Transcripts
1. Introduction: Hi, welcome to a
new sewing class and my sewing room
in Lima, Peru. I am so happy you're here. If this is your first time. Sewing with me. Let me introduce myself. My name is Isabel. While there, I am from Ecuador and right now I'm
living in Lima, Peru. But my home is in
the United States. My family and I travel around
the world every few years. And this time we're in Peru, where we will be moving back to the United States to our
home in West Virginia. My sewing room also
travels with me. I have lived in
the United States, in Vietnam, in Ukraine, right now in Peru. And I have lived in
Argentina to Ecuador. Of course, I have a
degree in fashion design. So I know how to sew
a lot of things, especially chlorine, but I
really love to sell anything. And I also love to
teach people how to sell and show them how
wonderful so n can be. In this class, I have
prepared for you a project about making
flowers at a fabric. While I was living in Ukraine, I loved seeing all the tulips
blooming in the spring. So I was inspired to bring
them inside my home, but I want them to last forever. So I decided to make
them out of fabric. In this class, I will love
to teach you how you. I make also a bouquet of tulips. You can make one or two. And I know you love
seeing them in your home, decorating a room, or
give them to somebody. I know you will get a smile
every time you see one here. Let me show you in the next lesson all
about this project. And all you need to have to create your own
bouquet of tulips.
2. Your Project: Hello. The project for this
class is to make a beautiful bouquet of
two lips like this. I'm inviting you to come
and sell them with me. I'm very happy that you're here. And you would like
to learn how is that these two lips are made my first few lips
were made in 2019. And I remember that he
was a really fun project. I see these like a fun project, unique project that is very nice to work through all
this steps of the sea, these two lips coming to life. And it's really
nice to see them in your home, decorating your room. And also, I've used this. She lives as gifts for friends. My hope in this class is that people can make
and so I to live. Even if you don't have
a sewing machine. In one of my lessons, I will be teaching
you how you can stop this tulip all by
hand. Let's see here. My mother was visiting
us here in Peru, and she's so many
of them by hand. I really hope this class will
give people the excitement and joy to grab their sewing
supplies and get two. So in that way, they can feel happy, they can feel inspired, and they can be happy to create something with
their own hands. As a project you can
make 13 are many tools. This class is good for
anyone that likes to, so that we like to. So something nice, fun, and pretty for an
experienced person, for someone that is
just beginning to sell. I will teach you different
steps through the process. So even if you don't
have much experience, so when you will learn
a lot of new things. And for an experienced person, I think this project
will be fine too much. In this class, I will teach you how to draft the patterns. How to prefer, prepare the
fabrics with interfacing, how to cut all of your pieces. You will get to practice
always straight stitches. How to turn a corner there, how to sew around curved lines, how to turn your pieces
and staff them and have all the pieces ready to
start assembling the tulips. And as a bonus, I'm gonna be teaching you
how to make two kinds of flowers with fabrics
at DC and arrows. At the end, we will create a beautiful bouquet of toilets when you
make your project, this class gives
you the option to download your project
with a picture. So I can see it in a lot
of people can see it. You just have to go
to the Project and Resources tab and then
hit where it says Create. And remember that
there is going to be a downloadable PDF with the pattern and a
few other resources. Remember that you can make
as a project for this class. You can make one of these, or you can make a whole bouquet. I would love to see what
you create. Are you ready? Let's go and get started. So in this village.
3. Materials: In this lesson, we're
going to find out about the materials you need to
make a to live like this one. And I'm also gonna give you a little tour of
some of my fabrics. Hello, This lesson is
all about material. So I thought I would
show you my drawers, at least a couple of them. I have this one that
has a lot of prints. And this one has some solace. I like to divide them by like polka dots solids though this one should not be
here and getting hams. So for the two lips, you can like to do my stems
and leaves in green color. But you can use whatever fabrics you have
or the scraps if you have, I like to do green and I
like to pick solid for this themes in something with a little bit of
a print for the leaf. And you can do also like more pastel color like
this combination. So these could be your fabrics. Some things similar to
this for stem leaf, stem leaves arrived
for the buds. I went to play a little bit
with gang hands for the buds. I have made my two
leaps out of silk. And I'm gonna be
doing some sales, but I am also want to make
some with gain hands. So I'm going to pick, you can do everything one color, or I like to do it
in different colors. So here I have this. Then I'm going to
flip right here. So these are some
options in cotton, and these are some
options in silks. For this class, you're
going to need to have. This is a suggestion, I suggest green colors for
your stems and leaves. I like to use a solid
cotton for the stem and something with a powder
or a print for the leaves. You can do bright colors
or pastel colors. For the buds. You can use different
colors if you would like, just play with different
kinds of colors and patterns and prints. You can also use do
silks and for the buds, these could be scraps of
fabrics or quarter yards. These ones can be fat quarters
for the stems or leaves. This is definitely a
fat quarter projects. Then we need the thrust
to match your fabrics, pins and needles, scissors
for fabrics for paper. You can use a rotary
cutter and a ruler. If you would like to
cut over a cutting mat, then you need to
have your patterns. And of course you need to have an iron and you're interfacing. Let's talk about the
feel or the stuffing. This is something you're
going to need for this project to make the tulips. And you're going to
need this one is called fiber feel, super
soft polyester. And this one looks like this. You can, can crumble it like make a little ball
with it in your hands. And this one is
for the buds only. Then for the stem, I have this one that
is called poly feel. Low loft is quilt batting. And the difference is that
this one you cannot like can repeats and it comes
like in long strips. So that's the one we're
going to need for. The stems is easier to
use this one to feel it, then to fill it with this one. At least I have
found that this is another material we
are going to need is some sort of staffing. Polyester feel equally
also be cutting. Anything that can work like to fill the shape of the
bath or the stem.
