Transcripts
1. Welcome: Hi. My name is Marina, and I'm a Brazilian
fashion designer. In this course, I'm going to be teaching you how to produce your own underwear,
starting from Banes. This will be our project
for this course, and we'll be producing in two different back
views, this one, which is the medium back view, and also this one, which is the full back view
or full back coverage. But you're going to see
that in your pattern, you also have the possibility to produce the small
back coverage, which is Brazilian dong. Let's say you have
a small brand. Um, for example, or even if you want to produce
just for yourself, you can have several
different panties using just these three
different patterns. I will show you also how to apply to different
types of elastic, but you can also
get creative and produce something really
nice and different. I'm really excited and looking forward to
start this class.
2. Printing the Pattern: If you go to the
resources section right below the videos, you're going to find
two different files. One will be the pattern file, and the other one will be
the instructions file. In the instructions file, you can find the different views that you can produce
with this pattern. You can also a guide to printing, cutting,
and assembling. And you can also find a square test of three
per 3 centimeters. This will help you a lot if you have to test the
pattern before printing. Here you can also find the
measurements of all of our sizes and the
adequate instruments and materials that
you're going to need to produce your pair of panties along with a
drawing instructions of how to produce it. But I will be showing you
how to do it by video. If by any chance in the future, you need you can also use this instruction panel
to guide you through it. At first, I'd like you to
print this square page in your printer to
check if you have the correct measurements that we're going to need to
produce our pattern. So I'm just going
to change here a little bit to show
you the difference. You have to live always
at 100% or actual size. You're actually the same one. Because if you live scaled as
like fit to printable area, et cetera, your printer might change a little bit the
pattern dimensions. Then when you print it, you won't have the
correct measure that you need for those
tree centimeters, and then in the future, when you print the pattern, you won't have either the
correct measurements that you need to have the
pattern produced. You print first this page at 100% or the actual correct size. Then you print
this one after you already measured in your
square has 3 centimeters. This will be the pattern. It has to be printed in
all of its ten pages. Then after you have it printed, I will show you how
to cut, assemble, copy your pattern to the fabric, and then start producing RPs. So about the colors. If you want to print in color, you can use this guide here to know which one will be
your correct side according, of course, to the measures
here in this size chart. But if for example, you want to save ink and
print it in black and white, you can also use this guide
to choose the correct side. Because it has
different dotted lines, which means you can check, even if it's black and white, you'll be able to see which one is the correct
size intended for you.
3. Cutting and Assembling the Pattern: So after we have our
pattern printed, we have to cut and assemble. To be able to assemble, we have to cut the
sides as I did in this first printed
page so that we can attach them and
assemble like that. Then we will form
the bigger pattern. The correct order
of those numbers is the first number is the line and the second
number is the column. This one is first
line, first column, whilst this one is second line, first column, which means
in the first column, they will be
positioned like that. First line, second line, and the go first column
of the pattern like that. This one I already cut,
I'm going to show you, I usually cut the one down and the one in the right
side of the dotted line. With that. This is the best way we
can assemble them later. But of course, you have to cut two lines after the dotto line. So you choose if you want the
top one are the bottom one and the left side
or the right side. You have to cut two
connecting sides. Now that we have
all of our patterns cut into touching sides. We're going to start assembling. I take this. I like to do all the columns, and then I touch
them side by side. I'm going to be using
some duct tape. Real first Touch sides to the attention if they
don't move a little bit. I like to attach
the sides first. And then attach every part of the pattern that
I have to cut. Just to be clear here,
this is a part of the pattern that we
have to cut so I like to leave all
edges attached. This is the first column. We're going to go to
the second first line, second con, second line, second column, is how we're
going to assemble them. So touching sides. Again, First line, third column, second line, third column. T out Better to have a look. When there is no
piece of in the sit, you can just tie piece of. Touched it. Then I
cover the edges. F line, second line, f column. So it's simple as that. Can you always use some weights to prevent
your pattern from moving. If you have pattern weights
or scissor, just it there. In the last one. First line, fifth column, second
line, fifth column. Let's see. Smarter
put the ci on top. Covering all the edges. So now we have to start
attaching our columns. So this is the fifth. We're going to take
again to fourth. Then for the column, the first point that
I'd like to secure is this between four edges. Then the other edges. We have the most secured and you can cover
the other edges. You can see the better
begins to get some shape. We're almost there. So now we have rot with pattern. It's all assembled
and you can see the front versions and
the back versions. They're going to be
named by typology. So you just have to
choose which one you want before prior to
cutting in the fabric. This one, for example, is the medium back view. This is the full back coverage, and this is the
small back coverage. You have both fronts
or different types of elastic because the front is always the same for
different back views. But Since we're doing two different
applications of elastic. You have two different
phones right here. One. You're going to realize it's a little bit larger
because we're going to have to fold inside
with the elastic, and the other one is small, just because you
have to place the folded elastic in the edges. This is the result
of our pattern. In the next lesson, we can to cut our pattern into the fabric.
