Transcripts
1. Make Your Own Silk Pillowcase~Intro: Hello, I have company. Oh, I don't want to get up. I love my silk pillowcase. You're so lovely on my skin. And my Chile. Would you like to
know how to make one? So come and join me, let me get ready and I'll
start showing you how to make your own silk
pillowcase. There. Absolutely. Having to sleep on. You weren't ever want to
sleep on any synthetics. Hi, I'm Victoria. And as you can see,
I'm dressed in a more presentable men and now, welcome to how to make
your own silk pillowcase. Now of course it doesn't
have to be silk. You can make it in
cotton or linen, which is beautiful as well, or even polyester if you must. But over the years
I've spoken to so many people and my friends included about no,
sleeping on silk. It really is the
most sublime fabric. And yes, they are pricey soap
pillow cases or pricing. They take a lot of fabric and the cutting
has to be spot on, otherwise, the pillow
cases will twist. So in this class I'm
going to show you how to cut and sew your own pillowcase. And under the Resources tab, I've provided a diagram
of how to lay out the pattern on the fabric depending on the
width of the fabric. And also there's a diagram
of the actual pattern for the pillow case irrespective of whatever size your pillow is, that there's also a
little diagram of the pillow and how
to measure it. So do join me in this
class because believe me, once you've slipped
on a silk pillowcase, you will not go back to
anything else. Okay. See you soon.
2. Class Project: Your project for this class is to refer to the notes
under the Resources tab. Carefully catch yourself out a beautiful silk
pillowcase and so it up and then presented under the gallery so that we can
all have a look at it. Now, if you wish to
have a photograph of yourself sleeping on
that pillow case, that's perfectly okay. Okay.
3. Layout Diagram & Measurements: Okay, so if we click
in the link below, I've given you a diagram
for the layout of the pillowcase pattern for 90 centimeter width fabric 36 ". If you want to pillow cases, you have to lay them end to
end so it takes more fabric. And then this is the 110, 250 centimeter wide fabric, 43 to 40, 59 ". They liked, they
lay side-by-side. And then this here is the
actual pattern itself. Now, my pillow cases, a European and they
are quite wide. I actually had to
use down pillows when I always have them cleaned professionally
with dry cleaner. And what I did is I got another pillow and I got them to split it between two pillows. So I've got three pillows,
maiden to do two pillows and they're quite puffy as
well as being European. So if you need to
make the smaller, shorter or longer, do
it through the center, just split the
pattern like this. Don't touch the
ends because that's what you need for
the envelope pins. Okay. So when this all
pillowcase than I made, I actually cut it with a scene
with the envelope inside. I cut it with the same
here and same here. Now the reason I had a
seam here is because I wanted the whole
thing to be setting, the fold back here to
be setting and Satan, because Satan is
one way, you know, like one side is
met and one side is set and that's
just how it's woven. Then I didn't want to be here. So I made I had to make a scene. Whereas in the new pillow
case that I'm making, I'm going to make it fold back because I want
that definition of being a matte finish
on the edge here. And then the rest of it is
going to be folded all in one. And another reason I had
a seam at the bottom of the pillowcase here is because I actually
ran out of fabric. And I had to cut this
on the screen here. So of course it just wasn't, it was too wide for the
width of the fabric. And normally you
wouldn't do that. You'd always cut your pillowcase down the Walk grain or
parallel to the salvage. If you caught it
on the weft grain, even if you've got a
perfectly lined up on grain, There's still a risk
of it twisting. And I'll tell you what
it's like a pentelic. If a pant leg is
cut off grain at twists and the same
thing would apply here. You'll have this twist. And it never goes. Often. The scenes don't sit. How they should this twisting like this absolute nightmare. So make sure that's
why I say when I was cutting when I'm
cutting out the pillow, make sure everything is
perfectly lined up on grain, on the warp grain. Now, if you do have
a beautiful piece of fabric and you don't
have much of it. And you want to cut it this
way on the screen here, then you do have to add
the same at the bottom. And because the envelope is quite big on this
particular patent, you might have the
same it here as well. It does make it a bit of a nightmare when you're
trying to iron it. You always have to
make sure that sits perfectly and that's
perfectly like that as well. But this pattern here
that I'm showing you today is all on one. Okay. Also, I forgot to
mention if you are using a print silt to
make your pillowcase, then if you, if you use
the pattern as it is now, just folded back, you're going to have the wrong
side showing here. So you will, in that instance, you will have to cut it at a
sea monster each piece here. And then so at separately as this one has been so in here, okay, So that you
have print or print. I mean, you might want
to make this print and have this a plane band here. So you will, again, you'll
have to seem at the end. Okay.
