Transcripts
1. Introduction The slow fashion shoulder bag: Hi, welcome to this
live fashion shoulder back cause of easy. So Academy. My name is load line
and I'm going to take you step-by-step
through this course. By the end of this course, you should be able to sell
a line to protect a strep. Dealing straps, pockets with
bias binding finishing, exposed sub pockets, and also how to put
stats in the straps. This is what the bank
looks like on the inside. The supplies that you need. A used loading item like genes, new cotton fabric, ion
on bad thing thread. I did 12th universal needle. I did 12 or 9014 top
stitching needle, 45 centimeters, opening
up to 15 centimeters. Apps for the exposed sub pockets to four centimeter dealings, and to eight millimeter
or ten millimeters stats, which will be optional. When you buy this EPS. Keep in mind that your steps
are going to be visible, such as yourselves, to fit in
with the color of your bag. Use the good fabric pieces of a used item to be sure that your back will last a long time. The reason why we combine
the used fabric with new fabric is because we still need to support
our fabric stores. You can use to spools of normal thread for
the top stitching. Instead of buying
top stitch thread, you can also try two different colors to get a different look for
your top stitching. I would like to encourage you to ask if you have
any questions, as I will be here to
support you all the way. Enjoy your sewing.
2. L1 The preparations: Hi, I'm Laura. I'm from easy sell Academy. In this course, you make the
slow fashion shoulder back. The meaning of slow fashion
is to produce clothing or other creative seven items
which consume time to produce a quality material
that will last a long time. And is in contrast with
first version that is low quality mass production that quickly end
up in landfills. In this project, I use
a pair of jeans that is still in good condition
but doesn't fit anymore. And I also bought good-quality 100% cotton fabric
to combine it with pieces of the bass part of the US item to ensure that this bag
will last a long time. And this way, we still support our fabric stores and
at the same time, keep our good-quality used loading in the recycled process. In lecture one, you
do the preparations. Now not the pattern. Makes sure that your
printer is say to print actual size and print it on I4. The seam allowance
for this project is one centimeter and is included
in all the pattern pieces. Measure that this block
of four centimeter by four centimeter to be sure that your pattern is
printed the correct size. Got your pattern pieces out, that the step button
pieces together to form one long pattern piece and do the same with
the other pieces. Antibonding pieces. Cut the pieces out on
your fabric and packed in as indicated in lecture to you, we'll start with the sodium.
3. L2 The outer bias binding pockets: In lecture to you Mike, the outer eyes binding pockets. Got the piece of your
upcycled fabric. I'd centimeters
wide and then cut four pieces of your other
fabric, five centimeters wide. But the upcycled fabric
with the wrong side down on the one side
of the batting. It should be longer than the button at the
top and bottom. Burnett and solid on
the edges of the baton. And cut the extra
pieces of open this up using one side of
the step at a time. A piece of this up a little bit longer than the baton and set this up on the edge of the fabric piece with the
right side facing up. Then put a piece of fabric onto this up with the
right side down. The edges should line up Burnett and then soured against
the teeth of the SERP. Fold the fabric piece over
and sew it on the row h. Put another piece of the
Zip onto the fabric. The edges should line up Burnett and then
sew it on the edge. Then put another
piece of fabric with the right side
down onto the set. The edges should line up, put pins in and sell it next
to the teeth of the SERP. Fold the fabric over and
sew it on the row, age. Then pen another piece
of this up on the edge of the fabric and
soured on the edge. Then carry on like this. But pending another piece
of fabric onto the set, keep in mind that you rotate the contrast colors
of the fabric pieces solid on the edge of the fabric over and so it under
rho H, then penance. So another piece of this up
on the edge of the fabric. Now open the last piece
of fabric onto this up. And so it next to the
teeth of the setup for the fabric over IN the
pocket on the fabric side. So the batting around the edges to attach
it to the fabric and then cut the extra pieces
of fabric of the drum, the extra pieces of the
fabric around the edges of the bat in the back
and front view of your pocket will
look like this. On my other pocket, I used the fly front of the
genes with the buttons on. I might have a few
loops that I've put around the buttons. Then I use pieces of
the leftover fabric to cover the rest of the
baton to make this bucket. I want you to think
out of the box and say your own creation
on the baton. Then cover the button with a
piece of pipe and iron them. In lecture three, you
will make this trap. And the D ring straps.
