Paper Doll Self Portraits in Procreate: Master Cut Paper Effects & Digital Texture | Peggy Dean | Skillshare
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Paper Doll Self Portraits in Procreate: Master Cut Paper Effects & Digital Texture

teacher avatar Peggy Dean, Top Teacher | The Pigeon Letters

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction

      1:02

    • 2.

      Sketch Your Self Portrait

      8:24

    • 3.

      Use Color Blocks to Draw Imperfect Shapes

      17:52

    • 4.

      Dress Up: Accessories & Flair

      8:05

    • 5.

      Add Irregular Shadows and Torn Edges

      14:33

    • 6.

      Create Paper Texture

      9:32

    • 7.

      Make Realistic Folds & Bends

      7:15

    • 8.

      Your Project (so fun)

      0:39

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About This Class

In this class on creating paper doll style self portrait art in Procreate, you will learn a variety of techniques to bring depth and visual impact to your artwork.

Throughout the class, you will discover how to create forms that capture the unique character of your paper cutouts. Additionally, I will guide you through essential techniques in Procreate that will enable you to incorporate the following stylistic elements:

  • Stylized drop shadows: Learn to create drop shadows that mimic the appearance of real paper lifting irregularly. These shadows will add a three-dimensional feel to your artwork.
  • Isolated flat & textured shading: Discover how to apply flat and textured shading techniques to enhance the perceived quality of the paper. By using various shading techniques, you can add depth and dimension to your paper doll illustrations.
  • "Torn paper" edges: Explore the process of creating torn paper edges that provide your paper dolls with a tactile and realistic appearance. These torn edges will contribute to the overall authenticity of your artwork.
  • Drawing with imperfect shapes: Embrace the art of drawing with imperfect shapes to achieve a hand-cut appearance. This technique will enhance the charm and uniqueness of your paper doll illustrations.

In addition to these core techniques, the class will cover various other valuable skills and tips to help you master the art of using Procreate. By the end of the course, you will have the knowledge and tools necessary to create visually captivating paper doll illustrations that showcase depth, texture, and creativity.

Resources mentioned in the class:

