Sewing: Creating A Pair Of Custom-Made Jeans | Fred Deocariza | Skillshare
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Sewing: Creating A Pair Of Custom-Made Jeans

teacher avatar Fred Deocariza, Stop Buying. Start Creating.

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Class Intro

      0:53

    • 2.

      Different Tools

      6:42

    • 3.

      Understanding the Measurement

      4:50

    • 4.

      Basic Body Measurement

      10:27

    • 5.

      Measuring the Pants

      14:09

    • 6.

      Measuring the Person's Body

      8:19

    • 7.

      Course Review

      0:45

    • 8.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v00 viewing

      1:03

    • 9.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v01 crease line of the pants OR center of the tracing paper

      1:11

    • 10.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v02 hem and hem extension of the pants

      0:36

    • 11.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v03 length of the pants

      0:38

    • 12.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v04 riser OR crotch line of the pants

      0:40

    • 13.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v05 hip line of the pants

      0:32

    • 14.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v06 thigh line of the pants

      0:29

    • 15.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v07 knee line of the pants

      0:40

    • 16.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v08 hem to hem extension

      2:21

    • 17.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v09 knee diameter

      1:00

    • 18.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v10 thigh diameter why it needs to connect to the crotch and back hip

      1:47

    • 19.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v11 hip diameter connect to crotch to become the center front

      0:29

    • 20.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v12 CENTER FRONT

      0:09

    • 21.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v13 waist

      1:25

    • 22.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v14 front crotch

      2:24

    • 23.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v15 connect all the points to complete the front pattern

      1:03

    • 24.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v16 blend the sharp corners

      1:28

    • 25.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v17 marking the size of the back pattern from hem extension up to thigh

      0:46

    • 26.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v18 back crotch line

      0:40

    • 27.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v19 back hip line

      0:39

    • 28.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v20 preparing for the back waist by extending 2 inches above

      0:29

    • 29.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v21 back crotch

      2:50

    • 30.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v22 back waist

      0:42

    • 31.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v23 connect the other points to complete the back pattern

      1:13

    • 32.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v24 blend the sharp corners of the back pattern

      2:01

    • 33.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v25 mark the waistband so you will not be confused

      2:15

    • 34.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v26 cutting the whole pattern

      3:13

    • 35.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v27 tracing the back pattern

      7:31

    • 36.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v28 cutting the front pattern

      2:05

    • 37.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v29 cutting the pocket

      2:10

    • 38.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v30 back yoke

      12:35

    • 39.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v31 back pocket

      4:15

    • 40.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v32 watch pocket

      3:04

    • 41.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v33 waistband

      3:44

    • 42.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v34 pocket bag

      6:51

    • 43.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v35 pocket facing

      2:36

    • 44.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v36 fly guard and facing

      5:30

    • 45.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v37 cutting the other parts into segments

      1:03

    • 46.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v38 cutting the watch and back pockets pattern pieces

      2:41

    • 47.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v39 cutting waistband pattern paper

      2:37

    • 48.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v40 pocket bag and its pieces

      4:15

    • 49.

      Pants Pattern (Segment) v41 cutting the fly guard and facing

      1:53

    • 50.

      Get More Patterns

      2:02

    • 51.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v01 preparing the fabric

      0:45

    • 52.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v02 position the pattern on the fabric

      4:37

    • 53.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v03 tracing the waistband

      1:16

    • 54.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v04 tracing the front pant pattern

      7:29

    • 55.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v05 tracing the back pant pattern

      7:02

    • 56.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v06 tracing the back yoke

      4:50

    • 57.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v07 tracing the back pocket

      2:56

    • 58.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v08 tracing the watch pocket

      1:56

    • 59.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v09 tracing the fly guard and facing

      6:57

    • 60.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v10 tracing pocket side front

      3:23

    • 61.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v11 tracing the pocket facing

      2:38

    • 62.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v12 cutting the pattern pieces to be traced accurately

      9:45

    • 63.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v13 cutting the front pant pattern

      4:46

    • 64.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v14 cutting the back pant pattern

      2:52

    • 65.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v15 cutting the back yoke

      1:22

    • 66.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v16 cutting the back pocket

      2:43

    • 67.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v17 cutting the coin pocket

      2:24

    • 68.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v18 cutting the fly guard and facing

      2:03

    • 69.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v19 cutting the pocket side front

      1:32

    • 70.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v20 cutting the pocket facing

      1:34

    • 71.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v21 cutting the belt loop

      2:15

    • 72.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v22 check all the pattern pieces

      2:40

    • 73.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v23 preparation for the pocket bag

      0:54

    • 74.

      Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v24 tracing the pocket bag

      15:36

    • 75.

      Selvedge Jeans Patternmaking Class

      0:20

    • 76.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v01 changing regular presser foot to 1 8 compensating presser foot

      1:19

    • 77.

      Sewing pants (Segment) v02 ironing bias (with pinning)

      5:14

    • 78.

      Sewing pants (Segment) v03 sewing bias to fly guard

      12:47

    • 79.

      Sewing pants (Segment) v04 sewing bias to fly facing

      3:23

    • 80.

      Sewing pants (Segment) v05 sewing fly facing to the left front pant

      4:09

    • 81.

      Sewing pants (Segment) v06

      2:36

    • 82.

      Sewing pants (Segment) v06

      3:57

    • 83.

      Sewing pants (Segment) v07

      4:20

    • 84.

      Sewing pants (Segment) v07

      4:08

    • 85.

      Sewing pants (Segment) v08 sewing front crotch

      12:45

    • 86.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v09 positioning of pocket parts

      1:36

    • 87.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v10 ironing watch pocket

      3:04

    • 88.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v11 sewing watch pocket for preparation to be sewn to the side front on th

      3:37

    • 89.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v12 sewing side front

      5:27

    • 90.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v13 sewing pocket facing

      9:07

    • 91.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v14 sewing watch pocket on the side front of the pocket bag

      9:06

    • 92.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v16

      2:15

    • 93.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v16

      2:58

    • 94.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v16

      4:06

    • 95.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v16

      3:04

    • 96.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v16

      8:53

    • 97.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v16

      5:00

    • 98.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v17 sewing back yoke

      20:06

    • 99.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v18

      4:40

    • 100.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v18

      3:23

    • 101.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v18

      6:56

    • 102.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v18

      9:49

    • 103.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v18

      3:20

    • 104.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v18

      11:25

    • 105.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v18

      7:37

    • 106.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v19

      3:34

    • 107.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v19

      12:05

    • 108.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v19

      8:10

    • 109.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v19

      4:04

    • 110.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v19

      7:28

    • 111.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v19

      3:45

    • 112.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v19

      5:38

    • 113.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v19

      7:32

    • 114.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v19

      7:23

    • 115.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v19

      6:30

    • 116.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v19

      1:59

    • 117.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v20

      6:40

    • 118.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v20

      1:37

    • 119.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v20

      12:02

    • 120.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v20

      4:12

    • 121.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v20

      7:47

    • 122.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v20

      7:23

    • 123.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v20

      5:24

    • 124.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v20

      1:22

    • 125.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v21

      10:47

    • 126.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v21

      15:41

    • 127.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v22

      5:31

    • 128.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v22

      1:26

    • 129.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v22

      11:53

    • 130.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v22

      7:49

    • 131.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v22

      6:51

    • 132.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v23

      5:35

    • 133.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v23

      12:46

    • 134.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v23

      12:34

    • 135.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v23

      4:59

    • 136.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v23

      19:57

    • 137.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v23

      16:13

    • 138.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v23

      13:11

    • 139.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v23

      6:04

    • 140.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v24

      4:09

    • 141.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v24

      2:13

    • 142.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v24

      22:55

    • 143.

      Sewing Pants (Segment) v25 reinforcing the belt loops

      6:43

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About This Class

I'm Fred Deocariza and for years I have been learning and sewing and experimenting with jeans because I am in love with them. But great jeans are expensive, so I made it my life's mission to create the most amazing custom-made jeans in the world using ONLY a single stitch sewing machine. Why? Because jeans should be made in detail by 1 person per customer and not 20 people in a factory to create hundreds of pieces of denim in a day. And that's why I created this course.

This course will provide you with the knowledge in creating a pair of jeans using a single stitch sewing machine. In this course, you will NOT need a double stitch sewing machine. You will NOT need a serger or overlock machine. You will NOT need a feed-off-the-arm sewing machine. You will NOT need a bar tacking machine. You will absolutely NOT need to use any complicated machines at all. This course has been designed to teach people at all levels regardless of their knowledge in sewing. You will learn to sew your jeans starting from getting the right measurement, making the pattern, and sewing the garment to create that pair of jeans that you've been dreaming of. THIS is the course that you need!

Meet Your Teacher

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Fred Deocariza

Stop Buying. Start Creating.

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Hello, I'm Fred.

