PC Building: Learn to Build a Custom PC

1. Introduction: Hi, welcome to the PC Building class. My name is Felix Kruip and I'm a digital creator and YouTuber. When you create any digital products like design, photos, 3D art, or videos, you rely on a good computer. There are lot of different options out there, but when you require a lot of power, the cheapest and best solution in my opinion is to build a custom PC. Building a custom PC is often seen as a rather difficult and daunting task. Although I can tell you right now that it is not rocket science and a lot easier than you might think. It ain't rocket science for Christ's sake. For this class, I built a small form factor PC or SFFPC, as they like to call it, which is a fairly small and space efficient PC with still a lot of power. Chances are you came from the video on my YouTube channel and felt inspired to start building your own PC. Well, good for you, or maybe you've been wanting to build your dream PC for a while, whatever the case in this class, we will go over all the basics that you need to know to start building your own PC. We will start with an explanation of every part. For example, what is a CPU or what is a GPU? Then we will look at which parts are right for you. How to know these parts are compatible, how do you know if they will work together? Then we will build the PC from start to finish and show the insulation of every single part. I do recommend you watch the entire guide before you order your parts to know what's ahead. Once you start building, you can follow along with the installation of every part. Do know that every PC built is different since there are a lot of different parts on the market. If you'd like the PC that I'm building as the example for this class. I recommend you go over to the video on my YouTube channel and get the parts from there. This class is designed for anyone who would love to learn how to build their own PC and who want as much power as possible without having to break the bank on a pre-built and who likes a future-proof. You can still upgrade the PC and swap out parts as you go. Once you know the basics, it's all smooth sailing. Are you ready? Let's go to the first chapter. Smooth sailing.. 2. Building a Custom PC: Let's do it. What is a custom PC? A personal computer or a PC consists of a lot of different parts that work together just like the human body. I know it might seem like a strange comparison, but let me explain. We start off with the brain or the CPU, also called central processing unit. This is the electronic circuitry that executes information from software, the operating system, etc. In the early days the CPU had just one core to do the calculations, but today CPUs consist of multiple cores, These cores can divide the tasks which really helps speed up processing the information. Why I'm I telling you this? Well, for example, if you need a PC for video editing, you will probably need more course which can really speed up the workflow of your editing tremendously. Then we have the GPU, also called the graphics processing unit. This calculates the image intended for output to a monitor, and these would be the eyes in my odd comparison. Some CPUs have integrated graphics, but a dedicated graphics card in your system will increase the graphics processed by a lot. If your tasks are dependent on heavy graphics like 3D animation or video rendering, you will definitely need a graphics card. If you like playing some games on your PC as well, a GPU is also essential. Then we need something to connect the eyes to the brain, and this is what the motherboard is for. The motherboard would be the nervous system. It holds and allows communication between many of the crucial electronic components of the system, and a motherboard also decides the compatibility of the parts and their ports. Then we have the power supply or PSU, and this would be the heart. Its purpose is to power all the parts with electricity. Then we have RAM or random access memory. RAM is the short-term memory of our PC, it gives applications a place to store and access data on a short-term basis. The speed and capacity are of importance here. More about this in the next chapter though. When we have the short-term memory, we also need the long-term memory on which we store our data and operating system. We have HDDs; also called our typical hard disk drives, or a faster SSD; also called solid state drives. You also have different SSD drives that run on different reading and writing speeds, and most popular SSDs are a 2.5-inch SSD which connects just like an HDD with the SATA cable to the motherboard. There's also an M.2 NVMe SSD drive which is a lot smaller and faster, and connects right on the motherboard. Lastly, to store and protect all the parts, we need a body. This would be the case. The body can get hot, so we also need a way to cool it down. The GPU most of the times has built-in fans to prevent it from overheating and the CPU sometimes also