Pattern Making for Fashion Designing ~ PART 4 ~ Sleeves. Armholes. Cuff. Bishop, Bell, Puff, etc. | Nino Via | Skillshare

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Pattern Making for Fashion Designing ~ PART 4 ~ Sleeves. Armholes. Cuff. Bishop, Bell, Puff, etc.

teacher avatar Nino Via, Fashion Design, Instructor & Consultant

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      #1 - Introduction. Course content.


    • 2.

      #2 - Drafting a Basic Sleeve. Tools needed.


    • 3.

      #3 - Adjusting the Sleeve Cap to fit Armhole


    • 4.

      #4 - Widening the Sleeve at Wrist Level.


    • 5.

      #5 - Drafting a Cuff. Cuff opening. Pleats.


    • 6.

      #6 - Adding fulness in the Sleeve Cap.


    • 7.

      #7 - Bishop sleeve. Puff sleeve.


    • 8.

      #8 - Adding fulness on Top and Bottom of sleeve.


    • 9.

      #9 - Drafting a Bell Sleeve.


    • 10.

      #10 - Conclusion.


    • 11.

      Bonus Lecture: FAQs, and other "goodies", etc.


    • 12.

      What's NEXT? Draping!! (Video Intro)


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About This Class

Drafting Sleeves. Fitting Sleeves into Armhole. Drafting a Cuff. Bell Sleeve. Puff sleeve. Bishop sleeve. etc.

This Course is 'PART 4'of Pattern Making for Fashion Designing. In this Course we will focus on SLEEVES as well as Armholes, Cuffs, and various Sleeve Designs.

In this Course you will learn how to draft a Basic Sleeve (a Straight Sleeve) from scratch, using standard measurements.

You will learn how to resolve the problem of the sleeve not matching the armhole, by adjusting the sleeve to fit the armhole correctly.

You will learn new Terminology such as: Cap, Bicep Circumference, Elbow Circumference, Cap Height, Underarm Seam, Wrist Level.

We will use techniques such as “Slash-and-Spread” to ADD FULLNESS to a sleeve, and thus create new designs.

You will learn how to draft a CUFF.

The Course will show you how to draft:

  • Basic Sleeve (Straight Sleeve)

  • Puff Sleeve

  • Bishop Sleeve

  • Short Sleeve

  • Bell Sleeve

  • "Original Design" sleeve

  • Cuff

    Pattern Drafting is a very important aspect of the Design Process, it takes years of practice to perfect the craft. If you've taken PART 1, and PART 2, and PART 3, this Course will build on top of that, and will definitely elevate the skills necessary to perfect the art of pattern-making.

    We will review the TOOLSused in Pattern Drafting, such as: Hip Curve and French Curve and Notcher. And of course Scissors, ruler, pencil, and Dotted Paper and Manila Paper for drafting purposes.

    My other Pattern Making Courses go over the basic Terminology and Tools necessary for drafting and even though it is not mandatory that you take these other pattern classes, it would be beneficial to have some knowledge of pattern drafting.

    Enjoy the Course.

