Sewing Swimwear Part 1 - Asymmetrical Top | Valeria Garala | Skillshare

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Sewing Swimwear Part 1 - Asymmetrical Top

teacher avatar Valeria Garala, Textile designer & pattern maker

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.



    • 2.

      Supplies Needed


    • 3.

      Print Sewing Pattern


    • 4.

      Cutting The Fabric


    • 5.

      Shoulder & Bust Darts


    • 6.

      Sewing Front and Back


    • 7.

      Elastic In Cleavage


    • 8.

      Underbust Bands


    • 9.

      Sewing Sides


    • 10.

      The Art of Topstitch


    • 11.

      Elastic Underbust


    • 12.

      The Grand Finale


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About This Class

Now that we've sewn our swimsuit bottom, do you want to add the top as its perfect match?

In this class we will learn the basic steps in creating your very own swimsuit, finishing with the TOP!

I will also share with you my best sewing tips so you can continue making projects more and more complex each time.

The skills we will learn in this class are:

- Adding bust darts to the front bodice of our top to create volume for our chest

- Practicing our topstiching skills

- Working with multiple fabric at the same time and sewing enclosed seams (hidden inside)

- Practicing our elastic sewing and tension (this time in a more reduce area to practice our fine movements)

- Choosing the direction of print we like best for our garment

For the class project we will sew together a swimsuit top which is asymmetrical (one shoulder) and double sided too! Practicing each step the skills taught in this class :)

If you haven't sewn at all before, I recommend you first take the "sewing basics" or "bikini brief" to get a hold of basic concepts troughout sewing. There you'll learn things we will use here such as direction of greatest stretch, seam allowances, printing the sewing pattern, retracing them, back tacking, to name a few.

And, if you have already sewn and would like to refine and tune your skills or learn new techniques in order to create more and more garments I'm sure you'll have a blast too!

Ready, set, SEW!

Intro Music By - Peyruis

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Valeria Garala

Textile designer & pattern maker


Hello & welcome !

I am a Textile and Surface Pattern designer based in Mexico City. I am passionate about all things DIY, reason why I sew my own clothing & lingerie, design prints to decorate my home and even make my own mylk, (DIY-ing even in the kitchen!)

My favorite thing about creating is defenitely the share the process & knowledge part, I can happily say that my most interesting finds and skills have been product of the sewing community sharing their knowledge and experience,  this is exactly why I want to share here with you the pure joy of creating and sewing your own wardrobe, specially your own lingerie.

For the latest works-in-progress & to see what i'm up to you can find me at my Instagram



