Stained Glass Card Class

1. Stained Glass Card Class Introduction: Welcome to the stained glass cars costs. I absolutely love cards that have a little bit of a unique feature to them in these cars that were going to create today, we're gonna do a stained glass feature. So there's gonna be an opening in the front of the card that is see-through a little bit transparent. Let's go see what we're going to go cover in this class. In this class we're going to be creating five different cards. We're going to be creating one with a dye that is just basically a silhouette die. And I'm going to show you how to create a stain glass, look out of that. Then I'm going to show you how to do it with a dye cut that has an outline. Then you can enhance your die cut with some embossing powder. I'm also going to show you how to do 1 second. Let's grab this here. A frosted window so you can see that it's got a stained glass window there, but it's frosted. And that is also with a die cut that has an outline. So we're going to be using some embossing powder on there to enhance that die cut. And then we're going to twist it. And I'm going to show you how to do some stained glass windows with some stamps and dies. And we're going to emboss it, emboss on special acetate to create an opening there. And then if you don't have dice and stamps that match, I'm just going to show you how you can also do it with just a plain, simple shape on the front of your cart and create an opening right there. So we're going to create five cards in this class. This class comes with a supply list that shows you everything that you need for each one of the cards. I also have a sample or a picture of each of the samples in there so that you can see the cards with this applies beside it. Those supplies are linked to where you can purchase them if you choose. Now you can definitely change out the dye cut shapes as well as the stamps and dies for these cards. But you're definitely going to need to have a die cutting machine as well as the stamp positioner for certain parts of this class. Now let's go create some stained glass cards. 2. Flower Card: Die Cut Prep: Alright, so this is the very first card that we're going to create today. So the very first thing we need to do is die cut this flower out of three sheets, three-quarters sheets of card stock plus the card base. So I already have those pieces ready here. So here's my card base. And then I've got three quarter sheets of card stock. Now, this flower die happens to be a bit of a simpler die. When you die cut it, it will actually cut through two sheets of card stock. Sometimes when you do this, it will only cut through one sheet of cards document. We'll just put an impression on the next one, which is what's going to happen with the next card, and I'll tell you what to do with that. So I have some dye tape here, and this is the same die tape that I used to do all my samples. So it's very well used. You can use the same piece of tape over and over and over again. Make sure that your pieces of paper are all lined up with each other because we're trying to get this die cut in exactly the same spot for every single a piece of paper or a piece of card stock. So for this, I run it one way and then run it back just so it has pressure size. This one here I'm going to take off in order already took the die out of or die cut out of that first layer. This one here, I can just push the die cut out. It does die cut through that. These actual flower dicots we're not going to use in this class. So you can put them aside for a future project. And because there we go, because it die cuts all the way through, I can leave this dye on this piece of card stock and then just line up my next piece of card stock with it. Put it in the same way. Now this ends up saving time because you don't have to take that die off the first piece of paper, you can just line it up with NXP picked piece of paper and put it through. There we go. So it just came right out of that one. The **** cut actually went into that die rather than fight with it and try to take it out because it's not really necessary at that point. I'm going to line it up with my card base. And for this, I want to take a couple of pieces of tape and I want to tape them in place because I don't want this to shift at all. The other ones. I wasn't too worried about it because those pieces of paper were the same size and lead rate on top of each other, this one because there's a tail off of it. I don't want a chance that it's going to shift. So here we go. I'm going to take the piece of tape off. When you first use your tape is going to stick really, really, really, really well, because the pressure of that machine running it through really makes it bond with the paper. So you want to be careful when you're taking it off. For these three layers on the top of the card. One of them is gonna be the front, so one needs to be perfect. The other two, because this one here actually happened to tear even though these pieces of tape have been well-used. This piece of paper that has or this piece of card stock that is torn. I can use it on one of the inner layers. So I don't need to worry too much about that being shown. But you still want to be careful because that tape does leave a bit of oppressive bit of an impression within the card stock. I'm trying to keep these layers as perfect as possible so that I have a choice as to which one I want to use for my top layer. And simpler shapes are going to die cut and much easier and going to be able to be taken out of the card stock much easier when it is die cut, but it's holding on in a few places, so it's wanting to fight a little bit. Like I said, we don't need to keep these flower die cuts for this card, but am still being careful with them because it's nice to have some dye cuts pre-cut for future projects. So I don't necessarily want to rip them as I'm coming out. So I wanted to, I do want to be careful with them. Alright, there we go. That one is out. This one here we can take the tape off. The nice thing about using the same piece of tape over and over again as it does get a little bit easier to work with, a little bit less sticky. But if it's less sticky to the point where it's not actually holding your die in place, then you do need to replace it with a new piece of tape. Alright, so we've got our three pieces of card stock here, dy plus our flower base. And then they all line up toward the back of a back-and-forth, the dicot on this part here, but we can fix up there. Alright, so I'll see you in the next video what we will do, the actual stained glass technique on this card. 3. Flower