Transcripts
1. 1 Introduction: hi and welcome to my latest course. I'm going to be showing you how to take patterns from existing garments. Whether it's a simple T shirt frills from dresses gathering from skirts, tux, elastic, ated, waistbands shaping and war, I'm going to show you all of a these techniques flat. I'm also going to show you another technique which is draping fabric on the mannequin over an existing garment. I hope you enjoy the course.
2. 2 Taking a pattern of a simple vest top Part 1: in this lesson, I'm going to be taken a pattern of a very simple rest stop. This applies to women's wear or men's, where the procedure is exactly the same. Eso here I have my basic T basic vest top. No sleeves, no frills. Nothing. The one thing you do have to take into consideration if you want to copy an existing government is whether it has stretched on on a lot of these T shirts and vest tops Do have a bit of stretch. As you can see, this government has a bit of stretch. So if you want to replicate this government, you just have to consider the fabric that you're going to be, then redeveloping your rest. Stop in. There's no point taking a pattern from a really stretchy T shirt and then doing in something really heavy because it just won't look anything like it. So the idea is that we're copying exactly or very similarly, of the weight of the fabric and the stretch or the woven on things like that. So first thing to do is we're going to assume this government is a symmetrical garment, so we want to kind of find where the middle on the back is so the way I do it is one of 22 ways you can late lay or garment flat on you can either measure some key points. Let's go from the arm hole to the arm hole, for instance. This is 41. So what? We are going to assume that the middle is something like 20.5. You can just get a pin and just measure somewhere in the middle. So start the top. This is just to find our center front and center back with what we're going to do is just going to draft out half the pattern on the the half, the front and half the back. We're gonna shoot. It's a symmetrical. So when we come to do the final product, we know that the government is completely symmetrical on, and then another key point is something somewhere like the hair. Make sure your government is completely laid out flat, and you can see where the seam stitched together. You can lie those out flat, get the middle off the garment. It is 44 on the him were working in centimeters, so you can change these up two inches. Eso the middle of that is 22. So we're gonna just put a pin there. The other really easy way of doing this. If you don't maybe have a measuring tape, you can just fold your garment in half so you can just get your arm hole points on your hem points or fold your garment in half. That's soaps like that, and then that's a really good way can see. There. You can see where my pins are here and here it have. It's a good way of finding where the middle off your garment it, so that's quite a good way of indicating the center front center back. So you can pin along this line for a guide. Or, if you have this wonderful stuff totaling tape, you can get this off more plan. Just caught a little bit off my scissors. Got a little bit off Andi. Just stick a bit down that center front line down the middle, right the way to the top on the bottom. Just remove those pins to say that we don't we're in any of the garments. Another thing if you don't want to ruin your garments when you're pinning on all these things that just be quite careful If it's your own, you know, you don't want lots of pinholes, anything eso we'll do exactly the same with the back. So what I'll do is I'll just fold this one in half and find my back. So I'm just gonna fold my shoulders over. I can see where my shoulder seams are, So I'm gonna just fold that and join those exactly in the middle there and find my center back point. I'm just going to stick a pin in there so I can see the centre back point there somewhere like that. And then I'm going to do exactly the same with him, are joined my seems together, and then find where my center back is. Just put a pin in there, Onda. Uh, Then what I'll do is measure just to get another point just so that I get it really accurately. It's all about measuring cross checking. Always get your measuring taping. Just double check the measurements. Sometimes garment, see if you can. You pull them out of shape. You know you don't want to be taking a pattern with all out of shape So you wanna always kind of lay it out flat? Just measure underarm points. 41. Very, very similar. Front and back. So we're gonna mark a point 20.5 again. Stick a pin in There just is a bit of a reference, and then get your tailoring safe against little bit longer the center back, and then just gonna take a line right the way down the centre back. I like that. Lovely. Take remove those pins. You can leave the pins in, but, uh, I don't want to making marks or anything like that. So there you go. There's off. Send to back on. We've got our center front. Brilliant. So what we want to do is just mark or now, on paper, where are sent front and center, Front line is don't forget we're gonna be working net. So that is without all the seam allowances that is, we're working on the actual stick shine. So that is the outside edge of your garment on the seams, which actually stitched together. So leave that aside, we're going to do is draft. I straight line down the page here, and we're going to label that sent from cf for sure, because we have to do things quick in this business. So then what you want to do is get your center front line on, line it up top and bottom with this red line so you can pin that through or use weights. It's up so I can get underneath there. The idea is, you pin this down all I could say if you've got weights, if you've got a very, um, expensive, all very delicate fabric that you really just don't want to have any pins and you can use weights, uh, anything you've got that would just kind of weight that down just so that you and you can see through gonna pin that on the centre front. So we know that that's always the center fun, and it's no going to move in. Like I said, we can get just trace off one side of it and assume this garment is a symmetrical government. So pinned this it down here, make sure you don't stretch the garment too much. Just keep an eye on your grain line is quite an easy one to see because of the stripe across the cancer you can use That's quite a good guideline. The stripe is going a completely right angle to my center front. So complete under I don't I don't wanna pin it. You know, like this. You want to keep the government relax, keep the fabric relaxed, and just pin very delicately on the outside edges. Okay, That all is my underarm point trying to keep out of your way in that down. And then I'm just gonna pin one more in the shoulder seam. If you can't see my shoulder seam, I'm just gonna mark that on Fuchs. It's quite hard to see up there, actually, So my shoulder actually is. It's quiet to me to see. Actually, my shoulder is the That's where my shoulder point is that just so you can see that clearly . And then I'm skin to pin a pin through the so you can see try and keep your paper flat underneath. Now we're just worrying about this left side now and then afterwards we know that this is going to be symmetrical. So what you want to do is you can quite easily I'll do this in pencil. You can see is mark around the outside edges. Make sure you don't any pen or anything on your government itself. So just do. Really? Ah, could be really rough at this point. Doesn't have to be accurate, which is getting to get a rough market. And we can always work back into it afterwards. And then this. You can mark. You'll see afterwards. When I lift this off the outline, you're gonna go mark my shoulder line there. Mark, if you get a little, uh, quick kink in it, you know, the the arm hole is actually wanting to be smooth. You know, you don't wanna have these imperfections. I think at one point in its life it was actually a nice round arm hole. So we're gonna keep our lines really nice and smooth around. Now we've got to a point where actually, I can't draw on the paper anymore because you can see now I've got internal lines. So you want to get your trusty tracing will again, You can get these online Eastern Staples. More plan is a brilliant come in all different shapes and sizes. We traced them along with just make a tiny indentation of tiny little dotted lines. Eso these are really great and actually an essential tool, I think four tracing through garments. So you just want to mark quite lightly your shoulder point through there and you can't see anything at the moment. But when I take it off, you can see lots of dotted lines and then trace around your neckline, but, uh great. So let's lift this off, see what we have. It's on pin that very carefully again. Make sure you be very careful with any garments that you have. Oops, amazing apologies. If you can hear my dog snoring next to me is having a nap. Now, this is where we got to without being able to draw on the on the paper. So I'm going to just now draw back in using my we lock or dotted line again. This computers rough at this stage. So you just want to monk in There you go. And there's my neckline. So if you consider starting to take take shape, that is the front off my vester. So we want to repeat exactly the same for the back. I'm gonna do this a little bit quicker, right? So we've got my back again drawer, my draw. The center leave yourself enough space again. I'm going to assume it's symmetrical. Usual pattern. Master. Your ruler. The edge of the table. Whatever you have, Teoh, draw your straight line down your spot across paper and again Mark on a pin on school. Sorry. Your garment or waited.