4. Size of Tulips and Pattern Drafting: So we're ready in
this lesson to see the size of the queue lips
and go through every piece. So these tulips
have three pieces, the stem of the
leaf and the bad. So let me show you how
to draft those pieces. In this lesson, I'm going
to teach you how you can draft your own patterns
for these tulips. It is not difficult, but if you prefer
to print the PDF, that is also good. So what you need
to do these is to have some kind of
pencils or pens. You are going to need a
ruler or a measuring tape. Also, scissors to
cut the pattern. And I like to use some tape to halt the coordinates of the papers at the
bottom and on the top. And just to I work on
a grief that Matt. But if you don't have a
great math, It's okay. Alright, so let's
start with this. We're gonna do first the
bug and then next the leaf. So this shape start
with rectangles. And for both of these, so you have to make
a rectangle that is 2 " two through 8 " or
6 cm by 3 ", or 7.6 cm. Okay, so now I'm going to
show you what to do next. If you want, you
can go ahead and do a rectangle, four-year leave. Okay, next is to find, we're going to find the half, the middle of these rectangles. Then you are going to
place a line right there. I have my marks here. And I'm gonna go ahead
and place a line. It can be as solid
line or a dotted line. All right, Next, we're
going to measure from here to the widest
point of the bad. Okay, so now we measure
from this point, we are going to put one
and three-quarters, and I get that measurement
out of my pattern at the widest point of this. But one and three-quarter
inches or 4.5 cm. And you can mark
that on both sides. And then at the bottom, you can then go in a
quarter of an inch, which is 6 mm. Next is about drawing. So don't be afraid
you're going to join this middle point. You're going to join into
this here and then two here. So we want a little bit
of a curve right here. And you're going to get to here. And I do that with
a pencil in case. I'm not happy with the current. Here is more like
a straight line. So here it is. You can round it
how you want it. So then you go over that in
I started tracing it. In. This one is pretty
much a straight line. So there it is. So here you have half of
your butt already done. And you can repeat on
this side by hand. But what I like to do at this
point is a cat, my square, my rectangle, folded in half and then cut one side and trace
it to the other side. I'll show you that. Next. You can do in different ways. You can go ahead right
now and fold this in half in this the dotted line. And you can go there and cat directly both sides
of the paper. Another way to do it
is tracing one size. So we cut here first all around and then
trace it to this size. So let's try that one. So that way you just work
cutting one piece of paper. And we're going to now trace
these to the other side. Using as template this
part that we cut. So now we have this and we can, and in the other side, we can write here and the line. Here it is. And of course
this is a guidance. If you feel like you want
to make them bigger, you can, you can make
the rectangles bigger. Or if you want to add more in the binder, make them longer. This is just the guide I
give you how to trace this. Very important here, I like to write information
for the future. You're bad the direction
and how to guide it. Because when you find this pattern later
on in the future, then all these preferences
are very good. You can even writing the bag, what kind of fabrics you used
in all of that, alright, for the leaf, we also have
started with a rectangle. We find the middle of this, the middle line of
this rectangle. We're going to
again measure from here down to the widest
part of the leaf. And I know that because I have made this one so I can
have this as a reference. But if you don't know, then you can, that's
when you use draw. Any start thinking, Oh, I like it like this. And just go with your pencil, sketch a little bit. So that will give you a
reference of what to follow. But to follow mine, I'll give you my measurement. Okay. I have mark for this coordinate down to
three and a quarter, or inches, or 8.3 cm. From this corner in is a
half an inch or 11 mm. So now we have all these points. We have this mirror point, this side point, and
the bottom point. In from here again, we can start drawing
the shape of the leaf. And you go here and
from this point, you start going
towards this one. If you feel like when I
use a ruler in this bar, you can do that. That's good. Here, this, we're going to do this same. You can leave it like that, or you can go with
a mark here and trace the lines so you
can see them better. And the same length we
did before weekend, got a rounded rectangle. We're going to fall
in the middle. And then we're going to cut
and trace to the other side. Let's do that. So I did a
little time-lapse there, and I have kept my
leaf over here. I have traces, so I
have this new line. And then I am going
to cut right here. So I can have the other
side of the leaf. Here we are. So now we have the leaf
and we have the bud. Remember to write in your pattern the
name of the pattern, the direction in what? You have to cut the pieces. Let's jump into
making that stem. The stem is the
easiest one to make. The pattern for the
stem is very easy, is just a rectangle. None of these pieces
have seam allowance. So you're going to have to
include seam allowance. I like to secure
the page with tape on the size or corners. Now, we're going to draw a rectangle using
these measurements, 1.75 " or 4.5 cm
by 11 ", or 28 cm. And here's your rectangle. This is all it is for. The stem is a simple rectangle. Again, put the name and I did not add seam allowances
to the patterns and that is optional if you
will like to add seam allowance so you don't mark it on the fabric is fine. A quarter inch should be enough. For seam allowance. I will mark the seam
allowances on my fabric. So there are different ways
when to create patterns in similar ways excluded or you add the similar
ones on the fabric. The rectangle with a rotary
cutter and ruler or scissors. Here the patterns that we
made and now they're ready. I left the seam allowance
added to the stems. And here they all
ones that I have. I hope this is helpful
and it gets you into the desire to draft your
own patterns array. Now that we have drafted
our paper patterns, or maybe you printed
the patterns, we're ready to jump into
the next lesson where I will be teaching
you how to prepare the fabrics to cap them. And then we'll continue. I will see you there.
5. Preparing the Fabrics : Hello, ready to start
preparing your fabrics? For this lesson, you will
need to have your materials, your fabrics for your buds, and the codons for your leaves, and the interfacing
for the leaves. I hope you have gathered all of your materials and let's
see what it's all about. A quick talk about
interfacing, facing. It's good to put
it off on fabrics. So it gives the fabric a
little bit more stability. Interfaces that
are really good to help a fabric to have more body. And for a project like this is going to help for
the leaf of the bud of the tulip to have more body and instability
is not gonna be flimsy. So that's what interfacing,
there's two fabrics. It will prevent from a fabric or a project to look
flimsy is very good to put on bags and also
in colors for shirts. But here's one, and
this one is very light. I will add the
name in the video. And interfacing
has a side that is smooth and psi that is rough. This is for interfaces
that are feasible. This is this side. The rough side is the side
that you're going to put against the fabric
on the wrong end, on the wrong side of
a fabric like this. And that's where you're
going to Ireland top. The heat of the iron
will melt the glue that is in the back and
will fuse it to the fabric. This is one guy here is a different interfacing and
that's a little bit thicker. There is also
interfacing for knits. And this one is stretches, so it's good for
needs and fabrics. They have a stretch. And there is this other
kind of interfacing that is more like a woven fabric. And also it comes with
glue in the back. So here it is. Just a quick talk
about interface since they are a wonderful
material for sewing. Here. Yeah, I'm with a square of the fabric that I'm
going to use for the buds. And this one is
around 7.5 by 7.5. On the wrong side of the fabric, I'm going to put
my piece facing. Still, moves a lot. So as long as you have a
good space there cover, you're good to go and
start pressing all over. Okay, so once you
have your interfacing completely fused to the
back of the fabric, I like to also go on their rice F fabric and go
over is completely interface and ready for the buds to be trace here in the back
and start cutting them. Here I have a piece
for the leaves, and this is around
15.5 by 15.5 square. And then the same thing. I'm adding here two
pieces of interfacing because I'm running
low on interfacing. So that is okay to do
in a project like this. Then it's the same thing, the wrong side of the
interface that has the little the glue and rough
psi is going to be glued to the wrong
side of the fabric. So you place it on top
and then you apply heat. I personally use this theme
when I interface my fabrics. But some interfacing
say no to use theme. I will say do a little
sample on a piece of fabric or rice. So now that your pieces
are all interfaced, we have the fabric interface for the leaves and
the one for the buds. I do not interface the
one for the stems. And that is okay. Unless you want to,
you can do that. But I just do this
for these two pieces. So for the next steps, we're gonna need
any fabric marker. I like to use a pencil. If you don't feel
comfortable with a pencil or if you're working with white fabric and you're afraid that it might
show the line. Then use a fabric marker in
any color that you can see. And also we will need scissors. You can use a rotary
cutter if you prefer. And if you do that, you will need a cutting mat. And of course you will
leave your patterns. So let's see the next steps.