4. L3 The straps and the lining pockets: This is Lecture three. In this lecture, you're
going to say this trap, that eating straps and
the lining pockets. You need this trap piece,
the batting piece, and also the cover piece on
the wrong side of the strap, throw a line lengthwise two centimeter from the
age of the strap. And I in the batting
against this line for the sides of the strap over
the button and press it. Mark a line in the middle of the piece on the wrong side of the fabric and fall decides to the middle mark
line and place it, place the color piece on
the open side of the step. See that it lines up in the middle of the
step and Punnett. The institute all around one
millimeter from the edge. Now do exactly the same
with the D-ring straps. Mark the two centimeter lines on the wrong side of
the outer pieces. Then IN the baton, on the sides over the
baton and praise. Then fault the sides of the color pieces to
the wrong side and press cover the opening of the dating steps with the cover pieces
wrong sides together. See that it lines up in the middle and then
solid around the edges. But the steps through the
dealings and fold them double, then stitch them
on the road sides, on the wrong side of the fabric. Mock one centimeter lines
lengthwise from the H's on the top and
bottom of the sub-tabs, then fault is sides
of the sub-tabs in by one centimeter
and praise them. All the tabs double with the right sides onto
each other and pin them. Then stitching on the lines, then the tabs inside out
and turn out the corners. Place name now applies
the dealing steps in the middle of the curve on the right side of
the upper panels. And then sew it on the edge. Plus the bias binding
pocket out to add ly pieces with
right sides together. Put pins in the inside
them on the sides, then the inside out and praise
this seems remembered to put piper on the button so that you do not
bend. A bad thing. Also that the glue
doesn't land on your ion on the
experts to pocket. I am the baton to the top. On the wrong side of the fabric. They draw the lines from the
pattern onto the button. These lines should be straight and the measurements
should be accurate. Otherwise, the opening
where you go sip should go in, will be skewed. In lecture four, you will
make the bias binding.
5. L4 The bias binding: This is lecture for now you're
going to start the bias binding and attach
the outer pockets to the middle panels of the bag. Measure the curved line of
the pocket and act three centimeter extra to make sure you're binding will
fit the pockets. You can turn it off the
subunit to the pockets, right? This measurement down. Fold the fabric for
the binding over on the bias, then folded double. Then cut a piece of fabric at least 12 to 13
centimeters wide, got a straight line
next to the faults. To ensure a straight line, you're really should line
up at the top fault. Keep your fingers
away from the blight. Older cutters straight up, then press down on the cutter
as well as on the ruler. Make sure that you press hard enough to cut all the layers at once and keep the blight next
to your two wild-card tin. Make sure that your
ruler is lined up on the edge of the fabric. Then cut to pieces of binding on the bias by five
centimeter wide. As your fabric is double. This will give you four
pieces of bias binding. For the bias by nib with the wrong sides together
and press them. When you place the bias
binding onto the pocket, earth, ins should be a little
bit longer at the top. Then the row Hs of
the bias binding to the wrong side of the pocket
pieces against the curve. And then soured with a seven millimeter
seam allowance for the bias binding to the
outside of the pockets. Burnett and sell it on the edge. Plus the metal panels
of the outer fabric with the right sides
together, put pins in. And so the sides with a one
centimeter seam allowance. Then it inside out and
place the seams open. Do a top stitching on
both sides of the same. Plus the bias binding
pockets with the wrong side down and fold them
over in the center. Now applies the fault on the
stitch line of the scene. The pocket implies and
stitch it on the sides. Do the same with the other
pocket on the other side. Got it ends at the top in
line with the pocket age. In lecture five, you will attach the top and bottom
pieces to this panel.
