. Three Here I switch back to the main color and continue with the better. Always remember to check the buttern and the blend. Your color changes one stitch ahead. Heavy crusting. It is natural for the work to curve during crushing because you have stopped increasing. On the other hand, this curving is necessary as it provides the desired shaping for the project. If I always take the easiest way, which is blessing the forward each time, it will result in tangled arness. I will demonstrate this in front of you to emphasize the importance of blasing the yarn in the direction of its yarn skin Each time here I will crust a stitch in the main color and another in the second color to exhibit the demonstration of yarn entanglement. Placing the yarn forward each time may seem more comfortable for the crusetor, but it is not the correct method because it leads to tangling. As mentioned before, it is important to practice this technique to become proficient in changing colors. The stitches appear to be correct but there is tangled because I brought both the main and second colors forward each time without blessing them in their correct positions. This node is very important for organizing your work and future projects, especially when working with four or five different colors. Imagine the amount of tangling that can occur. It's messy. This node will save your energy and the briefing tangling completely. This Swatch is important for practice. I will provide you with a very simple pattern to practice changing colors. Once you understand the technique, you will muster it easily. It is simple but requires concentration in the beginning. Now get ready with me for the upcoming video. See you later. 6. Expert Journey: Guidance for Quality: Welcome viewers. There are two ways to work from the pattern. Either you crochet by following the chart in front of you or by reading the written instructions. Alternatively, if you would like to translate a charted pattern into a written buttern, the method, let's assume this is the bettern to be translated into a written pattern. The start is from right to left, number rows from bottom to top row number one is the first row with the first stitch in the second color. In this pattern, there are two white squares representing the main color in the project, which I will denote with the letter for the main color. Grab a new clean paper to write here I moved two main color squares, so I will write two M on the paper. After that, there is a square in the second color, so I will write one P, where P represents the color pink. Then the stitch in the main color will be one followed by four, then 113.1 B. After finishing writing the first row, proceed to write the remaining rods in the same manner. I advise you to write the translation vertically underneath each other rather than on the same line to avoid any mistakes when looking at the samples. Another step is to cross out each crochet symbol from the paper as you complete. All of this is to ensure accuracy and prevent any errors while working. As mis blessing, even a single touch can disrupt the intended batter in this button in the first row, we have 13 stitches in the main color followed by two stitches in the blue color, which I will denote with the letter B. I will repeat these steps with any word, any language, or any charted design to start changing in this button, you will begin with the stitch right before the desired color change. In this case, assuming the red dots represent stitches in the second color and the remaining squares represent stitches in the main color, we can see that the word to be written in the second color is centered within. Before it there are stitches in the main color, and after it there are stitches in the main color as well, we crochet in the direction from right to left to indicate the beginning of the word pattern. Place a marker on the stitch before it. Additionally, place a marker on the stitch numbered one. We will go through the explanation with detailed instructions shortly. Now let's examine the marker placement, assuming the verbal shape represents the circumference. There is a corner on the right and a corner on the left. At the midpoint of the corner itself, the front side of the bag begin and end at the midpoint of the opposite corner. At this corner, the back side of the bag starts the stitch at the midpoint of the corner is the stitch number one as indicated in the previous chart. I hope this explanation is clear and understandable. Since the word pattern is located in the middle of the front side, we need to crochet some stitches to reach the word. Here, we will place a marker on the previous stitch before the first stitch of the word in this pattern. We place the marker here. In this buttern. It is true that the first stitch in the second color comes after 13 stitches, but it is not the first stitch in the word buttern. However, here is where the marker is placed. At this point, I will calculate the stitches and translate into symbols to minimize errors. And define the button area precisely. You can translate it into symbols as well. And placing the marker alerts you that the color change area has alright reminding you to refer back to your symbols to begin the color change process. If you have a word, name or design on the front side and another design on the back side, it is important to differentiate each design by using a different color band when writing their symbol. Also write the name of the side above each group of symbols. Organize your word in this way helps prevent mistakes