Sewing Projects | Loraine Vd Berg | Skillshare

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Sewing Projects

teacher avatar Loraine Vd Berg

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction The slow fashion shoulder bag

      1:53

    • 2.

      L1 The preparations

      1:50

    • 3.

      L2 The outer bias binding pockets

      3:14

    • 4.

      L3 The straps and the lining pockets

      3:04

    • 5.

      L4 The bias binding

      3:07

    • 6.

      L5 The top and bottom panels

      1:53

    • 7.

      L6 The lining

      1:57

    • 8.

      L7 The exposed zip pockets

      4:41

    • 9.

      L8 the top zip panels

      5:27

    • 10.

      L9 Attach the lining and put the strap on

      5:51

    • 11.

      The Zip Pouch L1 Preperations

      1:50

    • 12.

      L2 Sew the zip

      3:52

    • 13.

      L3 Attach the lining

      10:21

    • 14.

      L4 Sew the tabs and side seams

      7:47

    • 15.

      L5 Sew the binding

      5:54

    • 16.

      Design your own quilt pattern Introduction

      0:46

    • 17.

      L1 Draw the pattern

      1:55

    • 18.

      L2 Cut the fabric

      1:00

    • 19.

      L3 Sew the fabric pieces on the templates

      6:53

    • 20.

      L4 Prepare the blocks before attaching them

      1:56

    • 21.

      L5 Attach the blocks

      7:52

    • 22.

      L6 Bind the edges of the quilt

      11:49

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About This Class

In this sewing course, you will work on a variety of projects, each designed to enhance your skills and creativity. Here’s what you can expect:

Shoulder Bag: (Pdf pattern and Sewing guide downloadable).Create a unique shoulder bag by repurposing good-quality fabric from used clothing items, such as jeans, and combining it with new fabric. By the end of this project, you'll be able to construct a lined bag, sew an exposed zip pocket, attach straps and D-rings, and finish patch pockets with bias binding. You’ll also learn how to incorporate creative sewing techniques with fabric pieces and zippers. The bag features six pockets—two zippered and two open pockets on the outside, plus two open pockets inside—and is fully washable, making it perfect for travel. This project emphasizes recycling and slow fashion, using a pair of jeans that no longer fits and high-quality 100% cotton fabric to create a durable, long-lasting bag. By merging recycled and new materials, we support local fabric stores while promoting sustainability.

 All-Purpose Zip Pouch: Download and print the PDF pattern at actual size on A3 paper (29.7 cm x 42 cm). Follow the video instructions to sew this versatile pouch.

 Quilt Sample: Learn to design and sew a small simple quilt. This project includes creating a quilt block pattern and assembling the quilt from start to finish.

Meet Your Teacher

Hello, I'm Loraine, I am from Cape town in South Africa.

After 30+ years of professional sewing experience, I started to teach my own sewing courses at my studio. My students are beginners as well as experienced sewers of different age groups. Since 2020 I also teach my sewing courses online. I highly recommend a sewing course to young and old as sewing can be a hobby as well as give you the chance to earn an income.

 