3. 3 Taking a pattern of a simple vest top Part 2: using you'll center back line you could see the red line just poking out the top and bottoms we're gonna pin at the bottom pin at the top I get you. And then again pin the sides consistory about my snoring dog. Oh, yes, news. Tough life being a dog. Okay, so, as you can see might back him here is slightly higher than my front him. Which means I can't draw on this. We're going to use our tracing well again to just get up. Back him in here. Give it a good trace through. Once you've lifted that garment on, you'll never really get it back to where it waas on the stitch line of my side Seam. I can actually see where that is. So going to draw down there again? Keep it quiet. Rough at this point, right? So I've got a bit of a front arm hole showing there, so I'm just again going to use my tracing wheel to just go around the arm hole because it does move in slightly. I don't want Teoh. I can't actually get my pen on, uh, on my neckline. There, As you can see, my shoulder is creeping over the top there. So this is a little bit tricky cause I've actually not got a flat shoulder. You can see that my shoulder actually goes over there. So what I'm going to do, actually, is Mark on with my tape where that sits on the government's you can see there, that's the edge of the garment to where it's sitting Just more corn where that comes to. I'm openness. You'll see what happens after I take this off of my own. Pinned everything. Yeah, so we know that we're missing that. But what you do find that your back shoulder often creeps over because your back is slightly longer than your front. So what we're missing is this area now off my pattern? So let's just mark here on my shoulder to circuit, see where we're going, Okay? So she can see it looks a little bit short and cut off. So what we want to do is flip the government. Eva, pull this down a little bit so you can see what I'm doing and then line up your shoulder point of it. You're missing Lineouts. That that's the bit that we're missing. Okay, way. Want to just get that little little try and go back in that were wrapped over and we couldn't We couldn't, uh, see, it's lots of it. Got that little triangle. So you go, there's my shoulder back in where it meets to the front, Get your tracing will. And then that's my neckline carried around. And then if you draw your dotted line and there you go, there's your for that's the back shoulder joined up like that. So we've got the basic outline off the garment, but as you can see, it's all a bit rough at the moment. It's just a draw in my back. Him and you can always go back and cross check. Your God will make sure that center make sure you're sent about length is the same. Make sure your center front the measurements that we had on the underarms 20.5. You can always go and check it all backwards, but what we want to do now is actually make sure that these side seems actually do match up . So let's start with the front, and I always like to start with the front. I normally start from the back and then I normally go top to bottom don't know why. It's just a general kind of rule that I do. So that's join up these dotted lines with your ruler. Make this for really, really nice line. We want to make that already. Nice curve there. Let's measure that. Do is they can t see. It's starting to create really nice shape actually. So yet we've already got our nice shoulder line in there. Make this a really nice curved, um ho on. Then again, with you're you go. I mean, I've just done that by I because I done It's 100 times before, but you can get your pattern master at your curves. Put a nice curve in there with your rulers. Anything that helps you to make a a nice shape on this arm. So the key thing is now because we've got really nice front, we want to make it Murray up with the back. So the best thing is to do now on this is what I find a lot of, um, mistakes happen is people trace a pattern offer. Actually, don't check it back on. You know, when you do trace pants off things do move. Things are a little bit owl, you know. They do need to be a little bit in a minute places. Sometimes they're left off. The government isn't always perfect to the right. So it is just about taking kind of an average or making educated decision as to you know, what you think is best to do, whether it's lowering the hem if they don't quite match. So let's just give this side senior measure. So just run your tape measure right the way down it. Just walk it through like this with your fingers right on the edge off that line, and you can see that edge comes to 36 0.5. So what we want is that one to be 36.5. So that's just draw in this nice line. What, you can do it. Actually, you can cut down this line on G, make sure that that nice curve is actually sitting exactly on that lovely curve there. So let's That's our underground point. Let's measure and see if it is indeed 36.5, probably no knowing my measuring or its 30. So is 35.5. So we were sent to me to row, so we need to make a decision of what to do. So the best thing to do is go back to your garment and actually measure what this one is, and it will give you something that's a bit more accurate. So let's go and measure. That's major This so from the top to the bottom. So it's actually 30. 35.5, just slightly over. So actually, my front is longer. So let's What did we say? This was 30. 34.5. So the 25.5 Oh, they're 25. So actually, we're gonna are my My front is actually slightly too long, so it wouldn't hurt, actually make it fit. We're going to actually maybe shorten that from just a little bit just to get that measuring 35.5. So that line actually doesn't exist. And that's okay because the key thing is to make sure these joining stitch lines joined together. So let's join. Let's make It's a really nice And like I said, governments do stretch out of place. You know, the key thing is to measure that back, and actually the front was hanging slightly lower than the backers we saw. So the other thing is to make make sure the shoulders joy not that's the other stitch that goes together. So let's measure this shoulder this shoulders measuring approximately 2.4 centimeters there . The other thing is, we want to make sure that this shoulder is two point for or its 2.5 not bad. So, you know, that's one millimeter. That is not bad a tool. So it's just join up. These doctor lines make a really nice line like that and then a nice arm hole curve. Lovely, doubly so. Here we are. We don't really need that line anymore. That's just where it wrapped over the top. So we do have to half so well, Garment. Like I said, it's quite good practice here, really, loosely. The good thing is to do is that we just put that there So you can see is to lay flipped over and lay on. These seems here so you can see that they join and you can see through this paper. It's really good whether you're using tracing paper, but you can see this nice curve under here that they join from the underarm to that new hem point on. The other one is joining the shoulder, so it's just marrying up the lines, making sure it fits back together, even joy making sure there's underarm points that nice and you get a really nice horseshoe shaped curve on your under arm like that. So that's your basic pattern. And then the other thing to do is we want to put a seam allowance on it. So we're going to just put one sent to me to see my wants all the way around again. You can Usual pattern master or your Rula. You get one sense meter if you want to add on more. If it's a government for yourself, add more seam allowance on. And if it's not quite fitting, gives you a little bit of leeway to unpick it out a little bit in, take a little bit out, but they go there sure sent to me to see you. Now I'm just taking out there now, my papers holding up. So there's my centimeter seamounts on their you know, we know that this is on the fold, so this is on the fold so we don't want a seam allowance down the center back and a centre front. Just doing this really roughly. This is a kind of universal indication for on the fold, which means literally, if you fold that line in half on, pin the edges together and cut out, that will be a symmetrical garment. So we're gonna just put a seamount around here a short earlier. But actually, I want that line back in. There's my shoulder on my front arm Hole on. This will pay again. The line that we drew on first of all is your stitch line. So this is now your one sent to me to see without being added on for that is your front fist took on. This is your back Chris took. And there you have it and that those rules really apply to all garments. Really? Assuming you have a symmetrical garment, it's measuring Andi pinning on very quickly or very, very delicately onto the paper on bond. There you have it. Front and back. Vester. Thank you. Join me in the next. Listen, find out about Mawr drafting from your own governments