and ensures clarity in the batter. When working on the back loops of the stitch, it is natural for the front loop to protrude representing. Therefore, it is easy to follow the rows when converting the pattern into symbols. It is advisable to place a dash or even numbering on each square when working on the squared. This helps maintain accuracy in the work. Having a numbered square gives you confidence that you have attended to it, and any square without a marking indicates that it has not been addressed yet. I hope these guidelines assess you in your work and contribute to the precision and efficacy of your pattern convert. Now that we have discussed the process of converting patterns into written symbols and the importance of organization, we will move on to the practical application. In the Nexest video, we will actually begin the process of crocheting a piece with multiplical change. We will discuss in detail how to handle these changes and how to maintain the correct tension with the. Gather your supplies and get ready for the next step. Goodbye. 7. "Practical Mastery: Techniques Applied": Welcome, viewers. This video is a quick review of what has been previously explained, but in a practical way. Here, after creating this special chain in a contrasting color to the base color, I proceeded to create a base consisting of two of increases. Only I want to remind you that you can enorse the base and create more rows of increases. Please refer back to the video on creating the base. I then work at several rows without increases until I reach the starting row of the button. Remember how we designed the button using a chart. The first row consisted entirely of the second color, while the next row included stitches in the main color, the second. Alternatively, please note that the rows are connected. We don't close them with a slab stitch at the end of each row. Instead, we place markers to indicate the start of each row. Every time in the second row of the pattern, I made a stitch in the main color and stitch in the second color, which gives a visually bleeding pattern. However, its main function is to train you in changing colors. After this row, I worked two more rows in the main color to start drawing the desired pattern, whether it is a word, letter, or a shape. This is the stage of transferring the pattern onto the Aber, which was explained in detail in a previous video. You can highlight or use a washy tape to highlight the working grow if you prefer working directly from the button. This method is suitable for symbol patterns. However, you have a buttern with multiple colors. I have translated it into samples as explained in a previous video. Let me provide you with an example of how to position your pattern in the center. Let's assume that this site consists of 21 stitches and the width of the desired pattern here is seven stitches. Referring to the widest row of the pattern, which is the horizontal row with the maximum number of stitches. Therefore, the working area will be within these seven stitches in the center. This means that I will work seven stitches in the main color. The next seven stitches for the pattern, and the 47 stitches will be in the main color. Now let's see how we work. First, I will identify the stitch at the right corner and the stitch at the left corner, which are exactly the metal stitches. Place a marker on them and do the same on the other side. I rely on visually identifying the metal stitch and it is easy to determine. Then I will work the stitches from the first marker to the second marker, which I will count the stitches from the first marker to the second marker, which is 1234, up to nine stitches. There are a total of 29 stitches in this section. When I subtract seven stitches, which represent the widest of the heart pattern, the width of the heart pattern, I will have 22 stitches left. This means that I will work 11 stitches before the heart pattern in the main color and 11 stitches after it. Even if you end up with an odd number one stitch, will not make much difference in the overall final appearance of this section. After working the 11 stitches, I will place a marker on stitch number 11, which is the last stitch before the start of the heart. But here I will remove this marker from here. I only needed it to determine the button placement. However, the most important marker in the S is the starting marker of the batter, which is located at the last stitch in the first third of the other. I also identify the first stitch of the third third place a marker on it. I will not remove these markers. They will serve as a guide while working the stitches between them, which are seven stitches in total representing the desired batter. The first stitch after the marker is the first stitch of the heart batter. As indicated in the diagram. The marker on the diagram is on this stitch and also on this side here, you can attach a stitch marker or a safety pen at each previous row to keep track of the rows or translate the pattern into symbols. Now, I will bring two pens, one of them with a color matching the color of one of the two yarns, and I will translate the pattern using this method. The work is done in this direction, from right to left, until I reach the marker. After the marker, I will continue working the stitches in the main color, and I will check each square to distinguish it as I proceed. Here, there are three stitches in the main color. I will write three with regular bend color. Then there is one stitch in the second yarn color. I have brought a bend