&n... See full profile

Level: Intermediate

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1. Intro: Hello, everyone. Welcome to the second of these two part class yo create your swimsuit. In this class, we will review our top stitching. Enclosed seems, practice How to attach our elastic, working with directional prints And how to work with bust starts. So let's get started. 2. Supplies Needed: for this class we'll use the exact same material as in the previous class, which is the undie - two different types of fabric. I recommend one in solid and one with a print like this. We will also need elastic. I am using five millimeter wide regular elastic. But if you want, or if you have swimwear specific elastic, you're welcome to use it. That one is a white strip of rubber with silicon coating. We are going to use some sport lycra. My black one is chlorine resistant, but this type doesn't come in Fun Prints, is usually just solid colors. If you can't find chlorine resistant, the regular sports lycra, will work just fine. And here is my print up close. This is regular sport Lycra. If you find any fun prints, you're also welcome to use them. In both cases, remember to use 4-way stretch fabric, so let's move to the next lesson 3. Print Sewing Pattern: here on our class, below the project description to the right. Under create project. We have all our files needed for this class. I strongly recommend reading the "before starting". We also have our pattern to print at home and assemble, or our full scale pattern, which ever you choose Please retrace your pattern with your size so you don't have to print again the whole pattern, and this way with tracing paper. It will be easier for us to work with, so get all your pattern pieces ready and I'll see you in the next lesson. 4. Cutting The Fabric: I have here, My pieces already cut. This is back, and this is the lower band that goes around our body under the bust. And here, the front piece. We can identify it for the darts in here that when closed, we'll create the volume for the bust. Okay, now, very important before cutting. These pattern already includes the seam allowance, which is 3/8 of an inch, and you can see that the under bust band is smaller than the front and back bodies pieces. This is first, because of the darts. Once they are sewn, the measurement will reduce, and also because we needed to be a bit tighter to give support, please pay close attention to how you will cut your pieces in the print fabric. Here. I have them both in the same direction. But when cutting prints don't place them this way - Why, you may wonder? This is why. if we have both pieces placed this way with print facing up when sewing, one would be inside out, so you have to flip the backside, this way as you can see, we are creating a continious line for the asymmetrical cleavage from front to back and matching arm hole. We need to cut our pieces like this, mirroring each other for the print to be on the same side once we start sewing. Pay close attention And the under bust bands can be cut either way, since it's a rectangle, okay? - before cutting our pattern pieces, I want to show you this swimsuit. I made myself a while back. This is the same fabric combo I'll be using in the class, and it's also double sided, when doing these. My approach was to give it the direction of the print because every bird is standing in the same direction. So I thought that would make the most sense. But once done, I realized that I didn't quite like all of them being facing the same way. It's kind of predictable, and you can very clearly see the print rapport right here. So what I want to do for this new swimsuit, it is to place my pattern pieces in a more random manner, so it has a bit more movement instead of being completely straight. So it's more eye catching and keeps the eye traveling through the print. Contrary to how we can see it here repeating itself. This is also because it's quite a small rapport. I just wanted to share this because if you feel as I do about the prints that are too directional, you can make it work on your favor for the results you like, and also experiment with prints and placing them on the pattern, because we don't always have to follow the rules. So let's see how this turns out more randomly. Here I have my front piece already cut, and you can see how I tried to place the birds in a more diagonal way and to keep these couple of birds right here in this position - in the front piece. I have yet to cut and I placed the flower right in the dart. So it disappears once sewn, because I have the exact same one right up here This way, I feel it's not as straight, and I really liked that here, on my shoulder, I will have these one bird. So I kept it. - - Remember, these includes seam allowances. So we have to get very close to our pattern all the way. I want to take this moment also to praise tissue or tracing paper because look how easy it is to work with it. We can clearly see the print which let us decide how to play the pattern and get the result that we want that works for us most. It's valid if you like working directly with a regular pattern print. But I just wanted to show you this, since it's a great opportunity to learn this technique and have more say on how the print placing turns out. And we will have no regrets. Such as, Oh! I would have loved to have these part in this direction or such or something like that. With that, we are ready to cut our pieces. So let's go. - We now have both our print pieces and I'll be removing the pins from the back first to reveal without tissue paper how my print placing turned out - And, with the front, before removing pins, Let's mark the triangle for the darts with your scissors make little snippets on every line that marks the triangle. Mind the size of your snippet! Make sure it's small enough to fit inside the seam allowances. You don't want to