4. 4 Drafting gathering & a box pleat from a skirt : so in today. Listen, we're going to take a pattern of something with Gathers in it, which actually looks a lot more complicated than it really is. Because these garments, you can actually lay flat. I mean, unless you unpick your garments, which you know you don't really want tohave Teoh things that you can't pin flat like we did with the vest top or T shirts or anything like that on because they will, you know, if it's gotta gathered waistline or something like that. So it looks a little tricky to take the personal. But things like this, like I said, are actually a lot easier than they look against gog. Almost like this is just a simple gathered skirt are often the same back in front in terms of volume, so that they, you know, like they balance out So you don't have lots of William at the back and on some of the little at the front. They often have quite a balanced, you know, hem line, whether it's front and back. So that's quite a good indication as well again, measure or the hem lines and everything like that, and you can see for yourself where the side seams are, Measure it side seem to side semen on whether it actually is. As you know, it's the same volume, front and back. And I just laid this one out and actually for lay my side seem out front. It is exactly the same volume front and back. So again on the him, that is a great indication of the fact that we can use the same kind of method for both front and back. So governments like this actually again, I'm going to just measure this front hem line for you. See your measuring tape, find where your side Siemens and your or your center back wherever you know half your garment is. Let's work with the front first on and there's a Here's my his my stitch line. It's been hard to see. I'm going to just try and remove that lining up inside so you can see this government a bit better so that here's my stitch line and I'm gonna measure round. Don't pull it or stretch it or anything like that. Just measure around very softly on the front hem line on bond. Get until we get to the other stitch line, which is my other side seam. And what if we got so far? Here's my other side Seam coming up quite a big, big skirt. Ah, 138. So 138 by two. Sorry, this isn't sentiment is 69 centimeters. So that's where we're going to assume from side Seem to side Seam is my center front point so or sit somewhere around here. So let me, first of all, draw in my centre front line because we know that the volume off this skirt is the same front and back. This line here can be center front. Andi, my center back, and we can use the same method for the front and back savings time on paper. So this is my fold line, because if we fold that pattern out, we know it's going to be symmetrical. So let's drop in my hem line on again, using the stripe on the print of a garment. You can see that with these gathered skirts. A lot of them are actually a straight line, so let's draw in at a right angle to my center front and my center back. We're going to draw in a straight line on that measurement 69 centimeters. That is what our measuring is going to be from our center front toe. Our society measure remember, it's always on the half, because when we flip that pattern out, that's when we get that whole volume off. The older you get right on the edge there, 69 centimeters. There you go, 69. And actually, in fact, what you will find is, well, again, you can do a bit of a measure through there, but we can start off by Ah, let's just drafting are gathered skirt Azan actual square on. And I'll show you this will literally indicate your side. Seem if you do another right angle and again use this spotting crosses a nice grid as a right angle right the way up. Do this all the way up. So it's completely parallel to your sense from it about we're going to label this s s feel side seem so this now becomes your hem line here. So what we need to do is actually find the length of this government. So we want to work from the waist band down to the him. So we're going to lay that against that Don't stretch out of place because that's when you , you know, get a bit of a miss miscalculation. So just lay it flat. A measure straight down lay as flat as you can. Just gonna straighten that lining underneath to get it flat. And again we working net. So we're working without the seam allowance at the moment. Measure right the way down the front of the gun. Right away to the him. About 61.5. This particular garment doesn't actually have a hem line on it. So which is going to keep that without seamounts on the bottom? But, you know, if you work in a different fabric, you can have the seam allowance on that. So this is 61.5. We're gonna go all the way up, do it along 61.5 and up this side seam 61 0.5. Now get your meat a ruler on. Join these lines here. These two marks together, I'm just going to do it this way so I can see what I'm doing. Yeah, you good. So, in fact, believe it or not, that is the pattern off half off the front of the skirt. We know that that was half of the hem Cirque conference, and then we're thinking Oh, okay, So what's going on with the top? How do we How do we know what measurement is? But obviously, we've got our measurement off the waistband. So if you give that a measure here along this waistband and then you find out the measurement here or it's about 35 35 So that's the whole of the front that we met again. We're working only front, only half of the front in the back. So we want to divide that by two. So that measurement here gather to 17 0.5 centimeters, marking centimeters again. You can just do it little indication of where you want that gathering to be. And there you go. That is actually the pattern off. Quite a complex looking gathered skirt. Don't forget to draw in your grain line and again you can use the print off that and there you have it. You can always add in the waistband afterwards, and as you can see, the waistband is actually a complete rectangle, so your waist bound would be quite a straightforward rectangle that would be 35 centimeters at the front and 35 centimeters at the back. Now, I just wanted to show you a slightly different idea off a very similar looking pattern. But instead of gathers on the top edge, this one actually has talks. And again, you don't wanna want pick these talks because you're thinking or, you know I want to get inside there, but I don't know where is. But again, something like this is really good, so you can see this strike going across it. It's a good indication that that is actually a completely straight line on that him using that stripe and also when the side seams joined, you can see there they join exactly a right angle to each other, so you know that that size seem there is going to be a right angle. If it was angled, the stripes would actually join and chevron at a slight angle. That kind of come in looking like this. If I was to add on to my sightseeing, but because they come in a completely right angle to my hem there, I know it's exactly the same as my side seem to my him so back onto where the waistband is and where it joins at the talks whose minutely from the front. So we know it's a straight line at the top because also, we can see cleverly this stripe running right at the top, which indicates to me that that is a completely straight line. So it's just a case of measuring again the hem of this. This is slightly narrower than this. So measuring the hem and finding the middle on, um, we get the data fresh bit of paper. So if we can assume that the top of this well as we know it is a completely straight line. So down here, if I was to added on, which is making a new top of this, remember, the other one was gathered. This is tucked So the bottom half the method is completely the same for this would almost be just like the top of the waistband on here. And I'm just going to find the measurement of just half off this government. Let me just measure this hem here measuring tape. So we're gonna measure along here again. Don't pull pull of what, 96 centimeters. So we want to find the middle of this. 90 96 I say 48 centimeters. 48 48 with my pen. 40 centimeters. Just a mark here. And that is where my side seam would be on this. This one down here on. It's just a case now, off, actually, just seeing what the depth off all of these pleats are in here. So you can put your measuring tape, actually, tuck it into one of these tux and see where the the depth of the pleat hits on. I can feel that that is actually indicated to me that the deepest part of that plea is coming up at four centimeters. So each one of these touch let's just check another one is four centimeters. So each one of these taxes four. So the way that this this actually looks again, quite straightforward. So we measure Let's measure from one of these points to this point, it's about 10.5, 10.5 on. We know that this tuck inside is four centimeters so into the deepest bit of that tuck is four centimeters, and then it has to come back out again to join to this point here. That's another four centimeters. So actually, what this pattern looks like if you drool in that I read that is one of thes tux. Just gonna do one mortars to show you. And then that is really how that continues on that line, it really is that simple. It's a straight line, like we can see with this print. So measure what the distances between the two tucks at 7.5. So that will stay flat and that it will go into your waistband. Here, news bits will go into your waist, man. Oh, sorry. That's my mistake, actually. Sorry. Ignore that. We need to talk on the other side. So it's another four centimeters. That one and another four sent me to that one. Ignore that. So that's my fault. So then to make it look like a symmetrical plate vote from that line there there is your It's called a box. Please, folks, Plate you got, um on. Then let's measure from that point to their, which is 7.5. So you go again from there. 7.5. So that sorry, it becomes your waist band, and there you want to repeat that process. So then you get a repeat process off all of your four centimeter. So when they're pleated up, when fabric, they actually, you know, complete the paper. It's absolutely fine. It's pleat up, and I look like that where shoes lay that like that. That's your police of your dress. It's exactly what is happening here. So actually, the pattern of for something like that is again, quite a straight line.