in the same color at the second yarn. So there is no need to write samples here. I will rely on the bend colors or you can rely on the samples as explained in the previous lesson. This method reduces the effort during work and minimize mistakes completely making the process smooth, comfortable, and enjoyable. After completing each section or group of stitches in row, you can cross them off on the paper. Here I will review the color change, the color changes. I remove the marker, work the stitch, and then reapply the marker. This stitch will be in big, the neck stitch will be in red. No, this is incorrect. Instead, I don't complete the big stitch all the way, but leave the lost stitch and finish the stitch with the red color. Insert the needle into the next stitch and pull the yarn. But don't close the stitch with the red color. Close it with the beige color. Continue with the next stitch in beige color, but don't finish it with beige color. Finish it with red color. This way you will have a row consisting of beige stitch and red stitch. Now let's move on to the crochet heart to crochet heart pattern. The first row consists of three stitches in the main color. The fourth stitch will be different in color, meaning I will not finish the third stitch with the main color, but with the second color. Here I position the main color at the back because its skin is in the back. I hold the N along with the base yarn while working. Close it with the base color. Then I bring the red yarn to the front because it's because that's the direction of its skin. I work three stitches in the base color for each temple or number that I work on. Here I mark it To keep track of my progress and avoid any confusion. I will continue this pattern until I reach the next set of the next row. Then I will show you how to work according to the pattern. Now I have reached the stitch where the marker is always. Remember that the stitch with the marker is the last stitch before our pattern. I will croce it and then put the marker back. I am currently inside my pattern, it reminds me that there are two stitches in the main color. Don't forget to tighten the yarn if refuse stitches to ensure clean and neat work, I work the first stitch and the second stitch, but I don't close the second one with the base color. I close it with red color. Then I work three stitches in red color. Will not finish last one with red car. I will finish it with a career and so on. Now after this training, you can start your project and I will wait for your questions and I will be happy to receive your applications in the end. Always remember that patients and practice are the keys to learning any new skills. Don't rush the results and enjoy the entire process. I'm egually looking forward to seeing the wonderful works that you will create. After this application, you can start your project. 8. Elegant Final Row: Creative Touches: Welcome viewers. After completing the pattern and reaching the desired length, there is one final row to close the piece. You have a couple of options for furnishing. This case you can use crochet stitch to close it. You can use decorative stitch like the reverse there, or bot stitch. Additionally, you can choose to furnish the work with either the main color or the second color. These choices depend on your personal preferences. Now I will demonstrate the reverse single crochet stitch. Start by turning a chain. This time we will work in the opposite direction from left to right. It may feel a bit unusual at first, but continue to see the decorative left, the stitch before the chain. And insert the hook into the preface stitch from front to back. Then turn over and pulpo to match the height of the single coches yarn over again and complete the reverse single crochet stitch. This is how it looks. Now let me demonstrate the Bk stitch, which will add a delicate, especially if done in the second color. Here I will work a stitch in the main color and close it with the second color. Then I will chain three and join them with a slip stitch in the two threads that form the base of the chain. If you notice, I carried the main color yarn along with me while working. The next stitch can be done in the second color and you can close it with the main color crochet, three or five stitches, depending on the distance you prefer between each put stitch. Repeat the Bicott stitch at equal intervals, Alternating between the second color for the bicute and the main color for the distance. You have the freedom to choose from these options. Here is an important note. When working on the corner, it may feel a bit uncomfortable. Simply flatten the piece to make it easier to work with. Do what helps your hand feel comfortable? As I mentioned from the beginning of these lessons, you have the freedom to design everything your stuff. Another way to create a decorative stitch is by inserting the hook into the next stitch, lifting the yarn upwards, and then rotating the hook 360 degrees from left to right. In this case, the stitch should be long after that you can finish the stitch as usual and leave the yarn in the second color. You don't need to carry it along while working because you will not need it Again, I will proceed with the reversing crochet stitch to finish the role. And then I will show you how I will close the lost stitch here. After reaching the lost stitch, I will cut the yarn and also cut the second color yarn, leaving a distance of 15 to 20 centimeters. To clean up any excess thread, thread the yarn through a tabestry needle and insert it into the first. You work it from front to back so that the red tail is inside the case. Here you can we the red tail between the stitches to hide it, as you would normally do in any brochure. If the stitches are tied, you can use the crochet hook itself. Just insert it two rows below and the cut off the excess thread. Now you can prepare with me for lining the case and attaching the zipper. Or you can choose to leave it without lining as you prefer. Now it is time to put your new found crush skills into action. Take what you have learned and start working on your own unique projects. Remember to have fun and impress your creativity. I can't wait to see the beautiful things you will create. If you have any questions or need assistance, don't hesitate to reach out heavy Cr setting and enjoy journey. 