Transcripts
1. 1Intro Welcome to Pillow Making Modern Concepts: Hello and welcome to Pillow
Making with Modern Concepts. I'm Elizabeth Morgan. I've selected a fall
autumn thing pillow, as a great project to
teach you these concepts. In this course, you will learn how to make your own
piping and install ing it. We'll learn how to install a
zipper about snowballing and creating fabric pieces using textile art for different
designs that you can hand se. We'll also cover applying applique and using
basic stitches on your sewing machine
to create designs and make it look fashionable
and suit your project. Just right. By the time
you complete this course, your confidence will
definitely be heightened. You'll have a great
foundation and understanding. If you're a beginner
expanding your skills, perhaps you're someone
learning a new hobby, or you're a designer looking
for new ideas and projects. Or perhaps you're
someone looking for a project that will sell very well and be very fluid
and profitable for you. You've selected the right lures. Now I enjoy sewing. I have been sewing
for many, many years, and I'm looking
forward to sharing this project with you.
Let's get started.
2. Tools N Supplies Prepare to Create: Tools and supplies
preparing to create. Just like any good engineer, you need to have all of
your tools and supplies. It makes it even more handy
and helps you to be focused on creating a cutting mat that self healing is prefitable. Let's go over these tools. Your standard foot will be indicated by the letter J on it, and your zipper foot will be
indicated by the letter I. A seamstress tape, hopefully
one that reads yardage. And a seam ripper just in case. Some straight pins, only a few. And a good ruler. An acrylic ruler, a see
through is a better choice. Scissors, small and large. And a rotary cutter, if you're comfortable using it. Now, along with the fabrics
and matching thread, we'll use a small
amount of fabric, but you'll want to select that. That's going to help you
custom create your creation. And I use 100% cotton repurpose, upcycle and thrift
budget creations By repurposing some old decor
or one of your old pillows. You'll need a needle
and thread for the slow sewing we'll be
doing during this course. Check and have a firm surface clothing iron and perhaps
some fabric starch. I don't pre wash but just in case you need to
iron the wrinkles, A sewing machine, whether it digital or standard,
unless get sewing.
3. Slow Sew Fabric Yo Yos: Slow, so fabric yos
to make our pumpkin. This is true textile arc
and we will need 25 yoyos. Now these are really
easy to make and it will strengthen your skill in
using a needle and thread. We're going to use
a four inch circle. I'm using a mason
jar, wide metal lid, A fat quarter will generally
yield you around 20 circles. You will need 25 Skies limit
4 " of a fabric strip. You can double it up
and this way you can cut multiple circles
all at one time. There again, select
fabric prefitable to your taste and your project. We're going to thread our needle and run
it through the back. Then we're going to basically use a running basting stitch. All the way around this circle, across the top of the fabric. Go about every
quarter of an inch. And pick up your fabric, running your needle
through the top of it. As you begin pulling on it, you'll realize that
it is drawing up the fabric and turning
the raw edge under. This is exactly what
we desire to achieve. Continue running your
basting stitch all the way around your
fabric circle. These designs can make many creations and stand alone projects, they're
very beautiful. Along with fabrics of
textures and colors. Sky is the limit as you
run your basting stitch, once you get around
your fabric circle, pull the knot thread
that we began with and draw them to pull
up and gather your fabric. Just give it a few ties to
create a knot so that your yo, yo stays formed and
doesn't come undone. This is such a wonderful
project you can do. As you rest and relax,
very stress free. Remember, check social media, there are many avenues, you can see many projects. Be sure to follow me here on skill share for future
projects using Yo Yos. Clip your threads. Tie a knot in the
end of it so that you're ready to
begin a new Yo Yo. It only takes a
moment to make them. You'll have them made in
no time, true textile art. And they make about an inch and 34 to two inch round Yo Yo. We will need a total of 25. In the next lesson,
we'll go over how to assemble them and best
create our design.
4. Assemble Fabric Yo Yos: Assemble your fabric
yes is simple to do. Now that they are made and
you have them all collected, perhaps some colored thread or even some cross
stitching thread. You can also use the needling
thread you had before and attach on each side as
though it had four corners. Use this diagram in
assembling this way. You can match each
row by this photo.