Card: Colouring & Adding Glossy Accents: We're ready to do the stained glass technique. I've got my supplies out here, so I'm going to choose one of these pieces to be my front and I'm going to tuck it aside because it doesn't get glued on until the very last step. So those I can talk aside for the moment. I need it, you need a piece of acetate. You can buy sheets of acetate or else you can reuse. Packaging is from say, stamps or dies or whatnot. It needs to be crystal clear. And you don't want something that was all scratched or whatever just because it doesn't really look as pretty. So I'm going to take some distress collage medium. And I am going to put glue all the way around that flower, including the little bits that go in. Because we don't want any bits that can catch on anything. There we go. And then I'm gonna put a line down there for the side. And Hawaii was this one. Put a line down here for the side. Just want to make sure that it sticks really, really well. And then as I'm putting it down, I'm making sure that it doesn't go outside of the edges of the card or outside of the fold. Right? So this next step, I actually don't need to wait for it to dry. It's just coloring the acetate where the flower is. And I'm gonna put a piece of paper underneath this just so you can see the color that's going down a little bit better. Now I'm using Copic markers, which are an alcohol marker, which works perfectly on acetate. The one thing though, is it does leave a streak marks. Which for this is absolutely perfect. I find if you do it really quickly before the ink dries, it tends to be a little bit more forgiving, but for this particular design, it just looks like petals. So I actually really like it for this design. When we get to some of the other cards, I'll show you how to work it so that it's a little bit less streaky. Smaller areas are also going to be more forgiving. There we go. So that is colored, That's as simple as I'm going to color it. You could go detail and do darker and lighter colors. But because the focus here is the stained glass part, I didn't want to make the flower too complicated as well as the fact that it's a simple design. So now I'm going to take these pieces. I'm going to use the same distress collage media and put some glue on it. Now again, it's important to get it around all of the edges. We're creating a little bit of a dam around the edge of the die cut and the piece of acetate. And it's gonna make a little bit more sense when we get to the next part, we're going to put some Glossy Accents in order to fill that area. Make it glossy and make it look like stained glass. So in this class, there's actually three different ways and I'm going to show you how to create a foe like a stained glass. Look. This one here, we're going to be using some glossy accents. So I want to line my die cuts up perfectly. You don't want to see the ones below it. I'm just going to press it down lightly and then I'm going to glue this same one on. Now I'm using three extra sheets of or quarter sheets of card stock for the front of my card. If your card stock is thinner, you'd need more. If it's thicker, you might be able to get away with less. Or if you want some more dimension to it, It's up to you. The card stock that I'm using for it is not super thick, but it's also not really, really thin either. It's kind of a medium weight for card stock. I chose to go with three. All right, and again, lining it up perfectly. Then those little bits that stick in tangent need to have helped some tends to have a little bit of help being pressed down. I'm going to put an acrylic block on it just for a moment, just to help hold it down while it is glued in place. So I'm going to use some glossy accents here. I just have a small bottle of it. Excuse me. I find the small bottle, you have just a little bit more control the flow is a little bit less. I tend to use the small bottle a little bit more. As well as the fact that I tend to put glossy accents on smaller areas, which is why the smoke, I'm going to leave this on here so you can stay. Which is why the small bottle is nice. If you intend to do a lot of really large areas, you might find a bigger bottle, a little bit more handy. So the reason that we didn't put all three of those quarter fold pieces on here is while I'm putting this glossy accents on, if some of it happens to go over the edge, it's going to look a little bit sloppy. By leaving that last piece on. I'm just doing the Glossy Accents, letting it completely dry. And then we will put that cover piece on so it stays pristine. I find with this, no matter how hard you try, like I got a little bit that went over the edge there. It's going to go over the edge. And especially down these down the stem is a little bit harder. In this particular bottle was plugged, so I had to use something to unplug it. So I actually have a little slice up my, the tip of my bottle, which makes the Glossy Accents actually go out the side of it a little bit. So I'm having a little bit harder time controlling exactly where it goes. But because we leave that top part off, it's not going to matter. All of this, anything that happens to go over here is going to be completely hidden. Now, I didn't get any bubbles as I was taking my Glossy Accents out. But if by chance you do happen to get a bubble in there, we just take a needle or a thumbtack and just poke the bubble until it pops. I hold, I store my Glossy Accents, tip down so that it's always right at the tip so that I don't have to move it to get my Glossy Accents flowing. And I find that I rarely get bubbles by doing that. So now that the glossy accents is in here, this needs to completely dry before we move on to the next step. Because acetate is on one side, it's only really drawing from the top. So it's going to take a lot longer than say if you put the glossy accents onto card stock. So it might need to dry completely overnight. I know the other mediums absolutely do this one here. I will keep an eye on it throughout the day and once it's ready, I'll fill in the last part and then I will update with update you with how long I had to wait for it to completely dry so you have a little bit better gauge. One thing I forgot. I'm going to put some stickers in the center of the flower just to give it some more definition. And that way you can tell a little bit better where that center is. Then that can dry with the glossy accents. So I'll see you back when this is completely dry and we can continue on. 4. Flower Card: Assembly & Finishing Touches: Alright, so the card is completely dry. It actually took probably about seven or eight hours