Vintage Texture Procreate Brush Pack

Free paper texture pack  great for

  • backgrounds
  • overlays
  • clipping masks
  • and more

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Peggy Dean

Top Teacher | The Pigeon Letters

Top Teacher
Level: Beginner

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hello, my name is Peggy Dean and I am an artist, author, and educator. And I am so excited to be here with you, to bring you what I know about depth and Procreate. And we're doing it in the form of a very FUN project where you are going to create Self Portraits that resemble paper doll cutouts. And we're doing it all in Procreate. So not only will you learn to create various forms that capture the character of your cutout, if you will. But I'm also walking you through some valuable to know techniques in Procreate that will allow you to incorporate things like Stylized drop shadows that make it look like you've got that real paper lifting up and then torn paper edges. That will give your paper doll a sense of being tactile. We're also going to be incorporating some intentional imperfect shapes to create that hand-cut appearance. So you'll be walking away with an absolutely adorable rendition of you. I can't wait to jump in with you. 2. Sketch Your Self Portrait: Alright, so the first thing that we want to do is just set up our canvas and I'm gonna make this easy enough. I'm just going to Procreate open. I've got my gallery open. Go to this plus symbol for a new canvas. And if you don't have a size already preexisting that you like, you can create one with this plus symbol. It looks like a little folder. You can choose anything you want. If I did inches, I could go ten by 14, let's say I'll do and 300 DPI that allows me to print. Without losing any resolution. I like to be at a minimum of 300, but create any size that you would like. I'm going to say create and then that brings my Canvas open. And I'm just going to start by sketching. This isn't going to be anything that is to wild. We're just getting things down. And since we're creating like illustrating silly fawn elements, they're gonna be more exaggerated. They're not going to be true to life. So don't overthink this part. In fact, the example that I am using, I'll show you how you can do a side-by-side example I'm using, I'm sitting, but I'm actually going to draw myself standing. So that's how much it doesn't have to be realistic. If you want to pull your image reference, you can to the side. I'm just, instead of swiping all the way up to close Procreate, I just softly do it and it shows the bar at the bottom hover over photos and then I can just drag it over to where I want it to go. And then I can adjust my Windows. You'll be able to do this regardless of the setup you have. I did the new feature that lets you have the different ways to size everything and I'm not a big fan of it. But either way, what I just showed you will get you to what you wanna do. I can just pull this up and use that as reference. I know I'm sitting in this photo, but I am going to use it as reference because I like the outfit. So that's what I'm going with. To get started. I'm going to use my sketching pencils. So if you have my vintage Texture set, you'll find pigeon pencil right there. If you don't have this, if you go into Procreate sketching and you use six B pencil, that's going to work for you just fine. I'm just partial to mine. Where is it? Whereas it vintage Texture. I've got that Brush. I want to pick a color that I can just quickly get a sketch out on and then I can build around. So I don't usually do like a gray or black, although some people prefer to sketch in those tones, but I always like a color. So I'm not drawing myself. No, no, I am just using this as a general reference. So I have a circle as my head. Then you can see here I want to focus on shapes, and that's how I'm going to draw this. So I have a neck. Then shapes here, I'll make this larger. I see my color. So it comes down and then it has this little viewpoint and then it shoots back up. So this isn't perfect. I'm just getting it on the page. And I actually when I'm when I'm doing this for real and not just sketching, I like it when it pops up and off where it's supposed to be because I feel like it looks more paper cut that way, which is very FUN. Okay, so I'm doing my shoulders here and then I'm gonna come down. But before I do that, I'm going to look at these two shapes That's going to come down still open. And it looks like it's going closer than that. It doesn't have to be exact, but it is helpful to have it be similar. Similar enough. Okay. So there I have a vest. I know it's kinda cropped, although I also have a high waist. Who would know? Alright, and then I have, I don't have a built-on, but I think I'll add one just for fancies then in here. So I've got these shapes, right? And I have a short sleeve on. I need my these to be wider a bit. And things are looking a little weird. Not super proportionate doesn't matter, we're just sketching and if we need to, you can always go to your selection tool, grab an item, close it with the arrow tool and re-size. If you go to free form, you can re-size however you want to just know that's available. Then for I like to do proportions of, I need to finish this part. I like to do proportions. Kinda like all the way in, you know, what I mean is like triangular, like it's just weird or maybe I'll do something that is just more enhanced and not just so basic. I'm not great at people though. And so I've learned these tricks on how I make mine look stylized just by like, Okay, well I'm going to just create this grounded area. And it's funny because on my first one that I did, I'll show you an example. On the first one that I did. I some of you know, Laura, she was making front of me so much because of my little feet. She thought it was hilarious that I didn't finish them, but in my mind I did because if my pants are cut off right here, There's my little foot like I thought it was funny though. Okay. So I'm gonna do some cropped pants, my legs continue and then I will do the same here. Omega, omega them more Shu, Shu like. So I'll just make them come out into first position. Any ballet people in here? First position like this. Now. Okay. That seems fine. So sketch right now, arms, I'm just going to put them down for now. I could come in, maybe actually, if I come out and in, that could be kinda FUN and just group here. And then hair. I'm kinda all over right here. So I'll make it big and font, maybe not that big, vegan, fine, but I am going to also just a loose, loosely do this because I do all the details and pay attention to everything better when I'm actually doing the real, the non draft version. Wow, I cannot draw this side of my head right now. Okay. Then that's about it for drafts. So I can see that the top part of my body is much bigger than the bottom part of my body, so I can just grab that, re-size it so it makes more sense. Maybe my hairs out of control. So let's just bring that in. That's fine. This is fine. This is fine for now. And then that seems pretty good given myself. More width here. At least a little more. Okay. Great. Okay. So once you have your draft and you can see, I essentially just looked at okay, I know I have cropped pants done. I know I have a tennis shoe sneaker style done. I'm wearing a watch. I might want to