Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets | Joanne Tinley | Skillshare

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Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets

teacher avatar Joanne Tinley, Jewellery Designer, Tutor and Writer

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets


    • 2.

      Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - materials


    • 3.

      Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - equipment


    • 4.

      Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - a few pieces from the soldering kit


    • 5.

      Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - shaping the butterfly


    • 6.

      Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - preparing the rivets


    • 7.

      Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - drilling 1


    • 8.

      Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - finishing the first rivet


    • 9.

      Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - drillling 2


    • 10.

      Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - finishing the second rivet


    • 11.

      Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - making the headpin


    • 12.

      Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - finishing the pendant


    • 13.

      Riveting Part 2 - final thoughts


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About This Class

Soldering is great fun and opens up a whole new world in jewellery making, but sometimes it's just as great to use materials that don't stand the heat! That's where rivets come in - a cold connection technique that holds layers of a jewellery design together without the need for a blowtorch.

This second class in my series moves on from the simple wire rivets covered in class one. This time we're going to learn how to use two wire rivets to hold layers of your design together, making sure that everything fits together perfectly.Two wire rivets are perfect for holding larger pieces together, and of course once you've learnt how to use two rivets you can just as easily add in more!

I'm going to make a pendant in the video to show you all the different steps. The top layer on my design is a butterfly sawn from silver sheet and I'm going to rivet it onto a wooden bead - however you could use them to layer copper onto brightly coloured acrylic, patterned pieces cut from a recycled biscuit tin onto silver or leather and metal. The only limit is your imagination and riveting is a great way of using upcycled materials!

Future classes in the series will take you through how and when to use one or more decorative rivets and also how to make rivets from tube. More videos with extra projects to help you practice your new skills will then follow!

The first class in the course can be found at:

Riveting Part 1 - Simple Wire Rivets

Further classes in the course can be found at:

Riveting Part 3 - Decorative Rivets

Riveting Part 4 - Double Decorative Rivets


Meet Your Teacher

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Joanne Tinley

Jewellery Designer, Tutor and Writer


I have been making jewellery for as long as I can remember, and have been passing these wonderful (and addctive!) skills on through my classes for nearly 20 years. I am self-taught and like many people I started with wire and beads. Learning how to solder, however, opened up a whole new world of jewellery making! There is something so magical about watching solder flow through a seam, joining two pieces of metal together smoothly.

My studio is in Southampton, on the South Coast of the UK. I design and make jewellery for galleries across the UK, teach regular and popular jewellery design workshops, and also offer private tuition. My jewellery design projects have been published in both UK and US magazines and books.