4. Cutting the Fabric: For this project,
we're going to be using elastic, soft tool. It has to be elastic
in both senses. I'm going to explain
a little bit how we're going to
cut our fabric. If you pay attention, all of the patterns have
an arrow pointing, the correct position that you
have to place them to cut. Which means this one, this arrow right here, has to be parallel to the
side of the fabric like that. This, for example, would
be the correct position. This one is in the
correct position. In this one, I could
put like this, for example, because it's
in parallel to the site. But since I really
like saving fabric, because I think every project
every new project sometimes can need just a tiny piece of fabric and when I
save here or there, I'm allowed to use
or the projects. It just has to be parallel if I put like this or like this, no difference at all. The only problem
is if you're using a fabric which has already
a drawing pattern, then you're going
to need to see if the pattern goes
well for both sides. In that case, just a simple
page tool, no problem. I'm going to put my
pattern lights right here. Then I usually like to put one pin in the middle and then
some other pins to cover. This one since I already have
the pattern, the pattern. I'm just going to use some
pins. I just right here. Okay, so I have all my pieces already positioned right
here. Now, I get it cut. For example here, I
already have my front. Let's cut everything we have. Then after the tool, we're going to the
lining fabric. Right here in the middle
of the back part, I have a t ma. You just have to cut that really just to mark the
middle of the back part. Later on, when we're suing, I'm going to explain
you why we do this. Of course, if it's not something that's within your
brand reasons. The motive is to put a
size label right here. But if it's not something
you want to do, if you want to produce just for yourself or your own usage, no need to do this cut. I really just so we can know where is the
middle of the back part. Okay. Justice. If you check the
instructions of the pattern, it's going to be
pointing which thing you have to cut in which fabric. This one, if you can
see, it's one time in the elastic tool
that we're going to use for the bent and the other one more time
in the lining fabric. So For the lining fabric, I use always for
underwear, 100% cotton. The most simple you can find. You can literally find
in any fabric shop. It's the most
adequate for panties. Now, Again, this is the side of the
fabric, position it badly. This is the side of the fabric. You can see this
one, for example, has a little bit of glue to
mark the side of the fabric, and then we just have to
put it parallel like that. Arrow parallel to the
side of the fabric. What I like to do instead is to use the pattern
that I already cut. I my opinion, it's easier
to cut them with the paper. But of course, it's completely up to you
in your preferences. Some people don't
even like the pins. They like to cut just
with the fabric weights. Some people like to use crayons. I usually use crayons when
I'm using a sicker fabric. For example, I put the pattern, and I draw with the
crayon in the edges, and then I take out the pattern and cut with the drawing
that I already made. But it's like personal choice. Okay. Now we have two bottom parts, one front, and one back. What we're going to do? We're
going to position them, getting them ready to go
to the sewing machine. For that, what we're going to do is we're going
to put a back part. In this case for the tool, for example, it's
equal in both sides. So you don't have to
worry about that. If you have instead a
tool with a pattern that you have to
then you have to take care if it's in
the correct side. So that you have it was in the in the correct
position here. What we're going to do,
sorry, I started badly. You're going to
put lining fabric. I'm starting with the back part, but you can also start with the front part lining
fabric back part. This snails, and to. I'm going to pin right here so that I have
everything secured. Like that. Now I'm
going to turn my piece, open it, and I'm going to roll just a
little bit this one. On the other part, I'm
going to put my front. I can roll it also
a little bit so don't disturb me. Position. This is what we're going to use to go to the sewing machine. Right here, we have all over
pieces pinned together. This is the wrong
part of the lining. This will be the
left part of the. Now we're going to go to the sewing machine with
the next lesson and you can see that start
to get a shape. Thank you see you
in the next lesson.