cut past the seam allowances because that would be inside the actual garment area, just plays your scissors and do a little tiny cut. I love this couple right here and that They are upside down, bringing more movement to the print Here, matching shoulders together, we can see how both prints are facing the same way And for example, we have the white, which would be on the inside, but we're covering with the inner shell fabric in black, front and back. Let's remove the back for a bit and Mark the angle of the dart by flipping it and placing the pattern on top of it again matching them. And I like to keep it in place with pattern weights instead of pinning again right where we have these angle. Stick a pin through it, piercing both pattern and fabric. Do this on the other side too. and with a pencil or tailor's chalk do a little mark here. Keep in mind to do all markings on the wrong side of the fabric like we're doing here. - Now we will remove everything. Doing these markings will allow us to know exactly where and how to fold the dart in order to sew it. Here I am matching the snippets we did. Look how small they are! and we're matching them right sides together. So the darts remain on the inside of the garment. Otherwise, we would have the dart on the outside, so right sides together, matching snippets and pin together, fold it naturally to the point mark we did on the triangle angle. and pin that one too, like this, Our seam will go from this point to this snippet down here on the diagonal line. If you wish to trace the line from point to point with tailor's chalk or pencil, this is the time to do so. But, I recommend you practice creating these visual lines without marking them Here, both darts are on the inside, and that will create the volume and the space for the bust. Now, let's match together the shoulder seam placing them like this. And flipping the back on top of the front to have them right sides together and match the shoulder to pin it. I rather have the pins in this position because the seam will be done like this, so I feel it's easier to remove them this way, than parallel to the to the side seam. But however you feel more confident is the way to go. We will go to the machine now. Sew both darts and shoulders seams See you in the next lesson at the sewing machine. 5. Shoulder & Bust Darts: here on the machine. Let's start with the shoulder seam. We will sew a straight line with straight stitch leaving a seam allowance of 3/8 of an inch - I know very well that in my machine, from the needle to the edge of my presser foot I have the exact 3/8 of an inch. Here you can see that seam allowance guideline, which matches the edge of my presser. I think if you don't have these lines in your machine, it would be great to mark them on your own with a bit of tape or marker. So you always sew with straight allowances. Or you could also measure with a ruler the seam allowance from the edge of the fabric to center and marke it with pencil or tailor's chalk and follow that line. I will position my fabric on the edge of the presser, put the presser down, keep my threads to the back and make my 1st two stitches manually remove my first pin back tack at the beginning and end to secure this stitch. It's important to mention here that I will sew these with a straight stitch because it's not necessary to have a stretchy shoulder, because our shoulder won't elongate in that direction. - Remember from other classes, we've talked about how zig zag and stretch stitches are only necessary for contours of the body, which need to elongate, which isn't the case for our shoulder. So straight Stitch will work wonders also to give a bit more structure to the garment. - Here,, I'll help my fabric flow through by pulling my threads gently from behind. - It got stuck over here, not a big deal to worry about. But if this happens to you, it's better to stop and check and cut the threats to release the fabric from the jam start again. - Here, you can see the cut stitches - and its common! Don't stress about it! If you feel something going on with your machine, my best advice is to stop and figure out what's going on. Most of the time with just doing as I just did is enough. But if you continue sewing with the thread jammed, - It could hurt your machine, I re thread my machine and start again from where I stopped. again, back tacking to secure this stitch And back tack at the end. Could you tell the difference in sound from right now flowing correctly, to when it got stuck? - Now, we can see our seam from outside and inside. It stretches a bit without snapping. You could try it with every stitch and zig zag and see how that goes. - Or, if you like it more, and let me know if you do now, let's move to sewing the darts. Let's position our fabric and keep our threads to the back. What we're looking for is to place the fabric in such a way that the diagonal seem flows as straight as possible in the machine Without us moving it. Maybe you could think to place it straight and sew while moving it to reach the bottom snippet. But that would create a curve and therefore a baggie dart, which would look just weird. So do your best in sewing straight lines entering in a diagonal position. Imagine you have to follow this line, so with very few hand movements, the fabric can flow while sewing. If you want to mark directly in your fabric instead of imagining the line, do so. But my tip would be to try and get used to creating visual lines to work more intuitively. - Here. Let's place our fabric and let me do a close up Here, The needle is right behind the fabric, so my first stitch manually will be the one that pierces through the fabric first - I'll remove my pin. Please remember to never let the needle sew over the pins. I'll do my first stitch manually, and I won't back tack this time because it could cause baggy seams What we'll do is leave it as it is, tying