6. L5 The top and bottom panels: This is Lecture five. Now you're going to
sell the top and bottom pieces of your back. I use the recycled fabric for the top and bottom
panels of my bag. Place the top pieces with
the right sides together. So it with a one
centimeter seam allowance and place the seams open. Do the top stitching
on both sides of the same the same width as
on the middle panel. But the top is with
the right side on the outside of the middle
panel and stitch it with a one centimeter
similar ones for the top panel upwards and
press the seam to the top. Top stitching on
the same stitch, the bottom panels together. The seams open and do the
top stitching on both sides. Then the bottom panel and the middle panel with
right sides together. The scenes should be
exactly onto each other. With a one centimeter
seam allowance. The bottom panel with the
same down and press it, then do a top stitching
on the scene. When the bottom of the bag
with the right sides together, the inside of it with a one
centimeter seam allowance. Then the bag inside out
and place the same for the same to one side and do a top stitching on
the same fault. The box corners in the bottom seems should
be in the middle. And so the corners with a one
centimeter seam allowance. In lecture six, you will
sell the lining of the bag.
7. L6 The lining: Lecture six. Now you can
decide the lining of the bag. Place the metal panels with right sides together,
put pins in. And so the sides with a one
centimeter seam allowance. Then it inside out and
place the seams open. Do a top stitching on
both sides of the same. Place. The bias binding pockets
with the wrong side down. Fold them in the center and place the fall under
stitch line of the same pen the pocket implies and stitch
it on the sides. The same with the other pocket. On the other side. Got the ends at the top plus the top panels with
right sides together. Bend them and do the same
with the bottom panels. Then. So the one centimeter
seam allowance on both sides of them. Press the seams open and do the top stitching on
both sides of the seams. That top and bottom panels
to the middle panel, with the right
sides to be there. The seams should line
up with each other. And so then with a one
centimeter seam allowance. But keep a piece open
on the one side, about 20 centimeters
at the bottom. Same default, the bag inside
out lighter on the bottom, same with a one
centimeter seam allowance for the box corners in it. And so the corners with a one
centimeter seam allowance. In lecture seven, you make the exposed pockets on
the sides of the back.
8. L7 The exposed zip pockets: Lecture seven. Now you're going to make
the exposed sub pockets. You're going to put the exposed the pockets on the
sides of the back, light the back flat on the table upside down
with the side facing up. Measure four centimeter
from the top seam. Draw a straight line. This will be your
mark in line with the opening of the
exposed step will be if you don't have this thick seam of the
denim in the top panel, then you can make your
pocket a little bit longer and put it in the middle
of this top panel. Mark the center of the
side panels of the bag. The middle marked line
on the pocket piece should be in line with this
line that you have drawn in. The pocket panels double with
the wrong sides together, plus the pockets with a fault on the middle marks. In place. The metal lines on the
bad things should be in line with a four
centimeter line. When the other pocket to
the other side of the bag. The center line and to the
stitches in the corners. Be careful not to cut
into the stitches. Then followed the pocket to the inside through
the opening and preset stitch the top and bottom seams of the opening
onto the pocket panel. Slice this up in the opening. Make sure that the teeth
of this app will be in the middle of the
eye-opening when you pronate, so that the edges of the pocket be the same distance
from the date of this. On the top and bottom. Do and talking about three
millimeters from the ages of the opening to keep this up in place so that you can take the pins out before
you start stitching. Otherwise, the edges
can move away. When you take your pins out. The inside about one millimeter
from the edge all around. With this stitch
length on three. Make this shorter if necessary, to shorten this up. So a stopper, the zigzag around the coil
or the teeth of your SIP. About six times stitch
length on Sierra. Then you can cut it
next to the stopper. So the outside lines, like saving a wealth,
pocket, fault, the pocket, double and stitch
the row sites to get that, place the pocket
from the outside. In lecture eight, you saw
the top panel of the bag.