for that to totally dry. The Glossy Accents itself was dry quite a bit sooner, but that spot of stickers that I put in the center that took a lot longer to dry. So last step on this card is to add a sentiment. And once again, I'm using my stamp positioner because again, after all this work, we once again this covers card. After all of this work, it would be very disappointing to miss stamp and not be able to position our stamp in order to get that better. So I'm inking my stamp. This way. If by chance something doesn't stamp perfectly, I can rethink it and stamp it again. This one stamped. Absolutely perfect. So we're good there. And there we go, Our completed card. So this one here actually is a little bit off on the side there. So I'm just going to show you how to fix that. You could use a scissors, but it's actually the back of the card. That's just a little bit long compared to the front part. I'm doing my tremor out. I'm just going to trim a I guess not even an eighth of an inch. I don't think just to touch on the side. There. There we go. That's better. There we go. I completed card. Will see you in the next one. 5. Tree Card: Die Cut Prep: The second card that we are going to make is this tree card. So I'm going to show you first what I mean when I talk about the die not cutting all the way through two layers. So this die is a little bit more intricate than that flower die. Actually a lot more intricate than that flower died. So what we're gonna do is we're going to do the same process of taping our dye to our card stuck place it where you want it to go and then tape it down. Lineup your two pieces of card stock here, I've got to line them up. So when I'm running this one through, it's going to die cut through this top layer, but it's only going to make an impression in the second layer. So there's a few odd bits that have actually cut all the way through. But for the most part, it's only made an impression in that second layer. It hasn't actually cut it all the way through. So what we're going to do is we need to take this die off of this piece of paper here. Take the die, cut out, tuck it aside. Then this needs to be cutting. It needs to come out of the machine. I use a spell binders tool and one to do this because it's got a lot of little bits in there that we want to poke out. Then I need to take my Deepak and help get that die cut out. These cards will work for pretty much any dice and we'll look better than others. So the first one, there was no outline to the die. It was just the image of the flower. This one here, the tree Design acts kind of like an outline. And then you see the ST, sorry, you see the stained glass in-between. So neither one is right or wrong. They're just a little bit different. And what I did too, one of the trees afterwards was we're not afterwards. After we did stop. At a certain point is I put some versa mark on it and then put embossing powder on it so that would have a bit of a metallic finish to it. So when you're doing this process, you're going to end up with four. In this case, trees cut out for die cuts, cut out. You only need two of them for the complete card. The other two, you can say for a future project. So now we've got the die cut out of the first piece. If you wiggle it on the card here, all of a sudden, it will put itself in those indents from running through the machine, like it will align itself up and you won't be able to slide it around anymore. That's how you know, it's in exactly the right spot. So what you're going to tape it in that spot and then you're going to run it through the Michigan again. So you need to do this for all four layers to the three-quarter folds plus your card base. I'm only doing it for these two just to show you how to do it. I've already pre-practice, so I don't need to do this. Again. I just wanted you to see how to do it rather than watching the entire process because this particular die, because it's more intricate, it takes a lot longer to take up the dye cut. The video would be a lot longer. So you're gonna do that with all of your pieces until you have 1 second here, until you have your three. Unfold the card. Your three-quarter full pieces to put them on, just stick together right now, plus your card base. And again, you're going to have four dicots. We only need two of them for the actual card, the other ones you can save for future projects. I'll see you in the next video and we'll start the actual stain glass technique on this card. 6. Tree Card: Stained Glass Technique: So the first thing we need to do for this technique is same as last time. We need to put our piece of acetate over our window. So we're going to use some distress collage medium again to do that. I like using the distress collage media because it dries completely clear and it also dries matte. So if you get it a little bit on your card stock, you're never going to see that it was there. It's very forgiving that way. In the last card, we use kopecks to color our window are stained glass. In this one we're going to use some glossy gel mediums and last gel medium. And we're going to use alcohol inks to color that gloss gel medium. Rather than just coloring it with kopecks, I wanted to show you a different way to do it. So there's a different, a bit of variety in ways that you can create the same. Look. There we go. We're going to make sure that that window is completely covered. And then we're going to glue our pieces on the front. So same as last time there was one piece that we're not gonna glue onto the front. So I'm tucking that to the side right away. And then putting my glue all the way around the edges and also around that tree. So once again, we're kind of creating a bit of a seal. So I'm making sure to put the glue out in those little sticky out points. I want to make sure that they are glued down and that they're not flipping up. You don't need a big beat. Igloo, just a little one is fine. Then once again, we're matching our dicots perfectly. If by chance when you've die cut, something has shifted and you've got your light edges don't line up. Just wait until you're done your card and then you can just trim it a little bit. Sometimes, despite our best efforts to try to get things perfectly lined up, things happen. The pressure of the machine moves the die. I'm just something just shifts or whatever. So there is a way to fix it afterwards and it's just trimming it. And I typically do use this scissors because it's a little bit easier. You could use. I have a guillotine tremor that goes through several sheets of card stock at once. You could use that. But because we have four sheets of card stock, it