5. Washout Clashing Solution: Wash out and clashing solution. You went to the fabric store, you fell in love
with these fabrics and you bought them all and
you want to use them all. The best way to do this when you've got
really busy fabrics, is to supplement
a solid with it. This is how we're going
to fix our pumpkin. We're basically going to hand a background fabric of orange to our yoyo
assembled design. We're going to trim it close after we've hands on
it all the way around. And this is going to
resolve this problem. Leave your Yao showing.
6. How Much Fabric EMM: How much fabric. This is my method called
easy measure math. And I'll show you, I'm repurposing one of
my old pillow decor, and as you can see here, it's 16 " in length. I will also measure the width, which is what your common
fabric cuts are gone by. The width is 12 ", which is really truly accurate. I could use two fat
quarters here again, I'm using a common cut of fabric which is around
three eighths of a yard, and therefore it
fits just perfect. As this example, you
just measure and allow yourself 1 " seam allowance on each
side for the width. That way you can let
across your form, check it for measurement. And here's a yo yo Christmas tree I pre made as an example. And it fits just perfect. Make it stress free, use, easy, measure, math.
7. Snowball Clashing to Fashion: Snowballing can offer a
solution to clashing fabrics. I've ironed a crease on this
four by four inch square, and I'm going to place one in the right upper corner and
the lower left corner, we'll be sewing on this crease. I basically ironed it corner to corner with my fabric iron, so the crease is very visible. We want to pin those into place to prevent
them from shifting. And we're going to repeat
it on the backing fabric. Be sure to watch direction of any stripes or shapes that you may have
flowing in your fabric. Decide which way you
want them to flow. I have mine running up
and down vertically. Now, pin these in each corner. Let's take it to
the sub machine. Place your presser foot
down on the corner there. And make sure that your needle is in the center position
lined up with the crease, and sew directly
down the crease. Now here's a bonus, stay tuned bonus idea following these steps
in the next project. One half inch from the scene. By placing your
presser foot against the threads already sewn there and sew from
corner to corner. Once again, every piece
of fabric has purpose. This is a way of using every
single piece of fabric. You want these to be a half
inch apart because we need a quarter inch seam
allowance on each side. We're going to repeat
this to all four corners, so let's take it back
to the cutting mat. And using our ruler, allowing that quarter of
an inch seam allowance, we're going to cut off
those pieces of fabric. And voila, we have
a half inch square. Save this for the bonus project. Once you have cut that
extra square off of each one of your
backing and front iron, open the snowball and vola, we have successfully
blended plaids and stripes. And we took clashing to fashion. This is another way of
breaking those active, really loud, vibrant fabrics up and making them
blend very well.
8. Bonus Project Every Piece Purpose: Bonus project.
Follow these steps whenever you're working
with snowballing. And this way you
give every piece of fabric purpose allow
a half inch from your previous seam and sew it all the way from corner to corner as you
did the previous. Repeat this every
time you snowball, Make it a habit of sewing
up this extra fabric. Whenever you do this, you are going to end
up with an idea, or a project, or usage
for each one of these. Bring it back to your
cutting mat and allow that quarter inch seam
allowance and cut that off. It is already sewn
now and voila, you are going to have this
beautiful half quarter square. We're going to collect
all of these from the four snowbaling
that we did before. When you bring it to
the ironing board, set the seam, and then press it open towards the dark side. This way if you're working
with a lighter fabric, it won't reveal the
dark fabric underneath. And just make it a habit, it will come second
nature to you over time. You can assemble to quarter
squares, many different ways, Explore it and play with them, and make the magic happen. I assembled mine
into a pinwheel. If you place them
just as I have these, you'll have this
beautiful pinwheel. Now, I'm going to
give you some tips on how to iron this open, put them together and sew them. When you bring them back
to your ironing board, you're going to set your scene. Now the upper one, I want you to press it
open towards the right. When you do that, this will become second hand
nature to you. The lower one that you sewed. Open it up and press
it towards the left. Whenever you do this habit, you will find that anytime
you are doing a project, this will become second nature. And you'll see how these
scams just nestle together. You'll get no arguments
when you are sewing them because they will
iron flat as a fletter, feed right under
your feed dogs of your sewing machine and
make it less cumbersome. And no arguments
with piling fabric. And voila, we have this
beautiful pinwheel. Another way to solve
clashing solution. Whenever you have these
really busy fabrics, explore all the different ways that you can make these
two quarter squares. And we have an eight inch finished block. What
a great project.