6. Cutting Part 1. The Buds: We're now ready to cut the
three pieces of the tulip. I have divided this
lesson in three parts. We're going to start
cutting the bud, then the leaf, and
then the step. Let's go and start
cutting the bugs. Now we're going to cut the path. Let's do a little recap. We have a piece of fabric
that we interfaced. Make sure you check
the direction of the print on your fabric. And then we're going
to place the pattern on the back side over
the interfacing. We can use weights, fabric weights to
hold the pattern. If your weights are kind of big, you can move them up
and down as you need while you trace around
the paper pattern. Or you can also use pins to secure your pattern
while you trace around. So when you're ready, then just start tracing
all around your pattern. I just use a pen or a
pencil is good too. Now, it's time to add
the same allowances. And a quarter of an inch
is good around this, but on the sides. And then the bottom, we'll
add a little bit more. Remember when you
place your pattern on the fabric to think that you need to add seam allowance
so you don't put it too close to the corners
of the fabric. Just remember to keep
that in consideration that you need to add
seam allowances around. Let's add now the
seam allowances. And I like to use
this little ruler is called as seen, God's ruler. And it's pretty handy. You can adjust the literal level there and add all around
your seam allowance. I'm doing a quarter of an
inch and at the bottom, I'm adjusting it
to half an inch. So I'm there it is. All your seam
allowances are added. And now it's time
to cut the bug. I use a scissors for this part. Just that kind on the line. And just go all around
your, um, your butt. So here it is. Your bud. First body's ready. You need to cut two
pieces for each bud. This is one way of cutting
where you cut one by one, but I'll show you
a different way, okay, for this one, I'm going to fall
my fabric and I have already trace
my pattern here. You can put a little pin also. And instead of adding
seam allowances around, I am going to cut a
little rectangle around. In this case, I don't
even need to cut it on top or the bottom. I just need to put
lines on the sides. You can use your scissors
to cut these right here. Or you can use your rotary
cutter if you prefer. So in that way, this one already
has the other side here and already has
the lines marked. So all you have to do is go in a stitch from here to here. The bottom is always
going to be open. And then after that
we're going to trim the excess fabric. So this is another
way to get the buds. Anytime you're
marking your fabrics, remember to keep in mind the
direction of your fabric. This one does not have it. These little fan
looking flowers are pointing up or
pointing down as well. So and because this is just a bud and we're now
working with garments, It's okay In what
direction it will go. You can cut it across the
grain or along the grain. And if a fabric has a direction, it will be something like this. Where these flowers are up is the flower
down is the stem. If you will, cut your little
bud in the wrong direction, Let's say you put your pattern like this
or your fabric is like this and you don't
notice when it's open. And you, because you always
work in the back side, though, you can see
the print here. And if your fabric is going
in the wrong direction, flowers are pointing down and you put your
pattern like this, then all of your flowers are
going to be upside down. So just keeping in mind the direction of a fabric is very important when you're
going to cut something. Here, I'm showing quickly how
I can add the bugs a lot. At the same time. I make sure that I
can cut my pieces, put in my pieces up, going up or going down
the pattern pieces. And then I just place them side-by-side and then
fold the fabric. And then I pin the two layers to keep and
keep them secure while I cut, Then I just use
my rotary cutter. I don't add seam allowance and because I'm so close
to going together, I don't do like a
real rectangle. I just cut around it. And then I just stream
the x's fabrics and the coordinates just to
keep it ready for sewing. So here they are. Many of these buds cuts at once.
7. Cutting Part 2. The Leaves: I have here I squared R
15 by 15 " is interfaced. Make sure you check the
direction of the print and always mark on the
wrong side of the fabric. A better way to cut and
save on fabric is to nest your pieces as
best as you can. I'm going to also all the fabric and start placing
my pattern on top. I'm going to just mark once for each set of leaves
and make sure you can look at the bag to make
sure you have enough fabric underneath to add
seam allowances. Then place your pattern. I'm using fabric weights to hold the paper and just trace all
around with pen or a pencil. After you trace your pattern, make sure you put a pin here
before you cut your leaf. I also just marked my ruler a quarter inch seam
allowance here, and I add another quarter
inch for my next pattern. Just that way you are
sure where you need to place your next pattern and you will have seam
allowance to go around. And I didn't write
here because this is the widest part of your pattern. Here's a fast video of me
marking all of the beliefs. This is kind of like production style to cut
a lot of leaves at once. You could even saw right here this piece of fabric
if you want to just start sewing before
cutting and cut after sowing. But I'm just going to
go ahead and cut this. So I'm gonna go in-between here. And then curious one rectangle and I have this side
and the other side. And I'm going, I'm stitching. I'm going to stitching
looking at these marks that I have only on one side and
then just start cutting this. It's like this. So
I find this way faster for me to cut my pieces. I know everybody in the cutting part is the part that is a
little bit tedious. You just use the preparation. So you sometimes you
just want to keep it. Make it as quick, as quick as you can. But always keeping in
mind to do a good job. Carrier pieces cutting fabrics is very important in sewing. So here they are. And then at the bottom here
because they're folder, I can just cut them like this. This one. It doesn't matter, it's going to get cut
when we click the point. And then here.
8. Cutting Part 3. The Stems: Now cut-scene this stems, I have here a piece of
fabric is a fat quarter. And I wanted to print it
on the pieces of the stem, pattern pieces, trace it on a quarter to know how many can you get out
of a fat quarter. So out of a fat quarter
you can get nine stems, but you still have leftover
here, but I cannot, it's not enough to put, again my pattern completely going running with the
salvage of the fabric, but it's okay to put
them across ladies, following the width
of the fabric. See your arrow, and
that will be fine. So from the Fat
Quarter easily you can get around 11 stems. Nine will be cut on the
grain of the fabric, and two will be cut across
the grain of fabric. But since it's okay, no, there is no reason why
you cannot do that. So marking this is pretty easy. You place your pattern on
the fabric and then you go around with your pen tracing and then you add
seam allowances. I'm going to already
marked this one says so I just need to as seam
allowances at the bottom. And I'm going to show you how to market on this part here. Let's do it like
that better so you can see everything better. So I just mark the coordinates, did like a little L
marking the corners. And I'm going to bring my ruler and join these coordinates. Okay, So let's join
these points here. After these, we have to add seam allowances
around with a ruler. Or with these. You can do that too. So after you have traced this and mark with pen or pencil, then since this is a
straight line, you can, could cut this with a ruler
and your rotary cutter, but if you don't have one
then just on the line. And I do not interface my stems, the fabrics for the stem. I just leave it like this. Here I have all my
stems almost get out. I just need to add the seam allowances and
the top and bottom. And I do that all at once. Then I can add any extra
threads that were not cut with a rotary cutter. Okay. So we have all our pieces. I hope you did too, and I hope it was easy
to follow and help you. I had no problems interfacing your fabrics
and cutting them. Just to recap, I interface
pieces of fabric for the buds, interface for the leaf. I choose not to
interface for the stems. So after interface
in your fabrics, then you will mark
the pattern pieces. With your pattern
pieces you will, you will mark the fabric
using pen or pencil. And I show you a different
ways you can cut it one-by-one or fall in
the fabric to save time. The same with the leaves
and also with the stems. I will show you a little
way to mark all of them and cut them all at once. So you have many cutout. So next, we're ready to jump
into each of these pieces. Alright, so our pieces
are all cutout. Now, let's keep going.