Meet Your Teacher

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Nino Via

Fashion Design, Instructor & Consultant

Level: All Levels

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1. #1 - Introduction. Course content.: Hello everyone and welcome back. Welcome back to those of you who are familiar with my courses. If this is your first time, then welcome. After many years of experience in the fashion industry, I have put together a great curriculum, including sketching and draping and pattern-making, collection development, branding and marketing. So if you want to learn some new skills or sharpen your skills or upgrade your skills, you've come to the right place. This is, of course, in pattern-making. It's the fourth one actually. And we're going to focus on sleeves. That's what a sleeve looks like. But it's not just about sleeves. You know, some of you might know a little bit of pattern-making and sewing. And you know that the tricky part when it comes to sleeves is that sometimes the sleeve does not fit into the armhole, right? You know, I'm talking about, well I'm gonna show you how to adjust the cap. This is known as the CAP will get to that in a minute. I'm going to show you how to adjust the sleeve so that it will fit the armhole correctly, the armhole of the bodice that you're working on. And then we'll take this basic sloper and using techniques that we've learned in the past like slashing and spreading, for example. We will take this basic sloper are and we'll make, we'll add fullness of the cap of the sleeve and at bottom. of the sleeve, we'll do short sleeves, long sleeve, bell sleeves, cuffs and et cetera, et cetera. So it's a very, it's a very exciting and fun class. And I'm going to start by, we're going to start by learning some new words, some new terminology so that when I'm demonstrating these techniques, you'll know what I'm talking about. For example, this section right here. The cap of the sleeve. Cap. Cap. Okay. This is your bicep level, also known as your bicep circumference. We have the elbow circumference or elbow level, the wrist level where the underarm, the under arm of the sleeve. And then we have the cap height between the top of the sleeve and your bicep level as your Cap Height. Okay, so I'm ready to rock and roll... are you? So I will see you in class. "Ci vediamo in classe". ("See you in class"). 2. #2 - Drafting a Basic Sleeve. Tools needed. : We're going to start by drafting a basic sleeve, a straight sleeve, which we will use as a sloper to draft other sleeves. Alright, let's do it. We're going to start with drafting a basic sleep, a straight sleeve. You will need a ruler, scissors, a French curve, pencil, and a notcher. Okay, we're going to start with a piece of paper, 28 inches in length and 16 inches across. And in the middle of the paper lengthwise, we will draw a grain line. And we will fold the paper in half on our grain line. And we'll place the paper with the fold close to you, like this. And this will be the top of the sleeve. And we'll work our way towards the wrist of the sleeve. So from the edge of the paper you're going to measure down two inches and square a line across. And this will be my CAP line. Now I am going to use a size 4 chart measurements because my size for the form and my bodice front and back are size 4. So I'm going to use these measurements, although these are not written in stone, they can always be slightly changed. So now from this cap line, I'm gonna measure down the cap height, which in my case is 6 inches. So I'm going to measure six inches down and put a cross mark. And we're going to square a line across. So, we have a cap line, we have a Bicep line on your Bicep line measure, half of the bicep circumference. In my case, it's 5.5. So from the fold, measure 5.5 across and put a cross mark. Next, we're going to create our elbow line or elbow level, which is the under arm. The under arm length divided in half minus 1.5 inches, in my case, is 6.5. So from your bicep line, measure down 6.5 and square a line across. That will be our elbow line. Next, on your elbow line, we're going to take our elbow circumference divided in half. In my case it is 4' and 5/8. So from the fold, wanna measure 4 and 5/8. And it's right here. Put a little cross mark right there. Next we're going to create the under arm. Our underarm, our length is 16 inches. So from your bicep level, from your bicep and across mark right there. We're going to measure 16 inches. Crossing this elbow cross mark. So it'll go from your bicep line through your elbow, cross mark, you draw a line down. In my case, it is 16 inches, measure down 16" and stop put across mark. And then we'll create our wrist level. Next to help us shape our cap. I'm going to take the under arm seam and extended it all the way to the cap line, creating a little dotted line, broken lines like that. And then we'll take our fold here, the folded and folded over to meet this newly created broken line, like so. And crease, form a crease like that. And then we will mark the crease with a broken line. And then we will take the cap and fold it over to meet the bicep line and form a crease so that you have an intersection right here. And from this center cross mark right here, we're going to measure up three quarters of an inch. Three quarters of an inch, and put a cross mark right there. Next on your CAP line from the fold measure, one quarter of an inch and put a cross mark. And on your bicep line from your under arm, we are going to measure, we're going to create 2 measurements. One is a quarter of an inch in and one is 1 inch