Photography 101 - Basics to Shutter, Aperture, and ISO

1. Intro: Hey, how's it going? And welcome to this class. My name is though with and I have been a photographer for many years. I've been in the industry. I shoot weddings, portraits professionally. I do a lot of real estate and corporate commercial work. So in this class we're going to be going over the basic theory of photography. I know it sucks. I know, I really know it does, but you need to understand the theory of photography and how to actually apply it to your photos in order to go from having your very first camera to actually shooting wonderful images. And we're going to go over the application of it. We're gonna, we're gonna go over things that are important that you need to know as an shutter aperture and ISO, these are the big three, and the first three that you need to know when you're going into photography and you're learning all these new things. So we're going to keep it basic, we're going to keep it simple. And we're going to go straight into it. Stay tuned. 2. Shutter: All right, So let's begin. This is a chart that I have this as a photography one-to-one chart. This is the intro. And I made this for you guys. We're not going to be going over a lot of these concepts in this, in this lesson, right? We're not going to go over any of these guys are here. We're just going to be focusing on the big three, the shutter, aperture and the ISO when it comes to the basics of photography. So if you want to read this, you can go ahead, but it's not important. This really wasn't made for what we've got going here. So let's move on and let's start with shutter. When it comes to shutter, what a shutter is, is a device that allows light to pass, exposing the film or sensor to capture an image. So this is usually when, uh, when it would refer to film cameras, you would open up the shutter and it would allow the actual light to burn an image onto the piece of film. So since we're working with digital cameras nowadays, we'd still have a shutter and I'll pull up a camera here. So this mirror, as you can see, is a shutter. So every time I click it, it's going to open up. And you can leave the shutter open to expose the digital sensor. And you can close it right there. So that shutter actually opens up, reveals the light to that sensor, and it snaps a photo. Now there is a value to a shutter. It's going to look like one over 51 over 500. That's usually what we call it is going to be what was your shredder? One over 125 or 125th of a second? That's usually what we say. So the faster the shutter, the faster it can capture an image, and the slower that object in the image will look. So let's say some dude is running down the street and you want to capture him really quickly. You're not going to use a 1 over 40 shutter because he's going to be blurry in the image. You're going to use a shorter that's like one over 125, 1 over 200. That's the type of shadow use because there's faster motion in the image. You want to capture it at a quicker, you want that charter to be open for the least amount of time as possible. So for example, here, if you look faster shutter speed, the faster the shutter speed, the more still the movement in the image will appear. So if you're looking here, there's not much movement going on here. This was probably shot I like maybe a one over 200 that was site. Let's change the color here. So that was probably shot over one over 200th of a second. And this second image was probably open for a couple of seconds. So the numbers that we would use, it'd be like one over 11 over two. It's probably not going to be a number like that. It would most likely be a number that looks like 1 over would be like 0. And you do one of those graphs and 6. So that basically means that it'll be open for like six seconds. And it would capture everything in that image within that six seconds spent. So that's why you get those light streaks coming in through the image. So the slower the shutter speed, the less still the movement in an image will appear. Now, the faster the shutter speed, the less light that will go in the camera, right? So the faster it is, the less time you're exposing it to the world. So it'll be a darker image. Okay? Which makes sense. Now, the slower the shutter speed, the longer it is open and exposed to the world. So the brighter the image will be. That makes sense. I hope it does, it does make sense to me. Let's say you want to shoot this horse, but it's a little darker in the day. What are you gonna do? Well, you have your other settings, so now you have your aperture and you have your ISO that you would need to adjust. So if you have, for example, you're shooting some dude on a horse and he's, he's moving really quickly. So you bump your, your shutter speed up to like one of one over 500. You want to capture him. You want it to be really still, but the image is now dark, so you have to