a knot at the end, with the remains of the thread hanging here. - Since the darts will be on the inside of the garment, they won't unravel or be visible, lay it as flat as you can here, needle down, remove pin and continue to lay flat to the best of your ability while keeping the snippets matched, at the end, we will back tack. - Here is our dart. Do the other one and let me show you both of mine from the inside and the outside. These darts will create the volume for the bust because we're working with stretch fabric If you got a curvy or pointed art do not fret. When it stretches. Those tiny things will disappear and look flawless. That's why I love working with Stretch. So much - is so forgiving. Let's go to the table to see it in a bigger picture. Here we have our back, our front and sewn together. This is how we have both sides with the print on the same side, which is the exterior, and the insides, meaning the white ones touching each other on the inside. Let's do the same thing with the inner shell, black fabric, sewing, shoulder seam and darts. Then we will sew together both black and print fabric to handle them as one. So do your other fabric pieces and I'll meet you with them on the next lesson. 6. Sewing Front and Back: I have my black piece sewn together as we did with the print. And we will place it on the table, right sides up, meaning the back of the darts and inner seam allowances touching the table And on top we will place the print version right sides together with seems touching. The wrong side of the print is facing up. We will pin all these curves, which is the front and back cleavage and the arm hole. Right now we will leave, side seems alone - We will Onley pin, and sew this curve and this curve I'll pin, and we will sew 2 times these same curves first, to sew together both sides so we can handle them as one and second. Passing of stitches will be to attach the elastic to the curves. Right now, let's pin both pieces together, starting with the corners, and then matching the shoulder seems like this, - opening the seam allowances and pinning both sides from cleavage, and then from arm hole, to have the whole shoulder seam matching, opening the seam allowances and pinning both sides - fill out the curve with the pins, making sure both edges align on top of the other. - Here you will notice that we have a baggy piece and It's completely normal. That's the space for the bust created by the Darts. - We will sew this with zig zag stitch, both times, all these with 3/8 of an inch. Also yhisside. So let's go to the machine for our first zig zag stitches My fabric is right on the edge of the presser foot for our 3/8 of an inch, seam allowance I'll do my first couple of stitches manually, leaving my needle down and removing my pin. Remember to back tack at the beginning and end to secure the stitches. - Pay attention to your fabric on the edge of the 3/8 of an inch, even if it's at the curves. this will ensure your seam allowances are even throughout all your garment, - for example, I leave my needle down to lift my presser foot and readjust my fabric because the curve is getting closer. - I zoomed out to make it clearer. I got as close as I could to the yellow pin and now I remove it, holding firmly all of my fabric to make sure my matching seam allowances Don't move and are sewn together. I will probably help the fabric by pulling gently from behind to make it flow through, because in this area it has a lot of fabric from each side of the garment, plus the open seam allowances on each side, making it like 4 layers of fabric. So it will definitely need some help in that lumpiness. I'll put my needle down again and remove the other pin to continue sewing. - - Another curve approaches. Again, let's lift the presser foot while our needle is down to readjust the position of the fabric this way, - And again, because it's a pretty steep curve. Last of the stitches before the end, I'll hold it with my fingers to pull it to the right so it won't get caught or moved slightly to the left while sewing. This is to keep our seam allowances even throughout the whole garment and remember to back tack. This is our seam from the wrong side of the exterior, stretching perfectly without snapping. So let's do the other side, the arm hole. Same thing here, threats to the back. First, stitches manually remove pin and remember to back tack. I'll continue sewing the armhole the same way we did with the cleavage. - I'll see you at the table in our next lesson with both curves stitched together with zig zag - 7. Elastic In Cleavage : Now we have both our pieces sewn together to handle as one. These will make it easier to stitch the elastic in place instead of dealing with two separate fabric and the tension of the elastic at the same time. This is why we do two passes of sewing in the same area. I think this is safer to work with. Otherwise, a lot could go un stitched and cause more problems than fast results. So now for the elastic, this is the one I will be using. Regular elastic , five millimeters wide. There are swimsuit special ones made out of rubber and silicone coating. If you find or have those, that's great. If you can't find them in your city, these regular elastic will work perfectly. What we'll do now is on our sewing machine. Sew the elastic inside the seam allowance, not on top of the zig zag stitch that's already there. But inside the seam allowance right on the edge of that zig zag, all the way in Both curves don't measure. And cut the elastic beforehand stitch as you go, And as you need, let's go to the machine to stitch it with the same zig zag and all the way in these curves, and the other Before sewing we will match how wide the stitch is to how wide the elastic is. I removed my presser foot so you see more clearly, but you don't have to when you test in your machine. This width is too big. It's too close to the