Pattern cutting and making - sewing hi-low dress like a pro

1. Introduction: you know, we made the game with me. How many of you wants to make an evening dress like a pro? On this course, we will learn how to make a simple, compelled dress with couture techniques. You don't have to worry. You can use any sewing machine you have at home to make this go. Celtics. Even though you don't have any surgery mission at home, you can still make this cocktail dress from scratch to address. Now let's check what we will learn on this course. We we learned the knowledge off the tools we need, both for pattern making and suing. We will also learn how to make sure our own bodies. Then we will learn the knowledge off the types off every especially for Worf unfair breaks so you can re create your own evening dress. We will also learn the logic to moving the darts. Then we learned the knowledge about how to lay out our pattern based on the green lines and the fabrics. Then, obviously, we will learn how to draft this style from scratch. Also, we will learn how to suit the style with professional technique. Not to forget. We will learn how to grading but in easy away lefties on this course this course best for beginner. Especially if we want to challenge yourself. Ensuing an evening dress in provisional way. So what are you waiting for? And will now and see you on the inside? Bye bye. 2. Tools for pattern making & cutting: Hello. In this video, we are going toe. Prepare the equal one for pattern making Health Essential tools you need are one. A notebook. A notebook to write down all the informations, including the measurement and other informations to measuring tape. Tree paper Britain's In this case, you can use toted paper or plain paper for sharp pencil. Or you can also use mechanic pencil. Five. A Razor six. D 80 are 100 centimeters. Ruler. Sometimes you also need shorter size as well. Seven. Curve Ruler for the kerf ruler. In my opinion, the most important careful er unit is for next I'm whole and hip. Eight. Dressing well. This tracing will not only to trace your pattern into the favorite played around, but also helped to copy the pattern side by side. Nine. Caesar, if possible. Differ. You see sir from fabric paper and glue these tapes to make your Caesar more long, less thing. 10. Carbon paper. This is to retrace your pattern on paper and to the fabrics. 11 at passive tape to attach the Peyton later run. 12. This is the last is calculator. This is to calculate your measurement into the pattern, so that's the most 12 essential tools unit for making a pattern 3. Sewing tools: 14 important tools you know, forces First, we have carbon paper to trace the pattern into the government, then dressing will to trace the pattern and talk to mark the government. This is actually a replacement tools for tracing from paper to government. Next, we need pins to secure the patents and the government when sewing, and then we need cutting table. Or you can also cut on your floor. But make sure your floor is clean, otherwise it stains your fabric. Then we need Ceasar. I normally has small and Big Caesar's. This just about preference, and we also need tread nippers. This also optional. You can just use your Caesar to cut the trend. Then obviously, we need the needle, hand sewing needle and Machinea those. Next we need Sim Reaper, just in case you need to reap some part while suing. Then Trent, usually same color grading from your family. Then I running board. This is important, especially when you want to sue an evening gown and we need irony. You can use your home Byron. That is enough. And obviously we need the sewing machine, in my opinion, if possible, When you shoe an evening dress please use the more daring sewing machine. The reason is the oil from the classic sewing machine usually goes out and it stains on your fabrics, especially if you work with expensive fabric. You will feel regret. If the stains wouldn't go out the last. We will use mannequin toe. Make sure and showing off your creation. Well, at least that's for me. For the showing off part. That's all the tools you need for suing. Now let's go to draft the pattern first. See you. 4. How to measure: on this video, I will share you to frictionless off size 42. You can use this as your basement human to making a pattern or for just into your own size later. Run. Let's start with chest a conference to make sure a test a conference. Make sure all around your upper bus we have here 84 centimeter. Next we go lower to measure Pastor conference. We have here 88 centimeter. Then we go to measure Weisser Conference To find the wiser conference, find your smallest part off your body. We have here 68 centimeter. As for the hip, it's the largest part off your body. We have here 94 centimeter. Now we go up to make sure the past high We