9. Quick Talk About Bias Cut: I would like to do a quick
explanation about bias. Bias is very
important in sewing. And he has different results. I mean, it has
different advantages. But in this project, what I want is for my buds, I was thinking to
cut them a bath and a leaf in bias
using the ham. So in this case
where if I cut that, is that instead of having
this pattern of the king, I'm going vertical
and horizontally, is going to give us the
look of going diagonal, which is really pretty to play with Gillingham
fabric to do that. Some fabrics that are
readily printer like that, like this one, I have this little piece of
fabric is a five quarter. If we study this little
piece of fabric, is already having this
diagonal pattern. But in reality, this
is not cut on bias, is just that it was
printed in that way. So let me explain you
with this game here. So this is the salvage
of the fabric. And this is the grain of line, and this is across
the grain of line. And if we want to cut
something on bias, we will have to
place the pattern diagonally going on the fabric. So you've seen as example, this line here on the green. Then I will place my this, but this is why your patterns
have these arrows here. Because the arrow is
opposed to follow the salvage of the
fabric in this way. But since I want to give
a movement to my leaf, I place these lie on the pattern in a diagonal
way over my fabric. See is like it's following
this diagonal line. This is good. And there are some good things because then it
uses more fabric. That is not the good
thing about bias. Iv use it, it will
use more fabric. The previous thing about
biases that you have this nice diagonal
pattern going on here, which this is what I
wanted to achieve. Another thing in bias is that when you cut
something bias, it is going to give you
more stretch if you cut in the right direction
following the salvage. And that is something else
that applies for making garments buyers will give
you other advantages. Besides the way
our pattern looks. And all of the
fabrics have bias. Not only Gillingham, every fabric has
bias, this one also. So this is the salvage here. If we cutting diagonal, then you get this effect that
if you're doing a binding, you can apply that
to carry on bias. And he has a little
bit of a stretch. But even a pattern, flower, a fabric
that has flowers, a lover that also has a bias. So bias is a way of cutting
your fabric on diagonal. That's what it is and it gives
you different advantages. One of them in Gillingham
is that your checks and your partner is not going to be straight like this is
gonna be on diagonals. So I thought it
will be cute to cut the bus in bias here and in bias for the leaf and
make a to live out of Gillingham fabrics in having them going with the
pattern diagonal. So I hope this was not too
confusing display about bias. You can play with your
fabrics that way. I really liked to play when
I started cat, cat thinks, not always on the following
the direction of the fabric, but using disadvantage of the bias got to get a different
movement for your fabric. I was really happy the way my Gillingham two lips turn out. Next, let's start sewing.
10. Sewing by Machine: We're at the fun
part of this class, which is so and
we're going to start solving all the pieces
to make this till it. For this lesson, we're
going to need the earth three pieces for tea leaves, the stems, the leaves, the bud and the leaf. In this lesson,
we're going to learn how to show the pieces. And here I have the stem, it open and to sell it, we're going to fold it in half. And I suggest putting a couple
of pins along this piece. We're going to show a
starting from this point, straight line all the
way to the bottom. Do a turn in the coordinate. And so the piece part here. So let's do it on your machine. The machine is throw at it with the color that we
match your fabric. In this case, I have
a green color here. And the setting on
your machine will be with a straight stitch two. So this piece, so let's start and we're gonna go right
here and the point. And we're gonna do a backseat. When you get near the bottom
where there is a coordinate, you're gonna pull your needle down in the coordinate and then move your move your fabric. And keeps going until we finish. And remember to do a
backstage at the end. Now let's draw the
leaf and again, pin in the middle
will be helpful too. So, and we believe we're going to put it
upside down and start sewing right here
at the bottom of the leaf and go to the point. So let's do that. Then. It starts. So when you leave, starting at the bottom, towards the point, always start and end
with a back stitch. When you get to the
coordinator of the leaves, there are two ways to do it. I like to just so
all the way out. Take my leave out completely, and then I go back in. I'm going to start
again with a backstage. It's like you're
crossing the threats, the stitches like
this in that point. And then just keep solving. Remember a backstitch
at the bottom again. And that's all. Okay, we're ready to do. So the bug, so I have
yellow color here. Remember you have two layers
and this is for one byte. So when the buds is just
like we did with the leaf, we're also going to cross
the stitches at the point. And we remember to do a
back stitch when you start sewing IN so around the
bud and at the end, make sure you also do
a backstitch again. Now you're bad, is
completely stitched. Our pieces are so
we have this stem, we have the leaf and
we have the buds. Now. Next is before we
turn the species, we have to check the seam allowances and
just trim them down, especially these two here. For the stem, what I do
is to clip at the bottom, I have put a line
here so you can see. And just do that
cats a little bit, not too close to the stitching line or
it can fray later on. When you cut that. You can also follow me
like this and clip. I'm going to leave the
bottom like it is. And all around is good. Remember you have opening
at the top for the leaf. I go around and I, I do this just by eyeballing
the quarter inch. But if you prefer
to mark a line, that is good too. Then in the point, again, I just clip a little bit
of the excess fabric here. And what this is
going to help us with is when we turn our piece. So in this point that is very, there is no much space, then there will not be so
much bulk of the fabric. So here it is. This is how I leave them. And sometimes you can clip
just a hair in the top two. And also, I like to come
and do little notches. Just in the areas where
there are a curve. The line is curved. Just remember, don't
do the notches so close to your stitching line. So guys for the leaf and
for the bud is the same. I go around and trim
the excess fabric. This point, we have a little bit more room compared to what
the leaf has here. When I talk about Romans, when we turn this piece, then these seam allowances
are gonna be here in psi. So here we have more room for these seam allowances
to leave inside. So I recap. So we have stitch this in. I have backstage right here, but this stage I
continued all the way to the bottom saying here, backstage, right here, and stitch continues
to the bottom. Next, we will work
turning our pieces so we can start stuffing all the pieces
and then assembling, alright, less keeps our ISO in two different
ways to stems and I want to show you so will
you saw that first one where we started at the
coordinate, leave an opening. We went down, turn a
corner and finish here. This one, I left a
hole in the middle. So the top and the bottom of
the stem are both closed. And then I already
clip in the corners. So when we turn we don't
have too much fabric here. The reason why I did this
to leave an opening right here is about staffing
these pieces. So when we're going to get
ready to put the field inside, doing it from the top. Here. It takes a
little bit long, long. And wanted to give
you this option. If you prefer to do that. We will see that later on. I just want you to know
that this is because this is part of the
swallowing process here. Next we're going to go into, I want to teach you how you can saw all of these pieces by hand. So let's see the next lesson.