doesn't necessarily like that much card stock. So I tend to use a scissors because usually it's only a little bit of a sliver that needs to be trimmed. There we go. Just squeeze that bottle of it because the glue nine was getting a little bit, a little bit narrow. Alright, once again, lining everything up into place. Because we're using liquid glue to, it's very easy to show show me things out. If it doesn't lay down perfectly the first time, I'm going to put an acrylic block down just to hold it in place while we are mixing up our colors. So you could use one color of gel medium that would totally work. I decided to use two different colored or sorry. The gloss medium is it's clear. It's I mean, two different colors of alcohol ink. So I'm going to put a little bit of a well in each one of them. You could also use diary anchors that would work here as well. I chose to use alcohol ink simply because the way we're coloring our acetate is with alcohol markers and I just wanted to keep the same. But you absolutely could use diary and careers for this that would work. Or even if you have a dye ink pad, you can smash it on your surface and then blend your gloss medium through that that works as well. Alright, mix that all through. And then let's mix the second color. There we go. I chose tried to tell it to use greens that we're a little bit in the same color family, but clearly, clearly they're a little bit off, but that's okay. They're going to blend. So we're using a palette knife here. And I'm just trying to get a blend of the two different colors. I'm not necessarily making sure that it's all covered evenly. I want to see little bits because when you go out in nature and see trees, they're not all the same shade throughout the whole tree. And don't worry about any of this stuff that's on the card stock because we're going to get the excess off. I'm just trying to make sure that everything has some in it first and then We're gonna go like this and we're going to even it out. There we go. This we need to let dry and this one absolutely will take all night too dry, so best to do it, say at night and then finish your card in the morning or do it first thing in the morning and then to plan on finishing your card at night. But this is the reason why we kept that other one because there's no way to avoid this. So now we have something to go over top of it, that it's going to cover that and it's going to make it look pristine again. So tuck that aside to dry and I'll see you once it's dry tomorrow and we'll finish the card off. Got a little ahead of myself there. What I want to do tonight so that it is prepped for tomorrow is I'm going to put the embossing powder on one of the trees. The other one is going to stay white. We don't need any powder with that one. So what I'm gonna do is put it on a piece of scrap paper, get my bursa mark pad, press it all over that die cut making sure that we've got the ink all over it. Now I'm not going to pour my powder on this piece of paper because I've been pushing my ink pad and it would stick to all that ink there. So I'm gonna put it onto a clean, a clean scrap piece of paper. And you can be very liberal with your powder here because anything that does not stick to that die cut is going to go right back into the container. Tap the excess off. Lately. There we go. I'm going to use my die pick to hold it in place while I am embossing. That way, it's not going to go around. And if by chance when you're done, you get a little piece of white there. We can just yes. The pad and it again. Just to fill that spot up. Typically I don't get that, but I must have moved my die pick as it was embossing and scraped a little bit of that powder off but easy enough to fix. So now I can just hold it in my hand because everything else is dry and cool. Now if you couldn't see it, it goes from a granular, dull color to a molten, shiny gold. There we go. So that is ready for tomorrow now. And now I really see you tomorrow to finish the card off. 7. Tree Card: Assembly & Finishing Touches: All right, Our gloss medium is completely dried here. So we're going to glue or tree to the frontier. Put the glue all the way along the outside of the perimeter, plus all the places on the die cut that jot out a little bit. There we go. I'm going to lay this down like this. Make sure that die cut lines up completely. Then our dicots here. So this one here, we're going to put some glue on it and we're going to inlet rate into that opening. You could leave it like this if you want. But I really liked the look that that golden boss dicot gives it. I think it really helps finish it off. So this part is while you want to get glue onto all of those little pieces that stick out. Plus a little bit down the center. Then it's gonna be just like fitting a puzzle piece into a puzzle. So we just inlay it right in there. There we go. And then I do like to put an acrylic block over top of it. And then just a bit of a wait just to hold it down a little bit so that glue get some good contact. So I'm going to let that sit for a couple of minutes and then I will be back and we'll glue in the last one. Alright, that is had a couple of minutes. So take it off. And it's good. So this here, you could leave it like that if you wanted. But we've got these dicots anyways, adding this in the back, it just finishes that often that way you don't see the back of the other die cut. So the one thing though is we're going to put the glue on what would be the good side of the die cut? The side you would normally have showing. Just because if we put the glue on the wrong side, then the dye cuts not going to match because it's not symmetrical. And same as the front. We want to put glue on all of those little nooks and crannies. Just so we don't have anything poking out. A tiny little bit on that trunk. Then exactly the same as the front. We're just going to poke it in like a puzzle piece. There we go. Same as the front. I'm going to put my acrylic block on it, put a week. So I got ahead of myself once again. Let's add the sentiment to the card. This time I'm just doing a happy birthday card. You can make this Merry Christmas, make it winter. It could be a masculine card, whatever you want. So I've got my stamp right there. Let's put it so you can see it. I'm just going to ink it by using the stamp positioner. If by chance it doesn't stamp perfectly, I can re-enact the stamp and go back at it, but it did stamp absolutely perfectly. So we're good to go. There we are. Her birthday card is done. 8. Snowflake Card: Stained Glass Technique: This is the third card we're going to make a snowflake card. So very