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Level: All Levels

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Transcripts

1. Class Intro: Hi, I'm afraid the Ocarina. And I make fats, lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots of fats from heavyweight pants, the lightweight pants, camo pants, bonds with Bob's face or pants with sql stands for tracking, binds with buckets and your lap board. It's very popular pair of pants called regular pants, or even past with six different pockets like what I'm wearing now, where you can put your two hands and forced stuff, toys. I guess what I'm saying is that if you know how to make pants, you have options. So I made an online course to help every one rate up their pants that easy way and the right way. This course is 100% risk-free. See are covered by a 30-day money-back guarantee. No questions asked. Yes. You will learn how to make plans for kids to enroll now, and I'll see you on the inside. 2. Different Tools: This time will be, this time I'll show you the tools. So you have your pair of scissors, so you have one for cutting the pattern, and you'll have one for cutting the fabric. So it should be separate to make sure it is accurate. Next thing we need that's important would be the meter stick. So if we're making a path there and you'll be drawing long lines. So this will really help. You can use a ruler, but maybe a challenging, but so do it. But if you want to make your life easier. Meter stick is important. Now for measuring the person's body or anything that is not straight. You can use a tape measure and it's very important as well. Next thing you need a pencil. In order for you to make a pattern or a flat pattern, you need a pencil. In this course I'll be using a marker so you can easily see the pattern. You will also be needing clips. You can use spins, but I prefer to use clips because it's easy to attach and it's easy to remove. We will also be using a hammer. So this is Slater if we're going to punch a hole in the buttonhole. So we need that. And what comes with? The hammer would be a set that they see the punch a hole. So you can just use a knife or a pair of scissors to cut the hole. But again, if you have to make your life easier, you can use a set and the whole garment. We can insert the buttons. And then you can use the hammer to hammer. It will also be needing a tracing paper. In this case, I use Manila paper because it's very easy to cut and it's not that expensive. Again, you already have your pair of scissors for cutting pattern pieces and also the garment. You may also be needing this dot, this work nothing to thread through all your sewing. So that's also important. Then other things that you will be needing that's not really, I mean, it's not really required. Would be a comma or a French curve and the hip for. So these things will be used for growing a pattern. It's curvy. So this one is a hip curve, so it's used from waste. And I think the hip connecting to the thigh down to the knee. Depending on the height of your, of the person or the length of the genes that you're making. And this one is normally used for the crotch length or the front or the back. You'll also be using a siem Reaper, not this. If you make a mistake, it will be your best friend. It will make a repeat seams easily. You also need a magnetic seems. So this is where sewing. So you can place this besides presser foot so that you can really measure the stitch from the edge. Again, you don't need this, it's optional. Next is we need different kinds of presser feet. Now, you can create a bare pass, you seeing only a standard presser foot. But again, if you want to make our life easier, different kinds of presser feet would help you in achieving a stitch that you want. And of course, most importantly, the threads. So you need threads to so the pattern pieces. So again, if the government is 12 pounds and above, you can use sticky 25 or pick a therapy. If the government is thin, like tall pound sign below, you can use higher tickets like ticket 75 to a 100, 20 ticket to a 100 if there is one. So that's that. So again, the thin their dad garment, the higher ticket, the thicker the garment, the smaller ticket. This is pretty much the things that you'll be using in order for it to create a perfect pair of jeans. If you're a dilemma because you don't have all these things and you only have a few of these. What are the things they really need to create one pair of genes. So in this case, you need a thread. You need a pair of scissors, pencil. This is important. These are different kinds, so presser feet. Yes, use a standard presser foot. This is important because you need to attach the garments. This is also important that this, this, and this may not be needed as well. So, so these things are optional and these things are important. 3. Understanding the Measurement: So right now, I'm going to explain to you the measurement and the different types that you can see in the tape measure, ruler, or a meter stick, whatever type of measurement you're using. So these are the following measurements with its equivalent. So we have here to decimal numbers where if you're the 16th, this is 1 16th, 3 16th, 3 16th up to 1516. These are actually within one inch. And this is for the eighths, one-eighths, three-eighths, or eight, up to seven-eighths. Then we also have the force which is 1424341 inch if you include it. And therefore the tools we have 1.5. We, we actually use also the time, the eighths, which is 1 eighth of an inch to an inch, three eighths of an inch, up to seven eighths of an inch. So for the columns here to decimals, these are for the inches. So this is 16th of an inch. This is eighth of an inch. This is fourth of an inch and an inch. And these are the equivalent. So 0.0625 is equivalent to 1 16th of an inch. 0.125 is equivalent to 2 16th of an inch and 1 eighth of an inch. And eventually, all of these rows are all the same. If they belong to one row, they have all the same measurement. For example, 1.551 is equivalent to 2 fourth of an inch or eighths of an inch, 8 16th of an inch, and 0.5 if we're going to use this a lot. Now how would this look? In a ruler or a tape measure or a meter stick? So depending on what you have, this essentially how it would look. Let me scroll up. So I have here the measurement for the inch. So as you can see, there are four images, all about one inch. So if we're going to start with 16th of an inch, this is how it would look. So starting from 0, it's 1 16th to 1616416 up to 1516. And then one inch. If you're going to use one or the fourth, one inch and two inch, it would look like this. 1 fourth is here. This is actually 2 fourth of an inch, but it is equivalent to 1.5 of an inch. Then this is 3 fourth of an inch, then this is one inch. If you look at it, 8 16th of an inch, It's the same with 1.5 of an inch or 2 fourth of an inch if we go down to our graph. So take note eighth, 16th of an inch and 1.5 of an inch or two for the one-inch. Let's go down to our graph. So 1.5 is the same with the fourth of an inch, or eighths of an inch and 8 16th of an inch and 0.5. So there they are in the same column or absurd, they are in the same row. That's why we have the same measurement. So see, it's 16th of an inch is the same with 1.5. And then if we're gonna go with the eighths of an inch, we have 0. This is 1 eighth of an inch to three-eighths up to 78. And then this is where the decimal 0.6250, five up to 0.9375. So if this, this will, this will be available as a resource. So I will suggest you download this and print it. So if ever you will be in a situation or any help to convert the measurement. You can just look into this resource so that it will help you to get the measurement faster. So again, these are the different measurements in inches and also in decimal. 4. Basic Body Measurement: Okay, right now, I will be discussing how to use the basic body measurements sheets. So this is a sheet that you can download. It's very easy to use because I already added a formula. So this is a Google sheet. You don't need to request access because this will be available if you have the length. So what do you need to do is once you have this yes click file and then make a copy. And then once you make a copy, you can now use the formula or use the sheet. So you can easily get the measurements for your pants. So, but before we go to the measurement sheet, let me go ahead and discuss first the parts of the pants so that you'll have an idea as to why we are measuring this part only. So let's start first with the front. So as you can see here, in the front, we have the front crutch. So this is from the waist down to the bottom of your front rach. And then this is only one measurement, which is for the front crutch. Now for the waistline, there are actually four parts. So let's go to the image to the right. So therefore parts actually got the front pants into, the back pants into as well. So the reason why there are four parts of your wasted because there's right front, left, front, left back, and write back. So there are four parts of your waist. And in this case, we're only going to get the 1 fourth of your front and also 1 fourth of your back. That is, if we're going to make the pattern. Next we have the hip. Also therefore parts of your hip. There is the right front, left, front, left back, and write back. So there are four parts. And we're also going to get 1 fourth of the front and 1 fourth of the back. This is during pattern-making. Next word, the knee. There are actually two parts only. There is 1.5 of your front and then 1.5 of the back. So we're only going to get two parts are one of the two parts of your knee. This is the d stands for diameter in case you would like to announce its diameter, it can be also used as a, you could also use knee circumference. Next we have the foot or the hem. This is 1.5 foot because again, there's the front and there's the back. So we're getting 1.5 of the front and 1.5 of the back. This is during pattern-making. Then on the right side of your front pan, we have the rice. Rice is from your waistline down to the last part of your seat. Or C part. Because if you're sitting down, you're gonna measure it from the waist down to the bottom or down to your seat part. Next we have the knee length. L stands for length. So we have the knee length. So that's from the waist down to your knee. It will be explained in detail as to how to get the length of your knee. If you're only measuring the pants and not the actual person. It will be discussing the succeeding videos. Next, we have the length of your pants, so that's from the waistline down to the ham. Please take note that there is a two inch hem extension. We don't formally or I don't normally add the two and shame extension in the in the measurement because it comes automatic, like there's always the same extension. You can also make it three inches depending on the style. So this is the length. Then for the back, we have the back scratch, which is from the waist down to the bottom of your back stretch. This is how it would look. When doing the pattern-making. We're only measuring the half of the front and a half of the back. So another, this is explained. Let's now go to the measurement sheet. So this is the measurement sheet that I created. So this is a Google sheet file. So you can easily just make a copy. And then you use this. This is the basic measurement sheet. This is normally what you'll be using. This is black. This is black. This is for your front pattern. It's also black and black pattern. This is black. There is a formula that they created at the bottom, so that all you have to do is just put the measurement and it will automatically compute for their result. You don't have to touch these parts. Divide by n, the result because there is a formula in the result and divide by is already set. So do not touch these parts. Same thing with this. There is a formula in this part. This one is set, so then attach it. Same thing with your backpack there and there is a formula here. And there is a this one is set already. So if you look here