in. So, a quarter of an inch And then 1-inch. Next we're going to use our French curve to shape the cap line. We're gonna start by placing the French curve at the cap at a quarter of an inch cross mark through this three quarters of an inch cross mark. And touching this one-inch cross mark so from here through this mark right here and touching that one. So it will look like this. Next we'll take the French Curve, flip it over and under to create the underarms section. And we'll start from this quarter of an inch cross mark, blending it into the existing shape of the cap. And ...smooth blending. Next we're going to cut the sleeve out. And before I do that, I'm going to put a couple of pins right through the paper, through both layers so that when I cut the paper, it will not shift on me. It'll stay together. And using your scissors, we can go ahead and start cutting. Starting with your cap. We can remove our pins and open up the sleeve and extend the bicep line all the way across as well as the elbow level. Next, this is the front section of the sleeve and this is the back of the sleeve, front and back. And in the front section we're going to shave off a quarter of an inch right here between your bicep level, this corner and this crease, We're going to shave off a quarter of an inch. I'm going to measure from the edge here, measure quarter of an inch in like so. And using your French curve to help you shape this little piece right here. Like so. And make sure it's nice and smooth and blend it. And we're going to cut this out. Next, we're going to put some notches to tell the difference between the front and the back or the sleeve. So the front section will have 1 notch and the back will have 2 notches. Okay. So from this corner right here. We're going to measure 3 inches up and put a cross mark, a notch. And you can use your, your flexible ruler if you want to like this or a tape measure. So from this corner you're going to measure 3 inches right here and put a notch. And the back, we'll have 2 notches. The first is also 3 inches up and then half-inch further is the second notch. So 1 notch for the front and 2 for the back. And we have a straight sleeve. 3. #3 - Adjusting the Sleeve Cap to fit Armhole: I've mentioned how the challenge when it comes to armholes and sleeves Sometimes the sleeve, is too big or too small and it doesn't fit just right. So I'm going to show you how to adjust the cap so that it fits into the armhole correctly. All right, let's do it. So as I was saying, the challenge here is to have the sleeve cap fit correctly into the armhole, right? So sometimes the cap is either too big or too small. So I want to show you how to fix this problem. So I'm going to start by tracing my sleeve onto another piece of dotted paper. So before I do that, I'm going to create a grain line in the middle of the paper so that I can line up my grain line of the sleeve with this grain line right here. I'm going to focus on the sleeve cap, adjusting the sleeve cap to fit the armhole. So for the purpose of this exercise, I don't have to trace the entire sleeve. I'm only going to trace this much and I'll show you how to adjust the cap area we traced. This portion of the sleeve. Again for the purpose of this exercise, I'm going to show you how to adjust the cap section. So I'm going to show you two techniques regarding the sleeve cap. One is how to increase the cap, meaning making it bigger and the other is decreasing the size of the cap, making a smaller. Now, why would I want to do that? Well, let's take a quick example here. For example, this is purely an example. Okay, let's say that when you add the back armhole and the front armhole, let just say that it comes to say 15 inches for example. And let's say that our sleeve cap measures 14 inches. Well, we've got a problem here. So how do I make this sleeve cap, right, which is now 14 How do I make it to be 15, so it fits the armhole correctly? I'm going to show you. So to increase the cap, I'm going to use a technique called slash and spread. If you don't know what I'm talking about, I strongly suggest you take my Pattern-Making 1 class (course), which will demonstrate what slash and spread is all about. Hopefully by now, you all know what that means. So I'm going to slash the center of my sleeve as well. I'm going to slash my bicep level. I'm going to cut on my bicep level and the top of the sleeve, this center grain line. Ok. So I have cut on my bicep level and I've cut the center of the cap. So watch what happens now I'm going to lift my cap like so, see that? I'm going to go up like this. And when I do that, see what happens. This area expands. So I'm slashing and spreading my sleeve cap to add fullness. So if this was once 14, for example, by doing this, we're now increasing the amount of the sleeve cap. We can adjust that. We can make it a half-inch bigger, three-quarters or one inch or whatever is necessary. Ok, so that's the slash and spread technique, once I have my desired measurement that I need to increase here. Basically I'm going to take a piece of dotted paper, just like you've done in the past with any slash and spread technique, I'm going to take a piece of paper, right? And scotch tape, scotch tape. So we've added say, one inch for example. And just re-blend, reshape your cap so that you have a new adjusted measurement. Okay, what if we want to decrease the cap, making it smaller, right? How do we do that? For example, let's say that again, the arm hole is 15 inches and our cap measures 16 inches. So we have to make the cap smaller, will do the opposite of the slash and spread, sort of. The pattern is still kept the same way. We are going to overlap, overlap the two patterns. We are going to overlap the two pieces of the cap. So when you overlap these, this becomes smaller. Now when, when you do that, this bicep level that you've cut will come down into the sleeve. That's okay, that's fine. That's normal. That's just part of the process and technique. But by overlapping, right We're making this measurement smaller. And again then you scotch tape, readjust it all it, clean it up and all that. And you have a new adjusted sleeve cap. So there you have it. In the next lesson, I'm going to show you how to work with the bottom of the sleeve, the wrist level, and we'll introduce the cuff ...see you next class. 