11. Sewing by Hand: I wanted to have in this class a lesson
where I could teach you, I stitch that you can do by hand in case you don't
have a sewing machine. I really want this class to
be accessible for everybody. Even if you don't have a
sewing machine that you can feel that you can tackle this
project and start sewing. My mom less year I saw her. So in my hand she made a
lot of her tools by him. And I saw how much she enjoyed
that just sitting outside. And then just that is
their hands stitching. Now, it's time to start
sewing the pieces. But this time I'm going to teach you how to do these by hand. So for this you
need your threads. You need needle. I hang needle. So let's go and he
started sewing. Let's start stitching by hand. I have already done a little
bit of a back stitch here. And also in here, I have two ways to do stitches, the backstage and this is
more like a chord stage. I'm not sure if that's the
correct name in English, but we start with a
backstage and I'll show you how it is to start
sewing by hand. I cut a thread that is around 20 " long and I
fall letting have and go through the needle in that way in one of the
corners you have a loop. The other one is the two ends. And I do my knot in the side
that has the little loop. In the way I do my nuts. I twist it around my finger and then just twist the
threats and then pull it. And there you have
your little knots. N can be clicked. And I recommend to use, not to use a piece of
thread is too long. Because the more you
do the hand sewing, then your thread
can start twisting and then getting nods and
you're gonna get frustrated. I'm going to start
teaching you how to do a back stitch in this line. So you put your needle through the bag that has a
naught. You pull it. Then I'm gonna go
like just 5 mm. And then go through the
fabric and pull your needle. Then the next stage is going to be jumping about
the same amount, 5 mm or like a
quarter of an inch. And then you go back to where you had put your stitch before. Do this same jump
space and go back. So it's a motion of going
front and going back. And you skip a space and
go back to where you were in the same space, and go back to where you were. And this is how you create a stitch that is
called backstage. In the back is, has like a little is more
racist than in the front. So this is one stitch that you could use and I'll
show you another one. The other is teacher like to do. Let's start here. And to me this one goes
a little bit faster. So the same, You go like 5 mm millimeters or a
quarter of an inch. But this time you're going
to stab the fabric and you're not going
to pull the needle completely out like
in the other case. You're going to put the
point of the needle in-between and then pull it in, then again, another quarter
of an inch and in-between. And then pull it. This stitch creates a
little bit of Laika cord. Or according to me, it goes way faster
than the backstage. So you stitch and in the middle, pull your thread here. So this is the other
stitch I like to do. And then in the back you
have this tiny stitches. So you can use
either this one or this style to solve
by hand your pieces. Then start sewing by hand on the lines mark on each piece. Take your time and enjoy
a stitching by hand. When you are ready to finish your stitching by hand and
you're ready to backstitch. You can do a couple of
stitches just around like just one or two is enough
and then make your knot, I do a little circle there and pull the thread,
another circle. And just pull the thread. And that should be enough. You can bring the thread
up a little bit here. Just cannot hide in it. And then clip, and it's done k. So these pieces
are some by hand. This is with a backstage and it creates this little like
change the h in the back. This is the other stitch
that I like to use that goes faster for me and it creates
these stitches in the past, so that's it for us. So in by hand, I hope you liked it.
12. Turning the Pieces Inside Out: Let's start turning
these pieces. We go through the bottom and
the clips in the fabric, in the fabric are done
in this seam allowance. And then just start training. To get to point out. You can work it out
with your hands or you can use your
small scissors, but be very careful when you push the
point, not to do it. Two strong, don't
push too strong. Or you can also use a pen
to help the point come out. So this one is done now. Now we're going to grow. We believe when you get to the point where
it's a little bit harder. So I'm using this again
and just push very gentle. And just bring the point to where you can see
it in from here, you can get something that is thicker type of pin or a needle. And just try to
bring your point as much as you can out without
damaging the fabric. Once you iron into desk going to flatten this little bulk
of fabric right there. So your leaf is turned to. Here we go. Now we're
going to turn the stems. I saw the stamps in
two different ways. I left one stem with an
opening on the side. Just like to use the back of a pencil eraser
and just push it. In that way. You get it out. The same fear. Just use a pin to
bring your corners. Now, this one, this one
is sown all the way. We only have an
opening at the top. In the same I'm going
to go in the bottom. Kinda grab it from
the sides like these. Like if you're
pushing the scene. Now I put my eraser side of the pencil and you just work
the fabric to go through. I like to iron. This piece is very well. Before putting the stuffing. In this lesson, I want to
talk about the leaves in the different ways
you can finish them if you would like to try. Here is the leaf, how it looks after
we son the space. And then to completely
finish these, to be ready to put on the spam, what we need to do next is
fault in at the bottom. You're going to bring
the bottom part in. Your interfacing could have fused to each other
when you iron it, because it's very
important to iron this piece after it
has been a stage. So you're going to bring the
bottom seems inside using your fingers just go in-between the two fabrics
here and folding. Once you have folded in, all you have to do next
is to give it a grid. Iron iron and ironing
with the steam is better. That's all I usually
do for my leaves and then it will be ready
to put it on the two. Another way to finish the leaves are you can add top
stitch all around. But remember that to
do this three ways, the bottom part here
should be finished first. That means you got folded irons, so have it like this ready. Then you can top
stitch like this. Or you can do some
lines in the middle. You could even quilter if we feel like that's
something you would like. Also another way is sewing a channel and then
feeding through here a pipe cleaner
or channel sticks. And you go through here with the Chinese stem
going through this channel. And what it gives you is
the opportunity to fall, to bend your leaf, which this one, you will
not get to do that. So that's something
to think about. If you would like to give a different effect
to your leaves, you can definitely use Chineasy
stems to go through here. And once you feed it in, I will cut in just a
little bit shorter. So the point is not
right here. They are. These other ways
to do your leaves. I'm going to still stay
with the simple one. And by you are free to
choose any of these. And I'm sure you can also put your own ideas and try them
out if you would like.
13. Stuffing the Pieces: Our pieces are
turned inside out. And in this lesson, we are going to learn how
to use these poly fill. This poly fill for the stem, and this fiber pill
to do the buds. So let's jump into the next lesson and learn
all about these steps. The leaves don't
need any stuffing. We're going to move
them to the side and we're going to
start with the stem, so I'm sorry, with the bud. So I have iron these
to be nice and crisp. And now I'm going
to use these fiber feel and start stuffing it in. It's just a matter to going in here and start stuffing the bug. And you can put as
much as you want. I like the buds to
be pretty tight. So I put a lot of
stuffing inside. That's probably enough. Clip the rest of the fill. And there it is.