add that in. Just as a placement, like I put for this bolo, I put just a circle. I can define that more later if I want to. It's so small. In the big picture, I think it would be distracting if I did something to ornate, but if that's the only thing that is than it would work. I don't do any face stuff until later. And honestly, when I do, it's usually just to ice. I don't do much with faces and I think that's where I feel good. So let's continue on and then the next lesson, we'll bring this sketch, start bringing it to life 3. Use Color Blocks to Draw Imperfect Shapes: Alright, so let's start applying our first initial layers. And this is just going to be easy Color Field shapes. And we're going to use multiple layers to do this. And that's so we have an easy way to edit each individual aspect to this. You'll notice though that's on some will have multiple layers even for the same color. And that is so that when we apply our Effects, it, it looks right. So you'll see what I mean when we get into it. For now, let's set up our first additional layer. So I'm going to go to my Layers panel on the top right. I'm going to select the plus and then it creates my new layer. You can have your draft layer on the bottom or on the top. If it's on the bottom, it's going to cover. So let's say here we go, that layer, whereas if I do it underneath, if this layer is below, it will be below. So I'll still see my draft, but I'll also see where I'm filling. So that's how I like to work. I'm going to drag that new layer underneath. But you can also choose to do it the opposite if it makes you feel if it's easier. One thing I also do is turn down the opacity of my draft layer, so it's not so bold. So I'll go to this on my Layers panel. There's a little N next to the checkbox that is representative, representative of your blending modes. So we don't need anything to do with that. We're just looking at opacity slider. So I'm just going to knock that down to 40 or 50 ish percent and then go to my make sure I'm on my new layer now. I'm going to start applying colors. So I'll start off with my main color that calls out, which is kinda like a peachy terracotta color. So I could just pull directly from that image by importing the image colors in, but I don't think I want the exact, exact ones. I think I want to play more, so I'll go in here and I'll try this color for now. I'm not going to use the same brush. This is really important. And the reason why is I need solid color right now. I want no transparency at all. And so the pencil, pigeon pencil, and if you're using the six B pencil, you can see all this transparent quality to it, which is really FUN. It's great for sketching and whatnot. But when we're filling color, when we're applying effects, we want every pixel to be picked up. So I'm going to use my vintage monoline. And if you don't have that, you can just use a regular mono line and you'll find that under procreates calligraphy. There's Irregular monoline. Mine just has a little bit of a rougher edge to it, but you'll be able to achieve similar effects or you can use any brush that an edge that you like. I'm just using this one because there's no pressure sensitivity and makes things nice and easy. So I'm just going to go along the edges where this is very dark. I'm going to go along the edges where I put these main shapes in. And I'm doing that in a way that is imperfect. And there are certain areas to see how this is a straight line down. I'm actually going to do a straight line down and then a little bit of a wonky connection, almost like I Cut and then I cut with scissors. And it just makes it look a little bit more like a scissor cut, which I think is really FUN. I'm going to bring it in just a little bit more than my draft and then I'll fill that. So if you're unfamiliar with Color Fill, I'll do that again on this side so you can see down. This is more brown, I think then I want it, but I can also, it's very easy to adjust color later. I'll show you how to do that once everything's already in place. I don't like the shape of that. So I think I come down like this and then like this. Yeah. So see how it looks. It definitely oh, sorry. I said I was going to show you when you're Color filling, you just go to the color, you just grab it quickly and then hover over where you want and drop it. Then do you see how Up here it says continue Color Fill. If you had a bunch of shapes that were closed and you recolor filling, if you, if you tap that, you'll be able to just tap the other shapes and it will also continue to fill and then just the checkbox will make it stop, which is handy. So what I like about the way that this is setup is that it does look imperfect. It does look like it's cut by scissors and I will make it look even more so. But for right now, we're just getting those shapes in place and we can play with all the specifics later, play with different color later, all those things. Now I'm gonna do these pants and I did a straight line there. But I think what I wanna do is come down like this and then create a baby. Alright. Come down here. And then create a separate leg that's just on a different layer that's maybe just a smidge lighter so I can see the difference but coming from the middle and act as though I've cut to pieces and put them on top of one another. And this will be a lot more obvious lips when we start putting in The effects of the shading and all of that. But for right now, I'll do that so I can see the difference and I might actually turn that, make it a little bit later so I can really see and I can adjust it later. Okay. Then I think all separate this a little bit. So I'll go to that first layer and just erase this part here so that I can really see that there's two sides. And then the other thing I was gonna say is if it's like too much of a perfect line and I want it to be more like it's cut. I'll actually go in with you can do Eraser tool and see how if I hold it, it snaps to place into a straight line. I will just pull that down to the edge and then it creates this little divot. It doesn't have to. I could do it straight off, but I did that on purpose and let it go right here. Just so it looks like if I did that more extreme and then I just cut that off there. It looks like we're getting more and more of that handmade feel, which I think is fine. And then to also make it so that the bottoms of the legs aren't the same. For maybe there's a cut here and then a cut here, cut here, something like that. So these little tiny things will make a difference as a whole when everything is said and done, which is really FUN. Alright, so now that I have that part, I'm gonna go underneath these two layers for my shirt. And the reason I need to be underneath is because if I go over this, I'm going to choose, I'm going to choose just off-white since I have white already on the background so I can actually see what I'm doing. But if it's over, it's going to cover everything and we want it to be underneath the vest. So I'm going to pull it underneath right here. Although I need to clear this layer if you do all that and you have a layer that you need to clear just as a quick tip, three fingers scrub and it'll get rid of what's on the layer without getting rid of the layer. Okay, so I need to do color separately. I don't need to do sleeves separately even though I would if I didn't have a vast just because