4. Cutting Out Your Pillowcase: So as you can see, I'm actually working on the floor because my pillow case pattern
is 1.8 m long, 71 " and I can get to
across the piece here. There'll be a little bit
of a space left over here. And this is on 110 to 150
centimeter wide fabric, which is what this silk is here. This is a very soft
silky, It's beautiful. Soft silk satin. If
it's only 19 cm wide. Well 36 ", you have to, and you want to Pella cases. You will be cutting them lengthwise down the
piece that won't fit across the width of the fabric that's on this
particular pillowcase. I've given you the diagrams on the notes and a separate
sheet and the link below. So if you don't have a large cutting mat that
gridded with squares, then you have to make
sure that you use a set square meter or a yardstick to make
sure that everything is squared perfectly before you lay your pattern on the fabric. And always cut your salvage
off as well. Don't ever. So anything with a salvage
on, it makes it too tight.
5. Pillowcase Pattern Hem Folds: Okay, so now we're
going to start by pre folding the envelope. The him as well. So we'll
steam all of those folds as well as the any seam
allowance that turns in. It just makes life a
lot easier for you. I mean, I explained
a lot of this about in my latest Skillshare class, just learning how to start if anybody wanted to learn how to. So it's a very basic lesson. But I teach about just pre fold as many seams as you can because
it makes life a lot easier for you if you
have a waist span pre-filled all the
things and then you can literally just put it on
top of your waist band. Okay. So in this instance here, this is the papers wrestling. This is the band that
folds back on top. So you have the pre
fold and steamed Betsy onto the right side and then
it will turn under, okay? Whereas this one here, this is the envelope inside. Try not to make too much noise. The microphone, that's the
envelope that goes inside. That edge will be folded
onto the wrong side. Okay, so let's start pressing. And we can start.
6. Prefolding & Sewing The Envelope Ends: Okay, So the deep envelope
into that falls inside has got a wider double him here. So I always start by
folding the deepest, the widest part of the him first and then we'll
double folded inside. So I folded the wide apart and now we're just folding the inside
to meet the foal, meet the inside fold. And steaming. Always make sure your steam away from your fabric before you steam on your fabric. Never know if your ion might decide to spit
out some do it. And it's a good idea to
constantly clean your ion. You notice I'm using
pins everywhere. Soap like Ryan's
away, he fabric. If you don't pin it, it's a bit of a nightmare
to try and work on. The ion will work on
the ironing board. Sorry. I put pins in to hold it. So I've pinned the turn back for the inside envelope edge. Again, I've pulled it really tight along here and pinned it. Get a bit of attention
and a pin down here as well to hold the
fabric on the onboard. But then I will send
measure along as well. Okay, that's the envelope
and pre folded instinct. Now let's turn it around
and do the exposed band. I put attention on it. So this is where you'll see the MET side of the
fabric is going to be my feature at the
end of the pillowcase. Again, use some tension to
pull it and pin it down and then measure 10.5. 0.5. It's about four.
Yeah, about 4 ". We have the exposed
folded back to expose band on the mat
side against the set. And I think it's going to
look quite nice actually. Ok, now we just have
to follow the end. So what I'm doing
here is I'm actually painting the pillowcase
exactly as it would be close. Exactly. The ends here meeting exact if
everything perfectly. And the reason I'm doing this is because I want to make sure that my folder at the bottom is
exactly where it should be. I want to need horrible
twists to surprise me. Blend pen there. So that's exactly with the notches. And we're going to be sewing
the side face anyhow because it's a French seam and
then we'll turn it in and stitch it again. So a lot of, lot of times, a lot of sewing is, it's
frustratingly slow. I think there's a faster way. I mean, we could just do one
seam inside and overlook it, but honestly bother, you know, pillow cases are constantly in the wash and a hot
wash too because, you know, our body, our face has got oil on it. By the time these are washed so often the overlooking inside eventually comes apart, especially in a SOC set and you can see how much
it's phrase now. So overlooking
really doesn't do it justice much better to have
a French, French seam. Okay, so now we're just going
to pin this on the board. Again with some tension. Put a couple of
pins here actually, because we're dealing
with the weft grain here. It's much stretchy a grain. My students always used to get confused between the
width and the warp gray. Now we just teach them the warp grain is always
the strong grain. I'm always tell them if they
can remember Star Trek in, tucked away just
to say what speed spark or something like that
and width straight ahead. So they remembered. Okay. So stainless on the second side of
the eye and noise, it doesn't mean this is a beautiful line and I'll
make sure it's always clean, but it does adhere
to the cysteine. We've more than the mat side. So now we have a fully
pre folded pillowcase. We can start sewing. See you in a few seconds. So as you can see, I've folded back the inside, on top of the outside, so team finished and it's
given it a really nice edge. And then this is the
inside an envelope edge. And I'm mad at deep because I hate it
when that flips out. And also because it's silk, it is a slippery fabric. Now the only other tricky thing about making pillow cases with a French seam and an
envelope edge end is apart from cutting it on
the straight grain is folding it the correct way so that it's really nice and clean at this point here. So I've pinned this is, this is how it sits
inside, sorry. Pin those two together. And then we're going
to so both the sides. And we'll trim off any other frayed fabric and then turn it inside
out to do the French seam. But we have to turn
this separately. Okay. I'll show you
what I mean shortly.
