Punch Needle Basics | Andie Solar | Skillshare

Playback Speed

  • 0.5x
  • 1x (Normal)
  • 1.25x
  • 1.5x
  • 2x

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.



    • 2.

      Punch Needles


    • 3.

      NEW punch needles


    • 4.

      NEW Sculpting scissors


    • 5.

      What is Punch Needle Rug Hooking?


    • 6.

      Frames and Hoops


    • 7.

      NEW Frames and hoops


    • 8.

      NEW Stretching fabric into a hoop


    • 9.



    • 10.

      NEW Fabric


    • 11.



    • 12.

      NEW Yarn from craft stores


    • 13.

      Let's Punch!


    • 14.

      NEW Let's punch!


    • 15.



  • --
  • Beginner level
  • Intermediate level
  • Advanced level
  • All levels

Community Generated

The level is determined by a majority opinion of students who have reviewed this class. The teacher's recommendation is shown until at least 5 student responses are collected.





About This Class

NEW April 3rd 2021 - New updated info for ya!

Come learn Punch Needle Rug Hooking with me!

The course goes over the basics including explanation how the tool works and supplies you need to make your own project.

Let's have fun!

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Andie Solar

@myraandjean | Punch Needle Fun


Hi guys, thank you so much for visiting my page!

I started @myraandjean in 2016, but it wasn't until a year later when I found punch needle rug hooking that I started focusing solely on fiber art. I started making kits when there weren't any available and later started teaching workshops.

Teaching has become my favorite part of owning a business and since I couldn't teach everyone who wanted to learn due to geographical restrictions I published an online course. I'm hoping to expand the library with fun videos that go more in depth when it comes to punch needle such as working on large scale projects and creating textured pieces with just one tool.

Recently, I have started a podcast called Makers Chat where I interview fellow artists and I'm having lots of fun ... See full profile

Level: Beginner

Class Ratings

Expectations Met?
  • 0%
  • Yes
  • 0%
  • Somewhat
  • 0%
  • Not really
  • 0%

Why Join Skillshare?

Take award-winning Skillshare Original Classes

Each class has short lessons, hands-on projects

Your membership supports Skillshare teachers

Learn From Anywhere

Take classes on the go with the Skillshare app. Stream or download to watch on the plane, the subway, or wherever you learn best.