9. L8 the top zip panels: Lecture. Right? Now
you're going to say the top zip panels overlook
the edges of the top and lining pieces for this
panel's footprints in the middle of the
panels and fold them over. Then mark the fabric on
the h's at the pins so that you have the
middle markings mark the center of this app. On both sides. These marks on this zip
should line up with the middle markings of the panels when you
put them together. When one side of
the zip and the one outside panel onto each other, muddle marks should line up and the right sides of the SEP and the panel should be
against each other. When aligning piece to the
wrong side of the SEP, the edges should line up. The outer and the lining
pieces should be aligned. Now you have to bend the other two pieces to the
other side of this app. They all have to line up. So make sure that all the center marks or
pinned onto each other. Mach one centimeter from the H's on both the
panels on this side, the inside the same
between the marks with a one centimeter seam allowance for the sides of the panels against the one centimeter
markings to the wrong side and pin them for the outer and lining panels with the wrong sides onto each other and bending them to be
there with an edge stitch. But the zip ends into the tabs and sell it
on the open edge. Do it top stitching on both the zip seems by
selling a food stitch. Now you're going to attach
the SIP panels to the lining, measured 2.5 centimeter from the same line on the top panel. Then draw a straight line. The inside of the lining. The right side down fault, there's a panel tuple plus the SIP panel
under marked line. The middle of the
panel should be on the same line of the lining. Happens in to keep
it on the line. The ruler out and stitch it with a one centimeter
seam allowance. Then the lining over, and then draw the 2.5 centimeter line on the top panel
of the other side. Then put in the lining and open this up for the panel tuple
with the wrong side together. Place it on the line with the
middle mark on the scene. And Burnett, like the ruler out
and sell it with a one centimeter seam allowance. Fault the panels down. And In2 input pins in and do a top stitching one
centimeter from the faults. At this side of the
bed, mocha line, two centimeter down from the top on the right
side of the fabric, plus the upper edges of the
Terps Against the lines and do the lining on the
previous stitching line. In lecture nine, you will attach the lining to
the outer piece of your bag and put the straps
on and then finish your back.
10. L9 Attach the lining and put the strap on: Lecture nine. You're going to attach the
lining at the outer piece of your bag and then put the
strap on and finish your back. Then the lining inside out
plus the outer piece of your bag into the lining with the rod sides facing each other. But this seems exactly
onto each other. The dating straps
should lie between the two layers and then painted all around the Institute with a one
centimeter seam allowance. Then the bag inside out. Folded seam allowance at
the opening to the inside. The faults should line up together on the folded edges and put the lining into the bag. This is what it looks like
when this up is closed. Brace the bonus
out at the bottom, then the bottom
seams of the lining and the outer panel together. And then sew them together by hand stitching on
the same lines, starting on the inside
and also on the inside. And use matching
thread to ensure the stitches are invisible. Place the top seam and Punnett. Do it top stitching one
centimeter from the same line. This is what the path
looks like on the inside. Fault, the ends of the strap one centimeter to the
wrong side. And praise. Put this trap in
through the directions, then fold them 3.5 centimeter
to the wrong side, bend them and solve
it on the edge. The tools that are used to
put the stats in a hammer, all like the one in the picture. The ten millimeter install
two of the round by stools. One side of the install two should have a hole
in it to fit over the button in the center of the round bias and to
ten millimeters stats. Now you can put the
rabbits in NYC, the holes for the rivets with the O in the middle
between the two faults. But this, that through the
halls and put the cap on. But one of the buys
tools at the bottom, the smooth side should face up. Now put the other
buys on top with the smooth side facing
down onto the stat. Boot, the install two
with the whole facing down over the button
on the bias too. Then use the hammer, tap, the stat in. You have now come to
the end of this course. Thank you for leaving a review. And I wish you plenty
miles of happy selling. Lookout for more causes
of easy Side Academy.
11. The Zip Pouch L1 Preperations: In this project, you make
the multipurpose zip pouch. Lecture one will be
the preparations. Print your pattern on actual
size paper size three, measure the square on the right top corner to see if your printing
is the correct size. Keep the grain line of the pattern pieces on the
grain of your fabric. And the place on fold side of your pattern should be on
the fold of your fabric. You have to fold your fabric, Double the pattern
pieces out on the fabric and iron on batting as
indicated on the pieces. See the pattern page one for the requirements that you
need for this project. Sew the outer pieces together with a 1
centimeter seam allowance. Fold the seams to
the bottom panel and press on the batting onto
the back of the outer piece. Remember to cover
the batting with Piper to prevent the glue
to stick to your iron. Then to a top stitching on the seams on the wrong side
of the binding pieces. Draw a line in the length, fold the outer edges
to the line and press. Then fold the double
with wrong sides together and press get yourself an open
end Ip at least 5 centimeters longer than the
measurement of the pouch. This will make the
saving so much easier as you can open
the zip completely and the thickness
of the stoppers and the zipper will not be a
problem at the same line.