So then you have your little mark that
that's going to come handy. Next one we're going to
start assembling the, but basically, this is how
it's going to be for the buck. For this stem is the other field that
is the quilt batting. That you can rip
it and it comes in long you can get a
long strip like this. So this is the fun
part, actually. Well, this is
actually a little bit of the difficult part in this. The making of these two lips. It is not difficult. It just takes a
little bit of time. So you start to feed
it through this hole. And because your fingers
can go all the way in, this is when I use
a pen, pencil. And this time I use the
side with the point. In what I do is
that I'm going to push these field induced
fit it in there. And you move your fabric
and push your pencil. The pencil is bringing
in all of the field. And then I take
the pencil out and then do this, pull the fabric. But this is too flimsy, so you cannot have
your stem like that. So I go back with a
pencil and again, I'm going to push it. So it started pushing your
Quit button all the way in. So it's very tight
and compressed here. That's how your stem
is not going to bend. Right now. It feels good. I feel like here it could have gotten a little bit more stuff in. But once you start filling in, you can now go back to feel more here because we
have all of these. So when you work
your stuff in in, make sure you keep
pushing it down, making sure it goes all the
way to the bottom and then keep adding light
right now I'm to here and now I have to add more. I have a little bit
more along strip again. And I kinda do a little
point here to the body. And again, I feed it
through a little bit. I use the pencil again. And just the pencil is going
to help me to push it in. And keep feeding in the stuffing in different
sections at a time. And just keep repeating until
the stem is fully staffed. This dam is all filled in. And now this part here at
the top, I'll explain later. How is that we have to finish? For now this is ready and
I'm going to show you how to feel this one that I left an opening on this side and the top and
the bottom are closed. When you iron this piece also, it's helpful because
then you're similar. Quizzes are folding. That that's gonna help
when you have to close. Okay, let's start filling
this the same with the strip of the quilting
body, the quilt batting. And we go through here, push it. Started stuffing the stem
just like we did before. The difference is that it's
going to go faster this way. Okay. I'm gonna go
from the other to the other side. Same thing. Keep stuffing the other side until we reach the middle part. Okay, let's see if we can
put all of these in here. At this point. We need to staff as much as
we can in the middle part. So it's equally tight as
the rest of the stem. And this becomes a
little bit tricky. But if it is possible, okay, I think we're good. Now. We have to keep these with
pins for later on too. So these by hand, this way of filling
the stems for the opening in the
middle goes faster, but we have to so
the opening by hand. So here they are, both. We have in this lesson, we'll learn how to staffing inside the buds and staffing
inside of the stem. Next lesson will be about assembling the
pieces to create utility. To finish your two. I'll see you in the next lesson.
14. Assembling the Tulips. Part 1: In this lesson,
we're going to start assembling all of the pieces. This is my favorite part
because here is when I can see the two
lips come into life. First thing is to run a
live stage here by hand. And this is gonna be done in the line where the seam
allowance line was. So using the same thread
matching that matches the bud, you're gonna go all around in. Once you have it in, you're going to pull
in the seam allowance, push in the seam allowance
towards the inside. And it using this stage
that you just did, you're going to pull it
like you're gathering in this way is going to
keeping the same in, in, at this point. You can close
completely your butt. Sewing by hand several
times at the bottom. Like this. If some
seams when I poke out, you just push it
in and send there some few stitches to
help it stay in place. And then just keep
doing this until, but is completely done close
and just pull the thread. Don't be afraid to pull it. Grabbed different sections. In political. And he's ready to clip
the threat there. Here is your bud. At the top of the stem. We also run a stage and the
stitches are not too sure, but not too big either. Just go all around. And we're gonna do
basically the same. We're going to
pulling these same. And then you pull your
stitching to gather it. In close. The talk here it is, the top of the stem is closed. You bottom is close from
before, and here it is. So now we have to join
these two pieces. Let's see how we can do this. Okay, so we have these two pieces that
have to join together. Just grabbed the two
pieces and kind of push in this but towards the stem with one hand and then
with the other one, place the pin and just stab. And then there it is. Now I go back to the
other side and I do basically the same. And just going
through the ledgers and grabbing
everything in place. There it is. So now all
I have to do is to do a blind or invisible stitching
all the way at the bottom, I'll show you a rise. So here we are with
the bad and the stem. Almost together. We are holding it
with pins. Pins. So for this part, my needle and thread is ready. By this time I want
to make a naught. I will keep this loop at
the bottom like this. So you saw how I do it. I cut a piece of thread, folded thread, the needle. And then that way you have
one side with this loop. This loop is going
to come handy now. And the reason why I
didn't put a naught is because I want as invisible these stitches
to be as possible. So let's do it. So I'm gonna go here and
I'm going to grab the pink. And the first thing I'm gonna
do is to secure this stage. So using this loop, I'm gonna go with
a needle through the loop and then pull it. And in that way, you're, now you have a nut right there
and you can start sewing. So let's do this
invisible stitches. To do an invisible stitch
you go and you pick a little bit of one side and a little bit
of the other side. And then you have
to pull in a lot. And then you try to do it
right there at the very, very bottom and grab both
the green and the pink, and then just pull it. And in that way, you started. Now you can release your pin and just holding everything
with your left hand. And then keep grabbing
like that and then going all around. And the more you pull here, the more your stitch
is going to be very close to the fabric so
nobody's going to see it. So I'm gonna go a
little bit faster. Let's do one more. So you can see, sometimes
you can grab three, like I have pink, green and pink and pool. And then the stitches
completely disappear. So that's how you
work all around. Okay. I have gotten
to the other side. I have gone all around in now. I want to show you how to do the last stage and do the nut. So just grab one more time, a little bit of both. And then the same, you're going to use this loop
here to create your nut. And there is one
naught that is there. I always go just one
more time just in case. And do my next. Not try to do it as close
as you can to the fabric. Holding it with the fingers
and then pull your thread. And then what I'm
gonna do is just like brain the thread somewhere. Here. You pull and just cannot
go around your to lift your butt and then
just bring it like that somewhere in the bud. And then just pull
your thread a little bit and cut it
flush with fabric. And that way your
thread is going to go in and nobody's going to see anything and your butt
is attached to the stem. Quickly. I want to show you another way that I have sown these two lips. So after you go around the
bottom of the butt with a long stitch and you
bring in your seam inside. You gather it a little bit. This time. I'm not going to close the bottom off
the bat completely. Instead, I'm going to put in, I'm not going to finish
the stem at all. Instead, I'm going to
place it right there. So it's like the bud
is eating the stem. Once you have it in there, then you're gonna
pull your butt. Really pull the thread
of your body very tight. And as I remember, I forgot to say this, but you can line up the seams of the bud
with the seams of the stem, in this case, is
a little bit off, so I just have to move it
a little bit like that. Now they're aligning. And then pull your thread. And then holding the thread with your finger,
don't let it go. Then I'm gonna go
with the needle. And I'm going to do a
stitch somewhere in here so I can keep it in place to make sure you go a
little bit back and forward. So when you went to do
is just get the needle. So it will not, the thread will be holding both pieces together
and you're gathering is all there holding your
but at this point, you can you need to go and stitch the same like we
did before. All around. If you see certain spaces where it didn't
go completely in, you can push it in. So this is another way and the result is
basically the same. I'll show you comparing bottom. Want to show you how
these two compare. These were assembled
in a different way. You saw this one and this one, this one here, both
bud and the stem. We're finished at the top here
and the bar at the bottom. In this case, I didn't do
anything to the step stem at the top and the bot was
not close completely. And we put the bugs
the way that this term was cannot like eating the bud, was eating the stem. So both look about the
same in both needs to have hidden stitches or invisible stages to
join them together. The difference the way that you join them before you
start stitching. So I wanted to show you this. So you can choose the best way, the easiest way for you
to assemble these tulips. I wanted to share with
you my first two. And what I wanted to tell
you is that if you cannot attach your bud to the stem the first time
you find the heart, do not, do not feel discouraged. This is my first one. And this is another
one where I even went around with a
threat like that. One sees in the vase
and nobody sees that. And the same here,
the stitches are. You can see them a little bit and just give it a
try and with time, you will find the best
way you can do it. And look at my first one
compared to this one, I will say it's
testing the pattern and this one is skinnier. And the leaf, I've, I didn't put interfacing
in both sides, so it's a little bit flimsy. But in sewing is a process. You just have to enjoy
the little steps in it. The more you do some sewing, the more you learn. And then you're
finding your own way, how you like to work and
how you like to do things. So next is going to be
stitching the leaf. I promised this is easy.