7. French Sideseams & Bagging Out: Now I've stitched it. I probably stitched about
5 mm from the edge, just under a quarter of an
inch and I'm just going to cut away all the excess frame. Silk has a lot of
success and has a lot of frame attached to it. When you're doing
gathers goodness me, phrase forever more. So if you're going to be gathering an age like
this, you would, you would have to add biggest seam allowance because
you do lose, lose a lot. To frame these sections here where where you've got the thickness from
this scene inside. And here I've
doubled, stitched it. You'll notice that I've mapped
fabric on my shears here. These are very expensive. And this comes from working
in industry for years and not letting anybody else use your scissors
because they, they handle them
differently and they send them out of alignment. Because quite often they
just throw them down. But also don't ever use your fabric shares for
paper because paper is obviously would mark them, will put something
around the handle. That's if they're good shoes. But you need really
good cheers when you're cutting
fabrics like silk. Otherwise, it can
catch when you're cutting and can you can
make an absolute mess. Okay, so now I'm going
to steam it and turn it. Sorry. Now, this is what I'm talking about. Turning the corner correctly. This is the outside, that's
the first CMU stitched. You don't want to stitch
it just like this here. Because what happens is I'll put one more pin. And if you do the French seam all
the way up like this here, it looks ugly, right? They're really not nice at all. And yes, you have
your envelope and everything inside and
stall turn through. But that's really ugly there. So what you have to do is turn it here, pull corner out. So make sure that
the envelope is on the same side as the opening. Okay. And then pin it. So we're going to
steam at first. So that when you turn it through the pins there at
the map, so ignore that. It looks beautiful. Okay,
it's all nice and clean. So press all of this
and then stitching. So again, that's the
outside inside flap here. Turn it over and push it through that with a pin. Pull the corner
out with the pin. Okay, one more row of
stitching and we're finished. This is your French semen side, so everything is
lovely and tidy. Know frayed edges now over
locking to come undone in the wash. And then we're
going to turn it through. See lovely clean corner here. Just have a few Friday
just to clean up. Still. It's hard to cut them all away before you close
up your French seam, sometimes especially with silk. You pillowcase. See how lovely it is inside
here. Nice and clean. So let's give it a press. Be careful you don't cut
too close to the edge. You don't want to cut your
beautiful French seam. It's much better to
leave a little bit of the frame showing. It'll come out in
the wash anyhow. A great way in a
cheap way to get any pieces of fabric of your ironing board
or off your clothes. Some masking tape or paper tape. Don't worry about buying one of those expensive role of things. This is a lot cheaper
and a lot for victims half the time. You go. Welcome.
8. A Beautiful Silk Satin Pillowcase: Okay, so here we have your brand new silk
satin pillowcase. Can't wait to sleep on it. Cut perfectly on grain. No twisting. Feels beautiful. Don't forget, don't
use a heavy Duchess set and you don't want to
sleep on a heavy weight fabric and don't use a very fine
so it won't last 2 s. And also don't leave any of your silks and
set in the sun. I used to have
beautiful silk, sorry, cushion covers that I made
in Sydney, Arthur beautiful. I spent so long on them. I pick one up, one
day, six months later, I had the sun streaming in my apartment and I
picked it up and it just literally fell apart and the
color had stripped one side. So when you're drawing your pillow cases and
the sun, that's fine. Take them and don't leave
them in the sun long term. So let's have a look at
it on the pillow now. Okay. When you're measuring
your pillow case, a pillow rather, you
might have to take into account if you were
a pillow protector. I have pillow protectors
on my all my pillows. And so it does add a little
bit more to the measurement. Not much, but it
depends on how thick your pillow protector is actually because some of
them are quite thick. Anyhow, I just folded
over like this when I'm putting it into my pillowcase. Just release it
into the corners. Doesn't look so beautiful. Knocking the camera like
a nice deep envelope and comes up beautifully
and it doesn't count. Isn't that beautiful?
9. Thank you: Oh goodness. Once you make your
silk pillowcase, you will not go back
to anything else. It is the most sublime
fabric to sleep on. Its lovely for your
skin in your hair. And linen as well. Linens, beautiful and
cotton, polyester. I just don't get why
would you want to sleep and polyester
when you can have silk. So thank you very much
for taking this class. I do appreciate it very much and please write a
review if you wouldn't mind. It really helps the
teachers and it helps skill share as well. So if you have any comments, please just post them
in the comments so that we can all have a look and
I can get back to you. But I really enjoyed
making this little class. And I look forward to your
photos on the gallery. Thank you very much and I'll
see you in my next class by night. Sleep tight.
Victoria Hannah, Artist Designer Patterncutter