5. Let's Start Sewing: To produce piece in
the sewing machine, you can either use the ix Ag stitch or a regular
straight stitch. The thing is, we needed to be elastic because we're dealing
with elastic fabrics. So in this case, I'm going to use a small stitch. I'm going to be
using black thread. It won't be that beautiful
for our underwear piece, but I think it's the
best option so that you can be able to see what
we're doing in here. I always like to live a
little bit of thread behind. Then we can start. I always like to go back and forth so that I have
everything secured. I'm going to put my needle down and start taking the paint out. I always like to go back
and forth in beginning and ends so that I
have my piece secured. So now we going to trim
the excess thread. This is what we're
going to have. If you can see it's elastic
just as we needed to be. I'm going to do
the same for this s. I always like to have
this excess thread behind. For you. Just like that. This is what we're
going to have. Before turning my
piece inside out, I'm going to trim a little bit right here,
the elastic parts. Like that. It looks a bit
better than this one which is too thick. Like that. And I can turn inside out. Now I'm going to do
a straight stitch. It can be even a large one. We're just going to do
this straight stitch, so we have both of
our fabric together. Just to was rolling there. Just like that. Just want
our fabrics to be together so that it makes it easier for us to go
to the next process. I always like to
have the thread. Like that. It's going to
look a bit weird because I'm doing black thread in the page of white tool just so it can be easier
for you all to see. Like that. Now, this is what we currently
have from our bent. It's already beginning to
get a little bit of shape. Now in the next lesson, we're going to apply elastics. See you in the next lesson.
6. Sewing First Model with Folding Elastics: This is the elastic. I don't know if it's
possible to see, but it has a mark where you
can fold it just like that. In another lesson,
we're going to be applying a decorative
fold over elastic. For this one, I used the A view, which is the medium coverage and prepared for the
folding elastic. In the other video, we're going
to be using another view. What I like to do, I put at first and kind of
medium six zag stitch. Then I place my elastic a
little bit behind there so that I have some thing
to push and then we start. Once I have a little
bit of elastic soon, I put my needle
down. Lift my foot. Then this is the right
side of the bendy. I'm going to be placing it
with the right side facing up, and I'm going to
start from this edge. I'm starting here from the back, but of course, it's equal. You can also start from
the front. Just like that. We're going to be applying our toll inside of
the folded elastic. I think it's possible
to see here, just like that, right
in the middle there. When I finish, each step,
always needle down. So if I move my pieces, I'm not going to take the
needle out of the position. So I like to give just a
little bit of attention. Not much like that. Just a tiny bit. So it's just not
completely lose. Again, needle down. Realistic just came out. Keel down. Now, for professionals,
if you want to produce this in larger scale, like for example, all the sizes in your
particular fabrics. You can also do them right
away like one after the other. You just have to have
them all prepared. Then you can put another
pair of penses here. Then when you finish
all of the sides, you cut them and you
start the other side. But since I'm going to be
producing just one piece, I'm going to cut right there, leaving just a tiny
bit of elastic there so that I can push when
I'm doing the next part. This is how it's going to look. It's really nice outcome. Inside. Now, we're going to have to start from the
front in the other side. Again, we place our tool
inside of the folding elastic. A little bit of tension. If you think this is
possibly moving too fast, some people prefer
to do like that. They fool the elastic and then they put pins
on it like that. You have some parts of
the elastic, like that. Like that. I particularly
prefer to do it right away, but if you think this
way it's easier, you can feel free to produce it in the way that
suits you better. Okay. Again, I like to s a little bit more, and then I can cut it out. So far, this is how our
pines are looking like. They are starting
to get even more in shape and look beautiful.