1. Introduction: Hi, guys. Thank you so much for being here the first ever Jean. All like Courtis. Uh, this course will teach you everything that I know looking are bunch Needle works for me. What doesn't? Some general rules and tips. I'm also troubleshooting. If you find yourself stop, move forward. I will show you the different kinds of punch deals and the differences between them. What kind of materials you need to make your home Jack and out of 2. Punch Needles: Oh, right. Hello, everyone. I'm I wanted to make this updated video on punch eagles because you guys have been asking and I'm sorry I haven't done the sooner, but I have just been extremely busy. But today is the day, and I will tell you everything I know about these guys. So these punch eagles are to be used with yarn. And these punch eagles are to be used the way embroidery, thread and some of the finale orange. It really depends on the tip. So these guys are all a little bit different. The most well known bunch, it was the Oxford functional. It's made in the U. S. It's beautiful, it's wood, and the materials are all nice. And then this is my favorite needle, actually, but it is vintage at this point, and this continued. Unfortunately, um, it's similar to Oxford Needle in a way that it's the reddit. So usually most of these need a better to pull yard through them. However, these guys have a slip through, so they don't need um uh the threat er and the way you thread them is simply by taking your yarn. If I can find the end and inserting into the holding on to it a little bit and then pulling through the needle on just going back and forth a couple times and you read it a punch, this k similar. Except, um, you only threat this part and then the handle is not hollow. It's just a regular handle. And the reason being is because this has interchangeable tips, which is the reason I love this needle. So he's in a threat and interchangeable tips. This guy is the needle I started with. It's no longer made. It's just the basic punch needle. Uh, that does need us better. So let me show you how to thread these guys. So you go into the eye of the needle and then you continue all the way up, and this is the M C G textiles needle, if you can find it somewhere. Still great needle. And then you put the, um, urine through and then pulled to the other side until the yarn comes out or right here. You have to make sure that the yarn is going through here and also the little high here. Otherwise, it will not be staying in the fabricas you punch. This guy is threatened the exact same way. But the difference is that you can actually adjust the length of the loops that you are making. So it goes a is the longest. MND is the shortest that can have fun and create variable texture on the other side. So this guy is really my favorite. Honestly, I could make this needle. I would. Oh, my gosh. So good, because it has interchangeable tips on top of the fact that this actually has a little I can't find my other tip now, of course. But it has a little like an adjuster for length of the loops as well, so But it's not as good as this where you already have a, you know, a precept setting. So if I could have a needle that has a settings like this and men interchangeable tips, that would be amazing. But I don't think there's been one made yet. Um, so this guy, as I said, has four different settings, but it actually has a secret setting. At least that's what I call it. You can pull us out and you can make these ridiculously long loops with us. Uh, and They're great if you wanted to sculpting, which is what I've been doing recently. Just to show you an example, you make something like this. So it's super thick and just luscious and just, like, full of texture. So, you know, play around. I'm just gonna put this, okay. And this is also the needle that I use in all my kids that I saw as well. So, um hello. Welcome on this guy. And this is made by a company called SKC. But, you know, it's not really the one loan companies more just the manufacturer. I'm so here are these guys, and then these guys here are the most popular one from the other ones is the ultra punch. It's a really great quality. Needle also has preset settings for a length, but it does have interchangeable tips as well. So this is actually what I would want in a, um you know, yarn thickness. Unfortunately, this one only goes, I believe this might be the thickest tip. Not really sure. I don't really use the embroidery once too much. Kids. Yarn is my love. This guy is the love or needle, and it's nice because the dust of interchangeable tips. It comes with three like this so you can actually use a pretty thin yarn with it, which is nice. And you can also just Oops how long your loops will be as well. However, you don't have a preset length. So if you're working on a larger project and you want certain areas to have the same length , you'll have to mark your needle to notice how deep to put it in every single time. Um, this these two guys, I've only tried this one a couple times, and I did not really hear very good things about this guy. Ah, and the reason being mostly is because they are both very sharp, like needle sharp. And I've poked myself a couple times with this one. So I think it's very user from friendly and seeing these, it's just really not necessary for it to be middle sharks. This one is pretty sharp, but it's not like you know you can poke yourself, but I feel like what this one I'm injecting myself with something. So, you know, just my five. I'm in terms of I see fabric that you used with these guys. Sure, the debt. So the thinker needles need an open weave fabric. Something like this that you can see the holes in has a little bit of stretch to it. So Fabricant adjust to the needle being inserted and then pulling out and then closing up Theo yarn. And so it stays in the most popular one is called monks. Cloth smiled most widely used one. It's very high quality, very durable and actually uses for rugs. So highly recommend this one. This is linen. It looks like burlap, but it's actually linen on. And I love this one as well, especially if you're using something like this where you're not going to be punching background in. You just want to make a design and its own. Um so I prefer this one. And then this is, um, linen that you can find in craft stores has stretch in one direction. And this, um, can actually be used for the dinner