have here 26.5 centimeter. Then we need to make sure breast distance we have here 18 centimeter. Next we make sure back twice length to make sure back wise length. We need to start from the nip off your shoulder near your neck didn't go down until your wife's lying. We have here 42.7 sent to me there. Then we move to make your friend y sling same s the big part. Start from the name off your shoulder near your neck, then go down to your wife's line. We have here 44.7 centimeter. Next step we may share back with Make sure from one under arm to another. We have here 36.9 centimeter. Then we go to measure shoulder with to make sure shoulder with. Make sure from the tip off your shoulder to another shoulder. We have here 38.9 centimeter. Now we go low. Work to make sure elbow length with slightly bent position may share from the deep off the shoulder to the elbow we have here 33.3 centimeter, not the step. Make sure sleep flings still with slightly bent position. Make sure from the tape off your shoulder to the D sailing we have here 60 centimeter. Then we need to make your dress length. Miss your drown from shoulder to need passing through your wife's lying. We have here 99 centimeter. How about this? Skirt length To make sure this skirt length, make sure from your wife's lying to your decided Ling we have here 59 centimeter, then we make sure knee length. We have here 56.5 centimeter. The last we make sure the chose the length we have here 101 sent to meet there. 5. Fabric knowledge: only scores. We will learn the favorite character briefly that we can use for making an evening dress. In this case, we differ fabrics from the weight and the character. First category is silky light. We have here broke eight C phone and silk. As for the broke eight, this decorated fabric is made from noted look and twisted Trent. It is used as a trimming on items such as stresses and bridal wear, then issue phone. She even is an openly of sheer silk fabric. She phone is made from tightly twisted yarns. It drops well and is commonly used for evening wear, blouses and live injury, then silk silk. It's a soft and lightweight fabrics. This fabric has the laster and drape off silk. It is often used for dresses. Next is silky heavy. The fabrics in this category are file, Foot said in and viscose. As for the file foot, it is a wolf in fabric with a silky pau or NEP underwrite site. The pile for us a smoothie. One way it is used for evening there next is sucked in. This fabric has a smooth let's just her face and is available in different weights. It's generally used for dresses, jacket and evening Where then we have fiscal. This fabric has placed finish. It wears well and is mainly used for soft process. Then we go to light. Steve, we have here. Do Beaune Dupe Ian are made from double strength off silk, the edge done to fray. It is generally used for dresses. Jake. It's evening and bridal wear. Then we have organza. This is a very fine, transparent Steve playing with fabric. It is often used for dreams, coolers, facings and fabric flowers, as well as for evening and bridal wear. Next ist liquid. This is a synthetic metallic fabric with a very shine a corrective services. It is soft to handle and drabs well. It issues mainly for evening wear. The last category is heavy, Steve. The fabrics on this category are righteous. Taffeta and jack are. As for the Duchess, it is a medium week plane with silk fabric with fine ribbing and a laster finish. It is used mainly for dresses and bright the where then taffeta taffeta is a smooth chris. Then we have silk fabric. Taffeta has finally being an illustrious fitness. It creases easily. It is used mainly for braises Jake it Bridal and evening where then we have Jaguar. This fabric has a pattern. Finished that IHS re first on the wrong site. The pattern may ferry from firebreak to fabric. Jaguar is often used for making shoots. Jake it and skirt. This forecast agrees. You get you can use as your base to find your desired February to make an evening dress. 6. Darts logic: to understand how to move the dark's. You can follow this tree steps. The first steps are one tracing the charter better then marked the center for my start. After you marked level the dark legs s A N B, then draws less line from center front wise to past boy. Next, the second step is slashed. The pattern from Center for Unwise the last boy and the last steps are one. Close the dark legs a NB, then tape it to place the pattern on paper and retrace it. Tree marked the new center dark point 58 inch from bass Boy didn't draw the dark legs too dark point. To make sure your guard is correct, you can try on Muslim, but before it you need to add seems on your pattern. To complete a pattern. You can use your general pattern informations for guidance, if necessary. The best fit that unfold for