5. 5 How to draft a dart into your pattern : So we're going to take a pattern of a government with a dart in it and with a bit of shaping, take this T shirt, for instance. It has it has a bus stop quiet standard bust are there. I'm just going to tape that interest in case you can't see it. Actually, it's just, uh, white garments on this white paper. It's quite hard to see, but there is a buster that lies, something like that. I'm just going to make that quite clear, because obviously it's got bit of shaping in it. So you it looks like a flat garment, but it's not true to itself. So what you'll try and find is your manipulator out of shape. But you can see that there's his pocket of volume here that goes over the bus line, especially in women's wear. And you want to try and avoid, you know, stretching out of place or make your shoulder kind of come out of place. So we want to include that dark without unpick ing the garment. So the little trick that I do so I've already indicated here my center front lines. Just as you can see laying up my government. So it sits on my center front line, and I'm just going to show you really quickly Just going to trace my hem line in here and again. We'll make this all lovely and neat afterwards. This is my side seam of my garment and also my stitch line. So I know that that is actually where my liners. So here is the point of where it gets a little bit tricky. So just indicate a line here just to indicate the end of the dark. Ana, What we want to try and do is create this dark within our pattern as well. Um, so actually a lot off garments for Turness inside out, you can see that actually has the volume or for the dark inside, so you can actually see what's going on. So a good way to do is actually measure what's going on? So that's a two centimeter dark. So actually, on the end of that door, there's actually four sent to me to revolve. I'm going in there. We've got a two centimeter there and then two centimeters on the inside to create this pocket of volume. So let's just turn it back around the right way on. Let me get me back where I waas head. Ditto. Get my side seam laying nicely. Okay, So you can see because of this volume here. Actually, it's knocking off my center from because obviously if you we want to this is the zero point of our dot We want to add in some volume. You know, we want to get that center front line sitting back where it should be. A So bring that back down to where it waas. And actually, I quite it's good is use a pin just a standard pin just to kind of mark, actually, where the end of my daughter is all with your tracing, Will you just mark where the end of your daughters and you can mark that? Let line in by tracing through that line. So if we lift that off, actually, we've got the bottom. Oh! Oh, don't, Um oh, why did I do that? That should married back to that. Sorry. Just when my daughter Lima's on, What we want to do is actually add on that four sent me to dark. So we want we know that that is that's about 10 sent to me to length, and we know that this is going to be forced into me too dark. So actually, that same measurement we can create that in by I. We know that that's the size of that dark going in there. The other thing is, you can also pin in the hole there on actually Piver your bodice round so that that point becomes four centimeters up. Leave that point in there because that's the point that never moves. That's your zero point on. What we're doing is just doing some dark manipulation on this, then your four centimeters in there. This then becomes the end off your dark point Nancy or pivoting your bodies up there, and then you get your center front mark laying exactly on your center from point. So we created our door inside there. If it hasn't got the excess volume in there again, you can always, um, it's a good practice to you can always see sometimes where your if it's knocking your center front off, pivoting your garment round two where it naturally wants to sit. And that's often the volume that were kind of missing in there that have taken away But the good trick is to just put your pin in at your zero point of your dark like your most pointed bit of your dark, where the stitching finishes on pivoting your garment from nothing around that point. I know that this is four centimeters. So I've drafted my doll in him for centimeters because actually the middle of that, when that closes, there's the middle. When that gets stitched together, that's your two centimeters in your two cents meters. And that's the volume that we found inside that garment. So now we've pivoted this government are We've got zero point of our bust back on zero here on. We're going up there. So what we want to do now is re draft in the rest of our bodies. Lay that flat. This has an arm hole in. Just pinch away their sleeve and get it laying exactly where it wants to see here. Who wants to sit somewhere like that? I'm just gonna do this quickly to show you Let's go to the shoulder around the arm hole again. We're going on the stitch line because all the other details can be added in off to it. You're wrong Holland. A tiny little bit offside soon, which is going to go on this line here is the bottom of the color because with color we can draft afterwards, so they have it. So, actually, in fact, if I draw that in for you was my And here's my again, make sure it's all cross Check it back afterwards and then that is my garment with my dart in in and again, it's good practice to cut this out, put your wants and to me two seam allowance all the way around. If you cut this out, then stitched back up and actually see that it sits back to your garment there. The one good thing if because now we have a gap here, and we need to kind of join on this line on this one. We know because we can see on the inside, which is a good trick that the dark actually flaps downwards. So please, your paper. Let me just come up here. This is how you find the point off your dark is to actually physically please go to zero in here and make sure and you can trace through that line there you can see a dotted line on. Then you can draw in the rest of your dark, and that's how you find a point of your dark. And that's how you trace off a dark or shaping into a body. So the key point is this bus point here, you can either see the volume by turning the garment inside out, all feeling the impression. If it's got a lining in the garment, you can always feel the extra fabric sometimes on the inside, and give them a measure. And then you can put that that's 1/2 the dark measurement because it's folded. Don't forget, so that will be double on that edge. Work gets sewn to on. Then that will be. Two centimeters were turned into four, for example, or the other way is you can put a pin in and pivot it from zero on your boss point on, pivot it out and find where it naturally wants to sit and realign back onto your center front and they have it. Thank you very much.
6. 6 How to take a pattern of a frill: So we're going to be taking the pattern of something a little bit frilly, which actually looks quite complicated and so beautiful. And I don't want to unpick this dress on DSO When this dress hangs down, it creates his beautiful waterfall effect on day actually looks like something I couldn't possibly take the pan off without. I'm picking it, but actually I can because although this is stitched onto a base that's quite structured on when this neckline, which is a one shouldered dress, hangs, went naturally how it should it creates this beautiful flowing waterfall effect on again. It is all down to the fabric as well. So when you're copying something like this, um, a frail, for example, or gather depending on the fabric, it will actually look completely different in which fabric you you then re stitch it back up in something quite stiff. This will hold, you know, out very, very strong, something a lot softer, you know? Well, actually, kind of look a little bit limp. So actually, it's this kind of this double satin that's really kind of giving it. It's like, luxurious look and feel. So actually, take, let's try and see if we can see the patter of it's the same front and back which is going to take the pan off this top neckline frill Excuse my cans of food. I'm not feeling peckish. I'm going to use them as weights. Just you can use anything you've got in the house toe weight down. I don't want to pin this dress because it's so beautiful. I don't want to get any marks on the satin on. When you do put pins in such delicate fabrics, it doesn't mark. So the best thing to do is we're gonna just indicate here our shoulder line and that can kind of be our starting point. Any any markings or anything or stitch lines you've got on your pattern that can help you as a guide. Teoh lay a garment on to lie up so you can see here my stitch line on my shoulder. So I'm going to lay that on that line there is almost like my kind of net. That's when it line and I'm going to wait that down with a can of sweet corn so