needles that only use the embroidery threat. They hope they, um, give you enough information we were looking for. But in case you have more questions, please let me know in the comments below, or you can always message me here or on social media. Thank you guys. So much for watching 3. NEW punch needles: Okay, So in my three years of doing this, a really come up with my favorite supplies that I like to work with and I have some updated information for you. So I really want to show you, um, this punch needle is what I've been using the longest. And it is particularly great for sculpting projects because it has a Sue GLUT-2 per longs. And that's how you get really all the texture that you need in sculpted projects. For example. There's little monstera that I did. And it has really yummy profile and texture. And I did that one. That punch needle. If you've been following me for a while, you know that I love sculpting. And so this is the needle that I like to refer to because it does have the longest setting available. You have four different ones. These are kinda rubbed off because I've just been using it so often and also for my kids. So four different settings from the longest to the shortest. And like I said, the secret setting as well. You all know the Oxford needle. It's standard US made really nice materials. I don't use this. Actually rarely use this, even though it's a beautiful needle because it's not adjustable. So, um, my new favorite is the law bore needle that I'm sure you've seen me using RD. It is also adjustable so it has numerous settings. You can go from shortest to longest. And I also like this for sculpting with a little bit of a lower profile. Because when you compare to this needle, there's obviously gives you a little bit more space to work with and a longer loop. There are two lab or needles now and the reason I like them is, first of all, I'm higher-quality metal than this. And also the handles are recyclable, sorry, made from recycled plastic. And the tips, as you can see, one is thicker and one is thinner. So you get to use a bulky yarn with this one, and then you get to use medium yarn, this one. So these two have been staple in my work lately because I had been looking for a needle that takes a medium yarn that is also adjustable, and I found those in, I love it. So I highly recommend I have all of these in my shop. La Verne also weeks this embroidery style punch needle that comes with three different tips that you get to select based on how thick your yarn or threat is. So that's really lovely. It is adjustable as well. However, you don't have settings like here, so you kind of have to play around and if there, if you want to use the same one, I would mark the needle with a sharpie to ensure that your loops or even across the board. 4. NEW Sculpting scissors: When it comes to sculpting, you need really good scissors. These ones are something that is easily accessible. So I wanted to give you something that you can just run to the store and get if you need to. These two are face cards. These have a little spring here. So truly nice to get into all the details and just kind of edges. I love these for that. And then I love the bigger ones when I start the project, when I start sculpting and just kinda wanna go around and define the basic shape of it. That's what I use, but I kinda use them interchangeably. These guys. You can find in a hardware store. And I like to use surface cutting what done because the flat part lays flat on the surface. I can kinda be even and make sure I'm not twisting and turning my scissors like this so I can go and consistently trim at the same height. So that's these. 5. What is Punch Needle Rug Hooking?: So what is Lunch needle? How does it work? I get asked this all the time. People tell me I want your videos and they're so cool to watch. But I just don't get it out of the yard, Stace. And and it just come out and it's going through this needle. But I don't get it. So you're not alone. If you're thinking the same thing, I get this asked all the time, basically the way you need to imagine. ISS see this your that I can't on end off. Okay. So you can take the CR and imagine this is the are that you will have in your lunch and you will twit what the pensionable does. It could a continuous loop off this yard. So it's basically and so are always punch from the bath. The Panchito creates a little, and then it creates another one that creates Not so this is your continuous loop, and this is your rock side. And that's how it works. And the other thing that I get asked is how commit stays in you don't do not tie it. Can I just take one look a little while? Yeah, You could But you would have to pull really hard if he did it right. Because, for example, this If you take your finished piece and you rub it like this, it should feel debts just like a ruggedness. When you're walking on it, you know, it looks terribly moving too much because they dance. And the reason is when you're using the correct fabric, the fabric as you're punching, it kind of hawks every single loop that you punch into it. So the fabric opens up to allow the country to go in, and as you pull out, it tightens back back in to hold the loop. And that's why thes loops as a rubbing and I could go like this. They don't because they're dents really nice and tight together. If you made a piece that have gaps, and then it would be much easier than pulling troops out because the fabric would really be tightening the loops and knots. Another thing that helps it is that the more you put you punch of around an area, the tighter the more loops there are the tighter and old gets. If you think about it, you put one lupin and you kind of stretching the fabric got, which means the families pushing against all the other loops. And that's how all this is so nice and tight. There are no not in this piece. And I have pieces that cat sleeps on my son plays with, and they're totally fine. So this is how you know you did it right when it's nice and dense, and when you rub it, it doesn't really come on in. Some of the loops that are alarmed obviously are going to move a little bit, but they shouldn't move so much that you can see the fabric underneath it. We always work from the back. The reason being is that the way that the functional works when you punch in it leaves all the lives on the other side. So this is your backside, Mrs. You're working