comes with a cooler. Some cases come with fans, but you can also install fans in the case to cool it down. Now that we've fully understand what every part is, let's go over to which parts you should get. 3. Choosing Your PC Parts: In the previous chapter, we talked about which parts you need to build a PC, and in this chapter we're going to talk about which parts you should pick. Before you do anything, think about a budget you're able or willing to spend on this PC. Let's start the other way around to keep it interesting, and you will have to decide how you want your PC to look and how big you want it to be. Depending on the case you pick, you will have to see if your motherboards fits with its components. You can choose between a full tower, mid-tower, mini-tower, or small form factor. In this class, like I said, I will be building a small form factor PC. Regarding brands, the Lian Li and NZXT are very popular and easy to build in for beginners. Some cases come with parts included like the NZXT one that I will be building in. The H1 comes with an all-in-one liquid CPU cooler and a modular power supply. In this case, we don't have to decide on those parts and your PC case can get hot, so find the best cooling options for the case you choose. You might have to get some extra fans. Depending on your preferred k size, you must fit a motherboard, and the different motherboard options are from largest to smallest: Extended ATX, ATX, Micro ATX, and Mini ITX. For the H1 Build we got an As Rog B550 Phantom Gaming Mini ITX, which also has a USB-C header slot for the port on top the H1 case. Once you have the right motherboard for your case, you will have to decide about the CPU you want to install. The two major CPU manufacturers you can pick from are Intel and AMD. They have been battling speeds and prices for a long time, but lately the AMD Ryzen is very popular. I use an AMD Ryzen 7 CPU myself, and for the build in this class we are building with an AMD Ryzen 750, 800 x CPU. As I mentioned previously the CPU speed and number of course, is important for your decision. You can never go wrong with a great CPU, and when you decide the brand for your CPU, you will have to make sure the motherboard supports the socket and version of the CPU. Just make sure we have the right parts. We can look on the motherboards official website, and in the support section you can find which CPUs the motherboard actually supports. Depending on which CPU or case you picked, you will see that it comes with a CPU cooler or not. For example, the AMD Ryzen 7 comes with an AND rave prison cooler, which fits perfectly. The NZXT H1 also comes with a liquid cooler. If neither your CPU nor case comes with a CPU cooler, a great budget solution is a Noctua air cooler, for example. For fencer solution you can always decide to get an AIO or only one CPU cooler, which is a liquid cooler that absorbs heat from the base plate on the CPU. The heat then goes upwards through one of the two tubes, to the radiator, and the radiator then exposes the liquid to air which helps it cool down, and the coolant then re-enters the water block and the cycle begins again. Now the GPU, you can choose between AMD or NVIDIA. You can check for yourself what power you need and which one is the best available for the price. For this build, we got an NVIDIA GeForce 1650 super, since it is one of the better performing GPUs for its price. Don't forget to check the size of the GPU if it fits your case. Same thing applies here as the CPU for the memory, check the support section on the motherboards official website to see if the RAM if it's tested and supported with your motherboard. You need more RAM for heavier tasks. However, if you're planning on gaming on this device as its main purpose, you do not need as much RAM. Every PC needs at least one stick of RAM to be able to operate and check the motherboard's manual to see how many RAM slots it has. Most motherboards have two or four RAM slots, and I personally prefer 32 gigabytes in total or more. Regarding speed, AMD Ryzen CPUs work great with high frequency. Frequency is just as important as the timing, get the highest frequency with the lowest CL timing. Try to see if you can get either 3200 megahertz with CL 16 timing or 3600 megahertz. But keep in mind that if you have four RAM slots and only two at the start, but want to upgrade later, you will need to get the exact same RAM. One quick tip, most RAM do not run at maximum speed right out of the box. You will need to enable the XMP profile into bios. When we're done building we will do this. If you don't do this, the RAM will be running at half the advertised speed. Don't worry, we will get to this exact thing in a later chapter. Lastly, the PSU to provide all the parts with power and different options are a non-modular, semi-modular, or fully modular power supply. I would always go for a fully modular power supply since you probably won't be using all the power slots anyways. This