in the waste, there is 40 inches for your waist. If I'm going to remove this, Let's see. I'll change this to 35. If I'll change this 35, take note that this thing, the result will change for the whole buddy group. The front pattern group, and the back pattern. I'll change this. So 35, you will see the changes. So it changed to a 0.757.759.75. So the only parts here that you will be changing would be the total column in the whole body grew. So and I'll explain as to how I came about with this formula or with the results. So let's change this back to 40. So remember earlier that your waistline, there are four parts, right? So that's why we're going to divide it by four. So you have 40 or the waste, it's divided by four because again, there are four parts of your waist right there, right front leg, front, left back, and write back. So it's divided by four and our result is stent. Now for that, then that will be your front and your back pattern. So this is only for the 1.5 front and 1 fourth, 1 fourth, 1 fourth back. That's right. So you can see that the waste is 1 fourth year. Same thing with the back. So if you have the result, a span in your front pattern, you did that one. So n minus one will become nine. And since we deducted one, we're going to add that one to your back pack. Just 1 fourth, the entire waistline. So result again, then plus one will become 11. Whatever you did up from your waist, from your front, you add it to your back. Does this simple. So same thing here with your hips. So whatever you were deducted here will be added to the back. Whatever is deducted from crutch will be whatever is split up into the Frank brush will be added to the block. There is already a formula, so just don't touch these parts. Just leave it as is. If you want. You can just remove all parts. And you will see that results changed to 0. The results here is the reflection of this one. Same thing here. So it's very easy. All you have to lose this, get the measurement and then just type it right away. It will just fill the results. See a riotous 11 hip is I don't know, 1550. If your client is really that big, crotch length is 13, knee length is 21. The diameter or circumference is, let's see, 22. The length of your past, let's say Sport B and your hand or your foot. Let's say it's 20. That's it. All the other leaves us with the number enter and it will auto populate. So that's how easy it is. And then you can print it so that you can present to your client. And they will be a maze because your computation is very formal and it looks nice as well. So that's it. So this is how you use the basic body measurement. If you have questions, just feel free to send me a message. 5. Measuring the Pants: So what do we will be doing is we'll be getting the measurement directly from the plants. So this is the verb band stat that I created. This is actually a defense in the course. Okay? The first thing that we're going to measure is the waistline. So this is the waistline. So make sure that it is locked. So make sure it is spread evenly or properly. So to get the measurement is you just start measuring from the DIP or from the edge upto the other end. So as you can see, I'm not sure if you can see it on the camera, but the measurement from here to here is 20 inches. Now, this is only one part of the waistline. So what you do is you multiply it by two, so 20 times two, it would be 40 inches. So the waistline is 40 inches. The next thing we're going to measure is the length. Length of that bad. So make sure it is flat on the table. And then starting from the waistline, you go down to the bottom. And the measurement is third is 7.5 inches. Now please take note that there is a two inch ham extension. So it would be 39 inches and half. So 39 and a half inches. So again, the length of the pants is 37.5 inches. Ham extension is additional two inches, so that wouldn't be 39.5 inches. So we have the waistline and we have the height I'm sorry, the length of the fence. Next thing we're going to get this the hip. So to get the hip and just make sure that if this spread out, That's it, pull it from end to end. So what you do is you get the longest or the biggest part of the hip. So let's see. So this one is 20. Okay. Just move it until you get the biggest part. Okay. I guess the biggest disk don't need to. So the hip is 20 inches. So again, this is only 1.5 of the hip. So we multiply this by two. So 22 times 2 is 44, so the hip is 44 inches. Next thing we're going to get the right answer, or the rice. Now, the Reiser is measured when a person is sitting down. That's how you measure it when you're actually measuring the person. So you you let him sit down and then you measure from the waistline going to see bark. So that's the riser. So in this case, since we cannot let this Bear fan sit down, we're just going to fold the crotch length. I'm sorry, the front crush, this is your front crutch. So we're just going to fold it like this. And then from the waistline, front waistline, we're going to measure it, the wing down to D. So the end of the front crutch. And as you can see, it's 11 inches. So this is the Reiser is 11 inches. Okay. So again, from the Wasteland going to the last part or to the end of the front crutch. So this is your right, sir. Next thing we're going to measure is the front crutch. Now, this is the Reiser from here to the waistline. This is the front crotch. That's not curve. So we're going to measure the curve like so. And as you can see, the front curve is 12 inches. We can also warp the tape measure. We're going to let it stand like that. So it's easier. That's it. It's still have inches. So that is sort of front curve. Now since we have the friend curve, I'm sorry, at the Franco, since we have the front crotch, we're going to get the back for ACh. So up to get the black crutch or just again, turn it around. Like this. So you make sure that you can see the center or where the front underbar carriage with me. So you make sure it's there. Make sure it is flat on the table as much as possible, make it flat as possible. And then you measure starting from the black ways, going down to the center, and it is 15 inches so that they see or Bob crutch. Now if we're going to add your back on the front crotch. Crotch is 12, is 15, so that would be 27 inches. So that's your crotch length. And we're going to flip it over. So this is the position of the plants on the table. If we're going to measure it, it's always like this. So you always pull the crotch part, make sure you can lay it on the site. Either side is fine. So again, we measure the waist and measured the length plus the extension. Will measure the hip. We measure the Reiser. And then we measure D, the crotch, the front crutch, and the background. Next thing we're going to do is we're going to measure the thigh. So that's dy It's normally three inches from the line. This is actually your crotch line. So your eraser, your Reiser. This is eraser, right? So your Reiser sits on your couch line. So from your crutch line, you just measure three inches down. So from the crunch line measure three inches down and that is her hip. And her hip. So it's always three inches down. If you're basing it on up arrow plants. But of course, if you are the person in front of you, you can just measure it. But if it's not the round end, do that thing. So that's where the thigh measurement or the thigh circumference. Next thing that we're going to get this, the mean length. So the length is a measurement from the waist down to the knee. So again, the person is not reduced. So you measure the length, which is 37.5, right? What you do is you get the center. If you have a tape measure, It's easy. So you just fold it there. So this is the center of your parallel paths. And then once you do this, and then get three inches from the center down, so it's 18.5. So the three inches down is 1925, 20.521.5. So this is going to be your knee, which is 21.5. So 21.5, 125 from the waistline. The reason why we're giving it three inches extra is we have to put into consideration when a person is sitting down. So when the person is sitting none, you can see the bands will rise. That's why sucks would appear gray. So we always give me three inches extra. So so to get the knee length measured or get the center of the length I'm sorry, get this right yet the center of the length of the pants and then add three inches. And that would be the position of your knee. Now, let's do that again. So from the waste, get the center, it's 37.5. We fold it in half. So this is this is the center. And then we add three inches. So 19.5255.12.5. Now this is it would be good if you have a marker. I'm at a if you have a clip. So you can just clip it like so. Same thing on the other end. 1.5. So you use both clips on either end. The level. Then put a clip here. So you already have your knee. Your knee circumference is 12 and two eighths of an inch, 12 and 20 eighths of an inch. So again, this is only half, so you have to multiply it by eight. So that would be 244 eighths of an inch. That's the circumference over ni. Now that we have that, we're going to get the circumference. Circumference is easy because it's already here. It's just have to measure it. So from n to n, It is eight inches. So we're going to multiply this by two. And it would be 16. So your ham circumference is 16 inches. Next thing we're going to get is we're going to get in seeing. So you start from the center and then you measure going down, going down to the ham. And it is 26.5 inches. So that's your inseam. So of course, there's only one part, so you can multiply that by two. And you've got, you have the full length of the inseam. Again. Just a recap. So we measure the waistline, the hip, the Reiser. So from the waist down here. And then the front crotch length. We also measured the back scratch length. Then we get the thigh, the ham, and also the knee length. And we also did the scene. So that's how to get the measurement directly from the pants. And when you do that, you will absolutely create a duplicate out that pants. 6. Measuring the Person's Body: So this time we will be measuring the body of a person. So the first part that we're going to measure is the waistline. So in this case, what we need to do is we're going to ask the person to turn sideways, so okay. And then most of the time, the waistline is based on the person's spouse or whatever he is wearing, he would just basis waistline from Hispanic. But if if the person will ask like, where is the waistline? Normally is? And the waistline is normally level to the elbow. So you just ask the person to level or bent his arm 90 degrees. And this is the waistline is level to the elbow. And as you can see, his path is also level to his elbow. So that's the time we're going to get the measurement. So the tape measure. And then you get the measurement. So you have the option to really get the actual measurement, or you insert three fingers so that there is extra space. So you put three fingers to give it extra space for the waistline. And I would advise that you put three fingers in the measurement because normally for denim, it's shrinks as you wash it. So I would suggest you give it extra space so when it shrinks, it won't be too tight toward a person. So that is where the waistline. And I would suggest if the person is not wearing a pair of pants, for example, if you're measuring a woman, you put marks are clips so that you will know where the waistline is. In this case, he doesn't need clips because it's already wearing a pair of pants. So the next thing that we'll be measuring is the length of the plants. So normally the length of the path is, again, you ask the person how long you want the balance to be. But in this case will just be measuring the actual plants. So it's from the waistline down to the floor. So migraine. So we're going to measure from the waistline down to the floor. So that's the measurement for length of the path. But then again, you ask your client how long he wants it to be, because some people would like to fold it to show the Solving the salvage line. If the salvage so we have