site some people before this to be the front because the image is a little bit clearer, a little bit more Chris. But I really like the texture inside, so I think I'm forever lover of the right side. 6. Frames and Hoops: So what supplies you need when you're creating your own project? Well, the simplest way to start is the right, which is my squad. You're punching. Go for us jargon, and either or a that you can make it ourselves. Or you could buy one of this stretched campuses, and you can take the campus off and issues different. You can make your own friend with stretcher bars simply by connecting or stretch of us together, and then you will take a fabric staple gun. Still, when I got average with Frank, I always ask for extra judges on the side for in every direction changes. So this is 11 by 14 fabric ISS 18 by 18 that allows you to have a proper to back around to the back of the brain and also fold it so it is nice and neat doesn't comply. Only thing to do is start with one side, staple it and moved to the opposite side of it. Okay, turn it in your direction and pull as much as you can and staple and moved to the third side that you don't need a pull too much. Just a little bit. Just enough to create some tension on the port side is the side. Where you going to be pulling the most to make sure that the fabric iss stretched really nice. Another way to stretch your Africa really, really tightly and now have to worry about throughout the life of your project are gripper strips on clipper strips are strips there are made of rubber, and they high have tiny little nails on them, so they're very, very sharp. So be careful. Work with them, and they are pointed outwards from your friend. That way, when you put your fabrikant creates nice tension and the fabric is going against the little pins and stays on. So the way to use gripper strips. This is an ongoing project. For that. I have Teoh, which with gripper strips is really easy. You can take a project on and put it back on. You could, even when you have a smaller framed, as long as you're using Robbie are you can actually move a bigger piece around a small frame. However, if you're using acrylic or a little bit soft, we are any kind of yarn. Other their yard. It's probably not do so what Gripper strips and the reason beating. When you are moving your you actually have to put it on the gripper strips. What the yard on the way, Your stretch of project. It's simply start by laying it on your friend. This one's really stretching place. You hear side really quickly. Beautiful Blue Inter's faith for your enjoyment. I just want to make sure that doesn that's also you use when you're so you want to just go and stretch it Besides, and the lines are actually a great guy for you. This actually bounce is still quite a lot, so it's not stretched. So what you dio is go and little ego poke around the frame. Like I said, just watch the line to make sure it straight that way. Project will be straight again. You stretch. I'm just gonna turn this guy so I cannot stretch the other side. Plenty of way to go. It's also nice to have some sort of a cover for your corners to make sure that you don't poke yourself even with. Public cannot tell you how they did it because I'm stubborn. I don't use the cover issued. I don't So now it's very nice and tight. Project is stretched fully and I can continue. Once you're done. This is all you have a nice way again or 7. NEW Frames and hoops: When it comes to framing, you can use the Morgan no-slip hoops. Those are the only hoops that I recommend for. And shields because they are really, really durable and the fabric stays stretched really, really well. This one is a 12 inch, needs to be like in triangle. Basically. This one's been stretched in here for a long time. I've been showing bunch in on bus who isn't. You can see numerous times and it just doesn't give. So I highly recommend if you like hoops and don't want on something that you can put your book in quickly and then take it out. And then we use this for different projects. This is the way to go. We could use these. Like I said, you can reuse them for different projects and then always take out your finished project and put it in a wooden hoop. And we'll show you how to finish this in a little bit. Ideally, you want to either use painter's tape or search the edges. What the surgery or sewing machine like I have here. So it doesn't become loose like this. If you want to use frames, you can use what's called stretcher bars. And there's four little wooden bars that you connect together and you make a frame. And then you stretch your fabric onto the frame. And this is what monks cloth work looks like, stretched on. I staple it. And for the most part it stays stretched for the whole time, for the whole project. Sometimes you might need to retype them. It also depends a fine that linen tends to give way a little bit more than Monks cloth. One is on the frames. 8. NEW Stretching fabric into a hoop: So first of all, we're just going to open this. And the reason these hoops or unique is because they have that little bridge there. And also on the inner side. So when they went together, they really hold the fabric works. So I'm going to put the fabric on top of the inner hoop and then flip the top who? Over it in whenever we press down, if it's not really going a little bit more. There we go. I'm just going to press and I'm going to loosen up. Sorry, tighten. Tighten a little bit. Not all the way. Okay. And as you see, it's it's pretty stretched but it does give in and you don't want that because it makes your hand hurt. And it makes your loops not be VBA and on the other side, when the public does not stretch. So we're going to turn it over and we're going to start going around if you want to start here. So you kinda know when you reached a full circle, you can do that. You just can eyeball it most of the time. Just make sure that the two hoops are connected together as might happen. So that means I just didn't tighten and analysis. So pitching moment I'm going to type more. But not all the way on the first time. It was triangular window. I can feel of the fabric is much tighter in it. Okay. Now we're going to continue tightening the WHO almost all the way. And the reason we're not tightening all the way is because you wouldn't be able to pull the fabric. But right now I'm having a really hard time pulling it. But