Shooting a Car Like a Pro: Master Automotive Photography | Pedro Thomaz | Skillshare
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Shooting a Car Like a Pro: Master Automotive Photography

teacher avatar Pedro Thomaz, Pro-Photographer

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Car Photography Masterclass: Shoot Like a Pro

      2:18

    • 2.

      The Art of Car Photography: Practical Shooting Tips and Tricks

      19:36

    • 3.

      Transforming Car Photos: Advanced Editing Like a Pro

      11:58

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About This Class

Ready to take your automotive photography to the next level? Join me in this comprehensive class, "Shooting a Car Like a Pro," where you'll learn everything you need to capture stunning car photos that stand out.

Whether you're a medium or an experienced photographer, this class covers all the essential techniques and tips for shooting cars like a pro. From selecting the right gear and settings to mastering composition and lighting, you'll gain valuable insights and hands-on guidance to elevate your car photography skills.

What You'll Learn:

  • Preparation: Discover how to best prepare yourself to shoot a certain car.
  • Location and Lighting: Learn how to choose the perfect location and harness natural and artificial lighting to highlight the car's features.
  • Composition Techniques: Master the art of framing, angles, and perspectives to create dynamic and engaging car photos.
  • Action Shots: Capture cars in motion with precision and creativity.
  • Post-Processing: Enhance your photos with editing tips and tricks using popular software like Lightroom and Photoshop.
  • Practical Tips: Get insider tips on working with clients, shooting in different weather conditions, and more.

By the end of this class, you'll have the skills and confidence to shoot cars like a professional.

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Pedro Thomaz

Pro-Photographer

Teacher

Ola, o meu nome e Pedro Thomaz e sou fotografo profissional ha perto de 18 anos.

As minhas areas principais da fotografia sao a fotografia automovel, retratos, produto e arquitetura.

Tambem trabalho com fotografia (e video) 360o.