I like having those individual pieces look like they're glued on separately, but since it's coming outside of the vast, I don't need to do that. I'm just creating. It's kinda hard to see because it's such a light color, but just basically easy shapes like a triangle. And then I will do one here, but then I also want to go back in and do the color separately. So I can a new layer on top of that. I'll go just a little bit. I would go lighter, but I know it's gonna be hard to see, so I'll go darker, I guess for now. And then just I'm going to exaggerate the color and make it longer than the shoulders and even bigger than I had it in my sketch. And then when that's done, I do I don't want that to be the only color where it's like the difference in color shows up. So I have my sleeves rolled right here. It's not something I drew in my sketch, but I do want to include that as a little FUN element. Now, another thing I want to mention is if you're using a monoline brush and it's too curved at the edges. If you go to your eraser and just erase straight into it, it will create those hard edges. So see if I, if I go straight in, it just makes that sharp edge and that's what I want. Okay, so I'll roll this just a little bit more and I'll clean all that stuff up later for right now, I just wanted to get the color and then I'll also do a strip right here that represents where the buttons are. And I think that's what I want. I guess I need my pants or my shirt to come. Syria. Probably my pants. That'll make it easier selecting my pants layer. And then if you ever want to make edits to the same area, you can, but it's onto different layers. You can grab both the layers by having one selected and then the other one dragging to the right. And then because the vest is also here, I will have to still do a selection. So if I go to my selection tool and just lasso around, then I can tap my arrow tool. And this can let me move it, but it will also let me change it. I'm positioning to I want to be careful for it not to touch the vest too much because this layer is connected to that one and I want that to feel separate, but I can pull it up a bit and then pull the shirt down. Something to note though, when you do these types of adjustments, I would stick to doing it only once because every time you move or resize, not if you move it, but if you re-size or stretch it in any way, it gets more and more pixelated every time. So just know that and be careful. Okay, So this shirt, I'm just going to grab this color and then I'm on the right layer. Yes. And then just come down and fill that. There we go. This Color, go to that layer and pull that all the way down. And then I did say something about a belt. I remember I'll do that last though or later because right now I just want to build from the outside in, and that's kinda what I do is find the primary step, find the accents, find the main areas, and then build and build and build in until I have my details like ready-to-go. It's just an easier way for me to work. I also find that all these background parts I end up putting later, later and later because I work from front-to-back, I guess. Okay, so now I will do my skin. So new layer, I'm going to drag it to the bottom. And I guess I could just nudge this to more of like a beige. Maybe. That'll work for now. So I'm just going to do an oval. Okay. Then I'm gonna do a separate layer for my neck because I want there to be a shadow there when we get to that point. So for right now, I'll just finish what's on the top. I just realized I said drag that to the bottom, but I actually want it to be on the top. Just underneath my draft. Okay. Then arm. Arm. I'm going to want that to be sharper. So that's something I'll just remember. And then I want my arms to be on separate layers. And that is because there's gonna be an overlap of my arms. And so I want that to also have some shadow happening. I don't know what that looks like because my draft isn't the way but I can always adjust later. But I'm essentially just same thing. I'm thinking about shapes. Like I gave myself a tiny thumb. But then I want my hand to just have a general hand. Look. Doesn't have to be anything super fancy. Okay, That's better. Then my legs. I'm going to want that to be behind technically, but I feel like it would just be such a waste of a layer to try to do that with only one element. So if I can just line it up really close so it doesn't overlap the pants. I should be just fine. I'll do that with both of these two here. Make any adjustments I need to and I get rid of my draft layer. And the last two on this one, our new layer here, my neck and my other arm come down like this. And then I'll just give myself weird claw things. My pictures. Okay. And I'll edit that one draft is done. Then my neck down and make sure it's connected behind because if it's not, it will fill the entire area. Okay. That looks good. Then I just need to do the final parts before we get into detail. So I'll need to add my shoes, my necklace, my buttons, things like that. I'll do the main two areas and we'll get into details next. So I'll go to the top layer, add a layer. I don't want to use black, but I do want to have something really close like a charcoal. I don't love using true black and illustrations. Okay, and then I'm just going just gonna make some weird curved shoes. And then something I like to do with the eraser is make any curves look a bit choppy so that it looks like I cut it out. And then I'll do that here and around. Feel that you use my eraser to both clean up and make CIA. And I also like doing this where it's obvious that that should be right here. But when it's not, it looks like that paper cut effect. Like I obviously didn't do that perfectly because I was probably cutting them with tsetse time or scissors or too vague for that area. One of those. Okay. Then I'll just create, I think I'll do just like a basic shape like this. And then I can clean that, are clean it up, rough it up, I should say the edges with the eraser. And then I'll do two strands coming down. I love doing these because they're just like this sharp bottom. So it looks like little paper strip, which I think it's fine if you want to really make that emphasized. If you pull, pull and let it snap and then do that, it gives you that really, really straight line. I feel like mine are pretty good, but something to think about. And then lastly, I'll throw my hair ends, so just go to a dark brown. Seems fine. Do a new layer for that. And this is something that I would say would be PFK-1 to do as as a separate piece, like two different pieces. So one would be here and then the other would be there. If you want some overlap, especially if you have lighter hair, darker hair, you can't really see the effects as much, but I could also not make my hair actually be so dark in this, we'll see you can always separate a couple of layers if you want to. And I'll show you what I mean by that later. I need to clean that up. I'm just going to do it with the eraser. That looks okay. Alright, so now I can sample and make sure I got everything by turning off my draft layer. And that looks about right. And I know it doesn't look paper cut yet, but just you wait, because we're getting into the first set of our details on how we're bringing this more and more to life in the next lesson. So I will see you there 4. Dress Up: Accessories & Flair: So we're going to add some the final details before we get into the Effects. This part is FUN because this is like basically where we're accessorizing are paper dolls with the things that we are wearing. I'm going to turn my draft layer off. I don't need it anymore. If I needed a reminder maybe, but I don't use a lot of the elements that are in my draft that are that I'm going to include on the draft itself. I usually wait for this part, so I want to be mindful also of how many layers I have going on. If you need to check, you can go to your wrench icon here, go to Canvas, canvas information. And then you'll be able to go to Layers and see, okay, I've got 38 maximum, I have 29 available. I've only used nine, so I'm okay. But it will depend on the storage on your iPad, so you want to make sure that you do know what you're working with or you will be sad because there are a lot of layers needed for this particular project. So just know that if at any point you need to create elements on different canvases or just use a smaller canvas. You can also do that. But I can get rid of my draft layer. I don't need it anymore. I'm not going to because I like to keep them. I think it's fine to see where it came from. So I just drag it to the bottom and forget it. And then I'm going to, I'm actually going to add the details to a layer just above the shoes and my bolo because that's going to be easy for me to remember. And I will go lighter for my laces, but I do want laces, so I'll pick a gray. I'll make this big and I'm just gonna do some crisscrosses. If I wanted to really make this all the Fun, I would most likely make each of these. So like all of the diagonals that are going one way on a different layer than the others so that I could really enhance the shading. But that would be going a little extreme for this. But just thinking out loud so that you can also have these ideas. And then I'll go into my eraser and just clean up or rough up these edges so they're straight and not as pretty because we don't want them rounded. And then same thing here. Then. Yeah, so see how that looks like they're a little cut strips of paper. I think that that's so Fund. Then I'll go and I'll do the same to some buttons. So I have buttons on my vest. I'm gonna do them. I think there's three. Seems fine. I think I want those to be the same color as this, so I can select this color just right here and then Color drop. Remember if I say Color Fill, continue, tap, tap, that's done. But I do need to clean up the arms right here. So I'm gonna get my eraser and just clean it up, clean it up. And then this one is on a different layer. I can go to that layer and clean that up. So it looks more like a paper could not a paper cut, but you get it. I might want to add this part. I want to make that choppier. I think I like this color to hold that and grab it. Your settings might be different, but you can grab Color and then I'm gonna go, yeah, same layer over the vest here just to do the button. Holes. Are the buttons go into, drag this one down and I want to make these look again, paper cut. So these are just those little details and I want the buttons to look less round to. So i'll, I'll make those choppier. I'm Button layer. Where is it? Here? I'll just, I like the circles. I just gonna go in and make a few, maybe not that extreme, a few little cut marks just so it looks like it's more Cut out. I think it's Fun. Maybe when I did a decent job. Okay, there we go. And then I want to add my watch so I'm gonna grab the same color as my shirt because it's a whitish color. I'll go to my shirt layer and I'm doing this on purpose because I know that it's already that color. Oh, except that my arms are on top. Which means if I was to put it here, it's not going to show up. So I can't use that same layer. But the reason why I would do that is because I'm preserving layers that way and using this little layers as possible. Sometimes I'll go in and see like what can be merged. Like for example, I don't need the shoes. Oh, actually I do right now because I need to do the shadows. But if the shoe laces weren't here and it was just two different colors for this and the shoes, I could merge those together even if it's not the exact same color. Just little ways to save that, but I'll do a new layer, create a watch band. I'm going to want to clean that, not cleaned it up, rough up the edges. Then I'll just do, I'm going to drag this underneath the layer that has these buttons because then I can put the watch face on that with the same color. Rough that up. Here we go. Okay. So now I've got a watch on. I've got my bolo. I don't need to put rings on. That's just too much. I don't need nail polish, that's too much. I have my shoes, I have my laces. You can't see earrings, so no big deal there and I'll just add my eyeballs. So I'll do it on that same layer I'm gonna do. Just, I like to do, I'm real separated and kinda down low. Let's grab that, go lower. It's just what I do with people. I'm not great at people. And so this is just something I resorted to on day and I ended up liking a lot. Okay. So now I will just erasing. Then my hair I'm going to fix. I'm just bring that down like this. Then that looks paper cut. So now I would just unclean up basically any parts that look like they're too perfect. So right here, I want that to be sharper, sharper, sharper. Right here I want sharper. So see how that much different that looks when it's just a little bit more like this looks like it's cut with scissors. And that's the first part of getting that shape down. It's like I didn't fill this part. It would be PFK-1 to to have it kinda like coming off a little bit. So imperfections and stuff that's I mean, usually of course, we're trying to smooth things out, but in this case, I want to do the opposite so that we have that FUN effect. So go through and clean up or Nochlin of unclean up any areas that look like they could use more of a paper or of a scissor look. And after that, I will meet you in the next lesson. When we start to add some depth and dimension 5. Add Irregular Shadows and Torn Edges: Alright, we're going to jump into making this come to life. We're going to make it look like it is actually layered. And this is pretty simple. There's a few ways to do it, so I'm going to show you the few ways first. So that way will you can decide exactly what it is that you wanna do for the technique that you choose. So the first one I'm going to show you is by using clipping masks. And to do that, I'm just going to my bottom layer right here. So this is my shirt layer and I'm going to create a layer on top of that by selecting the plus sign on the top-right. Then I'm going to tap the layer that it created and select clipping mask. Now I want to go to white, so I'm going to double-tap my colors for white. And you're not going to see this very well because my background is white. So if it helps you to change your background color or just turn it off, you can do that, but also the top is really, really light anyway. So that's something I have to keep in mind. Then just grab a small brush. I think I want to actually use an airbrush. So if I go down to air brushes, I can grab a soft brush and just make it real small and come to the edge here and I'm just along the edge, you can barely, barely see it. Let me do it on the vest layer real quick. So same