full front and for health. Muslim AC, A one inch extension at front got back petal to complete the designed stitch and pressed the Muslim. In this case, you don't have to stay, then placed on form or model for a testy 7. Pattern layout & grainlines: the pattern. Green lines is a line ground on each pattern piece from end to end to indicate how the pattern should align with the languages grain off the fabric. We have two methods for placing the pattern on the fabric based on the bed and green line number one for the girl Green lines Vertical green lines are drawn. Parole to center for governments. Cut on straight green, second by your screen lines by your screen. Lines are drawn at an angle to center 45 degree angle for true by years. For governments cut on the bias. The last horizontal grid lines horizontal green lines are drawn at right angles to center for governments got on course wise grade. 8. Patternmaking ( top ): before we start. Please note this button based on size 42. Let's start from the bake part. First draw a square size 41 times 21 centimeter for each in orbited bodies or size 43 times 21 centimeter for western bodies. Then let's move to draw the neckline from point A to B. One more fried 11 centimeter, then from point B one to B two, move down one centimeter. Next, from poignancy to a one well fried to sentiment there and the last from Point B to to A to connect with the Careful there, this is the neckline. Next, let's make the shoulder light. Start from point B one to B tree. Move right seven sent to me there, then from point B, treat to L one. Move down 3.5 centimeter, then connect pointy to two l one after debt from point L one to l two more fright. 1.5 centimeter, then drove. Unusual the line from foreign Bitter to L two. Then let's make the arm hole start from Point B two s one most down 22.5 centimeter, Then connect with careful er point L 22 s one. As for decide seem, start from point B to did one most left, two centimeter. Then connect with careful er point s one to do Well, now let's make the green light. The green line is perpendicular to waistline, please Remember, the Green Line indicates that the pattern must be placed in one direction only. Then connect boy in a one to be to two l 22 x 12 d one. This is the top big part. Now let's draw the top for park. We start with the square size 43 times 25 centimeter for Asian or bodies or size 45 times 25 centimeter forward still bodies then mark the past point from point A most left 10.5 centimeter, then most down 25 centimeter. This is the past point. Next we make the neckline start from point A to a one most down nine centimeter, then still from point A most left 11 centimeter to point B one and then from point B one to B two, most down, once intimate there, this is the neckline. Then we make the shoulder line from point B one to B tree. Most left seven centimeter. Next from point B. Tree toe l one most down 3.5 centimeter and connect point me to toe l one from point Ellen to l two. Wolf, right? 1.5 centimeter. This is the shoulder line. Now let's draw the arm hole from point B two s one most down 19 centimeter, then from point L 22 s one. Connect with the care, Fuller. Now we have the neckline. Sure, the line and the arm hole. Next we make the side dark from point s one toe s to most down 3.5 centimeter. Then drove straight line from point s 22 bass point and from Point s two to s tree Moved down 4.5 centimeter again. Draw a straight line from point History to bask Boy. Now we have decided that next we make the y start, stop from point C toe are most left 9.5 centimeter, then from point aren't toe are one most up 15 centimeter and then still from point are more fried. Two centimeter toe point C one, then on point are too easy to most left. Two centimeter, then connect boy, see 12 are one to see to This is the wife Start now let's make the princess line from point l two to l tree most down nine centimeter didn't connect with the careful er foreign l tree toe are one passing true pass point. Next step is closing the side Start from point s tree toe s to most up closed and tape this part Then on the site panel smooth the pattern on point l tree two bass point toe are one to see to then mark and notch on bass Boyne Also on point are one mark a notch and then reshape the side part by moving right to centimeter or indeed to the one next mark Dissenter front thence less from point C one toe are one these you can do also while you close the side start especially if you drove your paper Your pattern on pepper Next mark A knowledge on bass boy also mark a nudge on point are one Then we drove the green line. It's perpendicular twice line Here are the two panels sent the front and site for this is the princess same style to let you know you can also make like, normal basic blow pattern like this. Picture this method. I will show you on the saving steps on the next lesson so you can see the result as an evening gown. The difference, in my opinion, Onley on our final preference, whether it's the princess in method or something like basic block pattern to create this evening gown. But if you are still intermediate, you can use this basic block we because it's more easier when it comes on souping. 