Para mais informacoes, visitem o meu site em https://pedrothomaz.pt

See full profile

Level: Intermediate

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Transcripts

1. Car Photography Masterclass: Shoot Like a Pro: Welcome to my course about shooting and editing a car like a Pro. First of all, let me introduce myself. My name is Pedro Tomas. I'm Portuguese. I have a vast curriculum or portfolio with cars. It's my main occupation is shooting cars for diverse range of brands. I've worked with Mercedes Bands, BMW. I've worked with Porsche. I've worked with oper several brands, so I have a lot of experience. This field. So that's me. This course will be four medium and advanced levels, meaning beginners will have a hard time comprehending me and following what I'm saying. So this is more targeted towards medium and advanced shooters that want to improve on their car photography skills, necessary material. Of course, you're going to need a camera, A modern camera will do, and then you will need something to edit the photo in. The software I mainly work with is light room and photoshop, since they are interlinked, so that's the main software. You're going to need to follow 100% what I'm doing. Doesn't mean that other photo editing software will not work because the concepts will work not only in photoshop, but in other software. So it's okay if you use another software. What are we going to do? We are going to learn how to shoot a car properly. Some techniques, some tips, like the most common angles, some different angles, but that work awesome. Some things that are necessary from what I've experienced, some things that are really necessary, and some things that you will want to know as a photographer to differentiate yourself from all the photographers out there that shoot cars. So this is my intro. I hope you like this course, and let's do this. 2. The Art of Car Photography: Practical Shooting Tips and Tricks: Hello. Welcome to my first lesson in shooting a car like a pro. So in this lesson, we are going to learn about the actual shooting of the car. Not the editing, not anything else. We are going to learn about shooting the car, which is the basis of all our work from now on. So let's imagine we have a car to shoot. Let's say Mercedes Benz or Porch or some kind of brand that has contacted you. And ask you to shoot a car. Let's not dive into what car it is at the moment, but they ask you to shoot a car. First thing you do, you have to ask what the car is because it will define a lot of things or a lot of decisions that you will take in this lesson to define what you're going to do. For example, Porsche has asked you to shoot a nine 11th. A 9/11 for those who don't know, which is weird because if you are watching this, you love cars or you like cars, 9/11 is a sports car. We have now an idea of what it should encompass or your shooting should show. What do I mean by this? If you are shooting a sports car, you will be shooting in I'm going to call it a racing spot, something that looks like a track or that could be used to drag race or could be used to drift, or something that is sporty. So it makes sense to shoot the car there. I'm going to give you an example that makes absolutely no sense, so you understand why it's important to do this. Imagine you have the same 911, but you will shoot the car in the sand. It doesn't make sense. You're going to get the car stuck. It won't look right because that car is not supposed to be there unless you are talking about the 911 that car. But the normal 9/11, it won't make sense to see the car in that environment. So we always define the environment first. Of course, maybe 99% of the cars we should also have to work as a daily driver. The 9/11 is a sports car, but of course, can be driven in a city or it can be driven in a park or something like that. So we define the first concept is a racing spot, and then of course, the normal spots where you can take the car. Talking about this. Why am I making this such a big deal because if you have, let's say, land rover defender or something like that, it makes much more sense to put the car in the sand, put the car in mud if you're allowed to because some brands don't want you to. So you have to go within your limits to put the car where they let you. Of course, again, a land rover defender is also a city car. So you can take it obviously in the middle of the city with the lights, if it's at night, et cetera, et cetera, et cetera. But in my mind, you always have to do the specific shots for each type of car. If you know what I mean, Yeah. For example, sports car. I've already told you a racing spot, if it's like a jeep, sand dunes, mud, all of that works. If it's like Sedan, maybe make more shots in the city because it's what it's meant for. If for example, a sports car slash convertible, you can do like near the beach with the top down. What is important here is that the scenery makes sense with the specific type of car you shoot you are shooting. Second consideration that you have to do is when are you going to shoot? For example, let's continue with the 9/11. What I was going to say is next consideration is the time of day. For example, Golden Hour, as you know, as a photographer, it always works. Yeah. I agree. I can't disagree. I agree. But I have to say that it works better with a sports car than with a normal sedan or a minivan, right? A sports car asks for a dramatic shot a sedan not so much. Asks for a more sober, more elegant. If it's a luxury sedan, asks for a more luxury shot and not such a dramatic shot with maybe clouds and the sun shining through a very yellow environment, et cetera et cetera, et cetera. So not only the location has to make sense, but also the time of day has to make sense. At night, a sports car makes sense. An makes sense. For me, an off road vehicle, not so much. Not that I wouldn't do, but I would not focus my energy on shooting it at night. I have done some shots at night with some off road vehicles that are a bit out there, like the four by four squared by Mercedes. But In my mind, they are still a bit urban vehicles. So yeah, it makes sense. So you don't have to justify to anyone. You have to justify to yourself if it makes sense or not, and Y. If you can say, Okay, this makes sense with this car, it will make a great shot. Then you just have to think about it and produce it. And that's the next part of this video. First thing, gear. For cars, you don't need the most expensive gear, the most fast linens, the most megapixel