See full profile

Level: Intermediate

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Transcripts

1. Introduction The slow fashion shoulder bag: Hi, welcome to this live fashion shoulder back cause of easy. So Academy. My name is load line and I'm going to take you step-by-step through this course. By the end of this course, you should be able to sell a line to protect a strep. Dealing straps, pockets with bias binding finishing, exposed sub pockets, and also how to put stats in the straps. This is what the bank looks like on the inside. The supplies that you need. A used loading item like genes, new cotton fabric, ion on bad thing thread. I did 12th universal needle. I did 12 or 9014 top stitching needle, 45 centimeters, opening up to 15 centimeters. Apps for the exposed sub pockets to four centimeter dealings, and to eight millimeter or ten millimeters stats, which will be optional. When you buy this EPS. Keep in mind that your steps are going to be visible, such as yourselves, to fit in with the color of your bag. Use the good fabric pieces of a used item to be sure that your back will last a long time. The reason why we combine the used fabric with new fabric is because we still need to support our fabric stores. You can use to spools of normal thread for the top stitching. Instead of buying top stitch thread, you can also try two different colors to get a different look for your top stitching. I would like to encourage you to ask if you have any questions, as I will be here to support you all the way. Enjoy your sewing. 2. L1 The preparations: Hi, I'm Laura. I'm from easy sell Academy. In this course, you make the slow fashion shoulder back. The meaning of slow fashion is to produce clothing or other creative seven items which consume time to produce a quality material that will last a long time. And is in contrast with first version that is low quality mass production that quickly end up in landfills. In this project, I use a pair of jeans that is still in good condition but doesn't fit anymore. And I also bought good-quality 100% cotton fabric to combine it with pieces of the bass part of the US item to ensure that this bag will last a long time. And this way, we still support our fabric stores and at the same time, keep our good-quality used loading in the recycled process. In lecture one, you do the preparations. Now not the pattern. Makes sure that your printer is say to print actual size and print it on I4. The seam allowance for this project is one centimeter and is included in all the pattern pieces. Measure that this block of four centimeter by four centimeter to be sure that your pattern is printed the correct size. Got your pattern pieces out, that the step button pieces together to form one long pattern piece and do the same with the other pieces. Antibonding pieces. Cut the pieces out on your fabric and packed in as indicated in lecture to you, we'll start with the sodium. 3. L2 The outer bias binding pockets: In lecture to you Mike, the outer eyes binding pockets. Got the piece of your upcycled fabric. I'd centimeters wide and then cut four pieces of your other fabric, five centimeters wide. But the upcycled fabric with the wrong side down on the one side of the batting. It should be longer than the button at the top and bottom. Burnett and solid on the edges of the baton. And cut the extra pieces of open this up using one side of the step at a time. A piece of this up a little bit longer than the baton and set this up on the edge of the fabric piece with the right side facing up. Then put a piece of fabric onto this up with the right side down. The edges should line up Burnett and then soured against the teeth of the SERP. Fold the fabric piece over and sew it on the row h. Put another piece of the Zip onto the fabric. The edges should line up Burnett and then sew it on the edge. Then put another piece of fabric with the right side down onto the set. The edges should line up, put pins in and sell it next to the teeth of the SERP. Fold the fabric over and sew it on the row, age. Then pen another piece of this up on the edge of the fabric and soured on the edge. Then carry on like this. But pending another piece of fabric onto the set, keep in mind that you rotate the contrast colors of the fabric pieces solid on the edge of the fabric over and so it under rho H, then penance. So another piece of this up on the edge of the fabric. Now open the last piece of fabric onto this up. And so it next to the teeth of the setup for the fabric over IN the pocket on the fabric side. So the batting around the edges to attach it to the fabric and then cut the extra pieces of fabric of the drum, the extra pieces of the fabric around the edges of the bat in the back and front view of your pocket will look like this. On my other pocket, I used the fly front of the genes with the buttons on. I might have a few loops that I've put around the buttons. Then I use pieces of the leftover fabric to cover the rest of the baton to make this bucket. I want you to think out of the box and say your own creation on the baton. Then cover the button with a piece of pipe and iron them. In lecture three, you will make this trap. And the D ring straps. 