9. Patternmaking ( skirt ): next let's make this skirt. He started from the big part. That's throw the square size 18 times 60 centimeter. We call it s point a one be C nd one. Then cut and splice points a one de one C and B defied them into two panels. Next, we need to reshape the panels from Manila one point a one to be Mischer down 70 centimeter , then one point B two b two both left 15 centimeter. Next from point A to to be one, we sure don't. 65 centimeter and then one point B one to b tree. Move right fives until 10 centimeter. Or ask your desire. Then connect point a 12 B two to B tree to a to next on Penhall, be start with boy in the two to see one. Make sure down 65 centimeter then on points you want to see to most left 5 to 10 centimeter or s you decided next on point. We want to see Mischer down 60 centimeter and then on poignancy to see tree more fright. 15 sentiment there. Then collect point the 22 C two to C tree to the one now we need to smooth in the lines. One final a nb put all together side by side Then on point Me too, to see tree reshape with a careful er passing true poin ba tree or C two and then from point A. Want to be to mark down 25 until the recent emitter for super. Now the last step is throw the green line. It's perpendicular to center front. Next we start the front skirt, start making square 7.5 times 60 centimeter from point C D. C one and e Another square size 11.5 times 60 centimeter. That's name it s boy and D. C to F and I. Then we cut and slash on pointy to see two to ask toe. I defied it into two panels. Next we need to reshape the Bengals on panel A from point C to d one. Make sure down 50 centimeter, then on point it to anyone Wolf left five until 10 centimeter. Or as you desire then from points. You want to e Mischer down 52.5 centimeter, then connect point C one. You won the one NC. Next we go to panel B start from point C to toe F. Make sure down 52.5 centimeter, then from after F one. Move right, five until 10 centimeter or as your desire next on pointy toe H. Measure down 57.5 centimeter. Then point H to its do most left five until 10 centimeter Or s your desire then connect boy in G H two f one answer to next on panel C from point. You want to each one Mischer down 57.5 centimeter, then from point each one to each tree more fright five until 10 Sentiment there or ask your desire. Then from pointy toe, I measure down 60 centimeter and then one point I toe I won move left 15 centimeter, Then connect pointy toe. I want toe each tree to do one. Now that's Muth in the lines with all together, side by side, all the panels. And then on point. I want to d one reshape with a careful ER passing through point. It's too, or edge tree and F one or the one then drove the green line. The green line is perpendicular to center front. Now we have the top and a skirt here is the top. It doesn't final. Remember, you can use this princess some way or basic block away. Like this picture. Both are beautiful and obviously comfortable to wear. And here is discovered final. Now how about the facing will make it the pattern the same estimate fabrics to reduce your time ensuing and making the pattern. That's it. That's move. How to suit us? Better see you. 10. How to sew: Now we are going to learn how to suit the second style. Let's start with the facing. There are three facing you can use for making in evening dress. They are try kid See Slim and Kuffner. You can choose whichever you think is best for you. Then you need to apply the irony. Interfacing differ step are cutting the facing to Mitch the fabric sheep then lady at has if side face down on the wrong side off the February, then begin pressing When you do depressing please keep in mind to place the Iran firmly on it for a few seconds at a time and do not slide. Kyron, across the February after you done pressing allowed the interfacing to coup. Then check that it has fused all over and repressed loose areas. Now let's attach the garment. We start on the road site for step, place to basis garment together then thin into the common. Next we moved to work on dark s use. Will we start the pin? The lines toe attach what lines, Then stage Next we moved to work on our as usual, we start within the lines to attach both lines, then stitch here is the stitching machine result. After we didn't show in the dark, we need to trim the dark because we don't want the garment looks thick. Stream