idea, tapping it, new layer, tap clipping mask. Now you can see that I'm coming in here and just making a slight, slight lake highlight essentially. And this is going to, when it's paired with a shadow, it's going to make it look like it is Torn. So that is I don't want to put it along the whole entire way for that reason. I want to just focus on having this be isolated to certain areas. I don't want it to be evenly spaced out. I don't want it to be the same width the whole way. It looks like I have a oops, right here. Let's see where it is. Got it. So essentially it's just going to allow me to have that effect in place. I was upside down. I'm right handed, so this allows me to see exactly what it does I'm doing. But yeah, so it will make it look like a paper. The second way to do this. So that was the first way. The second way, I'm gonna do this in the form of adding a shadow. So you can do highlights and shadows the same way. But I wanted to show you this way for highlights. This is late. I like to do highlights and then I do shadows the way I'm going to show you. Now. Again, you can do either way for either highlights or shadows. The main thing to note is that you need a different layer for highlights and a different layer for shadows. Go back to my vest layer. And the second way to do this would be to duplicate that layer, select the one beneath it and fill it with black. To fill, you can either go to black and drag and drop. That might grab the whole thing. It looks like it only grabbed one side so I can go and grab the other side like this. If you know about threshold, you can hold it down and drag all the way up. And that way it's going to grab both. Another way that you can fill is by tapping and saying Alpha Lock. Then going to fill layer and then taking alpha lock off. It's just however you want to fill. Now. You want to make sure if you do use Alpha Lock, it's now off because we want to blur this. I'm going to turn my background layer back on so I can see this better since black. Then I'm gonna go to Gaussian Blur. And then I'm just going to drag my Apple Pencil along toward the right. And you can see how it's going to get larger and smaller. And you can see it at the top where it says Gaussian blur or 2%, 3%. I just want this to be like two to 3%. Then you can see the outline, but it's perfectly surrounding the object. So what I wanna do now is offset it. So I'm going to tap my arrow, which is my selection, and just to the right of it. So not inside the box, but just outside of it. If I tap my finger a couple of times in the direction that I want it to go. So I tap on the top-left, it's pulling up top-left. If I tap on the right, it pulls to the right, just tap, tap. So that's going to make it so that it moves pixel by pixel versus dragging it around with my Apple Pencil. So it's just a smudge pulled. So that's what I like to do for shadow. But the last part of this, to really make it look more like it's actual paper, is by going to my Adjustments tool and going down to liquefy and then make sure it's on push, which is the, on the very left side. And then you're going to change the size. And when I go close to here, if I push or pull, it will adjust just certain areas of that shadow. So for example, if I go closer here, a closer where it's closer to the vest, where the sleeve is, but just further away right here. It looks like there's more distance between the vest and the background than there is the vest and asleep Which would make sense because it is it's further away. Essentially. The other thing, this is looking pretty dark. And so I can go into my Layers panel and select N and decrease the opacity a little bit. It's going to decrease the opacity for all of it. So just know that if you wanna do it individually or you wanna do a concentrated on one area, I'm going to turn the opacity back up. I'll show you how to do that. So I'm on airbrush, that's what I want because that way it's not going to have any hard connections are hard transitions. There we go. And I can go to my Adjustments tool, and I can pick saturation and brightness. So I'm just going to do this with brightness. And so basically I go in and I go to the top here. So there's this menu and I say pencil. And then anything that I increase the brightness here, anything that I Color over. So look right here. It's going to affect this, but not the other parts. So that's how you can do like Isolated selections to change the hue or the saturation or what have you. They have that menu right here, which makes it easy. I usually don't bother with it because it's just an added step. I don't want it, but it is available for you. The other thing I like to do sometimes is grabbed the blur tool right here. So it's in-between the brush and the eraser. So Blur. And then I'll come in and just blur that a little bit more. If it's further away, that's a little too much. I just want to do like a you can't really tell but the difference is after, before, after before. It's subtle. But sometimes that'll just give it a little bit softer. Transition. It's up to you. Okay? So those were the two ways to do it. So I'm going to continue doing that now. I'm going to show you the head and neck and wildlife to separate those. So if it helps you to group things, I would recommend doing it at this stage. I'm not usually wanted to do it because I like to work kinda sloppy. But I do end up grouping when I have a highlight and shadow layer. And then I can just say, okay, this is the vest and it makes things a lot easier. So I'm gonna hit the head area now, I'm going to duplicate this, go to the bottom layer, pull my black in and just go all the way up. So my color thresholds all the way up. That's making sure I grab everything on that layer. Go to Adjustments, go to Gaussian blur, bumped that up to two or three per cent. Probably go to three for this one. Actually, I'm gonna go to four just because it's underneath the neck or underneath the heads so that it has even more depth. And I'll do that more with texture and shading here in a bit as well, but that's going to help with that. Then I'm going to do my selection tool. And so this has the arm, it has the leg. I just want to pull down slightly. So see, that's gonna do what I want. I don't necessarily want that for the arm. I honestly don't really want that for like that much of a blur. So I'm actually going to undo my blur by two fingers. Tap, tap. Okay, It's, it's undone. What I'm gonna do is I'm going to set the blur like I normally would. So just like 2%. There we go. That's fine. I'll tap it and just come out to where it's not to over the top, but it's offset. Then algorithm into my selection tool, freehand selection. And I'll grab just the head part. And from there because it's selected, I can tap Gaussian blur and it's only going to affect the head part. And then I can tap it and push it where I want it to go. So that's a way you can also isolate certain things. So instead of doing the pencil selection, I can select it and then change things accordingly. So lots of different ways to do all things in Procreate, but it's helpful to know them. Then I'm gonna go to liquefy and I'm gonna do the same thing where I just pull that Shadows. And what I like is when it has these bends like this, it makes it look like before we even get to this shapes. It makes it look like It's especially when you disconnect