Visit my Etsy shop, Jewellers Bench Shop, for jewellery ma... See full profile

Level: Beginner

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1. Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets: Hello, My name is John Tinley. I rejoice designer and shooter from the South Face UK on Welcome to the second In my Siris of riveting classes There's going to teach you all the fantastic ways we use different styles of rivets to layer together different materials that you can't soldered together in this class. I'm going to be using rivets toe hold a beautifully textured silver butterfly onto wouldn't beat to make dependent But you could actually use any materials that you like a critic Leather, Russians, fabric, aluminium are all fantastic materials to use in jewelry design. But the thing that they have in common is that they can't be stored, did they? Can't be stone The heat from the blowtorch so riveting them together is a perfect technique . Two years this time I'm going to teach you how to use to rivets to meet the hold their together. Using multiple rivets on one piece of jewelry is a little bit more challenging because you really need to make sure that the holes you drill for the rivets are lined up perfectly because the holes that you make for a rivet have to be the exact same diameter is the rivet itself. So things out of line, even by a millimeter, that is, venture cause problems in jewelry making. So I'm going to show some techniques to help you make sure that everything is lined up perfectly if you haven't already done so. I do recommend that you watch the first class in this Siris of different riveting techniques that would teach you how to choose just one wind of it does that will give you a head start in this project. I think, too, that Klaus is in the class description. One technique that were not kind to cover in these classes, though, is how to saw accurate again, smoothly out or metal sheet. And that's because I really want to focus on riveting techniques in this Siri's. However, I do have plenty of other classes that take you through how to surround metal sheet, and I would like to some of those as well in class description. There will also be a pdf off hints and ticks to help you to improve your sewing technique attached to this class. Father classes in this course will take you through other riveting techniques, for example, how to make your designs look fancy of by using decorative rivets. For the moment, though, that's focus on materials and the equipment that you're going to need to make double. Why rivets? 2. Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - materials: the's the materialist I'm going to use to make my pendant. The base of the pendant is going to be this lovely. Asymmetrical wouldn't be with a really nice wide flat surface on the flat surface is important so that I've got enough space to be able to rivet my design on top. Onda also that there's enough space to be able to drill a couple of holes through the bead without affecting the whole that runs from top and bottom of the bead that I'm going to threaten the head pain through the design that I'm going to rivet. On top is a butterfly that I've cut out off no 0.7 millimeters stoning. So was sheet. I've texted the sheet with one of my own design of texture sheets I use in the rolling mill . But if you're using silver than that, you could hammer design in either directly with hammers or using texture punches. Of course, as rivets are a cold connection, they don't need any heat when soldering to fix a layers off the jury together, you don't have to use silver. You don't have to use something that you can solder so you could use a section off on a biscuit tin. You could use some aluminium. Of course you can die Alami and some beautiful colors you don't surf. We wanted to use a layover critic, for example. As this class focuses, are riveting. We're not going to be covering the soaring techniques that I used to cut out the Silver Butterfly. Although we are going to be covering how to make head pins because that's a a fairly quick thing to cover. It won't take too much attention away from the rivets. I will, however, attached a pdf with hints and tips about soaring to the class materials. Andi I will also list in the first information links to classes that do cover soaring technique. So if you're not really confident with that technique, there will be plenty of help for you. Still, the rial of why that you can see here is not 0.82 millimeter or 20 gauge round sterling silver wire, and I'm going to be using their spoke to form the rivets that are going to hold the butterfly onto the bead on the head pen that will go through the bead to turn it into a pendant. 3. Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - equipment: the's the hunt tools I'm going to use to make the double riveted butterfly pendant. If, like me, you're cutting a shape out off either silver sheet or in a biscuit tin piece of copper, then you're going to need a jeweler's saw with a saw blade to cut it out on a bench. Paige to support your work on because I'm cutting silver, I went to make sure psych electoral the dust on that's going to end up in my scrap pot South Gosh and eight from underneath the bench. Paige to collect jewel of that dust. I'm going to use the sharp Peter draw the outline of the butterfly it I'm going to saw on. I'm also going to use that to help me mark out the amount or why the time went to cut for the rivets and I've got a ruler to help me mark out the length of the rivets as well. I was a selection off different shaped needle files. I'm going to use those to meeting up around the age of the butterfly. I'm going to use thief latch needle file to make sure that the ends of the rivets of flat as well, The small hammer that you can see here is a riveting hammer. It's got across pinhead. Andare explained a while about how that had helped to shape the head of the rivet. It has a nice light weight to it because you don't want to hit the rivet too heavily, while some preparing the first head on each rivet, I'm going to hold the wire in clamp that clamps onto the edge of my work desk. I'm going to use my bench drill to drill to north 0.8 millimeter holes through both the silver on the wooden beads that the silver butterflies going to be riveted onto. They need to be no 0.8 millimeter holes, because the Y this I'm going to use the rivets is not 0.8 millimeter or 20 gauge. And it's important when riveting, that the rivet on the whole is it. Passes through are exactly the same diameter. I was a pair of wire cutters, obviously, to cuts the wire for both the rivets. Andi, the wife of the head pendant. I'm going to pass through the beads so that I can wrap a loop at the top and threaded change through to turn the bead into a pendant. I'm going to use around those pliers. The nine on your pliers. Flat nose applies to manipulate the wire as well. The real of much Scotch tape is here because I'm going to use that to temporarily hold the silver butterfly onto the wooden bead to help me to drill the holes in the right place. I was a still bench block where the leather cushion underneath to support it and helped reduce the noise of the hammering to support the work. Whilst I'm finishing off the second head on the rivets, Andi, Although I'm not going to be doing any dome ing, I've got a couple of metal dome ing punches here as well on The reason for that is that I am going to use nine on your pliers to curve the butterfly ice, likely to bend the wings up a little bit, bring it to life. So when I'm doing some of the hammering to finish off the rivet, I won't want to put the butterfly flat down on a steel bench block because that would ruin the shaping. I'm going to use a suitably sized handle on a dome ing punch to support the butterfly. Instead, we do need a little bit of equipment from the soldering kit, even though this isn't a soldering project because we're going to be making a head pin, so let's have a look at that now. 4. Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - a few pieces from the soldering kit: we're not gonna be doing any soldiering on this project. You are going to need a few bits out the soldering kit to make the hedge pins. Of course you can if you want to choose to buy the head pains instead. But it's fun to make them. I've got a pair of er section treaters. Hold the while I'm working with it and a pair of brass tweezers to put the white in and out of the pickle. The tweeters are sitting on a couple of soldiering bricks on, and they are intensity on couple off site tiles. All of that is going to add a bit of fireproofing to my work desk. We're just going to need a small blowtorch for the project, but I've got the high technical quench pot for cold water on my slow cooker. But for the safety, Pickle says, I can call the work down and clean it up. Remember, Sterling Silver has got 7.5% copper in it, and that's reacts with the heat and oxygen the flames because copper oxides, the safety pickle, helps clean out off, and it works best and fastest when it's a war. The plastic sieve is there because it can save you a little bit of time and trouble. I'm going to drop the finished head pins inside the sieve in the quench pot to call them down and then put the sieve in the safety pickle. It would just mean that I don't have to go fishing around at the bottom of the quench pot or the safety pickle forward by small, thin head pence if you're going to follow that tip. So please make sure that your sieve is just plus that you don't want any metal bits in there. Otherwise, they could cause problems that could actually discolor the silver when it's inside the pickle. Last but definitely not least have safety glasses. You've only got one pair of eyes. Please do look after them. 5. Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - shaping the butterfly: before I do any drilling, I want to curve the winds on the butterflies orbit to bring its A life a little bit. I could just leave it flat, but I think shaping is little bit will bring its on life on, make the jury a bit more special. In theory, I could get a small pair of pliers, or maybe used the end in a bit of a burnish er to bend up the wings of the butterfly after it's being riveted onto the wooden bead. But that would risk stretching the holes in the silver on, and therefore that could actually weaken the rivet. So it's actually better to do everything you need to to the pieces that you're going to be riveting before you actually rivet them together. I'm just going to use nine and your pliers to do this job. They're going to allow me to bend the wings the butterfly quite easily without leaving any marks. So what I'm going to do, it's just hold the butterfly wings. Andi just bend ever so slightly strange that a little bit of time such I don't bend them too much on the same with the bottom rings as well. So just staying a bit of a a gentle curve might be able to see those. It's patching on my finger. It really does a little bit of shape. We re just bring it to life. That's all that's needed. I don't want them sticking out too far because the butterflies far more likely to catch on things as you wear it. So just satisfied with his shaping. It's all is all that's needed. So now that the butterflies prepared, I need to prepare the rivets. 6. Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - preparing the rivets: cut to a two centimeter lengths of the north 20.8 millimeter wire and see one says you on top. The clamp onto the other might just be able to see the top poking out of the clamp itself, these two pieces of wire going to form the rivets that are going to hold the butterfly onto the wooden beat. And in this section class, I'm going to show you how to create a head on one end of each piece of wire on that head will be slightly bigger than the North 10.8 millimeter wire, and therefore it wont be able to go through the North 0.8 millimeter hole that I'm going to drill in both the silver butterfly on the wooden baby. This is the reason why the whole that you said the rivet through on Duthie, gauge of the why have to be exactly the same. You want a really nice tight fit so nothing moves about and wobbles about, and usually you want to the rivets to be nice on discrete. You don't want them to be too big, and if you had to make the head on the rivet really quite large, prevented from going through a larger whole. It wouldn't be so subtle going to be using the riveting hammers I showed you earlier to form the head on the first sign of each piece of why Andi, as I just mentioned before, is across peen hammer the side that we're going to use initially. I use this side later to tidy up the rivets right at the end. But this is the side that actually forms the rivet head on. Did you may have heard me say in other classes that Meshal moves at right angles The head of the hammer, right, angles ahead of this hammer. We'll see how we're going that direction, right? Angles is in that direction. So as I hammer, the metal moves slightly in that directions, what I'm going to do is start to hammer on the river. It ever so likely it's going to spread out in that direction and then going to turn the hammer and hammer in a different direction on the metal. Most read out of it again. I'm gonna keep doing that in the heat. Turning the hammer blows around so that it spreads out in different actual time. So you end up with what I can nail head on the rivet that will prevent that piece of wire from going all the way through the whole I'm going to drill. I've only got a little bit of the wire sticking up, because if I had a lot of it sticking up for trying push up a little bit, I had said even half that amount sticking up as I hammered. Even though it's very light, Hammer blows that why would bend over Andi. Although I got to get most of the kinks out, it could make it more difficult to thread that rivet through the very tight fitting hole. So we're not going to do that to move that one out of the way. So it doesn't jump about as a time during the riveting. I'm going to have a friend it out the bottom. Here. I've cut the wire two centimeters because it is just about long enough so I could feel the wild bottom, Um, underneath the where is being held in the clamp so I can have my finger there just to prevent it from being pushed down, because as I hammer it is going to move down a bit. So in here it's very, very light taps. And when you start off, you may miss the wire as much as you actually hit it. But don't want. Your aim will get better. Persevere, I said. I'm going to turn some hitting from different direction. I can see the top of the rivet has become shiny er, as I've been hitting it and I can actually say, Well, my fingernail applies a piece of wire that's sticking out. I can feel that there is a excess mint metal at the top, so it's working. But why is wider at the top? I had started to form that rivet head in continuous obit. Hey, that is actually all that's needed. So take that one out. Now. Trying to lose it is very small. Still say that that length. So on this end, I can see, and also I could easily feel that there was some excess metal a little bit of a said, but wait describable base for a nail head, and that is all that's needed to prevent that wire from going through the hole that we're going to drill. So I'm going to do the next rivets. Now I'm one thing I did forget to mention before my apologies. Is it? Before I put this piece of waas first rivet in the in the clamp, I used the needle file just to make sure that's the end of the wire with nice and flush. It wasn't cut to an angle. Agent Harmony shop bits sticking up on it doesn't need very much again putting this one in so seven years, a piece of metal you're sticking up. Tighten up camp Hedge My C does warble little bit. Tighten it up. That's going to be taking it apart to tighten it up. But it's find for this job so again, sticking up a little bit. So exactly same as before. I'm going to hammer saying that ham around so that the metal spreads out, but a top of the world. So again I could feel nail heads there has all that's needed, so I've now got to rivets formed. It's Does this send so that Sandy to do now is so drilling 7. Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - drilling 1: I set up my bench drill to start drilling the holes for the rivets. Now, if you've watched the first of my video classes on riveting, that just uses one rivet to hold a little silver flower on a wooden beat Creighton hearing . So I had to rivets, but only one on each piece. Then you have seen me take the flower to the wooden bead on drill through both at the same time, but I thought would be good this time to show you that you can drill through the holes in the first layer on, then continue to drill through the holes in the second layer or subsequent layers afterwards. So the moment I just can't drill the holes in the civil butterfly. But you can see that they moved about in the lights that I've got a couple of Sharpie marks on their to show me where I want to put the holes on day trading into the wooden block as well. See, need something underneath your piece of work for the George going to, so it's not going to either damage the drill or damage that the surface off the base here. Remember that I've got a not 0.8 millimeter Drillbit because the wireless I've used to make the rivets is itself not 0.8 millimeter, a 20 gauge wire on, and the two have to be a perfect fit. So I'm going to turn the drill on and drilled two holes in the butterfly. 1st 1 drills because I want these two really perfectly lined up. I invented Take the time to switch to drill off to line up for the second hole. Wilding going straight on driving it says two holes in the butterfly. See them as I moved about a fly around. So what I want to do now issues a piece of tape that I've already prepared to put the butterfly onto the wooden beat, and I'm just going to drill the top hole. Initially splay naturals. I got everything set up. I'll take the butterfly, too. There wouldn't be the right to use a couple of pieces off a tape because as a curved shape , it wasn't quite so easy to hold in place. But I've been quite careful to position it, so that's the two holes that I drill won't go through the whole that's running down the middle of the beat. Now, they said, I'm just going to drill one hole through the wouldn't beat at the moment, just the top hole. So I'm going to reinsert the drill, bit through the whole the top hold in the silver butterfly, and then Joe Further wouldn't be, and I'm then going to thread a rivet through those two holes together on rivets. The two together finish off the rivets just at the top. Only then, when the first rivet is completely finished, am I going to drill the second hole through the wooden bead on, then finish off that rivet. The reason for this is that, as I drew through the second hole through the wouldn't beat. Then the silver bus fly might shift a little bit. Whilst that's happening, Andi, I might not end up with the holes being perfectly lined up. And, of course, that would spoil either the silver butterfly or you wouldn't be on. Every Gotsche to feed wouldn't be left, and I've got the last one here. March for another riveting projector. Show you to a later date, so completing one rivet before finishing, drilling the holes for the second way. Subsequent rivets have you got more than two is just making sure that everything stays nicely lined up. So let's get all in drill That first hole through that wouldn't be. It's worth is taking the time to make sure that everything is still nicely lined up. I got a little bit of still, just not as much as I was expecting, but the hole is now drilled all the way through that silver butterfly on. Then the wouldn't beat. So what I'm going to do in the next section, the video class is insert the rivet or the way SARU and finish off that first rivet. 8. Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - finishing the first rivet: now about the first rivet, said it through the whole insist it clear if I put my finger behind. It took a little bit of wiggling to get it through those too tightly fitting holes in the silver Andi in the woods. But the united your pliers help me to do that on. Does it could see as I pull on the average of the back, although the bead so the butterfly can move around on the beat. The wire. The rivet itself can't be pulled all the way through. So the next job yes I've got is a trim off the excess y on that rivet because it's definitely too long at the moment. I want a tiny little bit sticking at the top on, then to Hama, the second on this end of the rivet to get it fitting closely up against silver. People use different message to help them work out how much wire to trim off, or rather, how much want to leave behind for the rivet? Some people use a playing hard or another thin piece of card with a hole cut in. It puts that that whole over the wire rivet on, then use the wire cutters up against the piece of card to slip off the excess, leaving that just such that cards wits behind my preference is to use an ultra thin Sharpie on. I'm just going to mark a line on the rivets summit. He sure that the riveters pulled all the way through zits flush up against the silver Andi just going to mark on their especially over the marker. Pain wasn't working at first, but it's just marked on their the A line. Just the wits, that ultra thing sharply right up against the back of the wooden bead. So I'm just going to true that off was he can see if I put my finger up against that. You can see it's not, um, a big amount tool to make sure that's pushed