compensate your other settings to keep that shutter speed at the speed that it's at. So let's move on to the other settings and look at how they affect the image as well. 3. Aperture: Alright, so the next setting is going to be the aperture. The aperture is the opening of the lens which allows light to pass through. Every single lens is going to have a different aperture. Some lenses may have like a 1.21.8. Other lenders may have a 2.8. So this number is how low your aperture number can go and how much light it'll let into the image. So the lower the number, the more light you allow in, and the higher the number, the less light you allow in. So let's, let's kind of explain this one just a little bit differently. The higher the number. So f over 22, the smaller the whole of your aperture will be, which means the less light will go into that, that little hole right there. And the larger the number, the less the distance between the blades and the edge of the lens, the more light that gets allowed into there. So the, ultimately the brighter the image. So when you have a lower aperture, you will have a lower depth of field, which means the focus will be so thin that you won't really see past a certain point. So let's see, I have an an aperture of 1.8 and I'm focused on my eye, my nose here. There's not going to be in focus. If I want the entire face to be in focus, I would want to go more towards an aperture of f 4, but that will make the image darker. So sometimes I can't afford to do that. So I need to keep the aperture lower. And I wanted to focus on just one eye. So you gotta make sure the less light you're letting in, the more that will be in focus and the more light you're letting into the image, the brighter will be, the less that will be in-focus. And that's just how the f-stop kind of works. We call it the we call it as affected by the aperture F-stop. So it'll be f 1.8, F2, F2. And if you look at the bottom here, it says aperture is referred to as F.me in F1 0.8 for a larger aperture, which means it's open more and enough. 10 for a smaller aperture, which means it's letting less light in and the whole is a lot smaller. Now, let's say you're shooting at a shutter speed of 500. And you want to brighten up the image because it's too dark. Depending on the lens you have, you may be able to go to F1 0.8. So you would lower your aperture to F1 0.8, allow more light into the image. You'll have a shallower depth of field, but your image will be brighter than that or look clean. All right, let's move on to the ISO. There's a lot to go with ISO. You can comfortably change your shutter speed and your aperture settings when it comes to photography. And you can get away with a lot with just those two settings. But if those aren't enough, you're gonna have to start adjusting your ISO, ISO. So let's move into that. 4. ISO: So we're moving on to the ISO. The ISO, ISO, however you want to say it is the sensitivity of the camera's sensor. So a higher ISO will digitally brighten the image. It's not going to actually make it brighter in the camera. It does it digitally. Which means you're kind of just pushing the level is higher. When you have a higher ISO, the image will be a lot Grenier. And that is done because obviously you're pushing the camera's sensor limits. So here, always remember that this is a tip. This is an important tip. Put a star here. The higher the ISO, the grain or the image will be. So try to keep the ISO as low as you can. And every camera has a native ISO, ISO that it performs the best in. For cinema cameras. Usually it's in that 400 to 600 range. For the ADD that I have here, it's about 800 and has dual native ISO, which means it can go to 3200 ISO. But these are all like different concepts and different cameras that really applies to them. So any cameras have a higher ISO range. So they can, they can boost the ISO without digitally mooning the image. Lot easier than Nikon and Canon cameras can. So higher ISO digitally brightens the image. So the brighter that the image is, the grain year it will be so it'll be destroyed. And you want to keep that as low as possible. For my ADD, I've comfortably pushed it up to 3200 ISO. Anything beyond that at lower, lower lights kind of gets little digitally grain in and you can kinda see it being affected. So I'll show you some examples of high ISO because I feel like this is kind of important. 