the waste, we have the length. Next thing we will be measuring is the is the hip line. So it's this part right here. It's the biggest part of the hip. So we'll just going to measure the person. Normally what you do is you just find the biggest part of the hip. So you can just move your tape measure. So again, you put three fingers inside while you're measuring. There's extra space in case you know that the animal shrink after you wash it. So that's for the hip line. Next thing we will be measuring is the Reiser or the right. So in this case, we would ask the person to sit down so that we can measure it properly. So in this case it'll be asking the person to sit down so that we can really measure the rice. Rice is from your waistline down to your seat. And their purpose way we're letting the person sit down so that we will measure the actual rice for the actual measurement when that person is sitting down wearing the pants. So again, the measurement is from the waistline. So from the waist line going down to the C part. So that's how to get the rice. So this time we'll be measuring the crutch length. So the length is from your waistline, from your waistline going to your crotch and then up to your back waistline. So we're going to insert the tape measure starting from the bottom. So we're going to get the measured up front waistline and then we're going to go up to the waistline. So you ask the client like, how big do you want your crotch length to be? It's always it's always dependent on your client. But if you so k would be the one to measure it, then you can measure it appropriately. So it's from the front waistline going down and then up to your back waistline. So this time we'll be measuring the inseam. So the inseam is the seam inside of your pants. So if we're going to be measuring, it will only be measuring 1.5 of it. So it's only one side, this side or this side. So you should always start from the top where the front crotch and the background should meet. So since this is a sensitive part, you don't put your tape measure holding with your finger so close to the sensitive part, what you do is you use a use a ruler. So normally. So you make sure it's the same length, it has its position in the same measurements. So for your ruler you have one up to three inches. So make sure it is on the same level, same position. And then you put your finger on the third inch. And this is the part that will go directly to the crutch. So, so you can see your fingers away from the from the crutch. So once you measure that, you go down and then you have, you have your measurement. So again, use a ruler if we're going to measure the scene. So for the knee length, just a person is in front of you. You can just and you can see that this is the neat part. So measure from the waistline, I got from the waistline, go into the knee. So this is the neat part. So that's how you measure the knee and then you get the nice circumference. Again, it's dependent on the person how circumferences. But if he doesn't know, if he will just let if he will just allow you to measure it, you can just put three fingers inside so that there is extra space, if ever they will shrink. And then you have the net, the ham, which is the last part. So the ham always ask your client, but if he will just let you be the one to decide for the measurement, you just split again three inches, I'm sorry, 333 fingers. So that there is an extra space. 7. Course Review: Hi guys, it's me, Fred. And I'm checking on you to see if you have questions or if there's anything that's confusing about the course, just feel free to send me a message. Also, I would like to ask for a review about my course. This is my way to find out if there's anything that I need to improve on. And also for me to gauge if, to see if the course is really good for all my students. Again, you can leave already V right now I believe the link or the button it says available above the video. Or you can just sweep for free to finish up the entire course and then leave a review. Either way, it's fine. So I'm going to leave you now so that you can continue with the course. 8. Pants Pattern (Segment) v00 viewing: So before we start with the pattern-making, I just would like to point out the following. So in this video, you will see that the pants will be drawn horizontally oriented. The top part of the plants would be in your left view, and the bottom part of the paths would be on your right. The right side of the paths will be on top, and the left side of the pants would be at the bottom in this video. So I just would like to point that out so you'll not be confused. If I will say something, we're going to draw this in the right side of the pants. So when I saved, it will be in the right center, the bass. It means that it's going to be on the on your top viewing. And then if I say that is at the bottom, we're going to draw something at the bottom of the pants, then it'll be on the right view of this video. So I just want to point that out so you will not be confused. So let's now proceed to the pattern-making. 9. Pants Pattern (Segment) v01 crease line of the pants OR center of the tracing paper: Lay the pattern or tracing paper flat on the table or floor or wherever you want to make your pattern. As long as it's a flat surface and you can draw the pattern properly. We're going to start with the length of the pants, which includes the foot or ham extension. We're not using the exact length measurement of the pants yet. From the edge of the pattern or tracing paper, we're going to mark the spots of the center of the paper so we can make a straight line. It is important to have a meter stick. You can make long straight lines. The line should reach the bottom of the paper, which would be on the right side of your view. That's your hem extension. You can extend the line to reach both ends of the paper or just until the top of your pants length. If you're making a pair of dress bands, this line will be your crease line. 10. Pants Pattern (Segment) v02 hem and hem extension of the pants: The ham extension is two inches from the bottom of the paper. Martin dust spots. So you can use it to draw a straight line for your ham. Draw your Hamline, just make a long line, since we're not using any measurement for now. 11. Pants Pattern (Segment) v03 length of the pants: We're now going to measure the length of the pants from the Hamline to the waistline. The ham extension is not included in the measurement. We're going to mark the spots again so we can make a straight line, which will be your front waistline. No measurement is added yet. We will add it later. When you make a straight line without measurement, you're going to draw it long enough to reach both ends of the paper. Or just make sure that the line is long enough to fit whatever parts of the plants you're making. 12. Pants Pattern (Segment) v04 riser OR crotch line of the pants: From the waistline measure the length of your Reiser. Mark. Does spots where the straight line draw the straight line which is now your crutch line. No measurements. Yep. Just the straight line. Again, the land can be long enough to reach both ends of your paper, or just long enough to fit the parts you're making. 13. Pants Pattern (Segment) v05 hip line of the pants: From the crunch line going up three inches for the hip line, it can be two inches depending on the height of the person. Mark the spot. So as always, to use as a guide to making a straight line. Draw your hip line. 14. Pants Pattern (Segment) v06 thigh line of the pants: Measure three inches. Mark despots, and then draw a dotted line. 15. Pants Pattern (Segment) v07 knee line of the pants: From the waistline measure the length of the name. Martin dust spots. Without any measurements? Yep. 16. Pants Pattern (Segment) v08 hem to hem extension: We're now going to get the measurement of the front. Get the half of the front ten measurements. You can do that by computing it or by folding the update measure in half once you get the front-end measurement. But if you don't want to compute it, so you can just use the tape measure, gets seven inches and then fold it in half. The center of the front hand measurements should be in the center of the pattern. So 1.5 is on one side and the other half is on the other side. Mark does spots for the ham. Mark those spots where to connect the extent of an inch on both sides of the head extension to mark the spots? Both ends of the ham and the two eights extension of your hem extension. We do the two-eighths extension in the Ham extension so that when we fold the ham extension going up to the hem during sewing, we will not run out of fabric. Then it behaves differently during sewing. So you will understand more about this when you're sewing the denim. 17. Pants Pattern (Segment) v09 knee diameter: And get the measurement of the front knee and divided by, again, you can just fold up tape measure as soon as you get the measurement to find the center. That's the first half. And the other half. Make sure those spots are visible. 18. Pants Pattern (Segment) v10 thigh diameter why it needs to connect to the crotch and back hip: We're getting the measurement of the same process folded they've measured to get the center. This process is better if you don't want to compete in your head. Your front crush line and front side line should have the same measurement. The reason why we're doing this is to make sure that the thigh will fit in the crotch line, which is also known as the leg opening. If you're crouched line is smaller than your thigh line, then you will not be able to get the thigh through the crunch line again, which is your leg opening. For training purposes. I am connecting the crutch line and the thigh line on the right side. And I am connecting the thigh up to the hip line on the left side. This is just to show you that the thigh will fit the leg opening. You don't normally connected in actual pattern as long as you get the measurement right in the left side, I connected it up to the hip line. Because if this where we will start with the front hip line. 19. Pants Pattern (Segment) v11 hip diameter connect to crotch to become the center front: Starting from the left side of your front hip line, which is on the same level with your thigh line, you get the measurement of your front hip will mark a spot in the front crunch line. This is only so we can make a straight line. We'll make a straight line from the crunch up to the waistline. 20. Pants Pattern (Segment) v12 CENTER FRONT: We'll make a straight line for our center front. That's our center of R1. 21. Pants Pattern (Segment) v13 waist: We're going to add two eighths of an inch extension above the waist for the curve of the front waist. I'm just marking the spots so I can make a straight line. 86 tension is in preparation for the front and back better and to connect smoothly. You're going to start with your front waist measurement from area or center, front and front waistline would mean That's the starting point. When your tape measure hits the center of your pattern. You then start the curve so that your front waste would end up to 86 tension. We draw the front waistline, blend the line or curve. 22. Pants Pattern (Segment) v14 front crotch: We have our front waist already. We're now going to get our crops length or front rise from the waist or measure the length of the curve from the hip. And then line with your measurement. You may also stand your tape measure, so you can do the curve. This is called Walking that they've measure. The measurement is correct. Now it's time to draw the curved line between your hip. When making a curve, make sure it is not a perfect curve because if it is, your crotch will wrinkle when summed together. So we don't want that. 23. Pants Pattern (Segment) v15 connect all the points to complete the front pattern: It's time to connect all the dots. These are all straight lines for now, or curved lines after. 