Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets | Joanne Tinley | Skillshare

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Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets

teacher avatar Joanne Tinley, Jewellery Designer, Tutor and Writer

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets


    • 2.

      Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets - materials


    • 3.

      Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets - equipment


    • 4.

      Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets - soldering equipment


    • 5.

      Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets - soldering


    • 6.

      Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets - drilling


    • 7.

      Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets - finishing the rivet


    • 8.

      Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets - making the headpin


    • 9.

      Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets - finishing the pendant


    • 10.

      Riveting Part 4 - final thoughts


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About This Class

Soldering is great fun and opens up a whole new world in jewellery making, but sometimes it's just as great to use materials that don't stand the heat! That's where rivets come in - a cold connection technique that holds layers of a jewellery design together without the need for a blowtorch.

This third class in my series moves on again through the riveting techniques, encouraging you to add more detail to your jewellery designs by using rivets that are more decorative than a simple hammered piece of wire. This time we're going to learn how to make and use decorative rivets. I'm just going to use one rivet in my design, but once you've mastered the technique you can add more than one rivet to your jewellery.

I do recommend that you watch the first two riveting classes in the series as this class builds on the techniques covered there:

Riveting Part 1 - Simple Wire Rivets

Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets

I'm going to make a pendant in the video to show you all the different steps. The top layer on my design is a flower sawn from silver sheet and I'm going to rivet it onto a wooden bead using a rivet with a decorative circle that will form the centre of the flower. However you could usedecorative rivets to layer copper onto brightly coloured acrylic, patterned pieces cut from a recycled biscuit tin or sandwich fabric or leather between layers of metal, as long as the decorative top of the rivet is made from a metal you can solder the rivet wire onto. The only limit is your imagination and riveting is a great way of using upcycled materials!

Other classes in the series will take you through simple wire rivets, how and when to use more than one decorative rivet and also how to make rivets from tube. More videos with extra projects to help you practice your new skills will then follow!

Further classes in the course can be found at:

Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets






Meet Your Teacher

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Joanne Tinley

Jewellery Designer, Tutor and Writer


I have been making jewellery for as long as I can remember, and have been passing these wonderful (and addctive!) skills on through my classes for nearly 20 years. I am self-taught and like many people I started with wire and beads. Learning how to solder, however, opened up a whole new world of jewellery making! There is something so magical about watching solder flow through a seam, joining two pieces of metal together smoothly.

My studio is in Southampton, on the South Coast of the UK. I design and make jewellery for galleries across the UK, teach regular and popular jewellery design workshops, and also offer private tuition. My jewellery design projects have been published in both UK and US magazines and books.