9. Perfect Finish: Lining & Zipper Assembly: Welcome viewers. To make the lining of the bag, prepare a piece of fabric in the color and pattern of your choice. It may be cotton or satin. You will need what's equal to the width of the case plus an additional five centimeter for side seams. The length of the fabric should be twice the length of the case. An extra five centimeter to fold the lining. In this manner, you can align the edges and trim any excess fabric that deviates from the edge. If you feel there is a significant excess, you can remove it, leaving just a small allowance for sewing. I am now sewing along the back of the fabric. If you have a sewing machine, you can use it for stitching. Or if not, sewing by hand is easy and doesn't take much time. Once the sites are sewn, you can insert the lining into the case for this end, secure it in place by attaching it to the zipper, as we will see shortly. Now let's move on to installing the bender in place. Making sure to sew it below the decorative. The most important step is to secure the zeb with bends properly. Before sewing it, take your time to adjust and secure the zeber in the right position before sewing. After sewing the zeber, we will install the lining in this way to hide the zipper's stitching, I will use a suitable white thread that matches the color of the zipper. Here, the thread color will not make much of a difference since it will not be visible from the back or the inside of the case as the lining will cover it up. Now after installing the zeber, we will proceed to install the lining by inserting it inside the case and securing it with stitching on the zeber. This end can either be folded and stitched prior to an installation or folded during its attachment to the zeber. In one step, which is what I did, the most important step is to secure the corners. Meaning attaching the lining corners with the case corners. Stitching the side of the lining at the case corner. If you are unable to secure it in this position, flip the case inside out and the stitching will be easier when it is flipped. Next, I will fold this inside between the lining and the case and secure it to the zeber. But make sure to stay away slightly from the zipper teeth. Stitch it using hidden touch, and I will explain it to you now. After securing the base with a burn in a vertical position, return the case to its original position to ensure that the lining, when attached, is properly and correctly secured. At this stage, spending more time adjusting the S, zeber and lining is much better than discovering any errors after in installation and having to redo the work. If the lining circumference is slightly larger than the circumference, you can make a small pleat and stitch it, which will not be notable. You can create multiple blades at spaced intervals. Come with me and I will explain the Heiden stitch for securing the lining. The Heiden stitch means that the thread will not be visible on the outer surface of the case, allowing you to use any thread color according to your preference. It is an explanation of the head. Insert the needle into the zeber horizontally and tighten the stread. Then insert the needle into the lining, folding the fabric at the top parallel to the zeper, also in a horizontal direction. Repeat the Bss alternately horizontally in the zeber and horizontally in the upper part of the lining parallel to the zeper. By following this method, you will so the zeber in hidden manner and the stitching will be invisible from the outside. After completing this teaching for the entire project, you can be assured that the lining has been securely and professionally attached with the lining and zipper successfully attached. Your crochet case is now complete. You have done a fantastic job. I hope you are proud of your creation. Remember the skills you have learned in this course can be applied to many other projects. Keep practicing and exploring new patterns and designs have be crocheting. 10. Gratitude and Showcasing Inspiring Projects: And with that, we come to the joyful end with our grand adventure together. Congratulations, you have learned so much and now it's time to put your knowledge into action. Perfect, learn from mistakes, and keep growing Your potential is limitless and I believe in your ability to make the best broch. Thank you for being part of this learning journey. I came to it to see how you apply, what you have learned and achieve. Great thing, wishing you success as you put your knowledge into practice. Remember, this is only the beginning of our shared exploration. I encourage you to continue your journey until we meet again in the second level to explore further and keep pushing the boundaries of your knowledge and skills. And now, good boy.