similar to the tree card, we've got a die cut with an outline that we've used some embossing powder on the difference here. And I'm going to use this little t light to show it to you. Is the glass or the stained glass part is frosted. And the way we did that is by using some matte medium. And then I chose to mix in some glitter and other glitter isn't super sparkly, so you don't really see a lot of shimmer. It just adds more texture to it than anything. But here's how we're going to do. I've got everything, die cut, my card base, my snowflake pieces, and then I've got the two snowflakes here that we're going to use. For the last step. This particular di creates this piece as well. You could take it if you want an add it to the front. But for me I chose not to because it covered a little bit of that frosted glass look, and I wanted to be able to see that. So let's get to it. So I've got a bigger piece of acetate here. It is actually the size of a quarter sheet of card stock. I don't need it to be quite that big and I don't want to chance it is going to go past my edges. So I'm going to trim out a quarter of an inch off. Technically, I could do it shorter just to do it. To not do it in there. But that's okay. So let's toss that away. This is your side. And once again, we're going to glue this on. So I want to get glue and all of those bits there that are poking in anything that could possibly lift up. And once again, it doesn't need to be a thick be to glue a thin beta glu is totally fine. But I just wanted to make sure that all of those little bits and pieces get glued down onto the acetate. You can choose how intricate or how simple the dyes that you use for this are. Stained glass techniques will work with any of the three designs. I just wanted to be able to show a few different ways to do that. So that if say you didn't have one of the products, but you had another one, you absolutely could still do it. Alright, the outline is done and now I'm going to go around the edges just to, just to glue that down a little bit. So making sure that all of my edges of my acetate or within the card front. Then again, I need to choose which one of these I want to use as my card front. I'm going to choose that one there. So these two are gonna get glued down, same as the tree. As you can see, I go around the perimeter of the piece of card stock and then I go around all of the die cut edge. Especially when you have a die cut that's intricate as this, it does get a little bit fiddly going through all of these little bits. And it's not everyone's cup of tea. But I do think that the final card result is a lot more. It's got a lot more wow factor to me when the dye cut is a little bit more intricate. But as a beginner, I would definitely start with something a little bit simpler. And try your hand at it first, and then work your way up to a dicot that's a little bit more intricate and detailed. Once again, making sure to line up all that die cut there. Then I'm pushing down all of those bits to make sure that they've got some contact with the acetate. And then repeat the process for the next piece. And you absolutely could do this without adding the glitter to it. You could just use the I'm Matt texture paste. I just thought it would look neat with a little bit of extra texture in it. I think I'll just call it a texture paste matte medium. And obviously this time because we added the glitter and also because it's a snowflake, we didn't color it with anything. But if you chose a design that lended itself to a different color, you absolutely could color it in with either alcohol inks or diary incurs. There we go. Then align it once again. We go. And then once again, I like to put a piece of lost my English acrylic block on it. Sometimes I'll put something with glass beads and it just to give a heavier weight. But you definitely don't need to. I just like something that will press it down. Often card stock when you've got liquid mediums and stuff like that, it tends to the card stock tends to warp or lift up or whatever, especially with all of those little bits on that this snowflake has. I'm just using that acrylic block to hold it down. I could use my hands and hold it down as well, but gonna be awfully boring to watch. So I've got my matte medium here on my surface. I'm going to add some glitter to it and I mix it through just the same way as mixing a color. And the glitter that I have is like micro fine. It's really, really fine glitter, but you could use a chunk of your glitter as well. That part is not going to matter at all. Alright, once it's mixed, we can lift this up and we can add our medium torso flake. And this one just like the gloss medium, is going to take overnight dry. So you definitely want to put it somewhere where you're not going to be working around it, touching it, and just let it on its own to dry. Alright, we've got everything covered. So then I'm going to use the texture or the palette knife to smooth that out. I'm avoiding the back of the card when I'm using this. It's easier because you've got those two layers of card stock, so it's raised up a bit. Now, I like to make it nice and smooth if you wanted, you could make it a little bit textured. But I like it when it's a little bit smoother. The texture would look really, really cool with the, with the tree shape. Alright, there we go. So I'm going to set that aside to dry. I will see you tomorrow when we will finish this card off. Did it again, I got ahead of myself again. Before I finish this section, we're gonna do the same to the snowflake that we did with the tree. I'm going to put some reversal mark ink and I'm going to quit some embossing powder on it. So the tree I did gold embossing powder, this one, I'm doing a liquid platinum. You could also use silver. I just thought. The liquid plot now has almost a bit of a earthy brownie tone to it. Like it's a silver that's got a bit of a brownish tone that I kind of liked it. I thought it made it look a little bit more elegant. And to me it looks a little bit more like the letting on stained glass. So let's put the excess back on the container here. Then once again, I'm going to use my day I picked to hold it while I'm in Boston. Perfect. Now I only do one layer of embossing if you wanted. You could put more versa mark on it and you can add a second layer just to thicken that up a bit. But I like it just the way it is. So now I'll see you tomorrow and we'll finish the cargo. 