12. L2 Sew the zip: To the place the zip with the
right side on the top edge. The outer fabric should face the ends of the
zip should be longer, about the same amount
on each side pin the edge of the zip to line up with the
edge of the fabric. Note the direction of the pins. Sew it on the edge to
keep the Sip in place. But do not sew it
near the teeth of the Ip as you still need
to put the lining in, keep the zip closed. And fold the other
edge of the pouch towards the zip with
right sides together. See that the sides line up and put a pen in. Do the same on the other side, pin the rest of
the zip in place.
13. L3 Attach the lining: Lecture three. Attach the
lining. Open the zip. Put the normal zip
foot in your machine. Place the lining onto the outer piece with
right sides together. And pin it in place so it with the up put
against the teeth of the up. Remembered the back stitch. Turn it inside out. Praise the seams away from
the set and put puns in. Put the normal sewing
foot in the machine. Do a top stitching with the side of the foot on
the fold of the sea. Then sew a foot stitch. Si, the agent should land, then swim with a tacking
stitch on the edge.
14. L4 Sew the tabs and side seams: Lecture four. So the tabs and
side seams, close this up, fold the tabs lengthwise, double with wrong sides
together and press, then fold them over with
the wrong side out. The edges should line up, burn them, and sew it with a 1 centimeter seam
allowance on the sides. Turn the tabs inside out, turn the corners out
and praise them. Close then by
selling on the edge the center of the bottom panel. Then fold the tab. Double place the fold
to the center mark on the right side of the pouch
and pin the tab in place. Do the same on the other side, starting at the closed
side of the zip pen, the top and bottom sides of
the pouch onto each other before you pin the other side. Open the up far enough to turn the pouch
inside out later, start to pin at both corners. And then in between this way, the teeth of the up will
end up next to each other. Sew them with a one
centimetre seam allowance. When you get to the teeth of the turn the wheel
by hand towards you. If your needle
catches the teeth, move the fabric
slightly forward, but do not lift the foot up, otherwise your sea will
not be in a straight line. Cut the up against the edge of the fabric with your
piper scissors.
15. L5 Sew the binding: Five, Sew the binding. To sew the binding, turn the pouch with
the bottom upwards. Open the one side of the
binding and line it up with the edge of
the fabric burnt. Note that I use longer
pieces of binding, but the pieces of the pattern
will be the correct length. Then sew it with a 1
centimeter seam allowance. Fold the binding over to the other side and
bend it in place. Then show it on the edge to sew the corners, felt the seam away from the, and felt the corners
flat, ben them. And sew them with a 1
centimeter seam allowance. Place the binding on the
bottom side of the corners. Fold the one end of the binding, 1 centimeter to the wrong side. The folds should
line up on the side, 1 centimeter in where you're
going to sew your seam. Put a pin, pin the rest
of the binding in place, and then fold the other
end to the wrong side. And then sew it with a 1 centimeter
seam allowance. Fold the binding over
to the other side. See that the ends are folded in. Burn it in place, and sew it on the edge. Do this with all
four of the corners. You finished your pouch, Turn it inside out, and turn out the corners. Thank you for taking
up this course. Please give us a writing.
16. Design your own quilt pattern Introduction: Hello, I'm Lorraine
from Easy Saw Academy. In this course, I will
teach you how to design a quilt pattern template
that you will use to sew a quilt sample to keep
for future reference. You will also learn how
to prepare the blocks, attach them, and the
binding on the quilt edge. In other words, you will
learn from start to finish, You need four different
pieces of fabric. Half a meter of edge. A quilting ruler,
a rotary cutter. Your sewing machine
thread on on batting, a free motion sewing foot
and the cutting mat. The lectures are easy to
follow with beginners in mind love what you saw
and sew what you love.
17. L1 Draw the pattern: Design your Un
pattern. Lecture one. Draw the pattern.
Draw a square of 16 centimeters by
16 centimeters. Draw a line 4 centimeters from
the bottom of the square. Then draw the next
line on the side, 4 centimeters wide, from the top to the four centimeter
line at the bottom. Move the ruler to 2 centimeters
from the previous line at the top and 4 centimeters at the bottom. Then
draw the line. Draw another four
centimeter line at the top. And draw a four
centimeter line on the right side between
the other lines. Then I'm going to divide
the middle piece in half. Always start in the
middle where you have pieces with lines
that are the same length. I'm going to start with the
small ones in the middle. This will be number
one and number two. Now the line between number 1.2 will connect
them to each other. This will be my first
line that I will, so the line on this
side is longer. The other line is the same as 1.2 That will be number three. The line at the bottom
piece is too long, but the line at the top of 1.3 will fit in that piece
will be number four. Number five will then be on the left side of the piece
that we already marked. We can still not do the bottom one because it's still longer. Number six will be the
panel on the left. The bottom panel
is the last one, and this will be number seven.