like this. If you come smaller, it makes it look like the paper is bending. And I think that that's really FUN. So we can enhance that later on. But for the shadows layer, it just kinda puts things into place, how we want it to be and see how it already makes it look like it has movement. So it's a lot of Thun than the leg had that on there. Both of them. I don't do this too much. I don't want it to be like super wobbly, but it's just enough to where it has Some movement. Now that I'm in this area still, I'm going to group these now and then I'll add the highlights. So I am on the main layer, tap and clipping mask, and then I'll grab white. And I want a very small brush for this. Come in here. And again, just a little bit here in there. So I don't want it to be too intense or it's not going to look realistic. It'll just look like you highlighted it instead of it actually looking like it's paper cut. And so some of them I don't even put it on there or it's just like on a small edge like this and that's it. Okay. So that's done. And so this is head, legs, left arm. I wouldn't have to do all of that, but this is an example that it's going to help. So I will continue doing this to the rest of my layers and I'll just let's see. Okay. I got distracted my myelin work process process. Okay, So I'm gonna duplicate this one. Come in here, grab the black. Wait, where am I? I am on the neck. Okay. Grab the black all the way through some areas too because of overlap and It's not going to show up the same way. I can see that my the neck is over the color which I don't want. So if I rearranged stuff, it wouldn't be probably wouldn't sit where I want it to sit. This might let's just see. Yeah, so see it went over which is fine because I can clean this up as well. So I can come in here, lips do my layer select, clean that up so it is more intentional like how I want it to be. But see now it's sometimes this just isn't possible though, like the way that you've layered things in the way you need it to show up. It isn't. So that's okay too. Just keep in heat that in mind so that you're able to make those adjustments as you need to. I'm going to finish doing this part. It's just tedious to watch the whole thing. So I'm going to continue. Just as a reminder, I'll just do this last layer, so duplicate and fill it with black. All the way through. I'm going to go to my Adjustments tool, go to Gaussian blur up to 3%. 2% is good on this, especially when they're smaller shapes. I will select it. Tap. That's an seems good. Then I'll go to my liquefy and I'll just push that in some spots so that it has some lift and some recession. And looks a little bit more organic. There we go. And then finally, I'll go to the top of it. Tap, I'm going to group these three. This will be my clipping mask, and that will be where I grab my white and go in there and just get a little bit of highlight going. And that's it. So continue that process until you have highlights and shadows on all of your layers. And I will see you and you have to fix this one too. I'm and I'll see you as we this is gonna be a three-level cleanup. There we go. You'll find that this happens sometimes too, as you move layers and as you manipulate stuff, but it's all fixable. When we catch it. There we go, finish that up and then we can add some texture 6. Create Paper Texture: Welcome back. So we're going to add some texture. And to do that, you might have, your layers might look a little bit messy right now. That's okay if they do. It might be if you're happy with how everything is looking and you have too many layers open. There is a work-around that you can do, which would be to I'm just grouping things right now for organization. But what you could do is duplicate this canvas so that you still have all the layers. They're still available to you, but duplicate the Canvas and then open the new one and then flattened some of these layers just flattened maybe what the groups are, anything if you need to create more layers and if you want to check, you can remember, go into your Canvas, go into your Canvas information and then it will tell you what you have left in layers. And so you can see I have one layer available. So I am going to do that. I'm gonna go to gallery, slight swipe to the left, say Duplicate, go back in. And then I will group those layers together because I am happy with where they're at. Although this I think needs to be a little more transparent. There we go. Otherwise, just make sure you like everything because it'll be more work to have to go back and then redo this part. So I'm just going to group these are excuse me, flattened my groups. You can also tap the group and say flatten. Tap a group, flatten, tap, flatten and do that the whole way. And then what it's doing is holding all of these items together or flattening them. It's making it so that your highlights, your shadows are your Torn Edges, whatever everything is now together so they can't be edited independently, which is fine because we preserve those layers in that previous one. But this will give you a lot more versatility. So now, if I go to Canvas Information Layers, I now have 24 available, which that's super-helpful. Alright, so what I'll do now is I'm going to give this a textured finish. And if you don't have my texture pack, that's okay. We can look at some texture options together. If you do have my vintage Texture Pack, I really like using just like the grit for it. So basically, it just depends on your finish style. So I'll just use something on the vast right now. So I'm creating a clipping mask, so another layer tap clipped to the vest. And then I can grab this color and go slightly darker. And so you can see it just adds a little bit of grit to it and that's just a texture that I really like. So that's in my pack if you have it. I also like ancestry for this because it kinda gives it that warn look. Now if you don't have those, I found I think under sketching, sketching it the very bottom, there's something called bonobo chalk. That one has a nice texture. It's a little less. I mean, you kinda have to go. It builds up a lot quicker. So you kinda wanna do it sparsely and it's good for shading and shadows. I like that texture. I don't know about many of these other ones that work for what I like them to work, which is why I made my own pack. But you could play around and see if you have a particular one that you really like. I would say charcoals would be a good go. But you can see how you can see it has a little texture in there, but just play and see what you like. Otherwise. Of course, I've linked to these brushes so that you know where to find them. But I'll just go with, I think I'm gonna do the ancestry Brush and my vintage pack. And I'm just going to hit all of these areas with this texture. Now, another thing I can do, since I know I'm going to want that there. And if I'm happy with the color, I can start using this in alpha lock instead of clipping masks. It does affect the full layer, but it's fine for what I'm doing because it's really easy to, that did not work. Alpha Lock. It's really easy to fill the layer with just a solid color if I need to undo anything. Okay, So that looks good. And then I'll go slightly lighter for this one, grab this color, and then come here. And so i'm, I'm applying the texture. I'm not doing it on the something darker. The entire thing. I'm