In my opinion. Again, this is the
medium back coverage. We're going to have the
possibility to produce medium, s, and coverage. This is, let's say a super
basic model that you can use in all of the elastic
fabrics that you have that can be used to
produce on the ware. That now, we have to
trim all the exces. These parts that
are left like that, I usually don't
like to trash them. Because sometimes let's say
you're producing a bra, it can be useful because
you can put a ring on it. And use to apply something
like a strap on a bra. It's really useful
these tiny pieces, so I never test them. Again, we have to
trim in the angle. Make that of the pattern. I think it's possible to see. Because right here, we're
going to have to pass another elastic why we're
trimming it. Okay. I'm going to take my piece out
of here just for a second. Now I'm going to show you why we use this tiny cut right
here in the back part. I've told you that when we
were cutting that later on, I would explain you why we
left this one right here. We have to have our piece in the lining side and what we can do to make it a
little bit more professional. I let's say you're producing
for your small brand, you're going to produce
all the sizes and different colors
to sell to people. Then you can do something that leaves you with your
brand face, let's say. For that, you can
use a size label. This, for example, is
my brands size label. I'm just going to apply
here in this mark that I let to point that this is
the middle of my back part, and then I can place it
right here so that I can have a more professional
look in my piece. I'm using a straight stitch. I'm just going to
go back and forth. Then just twice is
already enough. We just needed to
be safely applied there before we apply
our elastic on it. So back to the sat stitch. Now we have to turn it
again to the outside part. We place our elastic back
in the machine right there. A little bit of sag stitches. And then we can go back
to sewing our pit. A little bit, just a tiny bit of stretch here. Almost ready. Now, a professional trick to save you a
little bit of time. We're going to cut later
on here because we have to place our rings and
sliders for the side. Then I can place my back
right here so that I do just one stitch. That. I have it all placed
correctly, I can cut So far, so far so good. So far, this is what we have. We have a super professional
look with our label, and our elastics are also
looking really good. System back mare.
7. Sewing Second Model with Decorative Elastics: In this video, we're
going to be applying the decorative elastic,
just this one. It's the most common elastic
for underwear producing. Right here, I have a piece that I cut
using the B one view. For this kind of elastic, it always has to
be the one view, A one, C one, or B one, because it's larger as measure, because we have to
place this elastic right here and then
fold it inside. That's why it's a bit
than the regular view. For that, we have to put our piece with the
right side up. Here the lining
part is down there. Six x stitch, can be
small to medium one. Then the soft part up, and we're going to start sewing. I always like to sew a
little bit of elastic first because then I
have something to push. I'm going to do a small zig zag that goes until the middle
of my foot right here. Needle down, and as before, we would like to put a
little bit of pressure. Not much, just a tiny bit. I always like to do
the things free handy, but if you prefer,
you can always, as I showed before,
use pins so that you stretch a little bit the elastic and
apply another pin. It's completely up to you. I usually prefer this handed. This is how it's going
to look and behind, it's going to look a bit uglier. But then we have to fold
our elastic like that. That's why we put the decorative part inside
because then when we fold it, it's going to show just
the decorative part. Here, I can cut. This is the full coverage. Then I can start
in the other side. That so now we have both sides, and we have to trim a little bit this axis
that we left here. Paying attention to
not cut the stitch. Okay. So now we have to fold it. It's like that. You
have to fold it inside. P it again in the
sewing machine. That Here technique, if you want everything
to be always aligned. In that case, we can make it closer to a magnet,
just like this one. If you have any other
magnet at home, I will put it right beside
my foot so that the elastic is always touching the magnet and it
doesn't go out of place. Okay. We can start. So we have to fold it and
push it just a little bit, so it doesn't leave
excess down there. Look. How beautiful
it's gonna look. So fold, push. So when it's finished, this is the outcome we're
gonna have on both sides. So again, fold a little bit, so it doesn't have any excess. Make it closer to the magnet. And So far, this is the outcome.
Really nice. Now for that case, we still don't cut
this axis right here. We're now going to
apply the elastic. We have a few options. For example, we could
trim it and apply the folding elastic up here as we did with the other
pair of panties. We would have two different
kinds of decoration, this one on the side,
and this one on top. Or let's say you have an
elastic lace like this one, which is also really adorable. You can apply it right
here using Ax stitch. It will also give it a
really nice outcome. But today, I decided I just go everything equal for
this pair of bents, so we're going to continue applying this
elastic right here. I still won't put the
label that we had to place in discovery here because
for this kind of elastic, you actually have to apply
the first part of the elastic and then put the label and only
then you can finish. R face up. Again, the decorative
part goes inside. Small exact stitch number two going from the
middle to the inside. That. Again, as on the other model, we can just take the
back and keep sing. I don't need to cut it yet. And we can cut. Now we can also cut right
here, separating both legs. And now we trim the axis. I ended up cutting
the mark that I left. So what I can do, I
can just fold it. So I can find the middle
of the back part. I put a pin, then again, I take my size label. I need it to be like that, but then I have to
fold my elastic, which may sound a
little bit confusing. What I have to do
is I have to apply it inversed like that. Open. I put it there on my pin. I'm going to do a
fast straight stitch. Just to put it in place. Then I will cut all
the thread. Xis. So it has to be applied like that because then
when I fold it, it's going to be in
the perfect place. Now we go back. So the six X stitch. We can use again our magnet. And we can start again
with the sewing process. Can fold push the ***. This is how it's going to look. So now to finish our paints, we just have to do back. So again, this is
the inside part. We're going to fold it. And go to the sewing machine. So this is our final piece with the decorative Elastic and cage. Looks really nice.