18. L2 Cut the fabric: Lecture two, cut the fabric. The fabric pieces should be
at least one centimetre. Bigger all around than the panels where you're
going to put them in. You're going to sew four blocks. You need four pieces
for each of the panels. Decide on what colors
and prints you want to use for the blocks
and for the binding. Then cut your strips six
centimeter wide with the grain. It is important to
work accurate with your measurements when you
do your cutting and sewing. Otherwise, your blocks
will not line up. Then mark the number on a sticker and put
it on the top piece of all the different sizes
that you're going to put in 0.
19. L3 Sew the fabric pieces on the templates: Lecture three. So the fabric
pieces on the template. The first line that we
will stitch is the line 1-2 Put a pin through the paper, on both sides of
the stitching line, then mark it with a
pencil at the back. We start with number one, This will be my pink fabric. Now we need the placing line. The placing line will be about 7 millimeters
down from the marks. Place the fabric for number
one on the bottom marks. The right side of the
fabric should face up. Then put the fabric
for number two with right side down to
line up at the bottom. You can put a pin
on the one side. Keep your fingers
on the other side when you turn it over. Now you're going
to sew that line, do back stitching so that your
stitches doesn't go loose. Afterwards, there's our stitching line. Fold it over and
press, turn it over. Number three will
be on the side, We're going to stitch that line. Put a pin in on both sides
of your stitching line. Make a mark about seven millimetres from the
pens back out the pins. Put the fabric for
number three with right sides down to line
up with these marks. Pin or hold the
fabric on both sides with your fingers in
place and turn the paper. Then sew the seam. Remember to back stitch now fold the paper over
and trim the seam. Then fold the fabric over and press number four is at the top. Put your pens in on both sides and make
the placement marks. Seven millimeter from
there. Take the pens out. Put number four, right side down to line up with
the pencil marks. Fold it with both hands
and fold it over. And then we're going
to sew the line between number four
and number 1.3. Fold your piper away
and tim the seam, hold it over and
press number five. Number five will be this one. Put your pen in at the
top. At the bottom. The top one is perfect. The fabric could line up with the edge of
your fabric there, but the bottom one is a bit in, so we have to mark
the bottom one. Put your fabric with the
right side down at the top. It should be 1 centimeter
away from the edge of your paper and it should line up with a pencil
mark at the bottom. Then keep the fabric in place, fold it over and sew the line. Fold the paper over
and turn the seam. Fold the fabric over and press. The next panel is number six. Put your pens in
on both sides of the stitch line at the bottom. It will be perfect. The fabric will line up with
the edge here at the top, we will have to make our
seven millimeter mark. Put the fabric with
the right side down to line up with the mark at the top and on the edge of
the fabric at the bottom. Keep it in place with your
fingers on both sides. Turn the paper and
stitch the line. Fold the paper over
and trim the seam. Fold the fabric over and press. The last one is number seven. Put your pins in on both
sides of the stitch line. In this case, the
seven millimeter marks will be in line with
the edge of number two. I'm going to keep my fabric in line with the
edge of number two. Put the fabric with
the right side down. Keep the fabric in place
with your fingers. Fold it over and sew the seam. Fold the paper over
and trim the scene. Fold the fabric over and press. When all your blocks are done, you're going to trim them exactly the same
size as your paper. The next step is to
take off all the paper.
20. L4 Prepare the blocks before attaching them: Lecture four, repair the
blocks before attaching them. When you're done
taking off the Piper, cut iron on batting one for each block exactly the
same size as your blocks. Put the beating on the block, cover the batting
with a piece of piper and then iron
it on high heat. Do not steam your iron
the batting at the edges. Put your three motion foot
in your sewing machine. Drop the feed doc. Do your
free motion stitching on all your blocks. Cut the back pieces for the blocks and put them
wrong sides together. Burn it and sew it all
around on the edge. Filter, binding over wrong
sides together and place it. Decide on which way you want
to put your blocks together, maybe to form a pattern.