well, what we really want to do is manipulate this frill round so that this outside edge isn't frilly and three d because that's literally impossible Toe take a pattern like that. We want to manipulate this neckline round so the outside edge is laying as flat as we can get it. Make sure that that stays like that, and you can see this is now starting to stretch out. This neckline is actually becoming quite a lot more curved, and this is quite common in quite low frills. They actually are big circular shapes. Andi, Once they kind of come back to their natural form. That's when you get that outside edge looking lovely and frilly in Flutie because it's a lot wider than it actually should bay. So we're gonna just wait that one down there. And if you can't get it completely flat, you can always do sections of it a time. You can always kind of do one section. You move on to the next, so we're actually going to just take this a little bit slowly. So just gonna concentrate on this top thrill here. Excuse me? If you are feeling hungry while you're doing this, if you do have weights, brilliant s so we can see that this is here. This is my shoulder line. This red line here. So we're going to just get you tracing will on trace around the outside edge off this one here. Careful with your delicate fabric. If you do make any marks, a good thing to do is just steam your garment afterwards or press afterwards. It's amazing what bit of steam and he can do. Any marks should hopefully lift away. But do this under supervision. I don't want to get in trouble for anyone ruling anyone garments, you know, ask whoever's garment it is. You're taking the pattern over If it's all right to use as a template. Eso yet gonna just get this neckline gonna do this quite roughly. So I've gone quite far around the garment. I've kind of gone halfway. So then I want to kind of concentrate on this because I'm struggling to get this completely flat so we'll move this. We know we've got this area here, actually, as you can see, quite cleverly, the frill underneath it is actually exactly the same shape, but a bit longer. So after you've done this one, you don't have to take the pattern of the 2nd 1 you contest. Trace off the 1st 1 and extend that length and actually cheat or save yourself time. And that will be your second frill. They're going, you know, at least it's exactly the same pattern, and it'll flu exactly the same way we're gonna move on to the second half. Gonna just manipulate this round. Even Morse is quite a curve. A little number go right the way that they that I think that's just a bit pressed off place . Get that sitting. There you go. So well, carry on pricing that neckline round very carefully. Using your Tracy will on getting to the edge there on that will continue on the outside edge of this frill. Make sure that that's nice and that's gonna move out the way. Got that lovely and flat. Also, I did Here again. This can be rough on. You can work back into it afterwards. Andi, give that frill a measure on the outside agent. Just make sure it's measuring and you can't see anything at the moment. But let me just draw in my line here that I just made. Hager did it. Iss taking shape. It looks pretty fancy. That's my So you see, it's starting to take shape. It's my site. That was my side seam here. So this is my shoulder front shoulder on, then this over here, this small edge. This is actually the side seam that's actually there. Where it joins here is actually gotta zip in, not edge the And then this is the Mississippi end of the frill and then carries on around. But this is again my net edge. This is my city. So you can see that is actually the shape off this waterfall frill and then so that looks like a really, really circular neckline. This would be my neck line here on DSO when it actually is stitched onto its base. That isn't that curvy, really looks a lot more smooth. That's when the outside edge of that fruit Ben's background and you get that extra volume on the bottom. And then that's how you create a beautiful frill pattern. So for that frill underneath, it really is the same shape. But it would just be extending that length out there, and you know, you've got exactly the same shape, but a little bit longer, and that, sir, and that's how you create your lovely frill pattern
7. 7 How to take a pattern of a frill : So we're going to take the pattern of something with an elastic ated waste or something with elastic in it or something that's like, drawn in that you can manipulate back out because you can't possibly take a pattern of something like this flat because, you know, it's all rushed up. It's gathered and you can't quite see what is actually going on. So we're gonna take the pattern quickly off the back off this short here. So I've drafted out already some of the style lines off the flat lines that I can already see using my center. But we're going underneath the waste waistband. Andi, I've drawn in my crutch line here on my hem line here. So, actually, is this area. That's the problem. Not gonna worry too much about the waistband at the moment, because actually, if you can see you stretch this way, spend out to its maximum capacity, it actually is just a rectangular pattern. It's of really straightforward pattern peas just folded on that top edge on then, assuming hours added on the bottom edge and elastic ated added into it to make that drawn in. So that's actually a little bit. That's doing all the work. It's a very long rectangular pattern piece, but with a shorter elastic measurement in it. So that's it at its full capacity. And then that's it, with a shorter elastic measurement in it. And that's the bit that does all the pulling in. But what you need to make sure it's Once that and waistband is pulled out, your pattern is the same length as it. There's no point having a really gathered waistband on then really small pant, because it won't be doing anywhere. So the idea is that you get as much volume into the short or from the waist down as possible. As you can see here, if I pulled out that the fabric actually flattens out from that way, span down. And that's what gives you that extra volume on that movement around the waist area. Eso again. So I've got might have some one bit of my short already drafted out for you. So again, it's this area here that I'm trying to work out what's going on. So it really is a case of manipulating the elastic, getting your measuring tape, put it right on that center vaccine and again we're working Net measurements from seem to seem without seeming outside on at the moment. If you want to know about seven ounces, just refer back to Lesson one, and I drove my seam allowance on my pattern on a vest top. Or, if you want on overview off how to make patterns from scratch. Refer to my video pattern cutting for beginners on. It'll give you an overview off how to actually draft a full pattern with its semen answers and labeling on eso for now, which is gonna which wanna work out what this measurement is, actually, so get your measuring tape right on this centre back. Seem here right on, like right on that stitch line there, and it really is a case. Use both hands and pull that last account. You can see it's flattens out that fabric, and then we want to stretch their over. It's coming up to nearly 28 centimeters. There you could see which is hitting there on that side seem so that when it's laid out flat, it's going to be 28 centimeters, so we know that somewhere along here is going to be 28 centimeters. Where's my pen. Here we go. So we want to make a right angle. This is my grain line. This is my center back line. So why don't we draft out a line that's right, angled to my center back on. We know that that was 28 centimeters somewhere along this line here. So we know that that on the half it's only 1/2 a the moment because we've got, you know, one. This is my left butt cheek. Uh, we know that somewhere here, once it's gathered, that will fit onto 28 centimeters. So we've got the top off by side seam on the hem here so we can now lay that back on there , and that should hopefully join up. Who use my dog under my table having a bit of a grunt. Stressful life being a dog. So we want to move, draw that line in there and again, you can go back and measure everything. That's my size. Soon there. So let's give that measure so again, about 28 cents meets is Let's make that a really nice line, one all of our lives to be very nice and smooth. Let's give that a bit off a measure here. 20 it should be or 28th and a couple of millimeters. So that actually is within our guidelines on again. The idea is that you can mock this up in a similar fabric and get an idea of what it's actually doing, but that when it's flat, is actually the pattern off the back leg. Ah, half off my short. So once that's gathered up and you put your elastic on your waistband on your flat pattern there, once that's gathered up, that will fit into your waste management is that's how you take on elastic measurement. Thank you.