edge, making it more narrow and something like that could work. So do your wide test on your machine to match the elastic, and we will be ready to start sewing, Placing our fabric in the machine and the elastic on top. Inside the seam allowance And on the edge of the zig zag Stitch not on top. We will start sewing not right at the beginning, but from about here, now for the tension, Let's not stretch like this, neither too loose. It has to be flat, tight, but don't pull to stretch too hard I will also help by pulling gently from behind and remember to back tack. We don't have to stretch because this pattern and most lingerie and swimwear patterns don't have pattern ease because we need them to fit snugly and close to our body. If we add to that a lot of stretch elastic we're substracting even more space. To an already snug fit The garment will stretch enough along with the fabric and elastic on our body by laying the elastic flat. Go as slowly as you feel comfortable with, and stop the readjust as many times as you like to prevent it from moving and missing fabric or elastic at some stitches. Take a look here in the back to our elastic. Let's do this along all the curve from the armhole and cleavage. - As you can see, I'm continuously stopping to readjust This is exactly why we sew both sides of the fabric first, to handle as one. Because this tiny space of maneuver to stitch the elastic is already challenging enough - I need to help the machine and the fabric by pulling the fabric gently from behind. Keep in mind to check frequently that you are sewing just the two sides of the garment plus the elastic, and that nothing else is getting in there. - I present you The sewn elastic from both sides cut the remaining elastic and exactly the same way, sew the other curve. I'll see you with both curves already sewn and their elastics at the table. This is our top. And it's both sides with elastic, to turn it inside out. Put your hand in there between the two layers, reaching the other side - And feed your fingers with some fabric, pulling it to the other side. Pull gently just to get it out. Beware of snapping stitches. Now we have our double sided stop. Right sidesout. Next, we will sew the underbust band, which is the rectangles from our pattern. We need to cut 2 pieces from the print fabric, and 2 pieces from the solid inner fabric. In the next lesson, we will sew them to the bodice of the top. And we will get one step closer to finishing our beautiful swimsuit. See you at the next lesson 8. Underbust Bands: I have my four under bust bands cut right here, which will contour all our body. This is front and back, print side and front and back, solid color size. What we'll do now is right sides together we will put together the print side only for now - I removed the back for a bit and put print right sides together and pin them corners first. Since we have a curve here, due to the darts for the bust volume, you can stretch a bit to make both pieces match. I've pin corners, then center and then fill in the rest. Make sure you place the Dart towards this side seam, put as many pins as you feel comfortable working with - again dart to the side seam and stretch to make it fit. These will be sewn in zig zag with 3/8 of an inch seam allowance and doing the same with the solid color side, from the front bodice piece. Also darts to the side. Stretch a bit to make it match - in the same way we will pin the back bodice with its corresponding underbust bands, so we have all 4 pieces sewn to the bodice. Remember to do so with zig zag stitch on your sewing machine with 3/8 of an inch seam allowance, I'll do mine, and I'll see you in the machine with everything pinned here on my machine I'll put my threads to the back. Position the fabric in the edge of my presser foot for my seam allowance. - Needle down, remove the pin, and do my first stitches manually. Here you can see that I'm passing my darts facing up and the under bust Bands are facing down, so I'll start sewing this way - this is to prevent the darts from getting crooked. Since we are looking at them, we can handle everything that kind of moves. - Here we will start stretching so bodice and bands match. - I have my 4 underbust bands sewn to the bodice, front and back Before closing the sides, we will add elastic to that union between bands and bodice, we just sew I am a attachin the elastic to the white side so you can see more clearly what with the contrast what's going on But you can choose either the print side or the solid side. - Remember to do so in the back side and front side. - We will sew it the same way that we attached the previous elastic with the zig zag stitch in the seam allowance at the cleavage and armhole. Let's go do it and we'll come back to the table for me to show you how to close the sides - at my machine I'll position the garment with the darts facing up again and adding the elastic starting to sew from here I don't like to start from the very beginning because it gets stuck under here sometimes. So to reduce that risk, I'll start from a bit more into the garment. This is why we also do the first stitches manually and keep our threads in the back to pull them if needed. Now needle down, two manuals stitches. Remember not to stretch the elastic, just laying it flat Here, I will pull a bit to help. - Don't stretch the fabric either. Lay everything as flat as you can. - One side done. I'll add the elastic to the other side, which would be the back bodice, and I'll meet you in the next lesson for the next step. 9. Sewing Sides: - Okay, so we are almost done and we have ready our bodice with all the under bust bands sewn. And now I'll show you how to close the side seams, - Place the front bodice facing down meaning touching the table And on top the black bodice like this, Now lift the print side that is on top and hold together both solid color sides. So you are now holding