9. Create Applique: Creating an Applique can be simple with basic
stitches fabric Applique, you can create your own
designs for our pumpkin. We will need a stem. We've already assembled our yellows and put
it back into it. I've cut a 34 inch fabric piece, and I am not using any
fusible webbing whatsoever. I'm going to do a
simple tracing. When you place the
yoyos assembled as I've showed you a demographic, you can literally take a marker and trace it out
to the back of your fabric. You may have to just wing
it on creating the stem. Allow 1 " of fabric
below because that will be underneath the pumpkin
when we go to assemble it. Now we're simply going
to cut this owl, allowing that 1 "
below our stem. Once we have this piece made, we'll be able to place it on our fabric
and we want to make any adjustments and really
make sure that it's centered or positioned
where we are desiring. It's important to
check that position and stage what you are doing so you can see visually
how it's going to turn owl. Now we are ready to take this to the sew machine and
stitch it down. And using basic stitches to
give it a decorative finish.
10. Decorative Stitches Fabric Applique: Decorative stitches. This is fabric Applique, and I'm going to show you by a sample piece of how you can make pint size to large
size scale beautiful applique and decorate
and really spruce up anything and add texture and design to your beautiful
fabric textile. I've taken and cut a small stem, just as I stated before. When you sow down
your pumpkin stem, you're going to do it first and you're just going to use
your straight stitch. Place your presser foot to
the far left if you need to. In positioning your needle. When you put your
presser foot on, just reposition your needle. You'll learn a lot about
that in this course. I am slowly going about and sewing down with a straight
stitch, my fabric applic. I had a straight pin in
there to begin with, just to hold it in place until I got the first
stitches laid down. Once my presser foot
got close to my needle, I removed it and I was able to maintain fabric onto my piece. I did not use any
fusible webbing, but that is an option if
you feel more comfortable. Now, we are going to switch
over to the zigzag stitch. We are still using our standard
zip foot on our machine, our standard presser foot. And we're going to go over top of the straight stitches
with our zigzag. You can use a lesser length in your zigzag to
make it smaller, or you can use the larger. There are several
different sizes of zigzag on your standard
sewing machine. These are the basic stitches that will be with
any sew machine, a straight stitch
and a zigzag stitch. And the designs that you
can create are endless. I'm going around over top of the previous straight stitch
and I'm at the end now. We need to add some design and texture to truly turn
this into a pumpkin stem. I'm switching back to my
basic straight stitch. You have to use
your imagination. And if you need to print you out an image or draw it
up on your device, you can follow it
and get an idea of where placement can be to
create different designs, whether you're doing a
pumpkin stem or an apple. Here, we've now created
the end of the stem. Well, a pumpkin stem has
creases and lines in it, the vine that it's grown from. So we're going to once again use our basic straight stitch and we're going to
create these lines. Now my video is sped up and that just makes
it more handy and easier for you to see as I
go about creating my design. This exercise teaches you great control and makes you very comfortable
using your machine. As we go about creating the
lines in this pumpkin stem, you can see that you
can easily stop it, start it, go as slow or
as fast as you like. A great deal of the time
fabric avoca is done with a 2.5 millimeter stitching. Now we're going to put
our little pumpkins. I've cut two circles and I've laid them halfway of
one another using a pen to just position
them and make sure they're exactly where
I desire them to be. Before I ever put
the first stitch in, Since I've gotten this placed, it doesn't look
quite right so I can take it and reposition
it when I begin. You want to begin
at the very center. That way you go ahead
and harness down your design once again with
a basic straight stitch. I'm just following
the circle curve of this little pumpkin, it will turn into a pumpkin. Once these circles
are sewn correctly, I'm going to follow
all the way around my pumpkin circles
on the outer edges. It's best to fasten
down the center and the outer edges and then work in towards your center area. Whenever you're doing
fabric application, especially if you're not
using fusible webbing. I'm not using any stabilizer
or fusible webbing. This is fabric to fabric, but if your stitches
are consistent, smooth and close to one another, you can pull this off. It's not always the case, but we always have
stabilizers as our back up. Now I have gone all
the way around design. Now it's time to
put our creases and lines and make our
dimensions on our pumpkin. I've gone down
through the center, and those are oval shape, making the two in the center. As I come around,
I'm going to put another round in between
the outer and inner. Once I meet it in the center, I'm going to pitch
it up a bit and bring it back out so that it has that neat little shape
at the bottom of the pumpkin, the adorable. And I'm going to give you
a close up so that you can see trim back any of your tails of thread that are left over and smooth it out, iron it, press it and
she's ready for use.