the dark seem and leave the same alone for about one or 1.5 centimeter. Then open and press the seam alone's. You can open it with pressing Iran. Remember, do not sleep the irony across the fabrics. Now how about lining for the lining? Too short a time work. We do the same steps with the main family. Please note you do not need to cut the dark part on the lining fabric. Next, Attaching to shoulder line and the site seem please keep in mind. Always start from the shoulder part when you sue. This help you to double check just in case you made small mistake. Interesting from pattern to the common. Then we need to attach the neckline stuck on the roadside, then being the facing to the neck edge. If this is your first time, you can mark the line with running stitch. This steps helps you when you sue on sewing machine. Later run, then stitched the ship facing in place around the neck edge with sewing machine. After that, we still need to curve the neckline by trimmed the yellow ones to create the curve. Nick Line. How you dream is from the age to the line off the neck line. Live for about two or three millimeter. You can also trim with three angle shape to make it more round it, especially if you're for every quiet sick. Then we go finessing the neckline part. We stay staged the neck edge off the lining February. Please remember when you start stitching, make sure it goes following the line. Otherwise you're inside. Result will not look expensive to do it. You start by fold under the ends off the facing at either side off the neck. Opening and press then understates the facing by stitching just next to the neckline seem to the facing and all the same alone's Remember. This is unimportant steps because under stitching will hide the facing at the finish neck edge on the right side off the government where it might otherwise spoil the appearance off the garment neckline. Now we are done with the neckline. Let's most to gamble. Start with Binda lining to the main fair break making the same line. Fall the men fabric and the lining following dinz and pin it all around the lines. Then do the invisible hand stitch. Why buy Henstridge to close? Damn hope, because this is the easiest way to do redder than you sue with sewing machine. Then again, you stay. Stitch all around the lines when you stay states the edge off the lining fabrics. Usually it gets difficult, especially when it around the shoulder. If that happens, you can let that part onstage as long as the other part stage it is enough. Next we start making this skirt as usual. The first step is been. Each panels than machines teach each panels one by work. As for the skirt lining, we do the same steps as the main fabric. Now it's time to attach the top, and the skirt first step is open, the same off its skirt and top panels. Then been both discards and a as you can see on the picture, then machines teaching this step, you can do the same on the lining. Now let's attach the horsehair. We start on the right side. Start my place, the horsehair on its side on the right side off the fabric, then secure with beans. Next, you stage for about six. Until then, really meter next steps. We go to the wrong site. That's full to the wrong site and press. Then secure the horsehair position with pins after Dad and soon the other part off the horsehair Start with Been to secure the position then is herring ones teach? Why I didn't sue with machine directly. It's because when I sue with machine yes, it is way much faster than handling. But the result will will not s nice as when you do hand to because the stitch will appear under main family. Next we will sue the invisible super like the first style. The CPE is inserted before the same is teaches. Remember to use concealed superfood to help you sue this invisible super easier. Then secured Trent ends too close to see been intact. Sim below the sip and last step off this dress is Kurt closure by attached lining and the main fabric altogether. When you attaching the skirt, put each panels off. When fabric and lining site by site, make sure it's funnels mitt between the men fabric and lining this way. We'll help you know that you're attaching are correct and your skirt part will turns nicely . You will understand how important this technique, especially when you make a high low skirt without panels like this, obviously you need to be in one by one, all over the skirt. Then I prefer toe Hence teach. Use invisible running stage when you close the skirt. This way, we'll help you get Reacher. Could the result last dips? Please move up for about two or three millimeter from the lines on lining fabric. This way to prevent your in a skirt. Appear to the outside. This is the look for this dress. You either at the belt or simply plane like this. That is up to you. 11. Grading: on this video, we