24. Pants Pattern (Segment) v16 blend the sharp corners: It's time to blend the lines and we'll use a hip curve. So the curve will be from the waist down to the knee. From the knee down to the hem is just a straight line. Next curve is from the crunch line where your front crutch length ended down to your knee frame, your knee down to the haem is just a straight line. The difference of the straight and curved lines may not be apparent, but it will make a huge difference later when cutting the paper. 25. Pants Pattern (Segment) v17 marking the size of the back pattern from hem extension up to thigh: We will now mark the spots where the pattern will just add one inch on each side from the ham extension up to the thigh. I'm using a different color marker so you will be able to identify the front and back patterns. 26. Pants Pattern (Segment) v18 back crotch line: The bottom line is below the line by half an inch because the length is longer than the front. 27. Pants Pattern (Segment) v19 back hip line: The measurement of the back hip line will start from where your center front and hip line would mean. Let's start the measurement. 28. Pants Pattern (Segment) v20 preparing for the back waist by extending 2 inches above: We're now preparing for the back waste from the original waistline, measure two inches and going up. The reason why we go up two inches is because the back crutch length is two inches longer than your front crutch length. Also, this will make sure that your buttocks will not be seen when you sit down wearing the genes. Make a straight line. 29. Pants Pattern (Segment) v21 back crotch: Measure one inch from your waistline center front, and mark the spot. When measuring the length. The one that we just mark. The end of the hip line. When you pass through all that, you can start with a curve and you can walk your tape measure. Use a comma or a fashion curve for the curve and make sure that the curve is not a perfect word. To avoid wrinkles. 30. Pants Pattern (Segment) v22 back waist: For the back ways, connect from the highest point from the right down to 86 tension to the left. 31. Pants Pattern (Segment) v23 connect the other points to complete the back pattern: We're now going to connect the dots to complete the pattern. We're going to start from the wastes to extension down to the back hip line and then to the High Line. There's no bar crotch line on this side. Connect to the mean down to the ham extension and then from the other side of the head extension going up to the crunch line. 32. Pants Pattern (Segment) v24 blend the sharp corners of the back pattern: Starting from the waste. Just take your time. The other side. 33. Pants Pattern (Segment) v25 mark the waistband so you will not be confused: This includes the one eighths of an inch waist band. Let's mark it for both front and back patterns. So we will not forget that. 34. Pants Pattern (Segment) v26 cutting the whole pattern: Don't have a seam allowance yet, except for the waste been part of an inch seam allowance. So that you will see where everything is coming from. When you master making this type of pattern, you will not need to include the 14. 35. Pants Pattern (Segment) v27 tracing the back pattern: Make sure it is lying flat on the table. In this part, I will use my mark spots. If you have a tracing, it will be easier. I'm not using a self-healing, so I will just mark it with a marker. Connect the dots. 37. Pants Pattern (Segment) v29 cutting the pocket: We will now measure the front pocket. The size of the pocket normally is the size of your hand from the pinky side to the thumb side, which will be the opening or the length. And then half of your hand will be the height. I prefer a bigger pocket opening, so I'll just have the same measurement for the length and height of the pocket. Mark the spot so you can connect the dots. Draw a curve. Because that will be used later on, the measure of your pocket. 38. Pants Pattern (Segment) v30 back yoke: We'll start with drawing the wasteland so we will know that there's a waist measurement. There's no rule where normally the measurements starts from the bottom of the wasteland. We'll use another, complete the look of the body. We'll trace the pattern. Let's mark the center. Let's go down from the center of the bottom of the line. We'll make a curve. Bottom corners. And the reason why it's not there for design. Let's also mark the bottom of the waste fat so we know that it is there. Let's Mark 14 down from the top of the waistline. Let's go. The final boss. 39. Pants Pattern (Segment) v31 back pocket: Let's make a straight line. It will be the center. The size of the bucket will depend on the reference or your clients. The bottom of the bucket. There's an easier way to do it. The sides are completely from the bottom. Go up one from both sides. 40. Pants Pattern (Segment) v32 watch pocket: From your boss to measure how you want to watch pocket. The process is the same with the mop bucket. 41. Pants Pattern (Segment) v33 waistband: Draw another straight line by using this side of the paper. That straight line will be the center. We will use only half of the total length of the waist band with additional 3 inches on either side. This is so that your waist band will be added six inches in length in the finished pattern. For the size or total height of the pattern, it will be six inches. Why? It is? Because earlier in the front and back patterns, we included the waist band, which is 1 and 4, 8, 7 inch. So the seam allowances for either side is 14 eighths of an inch, which sums up to three inches. Then the height of the waist band is 14 eighths of an inch aswell. So we need two of that. So that's another three inches. So three inches for the seam allowances and three inches for the height of the waist band. And the total is six interests. 42. Pants Pattern (Segment) v34 pocket bag: And use it to trace the side of the bucket bag weights on it so it will not move. The pattern pieces together for easy tracing. From the center of your front. Measure one inch to the right. Start making the spots, in this case, the bottom of the wasteland and the opening to the side. Measured the length of the bucket will depend on the basic pocket-size normally is where you can put your whole fist inside the pocket. Mark the bottom of your pocket. We're going to connect the dots for your pocket. Bye. We will use a hip curve to connect the side of your pocket. We are going to get the distance between the bottom of the pocket bag and the edge or the left side of the paper. So we can have a straight line. Next, we will get the distance between the top of the pocket bag and the edge or bottom of the paper. So we can draw a straight line. We'll continue connecting the dots. We will draw the waistline so we will know that it is there. Or marking the parts of the bucket. We're going to mark the side of the pocket bag that we will be done so you can easily turn your bucket inside out when your pair of jeans is complete. This will also help minimize the thickness of your site. 43. Pants Pattern (Segment) v35 pocket facing: Base our pocket facing. The same cutoff will also be used for later on. When we are tracing the pattern on the fabric. Start the trace. Eighths of an inch. Just connect the dots. 44. Pants Pattern (Segment) v36 fly guard and facing: Bring your front hand pattern again to measure the fly area. Put weights again so it will not move any weights will do. You can use the book. Islam, is it savvy enough to put your pattern in place? The length of your fly facing or extension will be based from the distance between the waist band down to the hip line. It would be difficult for you to fold the facing once it is in the curve of the front crotch length. The length of the facing is 54 eighths of an inch. Let's draw a five eighths of an inch line. The width is 14 eighths of an inch. Let's put a curve. You may also not put it if you'd prefer. The fly facing pattern will now draw the fly guard, will put it side-by-side with the facing for easy measuring. The fly guard is four eighths of an inch longer AND gates of an inch wide facing. The reason why is because the flight guard will hide the facing. When we turn the genes inside. This is to me. It is two inches wide. The fly facing and the fly guard will add to the pattern D 1487 inch so that it will match with the frontline pattern. If you look at the pocket facing and the pocket, but it also has the one measurement for the waste then the other pieces of the gene spider. 45. Pants Pattern (Segment) v37 cutting the other parts into segments: We're going to go into different parts. I don't use this entire space of the pattern paper when I make a pattern for my clients. This is only for the course. So you can see it clearly. 46. Pants Pattern (Segment) v38 cutting the watch and back pockets pattern pieces: Slowly, make sure the folder center or the center of the paper. We'll cut the bottom. We'll do the same process with the center of the pattern. I'm not the center of the paper. On the watch. 47. Pants Pattern (Segment) v39 cutting waistband pattern paper: The Wasteland pattern is the same process, would watch pockets. You fold it in the center of the battery and then start cutting clips on the paper. It will stay in place if need be. The Wasteland. 48. Pants Pattern (Segment) v40 pocket bag and its pieces: Facing background pieces. We're going to look up the bottom left of the bucket bags so it will not be sold to the side. See, later on, put weights if need be. I didn't put weights because it's just a small piece. Just a reminder that this is only half of the bucket, but this is how the pocket bug looks when it is folded in half. The bucket binding pocket facing. The bucket side from the earlier from the front band pattern. Pieces will add the watch pocket during sewing. 49. Pants Pattern (Segment) v41 cutting the fly guard and facing: Flight guard. The flight guard. The remaining paper off of the pattern piece. And fly guard. 50. Get More Patterns: Okay. So you were able to complete the pattern making, the flat pattern making. Now, if you want to check other patterns, you can go to my website, it's car, use a custom Dann im.com. Just type it in the browser. Let's wait for the page to load. And you will see here pattern block. Go ahead and click it. And I have a surprise for all my students here. So this is the master slash button block. Page I have here a pattern for fitted shirt gusher, the blazer, and on the right, you will see the prices. And if you want to buy everything, it's also available for $72. Now for all my students, use the promo code. Get 50, that's GET 50. And you will get this, or you will be able to buy all the patterns for half the price. So all you have to do is click by all patterns for $72 and wait for the checkout page. The next page you will see here Master block bundle for seven to $2. Click Buy Now. And then click got the code. And type GET in small caps and then five is 0. So get 50 is only one word. Click Add. And the discount will apply. From like 70.70, $75 dollars. You'll be able to get it at $36. So they'll forget the code. It's got 50. It applies to all transactions that you'll be doing on my website, which is Jakarta, is accustomed than m.com. So that's it. I'll leave you now so you can continue with your lesson. 51. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v01 preparing the fabric: This is the garment that we will use. It There's a non salvage. Then from top to bottom it is 60 inches and it is two meters long. This will fit a six-foot person. This is folded into half so that you will not have to cut all four parts of the pants separately. Make sure it is laying flat on the table. So you position the garment where the center fold is at the left side of the table. So in this video you will see it at the bottom. Again, this is a non selfish denim. If it is a salvage data, it will be positioned differently. 52. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v02 position the pattern on the fabric: We're going to place the pattern pieces on the garment so we will know how to position the pieces. I always start from top to bottom. In this video, you will see it from left to right. So at this where I start to place the pieces so I will have available space at the bottom later on in case I make a mistake. There's still extra requirement. Since this is a regular denim, we will not worry about the edge, so we will place the waist band on the edge of the garment. This is only half of the waist band. So when we are cutting the garment, we will cut the folded garment to get the full length of the waste. Then note that we will not add a seam allowance on the Garmin because if it's already in the waist band pattern, we will now position the front pan pattern. Since the top of the front pattern has a waist band measurement included already, that will serve as the seam allowance. So we will not put any space between the waist band and the front pattern on the garment. The front pattern will have a seam allowance over accept the top part. That is where the waist band and bottom part for the hem extension. Just measuring the distance of the pattern to the edge of the garment for the seam allowance. Next is the back pattern. Without a bad joke. There is a seam allowance all over except the ham extension. And making sure the hem extensions so the front and back patterns are parallel to each other as much as possible. Measuring the distance between the waist band and the backpacker and to make sure there's enough seam allowance. On the other side of the garment, we will start with the seam allowance all over except for where the wasteland is. The bucket bug will be traced on a different Garmin, a lighter and softer garment. Next, bucket is seam allowance all over. Then we have the watch bucket, the bucket site from the fly fly facing, and the bucket facing. 53. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v03 tracing the waistband: Since this is a non salvage, then I will place the waist band on the edge of the Garmin. Just mark the corner so the better and then trace it. This is your waistline. 54. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v04 tracing the front pant pattern: The front pattern. Make sure it is flat on the garment. Mark the corners. You can start tracing the curve using the pattern will match perfectly. Continue marking the corners. You can now remove the pattern piece and start connecting the dots. When you are done, check if it matches with the pattern piece. Make some adjustments. If need be. You can use as a guide in drawing the seam allowance. No need to use the tape measure. There is no seam allowance in the ham extension because the ham extension on the will serve as the seam allowance extension that we will continue until you reach the waistline. 55. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v05 tracing the back pant pattern: We're now facing the back. Make sure that the ham extensions for both front and back pain patterns are parallel to each other. Mark the points that you will use to connect later. It is time to connect the dots. Always begin with the straight lines because it's easier to connect. For the subtle curve lines. Winter trace. Make some adjustments. Time to make the seam allowance. Seam allowance on top because you will come up later during swallowing. As always, do the straight lines first with a ruler or a meter stick because it's easier. They're complete backpack. 56. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v06 tracing the back yoke: We are going to make sure it is flat on the table when you try to move them. Because the waist band is already added in this pattern. 57. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v07 tracing the back pocket: Mark the points to connect. The dots. Extended for two inches will serve as the seam allowance. Ones on top will be folded in. The normal extension is one inch, but I'm making it for a different style. We're now doing the seam allowance. Pocket. 58. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v08 tracing the watch pocket: The watch will have the same process like the top extension is one inch. The normal extension is one inch. Welcome. 59. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v09 tracing the fly guard and facing: The fly facing flight Guard will be done together twice the size of the flight guard. One. Right now, we will fold this in the middle. Then you will have a folder on both sides and four sides. Both sides. So the one inch extension on that we did earlier will become four. On both sides. We're getting the hang of this. We'll now add four inch for the fly facing. We will just trace it. The complete fly guard down fly facing, facing ones on the bottom. 60. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v10 tracing pocket side front: Mark the points to connect This part. We're going to extend one inch from the bottom. Going down. We are also adding one extension. Let us draw a curve similar to the pattern. 61. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v11 tracing the pocket facing: The bucket facing will be hidden inside the pocket with a pair of jeans is complete. When the pair of jeans is complete, mark the spots to connect, which will then be sold to the front. 62. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v12 cutting the pattern pieces to be traced accurately: The pieces are complete for this environment, we will now exist parts to make sure it is aligned properly. Let's clips on it. The next position. Part of this environment for the flight guard and fly facing pieces of the watch bucket. You may or may not put to watch pockets. It's up to you. Go ahead and complete the cutting of the wasteland. Since it's very easy to trace. Complete the remaining pieces. The front piece. 63. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v13 cutting the front pant pattern: Then just follow the lines. The front piece. 64. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v14 cutting the back pant pattern: Without the process is the same with the front. The back piece. 65. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v15 cutting the back yoke: We are now. 66. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v16 cutting the back pocket: We are now pocket piece. We will fold this in the middle, will cut the bottom. Buckets. 67. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v17 cutting the coin pocket: The process is the same. Buckets. Watch buckets. 68. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v18 cutting the fly guard and facing: First thing we'll do is separate the fly guard facing, then follow the lines. The fly garden on the fly facing. 69. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v19 cutting the pocket side front: The pocket piece. 70. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v20 cutting the pocket facing: The bucket the bucket facing. Mm-hm. 71. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v21 cutting the belt loop: We will use the bottom part of the extra fabric for the height of the belt loop is 14 eighths of an inch. Is not measured. But just make sure it is long enough for your needs. 72. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v22 check all the pattern pieces: It's time to check the pieces. The bucket. 73. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v23 preparation for the pocket bag: We're going to check the bucket and see if it matches. It all looks good. 74. Pants Pattern on a Fabric (Segment) v24 tracing the pocket bag: I'll be using for the bucket gloss in a way where it will fit the bucket. Seam allowance of the bottom only remaining seam allowance will be added later. Two pieces. We will add the seam allowance. Check if the bucket matches with the batter. On the bucket. The bucket facing to make sure the seam allowance will match with the bucket Bye. The inside of the block inside part. We will now got the bucket side front part. For our bucket opening. On the bucket. You need to make some adjustments. It looks good. Try it on the other side. The bucket bags. 76. Sewing Pants (Segment) v01 changing regular presser foot to 1 8 compensating presser foot: A compensating presser foot and it is one of the presser feet up I will be using. And so in the genes, the size is one eighths of an inch, which means that the distance, so this stitch from the edge of the garment is what. You can see, that the right side of the presser foot is lower than the left. That is because the lower part will maintain the garments distance of one. This is during stitching. So it has a spring in it so it adjusts Wellstone making it easier to use. Left and right compensating presser feet, the distance available is one, and it could be one 32 of an inch. This is to suit your needs during sewing. 77. Sewing pants (Segment) v02 ironing bias (with pinning): The first step in sewing jeans is showing the fly zipper. Right now we're going to iron the bias. We will use the bias for the flight guard and light facing. We will use a needle for this process. If you don't have a bias tape maker, we will fold the bias in half and iron in. The bias can be anything garment. We will only use the bias to cover the edges of the garment. Since we will not be, we're seeing a surgery or overlap machine. Iron it gently. Once that is done, fold again in half the two sides of the bias. It's where the needle comes in. We'll put the bias below the needle so we can maintain the shape of the bias. Here's a closer look after I have iron Tobias, how it goes is the needle goes over the bias and then we pulled the bias as we are ironing it. Let's go back to the process. Insert a small part of the bias, the iron and ironing, pull it for the next part will be iron. Make sure that the other side that has not been ironed get its position in the center. This is so we will have a good day. Pulled the bias again and then do this would be delete until you are finished. Folder bias in the center. The size of the bias is four eighths of an inch, which means if you will open the folder, you will have unfold bias. And we have over bias. 78. Sewing pants (Segment) v03 sewing bias to fly guard: We're now going to show the bias to the flight guard. First thing to do is teach the edge of the garden. This is the part of the fly guard that this open. The distance of the stitch from the edge is one because we're using a one compensating presser foot. You can cut the extra thread or hide it inside the folder. We'll open the bias to the flight guard. Will stitch the topmost because that's the start of the fold. That's how it would look after the first stitch. Will so the top crease and before reaching the edge. Well so a 45 degree angle go into the corner. We're going to start sewing two eighths of an inch inside the flight guard. The biased state will also extend to eighths of an inch outside of the fly guard. We're still using the compensating presser foot. You got to change it to standard presser foot if you prefer. Sewing the 45 degree angle. Now, we're going to cut the thread after the 45 degree angle. So we can do the next step. We're going to fold the bias in a 45 degree angle going up. The bias should be straight with the flight guard will fold down. The fold of the bias should be level with the flight guard. Will now stitch following the crease of the bias. So we begin the edge of the bias and fly guard. We're done with the first stitch. Cut. The extra bias on thread will hold a bias towards the other side. There are increases in the bias already, so folding will not be a problem. Folded properly for easy sewing. So it will look good. Foldy do eighths of an inch extension bias that we did earlier. The purpose of the extension is so that we can fold it later on during swallowing. This hides the edges and protects the bias from unraveling from the edge with the use of the aids compensating presser foot. You can use a regular presser foot by the way. So the compensating presser foot just makes this Vardy. That's why I prefer to use this. Please use a thread that matches with your bias. I'm just using a different color thread for this one. See, you will see it normally twofold the bias and the corner because it will be hidden in the Wasteland. Done with the second stitch. Simple, not before cutting the thread. Will show it again. This time it will be closer to the other edge of the bias, the thread before trimming it. And we have our complete fly guard with bias. 79. Sewing pants (Segment) v04 sewing bias to fly facing: We're now going to insert the phasing in the center of the foot clips on it so the bias will stay with the facing you. You can also use needles. Follow the curve. And the curve will use both our thumbs and index fingers. The breast of the bias. Put a clip on the curb, cut the extra bias. And we have our flight facing with bias. 80. Sewing pants (Segment) v05 sewing fly facing to the left front pant: It's time to so the flight facing to the left from the correct side of the facing and left front pan should be facing each other. That's the seam allowance. Will stitch inside the seam allowance and not on the seam allowance because we're going to fold the facing after. Stitch should begin at the center of the bias. Before cutting. The first fold. Facing is inside of the front pan. No part of the face and should be seen outside of your pants. We're going to start this ditch inside the wrong side of the front pan. This is to secure facing outside. And the one inside the bias. The extra thread and we have are facing to the left from plant. 