all the way through. No, because the butterfly is curved. That said, I don't want to put this upside down on a still bench block because it would damage the wings of the butterfly. So what I'm going to do instead is position it so that it's on the handle of this book in. So this is so one of the doing punches from my domain punching blocks set, and that will allow the other head of the rivet to be up against something hard. That's going Teoh. Support it, Andi. I can hold everything her on that curve. I did mention it. I might hold this in my clamp, but I decided having it on the leather cushion is actually a little bit easier. So I'm going to do now is use the same riveting hammer. Just mama on this side. The rivet I can't. It's still a gentle something in different directions, making sure that's the butterfly. So the rivet on the other side on the butterfly is pushed up against the butterflies on it . Hold it quite firmly on here, but because it's a gentle tap. So I thought the wooden bead in between my hammer on the silver. The fact that this is on something hard isn't going to damage that in Boston. Texture on the on the butterfly, - you used the other side of the hammer now, so make sure that that rivet is myself against us. I beat Andi can see the butterflies and twisting round as much. Now I can still make it move, but it's not moving as much. So oh, that's in place there and again. Just shoes flat, rounded side. Just get over Britain, the first side that I fought as well just to make sure that's nice and smooth. So that's now in place. I can't put it off. I can still twist the butterfly around a bit, but I can't put it off. Um, and I can twist it around a bit because it's such a big piece off silver riveted on so riveted onto the wooden beat. But that is the reason why I'm doing to rivets. So to make sure that the the butterfly is in particular positions is not going to keep moving around and do another rivet at that. Second, hold on the bottom, and once that's in place the butterfly. I'm not only be held firmly on the wooden beat, but it won't be hard to move around it all. So my next job is to drill that second home 9. Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - drillling 2: I've come back over the bench, Drill says. I couldn't drill the second hole on. Remember the reason why I have fridge or the first hole finished off? The first rivet on I'm only now during second hole through the wooden bead is that if I try to take the butterfly down your one hole and then the other, as I was during second hole, the butterfly would be likely to move so you'd end up with holes in the silver and the wood that wouldn't match up properly. And you do obviously need them to match up properly in order for the rivet to go through. So the first rivets being finished. I've taped a butterfly in position again. Andi, I'm going to drill that second home quite a bit more. Sold us this time. Why there wasn't the first time, but there we go. So there's the second hole drilled so I can untaes everything. Place thesis condemned, rivet through those holes and finish off the second, riveted on about 10. Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - finishing the second rivet: I started to push the second rivet through the silver butterfly on and the wooden bait on, and it's a very tight fit, so it's a bit of a A wiggle should just bounce bounce to see it. I moved to the light. You can see two dots of silver at the back. Now, that's not your smaller 11 that hasn't green. How wouldn't spread out is, uh, this rivets sticking out their side of the wood. So you used not on your applies. If I can, There we go. It does take a bit of effort to get the rivets through because they are a tight fit. Teoh. So again it's see the exactly same side hole as the rivet itself. So same with this 2nd 1 I'm going to use a Sharpie to mark a line showing where I want to trim off that rivets. If you left too much, why sticking out the top than you would eventually be able to form the rivets, but it wouldn't look so nice and neat on the back. It would have to be a bit bigger because you'd have more silver and what you might end up within seven nice, neat, small. So adopt is a bit of the this wire bent over information was hooked over into the wood. Some skin should not off. That really is very sin on again. Going to support the butterfly on the handle of this Tomeing punch. Just make sure it is pushed firmly up against the silver. It's not sticking out, Andi. Exactly same before use the riveting hammer to finish off that second Privett. - It's going to turn it over on and hit from the side moment just to make sure that that rivet is pushed firmly up against the silver because I'm hitting head on. I'm just hitting the rivets is the hammer isn't damaging the pattern on the butterfly? It's touching up the first rabbits as well. Okay, so yes, you can see actually finishing off the rivets is is probably the quickest part of the job. Once you should be able to get the rivet through the tight hole. So what she rivets on the front to nice, neat rivets on the back on the butterfly is not only how firmly and securely on the wood, but also at the angle, as I wanted to 12. So The very last job is to make ahead pen to go all the way through on DTI tongue a rupture loop up at the top so that I can have this a pendant hanging from a chain. 11. Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - making the headpin: it's time to make the head pin that I'm going to throw through the beets and beet into dependent on. I'm going to make that by melting a ball at one end off seven centimeter length off no 70.8 or 20 gauge. Sunny civil waas I've cut here. I've cut seven centimeters because the bead is four centimeters in length. That gives me plenty of silver to built amount of a ball at the end and turned a wrapped loop at the top. There will be a little bit of excess because when I turned the rap Floop, I'm going to need that with access to hold on to to pull the wire around. But that well, as you've seen before in my file, says hopefully No, the silver my workshop Have it really goes to waste? It went up on the scrap party. Get used for something else. I set the soldering station up so that I've got my sword blowtorch on the left side right handed, So I'm going to come in from the right, but you don't want to come in across the flame small blowtorch. So we need for this. I've got some firebreaks behind so is making a bit of extra fireproofing. I've also got my quench pot here siphoned Drop the wire straight in. I'm holding the wine hair off river section tweezers. And I'm just gonna hold the wire just in front of the blue tip of the cone that she could see here. That's the hottest parts of play you can see very quick. I'll give you a close up of that head pin in a moment. DOESn't take longer tool. You may have noticed that I was moving the wire around just a little bit silky piece in the flame. Still keep eating the hottest past the flame. But I found Percy that by moving it around a little bit. I get the nicest shape to the ball at the end of the wire, so show you a close up for such a stunt. That's the head pin with the tip of the reverse action tweezers for help with a bit of scale as well as you can see, the ball on the bottom isn't massive, but that's enough to stop the wife and girls by through the beach. It's going to allow the Beato hang in place of the transit dependent after the head pin has been cleaned up in the pickle. You could if you wanted to put in a tumble polisher to give shine. But it's such a simple, small piece of silver that I'm just going to give it a polish where the polishing cloth and that will be enough. The next stage in the class is going to be putting the head pin on the wooden bead together to turn the wooden bead and the butterfly into a pendant. 12. Riveting Part 2 - Double Wire Rivets - finishing the pendant: things time now to turn this lovely bead with its butterfly into a pendants. So I've got to the head pin that you just see me make. I've given it a quick polish with polishing cloths. That was all it's needed to give it a nice shy on and see at last week's board on the end has stopped the beat from going all the way through. So what I'm going to do is turn around loop at the top here to throat everything in place on did to create a look that the chains I've got just up here will that were then threat through, chosen to do a wrapped loop, Because when the excess wires wrapped around the stem that is going to hold the loop, security closed. I'm going to form it with the round nose pliers. If you're not already comfortable with turning wrapped loops and do download the step by step photo tutorials attached the class materials who that would help you to get a closer look at everything. So I've got to the pliers secured against the beat on and the wise about court. The weight down applies. It's going to bend the wire over. So it's about at right angles. Turn the pliers up so that why can then be bent up, over and down the other site that's gonna move that nose around a little bit. Cycm pulls the wire the rest of the way round. So now I've got the why I had it all the way around. The pliers is crossing back over itself. The next thing to do is stopped wrapping the wire around the stem on to help me get a better grip. It's going to use the's flat nose pliers because if you can get a better grip, you can call the Wydell bit tighter and get me to call. So that's that so far. Can't leave it like that, though, because this, um, excess y sticking out. So use that. Why cutters carefully. Just see snip that off. So one beat turned into a pendant on and can stretch change Through we go. One finished pendant with a beautifully textured silver butterfly safely is securely riveted in place 13. Riveting Part 2 - final thoughts: well, there we have a lovely butterfly pendant with the wings of a butterfly. Raise a little bit off the wooden beat, and I hope, you know more competent in using more than one. Why limit in your work and how to get those holes to line up perfectly So everything fits beautifully together. Of course, once you most this technique, you don't have to stick to just to my rivets. You might want to adding more Puritan front field worker but more decorative with the river heads, what they might be needed to hold large and layers of materials together into design. You just need to take your time to make sure that you don't to drill the holes for a rivet until you are ready for it to make sure that the holes are lined up exactly how they needed to be. As always, I'm looking forward to seeing the projects that you make with techniques in this class. Andi. I hope that you would join me in the future riveting classes to really make the most office great technique. For now, though, thank you for washing