4. #4 - Widening the Sleeve at Wrist Level.: Okay, in this class we will talk about the wrist level of the sleeve, the bottom of the sleeve. What if it's too narrow and you can't get your hair through, it will introduce the cuff. Ok, so we have this straight sleeve, which is fairly wide on top, the bicep level. And then it gets narrow at the wrist level. And sometimes this might be a bit too narrow, which is okay if you have a garment where the fabric is a knit fabric and it stretches. And so you're able to slip your hand in and out fairly easily. But what if, what if the garment is a woven fabric and it doesn't give, right? This being so narrow, that's gonna give us a problem because you can't get your hand in and out of the sleeve. So what do we do? We must add fullness at the bottom at the wrist level. So I'm gonna show you how to do that. We're going to do is we're going to trace your straight sleeve, unto another piece of paper. So take a piece of dotted paper and trace your straight sleeve all the way around. And what we're going to do next is we're going to square off a line off of your bicep level. Squaring off a line means... now here's a, here's a square, right? So in a square, every corner is a right angle. It's a 90 degree angle. So if I say square of a line off of your bicep, What that means is you place your ruler on your bicep level. And you square off a line all the way down to your wrist level. And we'll do it on this side and obviously on this side as well. Okay, so you can see that we've added fullness at the wrist level. So if this measurement originally, my wrist original measurement was 7 inches, so now it is 11 inches. So we added 4 inches to be wrist level. We added four inches of fullness. Okay. So we have a lot of fullness at the bottom here, at the wrist level, which is fine, if you sew the sleeve, it'll give you a very wide sleeve at the bottom here, which is... nothing wrong with that. This is a kimono design, so you can leave it like that. But what if you want to have make something like a regular sleeve with a cuff, we're gonna introduce the cuff next. And I'm going to show you how to draft a cuff and how to insert the sleeve into a cuff and et cetera, et cetera. So stay tuned. 5. #5 - Drafting a Cuff. Cuff opening. Pleats.: Okay, in this lesson, I'm going to show you how to draft a cuff. And as well as this opening right here. And some pleats, will talk about pleats. So let's do it. Ok. So let's draft a cuff. I will make mine a 2-inch cuff, although you could have a one-inch cuff, 2-inch cough, three, whatever whatever measurement you'd like. There's no set measurements. So it'll be a 2-inch by nine inch. If I measure my cuff, This is a nine inch cuff. And if you look at your shirts, your husband's shirts, your boyfriend shirts, chances are 9 inches is about the standard measurement for a cuff, but that could vary. So here's a simple, very simple small piece of paper. We're going to draw a grain line in the middle, and we're going to fold that paper in half, crease it on the center. And that will be the, the end of my cuff. this will be the fold line. And like I said, I'll make a 2-inch cuff. So from the fold line, we're going to measure two inch and we'll make it a nine inch cuff. So from one side, going to measure, going to draw a line across. We're gonna measure 9 inch, which is right here. Okay? And then the last thing to do is to add seam allowance. On the side. We're gonna add a quarter of an inch seam allowance like so. And this side as well. And where the cuff gets sewn to the sleeve ok right here. That will be a half-inch seam allowance. Right? And then it's a matter of transferring this information to the other side. And you can just simply cut it. And you have a cuff. And there is your cuff. Okay, so let's go back to this sleeve that we just finished, where we added the fullness of the wrist level, at the bottom here. So we're gonna do a few things here all at once. First of all, all sleeves have an opening. So I'm going to show you how to create an opening on the sleeve and where it goes on the pattern. Number one. Number two, we have to figure out how do we take 11 inches and make it fit into my cuff, which is 9 inches. How do we get 11 inches to fit into 9 inches, in the cuff And thirdly, is. This is the length of my sleeve and this is my wrist level. And, if I add two inches to my existing sleeve. My sleeve is going to look like this. It's going to be extra long, right? So we have to subtract something from the sleeves... a "number" from the sleeve. So when you sew the cuff into sleeve, it'll fit correctly. So all those three things have to be done somewhat at the same time. Okay, so let's start by subtracting a certain amount from the bottom of the sleeve. Now, normally you would say, well, if this is a 2-inch cuff, I'll subtract two inches from the bottom to