learn how to adjust, expecting into your size with heck method. Let's start with Measure down your bus wise hip for the waist length back wise legs in your skirt length. We begin from the top. Better start making square to make the square on defect ical line. Misha down front Weiss length. Then Misha Horizontally. Your buster conference, for example. You're fertilize length is 46.5. Sentiment there and you're busted. Conference is 96 centimeter, so you're for Tika line. Off the square is 46.5 centimeter. As for the horse in the line, you have formula. Here is order Bassett Conference Last one Centimeter Last is a Loewen's. In this case, we will not at thes alone's. The calculation is order. Times 96 Cresswell sentiment There we have here 25 sentiment there, so you're horizontal square. Measurement is 25 centimeter. Now, how about the Y spark if you have bigger or smaller measurement in this case, you can always reduce or at the dart size if needed, because it depends on the UAE's mission. The square works the same on the big part, but with its own measurement. Let me explain it. So let's say you're back. Weiss length is 44.5 centimeter. Then you make square for tickly 44.5 centimeter. As for the horse on those query half here is order Buster. Con friends, minus one centimeter plus is a lumens. In this case, we will not At the East Lewins, the corporation is quarter times 96 minus one centimeter. We have here moneytree centimeter. So you're horizontal square. Measurement is unit three centimeter. When you grading your bet, earn always double. Check with your own measurement. You can always a destination mint next step east defied the squares. In this case, I like to be fight into three panels horizontally and three panels vertically. I also like to put the vertical lines passing through the neckline on the shoulder line because there is different seismic. Sherman, when you create in your size as Ford Horse on the line, I like it besting. True. The arm hole and the site seal next on the existing. Better to fight the same panels with square base. Like this picture. Not a Tibbs to help you grading this year, put the same bus point. So when you're grading, you just need to follow the base position. He risked the look off, the defied it better. This better is so ready to adjust. Next step, put the bed turn on the square, you prepared, arrange it even to leave panels. My panels like this and then we can retrace each lines into, knew better on the step. You also need to make sure your sights him and you showed the line. It is fit to your size and between the front and the back pattern, it must be has the same measurement. Now, how about this skirt? As you can see here we have two panels on the front and two panels on the bad part. Now let's grading this Kurt on the front part. Before you defied your pattern, make sure your wife's line point until the dark point off your top. Better this aim to receive same measurement between the top and a skirt park, so the result after you sue is on the same line, then it will look rich. Imagine if the dark lines are uneven between the top and a skirt. It's gonna look chip right? That's why you need to make sure to get the same human keeping the top and a skirt. Then how about the big park? You need to make sure the wise measurement since its start lists to get same issue mint as to talk better. Like this picture. Now, let's get back to the front. Benton on penalty A. You defied the Benton. In this case, there is no exact measurement. Where you gonna put the line? As for our panel B, we can escape the pattern and we gonna move directly to panel C and put the lines deeps. If your wife's life is quiet, dummy, you can t fight Bennell B as well. So if you notice here when you have the grading it all defense on your measurement and this ice better measurement next start by drawing a square. The measurement based you can use here is the wise lying. You can make sure your new wife's lying. You fight them bit into squares first from the centre front, the y start point, then from the new Why start point to Cymbeline point. As for the bag, we're gonna defy it into two panels as well. To get the big part Y slide measurement Measure down your new ice line Top better then on both panels what the lines to defied them later on. Next, you need to cut else less. The skirt better, then arranged it into new squares. As you can see here, after you get the size you need, smooth the wise and edge off skirt line. Here is your new skirt panels. What about the length you can simply at all reviews the life from the skirt edged directly ? That's it. This is your new better with your own measurement. 12. Conclusion: that's all. Remember to share your work. Any questions? Don't hesitate. Last we are here to improve our savings. Killed together bye bye and