11. Make Piping Custom Trimmings: Making piping, custom trimmings, this is really easy
to accomplish. We're going to cut our
strips of fabric 2 " wide and we're going to be using some quarter inch cotton
clothes line rope. Now we're going to use
my easy measure math, so we measure our project
area all the way around. Then we'll cut our
two inch strips. And using the quarter inch rope, we're going to create piping. Sew your pieces together to make the extension of however much fabric you're
going to need. By the easy measure math, press it in half the whole
length of your two inch strip. Now we're going to take out
our quarter inch close line. Save the wrapping that makes it easy to wrangle this
and keep it harnessed because we're only going to need 60 " for my particular project. If your pillow is a
different shape and size, measure the outer
area to make it easy, measure math and then allow yourself a minimum
of 10 " extra. But I always leave about 6 "
extra whenever I measure it. Now I'm going to singe the
ends of the cutted rope because this is a nylon rope and I don't need it to ravel. Be careful when you
do this because nylon is a plastic and
it melts and it's hot. Now we're going to
take the rope over to the iron and we're just going
to get some heat to it. So we'll straighten it out because we don't need
these coiling and bending to keep us from moving right along
with our project. It just straightens
it out a bit. We're going to
extend it 1 " beyond the beginning of our fabric
and clip it into place. Then we're going to
place it inside, right into the fold of our
two inch strip of fabric. And it should nestle in
there just right now. Check to make sure
that your ends are evenly folded
together and then pin it or place some of your clips to hold it while you get it over
to the sew machine. That looks really nice and smooth and you can do
this the full length. Once you get it to
your sew machine, it's important to switch
over to your zipper foot, which is indicated
with the letter. If you're wondering when the zipper foot look
for the letter I in a low shank sew
machine, sewing feet. Place it onto your sew machine. And when you place
this zipper foot on, you want to place it on
the left side of the foot. There are two posts there. Attach it to the far left side of your zipper presser foot. This will make placing our piping into our
fabric a breeze. We need to adjust our
needle position to the far left as well
on your machine. The far left, 0.0 as
far as the width. And you can see here my needle is to the far left position. I'm going to place my
presser foot 1 " down from the beginning of our fabric that extends the 1 " rope
as well as the fabric. Park your presser foot
against that piping. This is really easy. Your stitching length
can be a basting stitch. Put it all the way up
to five millimeter. As long as you have your presser foot parked
against the piping, the fabric is even. Your needle position is
in the far left position. And you have a
basin stitch which floats through your sewing
machine really fast. We need a basin
stitch just to hold our rope or cord into place. You're going to go
the entire length. At the bottom, leave 1 " unsown. We do not want to sew this latter inch and do
not use a back stitch. Just leave the last 1 " unsown. Voila. We have made our
piping successfully. Once we are ready, we can take that, attach it to our project, and
we are ready to go. It looks real nice.
Check your work and make sure
everything is stitched.
12. Attaching Piping Easing in Trims: Attaching piping. This is easing trims. We're going to leave
the first 6 ", that's 3 " from the end and
3 " from the beginning. Unsewn. We're going to put
our standard presser foot on, and we're going to center
our needle position. At this point, we are going
to create a basting stitch. Let's lengthen our stitch
up to our basing stitch, which is commonly
5.0 millimeter. You will also find this on your dial of a standard
sewing machine. We're going to place our presser
foot against that piping and we're going to slide
it all the way up so that we leave that first 3 " unswn. We're going to park at
presser foot right up against the piping as we did before
when we made the piping. Now mitering the corners. This is really simple. About a half an inch or so from the end of your fabric.