really helps with cable management, and you can get some custom cables too if you like. For the number of watts, you need for your system, lookup a PSU calculator on Google and calculate it by filling in your parts. A good rule of thumb is to get a 100 watts more than you need. Now which storage to pick? If your pick motherboard has access to an NVMe M2 SSD slot, definitely pick that up since it is one of the faster speeds you can get. Just make sure to check the motherboard's manual, to check the speed it can handle, and how to know this, well, a PCIe 3.0 supports one gigabyte per second per lane, and a 2.0 supports 500 megabytes per second per lane. Most commonly it will say something like slot PCIe 3.0 times 4, meaning it allows up to four gigabytes per second reading and writing. Make sure to get the right M2 drive with the read and write speed that your M2 port can handle. I like one terabyte as the sweet spot to install the operating system on, in this case, Windows, which makes it boot and run very fast because of its fast reading and writing speed. For any additional storage, you can choose between a 2.5 inch SSD or hard drive. Personally only like SSDs inside my PC, they're not as expensive as they used to be and are really, really fast. For further resources on which parts to pick, look on PCpartpicker.com or Reddit /r/buildapc, and really do some good research and make sure your parts are compatible. Again, most of this can be found on the motherboard's website. 4. Preparing Your Build: In previous chapters, we have gone through what all the parts are and what parts you need for your build. You're really all excited, and placed an order, and are waiting for them to arrive or maybe they already arrived and you can't wait to open them up. Well, before we actually start unboxing and building, let's go over a few things that might come in handy when actually building. First of all, don't inbox all your parts yet, since this will create a lot of mess and it's hard to find what you're looking for when you're building, so just get the parts in line. If you want the building process to go smoothly, here are a few things you can do before unboxing your motherboard in the next chapter. Most importantly, prepare your workspace. Find a clean and flat surface where you have enough room to build. A wooden desk or table should be fine. Remove any liquids, of course, or clutter and a dust free environment is optimal. Why? Because PC parts can conduct, meaning they can break if something causes it to short-circuit. If you want to be extra safe though, you can decide to get an anti-static bracelet so you can ground yourself. I've built my first PC actually with one, but honestly, if you're not wearing socks on carpet, you should be fine. You can also decide to get a rubber desk mat to build on just to be extra safe, you can quickly touch your metal water tap to ground yourself. Next, we will gather our required tools. The first thing you'll need is a small Phillips head screwdriver. Small because you will have to bend it in weird corners sometimes. I prefer using the Wowstick stake plus, which is a super tiny electronic screwdriver, which has some LEDs on the bottom that automatically turn on, which is very convenient for when you're building in a dark case, for example. Finally, to install Windows 11 at the end, we will need a USB drive with at least eight gigabytes free space. Now that you have everything prepared, it's time to start building. 5. Assembling the Motherboard: In the previous chapter, we have gone through what you need before you can start building. Now that we've got everything prepared, we can get started. Something that surprised me when I build my first PC is that you don't start with the actual case, I mean, you can, but I like to start off assembling the motherboard. What we will do first is unboxing the motherboard and taking a good look at the parts inside the motherboards box, and the manual of course. Some PC parts come in an anti-static bag, open the bag and remove the motherboard. Just make sure it the whole time motherboard as much by its sides and try to avoid touching the soldiering on the bottom or top. Some motherboards like the B550 in my case, rests on an anti-static foam and this so it does not conduct. Keep this under the motherboard when you put it on your table because if your board does not come with a surface like this, it's dangerous and you can actually put the motherboard on its carton box just to be safe. Now most motherboards also come with an IO shield, this is where the motherboard connects for the outside ports of the case. If this is the case for your motherboard, we can install it just before installing the motherboard in the case. The B550 motherboard that I'm building with comes with a built-in IO shield. I would highly suggest reading or scanning over the manual. Like mentioned before, double-checking what you're about to build, and now that we know where everything on the