15. Assembling the Tulips. Part 2: Alright, we're almost done. And this is exciting. If you got it all the
way down to here. I want to thank you. And I hope you can make at least one to live or even
better make several tulips. So the leaf, I promise it's very easy and it is so aim here. If you have made some
stitches in the leaf, you just need to pick right and wrong
side depending on where your stitches
look the prettiest. Let's check this one. So let's say you're
using this one here and you might have these bags teaching here that
doesn't look very pretty. So that will be your
Ron psi and you will want to put this
against the stem. So it's gonna be hidden in if somebody checks your two
Lipton is all nice, neat. I'm gonna be using
this one here. So what you do, this is up to you and how you think the leaf of a tulip
goes in real nature. So I put her around thinking a little
bit higher than the tulip. I think that's what
I've done in the past, but that is optional. You can also put it lower if you feel like that's how
you like it better. What I do, I tried
to put the middle of leaf align with the same. So here is the same. I'm going to place
it right here. And then Kandahar, the
leaf hogs the stem. Once you have that, then you're ready to go. Okay, so let's sell
this with a needle. What I do, I go in-between in I I did not stitch
the leaf by itself. I is just folded. But if you feel like we want
to put a top stitch here, you can do so. Alright, so since I
don't have a stitch, I'm going to go through
here because what I wanna do is to hide my knot. So nobody sees the nut
and you can push it in. And then, so right now, all I have to do is to
do a few stitches here. And these stitches, I
don't do them invisible. I it's okay if people
see if you see it. But if you feel like you
don't like to see the stitch, then you can do an
invisible stage. I just go like
that, do a couple. And then I'm gonna staff
stab through the stem and bring it to the other side
and pull it and do the same. Just grab both. And just wrap, wrap around the right here in the coordinate a
couple three times. At this point, I just am done. I think that's enough. Here it is. These two stitches. And then it's just a
matter of doing a nut. And again, I do like a
double knot two times, very close to the fabric. Pull it in, then I'm going
to hide this, like this. Just pulling your
thread a little. So it goes back
and then clip it. And there it is,
there is your Chile. And now use how
to do a few more. And so here is, where is the end of
the stitching part? I hope, I hope you have liked this class and I hope you
can make a few tea leaves. These are great gifts. I'm going to show you
in the next lesson how to, to create advocates. In the next lesson, I will be teaching you and
showing you how you can arrange these beautiful tulips in tissue paper
and create a bot. So it's ready to give as a gift.
16. Creating a Bouquet: Great work, everyone. By now, I hope you have
at least once you lift made and that you have enjoyed all the steps to
get to this point. And the more you
make Destiel lips, the easier it will become, especially when it comes
to add but to the stem. And then next with
all the tea leaves, then you're going
to start gathering. Then you're gonna
be ready to create beautiful bouquet of flowers that you can put in your home. Or you can arrange them
to give us a correct. In this lesson, we
are going to learn how to create a bouquet
of flowers, of tulips. How to use tissue
paper and make a bowl. And you can make a bouquet
with a lot of tulips. Or also you can use a gift
to somebody once you live. Or you can also use fabric to wrap your two
lips in gray a P, a pretty bouquet with
five or less tulips. So let's see all you need to have a how to create a
bouquet like this ones. In this lesson,
you're going to need different kinds
of tissue papers, whatever design you like, we like printed or just a solid color, ribbons, different sizes. And a Caesar. If you're putting together
several of your two lips, I like to wrap them
first with a ribbon. Just tried to put
the two lips facing this way so the leaves are in the bag and your buds
towards the front. It's not a rule, but especially
the ones on the front, so they can be seen better. I also can stack them a little bit shorter in
Fromm, little bit bigger. In the back. It's
like I'm kinda like, you know, in like a staircase. Then I have here I
square of tissue paper. So in any size enough, I place them diagonally. And you can leave like around 3 " and the top or a
little bit more. It depends how you like it. And then I bring the bottom up and kind
of falling like this. And then I bring the
sides to the Fromm. You can follow that if you
want a little bit more. And then here too, just kinda leave it
a little bit loose because you're going to
tie these with the ribbon, so it's not super tight around. Your flowers. Next is to put the ribbon around and I cannot hold
everything in place. While I was putting the
ribbon around the paper. Just with your fingers? Whole everything down so he
doesn't move. If you prefer. You could put a
rubber band first. And then I just make a bow
is best to use for a bot, everyone that has this
setting in both sides, so you don't worry, when you make a bow, if one side is, does not have the settings psi. So here, nice little
bow right there. And your bouquet is ready. You can also arrange a smaller bouquet
with a single tulip. I'd add a few pleads
to the tissue paper, so it looks fuller. I have gifted one to live to friends and it is
always a great gift. Now, just add Bot with a pretty ribbon and your
bouquet is ready to be gifted. Another idea is to add a favorite tool kit
for a soloist friend. Another way to arrange a bouquet is using
a piece of fabric. You can tie the two lobes first. Then I fold the fabric, bringing the sides
into make a triangle. I also full the edges at the bottom too high
the raw edges. I placed the tulips
in the middle and wrap them with the fabric. Then I tie the bouquet
with a pretty ribbon. And here they are, these pretty bouquet of tulips. These are really
wonderful gifts. Another idea is to add them, to add fabric basket. How do you make a bow? I make a loop, but one side is going to be longer
than the other one. Then, because this, the longer side has to
wrap around this loop. So then I go around like this. And then I twist this because I'm working with everyone
that is darling, one side, shiny and their other. So I'm going to twist it. So when I bring these
through this loop, I bring the SAT in size. And then I just keep all of my ravens with
a set inside facing. Once I'm happy, then I tie, I pull it, and then
I pull the legs. I have the dollar sign here, so I have twist this. So it will be also
towards the front. That's why I said
it's easier for a bot to have a raven death. Both sides are the setting
with a satin finish. So here it is. I hope I can help you with
learning how to make a bow.