sleep. Well, not quite. If this is a 2-inch cuff, we going to subtract one inch and a half. We're going to leave a half-inch for "ease", So it's not so tight, right? So I'm going to subtract an inch and a half from the bottom of the sleeve. So measure up an inch and a half. Okay, I'm gonna cut this off and this will be my new wrist level, so to speak. Right. Okay. So I have removed an inch and a half from the bottom of the sleeve. I'm going to cut this sleeve out, so we don't get confused. I'm going cut this leave out right now. Okay, so we said that we have an opening. All sleeves have an opening! The opening can be a tab. This is known as a tab. Or it could be a piece of bias binding to clean finish the edge. So the opening goes in the back section of the sleeve. Again, this is the front section and this is the back section, right... front, ...back. So if you take your sleeve and you divide it into four equal parts, 1,2,3,4, right? You take your sleeve, you divide it in half, and then you take this back and you divide that in half simply by folding one side over the other arm into the center of the sleeve and you slightly crease it like this. That's where the opening goes. And it's usually 3-4 inches. So I'm going to measure from the edge, you're going to measure 1,2,3. And that is the opening of the sleeve. And you literally cut the pattern of the sleeve. So there's the opening. Okay? Okay, the last thing to do is to take this 11 inch sleeve and make it fit into a 9 inch cuff. How do we do that? Pleats! These are pleats. Now, this shirt happens to have 2 pleats, but you can have one or two or three pleats. So let me explain. Alright, so this is 11 and this is 9. So 11 minus 9 is = 2. So there's an extra 2 inch of fabric, (if you will), in here. So I'm gonna take that 2-inch and turn it into a pleat. So from the opening, from the opening, I'm going to measure in one inch or so. And then measure two inches. OK two inches is right here. And this will be my pleat. So I'm going to fold them and show you kind of how it will look when it's all sewn together. Right? This is what a pleat looks like. See that? I'm just going to pin it real quick to show you what it would look like when it's so sewn together. There's your pleat. And so now my sleeve matches my cuff. There you go. That's how it works. And the last thing to mark on the cuff is a button hole and a button. So one side gets the button hole. Right, and the other side gets the button. Button holes and buttons are covered in my Pattern (Part 3) class (Course), so check it out as well as piping and bias binding. How to apply bias binding like this, for example, not just on sleeves but neck lines and cuffs and hems and princess seams and so on. You're probably wondering, wait a minute, this is pink and this is blue. And if this is the fold right here, how can this be pink and blue? Well, very simple. All you have to do is separate. You can cut this line right here on the fold. Separate the two pieces. Add seam allowance, of course. And you can cut one in pink fabric and one in blue fabric and then sew back together. It's that simple. Okay. There you have it. 6. #6 - Adding fulness in the Sleeve Cap.: In this lesson, we're going to learn how to add fullness in the top of the sleeve. In the cap section, fullness, gathers, shirring. Let's do it. Ok, so I've taken this sleeve we just finished and I am stapling it to manila paper because I'm going to use it as a sloper to create other sleeves. So you want to retain this information of the grain lines and transfer the grain lines onto the other side. And the easiest way to do it is you take a push pin or two, an awl, if you have one, if not a push pin will do. And we are going to make two little tiny holes right through the grain line, like one, say around here, through and through. So it shows up on the other side like this. And will do same thing on top section, say like here. So you have a little tiny hole right there as well. And then with your ruler, you take your ruler and you literally connect the dots, so to speak. So you have a new grain line right through the center of the sleeve, which will match what's on this side. And then just connect the bicep level. And there you have it. Okay, so what if we wanted to add fullness in the cap? Fullness, gathers, shirring, all the same thing. Kinda like this for example. Or this. So what I'm going to do, I'm going to place this sloper onto another piece of paper, dotted paper and trace my pattern all the way around. And before I start tracing my pattern, I'm going to start by creating this grain line onto my dotted paper. So with your ruler, create a center grain line. And then you place your pattern like so, and trace your pattern all the way around. Next, I'm going to cut this pattern out. Next I'm going to use the slash and spread technique to add my fullness in the cap. And we're going to add some "slash" lines from the cap area to the wrist. Several, I'll put two... two on this side of the grain line and two on this side. Okay? Here we have some slash lines. I'm going to slash and spread the pattern to add fulness on top. And next I'm going to slash on my slash lines from the cap all the way down to your wrist level. And just leave a little bit of paper attached so you don't detach it altogether, just leave a little bit of paper attached right there. And you do that with all these guidelines. So I have slashed and spread my pattern in the cap area. And you know, how much fullness the add is really totally up to you. it could be, it could be a couple of inches or you can really slash and spread it