motherboard is supposed to go, we will start installing the parts on it. Starting off with the CPU. 6. Installing the CPU: Now that we have a clean surface to work on, and the motherboard is prepared to have the parts installed on it, we start off by installing the CPU. This is easy, but the most intense. As we've talked about before, CPUs have one flat side, which shows the information about the CPU, which we also eventually put the cooling on. But on the other side, the bottom, the CPU has tiny little pins that connect to the circuit on the motherboard. Now, if one of these pins gets bend, you're going to have a bad time, and you might have to replace the entire CPU. With that in mind, when you start unboxing the CPU, just make sure to grip the CPU by the edges and avoid touching any pins or contacts. Do not apply pressure on the bottom where the pins are. Never. First, open up the CPU socket on the motherboard by detaching the lever and pulling it up. To install the CPU correctly, you will have to find the little triangle in one of the corners of the CPU. If you found it, you align the CPU with the little triangle in the corner of the motherboard CPU socket as well. Hold the CPU is slightly above the socket on a level position and gently lay the processor into the socket. Just let gravity do its work. You should never have to apply pressure to get it into place. With an AMD CPU socket, you will probably just have to close the little small lever and lock it, and with an Intel CPU socket though, you will have to close the entire socket cover and lock the lever down. It's basically the same. Great. Your CPU is now installed, time to attach the RAM, to the motherboard. 7. Inserting the Memory: Now that the CPU is all nice and tight on the motherboard, we can install the memory or RAM. Installing the RAM is actually super easy. Unbox it from the packaging and most of the time it is ready to be installed. Find your RAM slots on your motherboard, and before you try to click it in place, just check which slots we will put it in, so as previously mentioned, check the motherboard's manual or the motherboard itself to see the order of the RAM slots. If you have just two slots and to RAM sticks, you're good to go. If you have four slots and to RAM sticks, look for Slot 1 and 2, which are most of the time not next to each other. If you just have one RAM, just put it in Slot 1. Just look at the motherboards manual to see the order of the slots you should put your RAM sticks in. Now you know in which slot or slots you will have to put your RAM, it's time to install it. Each RAM slot will have two small clips at either side and press these two to the side to open them. You will feel a click, which means they're open. Now you will line up your RAM and RAM sticks are keyed, which means they have a little gap in a connector that will ensure you can only insert them one way, and you have a long and a short side and line up your RAM, so the gap on the connector corresponds with the RAM slot. Now we will have to apply some pressure. With your RAM lined up to the slot, gently press it down into the slot, and you will know when it is connected to the slide once you hear an audible click from the clips we opened earlier. Repeat this process if you have multiple RAM sticks. Awesome, Now you know how to install RAM. Let's continue with the storage. 8. Positioning the Storage: Now that we have the CPU and RAM installed on the motherboard, it is time to install the M.2 NVMe SSD drive. As previously mentioned, I highly recommend you get an M.2 drive. If you did not get it, I will explain how to install other storage in a later chapter. You can skip this one if you want to. I just really recommend you get an M.2 NVMe SSD drive because like I said, it's super fast, small, and convenient. To be honest, I love to just start my PCs with a huge single NVMe drive. Here is how you install it. Again, start off by checking your motherboards manual and your motherboard to see where your primary M.2 slot is. Some motherboards have multiple M.2 slots. Check the manual to find the fastest one like we talked about before. It might also be that your M.2 slot is on the back of the motherboard, which is often the case for smaller motherboards, like the mini-ITX that we're building on. It might be tricky to find if it has a thermal guard. If it does first remove it by removing the screws. Based on the length of your M.2 drive, screwing the motherboard standoff screw for an 80 millimeter M.2 drive like the Samsung 970 EVO Plus, the motherboard already has a screw there. Your motherboards package probably also has a tiny screw to install it or it might be seated on the motherboard already. Hold the drive at a 30 degree angle, just like the RAM sticks it is keyed, meaning it can only go in one way. Once you have it lined out, slide to drive into the M.2 slot gently. Again, do not force it. Once it is installed, it will sit in a raised position. Don't worry, this is