as I'm testing it, it's also because it's super stretched already. So I'm just going to keep going. You feel like there are some areas where the fabric is giving a little bit more and it's probably, probably means that the two RNN, the aligned. So check on that. And the y very tight. I'm going to tighten as much as I can. And let the end. It's kinda hard. You don't want to overdo it for us when we break it up. I don't really think it's possible that these guys come after I've tightened the last time, I just kind of give it one more, you know, all on the up arrow just to make sure nothing is loose. And there you go. So it needs to be tight like a drawn like literally there's no sagging, nothing. And the best way for you to test this to make sure that it's right is the drop quarter on top to see fiddle buttons. Let me go find a quarter for you. Okay, So of course when I need my quarter, It's always when I don't need it. It's always on my office, but this time it's math, so I'm just going to drop a link on it. See how it bounced. It doesn't bounce that high. That means your fabric is just simply not taste. So this is kind of a sudden she would have, if you wanna give it another ties, a different kind of jazz as well. 9. Fabric: one of the most basic materials that you absolutely need when you're punching. What your is a fabric cold? This is a cotton fabric, has a little bit of stretched it, but not a whole lot. The most important feature of the fabric are the holes in it. The holes are there. Teoh allow punch needle to get to the other side, but also when you pull it out, the fabric kind of cleans up and it's fixed so you can actually read lunch if you feel like you need to fix in the area, a lot of people like to punch wet hoops. Hoops are a little bit tricky when it comes to cooking, because your fabric needs to be extra topped. So in order for you to have really nice even loops and for you to be punching pretty easily , the fabric needs to be stretched to the max. One who that helps with this is the Morgan who did you have in my shop that you can also find it in craft stores around you. This is a plastic hoop that's very sturdy, and it has a rich on the outer ring and also on the so this rich enters rich here and they snap together, and that's what's holding the fabric really well. So if you have other hoops there, what but are very sturdy, which I can't find any more feel free to use them. But if you don't, I highly recommend the Morgan. So the way you put your fabric and obviously you put the top ring onto the bottom and then to be typed in it a little bit and then don't isn't it all the way, then turning around and started stretching your outbreak, going around to make sure that it's stretched even if you're gonna be covering the whole area, Does it really matter that the lines stay straight just because you won't be able to? But if you aren't, you want to be sure that they are. Another reason that I would probably keep him straight is because you will see that that way you hold on all the areas around the booth smells like stretched, so I think that just just it this is very, very tight. So I'm going to close the loop to keep the fabric stretched. One test that everyone, like a man, is dropping 1/4 on the fabric and making sure balances. Well, I don't happen to have 1/4 with me right now, so I m going to drop it. I see. Make sure that when you put your hands here or you want you put your lunch eagle on the fabric, that the fabric doesn't sag and doesn't stay the way that waas, even if you left a bunch of or whatever object off of it. So this is nice and tight, and we can go ahead and start when it comes to power. But there was one more thing that I want to. A lot of people have asked me, Can I use Ida? Have right. It looks exactly the same as the months clock, but it is using. The answer is you can't because while I don't just have holes that and threats can similar to monks glove, it's a starched fabric, which means doesn't allow punch. It'll punch very easily. I tried believe you try. My wrist hurts still badly. I actually had to stop for a week to recover, so you probably will be able to punch through. But it's not gonna be easy, and it's not going well and actually might not even hold your urine into well, because the fact that it doesn't stretch that monks just doesn't really hug the leaves like so when it comes to punching with yarn, monks hits your best. Some people have also punch on burlap burlap gas work, but er lab is made of jute, which means they can't tear and rip their easily. And another feature of it that's not that great professional is that it doesn't have that comeback feature we should use when you pull out your stitches. No fixing area. It's not just gonna go back and you can't fix for up to go back and have a nice grid like months. It'll just stay. The holes will just stay hit. So if you want to use it to practice and try it out, see how you like it. But if you're creating something durable that you want to last that I probably would 10. NEW Fabric: When it comes to fabric, I always said and I probably always, well, when you're starting with punch needle monks cloth is the best fabric for you. It is the most durable, it's cotton. And as you can see, it has these stripes about every two inches. So if you look at the surface and it kinda looks like the embroidery fabric called Aida, which is actually not good for punch needle because it's starched. And so you need some sort of a fur fabric to not necessarily be stretchy when you hold it, but because you have those little holes, it'll allow for the needle to penetrate. And when when the needle comes out, it kinda hugs the loops together. So this is the one that I always recommended. It's very durable. You can even use it for rugs if you'd like. We are next choices. Linen, I have two different colors here. This is a little bit of a darker linen and this one is mx, so I believe has some a different kind of a threat to it just feels a bit different than this cell. Limit is also great. I offer both of these in my shop, but yard don't feel like just because you are a beginner or that you can't use linen. I prefer to use linen for projects like the scoping projects because I can have negative space and I like the look of linen. It's just, you know, it looks more natural. So far I haven't found any other fabric that will work for the fake punch needle. I know there are others for thin one that you can use, but these are the ones that I highly recommend for bunch needle. 