8. 8 Comparing your bodice shape back to your bodice block: so I'm going to show you how to compare your garment back to your basic block. I was quite good. Practice when we're taking patterns off existing garments is sometimes they actually cut. Could be a little bit inaccurate, especially with vintage garments. If you've picked up vintage garments along the way, this certainly isn't vintage. This is just my plane T. But I'm just going to show you, for example. But sometimes on these vintage guns or older comments, sometimes they could have been a bit manipulated or altered along the way, stretched out of place on actually the sizing back way back when I actually was a lot lot different to how it is now nowadays. So a lot of the vintage garments particularly have got very, very different measurements of sometimes. If you're taking a part of a government, is it when you stitch it back up, it actually might not fit very well, so it's really good to compare your garments back to your basic blocks. If you are unsure what block is or how to develop a block, I do actually have a separate course on how to develop a block or slope of from scratch. This is my basic body block, front and back just hope off each bodies, assuming that were symmetrical on it really is just a basic grid and a basic outline off our particular body measurements that we need. This is just a very general UK size eight body block, net two or measurement. But you can develop blocks that are particular to your own body, if you like. Again, if you're unsure about this, refer back to my block and Sloper course on, develop your block or but I'm gonna use these ones that we've got here. So I am just gonna use this as an example. This is just a plain T shirt. I just took a really quick pattern from again. You can see that I've just worked on half the back on half the front, assuming it's a cement trouble, Garman. I've just drawn the line right down front. But you can trace these off afterwards and fold them or over on the centre front incentive back lines and get your Smith for garment. So I've just traced really quickly and roughly around these outside edges to get my shape. But after I've done that, I'm not actually sure. I've just picked this top up that this government actually gonna fit back to my measurements on these blocks are quite unique. They do have darts in it, so sometimes they are a lot different to the actual gun we've picked up. For instance, this T shirt is stretchy doesn't actually have any shaping it. But the thing that I'm most interested in about is getting my neck and arm and shoulder alignment because that's really if I if I had steps up, back up on my shoulders all out, it completely throws off the rest of my my balance. Sometimes, you know, within design necklines change lengths of garments change. We know that it's all in the design, but the basic structure of where my neckline is when my shoulders is that's a really that's never going to change. That's always going to my shoulders, always going to sit in that position. So I'm just gonna work on the front for now. Also that we just flip that over losing that as my waist line to line that up for my waist down here. So lined up on my son from this green line is going to be my new next right. And so the neckline actually is dropped on that on the T shirt. That's okay, because that's the design. This is my new shoulder now coming in. So that's a really important measurement. This showed this neckline. It's fine, you know, we've got a slightly lower neckline and that's all in the design, so I'm not too worried about that. But that shoulder neckline there, that's a look. He really important new lines there that we are really interested in. Which means if I didn't have that new shoulder in, it would be a little bit too long in my higher shoulder point there. Eso using that as my new line, this bill now the the shape of my T shirt running through here cause we like the neckline off my T shirt. We don't want that to change, but this is now. Why new shoulder, this one here So this one can disappear, and then we just want to grow that line up to that shoulder. So that's now I know that that shoulder is always going to sit in line with my actual shoulder on. Then we'll do exactly the same with the back. That's my back, Borders. Just flip that over cause I've just got it upside down and you can see that that the on the that is my neckline I've got a dart in here, So mark your dar put your finger on it or pin smart where that dot is, we don't want the dark. It hasn't got a dart in the T shirt. Who's going appear that that out has joined that one, too. See, what I did was join that door up to that point there where that closes and then that lie measurement. We don't want to trace around exactly the block because the idea is we want the original essence off the T shirt that I like. So it's just getting those those points on my body or things that will never change. You know, like my shoulder, for instance. So what we want to do is just make sure now my new points. Okay, Matt Sharp. So how that measures something like 8.5 says my new shoulder here 8.5, actually, quite a bit. That's my new neckline. It is a little bit lower on then what we need to do is actually make myself a new arm hole there on. Take that around. So actually, that doesn't exist anymore. On again. Cross check it back to the government, wouldn't we? Don't want to change it too much that it doesn't look like the government that you liked in the first place. But the key things are actually, you know, joining up these points on now I know. I know that that shoulder is going to sit on my shoulder again. That would be a bit too long in my body because I know that this garment that my block fits back to me. So though I've got the key essence off my block off my garment Sorry off my design. I know that actually, when I saw it up, that world will sit in my worst. It does differ slightly to here, but I've customized it to fit back to me. And technically, it should fit me perfectly.
9. 9 Taking a pattern of an easy sleeve : So I'm going to show you how to draft out a pattern piece that you can lie flat, but also it wraps around the body like the sleeve of his T shirt. You're probably thinking, How can I take the pattern of this? Because there's only one seeming it down the inside seam of your arm on its tubular, Really, It wraps around it. You know, when it's on the body, it's three D. So how can I take the pattern off something that would wrap around the body? Andi again, It's actually pretty straightforward. You can see already. I've kind of if you lay that flat of almost kind of already got half the garment here, this is the inside seen. This is in C, my stitch line here so we can see that that is our net line. And then I've actually got quite a nice little flat line there that you can see. It's going to leave me quite a nice straight lines to draft that line in here. What we want to do is just square off 90 degrees to that angle and that that will give you the cuff. That's the bottom of the sleeve So line this line up here. I just need a little bit more length in my line here. Okay, So we want to do is going to do it in two halfs really is the best way to do it. So line up the bottom of your sleeve. Here, pin that on line that up to that net line there and again. This is Jersey, so it can manipulate ever so slightly. But don't you that what you don't want to do is stretch it out of place. It's just pin on and as many pins as you want to bet again. Don't ruin any garments by doing this. I don't wanna have any upsets. Pin that on. See a nice curve around the arm hole taking shape. So keep that paper nice and flat. You can always use any weights that you've got in the house. Bag of sugar. Whatever you need. Teoh, Wait that down. So we've already got our outside edge here of our sleeve. You can see that's the outside edge here, off the tee shirt already forming your straight line on that will eventually fingers crossed actors Your grain line which will indicate the direction off the fabric so you can see hit. My stitch line is on my outside, dead here. So again, just roughly mark, but go back into it. Make nice straight lines. Make sure all of the's lines match up there. Just make a little point. That's your underarm point. And then mark there, the top of the sleeve, and what you want to do is get your tracing will just trace, and that's sleep on. Nice. Nice curve underneath like that. Take a pins out very carefully. Sure you don't drop today, and then what you'll find when you take that away. Draw that line to see a nice of front. They're nice curve of your sleeve, starting to take shape. So basically the other side, it's really quite the same. So you go pin it on again. This is your hem line here. And then we want to put this and up here again on your on. Jerome. Very lucky on this to show I can see where my stitch line is sitting right here, so that indicates the net edge off my patterns will put in all the details on the seam allowances afterwards, so that's pinned like that again. Just mark your underarm point here. We already know the top of us. Leave. This is again the inside edge of my sleeve. And then get your tracing will. This now becomes the back off my sleeve. Head here to get a nice curve on that. Take these pins out very carefully on damage, anything, and you won't be able to see that. But when I draw this Linus line in see that lovely shape take place off that sleeve. Isn't that beautiful? See, there you go. You've got what a lovely sleazy but again go back into your sleeve. Make sure all this seem there wants to stitch up to this one here to make it your sleeve. Eso You want to make sure all your lines match up and also match up to your body's block on your body shape that you took before. So there you go. There's a sleeve pattern. Draft it out for you to three d to two D
10. 10 Taking a pattern by draping fabric on to the garment Part 1: so I'm going to show you a slightly different way of taking a pattern from an existing garment. I'm going to use my husband's jacket, for example. It's a menswear jacket, but you can use this idea on any garment that I can't really be laid flat. For instance, something like this. A jacket that's got quite a lot off padding in it. It's got a shoulder pad. It's quite thick. You can't really pin it down on. The board has got quite off structure in it, but we want to take the pattern off this garment. This is quite a different way of working but quiet, fun, accurate, way working. This can be used for all the time. All the garments that you do you can mold onto the actual manic in itself. There's no rules on about how you take the pattern, but this particular method is quite good for something that can't be broken down. You don't want want pin it and it's got quite a structure in it, and you can't, you know, really feel what's kind of going on. So before that, if you need just a bit of muslin or lightweight calico or something, that's not going to really kind of stretch a minute. Pillay Out of out of shape. I'm just going toe work on just one part of the garment. But this would be the same process that would go throughout the whole entire garment, even working with shapes that go around the body. I'm just gonna work on this half of the bodies. So what we want to do first, just spread that out just so we can see what's going on. I'm gonna take some lines on it, not only to show you easier what's going on, but actually because of this, the fabric, this tweet it's quite hard to see what's actually going on. So I'm going just for me tape on my shoulder line there. So it's quite a clear indication of what's going on Onda again. I don't want to mark my gun, and that's why I use this tape because it could be taken off quite easily. Gonna mark on where the color is. This tape is again quite good, because once