9. Snowflake Card: Assembly & Finishing Touches: Alright, our stuff is dry in the center there. And it did take 24 hours for it to completely dry. I try I looked at it last night, which was about 1012 hours and touched it and you can see the indent where I touched it and it was still wet and the Center for the matte medium for sure you definitely need to wait a long time. But if you're doing a bunch of them, it's not really a big deal to do a whole bunch and have them sitting out to dry. Not necessarily that you'd be doing a whole bunch of them with a really intricate dilate this. But once again, I am putting the glue all around all of those little bits that stick in. As well as the perimeter of my piece of card stock here. Wanted to make sure that they are glued down really well. There we go. So we're going to match up our snowflake opening. Perfect. And while that is drying for a few minutes, I am going to put the glue on my embossed snowflake so that we can inlay that. This is definitely going to take a few minutes. We want to make sure to get all of those bits that are sticking out. We want to make sure that it's going to stay into our opening and glue onto the dry matte medium in there. So anything that sticks out, I'm putting glue on as well as the center part there. I want to make sure that that gets glued into place really well. Once again, I'm using collage medium that dries matte and it dries clear. So if any of this goes onto the card stock front of my card, It's not going to show those. There we go. All right. Once again, we're going to pop it into there like a puzzle piece. Alright, I am going to put this on and then put my weight on there and let that sit for a few minutes. And then once that has sat, we're going to glue this onto the inside of the card and then we're going to stand for sentiment. Alright, that glue is pretty much dry. It's not a 100% dry, but as long as it's staying in place while we do this, we're good. So once again, on the inside, I am gluing. I'm putting the glue on the side of the die cut that you would normally 1 second my glutes not wanting to come out now, I'm putting the glue on the side of the die cut that you would normally have facing out the part that's rounded because I want to inlay it into that opening. Now, the reason for the tree was because it was not asymmetrical. And we'll look kinda funny. This, I think it would look kinda funny if it was flipped around. But if you chose and you wanted it to be flipped around and have the nicer side of the die cut sticking out. That's totally fine. This is just a cover. All of that stuff that's inside there. Just to make it look a little bit neater. Same as the other die cut. I am putting the glue and all the pieces that are sticking out here, almost there. Last bit ago. Inlay that. Once again, I'm going to put my weight on there, let that sit for a few minutes and then we will be back and we will stamp, are sentimental, right? Those pieces are stuck. Last step is to stamp or sentiment. We're going to use the stamp positioner again so that we can place it exactly where we want. And then if it doesn't stamp perfectly, we can reincarnate stamp to do that. So again, I've got pumice stone here. It's the same. A similar, It's just some more color to the liquid platinum embossing powder that we used on our snowflake. It's a gray that's got a bit of a brown tone to it. That's pretty good, but I'm just gonna do it again. There we go. So it matches really, really nicely with that. There and there we have our finished card. I don't know where my tea light would went to. Otherwise, I'd show you the inside that you can see through it, but because you can't see through my hand there, you can see a little bit, but there we go. Our snowflake card is done. 10. Butterfly Card: Stamping, Embossing & Colouring: So this here is the next card that we're gonna do is we're going to shift from using just dies to using some stamps and dies. So this one here is a set that has coordinating dies. I've already cut the windows out of the card. Now because we are using stamps and we're going to emboss, we need to use an acetate that is heat resistant. You need specialty acetate because regular acetate, as soon as you put the heat gun on it, It's going to start to warp the butterflies or whatever I cut you choose. We don't need them for this car, so you can stay at that for a future project. So I've got this already cut. Let's move here. And I'm going to show you how to place your butterflies. I'm going to do it on this part here. So if I happen to get a little bit of the ink on here, it's not going to matter because this part here is gonna be sandwiched between between the acetate and whatnot, so I won't see it. I'm going to save this for the front of the card. I'm going to put my piece here into machine. One second. In the corner there. I want to put my acetate underneath here because I'm going to use that to stamp on. I've got a piece of media grip mat in here. It is super, super thin and it helps to grip that acetate so it doesn't move around. So I use my magnets to make sure that nothing in here shifts. And what I'm gonna do is I'm going to put this stamp in the opening and I'm just going to shimmy it around and it gets to the point where that stamp goes right into that opening and you can't shimmy it anymore. So now I'm going to stick that to the top or to the top part of my stamp platform. And this will work with any stamp platform you can use whichever one it doesn't need to be a specific one. You do want to make sure that you get those stamps precisely placed so that you can stamp precisely so that those butterflies will match their windows. Now for this card, you may have noticed I have my card base and I have one here, one layer, and we're going to put the acetate between there. If you want to add extra layers, you can. I did it with the sample card, but I found you didn't really need it because I chose not to put the liquid or glossy accents or the gloss medium in here. I want it to be able to see the detail and the texture from the embossing. So I decided only to use one layer on the top. Alright, so once the stamps are in place, I am going to move those magnets. I'm just going to put a magnet down on my acetate to make sure that it doesn't move. It shouldn't its grip to the media mat. But I just want to be extra sure. I'm going to close it to make sure that those magnets are not in the way of my stamps. I am going to put some versa mark on those stamps and stamp it makes sure to press each one of these stamps to make sure you get a clear impression. And you can actually see the ink on the acetate right here didn't stamp quite so well. So I'm going to put a little bit of extra ink conveyor and do it again. If there's anything that didn't stamp, you're obviously not gonna get