4. L3 The straps and the lining pockets: This is Lecture three. In this lecture, you're going to say this trap, that eating straps and the lining pockets. You need this trap piece, the batting piece, and also the cover piece on the wrong side of the strap, throw a line lengthwise two centimeter from the age of the strap. And I in the batting against this line for the sides of the strap over the button and press it. Mark a line in the middle of the piece on the wrong side of the fabric and fall decides to the middle mark line and place it, place the color piece on the open side of the step. See that it lines up in the middle of the step and Punnett. The institute all around one millimeter from the edge. Now do exactly the same with the D-ring straps. Mark the two centimeter lines on the wrong side of the outer pieces. Then IN the baton, on the sides over the baton and praise. Then fault the sides of the color pieces to the wrong side and press cover the opening of the dating steps with the cover pieces wrong sides together. See that it lines up in the middle and then solid around the edges. But the steps through the dealings and fold them double, then stitch them on the road sides, on the wrong side of the fabric. Mock one centimeter lines lengthwise from the H's on the top and bottom of the sub-tabs, then fault is sides of the sub-tabs in by one centimeter and praise them. All the tabs double with the right sides onto each other and pin them. Then stitching on the lines, then the tabs inside out and turn out the corners. Place name now applies the dealing steps in the middle of the curve on the right side of the upper panels. And then sew it on the edge. Plus the bias binding pocket out to add ly pieces with right sides together. Put pins in the inside them on the sides, then the inside out and praise this seems remembered to put piper on the button so that you do not bend. A bad thing. Also that the glue doesn't land on your ion on the experts to pocket. I am the baton to the top. On the wrong side of the fabric. They draw the lines from the pattern onto the button. These lines should be straight and the measurements should be accurate. Otherwise, the opening where you go sip should go in, will be skewed. In lecture four, you will make the bias binding. 5. L4 The bias binding: This is lecture for now you're going to start the bias binding and attach the outer pockets to the middle panels of the bag. Measure the curved line of the pocket and act three centimeter extra to make sure you're binding will fit the pockets. You can turn it off the subunit to the pockets, right? This measurement down. Fold the fabric for the binding over on the bias, then folded double. Then cut a piece of fabric at least 12 to 13 centimeters wide, got a straight line next to the faults. To ensure a straight line, you're really should line up at the top fault. Keep your fingers away from the blight. Older cutters straight up, then press down on the cutter as well as on the ruler. Make sure that you press hard enough to cut all the layers at once and keep the blight next to your two wild-card tin. Make sure that your ruler is lined up on the edge of the fabric. Then cut to pieces of binding on the bias by five centimeter wide. As your fabric is double. This will give you four pieces of bias binding. For the bias by nib with the wrong sides together and press them. When you place the bias binding onto the pocket, earth, ins should be a little bit longer at the top. Then the row Hs of the bias binding to the wrong side of the pocket pieces against the curve. And then soured with a seven millimeter seam allowance for the bias binding to the outside of the pockets. Burnett and sell it on the edge. Plus the metal panels of the outer fabric with the right sides together, put pins in. And so the sides with a one centimeter seam allowance. Then it inside out and place the seams open. Do a top stitching on both sides of the same. Plus the bias binding pockets with the wrong side down and fold them over in the center. Now applies the fault on the stitch line of the scene. The pocket implies and stitch it on the sides. Do the same with the other pocket on the other side. Got it ends at the top in line with the pocket age. In lecture five, you will attach the top and bottom pieces to this panel. 