17. Bonus: A Daisy and a Rose: To make this type of flower, you need to have five circles. They can be any size. That's how I made
this little one. Depending on the
size of the circle, is going to determine
the size of your flower. You have it like that, folding half and then fold
it one more time. Once you have that, then you're going to pass a
quick a running stitch here. It doesn't have to be
very small or too big. So once you have that, you pull it in, you're going to continue
doing this for all of your pieces. Okay? Now that you have them all, gather, there are going
to look like this. So I'm going one way, some other, going
some other way. So just bring them all up with the points up
and pull your thread. Now is when you are going
to create a circle, you're going to
rounding them up. And in here, what I like to do is while I'm I have
them all in a line. I secure these gathering stitch by just going
around a few times. Right here in the corner. You can make a knot
if you prefer. I just go around
several times and then that way the
gathering is staying. It's not going to
be moving anymore. Here. You need to join these. You're going to join
these two these. And you just bring your needle to the
other coordinate pair, grab it, go back to
the other coordinator. Grab it right in the
coordinate is best, and then just pull. So I go securing these
from different directions. I just grab a
little coordinator. And this is just
kind of like you're bringing the centers together. The middle of the flower
is more stable form, you're bringing your
panels back in, your flower starts to get shape. Now I repeat the same, but in the back, securing all the stitches
in the middle part. Once you have
established your flour, your flour, your five
petals are done. You have secure the center. Then we need to place a
little circle in the middle. The way I find this is
using a ruler like this and just place it on top
and see which is the size. So we work best. Then trace it on the
material you're going to use and then you're
going to cut it. I'm using leather for my
flower and for the back. I do the same. The back looks not as nice, but it's okay because In
the back we're going to put a piece of felt
to hide all that. So that's how you
will finish that in. To do the center, I just use and very strong glue that
is called E6 thousand, and that will hold it in
place for a long time. So I have glue, my center here, this circle. Now for the bag is
gonna go the felt. I just want to
remind you that if you would like to put these
on a hair elastic like this, my suggestion is that
you put this one here first and you stitch it. And then when the stitch, then you cover these with a little piece of felt
that you can use. Do some several Tompkins around there to keep it in place. That way it will look neat and your little hair clip
we'll be ready to use now to make this
type of flower. And also I have made
a tiny one for ring. For this, you will need to
have strips of bias fabric. What I do, I cut any width. I fold it in half, and I like to iron it so
I get a very crisp edge. This is how you
start having strips of bias folded in half. Now, the next thing
is that you can finish the edge or you
can leave it like this. Here I have put a
finish to the edge with the tiny size is like
doing enroll him almost. But that's not necessary. You can do your
flowers without it. Like I have these tiny
ones that I just, I didn't finish
anything in the edge. On the edge. One more thing to
remember is that we're gonna run a stitch here, but that's also optional. You can do with these flowers, just with the fabric like this. And I'll show you how. Okay, let's recreate
this flower here. I, I have not stated
at the bottom, so I have it like this. Once you have run, I stitch at the bottom
is a gathering stage. So it should be the
length should be between 3.5 to
four, pretty long. So when you pull the
thread is easy to gather. And when I gather, I do not gather it so much that is going
to get very close. In this case. I just
lifted to this point, just gatherings all
along this trip. Then you're going to grab one coordinate and you're gonna go down and create like the
center of the flower. And you can do like tweets
that if you weren't like that. The important thing you need
to remember is that things have to go to the bottom where everything is going to be
and for later to speech. So, and then here
I just go around. You can gather a little bit
more even if you want and just keep holding it in
place, bringing these inside. And it's a matter of working
around with your hands. And once you get to
the last little piece, then you follow these
again like that. You can bring it all
the way like this. And then you have
your little flower or you can bring
it to the inside. You can do a little bit
more of a gathering here and bring this little
coordinator down. So you can work it out
in many different ways. It's just a matter of how
you place the fabric in. When you have like this, then you go on the
bottom and you're going to have to
stitch all by hand. Okay, so once you have a flower created and you're holding
it with your hands list. Let's go ahead and stitch it. Prepare your thread. Double thread with
a nice naught. And then just grab any place at the
bottom of your flower. And just go through
all the layers. And then you can either wrap around just to
hold it in place for a little bit while you
aren't going to keep going back and forth to work
through all the layers, to haul all of these layers
in place, secure them. And then third is your flower
is completely stitch in. At this point. We can clip the
bottom a little bit. I have already cut
a little piece of felt that can go down here. So these felt is going
to cover this stage. I'm just going to
do different things around like I did in this other one that I
put this hair elastic. Like I'm going to use this in Joe's stitch it right there. So I can use it as a clip that you can add
to a garment, to a belt. In my case is going
to go for my dog. Her name is Rosie. So I think these are the
rows will be good for her. In here is rosy with a rose. I'm making now at tiny rows. We, they strip of fabric
that I did not gather. I'm just twisting
around the fabric. Then I attach this tiny bud to a stake and I tie
it with a ribbon. Here there are on all the
flowers I have made with fabric is really fine to
make flowers with fabric, I really wanted to put in
this lambda vase, tiny roses. So I'm going to
put the last one. I just need to cut the steak
and then put it in the face. I feel that vase with dirt. So they just 15 really good
in the size of the flowers. That pain of how long this strip of fabric
you work the wave. Another idea is that you
can place these roses in on a stem like we did for tulips
in a little piece of bias, they can be used to cover all the stitches needed to
attach the rows to the stem. I hope you have found
this bonus helpful and that you would like to make
more flowers with fabrics.
18. Thanks and Final Thoughts: I want to thank you
for joining my class. I hope you have liked all the lessons and the steps
to create your own tulips. I hope you can now make more tulips and more
flowers that you can enjoy. There were many reasons when
for grading this class. I was inspired mainly after seeing my mom less
year here in Peru. When I show her this project, she really get that spark in her eyes than getting ready to. So this is what I want
for people to feel, that joy, new project, that a project that
is pretty different. And then you can
enjoy in your home. It is really incredible
what we can create with our hands and width
sewing if you love to. So I know the feeling
if you're just starting to so I will advise
you just to keep going, try jumping to the
firm projects. Don't be scared. And in so doing, there are a lot of rules. Yes, it's true, but there are also those rules can be broken. And remember also to
put your own style and anything that
you want to add to a project's just do
it and experiment. So it's a lot about
experimenting and having fun. I will be really
happy if I can see one of your two leaves or
flowers that you have made. If you have the time, you can take a picture and you can upload it in the
project gallery. You have to go to the tab
where he says Create. And from there you can follow the steps to put your picture. I will be the first
one to cheer you on. And if you have a
little bit more time, it will be wonderful if you can leave a review for this class. Reviews are very helpful, help fold for a new
teacher like me, and is a big
motivation for me to improve my glasses and also
to create more classes. And if you would
like to know where my next class is
gonna be available, then please follow me
here on Skillshare. You can find my name at
the top of this video. And also, I can be found on
Instagram and Gypsy Taylor. I share a lot there
about my sewing journey, the behind the scenes. And also you'll get to see
me inaction moving overseas. My whole sewing room. And you can also get to
see my new sewing room. Thank you again, and I really hope you had fun in this class. I hope to see you from the
United States next time. Let's keep going.
Isabel Wilder, Designer, Artist, Maker, Etsy seller