Visit my Etsy shop, Jewellers Bench Shop, for jewellery ma... See full profile

Level: Beginner

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1. Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets: Hello, My name's John Tinley. I'm a jewelry designer and shooter from South Coast UK. Welcome to the third class in my Siris on using rivets in your joy design classes one and to focus on using why rivets toe hold layers off your joy. Design together simple rivets may for why, as the name suggests, with each end, the wire hammered or fred out so that they were too big to fit through a hole being drilled in different layers, holding everything firmly together. But what if you don't want to see the head of the rivet on your work? Well, your option then used to use a decorative rivet to turn the front layer of your design into something a little bit. Francia. Although this still is a cold collection because you are able to use materials that can't withstand the heat, the blowtorch and you are fixing security together by hammering by cold technique, you will actually need to do a little bit soldiery. Compare the front head off the rivet and so that front part of it does need to be made of a metal that had withstand the soldering. So silver, copper or gold. If you wanted to. I'm sticking to the woods and silver thing. For the 1st 4 classes, I'm showing basic techniques in riveting on I'm going to be riveting, a lovely flower on front, off a wooden beat. The flower is going to have a round center. On that center is itself the decorative of it, although I saw on the silver flower out of silver sheet. I'm not going to go through soaring techniques in this class as I want to really focus on the riveting techniques. In this course, However, I will attach template for flower to the class materials and in the class description, I will link to other classes already produced that would take you through lots of hints and tips to really make your sewing efficient and smooth. If you haven't you watched the 1st 2 classes in this Siri's. Then it would be really useful for you to do so as they will help you in this. Clumps of well, future classes in the Siris are going to teach you how to use more than one decorative rivets on your work and also how to use rivets made out or chew would then be going through quite a few different projects that will really help you to perfect your skills. So if you're ready to get started on, learn how to make decorative rivets, let's have a look at the materials on the equipment this I'm going to use and project. 2. Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets - materials: the's of materials that you're going to need to make the project for this riveting class. I got a large, flat, very free form wouldn't beat on. The whole is running down the length of it. The important thing about the be the type chosen. This has got a nice large of flat area that allows me to drill a hole through it without affecting the whole that I'm going to pass the head pin for. I'm going to be adding a silver flower with a silver circle for the center of the flower onto the bead. For this particular project, the top player in the design in this case, the sea small silver disc, doesn't need to be studying silver or perhaps copper. If you prefer to soldier on to the back of that, because what I just said, we are going to be soldering onto the back of that circle onto the back of that top layer. It doesn't matter. Watch materials you use for the rest of project, however, remember that once the soldering is done on the circle, the rest of technique is a cold connection technique. No further solving is going to be needed. We can layer together materials that can't stand the heat. I used a disconcerting cut circle out. I'm not going to covering how to do that in this class on also not going to cover how to cut the flower out of studying silver. She each with a jeweler's saw, because I do have plenty of other classes that cover those techniques, and I will link to those classes in the information for this class so you can find those techniques easily. However, I will add a pdf that gives you hints and tips to improve your sewing technique to this class. The last material that you're going to need is some no 0.8 millimeter why you're not going to need as much as I'm showing here. But I tend to buy quite a bit of it at one time, which is why it's in one big real. We're going to be using that to form both the rivet onto to form of the head pin that's going to go all the way through the beat 3. Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets - equipment: the's the tools that we're going to need to make the project for this decorative rivets class, although the layers that you can rub it together with decorative rivets can be made out of virtually anything you like. Would acrylic sheet bits cut out for beautifully decorative biscuit? 10. The only limit really is your imagination, but the top of the rivet does have to be made out for material that you can solder the rivet Pinder of it itself. On to You can make the top of the rivet out of copper, silver, even gold if you want to, and you can make it out of any shape that you like, after all, is supposed to be decorative. I just chosen to use a simple circles is going to be the middle off a flower, and I cut that out. She's in my discussed er. I hate to cut up with Goldhammer so that that would get damaged by hitting the cutter instead of damaging one of my nice texture hammers. I always support the discounter on a leather cushion where I'm working. I gave the disk a nice a dimpled how much texture with my scoreboard peen hammer on supported silver on the steel bench block with another cushion underneath. Whilst I did that, you could, of course, use a jeweler's saw to cut the silver, which have you're using to make the rivet on support material on the bench Peg as you are working and as you've seen, I'm going to be riveting together a lovely silver flower onto a wooden bead. I use that you will have sort