6. L5 The top and bottom panels: This is Lecture five. Now you're going to sell the top and bottom pieces of your back. I use the recycled fabric for the top and bottom panels of my bag. Place the top pieces with the right sides together. So it with a one centimeter seam allowance and place the seams open. Do the top stitching on both sides of the same the same width as on the middle panel. But the top is with the right side on the outside of the middle panel and stitch it with a one centimeter similar ones for the top panel upwards and press the seam to the top. Top stitching on the same stitch, the bottom panels together. The seams open and do the top stitching on both sides. Then the bottom panel and the middle panel with right sides together. The scenes should be exactly onto each other. With a one centimeter seam allowance. The bottom panel with the same down and press it, then do a top stitching on the scene. When the bottom of the bag with the right sides together, the inside of it with a one centimeter seam allowance. Then the bag inside out and place the same for the same to one side and do a top stitching on the same fault. The box corners in the bottom seems should be in the middle. And so the corners with a one centimeter seam allowance. In lecture six, you will sell the lining of the bag. 7. L6 The lining: Lecture six. Now you can decide the lining of the bag. Place the metal panels with right sides together, put pins in. And so the sides with a one centimeter seam allowance. Then it inside out and place the seams open. Do a top stitching on both sides of the same. Place. The bias binding pockets with the wrong side down. Fold them in the center and place the fall under stitch line of the same pen the pocket implies and stitch it on the sides. The same with the other pocket. On the other side. Got the ends at the top plus the top panels with right sides together. Bend them and do the same with the bottom panels. Then. So the one centimeter seam allowance on both sides of them. Press the seams open and do the top stitching on both sides of the seams. That top and bottom panels to the middle panel, with the right sides to be there. The seams should line up with each other. And so then with a one centimeter seam allowance. But keep a piece open on the one side, about 20 centimeters at the bottom. Same default, the bag inside out lighter on the bottom, same with a one centimeter seam allowance for the box corners in it. And so the corners with a one centimeter seam allowance. In lecture seven, you make the exposed pockets on the sides of the back. 8. L7 The exposed zip pockets: Lecture seven. Now you're going to make the exposed sub pockets. You're going to put the exposed the pockets on the sides of the back, light the back flat on the table upside down with the side facing up. Measure four centimeter from the top seam. Draw a straight line. This will be your mark in line with the opening of the exposed step will be if you don't have this thick seam of the denim in the top panel, then you can make your pocket a little bit longer and put it in the middle of this top panel. Mark the center of the side panels of the bag. The middle marked line on the pocket piece should be in line with this line that you have drawn in. The pocket panels double with the wrong sides together, plus the pockets with a fault on the middle marks. In place. The metal lines on the bad things should be in line with a four centimeter line. When the other pocket to the other side of the bag. The center line and to the stitches in the corners. Be careful not to cut into the stitches. Then followed the pocket to the inside through the opening and preset stitch the top and bottom seams of the opening onto the pocket panel. Slice this up in the opening. Make sure that the teeth of this app will be in the middle of the eye-opening when you pronate, so that the edges of the pocket be the same distance from the date of this. On the top and bottom. Do and talking about three millimeters from the ages of the opening to keep this up in place so that you can take the pins out before you start stitching. Otherwise, the edges can move away. When you take your pins out. The inside about one millimeter from the edge all around. With this stitch length on three. Make this shorter if necessary, to shorten this up. So a stopper, the zigzag around the coil or the teeth of your SIP. About six times stitch length on Sierra. Then you can cut it next to the stopper. So the outside lines, like saving a wealth, pocket, fault, the pocket, double and stitch the row sites to get that, place the pocket from the outside. In lecture eight, you saw the top panel of the bag. 9. L8 the top zip panels: Lecture. Right? Now you're going to say the top zip panels overlook the edges of the top and lining pieces for this panel's footprints in the middle of the panels and fold them over. Then mark the fabric on the h's at the pins so that you have the middle markings mark the center of this app. On both sides. These marks on this zip should line up with the middle markings of the panels when you put them together. When one side of the zip and the one outside panel onto each other, muddle marks should line up and the right sides of the SEP and the panel should be against each other. When aligning piece to the wrong side of the SEP, the edges should line up. The outer and the lining pieces should be aligned. Now you have to bend the other two pieces to the other side of this app. They all have to line up. So make sure that all the center marks or pinned onto each other. Mach one centimeter from the H's on both the panels on this