you puts anything over it, this tape you can see through the fabric, so that indicates where my color is on Then, where my shoulder line. Is that so? I'm just taping some key areas because what we're going to do, actually is put this calico on top of this garment. So when you with a fabric like this, that's got quite you can't really see what's going on with the print and everything, it's quite clear what's going on. So I'm going to mark on things like where the pocket is. That's where it starts, and that's where it finishes. Something like That's the bottom of my pocket on. Then I've got another book it down here. Go pocket there. So I'm gonna mark that on or perfect little bit of tape size there. And actually I've got again. You can't see it because a lot of these garments as well with the fabric and stuff a lot off the details get a bit lost in the print. But actually, he's got a bit of shaping through, and I know this is a men's jacket. Apologies. It's on a woman's stand. There is a mention also has got slightly a bit of shaping through here, and I do have a dark and was really good. Thio Thio Note. Before you start taking a part of it is actually if we can see how much volume we've got actually going that dot and it would just give us an indication I'll show you way. Get going. How much fabric? So much I can feel inside. There is no a lot off fabric. You can feel that There's like a little bit of an indentation of where the fabrics been folded Aunt stitched onto the door. So actually, I can feel inside that some governments you can see inside and you can see the volume inside a garment. And I'll show you what I mean on this. Actually, this is my T shirt that I had earlier, which has, um, a dart in it. But if you look inside, you can actually see the amount of volume that we've got taken through that dark there. So this works for all different kinds of garments. So just for this jacket, I've actually only got about one centimeter dart, which actually, when you stitch it together, it's two centimeters. So I'm just gonna note that down as being two centimeters, So I'm gonna just mark on where my dark point is, So it stops stitching around about there, And I'm gonna just place that along the way along that line there a little bit more. It goes into that that pocket said, That's where my dart is going to bay. Okay, so one other really good point for this jacket, just particularly is to mark on anything like my brake line. And my brake line is that fold of that color where that wants to naturally come over. And that's quite good marking toe have on because that will show you, um, where you're star line of your lapel once Teoh wants to fall, so that will go out there. That's that fold line there. So it's not actually a seam or anything, but it's just a good and and that really just based on the fact that that was a good crease line in the fabric, it is going to extend that down a little bit more now. I know where my center front is of this government, because it's where these buttons butternut but something like the back if we were to take the back, actually, that has got a stitch line running right the way down the bat. But if that didn't have a stitch line in the really good thing to do. If you want to take part of this is find where the middle of this where it would be measuring exactly in the middle, off the shoulders, the underarm, the waste in the hip. Find the center back line and just again mark on with tape your center back line and you can take them the pattern off 1/2 of it. So when you come to take the pattern of the other half, it's exactly the same. You can just fold your pattern in half, so things that aren't clearly indicated like center front and center backs, which are very, very key points of interest off our key to just mark on something. That is, if you've got a light fabric again, you can use this this tape or you can use a ribbon. Or if you've got something that you don't mind marks on, you can pay on. But I wouldn't advise. I don't want people, um, saying that they've got panel over their garments. Eso what you want to start off with is a bit off this fabric. Andi, again using a good indication, is using actually the stripe off the fabric or the print of of her because it it's a good indication of your grain line because you're great night indicates the direction of the fabric. Andi, which angle your particular government is going to sitter. We're just going to start by get the whole length off this piece that we're going to be taking a pattern off. So I'm going to pin that on on. She's got grab a few pins and stop pinning around the shape. So I'm gonna stop pinning yourself one of these handle pin cushions. Stop pinning on this shape around here, says my collar. And again, this is a really good mess method for things that you just are thick fabric that you can't pin down. This particular jacket's got a shoulder pad in it so I can lay it flat. I can't get my tracing well through it because I can't get it through the shoulder. Um, but yeah, things This is quite good for outerwear. Actually, this method, things that are just a little bit heavier, Um, and also the other day I did like a bomb
11. 11 Taking a pattern by draping fabric on to the garment Part 2: jacket pattern like this because it was quite padded and full on it was just too thick to even see what was happening. S Oh, yeah, it's quite good for anything that's got volume or a bit more three D or something that you know doesn't naturally want to lie flat. So again used the grain of your fabric, which is the the salvage, which is the edge of the fabric. That line there, that will be the line that runs exactly down your grain. And you can use the print for this one the tweet to get your You're the direction of the fabric. Exactly right. And you could manipulate trying it. This is flatters as possible doing this quite roughly. But you can take this much time as you need to make sure you don't pool of fabric underneath. Make sure is late quite flat. No, I'm just gonna if fabric because these things like this, you do have armholes, so it's quite hard to get full at fabric around a shape so you can just trim. Don't cut yourself short, But things like this I wanted this curve under my arm hole on. This is actually too tight, so I'm just nipped a little bit in so you can create an extra bit of movement around the arm hole going under here. Just gonna do it again here. Measurements too tight to get under here. I want to get right under this arm hole here. By that I know I can just see where that's going Round. So remember I had a dark here, actually. So this is the top of my dark point here, and I had a little bit of volume. I think I can't really calculated two centimeters, um, volume going into that dark, so pin along there where it's flat on that point and I'm going to grab in two centimeters volume on that point and pin that there because that's how much I could feel earlier that was going in. And it's going to go back up to that zero point so you can always pin that little dark away on the area again. Garments they will, very some won't have darts in the metal. Some will have bigger darts, so you can always again you can see, even if you can't feel the amount of fabric that's gone into the volume inside, you can feel with a fabric manipulated round. So then it naturally you can see now it wants to lay lovely a flat on again, using the grain of the fabric I can actually cheat and see. Actually, that's running. Now, the grain of this fabric is running exactly in line with the tweet of this jacket. So I know as a guide that I'm pretty on point. So I'm gonna go around to this side seam here on pin it all the way down, and you can see Look, my my tape is shining through. Without that, I would kind of be a bit lost us to wear my details in my pockets and things like that have gone That's coming down here. Um, and actually, this I've got a pocket here, and my dark does not carry down through the bottom of my jacket. So we know that there's no pocket of volume here, so just do a little nip here, and actually oops, This will all actually disappear because this is actually flat underneath. And your see, when this gets flattened out that this actually guess hidden and lost in the volume. So that actually is flat, Hear a pin that away Just doing it again. All these garments. Really very It's gonna pin this around Where all way going to? Just There's a seam under here. It's quite hard to see, but I Schiller show you. So I have pin that what I think is quite flat on that government there to the other thing we can't It is a lot of flappy fabric hanging around. Just trim that off. Don't trim. Try not to got anything that weaken Trimble this He's flappy of itself, so they know it all way on now. What we want to do is actually mark up what we've actually pinned on. So get something, get a fine pen or chalk. I'm going to just do it in quite big mark repentance to show you. But it's better to get something a bit fine or something like chalk so you can get a better idea of what's going on. Just gonna make that bit flatter because I know. Yeah, so bit better. Hang on. Yeah. Make sure you don't pull anything underneath because you'll get a quite distorted shape then. So, using your pen, you want her, then mark on a love your lines that you've taken that you've pinned on his my arm hole around here. Lift up up There you go again. It's quite a rough at this point because we're gonna make it all lovely and beautiful and pretty afterwards, it's my front arm hole going in. I'm just gonna live that of it because it's a bit high. There is quite nice nice coat around here. So you good Is my side seem going in here? What? The way down here? Okay, right. So where it gets interesting, but my pocket going across here And you remember the dark says my zero point of my dark Going a little, a little bit of shaping to mark on either side of that dark because that will be the bit that gets stitched away and goes inside. Do mark on that one as well. What you'll find is actually like I say, because that stitches into a pocket that actually doesn't need to be there anymore, because I've got a seam line down here and I'll show you what happens when I take it apart . So let's draw on my hem on like a say you could do this on any Goldman you like. Here's my chest pocket. Any guy are my break. Klein was gonna put one more pin in here to get a bit more accurate. So this is a really good idea of as well. This these lines is getting all your internal seem lines or anything going on within your pattern piece, we'll call. Yeah, it's really good idea to indicate pockets, darts. Make sure you get an Acura. You get a nice little lapel going on there. You see, it's starting to take shape. And then here we are. Is the front off my jacket there? Don't figure I got two buttons going on here so you can actually feel I can feel where the middle of one of the buttons is, and then I can feel with the other. And that will actually indicate my center from because that the jacket raps over and joins at the butter that will indicate my center from So there you go. There you have it molding on a stand, and this method you can use for anything, particularly things like sleeves, because you could get calico and wrap it round and pin it right away. around a sleeve. You know, if you've got, like, a big, chunky sleeve or sign with a big shoulder pads, you could like, molds the fabric over the top. Replicate exactly what's going on on the government, whether it's got darts or tux. Do that with your calico or Muslims, or whatever the fabric is you're using on bold around a pin it on and you get an accurate reading. And when you take that off and lift that off, hopefully you get a really good idea of. Actually what's going on underneath. Joined me and in excess in on. We'll see it flat and you'll see it starts taking shape.