camera. It's not necessary. It depends on what your client wants to do with the shots. And from what my experience says, about 80% of the shots are for social media usage. So a normal, I'm going to call it normal camera, 24 megapixel. It works perfect. You don't end up with massive rows that take up all your space. You can have a faster shooting camera. Gear is not that important when shooting cars. Of course, it has to capture all details. But I'm going to go ahead and say, lighting is more important, which is gear and editing the car to make all those details pop. But that will be the next video. I hear we'll focus on lights. Lighting is important not only in the night, which would make sense. But also during the day, because you want to emphasize certain aspects of your car. Maybe for example, that car has some very defined side lines. For example, BMWs, recent BMWs have very, very, very, very defined lines that make them I say they stand out. I'm not sure if it's a good thing or not. That's up to discussion, but they make very strong angles in the car. What does that mean? That means that with the right lighting, and editing, but in this moment, the right lighting, you can show it more. If it makes sense. You can make them pop. You can make them stand out more. For example, let's imagine you have a crease in the middle of the door. It comes like this and then it goes inside. You can make them pop if you have the light from top. It makes sense because the top will shine, the bottom part will be in the shadows, so it will make that crease pop. So it's all about a game of lights, and this sounded like a movie title. So yeah. But it is a game of lights and understanding where best to put the light. I'm not going to go into too much detail because this honestly is something that I think every photographer should try trial and error and learn what works best for them. What works best for me may not be what you like and vice versa. So I think this is a part of the photography, which is the creative This is what you want to show that is very important and very personal. That makes you, the photographer as you your name here. So this is very important that you learn by yourself. You probably already know how to work with lights, since this is a medium to advanced course, but it's very important that you find out how to use them with cars. Emphasize creases, highlight certain parts, certain parts that not ty, but put in the dark, that make more sense in the dark. So that's something you will learn with time to make your shots better. Another very important thing is the use of a polarizer filter. Lot of photographers in cars love to use polarizer filter. And what does it do? It removes the reflections from your car, and it also enhances a bit the color, nothing that can't be done in post processing. I'm talking about specifically enhancing the color, but there are some photographers that love to remove the reflections of the car. This is one of those things that I was telling you that me as a photographer, I don't use polarizer filter. I do have one. I do take them in my bag from time to time, I do use them very rarely, but I do use them, but I prefer to control if possible and when not possible filter. But I prefer to control if possible the reflections that hit the car that I'm shooting. What does this mean? For example, let's say you are shooting the car from an angle, that you can see the reflection of a window, and I don't want to see the reflection of that window. I can move the car, I can move my point of view shooting. I can do several things to remove that window from the reflection without needing to use the polarizer. And that's my preferred way of working. Of course, using the polarizer as nothing bad to it. Some people argue that adding glass in front of your glass from the lens decreases quality by a bit. Honestly, I can say that I find that it's true. I'm sorry. T all the photographers that think so. But if the filter is clean, the lens is clean, there's no smudging, there's no dust, there's nothing. I don't see why it should decrease the quality of your image. Of course, there are other considerations to have when dealing with this because of the diffraction and refraction and stuff ending in action to do with glass. But from my experience, if it changes, it's so so little that it makes no difference, and what you gain from the filter, it's much more important than what you lose, if it makes sense. So that's the gear necessary. Now, setting up the car, there are some basic medium and are setups for a car? I will say it this way. I think it's more correct. Some basic and medium things will be like, are the wheel straight? Do you want them straight? Maybe you want them turning? What are you going to do? Are you going to shoot stop? Are you going to not moving? Are you going to shoot a penning, meaning you are stopped, the photographer is stationary. But the car is moving. Are you going to do rolling shots? The photographer is moving along with the car? Be it in another car or something like that, that's what you got to think about when doing your shots because in some situations, you can't do them. For example, the most obvious one is if I'm shooting on the highway, I can't have a car shooting on the highway stop or stationary, at least in Portugal, it's a crime, so we can do. If I'm shooting on the bridge, I can't have the car stationary on the bridge, it's illegal. So unless the city has given you access and to do those kinds of things, it's illegal, so you can't do that. So you got to think about, if you want the car stationary, maybe take it to a car park, maybe take it to somewhere that makes sense, and should there the stationary shots. Maybe the panning shots you do, and this is a personal tip. Always have the photographer yourself. Inside the corner, not outside. It's much easier to be stopped inside the corner and the car going around you than being on the outside. Why? Because the car will move much less in terms of distance to the photographer when it's doing the corner around you. If it's doing the corner and you are on the outside, the car will be changing distance to you all the time. So it's much harder to do a panning in that situation. So always try to be on the inside of the curve. Rolling shots Maybe the road allows it. Maybe it doesn't. I've been in spectacular roads, that you can't do rolling shots because you can't have the cars side by side. For example, you want to do a rolling shot of three quarters of the car, you