to add a lot of fullness. Next, I'm using scotch tape to hold my pieces in place. And the last thing to do is to recreate the cap section because right now you see it's all jaggered, it's all uneven. So I'm going to create a nice smooth curve. So the challenge here is to create a new smooth, beautiful curve new cap section by blending. All of these are points, in other words, so you have a point here and here, and here and here and here and so on. So the idea is to find the middle section, so to speak. So it will be somewhere in here like this. And I'm gonna use my French Curve or my hip curve to create a beautiful smooth line. And they would look something like this. And you might have to adjust your hip curve. And maybe even use the French curve at times. So that we have a beautiful smooth, one continuous line that goes across here. And then it continues on to the other side, like this. And it blends back into the original under arm. So then it's just a matter of cleaning it up. And then that's pretty much done. So now you have fullness. All this will be gathered to fit into the arm hole of the bodice. Okay. So that's how you do it. 7. #7 - Bishop sleeve. Puff sleeve.: Okay, in this lesson, we're going to learn how to add fullness at the bottom of the sleeve, also known as a bishop sleep. And then we'll take that and turn it to a short sleeve. Then we'll do a bell sleeve and so on. Okay, so what if we wanted to add fullness at the bottom of the sleeve instead of the cap and add fulness at the wrist level. What do we do? So again, we would start by tracing our sloper unto another piece of dotted paper, right? You would cut the pattern out. Okay, we've cut the pattern out and just like in the previous sleeve, we've created some "slash" lines. But this time, instead of going from the cap down to the wrist level, we're going in the opposite direction. We are going to slash from the bottom, going to the cap, we're gonna slash all these slash lines, there are five in this case. And we're gonna leave just a little bit of paper attached at the cap area. So I'll do all these slash lines just like that. We have slashed and We're spreading our pattern to add fullness at the bottom. And you can add a little bit of fullness or make it a very wide sleeve. It's really up to you. And then we'll put a piece of paper underneath. And like we always do with our slash and spread technique, we put some scotch tape to hold our pieces in place and we're going to use our hip curve, smooth curve, and that'll be our new wrist level. Now, do you remember our cuff? Well, if we gather this fabric into the cuff, if we gather the fabric to fit into a cuff, right? shirring, gathers.... It'll look like this, which is also known as a bishop sleeve. Okay? And if we wanted to turn this into a short sleeve, it would look like this. And that's very simple to do because all you have to do is say, for example, we can measure 3 inches and the under arm ,1, 2,3, Right? And we'll do the same thing on this side, measure 3 inches. And then basically create a new sleeve. You can follow these dots or you could just measure down three inches. So you would have something that looks like this, a short sleeve. Imagine just cutting it here, right? Cutting it right here. You have a short sleeve. Right, now, imagine a short sleeve. And if we gather this fabric into again, another, say, another version of a cuff, a small cuff, for example, maybe not two inch, one inch, an inch and half, right? You would gather this into a cuff to create something like this. 8. #8 - Adding fulness on Top and Bottom of sleeve.: Are we having fun yet? We've got a lot more to go. For example, what if we wanted to add fullness on top AND on the bottom of the sleeve. Let's see what happens. Well, what if you wanted to design something like this where there is fullness on top and on the bottom. Now in this case, this particular design is not a full length sleeve. It's really... at the elbow level, but the process is similar. Can you guess how we do this? So we have our sloper and we trace our sloper all the way around. We have our "slash" lines. And because it's a sort of a short sleeve down to the elbow, I'm just going to cut it right here. Here are my slash lines. Can you guess what's next? Well, if you guessed, slashing and spreading the pieces evenly on top and on the bottom like this. Well, you guessed it right. Yes, you can do this. You can add fullness on top and the bottom by slashing and spreading the pieces to achieve your desired design. And just like we did in the previous designs, we're going to blend our cap. So we have a nice smooth line and going to add a cuff. So we can create, shirring and gathers here to fit into the cuff. There's your sleeve. 9. #9 - Drafting a Bell Sleeve.: Okay, in this lesson, we're gonna look at Bell sleeves. Now. There are several variations of Bell sleeves. This one that I'm going to show you, I think it's a really beautiful design. Hope you like it. Let's do it. So what if you wanted to make something like this? Ok, well, here we go. I'm going to start with the basic sleeve, the straight sleeve. And by now you know the... you know the routine. You trace your sloper unto another piece of paper, which I've done already here it is. And I've got my grain lines. In this case, we definitely need to know what the elbow level is, so make sure you mark your elbow level. Now if you look at this picture, this image, you notice the bottom half of the sleeve. It almost looks like a little miniature circle skirt, doesn't it? So I'm going to leave the top portion as is. I'm not going