81. Sewing pants (Segment) v06: We are facing we are going to mark the wasteland where the position the zipper, the correct side of the zipper shouldn't be facing the fly facing the metal part of the zipper is five inches long and it should not go beyond the waist band. Will start the stitch on the side of the zipper. The zipper should be inside the facing with one eighths of an inch of the face is showing on the left side of the zipper. For added security. We will fold the facing inside the left from the zipper is a batch. 82. Sewing pants (Segment) v06: I will be using a narrow presser foot or a zipper foot. I use this because I can see the stitch better when doing a double rows. You can also use a regular presser foot will draw the curved line. We will follow for the stitch. The curved line should not hit the metal, the zipper, so you will not break your needle. And we will use a paper clip to clip the left tail of the zipper. So it will not be called during sewing. You can also base did if you don't have a paperclip, a slope term of the edge, It's time to go back up for the double row. Get the perfect curve. But that looks good anyway. We just have to make sure that the second row is the same as the first. Okay? We have secure to facing inside the left from ban. 83. Sewing pants (Segment) v07: We'll also the fly guard and the right front plant at the same time that the zipper, That's the first stitch will do to attach both plants. And the right front pan test the seam allowance of four eighths of an inch. We will fold that bar and sew it on the side of the zipper. Make sure both pants up parts are on the same level. The side of the zipper will be in-between the right from Pan Am Flight guard. This part will be the right front pan. The middle is the site of the Zuber, and the bottom is the flight guard. Must be folded your insulin. I'm using a zipper presser foot. Use a matching thread when sewing this part. I'm only using a contrasting thread for training purposes. Just making sure that the right front pan is in place. The part of the seam allowance that this below the metal part of the zipper and that is still inside of the flight guard. Only clip the seam allowance part. Don't go beyond the seam allowance lie. Folds out that part of the seam allowance us. You can see the fly guard is below the metal part of the zipper and it this also below the seam allowance that you're clipped. That should be the position. Continuous sewing until you reach the fly guard. Known. So the folded scene. Turn it around. And so going up to the waist band. And you have a Dutch, the right front, the fly guard to the left, pan. 84. Sewing pants (Segment) v07: We're going to touch the bottom left of the fly facing and fly guard. The security guard in place. If your thread snaps, just salvage whatever remains in the thread. If not started from the beginning. This is one way to secure the flight guard. The other way is to do this on the front of the fly. 85. Sewing pants (Segment) v08 sewing front crotch: We're now going to solo the front crowd. The left forearm crutches seam allowance will be folded in while the right front purchase seam allowance will be folded out. We're going to mark the bottom part of the metal zipper, so we will not hit it during a sewing. We're measuring the distance of the metal zipper from the edge of the flight or flight facing. So ignore the marking on the right from the distance is five eighths of an inch. From the edge of the fly. We have five-eighths of an inch of space for us to run the stitch. This is the security front bands crutch. If he's so beyond the white line, you will hit the metal zipper and break your needle. So make sure not those BN dot point. We're going to base the front crutch for easy slowing. The seam allowances on top of each other. We're going to, so this barred from the bottom up to the fly, then down the bottom of the crunch. For now we'll just paste it. Let's trim the extra fabric. For your basting threads. Use a thin thread around 120 and then have two threads together. Foldy two threads together. So you have four threads in total. Right enough up and then pull it. The goal is to put the garments in place during swallowing. Away from the solid will not be doing. I'm using presser foot and you can also use a compensating presser foot or even a standard foot. Yours should meet with the bottom. The fly that we did earlier. You have 587 of a space before you hit the metal. So watch out for that. You have your completed just remove the base thing after. 86. Sewing Pants (Segment) v09 positioning of pocket parts: We're now going to position the buckets on the bucket. The bucket facing will be placed on one side In the side seam of the pants. The bucket facing will be placed in the bucket opening. Please note that the wrong side of the puppet side, front and bucket facing are the ones facing. The bucket by. The watch pocket will be placed on top of the pocket side front. This bucket is on the right side of your bands and so is your watch bucket. It will be position. 87. Sewing Pants (Segment) v10 ironing watch pocket: We are now ironing watch bucket. The purpose of this is to make this seam allowance this fold properly for easy sewing iron. This prior to making the video, the wrong side of the pocket should be facing up. You have 14 eighths of an inch seam allowance on top. First thing you do is iron. The upper half of this scene. Next is full does seems on the side. The final half of the coordinates of the seams on the side. You can start on either side. And then I learned, Given a long press on the wrong side and right side of the watch bucket. Watch pocket. 88. Sewing Pants (Segment) v11 sewing watch pocket for preparation to be sewn to the side front on th: We're now going to watch pocket. This is in preparation to be solved. On the bucket. I'm using a 1 eighth of an inch compensating presser foot. Hi, The threads inside the folder. The second stitch from the wrong side though the watch bucket. Make sure your thread or the same thread. Up stitch. Hi. In the left and right scenes. You're now ready to sew it on the bucket side front. 89. Sewing Pants (Segment) v12 sewing side front: We're sewing the bucket side. We're going to draw a curved line for five eighths of an inch from the edge of the bucket side front. That will act as a scene. We're going to, so following the curve line to attach the bucket side front to the bucket. Hi, threads behind the scene. To hide the rough edge. We're going to solo the fold. And you have your bucket side. 90. Sewing Pants (Segment) v13 sewing pocket facing: The bucket facing to the bucket opening. Draw a curved line for five eighths of an inch from the edge of the bucket. That will add another scene. So it will not move from its position. Hi, The threads inside the scene draw a curved line four or five eighths of an inch from the stitch. As another scene. We are not going to cut the curve. We're only getting the budget by cutting the bucket side front fold of the bucket. The bucket side front facing to the Bucket button. Next to be added is the watch bucket. 91. Sewing Pants (Segment) v14 sewing watch pocket on the side front of the pocket bag: Welcome to the bucket side from the rocket used in this video is different from the one we did earlier. This is just an FYI. Hello wherever you want. It can be vertical or diagonal. Make sure that it does not close to the side scene and it just below the bottom of the waste ban. Let's mark the waist band so we will know where the position on the watch. We have our site and the waste that already. I'm using a one compensating presser foot. This lesson of the second row from the first girls will depend on what you like or your clients. Got a long thread. We will use that to thread the needle and draw the needle through the Garmin. Let's tie it. We'll use a needle to transfer the extra thread to the other side of the bucket bag. The front looks clean now because the extra thread is on the other side. We will tie it and then cut the thread and we're done. You can do the same thing to the other bucket. Bucket. But of course you may add a watch bucket if you like. 92. Sewing Pants (Segment) v16: Here are the front pants and here is how we will position the bucket bag. And the right side of the bucket bag will be placed on top of the right side of the front pan. Just match the puppet opening of the pocket bag to the pocket opening of the front panel. There is four eighths of an inch seam allowance. So we will so the seam allowance to attach the bucket back to the front pan. Once it is sewn together, we will flip the pocket bag to the wrong side of the pan. Then we will fold the bucket bag. That's how it would look. The seam allowance will disappear because it will be hidden between the bucket bag and the front panel. So the white pocket bag is hidden. The bucket side, front pocket makes sure that the bucket bug is level with the waste, then we will do the same thing to the left side. It looks good. 93. Sewing Pants (Segment) v16: The Bucket clips on it four inch from the edge of the bucket opening. That is your seam allowance. Mark seam allowance. As you turn. We're done with the first step. 94. Sewing Pants (Segment) v16: The bucket and the trimming In the curve, Bart. So it would be easy to flip later on. Flip the bucket to the other side, push out the insight and folded firmly. Let's skip it. Don't maintain its position. After putting clips on it. 95. Sewing Pants (Segment) v16: One inch from the edge. I'm using one compensating presser, foot, rough edges. Now. We need to hide it with a second stitch. Stitch is four or five eighths of an inch from the edge. We have completed the bucket by opening. 96. Sewing Pants (Segment) v16: Now we are going to the bottom of the bucket. Insight out holding the bottom of the bucket. The bucket. So the bottom part, the corner. Make sure it is aligned. The bucket. We're going to the bottom of the bucket again to hide the first stitch and rough edges. Push before, so the extra threads before cutting it. And we're done doing the French to the bottom of the bucket. 97. Sewing Pants (Segment) v16: We're now going to secure the top of the bucket bug to the front. So straight up to the waist band. Or you can just sold the corners of the bucket opening. I will do the latter. Your goal is just to secure the buck to the front. 1 fourth of an inch seam allowance because of the waste. Anywhere within the seam allowance because it will be later on. The threads. And you have completed the bucket to the front. 