8. Applying Side Straps: That. We're going to be using underwear elastic. This one. If you possibly don't have
this one but have the folding elastic that we just used
to produce our panty. You can just do your side
straps with the folded elastic. You just have to keep on sewing it even when you don't have
the piece inside of it. Then you can use this one. Since I have the underwear elastic right here, I'm
going to be using it. For this view, the A view, we're going to be
using 20 steps. So I cut right here, and I'm going to
need two of them. So I just cut twice. No, we're going to apply
sliders and rings. This lesson is important if you watch it once
and you try some times. You can use it for pretty much every on the word
that you produce later because it's going to be basically the same process. What we do, here we have our
strap in the right face up. We're going to pass it inside
of our slide like that. Here. Then if it's within
your preferences, you can use a pin to leave it in the correct
position like that. I usually don't like pins, so I'm going to do hand free. Now I have right
here my order strip, again, right face up. Usually the face that looks softer is the one you
have to put up like that. Inside of the slider like that. Then this is for another time. What we're going
to do now is we're going to put the straight
stitch, small one, round two, and we're going to go back and forth
to our strips. Hold the threadle down. Again, back and
forth, three times. It's going to be really secured. So now you can do the other one, just like you did this
one called the thread. Needle t. Trim the excess of fred. So what we're going to do now? Cars Now, this is the left
face, the wrong face. The right face is right here. You're going to see
because you have the excess of
elastic right here, so you're going to
take it open as it is. Pass your ring throw
it on the floor. Pass your ring on it like that. Now, turning like that, right face up,
you're going to pass it again inside of your slider. You have your strap. You can use when you do brass, you can use when you
do other panties, shirts that have
this kind of strap. Pretty much everything dresses. Everything that has a strap on it can be done
using this method. Okay.
9. Final Adjustments: In this lesson,
we're going to take our two parapherns and
apply the side straps. So I'm going to start with
the folding elastic one. I already have the side
straps that I prepared. I prepared total four units because then I can
apply both tes. Now what I'm going to
do, I'm going to take my pent like that
from the outside, open it in the inside. Then I'm going to put it here
side strap looking behind. Because then put a pin here, you can see in the outside, it's going to look like that. You can see ops. Here, you can adjust your bends and it's going
to be soon just like that. Now for the other side, I'm going to do the same
thing like that with a pin. This is how the inside part
is going to look and in the outside two
adjustable straps. Now I'm going to put
a straight stitch, small one, round two. As we did to prepare the straps, we're going to go back
and forth at three types. Then you can trim the
excess of thread, and also the excess of elastic. Like that. We'll do the
same with the other side. Again, trim the excess. Take out the pin. There's
some excess red right here. I'm going to cut also
the as of elastic. Remembering, I always like to save these tiny
pieces of elastic. Okay. This is how
it's going to look. Now for the back, you have two different options. Usually, most people place the side strap here in the back, so with a straight stitch
and then you fold it inside having it
closed just like that. But for this one, I think
it looks much better. I instead in the
end of my strap, I put another ring and it. I'm going to show you how this other different view is going to look so needle down. Again, back and forth, at least three times. Cut the excess, be it
of thread or elastic. Then I apply it to the back. I'm just going to put
a pin here so that you can see before we do it
in the sewing machine. I think it looks more beautiful
like that with two rings. A So again, I will position my elastic
here, needle down. Then I can close my panties, like that. Put a pin. And after we sue it, we're going to have
our first panties. They look just
beautiful, professional. Look. Now I'm going
to sue both of these. I pins. I like to hold the thread. Got the axis of Elastic. And again, in the other side, we're going to do the same. Look how beautiful
and professional. I'm going to be passing
a bit faster the video, but I'm going to do the same with our other pair of panties. Okay, so this is
our coverage, P. Looking really professional,
just as the other one. Okay? Now, this knowledge
and the pattern. Of course, you can use to produce a lot of different kinds of pintes using your
creativity. Like this one. For example, as I said before, you can apply some
different laces, like that. Look hope beautiful and it's
already a new kind of paint. I hope you all enjoyed, and I hope you'll have a
lot of fun in the process of producing your own
underwear. Thank you so much. Thank you
Marina Bornelli, Fashion Designer