normal. If you have a thermal guard for the M.2 drive, make sure to remove the protective plastic of the thermal strip. Check if the thermal guard connects to the same screw as your M.2. If it does, you can now put the thermal guard on the drive, push it both down, and screw the SSD to the motherboard. Just tighten until it's holding the drive down. Do not torque it down. That's it. Now it's time to put the entire motherboard with all its parts in the case. 9. Arranging the Case: In the previous chapters, we installed the motherboard with all its components, and now we will install this into the case. Unbox the case and open it up and you will find a box with all the screws inside. As previously mentioned, if you have a separate IO shield, now's the time to click that into the case before we install the motherboard. Position the case comfortably flat, so we can easily insert and attach the motherboard to the case. Depending on your motherboard, you will have to connect it with a number of screws into the case. Some cases already have standoff screws. If not, you will have to screw these in first, depending on the amount of screws your motherboard needs. Now before we position the motherboard, let's remove all the protective plastic that might still be present on the board. Now, align the motherboard with the case and check where the IO shield is supposed to go, and then insert it into the case. Once inserted and the motherboard attachment holes are all aligned with the case, you can screw the motherboard to the case. In the h1, I can only attach four screws, which is super easy. If your case doesn't come with pre-installed fans, now is the time to install those. Then remember the front of the fans suck air. You want a positive pressure, meaning more air inside your case than being sucked out. If you have an AIO or all-in-one cooler, connect the radiator with its fans first to the front or top of the case and just make sure that the tubes are on the bottom of the radiator for the best performance. Now that the motherboard with all its components is attached to the case, we can attach the CPU cooler to the CPU. 10. Situating the CPU Cooler: In a previous chapter, we inserted the motherboard into the case and we're now ready to provide the CPU with a cooler. Remember I told you that the flat surface with the CPU's information is where we connect the cooler. Well, that's what we're going to do right now, and depending on the cooler you have, we must connect the right attachment. Look at your cooler to see if it is attached with two retention clips or with four springs crews. Most Intel CPUs have a bundled CPU cooler with spring screws, while AMD's prison cooler has retention clips. Some coolers have both options like the N60H1 case. If your motherboard comes with a screwed retention clip mount, you can leave it on if you have a retention clip cooler. If you have a spring screw cooler, you need to screw those brackets off first and then you can connect these four coolers screws directly into the motherboard and tighten the screws until you feel some resistance. In my case, I'm going to leave it on and connect the retention clip mount to the NZXD H1 cooler. Most people actually prefer to put thermal paste on a CPU before connecting the cooler. Although most coolers come with thermal grease, pretty blind, and you do not need to apply thermal grease or thermal paste to the CPU lid in this case. If you do want to put on thermal paste anyways, apply it slightly in an ex button across a CPU lid for best coverage. Do not apply too much dough as excessive thermal pays the flow over the ashes of the processor and reached a socket, which is not good. Just make sure that there is no plastic cover or something on the pre-applied thermal grease. Take off the plastic cover and position the CPU cooler on the processor, so that the retention clips on each side of the heat sink align with the socket mounting lugs on the retention frame on the motherboard. I like to connect one side first and then push down the cooler and the CPU to connect the second clip. When both clips are hooked on to the socket, you're done. You might need to apply some force to get it to connect through, and now lock the cooler with either a lever or screw. In my case, tighten the screws, and do not tighten on one screw all the way first and then the other, but tighten them at the same time. Always check if your CPU cooler is properly secured to the motherboard. Now that the CPU cooler is all positioned, we must connect the CPU fan header to the motherboard. This is how we do that. Every CPU cooler has a fan power lid, connect this cable to the CPU fan header on the motherboard. Again, check all the motherboards manual for the CPU fan header location, and now you might have a second and third cable. If you have a liquid CPU cooler, you will have to connect the CPU cooler pump to either a dedicated CPU water pump fan header or a system fan 1. If your CPU cooler has RGB, you need to connect this cable to an addressable LED or RGB header on the motherboard. That's it for the CPU cooler. 