only the 2 layers of fabric from the inner view, which is the black one. In this case, and pin this corner together add another pin in the middle and open the entire piece By matching right sites together to the print side like this, and pin the corner in these we will press the elastic towards the bottom edge and pin together the same with this seams pressing towards the bottom of the piece Fill in the middle with the pins and we will do the same with the other side To enclose the seams Placing our garment again like this and removing one print side hold right sides together The black pieces only and pin the corner - pin the middle and lift the bottom print to the top for it to match the other print side right sides together like this pin the corner, and the same applies with the elastic towards the bottom of the top. This creates a straight line that we will sew with straight stitch seam allowance same on here in both sides. Let's go to the sewing machine to sew this part. Same old here. Threads to the back, fabric on the 3/8 of an inch marking straight stitch. First 2 stitches manually and back tack. Here I get as close as I can to the pin. Remove it and pull the fabric gently from behind to help it in this lumpy area with all those fabric layers. You can also help your machine in this part by pulling from behind Lay it as flat as possible to sew as flowy as you can. - - Here, we have our straight stitch and we will turn it inside out - and, look like this, pretty neat. And if I stretch it, it still looks good. I did this zig zag sample on the other side, to show you why I always choose straight stitches for these seams if I stretch it. The stitches pop out - and I really dislike this result, but you can try either one and see for yourself which one you like best. This is our enclosed seam top, and i want to show you here what the top stitching will do for our garment in this area The top stitch will prevent the fabric from creeping out to the other side, keeping every fabric to its own side. So from the inside, I like to trim the seam allowance and elastic for it to be less bulky while sewing and also in the final garment. Be very careful in trimming inside the seam allowance We will top stitch all cleavage from front and back bodice and the arm hole. Besides, that tops teaching We will stitch together both views from each side, meaning joining the print fabric from the front with the solid fabric from the front together. - Same with the back to ensure each fabric stays in its place. Let's move to the next lesson, top stitching and then closing the bottom to have our garment finished. See you there 10. The Art of Topstitch: before starting our own top stitch. I want to show you one in my other sswimsuit I made and showed you earlier It's done with a zig zag stitch for it to stretch properly. We will start by trimming the excess seam allowance to make it easier for us to sew I will start on my shoulders seam from the armhole side, which joins together the back bodice with the front bodice. Here in my presser foot I have this kind of window, which I will use to guide my fabric in the top stitching First, I was guiding myself with the edge of the presser foot. But since I want my topstitch to be even closer to the edge of the garment, I'm reducing the distance from needle to the edge of the garment by moving it a bit to the left. If you don't have this kind of window, I recommend doing a tiny mark with tape, either on the present food or on the sewing machine to help you getting even distance between top stitch and edge, we are substracting here 1/8 of an inch. I'll do my first couple of stitches manually, leaving my needle down and press the fabric towards the left and the elastic on the inside towards the right. So it's resting right on the edge. I'll be stretching my fabric just a bit to flatten it and remove all lumpiness here And back tack. I'll pull gently here because we have both fabric and elastic. To help it flow - remember to leave your needle down every time you will readjust the position of your fabric to - Ensure stitches won't skip or move your fabric. - I am stretching the fabric again to get the elastic to the right side, on the fabric to the left side, so they both sit on the edge, pressing with my fingertips. Take a look here at our top stitch very close to the edge. neatly sewn, Make sure you are Only stretching to press both sides of the fabric to the edge. Not sewing while stretching, because that will create a wavy result. We are getting closer to the bottom of the armhole where we trim the elastic and seam allowance Since it's a bit bulky from all those layers, I will help it by flatten it with my fingers and pull it a bit from from both sides with my hands, one towards the back and the other towards me. Also sewing very slowly. I got very close to the seam. And now I am preparing myself from over here, making it flat and towards the edge. on flatten it to the left. Now, I can relax because we could manage, and I continue sewing as usual. Now that we're getting closer to the starting point of our top stitch, - we will sew a bit on top of it and back tack again to secure the stitch, you can see how, on the other side of the seam, my top stitch is complete. This is how yours is going to look once you finish top stitching both cleavage and armhole - - And we're done! This is pur top stitching for the top. - Here you can see I went a bit overboard with the back tacking and created this thread knot But I can just trim it and make it look better. Do yours on the other side and I'll see you on the next lesson 11. Elastic Underbust: - This is our garment with all the edges top stitched. It has to be close to the edge, but don't beat yourself up getting the closest ever. It's better to have a neat stitch a bit more separate to the edge than a crooked zig zag touching said edge Since this is a visible