can't or the side of the car, you can't because there is no space. I remember a specific road that I would love to shoot, if some day they'll allow me. Injurs north of Portugal, that I'll call it a single direction road, that it's very tight, but it's green on both sides. The road is new. Would look awesome, doing some rolling shots there, but unfortunately, physics doesn't allow it. So yeah, you got to think about that. Then also important the angles, Which angles are you doing? Me, personally, I love doing low angles, sitting on the ground and shooting the car upwards. So I have a stand to the car. It makes the car more important, let's say, than shooting from up down. I also love shooting. Up down. But my preferred angle is from the down up. It's it's one angle that I always do. And then you have the basic angles, let's say, shooting the rims from straight onwards. Yeah. You have shooting the side of the car, shooting the front of the car, the back of the car, and shooting the three quarters of the car. These are the basic ones that I never miss in a shoot. The other ones, it's kind of based on feeling. For example, if I'm shooting the Mercedes four by four squares, it's a very tall car. It's awesome to sit low on the ground or put your camera on the ground and shoot up it's awesome to see the What that shot will show you and the size of that car. If it's a sports car, maybe low down isn't as much impactful as in four by four square, of course. But I will still do it. It's a very nice angle to put some stands on the car. One especially important consideration to have is, if you're shooting the front, the size, three quarters of the car, keep in mind something. If you are shooting a little bit from above or a little bit from below, you will always have kind of a distortion to the car. You want to avoid that distortion at least in the basic essential shots. So what do you do? For example, let's imagine the car as 1.2 meters in height. I'm not measuring the cars when I'm shooting, of course, but it's just for explaining purposes. Let's imagine it as 1.2 meters in night. What you do is shoot from 60 centimeters innit, meaning you shoot from half the height of the car. Why? Because that way, you won't have any distortion of the car, and it will look right. It won't look like it's been stretched in any way. So it's very important. At least the closer you are, the the more important this tip is. If you're shooting, let's say 24 millimeters. It's very important. If you're shooting at 300, maybe not so much. But if you are close to the car, it's very important that you put the camera in the middle of the height of the car, so it doesn't look stretched or bent or something like that because lenses tend to distort near the edges. And if you shoot something from an angle, it will distort that it makes sense to our eyes because we, as people understand photography, but it doesn't make sense when it's for use on a social network or maybe even print or something like that. Then you after you have those essential angles that I've talked about, the side front back and three quarters for me, are the essentials. Never do a session without doing those, then you can let your creative side flow and all the angles you want. I try to always make up angles every new session I do. So in the next one, I remember Wow, that angle worked last session, so let's do it again. So yeah, this is the lesson about shooting cars like a pro. And yeah, I hope you liked it. I hope it was helpful for you. Any questions? Any doubts, don't forget, leave them below. Next lesson will be about editing the shots you took in this lesson, by learning what you learned in this lesson, by doing what you learned in this lesson. So next lesson, editing. So see you then. 3. Transforming Car Photos: Advanced Editing Like a Pro: Hello. Welcome to the lesson about editing your shots that you learned on the lesson before. And by now, you should know how to shoot a car like a pro. Now let's edit like a pro. First consideration, it depends on what your client wants. There are clients that require that the colors are perfect. So in those types of shots, you can't mess with the colors. You can enhance them a bit, make them pop, but you can't change the colors. There are those clients or those types of shots that the client doesn't really care if the color is right or not. Because if you are talking about color being right, if a person has an iPhone and a person has a Samsung phone, and the other person sees the same shot on their LG screen, and another person sees on their tablet, which is an Azure or ***, all of those people will see different color. Y, not different colors, but different shades of the same color. Why, because not all monitors or not all screens are calibrated the same. So it's almost, I would say, impossible to have the right color on the photography, right. I can have red. I can have the screen that shows more red. I can have a screen that shows less red. I can have a screen that takes a bit of yellow and makes it more orange. But I can't control that. So I can't control where people will consume my photography. So there is amount you can edit without changing the color on your side, of course, and you can color correct it, and all of that. If you shoot with a color checker, it's easy to have the real color in your shot. But the consumer watches that on a screen that is badly calibrated, he will still see the color wrong. So it's kind of important. But what I'm telling you is in this part, editing, and keeping the color red or editing the car and make the color, for example, more orange because you edited the photo to make it look like a sunset. So the car is a bit more orange than red. So yeah, there are those two types of shots, and that is something you have to know before you start editing, talk to your client and ask them and try to understand what they want from your work. Now, let's not touch on the color side. That's done. Is important when editing a car like a prom. What are the elements that make a difference in a car. If I say, I have two of the same c, I have two Volkswagen golfs side by side, same color. What makes a difference from one to another? I immediately think of Rams and maybe if it has a spoiler or something like that. What I mean by this is, you have to know what makes a difference in a car so you can enhance those features. For me, Rams are essential. They always change the look of a car completely. If you have a car let's say a sedan, which is a normal car, not a