5. Examples of Aperture and ISO: Awesome. So right here we have an example of your aperture being adjusted. So if you look, you can see at F4, the background is barely in focus and you're really, really focused on this sunflower here. Now at F22, the holes a lot smaller. You're letting less light in so the image will be darker. So ultimately, they had to adjust the shutter speed or the ISO to bring the image back to the same exposure. But the result is the background is a lot more in-focus. This isn't done with editing. This is all done in camera and iPhone omega. Blurry background is a look that we want that is done with your aperture. And let's move on to looking at how the ISO is affected. So thanks to ideas to go to Account. This is an image of lower ISO. So you can see there's less grain and it's a lot cleaner. And we've got higher ISO right here. So you can see it's greener. The gray next color sometimes. And it just distorts the image and it doesn't look very good. So you get a lot of noise in the image. You get a lot of, um, and I know I've been saying grain, but noise is kinda the word that you're looking for if you're trying to search it up yourself. And noise is bad, green is good, sorry. So when it comes to film, people want grain. But when it comes to photography, you want to avoid noise. 6. Real Time Camera View: Alright, so let's go ahead and see in camera how all these settings affect an image. I have a Coke can write here that I'm looking at and kinda got this guy and focus. All right, That guy is now in focus. It's the current settings that I have, as you can see at the top right, the settings that I have right here. The shutter is at 125th of a second. So if I snap this image and I have like a little bit of movement, you see how it's blurry. Alright, so you can see here that my, my shutter speed is, I'm moving it down to 1 15th of a second. Now the image is getting brighter, which is, which is good, right? Not necessarily. So the image is getting brighter. But now any, any movement I have while I'm taking this image is going to affect it. So the image will ultimately come out blurrier with that movement. So now if I increase my shutter speed, it's going to get a lot darker. But now the movements I make for my hand jitters are going to be a lot less effected. So we want to brighten this image of my aperture is here considered F1 over 8, so my shutter is 1 over 50, my aperture is F1, 0.8. If I make the number larger to F5, for example, the image gets darker. I bring it back to f 1.8, the image gets brighter. So the lower the number, the brighter it is. Now here's a problem. F1 point its lowest I can go on this lens. So now I have to have to compensate, right? I have to make it brighter with the shutter speed. But now my movements affected because I can't make as much jittery movements without getting you blurry image. So I want to go back here. I want to keep the shutter speed at 160. And a general rule of thumb, this is a nice little tip. If your shutter speed is larger than the highest length of your lens can go, you'll have a sharper image. So this is a 50 millimeter lens. So my shutter speed is 60. I will have a sharper image. If my lens is 200 millimeters, my shutter speed should be 200 to have the sharpest image that I can. So one over 60 is fine. F1 0.8, that's the most I can open up. Now I have to adjust my ISO, so my ISO controls are here. So let's boost it right. So now we've got 160, still not bright enough to 100 still not bright enough. 250, 320, 400, regain their 500, 640. Maybe one more, 1250. So we've settled that 1250 for a nice exposure. Now going to take that image, it's going to be clean. It's going to look good. So that's that, right, this is how it's affected. Now if i, I can show you in real time, if my shutters higher, semi aperture is also higher, but I solely rely on my ISO. So my ISO is now at 16 thousand. This image is going to be a lot grain year, especially in the shadows. In the darker parts of the image is going to have a lot of grain and noise. So if you look here, you can see all that noise coming up in the image. And that's what you want to avoid. So you want to keep the ISO as low as possible. Write your aperture depending on the look that you want. You can adjust your aperture setting. So let's say I want my aperture to show more in focus. So I go to f 45. I can, I can boost my ISA is totally fine, right? It's going to be higher, it's going to be greener, but that's kinda look that I'm going for. Or let's say I have a tripod and I go shutter speed one over 40. Now I can do that too, and I can bring my SO down a little bit. So it's really just adjusting the settings that you have up and down to get the best image that you have. 7. Conclusion: And that there is the basics of photography. We went over the shutter speed, the aperture and the ISO, the theory behind them, how it affects your image and what to adjust in a certain situation. So these I hope it was helpful. I hope you guys learned a couple of things. And yeah, enjoy your life, enjoy your new photography game. This was super fun to create. Hopefully I can make more on the composition and all the other checkboxes that like, you know, I wasn't able to. So we're looking at we're looking at the bokeh focus light, shadows controlling light using prime lenses versus zoom lenses. And I'll make a, make a class over that in the guys for watching. I'll see you next one.