You're going to stop. You're going to bend your corner back and park it into place and it makes like
a little pleated corner. I will demonstrate this
so you can see it easier, but so you can understand
what we're going for as we are laying
that piping down. And we will be able
to flow and keep our presser foot completely on the width of whatever
fabrics left over. And park it against the
piping in slow motion. Here we go. We're going
to down, beg pardon. We're going to do,
we're going to take our thumb and fold
over the corner. When we plead it back, we're going to raise
our presser foot. We're going to plead it
backwards. Just give it a fold. When we do, we're going to push the fold back to the left. We're going to put those
few stitches in there. We're going to stop,
raise our presser foot, turn our fabric and then
fold our corner back behind. We're going to place
our presser foot back down and continue sewing. There's a spring on
that presser foot, so I had to raise it
up to let my piping up underneath it so it doesn't get caught
and throw me off. We're going to continue
sewing once again. When we get to the bottom
end of the corner, we're going to take
our thumb and fold it back, leaving that length. We're just going to
pleat that corner and then fold it
back to the left. Put our few stitches till
we get it down to the end. There we're going to stop. Raise our presser
foot. Turn our fabric and press our piping
back behind the foot. Get everything straight and
smooth and in position. And then we can place
our foot back down. Park it against the piping, and continue to sew. Now we need to bring this down
to 3 " before the ending. We need to stop. Take your
ruler and check to see, is it 3 " from the end? Give it a few stitches back, stitch it to lock the stitch
down in place and cut it. And then we're going
to use our ruler here. Yes, we have 3 " from the end. Now we're going to
check our beginning, which we already
knew should be 3 " from the beginning.
I have it pinned. Yes, 3 " from the beginning. That's our 6 " total unsown. Now we need to tie these ends together and give
it a smooth finish. We're just verifying.
6 " unsownow. Let's take our pin out. And I can already tell
you that we need to lay these pieces together and
take a magic marker, a pen, something you can visually
see and mark the beginning of your store on the tail
that we left there. We need to open this up and clip those stitches so that we
can open up our fabric. Because we need to connect
these two pieces together. So just cut back
to your marking. Cut off the extra
rope that's there. We're not going to
need it because the extended 1 " coming
out of our beginning, we're going to lay
inside of that canal. So we're just checking it
and we're going to pull up our fabric to meet the ends. Also on our beginning we
have it stitched down, so we need to clip a few stitches away from
that to allow us at least 1 " exposure so we can
get this under the machine. Pull the rope down
out of your way. Lay your two fabrics together
at the mark that you made. At the mark that you made, pin it into place. When we place this
under our presser foot, we're going to the rope out of our way there for a moment
and grab a hold of it, get everything
wrangled together. When we put this under
our presser foot, we're going to be
using the whole width of our presser foot
because our foot is even and we also have
a center needle position, you're stitching right across it to join the two pieces together. Okay, let's check it. Give it a look, that's
looking pretty good. Yeah, that's what we want. Now, let's cut off
that excess fabric. We don't need it,
and they'll take care of the mark marks,
not going to be seen. We only used a place to
begin to place our foot. We need to take a little
more rope off here. It's just a tad bit too
long, just a sitch. And we're going to
tuck it in right into that area where
the other rope was. Slide. Just make sure we smooth it out.
Fold it back over. Get everything back
into position. Go above where you
ended and start your stitch and do a back
stitch and then sew it down. When you sew it
all the way down, you're also going to backstitch
to lock it into place. And voila, we have successfully
sewed down our pipe in. That looks fantastic.