side, the inside the same between the marks with a one centimeter seam allowance for the sides of the panels against the one centimeter markings to the wrong side and pin them for the outer and lining panels with the wrong sides onto each other and bending them to be there with an edge stitch. But the zip ends into the tabs and sell it on the open edge. Do it top stitching on both the zip seems by selling a food stitch. Now you're going to attach the SIP panels to the lining, measured 2.5 centimeter from the same line on the top panel. Then draw a straight line. The inside of the lining. The right side down fault, there's a panel tuple plus the SIP panel under marked line. The middle of the panel should be on the same line of the lining. Happens in to keep it on the line. The ruler out and stitch it with a one centimeter seam allowance. Then the lining over, and then draw the 2.5 centimeter line on the top panel of the other side. Then put in the lining and open this up for the panel tuple with the wrong side together. Place it on the line with the middle mark on the scene. And Burnett, like the ruler out and sell it with a one centimeter seam allowance. Fault the panels down. And In2 input pins in and do a top stitching one centimeter from the faults. At this side of the bed, mocha line, two centimeter down from the top on the right side of the fabric, plus the upper edges of the Terps Against the lines and do the lining on the previous stitching line. In lecture nine, you will attach the lining to the outer piece of your bag and put the straps on and then finish your back. 10. L9 Attach the lining and put the strap on: Lecture nine. You're going to attach the lining at the outer piece of your bag and then put the strap on and finish your back. Then the lining inside out plus the outer piece of your bag into the lining with the rod sides facing each other. But this seems exactly onto each other. The dating straps should lie between the two layers and then painted all around the Institute with a one centimeter seam allowance. Then the bag inside out. Folded seam allowance at the opening to the inside. The faults should line up together on the folded edges and put the lining into the bag. This is what it looks like when this up is closed. Brace the bonus out at the bottom, then the bottom seams of the lining and the outer panel together. And then sew them together by hand stitching on the same lines, starting on the inside and also on the inside. And use matching thread to ensure the stitches are invisible. Place the top seam and Punnett. Do it top stitching one centimeter from the same line. This is what the path looks like on the inside. Fault, the ends of the strap one centimeter to the wrong side. And praise. Put this trap in through the directions, then fold them 3.5 centimeter to the wrong side, bend them and solve it on the edge. The tools that are used to put the stats in a hammer, all like the one in the picture. The ten millimeter install two of the round by stools. One side of the install two should have a hole in it to fit over the button in the center of the round bias and to ten millimeters stats. Now you can put the rabbits in NYC, the holes for the rivets with the O in the middle between the two faults. But this, that through the halls and put the cap on. But one of the buys tools at the bottom, the smooth side should face up. Now put the other buys on top with the smooth side facing down onto the stat. Boot, the install two with the whole facing down over the button on the bias too. Then use the hammer, tap, the stat in. You have now come to the end of this course. Thank you for leaving a review. And I wish you plenty miles of happy selling. Lookout for more causes of easy Side Academy. 11. The Zip Pouch L1 Preperations: In this project, you make the multipurpose zip pouch. Lecture one will be the preparations. Print your pattern on actual size paper size three, measure the square on the right top corner to see if your printing is the correct size. Keep the grain line of the pattern pieces on the grain of your fabric. And the place on fold side of your pattern should be on the fold of your fabric. You have to fold your fabric, Double the pattern pieces out on the fabric and iron on batting as indicated on the pieces. See the pattern page one for the requirements that you need for this project. Sew the outer pieces together with a 1 centimeter seam allowance. Fold the seams to the bottom panel and press on the batting onto the back of the outer piece. Remember to cover the batting with Piper to prevent the glue to stick to your iron. Then to a top stitching on the seams on the wrong side of the binding pieces. Draw a line in the length, fold the outer edges to the line and press. Then fold the double with wrong sides together and press get yourself an open end Ip at least 5 centimeters longer than the measurement of the pouch. This will make the saving so much easier as you can open the zip completely and the thickness of the stoppers and the zipper will not be a problem at the same line. 12. L2 Sew the zip: To the place the zip with the right side on the top edge. The outer fabric should face the ends of the zip should be longer, about the same amount on each side pin the edge of the zip to line up with the edge of the fabric. Note the direction of the pins. Sew it on the edge to keep the Sip in place. But do not sew it near the teeth of the Ip as you still need to put the lining in, keep the zip closed. And fold the other edge of the pouch towards the zip with right sides together. See that the sides line up and put a pen in. Do the same on the other side, pin the rest of the zip in place. 