11. Yarn: one of the most common questions that I get is what kind of your own do you use with my pension? Well, depend on the mention using if you're using yarn Bunch. You know, I always tell people if it fits, and it moves easily through the deal on its own without you having to pull it. If it's too thin and you feel like you're punching and the holes in the fabric are too big and the arts is not staying in, then double or triple or quadruple it. Whatever works, if you will like the color, the texture of the army, and it can go through the needle easily. You could do that when it comes to tech shirt off the arm. I highly recommend using a. We are acrylic yarn, which is a little bit more rough, I would say induction. You don't want anything shiny or slippery because it turns to not stay in the fabric very well. Even if you're using the correct fabric of the correct needle, it's just liberating. The leaps are a little bit easier to pull out, so I would kind of be hesitant to tell you to use something that's just so you want to have fun and create a super fun project, you could use recyclable materials. You can punch strips, fabric. I've seen people lunch with plastic Macs and in a way, to use so basically any fiber that works and you can get through national and it is just brought while he meeting are, you know, I think you're gonna just not really. It's not like a traffic area like a rug, or you gonna put it as finch cover or tuna covers Go for fun, you know, use where As long as Jason and French as well do it if you're gonna make an actual right. Rocky are absolutely the best free use. And also well, well, anything else will probably not hold up very well. But if you're not cleaning a rag that last 100 years, I used to like your drugs for myself so you can just don't see how it works. You never know. I'm all for it. I just wanted Teoh. But at some rigid rules, if you like, use this that while there are several their fall, you also should have fun and just not really restricted 12. NEW Yarn from craft stores: When it comes to yarn for these punch needle, as I know, I've already shown you what you can use for these two, but I wanna give you some specific brands that you can buy on your own and use with these needles. In terms of thickness, I would probably sort them this way from the thinnest to the thickest. This needle can only use medium-sized yarn. That means, for example, the impeccable yarn by my calls. And you have various different brands that are registers have the biggest selection is the medium size for yarn. So you have a lot of options for this needle. This needle can also use this yarn. It will work. What happens when you have a yarn that's a little too thin for your punch needle, it tends to leave too big of a hole and so the yarn doesn't stay in. Well, this guy, you can actually use this yarn and it will be fine. So just FYI, I want to get a thicker yarn for the blue needle. I like to use the burnout, softy, chunky. Michael's also makes a yarn called charisma that is very similar to thickness of this yarn. I just have a screen with me right now to show you. This one can take the burnout and you know, the I would call them medium chunky. But also you can use the cozy wall from loops and Threads, which is a Michaels brand. You can use a big twist yarn, which is by big quiz, I believe that's Jordan brand. And then the lion Brand will ease. They can quick that says the only needle that actually, this is the thickest one that can actually take this one. And you can get even loops and the yarn will actually stay in the fabric. Because if your yarn is too thick, it will not stay in. It will keep popping out because it can't flow through the needle the way it's supposed to. 13. Let's Punch!: without further ado, you will push your needle all the way down. That's very important, because that way you'll loops will state the same. We're not pushing all the way down, and you pushed one loop pulling down. So we go all the way down and you see this little end at stake, your so just grab it on the other side. Pull it out when you're pulling your needle out, you don't want to go up like this. You want to make sure that the tip of the needle touches the surface of he's when you go up too much and then you go back. You see this little blue a farm here, and that's you don't so engages. That happens what you dio. It's simply pull the other end up yard and adjust your needles so that the tip is touching the surface of Patrick, and then you go back in again. You can see how the yard will start moving as your punchy going. That's why you have to make sure at the yard is flowing through the needle easily. What happens most after when I teaching workshops is people say, Well, how come it's not staying in most often, it's a silly thing like you having your elbow in your yard or holding your yard and your who, your frame at the same time and as you're trying to punch, it's not saying it, and it's all coming out. That's because it's not very easy to fix. If that happens, just simply go back to the last completed stitch and go back in again, making sure that your yarn is not caught and you punch. Yeah, and here we have a wreck side and see this Lou eyes. So sure, because I was pulling on the yard and I actually checked to make sure that it was full before I started again. So I can simply pull this out until the last full and now just my yarn. Go back in and here we go all the way. Another important thing to remember is to face a needle in the direction you're punching, so the little opening in the front always needs to be in the front. Let's say you're filling out of angry out whatever shape it might be. It's up to you to decide if you wanna go in upwards or besides, left right whatever you want, it's totally fine. The one rule that you need to remember when you're changing direction of is to turn it once it's inside the fabric and then you can punch again and not a very good rule when it comes to punching cooking, as did not skip stitches. And what I mean by that is, let's say this is the area you were filling out, and then you need to go to this Instead of doing this and creating this extra long section here, I highly recommend that you finish your sex here and then startle over in a new section. How do you finish? Well, keep