to touch it because it's fine the way it is. I'm going to cut on the elbow line on the elbow level and going to slash and spread the bottom half of the sleeve. Okay, so I've created some "slash" lines in the bottom section of the sleeve. Next, I'm going to cut on the elbow line and separate these two pieces. And next I'm going to slash and spread the pattern, the bottom half of the sleeve, like this. So I am slashing on these lines, just leaving a little bit of paper attached at the top section right here. So there.... there's slashing and... more time. And I'm going to slash and spread this portion right here. And I'm going to create sort of a circular shape because that's what the design of the sleeve is telling me. And again, how much of a sweep at the bottom, that's really up to you. You be the judge of that. And now, as usual, we want to take a piece of another piece of paper place it underneath, which will give me the bottom half of the sleeve. Okay, so I slashed and spread this portion of the sleeve. And now just a matter of reshaping and re-blending these curves right here, at the elbow level and at the bottom. Like that. And now it's just a matter of cutting the pattern out. There, we have it. And then this gets sewn back onto the elbow level. And this gets sewn to become a little skirt. Ok. Thant's it. 10. #10 - Conclusion.: Well, thank you for completing the course. I hope you've enjoyed it. Check out my other pattern-making courses, as well as the sketching and draping and collection development. If you're interested in the business aspect of the industry, there is "The Business of Fashion", as well as Marketing and Branding. So check out the other courses and follow me on my YouTube channel. And @ninovia1 , is my handle and SUBSCRIBE, I post weekly content. So I will see you in the next course. I will see you in class, "Ci vediamo in classe. Ciao." 11. Bonus Lecture: FAQs, and other "goodies", etc.: Hello everyone. In this bonus video, I'm going to answer the most frequently asked questions that I get from you guys, like supplies. When do I get my supplies from whatever gets scissors and muslin paper and so on. How do I get addressed for them when we get to dress form? And what's a good textbook to use e.g. so I'm going to answer all those questions for you. So when it comes to supplies, the company that I use, and it's a great, great, great company, is called French European Inc. They have every supply, every item you can imagine for fashion designing, for draping, for pattern-making and so on. So check them out. Including forums, yes, including dress forums. When it comes to textbook, this is a great textbook for pattern-making. It's called pattern-making profession designed by Helen Joseph Armstrong. I highly recommend it. Okay. So that's that on supplies, dress forms, textbook. So, okay, moving right along, what is the first course that I should start with? What is the order that I should take your courses in? Or another way of saying it is, I love fashion designing. How do I start? Where do I start? Right? So I'm going to answer your question like this. You could divide the industry, the fashion industry, into two areas that co-exist. One is the creative aspects of the industry, and another is the business aspect. And the two have to work together. If you're in the creative aspect, meaning if you'd like to sketch and paint and draw, I would say start with sketching, sketching classes and the draping classes and the pattern-making classes, which there are quite a few, as well as the fabric course, which is really quite an intense course. But if you say, well, you know what, I'm not really very artistic. I liked the business part. I like to buy and sell fashion and social media. Then the course is to take would be the business of fashion. That's the title of the course, which is, as the title says, it's about the business side, right? The financial aspect, buying and selling. Then there's also marketing and branding. Have you ever wanted to draft? A basic bar is basic pattern from scratch, using specific measurements to fit your form, to fit yourself, to fit a customer well. In this course, I'm going to show you how to do that. I'm going to show you how to measure a body so that you can create and draft a basic bodice, front and back, and a skirt as well. But there's one course which is how to create a fashion collection and launch your own brand. Which is really an overall picture of the whole process from beginning to end, meaning from the inception, from your ideas and mood boards and sketching and some pattern-making and draping onto production, manufacturing, some of the business of fascism, branding and marketing and so on. That will give you an overall picture of the industry runs. It'll give you a good idea, maybe which way to go, which way to start, how to start the process of taking these courses and learning about the fashion designing process. Okay. How did I get started in fashion design? I get asked that question many times. Well, let's start with the fact that I was born and raised in Rome, Italy. So I was surrounded by art and history and beauty. I mean, wherever you turn in Rome, There's beauty like fountains, e.g. such as the Trevi Fountain, where the famous movie like Dolce Vita by Federico Fellini was shot with Marcelo Master Yan. And the beautiful and either Egbert and of course, architectural wonders like the Colosseum and frescoes. Rama kept bell logic that I was always good in. I was drawing and sketching and painting. When I was 13 years old, my parents immigrated to New York and I eventually attended