13. L3 Attach the lining: Lecture three. Attach the lining. Open the zip. Put the normal zip foot in your machine. Place the lining onto the outer piece with right sides together. And pin it in place so it with the up put against the teeth of the up. Remembered the back stitch. Turn it inside out. Praise the seams away from the set and put puns in. Put the normal sewing foot in the machine. Do a top stitching with the side of the foot on the fold of the sea. Then sew a foot stitch. Si, the agent should land, then swim with a tacking stitch on the edge. 14. L4 Sew the tabs and side seams: Lecture four. So the tabs and side seams, close this up, fold the tabs lengthwise, double with wrong sides together and press, then fold them over with the wrong side out. The edges should line up, burn them, and sew it with a 1 centimeter seam allowance on the sides. Turn the tabs inside out, turn the corners out and praise them. Close then by selling on the edge the center of the bottom panel. Then fold the tab. Double place the fold to the center mark on the right side of the pouch and pin the tab in place. Do the same on the other side, starting at the closed side of the zip pen, the top and bottom sides of the pouch onto each other before you pin the other side. Open the up far enough to turn the pouch inside out later, start to pin at both corners. And then in between this way, the teeth of the up will end up next to each other. Sew them with a one centimetre seam allowance. When you get to the teeth of the turn the wheel by hand towards you. If your needle catches the teeth, move the fabric slightly forward, but do not lift the foot up, otherwise your sea will not be in a straight line. Cut the up against the edge of the fabric with your piper scissors. 15. L5 Sew the binding: Five, Sew the binding. To sew the binding, turn the pouch with the bottom upwards. Open the one side of the binding and line it up with the edge of the fabric burnt. Note that I use longer pieces of binding, but the pieces of the pattern will be the correct length. Then sew it with a 1 centimeter seam allowance. Fold the binding over to the other side and bend it in place. Then show it on the edge to sew the corners, felt the seam away from the, and felt the corners flat, ben them. And sew them with a 1 centimeter seam allowance. Place the binding on the bottom side of the corners. Fold the one end of the binding, 1 centimeter to the wrong side. The folds should line up on the side, 1 centimeter in where you're going to sew your seam. Put a pin, pin the rest of the binding in place, and then fold the other end to the wrong side. And then sew it with a 1 centimeter seam allowance. Fold the binding over to the other side. See that the ends are folded in. Burn it in place, and sew it on the edge. Do this with all four of the corners. You finished your pouch, Turn it inside out, and turn out the corners. Thank you for taking up this course. Please give us a writing. 16. Design your own quilt pattern Introduction: Hello, I'm Lorraine from Easy Saw Academy. In this course, I will teach you how to design a quilt pattern template that you will use to sew a quilt sample to keep for future reference. You will also learn how to prepare the blocks, attach them, and the binding on the quilt edge. In other words, you will learn from start to finish, You need four different pieces of fabric. Half a meter of edge. A quilting ruler, a rotary cutter. Your sewing machine thread on on batting, a free motion sewing foot and the cutting mat. The lectures are easy to follow with beginners in mind love what you saw and sew what you love. 17. L1 Draw the pattern: Design your Un pattern. Lecture one. Draw the pattern. Draw a square of 16 centimeters by 16 centimeters. Draw a line 4 centimeters from the bottom of the square. Then draw the next line on the side, 4 centimeters wide, from the top to the four centimeter line at the bottom. Move the ruler to 2 centimeters from the previous line at the top and 4 centimeters at the bottom. Then draw the line. Draw another four centimeter line at the top. And draw a four centimeter line on the right side between the other lines. Then I'm going to divide the middle piece in half. Always start in the middle where you have pieces with lines that are the same length. I'm going to start with the small ones in the middle. This will be number one and number two. Now the line between number 1.2 will connect them to each other. This will be my first line that I will, so the line on this side is longer. The other line is the same as 1.2 That will be number three. The line at the bottom piece is too long, but the line at the top of 1.3 will fit in that piece will be number four. Number five will then be on the left side of the piece that we already marked. We can still not do the bottom one because it's still longer. Number six will be the panel on the left. The bottom panel is the last one, and this will be number seven. 