your needle in your fabric, turn your work around and take your scissors and snip in a way that you still have a little bit left here. So don't come out of the needle, but you have enough lank so you could see the end of treatment later. Sometimes when you're filling out areas that have corners or sharper edges, what I used to do is punch, punch, punch and simply over lunch in the quarter. Don't worry too much are covering the whole area in the quarter because sometimes when you over pundit with too many stitches, the finished piece will be worked on the other side, and that's one way to actually check if he's punched correctly. So right over here, instead of going into the corner, I can simply just go here and turn the needle. Go in the other direction, and the area will still be filled in the quarter to worry about. So how is stitches? Do you need to do? How long do your stitches need to pee? Well, depends on the Are you using? General rule for Robbie Yard is a 4 to 6 stitches, fridge, more stitches, four straight lines and lines and less stitches per inch from areas that is a great bull. However, if you're using skinny rearm like this, you will need to adjust your stick just because this then you are will not cover as much. Area is traditionally rocky are, which is much much they miss. So I always recommend filling out a smaller area and checking on the other side to see if there are any gaps when you see here, this is a very small area, so you can see that the stitches air pretty close together. I won't stitch smaller stitches than that because as you have punching and adding more lives around us, this area will get typed. If you end up having gaps, you can always adds to just later. So that's another thing that I've learned. One punching with adjustable punch evil is that the shorter you loops are, the tighter you need to go and the smaller your stitches should be. For example, setting D on this needle is very sure, and the way Teoh find out I love your loops are going to let's say you're seeing it'll in the store and you really like it. You want to get it, but you don't know how long the loops are. Maybe it's vintage in. There's not much information with it. So the simplest way to check is to look at the tip of the needle and literally cutting it. Huh? That's your look, because if you think about it, when the needle those it pushes the whole leg. But then what comes out? It pulls it out just the length of this, which means creates the loop, which means that the half off the whole piece that goes in So with Shorter's that just like this, like on the llama piece, the background is not really sure, said it. So the stitches here are much shorter than the stitches, with the longer, longer lives in a little bit more forgiving. Because they cover a little bit more area, they kind of fall into each other, so you're less likely to have gaps with and you can tell. Like I said, Where you over punched when I just gets just a little bit warp? Your So, for example, over here there's a couple stitches that, you know, stand up a little bit if you don't care like what this long piece, this is a check shirt pieces is an animal, right? So it doesn't need to be perfect if you want it to be perfect. What you simply need to dio is pullout loops, where you feel like you were punched and you might get a gap on the other side. That's OK, as long as it looks fine for this site. 14. NEW Let's punch!: So the basics of your punishment, I'm using the adjustable punch needle here. And this is a linen cloth that I'm going to now called primitive linen. So basically, if you have a certain shape that you want to create, let's say there's a circle or a triangle or square. I'm going to work with square just so I can show you how to change the direction of punching as well. So first thing you have to do is, I like to use punch needle or hold it as a pen. Mad perpendicular because it's actually going to be a little bit harder to punch by all the like a pan really comfortably. You don't need a strain and please don't strain your hand because it'll hurt in like two minutes. So you wanna make sure that you're very comfortable when you're doing this, okay, So first thing we're gonna do is we're going to do an initial punch. And from the other side we're going to pull the end of the yarn. Okay? We want to have all the loops and all the ends on the other side of the fabric. This is the back working area. The other side is our friend. So I'm going to lift the needle. And now I see it's actually not turned in the direction. So I'm going to go this way. So you always want to have this big opening, which I referred to as a front of the middle, turned in the direction of punching. So Fuego in this way, we want it to be turned this way. If you go this way, you want it to be drawn like this. Back in again for the erin. Okay. So when you lift, you wanna make sure that the tip of the needle still touching the fabric. Okay. So as you're touching, are you keeping the tip of the needle on your fabric? We're going to move it forward a little bit, just about three holes depending on the thickness of the yarn you're using. Now, as I'm entering the fabric, I want to go all the way down as much as the needle allows me to do so. The metal tip, not the plastic. And I'm going to come back up, keep the tip on the needle, sorry, on the fabric. And then I'm gonna go down again. Every time you punch, you should go down all the way. And that'll ensure that the length of the loops on the other side will be even. Let's say I'm going to make a small square right here. So as I've punched in the instruction, now I'm going to turn the needle. And I can double-check by slightly pulling it out that it's facing the front. But back-end again, just to ensure that the loop is the same length. And I'm going to pull it up again and go down. Nature, isn't this just so it's easier for you to see. Now we have a little L shape going on. And I'm going to turn the needle again and continue all the way down. And not pulling the needle up too much because let's say you do this. Either the loop can come out the previous one or you, as you are punching down, you're going to have this extra loop here, which is something that we do not want. Okay? So if this happens, simply pull on the yarn from the other side of your needle and NADPH so that the tip of the needle is again touching fabric and you can punch again