11. Placing the Power Supply: Now that the motherboard, CPU, and cooler are all in place, it's time to install the power supply into the case. For my build, my power supply came built-in. If you get a separate one, though, put your main power cable aside and just get your power supply unit with the cables you're going to need. Which are the cables you need? The most important cable is the 24-pin ATX cable, which powers the motherboard. The next cable you will need is the 8-pin EPS cable, which provides the CPU with power. Then you'll need a PCIe cable for your graphics card. Most of these cables are split into multiple connectors. Depending on which GPU you have, you'll need to connect the number of pins. Most graphics cards need a max of 16 pins, so one cable should be enough. The rest of the cables are optional. You can also install SATA power cables if you want to install any additional SSD or hard drives. You can power multiple drives with one cable. Now it's time to install the power supply into the case. You want to install the power supply, so it's facing the ventilation of the case. Face the fan downwards if there are holes for it to suck cold air in from the bottom. If not, position the PSU fan up. Lastly, install four screws to attach the power supply to the case, and you're done. 12. Connecting the Cables: We're doing fantastic. We installed most of the hardware in previous chapters and now we only must connect all the cables, starting with the cables that come with the case. These are often bundled together so go ahead and separate these cables. Starting with the USB 3 ports in the front of your case, this cable is mostly blue and has a little lid on the side. Connect them to the USB 3 connector on the motherboard by aligning it and then pushing it down. Connect a USB-C to the USB-C connector on the motherboard, which is slightly different, this one can be plugged in both ways. Any other regular USB ports can be connected to a USB header on the motherboard. Always makes sure the pins match with the cable connector. Next, we are connecting the audio header, this connects the mic and headphone jack of the case to the motherboard. Find the audio front header on your motherboard and connect it. If you don't have a fan controller with your case, you can connect any other fans to a fan header. The last cable you need to plug in is this system panel header, this is the power on button and LED. Finally, we plug in the cables to power the motherboard and CPU. Just connect to 24-pin with the ATX connector and 8-pin EPS to the 8-pin CPU connector. Check if the cable is completely connected by seeing if the little clip went over the lip. If you want to install any additional storage, like a 2.5 inch SSD or a hard drive, you can do that right now. The cable is needed for a hard drive or a SATA cable to transfer the data and a power cable, connect these at the back of the drive. The other end of the SATA connects to the SATA ports on the motherboard and SSDs and HDDs can be mounted with four screws to a hard-drive tray in your case. If it is an obvious, check your cases manual. The most likely your case also has smaller SSD trays, SSDs can also be mounted vertically since they have no physical disk. Right now we have all our hardware located, powered, and connected. But we still need to install one thing, the GPU. Let's do that in the next chapter. 13. Installing the GPU: The hard work is finished and the build is almost done, but we still have to install the GPU to the motherboard and the case. Fortunately, this is fairly easy. Make sure to install the GPU on the highest PCI slot on your motherboard for the best performance. Removed the PCI bracket that is in line with the PCI slot by removing the screw. Depending on how many slots your GPU needs, you might have to remove additional brackets. Now unbox the GPU and get it out of the anti-static plastic bag, remove the protective cover from the connector and plug it in. In some cases you can or have to install the GPU vertically. This can be done with a riser card. In the [inaudible] case it comes with this cable and you have to plug it in your motherboard and then connect a GPU to that cable. Connect the GPU by opening the locking tap, just like the memory, and gently slide it in until you hear a click. If you ever want to remove the GPU, unlock the tab and pull it out. Tighten the thumbscrew of the PCI bracket, and now it's time to power to card. Look at the number of pins that is required for your GPU and find a cable name PCIe and plug them into the graphics card. That's it. Your custom PC build is now complete. Wasn't as hard as you thought. 