18. L2 Cut the fabric: Lecture two, cut the fabric. The fabric pieces should be at least one centimetre. Bigger all around than the panels where you're going to put them in. You're going to sew four blocks. You need four pieces for each of the panels. Decide on what colors and prints you want to use for the blocks and for the binding. Then cut your strips six centimeter wide with the grain. It is important to work accurate with your measurements when you do your cutting and sewing. Otherwise, your blocks will not line up. Then mark the number on a sticker and put it on the top piece of all the different sizes that you're going to put in 0. 19. L3 Sew the fabric pieces on the templates: Lecture three. So the fabric pieces on the template. The first line that we will stitch is the line 1-2 Put a pin through the paper, on both sides of the stitching line, then mark it with a pencil at the back. We start with number one, This will be my pink fabric. Now we need the placing line. The placing line will be about 7 millimeters down from the marks. Place the fabric for number one on the bottom marks. The right side of the fabric should face up. Then put the fabric for number two with right side down to line up at the bottom. You can put a pin on the one side. Keep your fingers on the other side when you turn it over. Now you're going to sew that line, do back stitching so that your stitches doesn't go loose. Afterwards, there's our stitching line. Fold it over and press, turn it over. Number three will be on the side, We're going to stitch that line. Put a pin in on both sides of your stitching line. Make a mark about seven millimetres from the pens back out the pins. Put the fabric for number three with right sides down to line up with these marks. Pin or hold the fabric on both sides with your fingers in place and turn the paper. Then sew the seam. Remember to back stitch now fold the paper over and trim the seam. Then fold the fabric over and press number four is at the top. Put your pens in on both sides and make the placement marks. Seven millimeter from there. Take the pens out. Put number four, right side down to line up with the pencil marks. Fold it with both hands and fold it over. And then we're going to sew the line between number four and number 1.3. Fold your piper away and tim the seam, hold it over and press number five. Number five will be this one. Put your pen in at the top. At the bottom. The top one is perfect. The fabric could line up with the edge of your fabric there, but the bottom one is a bit in, so we have to mark the bottom one. Put your fabric with the right side down at the top. It should be 1 centimeter away from the edge of your paper and it should line up with a pencil mark at the bottom. Then keep the fabric in place, fold it over and sew the line. Fold the paper over and turn the seam. Fold the fabric over and press. The next panel is number six. Put your pens in on both sides of the stitch line at the bottom. It will be perfect. The fabric will line up with the edge here at the top, we will have to make our seven millimeter mark. Put the fabric with the right side down to line up with the mark at the top and on the edge of the fabric at the bottom. Keep it in place with your fingers on both sides. Turn the paper and stitch the line. Fold the paper over and trim the seam. Fold the fabric over and press. The last one is number seven. Put your pins in on both sides of the stitch line. In this case, the seven millimeter marks will be in line with the edge of number two. I'm going to keep my fabric in line with the edge of number two. Put the fabric with the right side down. Keep the fabric in place with your fingers. Fold it over and sew the seam. Fold the paper over and trim the scene. Fold the fabric over and press. When all your blocks are done, you're going to trim them exactly the same size as your paper. The next step is to take off all the paper. 20. L4 Prepare the blocks before attaching them: Lecture four, repair the blocks before attaching them. When you're done taking off the Piper, cut iron on batting one for each block exactly the same size as your blocks. Put the beating on the block, cover the batting with a piece of piper and then iron it on high heat. Do not steam your iron the batting at the edges. Put your three motion foot in your sewing machine. Drop the feed doc. Do your free motion stitching on all your blocks. Cut the back pieces for the blocks and put them wrong sides together. Burn it and sew it all around on the edge. Filter, binding over wrong sides together and place it. Decide on which way you want to put your blocks together, maybe to form a pattern. 