12. 12 Transferring your draping on to a flat pattern : Welcome back, guys. So, as you can see, I now have what I had pinned onto the jacket flats. With all my markings on you can see, I've still got my dark pinned in just to show you, I've literally lifted it straight from the jacket. So next thing to do is we're actually just gonna un pin this dart here to lay it completely out flat because we want to take this pattern exactly like it is on. If you remember, the jacket didn't actually have a dart through here. It only had one through here until the pocket. So we're going to do a little trick with this here on day. You'll see what happens in a minute. So, um, this is my center from where the buttons are because with a jacket that sent the buttons on a jacket particularly or where it wraps over and that usually indicates the center from again. This is all a very rough guide. This congee transferred onto any garment. So all the measurements, everything, they're not set there. Very. You know, they can be manipulated a little bit. You can twist them around or change them to fit your body. measurements. It's just ah, nice way of showing you how to take a pattern. So I've just drawn a straight line there on going to mark that cf center front on going to move my bit of calico onto that line there. The selvage, the edge of my fabric is another good guide to indicate my straight line on the grain line of the fabric. Andi, I want my center front line to sit where my two buttons are. And if you can't see where it is, it's actually underneath my fabric, sitting somewhere like that so you can see there. It's roughly in line there with my buttons, and that's just a really good starting point. If you've got anything, you want to take a pattern off, Find a center front. Well, the center back or a good point of of Ah, measuring on. Uh, then go from there. So we're just gonna pin this biff fabric on? I assure you, this is just my red pen on my fingers. It looks like I've cut myself. I haven't It's just me showing right. So I'm gonna We've pin that on like that and you can see where I've got my chest pocket the brake line of my jacket and I've indicated everything I want to indicate on my jacket. So far, if you've got something a bit more complicated, it's just really key to mark everything on. Because once you've lifted this off, it's near impossible to get exactly back as you wanted it. If you've got different seem lines that come down or anything like that, it's really good to just mark on any any points of interest that you think might get lost in translation. So again, with your trusty tracing will, we're quite literally going to trace over every line. What we say again, this is all quite rough, you know, a rough guide. And then afterwards that's when you can go back into it. Onda Um Okay, Onda make everything a bit more perfect and all the lines join up. So which is marking it very roughly. As my chest point the Make sure you're not for you internal lines. My side seam would make sure that lays flat running down there. That was my pocket. Did I do that already? Maybe there's my buttons. I know my center answer is gonna want where my buttons are is my lapel Talk to squeaky? Yes, my Oh, yeah, on my it's a little bit rough. I've done this rush, but you can make yours look more beautiful in line as my shoulder there on my arm hole coming something like that. And this is the same process that you do for all of the different pieces that you can see would join up And then it's just so so key that you then just work back into the pieces to make sure all the seems that would get stitched together All marry back heart Let the shoulders, the side seams, the darks, etcetera. So I have traced off. So what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna just mark that on really roughly so you can see where we're going. So that was my brake line. Hey, Good. That's my lapel. Found here on the rap off. My jacket is going to be a parallel to my center front. We're gonna draw nice line straight line down there. Then I've got a nice curve here on my hem point of this particular pace and I'll show you the little trick with the extra piece. That was my bust. So I Puckett went something with through like that got my side, same in and again, I'm using my greatest square because that's just how I got talk Teoh pattern cut. But if you've got a pattern master or any kind of rula, I used to use that to get in or your lovely curves new shapes again, he said. I'm just doing is quite rough, but it's absolutely key that you go back in on, then double check. Everything's much so you can see my jacket front is actually start to shake shape. So before, I wouldn't be able to get this on a, um, flat, I'll show you what it looks like flat this jacket on because it's quite thick. It's just so difficult to try and flatten this out to try and get a treating will again through there. I mean, you just won't make any marks underneath because it's got pad again. It's got shoulder pads, got canvas in it. Something like this is really, really tricky to take a pattern off. So it's It's just really good practice Teoh to to do this kind of taking the pattern like that and it makes it it does make such a difference. You get much more accurate reading so you can see that it you can work in quite a lot of different ways. So that's the front of that jacket. So that's pretty much one of the pieces done. And this would be the same method for all of the other pattern pieces. And I'm just going to show you this last trick in the end, because if you remember my jacket, actually, it doesn't have a dark running through the bottom here is completely flat. He only had a dark running through this chest piece here, and it stopped where the pocket opening is. So we don't need to stitch this up, and actually, this piece becomes completely void. Remember, I pinned that away. So actually, this is what happens on the pattern you cut up here because we want to eliminate this piece here. I mean, I'm just working net on. These pieces now on the pocket will eventually have an opening. So this needs to be a scene anyway. So you just cut down there, then he's going to use as a white. Just get some tape on hair. This seem now becomes completely void. So that becomes the bottom off your jacket, all in one piece. I'm just gonna put that over there to set a weight. But you can see now what's happened, so that will eventually close up as a dot this one here that will eventually close up to the door. And that pocket end will end up there and then here becomes completely flat. That's my little trick on then, after after you've traced these pieces, this is when you can add it'll the details. This is when you can go back in a measure. It'll on add in all your pocket details here. So I've measured here the bottom of the pocket. But I want to stop putting in my pocket. Details on that went. That's when you can start, then adding in all your details and all your tricks, I hope you've enjoyed this draping section off the off the course. It's a really core way of taking patterns. Andi, I hope you've enjoyed watching me Do, taking patterns of garments Onda and good luck creating your own wardrobe
Caroline Barulis PurePatternCutting, Pattern Cutter & Maker