14. Setting Up Your PC: Congratulations, you finished building a custom PC. Let's check if all the components work and set it all up in the BIOS. But before we can do that, we have to find the power supply and connect the power cable to it. Now first, turn the power supply on by flicking the switch and connect your cable to a socket and then connect a monitor to the PC with an HDMI cable. Also connect a keyboard to be able to control the BIOS. Now comes the exciting part, turning your PC on for the first time. Press on the power button on the case and let's see if anything shows up on the monitor. If nothing shows up on the monitor, don't worry. It is probably because you forgot to plug something in. Go over the steps and see if you might have missed something. If everything seems to work fine though, you can do some cable management inside your PC to clean it all up. The PC is now ready for use. You can now install any operating system you like. In this class though, we will be installing the most popular operating system, Windows. Find the second PC or laptop, and insert the empty USB flash drive that we talked about in one of the first chapters. Go to Microsoft's website and download the Windows 10 installation media tool. When it is done downloading, start it up and select create installation media for another PC. Click "The USB Flash Drive" option and then select your USB flash drive. Keep in mind it will remove everything from the USB flash drive, and it must be larger than eight gigabytes. This may take a while, and when it is completed, you can remove the USB flash drive from your second PC or laptop and plug it into the back of your new PC build. Turn your PC on again, and it will recognize the drive and take you to the Windows installation program. Now fill in your Windows key. If you have one or click, "I don't have a product key," and now click on "Custom Install Windows Only." Now it should show your PC storage. Install Windows on your fastest drive, preferably the M2 NVMe SSD drive. Now that Windows is installed, we can uninstall or drivers and configured the BIOS. For the drivers, go to the motherboards website and download and install the recommended drivers. If you have to, unzip the files and run this setup exe files to install the drivers. If you are using an AMD CPU or GPU, go to the AMDs website and download the auto detect software. Running this program will install the correct drivers for your CPU and or GPU. If you have an NVIDIA graphics card, download and install GeForce Experience. Now that all the drivers are finally installed, we will restart the PC and spam the delete key when it is booting to get into the BIOS. When you're in the BIOS, you are basically controlling the motherboard so let's change some settings. You're going to look for the extreme memory profile or XMP setting, enable it and set it to profile 1. They should show the advertised speed for the RAM. From here, you can also look for the CPU fTPM setting and turn it on. This will allow you to install Windows 11 in the future if you want to, and you can also adjust any RGB in your case from here. Now go through the save and exit tab and click "Save and Exit". Now that you've booted up again, you can check if your RAM is running at the correct speed. Search for Task Manager or hit the key combination Control Shift Escape. Click on the "Performance tab" and click on "Memory." Now check if your RAM is running at the correct speed. Check if your PC runs stable. If it crashes, try lowering your system memory multiplier setting in the BIOS until it runs stable. You can now go to ninite.com to install all your favorite programs at once. You are now ready to use your PC at its full potential. 15. Final Thoughts: The most important step of all, just start building. Everything we've talked about in this class has prepared you to build your very first custom PC. We have gone through all the essentials. First, we went through the seven most important parts to build a PC. The case, motherboard, CPU, GPU, RAM, storage, and power supply. We started finding the right parts for you and then we looked at what we needed before we can start building, and then we did the installation of all the parts one-by-one. Eventually we install the operating system windows, and we configured the BIOS settings to get the most out of our parts and remember, every PC build is different, so you never know which challenges you might face, but this is the fun part. Enjoy it. There are plenty people online that want to help you. If you ever get stuck, feel free to ask for help. When you finally did finish building your dream PC, take a picture of your bill and share it in the project gallery. That's it for the PC building class. If you'd like to leave your rating and review, I would be very grateful, and every rating lets other people know if they should follow the class as well. I am planning to make more classes in the future though. If you'd like to stay updated, follow my profile on here on Skillshare and thank you so much for watching. Of course, I wish you best of luck building your very first PC. Enjoy it and have even more fun using it. I hope to see you around. Bye bye.