21. L5 Attach the blocks: Lecture five, attach to the blocks. Put one piece of binding with the raw edges onto the raw edge of the block. You can overlap it a little bit at the edge to be a bit longer than the block. And then put another piece of binding on the top of your block. In other words, your block will lie between the two binding pieces. Bind them together. Then Carter machine and serve each of them with a seven millimeter seam allowance. Cut the binding so that it forms a stride line with the edges of your block. Put another block on the back of the binding with the right side facing up. Make sure that it lines up on both sides in it. And so your seven millimetres seam, this is what it looks like at the back. Now trim your seams a little bit so that they can lie flat next to each other. Press the binding over to cover your seam, then put it in place and sew it on the edge. This is what it looks like at the front and at the back. You can use a matching color of thread at the back. And then your stitches will not be as visible as the Navy that I used on the pink. The edges. Now put the binding on to attach the rows of your blocks with the same method, one piece at the bottom and one piece at the top row sides together. Sew them together as you did with the blocks. The binding between the blocks should also line up on the other side. The edges should line up. The binding between the blocks should also line up with each other. Put a pen in on the one side of the binding through all the layers to see that it lines up. And to keep it in place, make sure that the edges are still lined up. Then put more pens in to keep the edges together. Before you start sewing, check that the edges line up on both sides, the seams lie next to each other. Now fold the binding over Ben, it implies, and then do your top stitching. 22. L6 Bind the edges of the quilt: Lecture six, bind the edges of the quilt to finish the edges of your quilt cut binding of six centimeter wide. Attach the pieces so that you have a long enough binding to finish your quilt. Fold it over with the wrong sides together and press pin your binding to the one side of your quilt. Keep in mind that you need a 1 centimeter seam allowance and then start sewing six centimetres from the middle of the quilt. You will need that spice to finish the binding at the end. The seam allowance that we're going to sew now is 7 millimeters, in other words the side of the foot on the side of your fabric. And the needle in the middle position, mark 1 centimeter seam allowance at the edge on the corner. Then you stop sewing. When you get to that mark and back stitch, filter binding to the back so that it forms a straight line with the edge of your quit. Your corner needs to be a 45 degrees corner, Then filter binding to the front and see that it makes a fold on the edge of your quilt at the top. The sides also have to line up. Now you're going to start to sow 1 centimeter from the top. This will be exactly where you stopped with your previous stitching. And stop before you get to the next corner. Then mark the corner, and so further until you've finished all the corners. Mark the corner, so to the mark and backstitch. Fold the binding a way to the top. Fold the corner in and fold the binding back to the front. See that the fault lines up at the top and at the sides. And then make sure that you start exactly where you stopped your previous stitching. Mark the corner. So do the mark and back stitch. Fold the binding away to the top. Fold the corner in fold, binding to the front. See that the fold lines up at the top and at the side then, so the next side fold your lost corner, so until 6 centimeters from the middle of the side of your quote. This will be the site where you started to attach the two ends of the binding. You need a 1 centimeter seam allowance on both ends. Lay the last end flat on the edge and measure 1 centimeter away from the middle line and cut the binding. Now you have 1 centimeter seam allowance on each end. Open the binding pieces and put them with right sides together. See that the edges, lines in them and sew the seam. Press the seam open with your finger, fold the binding over, then sew the rest of the seam. Now fold the binding over to the right side of your quilt and put pins in. When you get to the corner, the one piece should lie flat, and the fold the other one in it should form a 45 degree corner. Make sure that the edges line up at the fault in the corner, fold the rest of the binding over, burn it all around, and do the same at all the corners. Start at the seam of that type and do a edge stitching all around. When you get to the corners, your needle should stay in the fabric exactly on the corner fold, then left the foot up and turn and let the foot down and stitch further. So this is what my old sample looks like at the front and at the back. Design your unique patterns and enjoy your quilt making.