and continue going. Filling out a shape. I usually make an outline and then I go in sort of a circular motion in words until I'm all the way in. So I would continue like this. You want to do a line next to the previous punch. Like this. At the same time, you wanna make sure that you are now going into each corner too much because I find that that creates a warping. It's just too many loops on the other side. And then the surface is not even. So I'm just going to continue punching. And once I'm done, I'm going to snip from the other side. So I'm going to turn this over. And first you can kind of look at your piece and see if, if it's, if it has enough loops and if there are any gaps, if there are gaps, then you can either replenish or just add some bar stitches in. So it's a little bit more even. At the end. Do you want to snip your ends and loops that are simply too long to the length of the rest of the loops so that your surface is even. 15. Troubleshooting: troubleshooting tips and here to help you with any questions you might have. I'm hoping the section will cover all of them. But if it doesn't feel free to reach out to be on social media mail website, whichever foreign. And so the first and most common, uh, issue that people are having as the yard is not roasting on better. Maybe a couple of reasons for that first ISS, as I showed you before. The yarn is not flowing through the needle easily because you're either holding onto its got on something in that way, there's just no way for it to move, so it's not staying. That may be because you're holding it or it's to thank for your baby. Perfect. The needle may be perfect, but there's a not in the Ark, which happens because a lot of the yarns with their soul under they they don't have have something you don't have enough for once came, So they connect to, and there's your sometimes the not just forms its own. When you're finding the armed or, you know, making your own came from multiple other little's cames. So that happened on that will cause the yarn Teoh. Not really Move through the needle very easily and you'll you look at it. That's what happened to be the first time I'm like It's no, it's not too thing. And he had some things preventing it from moving through a needle. So when I look closely, I noticed there's enough. So what you want to do is pull out yard if you are able to do so and cut it off. What did not Just couldn t you munching? Sometimes people use in quick combination Off and Sheetal in the Bible that there's issues with that. Most of the time, when I get people messaging me of all you know they are because they're using this needle that can be found very easily online, and they're trying to use the armed with it. But the yard is just simply too thick Teoh to move through this little easily. If you're using a thinner needle, you need a yard or you can use it has grown, so has locking. It's moving. Really. Another reason why your yard may not be staying is, let's say you have to grab your any of crap needle, and yet it's not working. Maverick Maverick is the issue. A lot of people try various fabrics, and that's great. I always encourage it. If you find, however, that works, do what work on. It's totally fine. But if it's not staying in and you have the crowd combo of yard and needle the fabric, it's probably your culprit. Another reason that the yard may not stay again is if you're fabric is not stretched. Really, really well, I said. People using hook that are not very sturdy, and so they keep little starts, the heartbreak and using public that's just not stretched really well. It's not easy to punch. The yarn will not stay in. Even Booth loops will not be. That's the biggest issue. It's not stretched frightful. Even it's months clock. It's just it's gonna be all about that. So you want to assure you that used every you are correct attentional com. No, what can also happened when you're punching even your stitches? Harper pulling on their next to each other the way they're supposed to be under no gaps. Sometimes what happens is you punch. You pushed another Luke out, so you punch from this side and then you're going around an area that's already been punched and you accidentally push out stitch so are aloof. And so it's going to be kind of hanging out over here on the other. Saddens could be much taller than the rest of us, and still we find and happen. So what you will dio at cleanup, which I will show you. It's just sniff it just like you and last question, probably off. The ones that I get is plenty that not when I need a clue. As I said before. Now we don't it really holds together. It's nice, and dance holds together. So you really don't need to glue with back or do any kind of tying or knotting or anything like that on the area will hold together, especially for wall hangings. It's not like you're walking on them, so you know if it looks like it's holding to have better, basically, it's fine if you're worried about it for Rock, you still don't need to do it because if you're raising the crack yard, it will stay in and all of the stitches will be together and dance, and you just do anything and it's still yeah, so when it comes to clean up. When you will come to your finished piece, you will have all kinds off, you know, ends coming out on the side and some extra long loops that are going to be on this side perfectly normal. What you want to do first is you want to take your about punch, needle and all the lines that kind of seem out of place, all the loops that seems out of place. You want to kind of straighten them out and want to make sure that they create the shape that you initially punched on the other side. So you always want check on this side kind of See all this goes like this. This goes like this, and on this side it's a little cricket. So what you want to do is kind of push the stitches in the way they're supposed to be. And then once that's done, it's and you're happy with all the lines that are clean and they look the way they're supposed to. Then you can worry about your ends and your long loops, and there's a simple fix for that. You just take scissors and simply cat every loop and end to the length of the rest of the loops, and it'll kind of get hidden and in the sea of all the loops that you have in your piece, and you continue to doing that for the whole piece until you're happy with it and you're done and you ready to hang your piece.