13. Attaching Design Custom Creations: Attaching the design,
custom creations. Place your yo yo pumpkin
on to the front. Mark it so that when you go back and you can place
it and adjust it. Be sure to pin it in at least four places so
that there's no shifting. When you get it to the machine, you're going to use your
standard presser foot. The idea here is to
center your needle, you're going to sew just above the center of each
one of your fabric, yo basically tracing out
the shape of your design. You can use a matching thread, something that corresponds, or you can just use
standard white, such as I have as
I go about sewing it on these yo yos because
they are a thicker fabric. You want to be sure
that your design is staying into place and
you're not pushing or shifting your fabric out of the way just above the center of each
one of these yo yos, Just go around and
take your time. As you go through
there, you're standing to the inner side of the yo yos. The idea is we want the
extra fabric hanging over. And that is for looks, appearance makes it
really nice and smooth. As you stop, you can raise your presser
foot if you need to, but do not let your yoyos start turning and
shifting and twisting. You want to keep them flat
against your pillow case top. Putting on the design. You will do this
as your final step before you begin making
the actual pillow case, attaching any items that you are adorning
your fabrics with. It's important to do it
in the steps laid out in this course that as you begin
making your own designs, you won't get confused and things won't be attached
that are going to be in the way backstitch when you end it and cut
your stitching. That looks great. And as you can see we
still have movement on the outer part of the yao and is the perfect
shape of the pumpkin.
14. Installing Zipper Forward Face: Installing the zipper,
making it cleanable. This is the best way to make
our projects very cleanable, and durable, and
size can matter. The measurement of
this zipper is 12 ", which is from the metal
casing to the zipper head. Whichever size your project is, make sure to measure it. And that will help you determine what size zipper you
need for this project. Lay your zipper down and fold under the raw
edge of the fabric. When I place this on the zipper, you're going to notice
that the raw edge of the piping is still exposed.
That's simply okay. I want to demonstrate
to you how you can install a zipper and how you will be able to finish off that raw edge in the finishing. Later on in the lesson, go ahead and place
a couple of pins just to house your
zipper into place. As you can see here,
the piping fabric is buttoned up against the zipper itself
with a couple of pins and it's the
length of the pillow. Let's take it to the
machine and select your zipper foot indicated
by the letter I. It has a unique
shape to it and as you can see here for
low shank machines, when you install it
on your machine, you want to place
that zipper foot in to the right side
post of the zipper foot. You leave your needle position
in the center position, which is generally 3.5 the right side of the zipper foot and
center needle position. You'll sew this down, keeping your zipper presser foot
against the zipper itself. Now change our length of our
stitch to 3.0 millimeters. You will stitch two rows, this is the first one. Then the second row,
you'll tighten up your stitch and change
your needle position to 0.0 Now let's so the
backing to our zipper. And this is a front facing
zipper installation. I'm going to fold over a
half inch of the fabric. And I am rolling it with what we call a
wooden roll press. This is a nice
little tool to have and it keeps you from
going to the iron. I'm going to pin it down
with a couple of pins, making sure everything
is lined up. I'm going to change my zipper
foot to the left side post. I'm going to leave my needle
in the 3.5 center position. And down my first stitches, just adjust that
needle position back to 0.0 When you do your
second row of stitching, this is our first
row of stitching. We just need it in
the center needle, position 3.5 that
will harness it down. And that's our first
row of stitches. That looks really nice. Next we're going to put a
second row of stitching. We're simply going to adjust
our stitching position. Your needle width to 0.0
or 2.0 for the second row, depending on your machine, and leave your stitching length
back to 2.5 millimeters. This is a lock in stitch
is tighter stitching now. So down your second row of
stitching for your zipper. We'll be doing some finishing
on this zipper later on. For the time being, we've
got our zipper into place, we're testing it
and it works great.
15. 14 Sew Pillowcase Closing Seams: So in the pillow case,
closing our seams. We're simply going to
lay it down and place the backing over the front
right sides facing together. We need to make sure everything
is lined up right here at the zipper where we have folded under the
seams for the zipper, we need to straighten it out
and make sure that we line up each piece even
with each other. And place some
pens down the edge and on the corners to make
sure it does not shift. We're going to sew all the
way around all three sides, and this is just our
first row of stitching. This is not our finish. This is our closing scams
stitch. We'll have more to do. Let's change to the
regular presser foot, letter J on it, and center our needle position, which is 3.5 millimeters
on your dial, you'll see the same and
leave your stitch in length at 2.5 milliliters. When you first get to the
machine and you place it there, get this basic stitch
down, we're not concerned. We already know that the
piping sits further in. That will go under
the next lesson, which is finishing
and stitching. Our zipper binding together. Just get around and make sure
that nothing is shifting, that both of the top and the bottom of the
pillowcase are even and stay sewn together and they are not shifting or
turning or sliding on. You stop, go slow and make adjustments so that they are even together and sewn together. Even though you're
seeing at a distance, you'll be able to see
that each one is even. That is the idea
and the goal here, our mission is to just
close up our pillow case. As you can see, there's our
first row of stitching. Now let's unzip it. And you might have to work to
get in there to the zipper, but it's all okay. Turn it out and inspect
your stitching. And you will see that right here is inspect the
first stitching. And seems we have not caught
our piping yet next lesson.