to soar of flour, and I use the very shape needle files that you can see here too neat enough for the ages of the flower. But I'm showing you the tools. Remember, I'm not going to show the techniques of how to cut discs out of silver sheet or use a door jeweler's saw to saw shapes out. But I am going to link in the class information to other classes I've reproduced that go through these techniques because in this class, remember, we really are focusing on that decorative rivet I'm going to use. Why cutters to cut the no 0.8 millimeter. Why, that's going to form a rivet. Andi, I've got a ruler here as well to help me make so so I'm cutting the right length of wire. I'm going to use the bench drill to drill a hole through the silver flower aunt through the wooden beads as I'm going to threat the decorative rivets through. But I'm going to do the whole with a no 0.8 millimeter Drillbit. It's the same diameter as the wire because the wire on the whole really needs to be a tight fit so that the rivet holds everything together securely. If you want a little bit of room than the rivet is going to move about a little bit on, eventually it's going to work its way loose. I'm also going to use the wire cutters and a ruler to help me cut the wire that I'm going to need to make the head pin. That's going to go through the bead to turn the bead into a pendant. Once the hole is drilled on the decorative riveters ready, I'm going to fit everything together on I'm going to use a Sharpie to help me work out how much wire to trim off the back of the rivet. Once I've done that, I'm going to use a small, riveting hammer to finish off the rivet on the back of the pendant. Andi, I'm going to support the work cross. I do that on the hard rubber block that you can see here. The rest of the tools are to help form the rapture loop that's going to be turned at the top of the head pin. What round nose pliers, flat pliers and nine on your pliers to help me to do that as well as the wire cutters again . Andi, I'm probably going to need to use the nylon. Your pliers on the flat applies to help me pull the decorative rivets through the work. I've also got a real of magic Scotch tape and I'm going to be using just a small bit of this big real to hold the flower in place on the wooden bead whilst I'm during that, the whole for the rivets. Although finishing off the river, it is a cold connection technique actually making terrific to start with does use soldering kit. So I'm going to show you what we're going to need to use now. 4. Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets - soldering equipment: I think this is the soldier equipment, as I use for all of my smaller projects, such as earrings and sore pendants, Everything sitting on a couple of slate tiles, a heatproof surface to help protect my desk on my work sits on a couple of soldering bricks , soldering blocks while some heating it up. One of these soldering bricks is made of a softer material than the others. Because it's softer, it's picked up some dips and some cracks in it. It's being used over the years, and these could be very useful for supporting work that isn't completely flat. The charcoal block is there because I melt small piece of scrap on top of that on. Do they form nice of my balls as I am used to decorate my projects when I need to pick up my work or to support it whilst I'm soldering? I used reverse action tweezers that you can see here and have also got a pair on a stand through 1/3 hand, and it's there when I need 12 on extra hands to help me out. The blue handled stick is a soldier pick on and that I used to push soldier, move it about to make sure it it's exactly what I wanted to be. Soldier usually comes in strips or sticks. Andi, I've got three different melting temperatures here that I using combination for different projects. The soldier gets cut into small pieces or Palin's you ting. The red handles snips as I keep those little pieces in the labeled boxes that you can see do. Make sure that you label your boxes because once a soldier is cut up, you won't be hard to tell which is which. Melting temperature. My curl over the ends off the sticks of solder so that I can tell which melting temperature they are, the more cold over they are, they're higher. The mountain temperature, bright yellow liquid is a flux. Solder won't actually flow out through the joining unless you use a flux with it. Andi, the paintbrushes. What I used to apply the flux to the joints in my work. Small projects like hearings only need a small blowtorch, and I've got two different makes of those here. Both of them are easy to refill with the gas that comes in aerosol cans. Since the same type of gas, butane gas that you use to reform cigarette lighter. At the back of the picture, you can see a so cooker that Scots a very mild acid solution. Good safety pickle in it. When you heat silver up, the surface becomes not darker and dirtier looking that some of the capo in the study silver reacting with the heat and auction flame to forward cause copper oxides on the safety pickle cleans it a couple oxides up before you put your work in the safety pickle, it needs to be cooled down or quenched in a pot of water. Andi, you need to put your work in and out of the safety pickle with brass or plastic tweezers. Not the stainless steel ones that I showed you before and thus, but definitely not least our have safety glasses. You've only got one pair of eyes. Look after them carefully. 5. Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets - soldering: what's the decorative rivet head has being prepared. So once you've cut the shape out, giving it whatever texture you wanted to have the next stage is to solder a piece of wire sticking at right angles up out of the rivet. And it's actually very much like soldering, a stunt fitting on the back of a study hearing. So push a short length over no 0.8 millimeters. Why, this is probably about 13 14 millimeters and it's actually a piece. The while that's left over from one of rivets form the simple y rivet class with those little people silver flowers, all the wooden beats make her hearings. I've got the discus are meeting for riveted through the head of the rivet Here. I've got a piece of easy soda here, so one soldier joined, so I need to use easy soldier. So So I'm going to do and see the the flux. Just hear this bright yellow liquid here spent to dip the, um pin in their of that up the way cause I don't want to get the flame on it I'm going to do is to melt that soldier in place on the end of the wire. Yes, The soldier is now exactly where I want it to be. So what I'm going to do now? What's the, uh, disk that's going to form the middle of my flower here, put it decorated side or hamed side down. So I'm going to do is just practice where I want to put this rivets in the middle there and just gently lift my, um, tweeters out of the way. So just pivoting my hand out of the way. So So I can put a bit of heat into the disk without this being in the way and then bring it back in when things are getting hot enough. Okay, so that's the soldier run. Should be able to see a nice line. A soldier around the bottom of that rivets that brighter area there. I do need to point out at this step that you don't want to use too much, soldier, because if you end up with a lot of excess soldier around here, then it's going to mean that you are not going to be able to sit decorative rivets right up tight up against the two layers that you're putting together. Because the excess solder won't be out to fit into the hole that you drilled on Air Force, that the direction of head of the Rivet assistant crowned. So this now used to be quenched, and he's going to pickle to clean up. Well, I'm then going to put it in my tumble polisher to give a bit of a polish, because obviously, once it's in place, a wouldn't be. They can't push it. Then on whilst, well, that is happening. I'm going to drill the hole through the silver flower on the wooden bead in preparation for the rivet. 6. Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets - drilling: I've got the bench drill out because I want to drill the hole right through both of silver flower on the wooden beach to accommodate the rivet. Andi, I've put a piece of magic scotch tape across the silver flower and should be able to see also that lived about the light that I've used a Sharpie to mark the middle of the flower because that's why I went to drill the hole. So what? The wouldn't beat to the top of the whole The What's down there says running in that section. There were flower to bay about there, so just looking at the bottom of the whole. So the bush, Um, yeah, the bottom of the hole down there, The bottom of the bead. Yeah, that whole. If I put a flower there, that dot is out of the way off the whole running through the beach, the whole that I was an threat, a head pin through to turn into a pendant. So that's what securely held in place. Now, remember, I'm using a no 0.82 millimeter Drillbit. I'm using that because the rivet is made of no 0.8 millimeter. Why on we want the two to be a re snuck fit. So we need to tell you along and get this whole route. You can see the dark solved us, although again saying he 70 gold through the beach. Andi, hopefully you can see the whole just about all the back of the bead there. So, like San, each do is take this tape. Oh, make sure no stray bits of sawdust in between the beat on the back of the flower because that could cause problems. I'm during the riveting, so I need to get to the deck, rivet out of the tumble polisher Onda, assemble everything and finish off that rivet. 7. Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets - finishing the rivet: So these three pieces that are going to make up the rivets on materials that can be riveted together Andi once find that whole Once that's gone soon I see little bit of a a little bit of a wiggle need it. It took she for once. That went so you pretty nice. They have had ones that I really had to fiddle about at the back, with a pair of pliers supported through that's come through nicely, however, you know what you can tell him, but my decorative rivet is actually still sitting a little bit flush on, def. Remember at the silvery section of class, I said, You must make sure that you don't use too much solder when you're soldering the rivet onto the back of the decorative section because it would prevent the dextrous section from seeing flush up against everything else because the excess soldier wouldn't be out of it in the hole. Now, despite me trying to use some, make sure that I didn't use any excess older. I still got that problem, not as much as he has might happen. It's not too bad, but I can definitely least now if I could get River back out again. So two things that I could do to try and solve that problem and these two tools that can be used. I've got a 1.2 millimeters drill bit. Andi, I've got a needle file now. The drill bit can be used to recess the hole in the silver ever so slightly. So if I feel a bit sad, the way I hold that insight, the flower hole on Just twist ever so gently that starts to recess. The whole I got to see now it's very, very subtle. But as I move this battle light, I can see a writer rim around that hole. That shows me that I have started twisted through. I have started to make a difference, So if I put this packs for again, it was a bit better. Does such a little bit lower. But I could make that better still, so the other things I could do much do maybe in a little bit more joining out and they don't want to do too much because you're still want to go hold the way through silver. But yes, thing I could do is movers orbit of the soldier from around the outside. I can see actually that, like maybe get a better view. My eyes he can through the camera. I can see there was a little bit of extra soldier, so watch a needle file here. Family of about in the light should be able to see that there, this is the back on. There were no faulty from the back. There's some of this site, but no the back and its