going toward where the shadows are. So it's like it is on the whole area, but it's more so it's leaning toward having more of that effect toward the right. Because it brings that shading in a little bit more of a realistic way if you can be realistic with paper dolls. Okay, So I'm just gonna do that. So basically grabbing the color of what the item is that I want to shade and then finding a color that's just a little bit darker than that. I'll put this under alpha lock and just put in that Texture. Same thing here. Grab that layer alpha lock. That one's too late. The other thing to be careful of though, is when you flatten all your layers, you're going to be also adding. Why can I get a good color here? You're gonna be adding color to the shadow and the highlight as well. So you can see I covered up some of my shadow, so I don't want that. And I can either just be mindful of it and then go in and erase it or I can just do not erase that. Oh, see now I'm on alpha lock, so that's the problem. If I do alpha lock, I can't clean that edge up. If I ended a clipping mask and then colored that in, I could go in with an eraser and clean up that edge to bring that shadow back in. So that's kinda like the benefit of working in layers is that you can really have full editing capability, which is why I like to as much as possible, but we also have to be mindful of how many layers were allowed to have. It's a happy balance that we get to find. I like to go a little bit darker on my neck then I will on my face because it shows that separation more. See what I mean. So I'm going to need to use that eraser right here to clean this up so that I still have that nice shadow. And it's not going to affect the shading underneath that because those are separate layers. See right here, same thing. Just clean that backup. So another option would be to keep your shadow layer separate still, which would prevent this. But there's a, there's a ton of ways to work on it. Just a matter of what works with your workflow, the best. Like on these, I can easily go right over it because what I'm putting on it as dark anyway, but except for the light area. Another way to work around this though, is to go back to a solid brush. You're still on Alpha Lock. And so those pixels, you can just bring them back. With that hard brush again. It looks like it's being erased, but if I turn this up, so if I turn my background layer off, you'll see I'm actually just adding that white back-end. So like, like that. So another way to do another thing. Once that's done, add your texture in, and then we will add some Realistic Folds and Bends in the next lesson 7. Make Realistic Folds & Bends: Alright, so we are almost done. This is our last step and this one is so much fine. It is something so simple we can do to add a huge effect. And I can't wait to show you. What we're gonna do is all in the form of clipping masks yet again, but we're not gonna do it to everything. I would say pick some areas on your doll that could use a fold or could use some sort of imperfection. So an easy one for me would be my pant leg. It's a longer piece of paper, if you will. It would make sense that it would have a band or a fold. And you can make these as creased or as just bowed as you want. So I'm going to create a clipping mask on top, tap it, clip, and then go to airbrush. So that's under your airbrushing. And I'm just going to grab my medium brush, bring it up larger. And so I'm going to, I'm going to show you here. If I was to draw in a line like this, I'm going to erase on both sides. So I'm going to tap this, I'm going to turn this around and make this large and softly. I don't want that to be too much of a rough edge going even softly go into where there's just a line of that airbrush and I could I could draw it in that way with a smaller tip, but I just prefer to have this really soft gradual fade. So this is just the way that I do it. And then I'll come in with a little bit of a smaller tip. Here we go. Then it makes it look like. So the smaller tip, I get nice and thin and then I'll come in with the larger brush again. And I'll get into that crease area so that's it doesn't stay super dark, but it's just enough to create that dimension. So see how now it looks like it almost has a ripple in it. And this is so much fine because it just adds that extra texture. So I'm gonna do a little bit to maybe my color right here. So I'll go to my color layer, create a clipping mask. Okay? I want this to be a lot smaller. I'll just do the edge right here. And I want to actually bring this up above the texture. There we go, an airbrush and I'm down here, the airbrush is larger. You can see it's still working to get that crease in this one since it was a smaller, rougher edge, I don't even really need to do much to the other side. But now you've see it looks like it's folding. If I wanted that to be even sharper, I could just bring this down and comment a lot closer when I'm in. So these little things, I wouldn't go crazy with this part. But you can do it enough in a few places to make it look like you have these little Bends. And then from there we can add our background. And I usually just drop a color in and then I change it in lifetime with re-color because I like to see all the different options here. I think I think I liked that kind of like a periwinkle color. That's really FUN. Then I'll go slightly lighter than that and choose that Texture brush again. Or new texture brush whatever you prefer. And I'm just going to put a little bit of texture on the background. Then I can go in and use a blend mode so that this isn't, I can play around with how this shows up. I think I want to actually make this the color that is underneath it because I liked that better. So I'll turn this off, grab this color, and then lettuce and then the underneath I can make darker or lighter will see. I think I like it lighter. Almost looks like there's paper fibers or something. Let's see what the Blend Modes do. Might not do much, but it could, could be phon. I think I will leave it on. I'll do multiply. It gets a little deeper. I could change the color for that, but gets a little deeper that way and it's pretty FUN. And then I think I will make this background just like a tint of that color. So it's not super, super white. And just like that, we have this super cute paper doll of Your Self, Self Portrait for you. And if you want to have even more fine, you can create some cutouts of the letters of your name if you want to create little additions. So you have your family. That is also very FUN. And then you could have your families surname, anything. It just is such a FUN project and I really cannot wait to see what you have done with your own self-portrait. In the next video, I'm gonna give you a FUN assignment. So let's move over there. I can't wait 8. Your Project (so fun): Alright, you guys, it is time for your project. What you are going to do now that you have your own self-portrait is create one for your favorite person, maybe one of your favorite people because you don't like to play favorites. But it is so much FUN to just randomly send over a little paper doll of your friend and obviously share your project because I know I wanna see it. I know everybody else wants to see it. This is such a fun1 to see how people interpret it. So I can't wait to see what you do. I will see you so soon