98. Sewing Pants (Segment) v17 sewing back yoke: Right sides together. So at least from the edge, I see our first stitch just to attach the pieces together. Since the back yoke is curved, adjust your edges are aligned. Because of the curve in the back heel of that part of the back bands will add here. So the contour of your buttocks. Going to add the bias after the second stitch. It will be on the wrong side of the hill. I will be using a magnetic guide. This is one of the tools like compensating presser foot that will help you with the distance from the edge. This is optional. Is for age of an inch from the edge. Or the guide your sewing in those small spaces. Where we will add the bias and align it to the edge, the other side. So we can do the other side. Is folded. Use your presser foot as a guide. In your view. On the right side, we are going to do double roles. A compensating presser foot will be very close to the edge. Your presser foot as a guide. The distance from the first step, then be at least two. If you look at the back yoke part, you see that it doesn't fall flat on the table. That is because of the curve of the back yoke. So it will adhere to the contour of your buttocks. Of course, the bigger the bottom, the bigger the curve that you need to make on your back EEOC. The EEOC has its function. It's not there for style purposes only. 99. Sewing Pants (Segment) v18: We are now going to prep. The pocket, could be sewn to the back of the pants. The process is split the similar as sewing the watch pocket that we did earlier. Only that the locket this bigger. This is not a regular style bop, bop it. So you can see the top seeing is bigger and the corners are showing in the front when sound to the back of the pants. 100. Sewing Pants (Segment) v18: We are going to position now back to the back of the plants. We are going to find the center of the market. And not from the stitch. We are going to measure 14 eighths of an inch down market. The center of the top part of the market. The center mark the corners and that is it. 101. Sewing Pants (Segment) v18: To be accurate, we will do a Taylor start to mark the position of the Bob to the other pan. Wrong sides together. Make sure it this clips for these kinds of things. We will use a thread and a needle for the stack. Taylor's stack is threading the garment up and down. When you separate the garment to the other corner. Again, it's just down and then up. Remaining corners. Slightly. Cut the thread in between the two paths. And you have the mark on the other pan for the bucket. 102. Sewing Pants (Segment) v18: Using the Taylor's stock as a guide, Bob. Bob get to the plant has the same process, sewing the watch pocket. So the second row from the first stitch will depend on your style. For your clients. Remove the stack and then transferred the extra thread to the wrong side of the pan using a needle. 103. Sewing Pants (Segment) v18: The black crutch or put the correct sides together. Make sure it is aligned on top of each other. Clip it together. On the wrong side of the pan. Attach to it will be folded over to the other side. 104. Sewing Pants (Segment) v18: Yes. The other side. So close to the edge, the edge. On the other side. We are on to the next step. 105. Sewing Pants (Segment) v18: We're going to stitch the body or the black rice. We will do the right to hide the rough edges. I will use compensating presser foot for the top stitch. I suggest you start from the Wasteland going down. The QME also start from the bottom. A leveler to get overdose. You may also use a button or even a step further. You just place it below the presser foot. Spread the garment with your hands for space. Between the lines. We are back. 106. Sewing Pants (Segment) v19: Now we are putting a, so we're going to measure how long is that. We will know how long our bias will be. Make sure your bias is longer than your least. Six inches longer. We will put the correct sides together and a line. The bottom of the front and back plans. 107. Sewing Pants (Segment) v19: We will clip the front. There are no spaces in that. 108. Sewing Pants (Segment) v19: You can use the wheel. So you will have better control over the center with your fingers, making sure that there are no spaces. Extension is slightly diagonal, so do not forget that. First step is complete. 109. Sewing Pants (Segment) v19: The bias on top of the wrong side. Same thing with the bias in the UK. And we will align it to the edge. How it will be position. 110. Sewing Pants (Segment) v19: Let's do that. This is the extension is slightly diagonal. Don't forget that. That's it. 111. Sewing Pants (Segment) v19: Extra garment. Be careful not to cut. Looks good. 112. Sewing Pants (Segment) v19: We're going to fold the biased towards the wrong side of the front. This time. Again, this time securely. And should look similar. 114. Sewing Pants (Segment) v19: To the right. Compensating presser foot. Take your time. The wrinkles are flat on the table. Let's proceed to the next. 115. Sewing Pants (Segment) v19: Rough edges, looks clean. For spacing. That's it. 116. Sewing Pants (Segment) v19: This is how the ensuing looks like. We are using nothing but a single stitch sewing machine. No surgery or overlap machine, and definitely no double needle sewing machine for this. Just track the scene and others seems to see if everything is intact. 117. Sewing Pants (Segment) v20: It's time for the correct sides are facing each other to bring forward or lifted to bring it closer to the front. Should be no spaces or wrinkles. It should be flat as possible on the table. Adjust the clips if need be. First. Make sure it's flat on the table as much as possible. Hello. 118. Sewing Pants (Segment) v20: This is a presser foot with a left and right guide flat bottom. You will use this for bigger scenes. You're compensating presser foot cannot reach. This is also better than the magnetic seam guide, since it can be placed on top of the garment while you are sewing. 119. Sewing Pants (Segment) v20: I'm using presser foot with the right guide flat bottom. This is just for you to see. I don't normally use this word that we will start from the bottom, going up. We will start from the Wasteland. The reason why is because the bigger space of the label is on your left side. Right now we are solving the right side of the plants is also on the left. Off to the next step. 120. Sewing Pants (Segment) v20: It's time to add the scene here by six inches longer than the length of the scene to the wrong side of the pan. Then fold the scene towards the other. 121. Sewing Pants (Segment) v20: This 122. Sewing Pants (Segment) v20: Rough edges twice. First delete the folder. Will be on the edge of the pan. Again, place the other side as well. Mm-hm. 125. Sewing Pants (Segment) v21: We're now going to prepare the extension. We will fold it twice. Hi. So it will stay in place. Hi. 126. Sewing Pants (Segment) v21: This one. Start on the spot. For the other. 127. Sewing Pants (Segment) v22: We're almost done. We're just left with pieces. Like the wasteland extension is longer than the bands. Let's check. Now for the plants. Since the government is already solved two inches, so the pattern is already in front. That's bigger. Matches. Let's now prepare the bulk. 128. Sewing Pants (Segment) v22: Now for the blue, 14 divided 23 sides and then fold the right and left sides. The edge of the garment being on top because it will not it will be folded like so. 130. Sewing Pants (Segment) v22: Loops on the plants. On the edge of the pocket opening. This is also where it is, and this will secure the pocket opening even more. What we need now is to measure the length from the center to the edge of the pocket opening. When you get the measure, men, get the center of it. We will put the belt loop in that center. Marks on it. Belt loops, loops on the edges of the opening in the center. And belt loops in the center. The center from the center back. 131. Sewing Pants (Segment) v22: We'll now the belt loops go down until you reach the bottom of the vacuole and then fold it up. We have one my loved ones on top, which is for your wasteland. We will start, our belt loop is one. I will use that as a reference for the position of the blue. Since we have an extra one inch, one inch space in the Wasteland, we will fold the extra inch and stitch it together with the waste then wasteland after the first stitch. And you will see that the loop is now in between the waistline and the pants. Let's start. 132. Sewing Pants (Segment) v23: In this scene is close to the edge. We will transfer the extra thread to the wrong side of the pants using a needle and then cut. This is the same as we did earlier with the extra threads. The bias is now secured in place. Do the same thing to the other side. 133. Sewing Pants (Segment) v23: It's time to start from the left. And three inches out of your wasteland. You have one on four eighths of an inch seam allowance where it a wasteland. Just follow the crease for your first stitch. Did not start in a stitch from the edge of your fly. Give it at least four eighths of an inch of space from the edge of your fly before starting this ditch. As you can see, all the way up space. We're at the center in a different way. 134. Sewing Pants (Segment) v23: The Wasteland will just close it. Let's see. We still have one inch seam allowance on the other side of the wasteland. For aids. Let's fold again. Like a triangle. The triangle, the triangle thick ones. The next type of seam allowance, only a triangle. The entire extra waste. The third is we will start by folding out the wasteland in half. We will stitch the edge of the fly, or in this case the guard. This pitch folded outside. And that's it. Before folding it outside and make sure to only have four eighths of an inch extra edge. That's folded already. It looks okay because the extra edge is very long enzyme. So that's why we need at least four eighths of an inch for the edge. Let's do the third fold in the sewing machine next. 135. Sewing Pants (Segment) v23: In the previous video. So close to the edge of the fly. Extra edge. Outside. You can use the push the corner folded. 136. Sewing Pants (Segment) v23: What we will do now is to base the wasteland in place so it will not move during sewing. The goal of the base thing is to make sure that the other side of the waist band is on the same level as the one in front. We will clip it first, then we'll do the base thing. It's time for the base thing. Away from the belt loop. Pull the thread later on other hand, are attached. The base secures the position of the waste. Left off? Mm-hm. Yes. Mm-hm. Away from the waist. Pull out later. We are done for this part. 137. Sewing Pants (Segment) v23: The Wasteland, the bottom of the waste compensating presser foot for this one would be easier for you. You're sewing by pulling the garment from behind. We'll continue up the top part. So we can get continue until you reach the end. 138. Sewing Pants (Segment) v23: We're going to the bottom of the belt loops in front or move it to the other side with a needle and then loops until you're done. 140. Sewing Pants (Segment) v24: Please note that I already Martin deposition earlier, bunch of small hole to punch a hole in the overlapping wasteland button set. And then gently this next one, fixing. And that's it. 141. Sewing Pants (Segment) v24: We're going to be opening for the button. Just a pair of scissors. Or just follow the line that we draw on the garment. Let's now check if the button, but it fits right in. 142. Sewing Pants (Segment) v24: We will have stitch the button hole because we will not be seeing a button hole sewing machine. This is a very basic hand stitch technique. So you can easily do this. We will use for the buttonhole, so it will match with the other threads in this pair of bands. Start from the right side of an inch away from the hole as a guide for us. Until you reach the other side. I'm pulling. This will be strong. Turning towards the center. To the other side. There's going to be the same process over and over. We can continue from there. Let's continue the same process with our first step. 143. Sewing Pants (Segment) v25 reinforcing the belt loops: Now is that the belt loops have been secured. We now have the reinforce them easily. The reinforce and just so a horizontal stitch, both at the bottom and at the top of the belt. I am using a different colored thread. So you will see the different threads in this video. This to all belt loops until you are done.