21. L5 Attach the blocks: Lecture five, attach
to the blocks. Put one piece of binding with the raw edges onto the
raw edge of the block. You can overlap it
a little bit at the edge to be a bit
longer than the block. And then put another piece of binding on the top
of your block. In other words, your
block will lie between the two binding pieces.
Bind them together. Then Carter machine
and serve each of them with a seven
millimeter seam allowance. Cut the binding so that it forms a stride line with the
edges of your block. Put another block on the back of the binding with the
right side facing up. Make sure that it lines
up on both sides in it. And so your seven
millimetres seam, this is what it looks
like at the back. Now trim your seams
a little bit so that they can lie flat
next to each other. Press the binding over
to cover your seam, then put it in place
and sew it on the edge. This is what it looks like at
the front and at the back. You can use a matching color
of thread at the back. And then your stitches will
not be as visible as the Navy that I used on the
pink. The edges. Now put the binding
on to attach the rows of your blocks with
the same method, one piece at the bottom
and one piece at the top row sides together. Sew them together as you
did with the blocks. The binding between
the blocks should also line up on the other side. The edges should line up. The binding between the blocks should also line up
with each other. Put a pen in on the
one side of the binding through all the layers
to see that it lines up. And to keep it in place, make sure that the edges
are still lined up. Then put more pens in to
keep the edges together. Before you start sewing, check that the edges
line up on both sides, the seams lie next
to each other. Now fold the binding over Ben, it implies, and then
do your top stitching.
22. L6 Bind the edges of the quilt: Lecture six, bind the edges
of the quilt to finish the edges of your quilt cut binding of six centimeter wide. Attach the pieces
so that you have a long enough binding
to finish your quilt. Fold it over with the
wrong sides together and press pin your binding to
the one side of your quilt. Keep in mind that you need a 1 centimeter
seam allowance and then start sewing
six centimetres from the middle of the quilt. You will need that spice to finish the binding at the end. The seam allowance
that we're going to sew now is 7 millimeters, in other words the side of the foot on the side
of your fabric. And the needle in
the middle position, mark 1 centimeter seam allowance at the edge on the corner. Then you stop sewing. When you get to that
mark and back stitch, filter binding to
the back so that it forms a straight line with
the edge of your quit. Your corner needs to be
a 45 degrees corner, Then filter binding
to the front and see that it makes a fold on the edge of your
quilt at the top. The sides also have to line up. Now you're going to start to sow 1 centimeter from the top. This will be exactly where you stopped with your
previous stitching. And stop before you get
to the next corner. Then mark the corner, and so further until you've
finished all the corners. Mark the corner, so to
the mark and backstitch. Fold the binding
a way to the top. Fold the corner in and fold the binding
back to the front. See that the fault lines up
at the top and at the sides. And then make sure
that you start exactly where you stopped
your previous stitching. Mark the corner. So do
the mark and back stitch. Fold the binding
away to the top. Fold the corner in fold, binding to the front. See that the fold lines up at the top and at the side then, so the next side fold your lost corner, so until 6 centimeters from the middle of the
side of your quote. This will be the site
where you started to attach the two
ends of the binding. You need a 1 centimeter seam
allowance on both ends. Lay the last end flat
on the edge and measure 1 centimeter away from the middle line and
cut the binding. Now you have 1 centimeter
seam allowance on each end. Open the binding pieces and put them with
right sides together. See that the edges, lines in them and sew the seam. Press the seam open
with your finger, fold the binding over, then sew the rest of the seam. Now fold the binding over
to the right side of your quilt and put pins in. When you get to the corner, the one piece should lie flat, and the fold the other one in it should form a
45 degree corner. Make sure that the
edges line up at the fault in the corner, fold the rest of the binding over, burn it all around, and do the same at
all the corners. Start at the seam
of that type and do a edge stitching all around. When you get to the corners, your needle should stay in the fabric exactly
on the corner fold, then left the foot up and turn and let the foot down
and stitch further. So this is what my old sample looks like at the
front and at the back. Design your unique patterns
and enjoy your quilt making.