finish, let's try our best to make it as pretty as can be - now to pin both fabric from each side Let's sew together these seam allowances Here my hand is inside the garment between the 2 inner black sides. So I am holding the two front bodice pieces from each fabric, the print and the black one. I am pushing the solid color one to the back and the print to the side, so I only hold the seam allowances and we will sew on top of the elastic. Also, with the zig zag stitch inside the seam allowance - I don't want to sew the entire thing all around we will only sew a bit from the centre front bodice and a bit from the centre back bodice, holding both seam allowances together, okay? - what we'll do is match Both sides seams from print and black fabric and pin together, pinning the center and pinning the other side seam. - I will sew from this blue heart pin to the other blue heart pin, I will have more pins to ensure both views are sewn together. Make sure the edge of both sides align in his way. Let's do the same on the back bodice as shown - Now that we have all this pin together, let's sew in the machine. Remember to use zig zag stitch so we can stretch properly. - And back tack both at the beginning and end of each. I am guiding myself again with the window on my presser foot. to sew inside the seam allowance where the elastic is - I'll do the same old, 2 manual stitches - Remove my pin, and stay inside the seam allowance to do my stitches - Here, I'll pull a bit from behind to help it. It's very important to sew inside the seam allowance and don't pass to the left side. Inside the garment, Let's do this on both sides, and I'll see you at the table for our finishing touches on the last lesson 12. The Grand Finale: we are almost done, and I have here the entire garment with only, the bottom seam remaining, to finish I want this finishing to be the same as a top stitching on top of the cleavage and armhole. Now let's take a look at the inside of the garment. We can't fold it this way because the print would be visible on the black side We want to keep plain so we need to have an enclosed seem as well. This is how we'll do it. Matching both sides seems - we want them to be touching each other. We don't need to open the seems at this point, and match them by pinning down here. Closer, closer to the under bust seam we will fold the front bodice wrong sides together to the inside of the garment about 1 cm or 3/8 of an inch. I am actually eyeballing the measurement, but you could measure from edge to the center. 2 cm mark a line on make the edge of the garment reach that line for your enclosed seem to be 1 cm deep, the same way we will fold to the inside wrong sides together the inner black side to make them match at the seams. This way, we will have enclosed seams everywhere - and pin them together. The first is the hardest one. The rest are easier because the fabric already knows how we wanted to settle. So we'll keep on doing these around the entire piece to close the garment. - Remember to match the side seams neatly and keep going. You can stretch a beat to create a flat alignment, not a baggy one. This certainly would be easier if we pressed it with an iron - But since sports Lycra is full of spandex, ironing makes no difference since it leaves no mark nor keeps the fabric pressed. But know you could iron it in other woven fabric or ive you experiment and manage to iron Spandex - let me know your secrets, Please. - - Ready? This is the top all pinned at the bottom, ready to be sewn. We will topstitch as we have done before around the bottom, closer to the edge with a zig zag stitch - making sure fabric don't slip out of this fold If You rather have the pins in this position, It could also work, just know you will have to remove them a bit earlier so you don't sew on top of them With the needle, - - however you feel more comfortable That's how you should be working to ensure a better finishing of the garment. - Because remember, this is a visible top stitching, and we want it to be as pretty as possible. Remember, these will be sown with zig zag in order to stretch. Let's move to the machine for our final stitches. Same old are threads to the back, and I'll place the fabric again at the edge of the window in my presser foot starting from a side seam. Remove pin, needle down, and help the fabric flow by pulling from behind and back tack, stretch the fabric only to adjust, remember not to sew while stretching, look how I'm using my fingers to keep the layers in their place in this other side seem, Since it's bulky, I'm pulling a bit from behind sew as slowly or fast as you feel comfortable with. I always say the speed is a bit like driving if you're learning and not too familiar is better to start slowly and with practice, you'll pick up the pace, eventually. needle down and lift presser foot to readjust the bottom black fabric, which was slipping a bit to the left. Make sure all edges are placed property here near the end, we will flatten as much as we can And sew very slowly in these bulky area, remembering to back tack on top of the zig zag stitches from the beginning to ensure / secure the seam. We are done! Let's move to the table! Here we have our final garment from the solid color side, and from the print side, back, and front with the darts. while we wear it, It won't rest this wavy, because our own bodies will help it stretch. Remember, lingerie and swimwear patterns have a more snug fit for us to stretch it once wearing them - So this is it! you have finished your beautiful, asymmetrical, double sided, top swimsuit. Done! Thank you very much for watching, and congratulations on finishing your swim suit. If you have any questions, you can reach me here or on my instagram. And I would really appreciate if you leave a review here for me to know how I'm doing my explanations. Thank you again very much for watching and see you soon!