16. Finishing Seams Zipper to Piping: Finishing seams and attaching
our zipper to the piping. We're going to take our pillow back to the sewing machine and the far left needle
position we will use to complete our last seams. Our far left needle position
is in place and we have our presser foot up against
the piping that's underneath. We're going to walk
it slowly here at the beginning where
the zipper is. As we begin, you can
see there the piping. You may want to make sure that your pillowcase is unzipped,
that's really important, and that the needle is
in that proper position and the foot is pressed up against the piping that
you can feel underneath. Reach your hand inside the
pillow and make sure you fold that piping down inward so
that it doesn't get caught. When you're putting the
spinal seam onto your pillow, We put the initial stitching on here to close
up our pillowcase. This final stitching is
so that we make sure the stitching is going against the piping that's
already attached. And we're closing it up
and finishing it off. We're also making
sure that we are buckling down our zipper that
has the extended pieces. As you can see here,
our secondary scene is our most important. Our first scene put
our pillow together. Our second scene finishes it. Now let's inspect our scenes. When you pull them
out, you'll see the stitching is up
against the piping, and the piping is standing
up for you properly. We've got this first corner
that looks really good. Now let's check our other
corner that looks really nice. Now our piping standing
up good and firm, stitching up against it, closed up very well. Now let's check our
seam at our zipper. Our piping is perfect in
place, just like it should be. This looks really nice and we can totally
turn it out now. And we're going to
check the other side where we began with our zipper. Let's check our zipper.
Slides open really good. Now we need to finish. Go ahead and zip
your pillowcase. And we're going to stitch down the upper side of the zipper, the one that is
next to the piping. This is why we did not worry
about the raw edge before. We're going to flip
up the zipper, we're going to place our
presser foot down on it and on the far right
needle position is where we need it and we need that at
7.0 we are placing our needle right
on the zero mark. And we've got our far
right needle position, which is 7.0 And our presser foot is resting
against the zipper. Let's stitch this down
and lock it down. That looks really good, indicated with the white thread. Now your zipper is
against that piping like it should be
professional grade, professionally made,
custom pillow, you can make yourself the
zipper is working properly. This just looks really good. Now, right here at the end
where the zipper head is, we need to just
take, press that in. It has a little bump
there, little lump. That's normal, but we just need to press it inside
of the pillow, tuck it in, that looks perfect. You have now completed your professional made
custom made creation. Your pumpkin pillow. Whip away the threads so that they're not in the way or
catching in the zipper, and now you're complete.
17. Stuff N Fluff Presentation Close: It is now time to fluff
and stuff the pillow. Making modern concepts where the autumn theme is complete, presentation finish
can be everything. Your thrifty pillow, polypill,
repurposing a pillow. Either way, fill up your pillow and stuff
it and zip it closed. In this course, we
covered many things. We solved problems
such as clashing fabrics and those that are really busy, how
to break them up. We learned about fabric art and how we can make our
own designs with pieces of fabric and create any kind of
design that we desire, colors and matching up
to our heart's content. And this is a great way
for us to express ourself, decorate our home,
or give a nice gift. Along the way, we learned
how to make our own piping. How to do a four face
zipper and attach it to the piping we made for a
custom made professional look. The finish is excellent, you did a great
job along the way. You resolved many problems. You created fabric applique using basic stitches
on your sew machine. And I know that your confidence is heightened and you have no problem and feel
very comfortable going at any project
you desire on your own. Follow me on all the
social media outlets, you can find them in
my skillshare profile. And be sure to follow me here on skill share for more courses. Congratulations student,
You have a beautiful bill.
Elizabeth Morgan, Dandly Yours