so called a Brett file. The shape fit. It's slightly trying goes well. It's really good for getting too tight spaces. It's also really good for making joy. Only fire when you want to, because its safety backed the teeth. The teeth Teoh, in this case, file up against the stone because you want to make sure you don't follow the stoma. Weaken it. So I'm just going to use that. It's gonna use it to remove some access, soldier. Now it doesn't matter if I put fire marks on the back off this decorative rivets becomes No one didn't see the back access , so it was just were young, one side like this. So I stem. See how that does. That's a lot better and to a little bit more. We're moving material around that whole recessing the whole little bit more. That's I'm happy with that. That's sitting, I think, is as flush as I'm going to be able to make it. So put that back through again on and next thing I need to do is reduce the height of that rivet because it is definitely to at the moment. So that's the way the tools that we don't need. Andi bring in my Sharpie. There are different ways that people like to use to be out to mark off the amount of why that you need to finish off the rivet on the back of your piece of work or with a different message. What they have in common is that they are allowing you just to leave a teeny tiniest amount of silver. All that you really need to finish off the rivet head. Some people that used piece of card or maybe a playing card and cut a hole it and fit the whole over the rivet and use that as a guys to how much to cut off. But I prefer to use the Sharpie, so we're coming a little bit closer now. The camera at a lower level now. So I fished that finding and filling about with the whole. So you get a different view. I bought the camera down lower now, so you could hope to get a better view of this next part of finishing off the rivet. Andi. But my finger behind it makes the basin rivet more visible. He could see it far too long at the moment. So what I'm going to do is used the great chip of my ultra fine sharply as a guide as to how much wire to leave on here. Andi, I do is come right next to the back on draw a line. It is just the wits of this ultra fine Shockey, Andi, and see, hopefully a darker line on there. I'm just going to use that as a guide. That's how much cut off, making shorts on, pushing down the rivet so that I really have got all the access sticking up here. I don't want to accidentally leave it to know. So that really is just a tiny amount that should be able to see that Still, that tiny Dr Silver I can catch my finger on it. But I said, Time out left and that is all this is needed to finish it off. So I've got to. My lovey little riveting hammer will be nice and light light because you don't want great to wait behind it. Teoh do any damage to this ward. You just want to a hammer on the silver, not on the wood itself, but what everything sitting on the rubber block on. The reason for that is that this is a nice, really from hard surface, but it's not as hard as thes still bench blocks that you have seen me use in the first half hour earrings fast on the first part of this riveting Siri's on the reason why I don't want you to steal block. It's I've got a nice hammered texture on the circle that's forming the front off the decorative rivet like if I had this other still bench block dis riveting on the back, I would start to damage that texture underneath, so I might just do a little bit more hammering a little bit. Time it more force with the hammer to compensate for the fact that this is a little bit softer, but this is a really good compromise. It's really nice and firm. It's have been hold everything steady, but it's not going to do any damage to the front. Off the design. So remember the way this works is that metal moves at right angles to the head of the hammer. So by hammering like so I started to do, is spread out the metal in that direction. So the no point hate millimeters of metal is not very much at all has started to spread out . A little bit of I turn the anger of the hammer. It's going to start spreading out in different directions. Here's gonna mushroom out slightly. Andi, remember, this is a no 0.8 millimeter hole that the wire was going through his well, so I don't need to really increase the size of the Riverhead very much in order to prevent it from going back to the hole. - I'm making sure as I'm hammering, by the way, yes, I am pressing down. I'm holding everything firm up against this. Revenge isn't moving about on the other side. I can see that the top of the riveters getting what shiny can see is it definitely is having an impact. Um, from the hammer started, spread out was this What next could see is getting bigger, stopped using the other side That helps to spread it out a little bit more and also smooth it up against the wooden being. So I think it's supposed to have a bit more. You can see it's definitely more hammering cause it's all necessary Would have been on the still block If you compare this to when I finish off the rivets on the back of the silver Flower Earrings case , it s still moving about a little bit there. But the test, see if I can Actually, I can't take super flower off. However, I think I can get that a little bit tighter. Says one last trick to show you. That's just to say that the advantages of having chosen the textures I have on the front here is that I can actually we're still bench. Look over here on touch up that way. Andi, just use a still block to act on the river to the back, do a little bit more hammering on the front here. Now do that very carefully, um, trying to move the seat, so see it mostly having bought the camera down so you can see that the rivet more easily. That's actually made a good difference. So, office. You can only do that if you are, if you're using the same hammer that you've used to put the texture in front. But that was, that's done is it's allowed a little bit more flattening out the rivet at the back here against the steel bench block. If I hadn't been able to do that, then said that where would just done some all hovering with the riveting hammer on that would had the same effect? Or I've been up to do by putting it on the still pinch Brooke is just speed the process up a little bit, so I have one more thing left to do. Andi, that's to finish off this pendant with a head pain go through the middle 8. Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets - making the headpin: it's time to make the head pin that I'm going to throw through the beat on the beat into dependent on. I'm going to make that by melting a ball at one end off seven centimeter length off no 70.8 or 20 gauge. Sunny civil waas I've cut here. I've cut seven cents images because the bead is four centimeters in length. That gives me plenty of silver to built amount of a ball at the end and turned a wrapped loop at the top. There will be a little bit of excess because when I turned the rap fluke, I'm going to need that with access to hold on to to pull the wire around. But that well, as you've seen before in my file, says hopefully No, the silver my workshop have it really goes to waste? It went up on the scrap party. Get used for something else. I set the soldering station up so that I've got my sword blow torch on the left because I'm right handed, so I'm going to come in from the right. But you don't want to come in across the flame small blowtorch. So we need for this. I've got some fire bricks behind SOS making a bit of extra fireproofing. I've also got my quench parts here so I can drop the wire straightening. I'm holding the wine hair off river section tweezers and I'm just gonna hold the wire just in front of the blue chip of the cone that she could see here. That's the hottest parts of plane you can see very quick. I'll give you a close up of that head pin in a moment. Doesn't take longer tool. You may have noticed that I was moving a wire around just a little bit silky piece in the flame. Still keep eating the hottest past the flame. But I found Percy that by moving it around a little bit. I get the nicest shape to the ball at the end of the wire, so I'll show you a close up for such a stunt. That's the head pin with the tip of the reverse action tweezers for help with a bit of scale as well as you can see, the ball on the bottom isn't massive, but that's enough to stop the wife of goals by through the beach. It's going to allow the Beato hang in place of the transit dependent after the head pin has been cleaned up in the pickle. You could if you wanted to put in a tumble polisher to give shine. But it's such a simple, small piece of silver that I'm just going to give it a polish where the polishing cloth and that will be enough. The next stage in the class is going to be putting the head pin on the wooden bead together to turn the wooden bead and the butterfly into a pendant. 9. Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets - finishing the pendant: head pins finished on, giving it a nice polish with a polishing class could, of course, put it in a tumble polish if you want to. But a polishing cloth gives a nice and finish just smoothing it out. Wittman. With my fingers on bond, I sorted through the beat. We'll see the ball at the end, defensive going all the way through so the bees can't hang from that to for love dependent . I'm going to turn a wrapped loop at the top of that beat. It's a loop that then the excessive The wire is twisted to coiled around the stem toe. Hold it tightly closed. If you're not already confidence, we're turning back glutes and do download thes step by step photo tutorial that I've added to the fast materials. I'm going to use the round those supplies to start me off. I'm going to hold the why are about to quarter the way down the playa us against the bees have made sure that the beads abortion of the hedge green is tight up against dependent. I don't want to do it up there in half. Access Top from bottom wanted to be nice and neat I'm going to bends the wire so that it's about right angles to where it comes to the beach. But then just twists the pliers round, move them around so that one knows and applies is sitting up on the top there so I can pull the wire up over down the site that starts to form a group but supplies back in. So that knows it's now. However, this side out of the way twists the wire around to form the rest of sleep so that it's our crossing back over itself on. And so going to do now is start wrapping that tail around stem. I'm going to use the flat nose pliers, just two apps that we get a firmer grip on the wire. Certain. Get it nice and tight. A new coil. Well, then use Why cut is just a couple off excess wife on that piece of wire. Be useful for forming a rivet or two so but the basis dependent their very last things I need to do is a threat. Shane through that loop, and then we have another lovely pendant with a decorative rivet on the front, the different layers of sign held firmly together, but the decorative rivet to means that you see something pretty rather than a rivet head 10. Riveting Part 4 - final thoughts: So that's one pair of earrings, aunt to pendants made so far in this riveting course. I hope you've got room in your jewelry box for a few more because we've got a few more techniques to go through under lots of projects, as I want to share with you. I do like using decorative rivets in my work because they are lovely way of adding something from it. More special to your riveted designs, a nice way of lowering everything together without showing a horrific head on the front. So I'm really looking forward to seeing what you make of this project. What designs you come up with and, of course, what materials you choose to live it together. Just because I'm using silver on would in the first few classes in this course doesn't mean that you have to use a credit shaped leather fabrics value minion sheet. The only limit really is your imagination. Thank you for watching on. I'm looking forward to seeing you in the other classes in this course