any embossing on it because there will be nothing for that to stick to. So I'm going to lift this up here, put this to the side a moment. Even though you can't see the ink, it is absolutely there. So a piece of scrap paper beneath and let's add or embossing powder. So for this one, I'm going to use some of the liquid platinum one. Again. I just really like the color of it. Tap the excess off. Now I do have a few spots that have some embossing powder where they're not supposed to be. Just going to close that up first. There's a spot there and a spot there. And really it doesn't matter because it's going to be between between the two layers. But if you wanted to take it off, just a soft brush, loosen it and then you can flick it off so then it won't be there. Alright, so now we're going to heat it. And because this is heat resistant acetate, It's not heat proof, so it will start to warp a little bit. I'm just going to keep moving my heat gun around so it's not on the same spot for very long. And I just realized I had some embossing on the bottom from on my sheet here. So let's move that out of the way. There we go. Give it a couple of seconds to cool down. I'm going to color the butterflies before gluing them onto the card. So this is the side that has my embossing on it. It cools down fairly quick. I'm going to color on the opposite side. Now, anything that like the outside of the butterflies is going to be covered by our dicots. So I don't really need to worry too much about staying within the lines because it's very forgiving when you've got something else that's going to cover those edges. So I can color super, super quick. If there's a line there that you don't like, just go back over with the lighter color and you can soften that a little bit and mix that in. And I'm using Copic markers for this. It's an alcohol-based marker. It needs to be an alcohol-based markers. Sharpies would work as well. You can't use a database marker for this because it will not dry on the acetate. I picked up some of that pink with my marker here when I was coloring in order to clean it off to school on a scrap piece of paper and just color it off and you can clean your marker off that way. Next one, let's use some yellow and then I'm going to use some orange. The best part of what using butterflies is you can color them whatever way you want. And that's one of the reasons why I love using butterfly stamps. It was, we'll be creative. There's so many different colors of butterflies that sky is the limit. There we go. And then I'm going to use blue on. Here. I noticed when I was doing my sample that the darker, brighter colors work best. I have some that I wanted to use, but they ended up being quite a bit lighter. So you actually didn't see the color when it was on the acetate. So keep in mind to use brighter colors so that you can see it. So once again, if you get a different color on there, it's not going to ruin your marker at all. You do want to clean it off because that would be not a nice surprise if you go to color something next time and you happen to have blue on here and you didn't want blue. There we go. That is all colored and ready. I'll see you in the next video and we'll assemble our card. 11. Butterfly Card: Assembly& Finishing Touches: Alright, so the current assembly is really fairly simple and quite close to what we did for the other die cut cars. I'm going to put some adhesive around the edge here. Obviously this is my card base. So I'm going to glue the acetate onto it first, mashing up the embossed images with the openings. And then I'm going to put the other layer on the top. And I'm going to put it underneath and acrylic block just to hold it in place for a few minutes, just to make sure everything is adhered properly. Now you do want to take a second to make sure that everything is matching within the window. And you can see that the acetate is worked at tiny bit. But it will flatten out a little bit as I'm pressing it down here. So now let's do the other part. And same as the other ones. I want to get any of those little bits that are sticking in there, anything that can catch on anything. I want to make sure that those are glued down. So I'm making sure to put some adhesive on those parts. There we go. Then same as the other layer, we're matching layers and the stamping. So I wanna make sure this has completely dried and then I'm going to stamp the sentiment. So I'm going to let this sit for a few minutes. I'll be back for you in a second, and then we will stamp the sentiment, alright, to our layers are dry here. So now let's stand for sentiment. So I'm going to put it in my stamp positioner. You could eyeball it and just go for it. However, because of all the layers and all the work we've already done, if by chance you stamp it and it doesn't stamp perfectly, it's gonna be really, really difficult to get it in the same spot. So by having a stamp positioner, I know that if it doesn't stamp perfectly, I can just rethink my stamp and go in again. So it just gives you a little bit of insurance there. I'm using a pumice stone pad. It's a gray that's got a bit of brown to it and I really like it with the platinum ink. So I like my stamp as is. If you wanted it darker, you could again rethink the stamp and stamp it again, but I like that as it is. So you can clean your stamp and take it out. There we go. We've got our stained-glass stamped and a boss card. I'll see you in the next video and we'll show you the last technique. 12. Poinsettia Card: Stamping, Embossing & Colouring: So the points that occurred is our last card that we're going to make today. Now the reason I wanted to do this one is because I wanted you to know that you don't necessarily have to if you wanted to do stamping, embossing. You don't necessarily have to have stamps and dies that match. You could use an image stamp within oval, circle, square, whatever shape that you want and create a stained glass card that way. So this one here, I've already got the oval cut out of it. I'm going to put this to the side. I'm going to use my card base two position where I want my stamps. My acetate here is really wanting to stick to that media grip mat. Now, this acetate once again because we're doing some stamping and embossing is the heat resistant one. Sorry, lost my English again there. Alright, so I've got my stamp where I want it to go. I'm going to put it back up and then I'm going to take my card based off and tuck it to the side. So I'm going to put my verse and Mark ink onto my stamp here. So versa marketing because just some embossing ink is a clear sticky ink. So that's what the embossing powder