one of the best fashion design schools in the world, FIT Fashion Institute of Technology, fashioned by day and yes, music at night. I was in Iraq. After graduating from FIT, I worked at Ralph Lauren and we had the best Italian tailors in the world who share with me knowledge and skills and wisdom from the old school, which I incorporate in my classes. My mom was a seamstress. She was always working on some project or another, either making something for myself and my brother or working for a factory sewing clothes. So I looked at her sewing machine as a toy and I started playing around with it. When my mom passed away. She left me her fashion design homework notebook from when she went to school in Italy, something I will always treasure because it's full of inspiring information not available in any textbook or school. After working in the industry for many years and teaching at FID m, the Fashion Institute in Los Angeles. I decided to start sharing my knowledge and experience online, creating fashion premier Academy, where I teach courses on sketching and draping and pattern-making, branding and marketing, textiles and board. I also have a YouTube channel where I answer all my students questions. So I look forward to answering more of your questions or senior on Zoom. She been Yammer in classic Ciao. Fashion can be a form of self-expression, of fun and creativity and can be a vehicle for you to make a difference in the world. But what if you're lacking the resources to grow? Did you know that Samsung has a fashion division? Yep, they do. Their vision is to support and empower new designers and companies that want to grow and expand. As a consultant with Samsung, I am positioned to introduce new brands to Samsung's resources. The possibility to elevate your brand to a whole new level. When I was working at Ralph Lauren, we had weekly meetings and fitting on a model. Model would come in, we would try on the latest samples, jackets, dress. And so on. One day we had this new jacket and the model puts it on. And Ralph says that lapel should be an eighth of an inch smaller. I was so young and naive. I didn't know. I'm thinking, well, an eighth of an inch. Who's going to know the difference? An eighth of an inch, right? Anyway. So took notes, went back to the sample room till the tailors, seamstresses what to, what to do and so on. Fast-forward. Many, many years later, I am teaching at the Fashion Institute one day. In my classroom, I got my 17, 18 students around my, my table. I'm doing a demo and I'm telling them this story. And I told him that sometimes a little difference, like an eighth of an inch makes a difference between good and great. Anyway, so I do my demo, I tell the story, they go back to their desks and they continue with their work. And I'm walking around the classroom to see how they're doing. And one student, this one girl, was writing something on her hand. So she is writing something. What are you doing? And she showed it to me and it said, the difference between good and great is an eighth of an inch. Pay attention to details. Sometimes the difference between good and great, it's an eighth of an inch. And one more thing. For those of you who need one-on-one coaching and tutoring, I am available. That service is available. We can zoom, we can FaceTime. Or if you prefer, just a simple phone call, that'll work just as well. I would love to take you to the next level. So email me via and subscribe to my YouTube channel, you know, V01. 12. What's NEXT? Draping!! (Video Intro): All right, what's next? You've taken the sketching course, the pattern making part one, part two, part three, part four. At this point, you have a few options. One popular course is how to draft a basic bodice pattern from scratch using your own measurements or your dress form measurement. Another popular course is Pattern Making part five, which is really a combination of pattern making and draping an advanced course. In both cases, it would be helpful if you had a dress form. Now speaking of draping and dress forms, I think draping would be the next course to take. And even if you don't have a dress form, watching these videos and seeing how these patents are developed from a draping standpoint, it will help you enhance and elevate your designing skills. Not to mention that if you are really serious about being a fashion designer, I suggest you do purchase a dress form, not only to drape on it, but also to use it for fitting purposes. You know, if you want to see if a garment fits correctly, is it too big? Is it too small? Ultimately, to use a dress form and draping as a way to create new ideas, it is a great way to develop new designs. So let me show you what draping course is all about. Welcome to Draping for fashion Design. Where you will be able to use fabric and start positioning and pinning fabric to a dress form in order to develop the structure for new ideas and new designs using the draping process. Even though this is a basic course in draping where yes, you will learn how to drape a one dark bodice and a two dark bodice and a basic skirt. You will also learn things that are a little more advanced, like draping a circle skirt and a basic dress. If you are pursuing your interests in fashion design, well, then this course will add a whole new dimension to your knowledge of the fashion design process. If you've taken any of my other courses in pattern making and sketching, and collection development, well then this is a great addition to your learning experience of fashion design. Get some fabric, let's start draping. I will see you in class.