sports car. It's a normal car. Let's say you have a sedan. You have 17 inch rims, and then you change them to nineteenths or 20s. The look of the same car, same color, same everything, just with different rims, will change everything. That's why people spend thousands of dollars on rims. RMs are one item you definitely have to highlight or make pop. Another one, and I've stoked this in the video before is the creases and the angles on a car. You, if you know how to edit portraits, you know about Dodge and Burn, and there are other things too, but if you know Dodge and Burn, it's a great way to highlight creases. The part that's in the shadow, you make it a little bit darker. The part that's in the light, you make a little bit more bright, let's say. That way, you will enhance or make that crease stronger. You won't change the car, but your photography will show that crease in a different way. It will pop more to your eye. You understand So that's a second consideration to make? Then what more is very, very important on a car. And from here, you can say, Oh, the grill is important. Oh, the brake lights are important. Oh, the head lights are important. All right. What I want you to do is as a photographer, pick the spots that are important to you that make a difference to you. And focus on them. Try to make them pop in my view, or in my opinion, Rams and the creases, the angles of the car are essential. And then, personally, I like to highlight, not highlight in terms of lighting, but make pop the headlights, brake lights, and depending on the car, if it has a wing, let's say, like AMG, GTR, Black series, it has a massive wing, so you have to make that pop more. Yeah. It has a massive front diffuser, so you have to make that pop a bit. What I mean a bit is don't overdo it. Don't make like the car is only about that. Yeah. I have to you have to go to a limit where it makes sense. If you go over that limit, it makes the car weird. So you have to always keep that in mind and make sense of the dole car as one unit and not as a separate pieces that you are doing here and there. For example, carbon fiber. If you shoot it, depending on the sunlight, of course, but it can be grayish black, and you can see the wave. That is something that it's very important to see the waves, especially in brands that go to the trouble. Trouble of matching the waves. So that's very important, and that's something you have to highlight. Maybe you make it pop by increasing exposure, by increasing clarity. It's up to you, but you have to take into account that it's very important. If a brand spends maybe millions of dollars to make sure those creases are aligned, you as a photographer, have to make sure you show that to your client. So that he can then show that to the people that are consuming your work via sharing or their catalog or something like that. So that's very important. Interiors are very important. Maybe specific parts of the interior are very important. It kind of depends on the car. For example, a sports car, maybe as quad tail pipes, that's important, maybe a Jeep as special suspension, that's important. It depends on what you're shooting and what your client wants. Of course, every single thing that I'm saying here has to be talked about first. What I do is always go to the client. Even if I have driven the car, even if I know the car, I have in one situation, owned a car and they asked me to shoot that car, and I went to the client and said, and ask what is what are the important features that you want to highlight in this car? What is important in this car? And they said, Oh, this has a special vinyl to commemorate the 50 years of something. It has a special badge. It it has special rims, or simply I like the grill, or I like the tailpipes, or I want to ilight this or that let them give you some pointers on what's important to them. It's very important that the client is satisfied with your work. So it's very important that you listen to them when it's time to highlight this, that. I like that. You don't want to highlight the old car, because if you light the whole car as a unit, you won't highlight anything. Does that make sense? If I light No, I have a model here that I'm going to show you. If I highlight this model car, all of it, I won't highlight the rims and I won't highlight the wing. I have to highlight certain parts so that they pop when they are in conjunction with all the rest. It pops because you have done something to it that separate separate it is not the right word, but separates it visually from the rest of the car, and you want to have some things, not everything. Everything will look like a mess, or it will look like you haven't done anything. You have just spent time highlighting a whole car, and that just makes it look like the whole car was brighter or you increase the clarity on the whole car, so you don't make any difference. I can give you some practical examples. I have shot several may bags at this time. One of them, it was a special edition may back, only 1150 in the whole world. And that's that particular one. I'm I'm not sure the other ones that, but that particular one had a special glass to drink. That came with a car. It was I'm not sure the process, but it was engraved with a special symbol of the car. So Even if you are shooting a car, sometimes you have to shoot something that is not the car. Don't make sense. I have to shoot. I think it was copper or gold. I don't want to mess it up. I have to shoot a glass that was engraved. I have to make sure that the engraving showed, which is another avache, but it did. Thank God. You have to make sure that is important for the client. I didn't ask the client what was important to him, I would never have seen those glasses. Why? Because they were stored. The car was for sale, obviously. But they were stored in I'm calling secret compartment. They were not put on the fridge yet. Does that make sense? So the client wanted the glasses to be seen but they were not yet in the fridge of the cars. So we had to talk, we had to put them, set up the whole thing and should. So, yeah, it's very important you talk to your client and ask what are the important things. And then those are the things that you should make pop up in your edit so that your work goes according exactly to your client's needs. So yeah. That's it. Of course, everything takes a lot of time, takes a lot of work, but I'll try to condense it a bit. Any questions? Feel free to ask and thanks for watching. I'll see you in the next one.