is going to stick to. It's stamped perfectly the first time. So I'm going to take my acetate, I would've there and my stamp as well, and tuck that to the side. Now this one I'm in Boston with black ink. And the reason I did that was because I wanted to show you a little trick to getting your embossing powder to match your card when working with Copic markers. And it only works if you do it on black card stock. And you'll see why in a minute. There we go. The rest of this powder back in the container. And then we emboss. And once again, I'm going to move my heat gun around quite a bit so that I'm not having the heat in one area because again, as heat resistant, not heat proof, so it will start to warp if I if it gets too hot in an area, go to color my scrap piece of paper here so that you can see what I'm doing. And again, I'm going to color on the backside. We're going to do the back. Actually. No, I'm gonna do this. I'm going to put this underneath it just so I can see where my opening is. I'm just putting a little bit of blue in the background just to give it a bit of color, you can leave it alone. You could use a different color. I didn't want the blue to overtake the red of the point set of though. So I kept it light. And if by chance you get over the edge, you don't need to worry about it because as soon as I go with the red, it is going to completely cover the blue and take that away. So I ended up not getting perfect stamping here. I was looking at all the petals. I didn't think to look in there. So I'm just putting the yellow where I want it. I don't think it's gonna be a huge issue. It's not a big focal point of the card. And I'm coloring the whole red spot. This is kind of a pinky red. Then I'm gonna take my lighter color and just the pink. And I'm going to take some of that red from the edges of the flowers. And again, you're going to see a little bit of streaking. It just happens with alcohol ink on plastic and buy alcoholic I mean, alcohol ink markers. Alcohol ink in a bottle is going to react completely different, but that's because it's a different form of the medium. So now I'm going to take a lighter color and not worrying about this part at all. It's not on the front of the card, so there's no point in worrying about it. I'm taking my lighter color and I'm just going to take some of that color off of those petals. And then clean your brush between times because you want to take some of that off, it will start to build up on there. This marker is actually a little bit dry and I don't have a refill for it so I can't refill it. It'll be it would be better if the marker was a little bit wetter. I'm going to use the lighter pink, just see if that works a bit better. There we go. Just wanted a little bit more difference between the lighter and the darker of the two colors there. The reason I'm doing the lighter and the darker, because if I just colored this all one color or red or pink, this is a pinky red. You wouldn't necessarily see the shadow of the pedal going behind the other petals. So I'm trying to make sure that I am seeing some of the highlights and some of the shadows. By doing this. I'm using kopecks because that's what I have. There's a whole bunch of different brands of alcohol markers. You could use any one of them. I'm sure the other brands would work the same way as this. Capex, I believe, were the first brand of alcohol markers and they're just the ones that I had and I quite like them. So anytime I've tried in the other ones, they've not been my cup of tea. I know some of the other ones are a lot more economical for people that are starting out, once again, to clean your marker, color it on some scrap paper until the other color is clear. You may get a little bit of staining on your marker, but it's not going to ruin it at all. As long as that color comes out. Good to go. Alright, so there we are. Let's start to assemble. Just want to make sure that I have my oval the right way just because it might not have place have been placed exactly. This one. Obviously there's a lot fewer mixing crannies to get that glue in. So just around this rectangle of the card front and then around. Make sure you glue it on, right? And then around the oval and you're good to go. And then this one here match up that oval. Perfect. And obviously you can't see it as much because it's on the black mount that I'm working on. But I'm going to put my acrylic block and some weight on it and let that dry for a moment and I'll be back in the next video to show you how to do the sentiment. 13. Poinsettia Card: Final Touches: Alright, the card is dried. The last step is adding our sentiment. So I just have a merry Christmas segment here that clearly doesn't want to stick to my blog. There we go. So versa, Marque Inc, same ink we've been using throughout the class. I'm going to stamp. Then we're going to emboss it with white powder. Same as before. If you get some powder where you don't want it, use a soft brush to brush it off. It has to be done before embossing. Embossing is going to melt the powder. So if you've got powder where you don't want it, that heat gun is just going to heat it in place. Alright, let's heat it. I always heat with the heat gun away from your fingers that he can gets a little bit warm. So you don't want to be pointing it towards herself because service to not feel good after awhile. Alright, it was slightly cricket on there, so I'm going to straighten it a little bit. This part you could do after you've colored it. There we go. So now we're going to use that same color Copic marker that we use to color in the points data. I'm going to color the embossing powder. Now this is why it has to be done on black because that black won't show the color you've been coloring with. But it's a great way to just add a custom sentiment in a perfect color to match your card. Then you could glue it flat to it. I chose to pop it up, so grab some pop dots, put them on the back of your sentiment there. Just adds a little bit of extra dimension. And just like the butterfly, why we only had two layers with one, this one, the back of the card plus the front, because it didn't really need more layers. But there we go, another stain glass card. But without having matching dies. But you can totally see through it. 14. Stained Glass Card Class Thank You: Thank you so much for joining me for the stained glass cards class. I hope you enjoyed learning the different techniques in this class and it's inspired you for some of your future projects and ways to incorporate, incorporate the stained glass technique in some of your future projects. We've seen back in class soon.