Make Spinner Rings!

1. Make a Spinner Ring: What I do and what I have students do is open the jaws. I close the jaws on the ring itself. And I read my number. I want to show you how to use one of my favorite tools, and that is the miter Ce. 2. Tools and materials: Here are the materials you're going to need to use to make your spinner ring. For metals, you're going to need to use a 20 or 18 gauge sterling silver sheet. We use 20 gauge in this project. If you're going to add a bezel cup, you're going to need to have pre made bezel cups. This is four millimeter, but depending on what size stones you have, you'll also need a little four millimeter stone to go in your cup. You're going to need a selection of wires to choose from for your spinners, and I'm going to be linking to some of the ones that I most commonly use, that I get from Rio. If you're going to be cutting your own ring blanks, you're going to want to jeweler saw and some one or two. Oh, you can even go three out if you wanted to, but I'd stick with the one of the two ought saw blades, one, zero is one ought. You can use that to cut your sheet into strips or you can order them already pre cut. If you can find a source for that, I cut my own so I don't have a lot of good sources for where to buy them pre cut. You can get them for me, however if you'd like. There are, we need some sandpaper, nail files, things like that. To smooth our work, we need a regular half round file to take off any extra and smooth things out a little bit. Need some crappy files to use with our. We need a morvice to get our edges smooth. We need a ring mandrel to form and shape our metal. These little shears can also be used in lieu of the jeweler saw. They cut up to 20 gauge, so you wouldn't want to use them on the 18 gauge parallel pliers to form your metal into shape. Flash cutters for cutting your wire. Ring sizers for measuring your ring size, and for measuring the length of metal that you'll need. Digital calipers, a steel bench block, and a little pad underneath it. Some of them come with the pad already built in. You'll need some sharps. I use both the wide and the thin sharp bed for different purposes. A rawhide or nylon mallet, if you're going to put texture in your metal, you'll need a metal hammer that will leave marks. Excuse me. Rubbing alcohol is always good for cleaning your metal, removing any sharpie marks that you might have on there. But also it's always good to work clean and keep your metal clean as you go along before soldering it as well. I think in your bench pin, you need a bench pin and a bench of some sort or a table to support your work. And then we have all the soldering set up in a separate video. 3. Basic Soldering Set Up: Here's what you're going to need for a basic soldering set up. You're going to need a solderite board. You're going to need, this is a kneeling pan, but you need something that is heat proof surface. Mine are raised up on fire bricks on a metal table because I want to make sure everything in my vicinity is fireproof. If you don't have a metal table, you could also use a cookie sheet, but a kneeling pan itself will also contain the heat. To having both of them in place is good for fire safety. We have back here an exhaust fan. This is a carbon filtered fan that's going to pull the fumes away as we heat. We have a third hand. We have a solder, pick some tweezers for moving our pieces around. We have a solder itself in different melting temperatures. We have a glass quench pot. You want to use something that's fire resistant and isn't going to melt, so I wouldn't use plastic for that necessarily. And I have some different types of flux and I have my fire extinguisher handy. We actually have fire extinguishers throughout the studio. We keep one up on the soldering bench, and we keep them near the soldering bench in the event that we couldn't reach through the fire to get it. And then we also have to my left over here, a pickle pot with the timer that I talked about. The pickle is a citric acid. We keep it on low, it needs to be kept warm. And a crock pot works well for that purpose. The soldering tray is nice, the annealing pan here, because you can move it in different directions to get it your piece and that makes it pretty handy If you don't have a solder right board. You can also use a charcoal block or other different types of soldering boards are available, but this is our preferred one and they're relatively inexpensive. That's all you're going to really need to get started soldering. 4. Measuring your ring blank with a caliper: Let's take a look at how we're going to measure the length of the ring blank that we're going to need for our base spinner ring. If I wanted to make this size eight ring, I would use this ring sizer. I would take my digital caliper. These are digital calipers and how you use them is you always want to start with the jaws closed and the number in the window reading zero. If it doesn't say zero, you're going to hit this zero button and you're going to make sure it says M. M in there for millimeters as well. I'm not sure if you can see that online, but down here in the corner, it's a tiny little space that says MM. If it says inches on it, you're going to get weird readings. Okay. I'm going to use the top part of my digital caliper to measure the inner diameter of my ring sizer. I'm going to open, you can see what I'm doing there. I'm going to open up the top jaws into my actual ring band, and I get an 18. I'm going to write that down. The inner diameter is 18 millimeters. Then I want to measure also using my digital scalpers, I'm going to zero it back out. I'm going to measure the thickness of my metal. I'm going to clamp that right around. I'm getting 0.82 We're going to just round that to 0.8 When you add those two numbers together, you get 18.8 When you multiply that by 3.14 pi, you're going to I did the mouth ahead of time, so you're going to get 59.03 That is the length of this particular gauge of metal which is 20 gauge metal that you will need. I'm going to show you how to cut yourself a strip of metal, but then basically you're going to take your caliper and you're going to put the 59.03 in the window here. Honestly, I'm not too concerned about the three. If you get the first few digits correct, you should be fine. The thing is very sensitive. Okay, I've got 5096. Perfect. Close enough. And I'm going to lock this down now. Now that I say this is actually, if you're going to use a wide ring band that's greater than 4 millimeters wide, which we are for this, you actually want to add to your total. You want to add 0.5 millimeters, we're going to add that here, 0.5 millimeters, that's going to actually give us 59.53 That's because of the width of it. So we want to make it a because the ring is so wide and heavy, it's going to fit on your finger a little bit differently. So you want to add that. Give yourself a little extra room. So we want to get to 59.53 or Oh, okay. Five, two, perfect. Okay. Close enough for me. If this were already cut out into a strip, what I would do is take my bench block and place my metal on the bench block. And actually I'm going to do this with my copper. So you can see a little, because the coppers already cut into a strip. And what I'm going to do is hold the base of my caliper at the base of my metal right there so you can see I'm snug right up against it and I'm going to scratch or scribe a line. Okay. And see if you can see that little scratch mark. That is where I need to cut my metal. I can actually cut that with my little scissors or with my jeweler saw, in my case I have a guillotine shear. So I just lop it right off. But that is how you calculate the length that you need. Okay. And we're going to go on to show you how to actually saw out the piece of metal. 5. Cutting Your Blank with a Jeweler’s saw: When cutting yourself a blank. What you would do is take your metal, we're going to do this in copper, and you're going to mark the half inch mark here. You're going to mark the half inch mark down here. And then draw a line between the two marks. My Sharpie is not the greatest, but what is new for this video? So everything seems to be a little malfunctional today. All right. Including me. You already see it's not making any kind of mark. I guess it did. All right. To keep that line from smudging off, I'm going to take a piece of packing tape. I'm going to tape over the line, otherwise my fingers will smudge it right off. I'm just going to put it on the packing tape. I'm going to use my bench pin to support my work, And I'm going to use my haymaker saw because I like it a lot better. I'm going to put tension on my blade, get it tight, grab some lubricant. I'm gonna run my blade through the lubricant. When you saw, you want to have your saw at about, Well, you want to have your bench pin close to chest height so that you're not squashed over. And you want to keep your fingers behind the blade and you want to keep your metal supported on both sides of the pin. If you have a hanging up the edge here, it's going to get bound up. You want to supported on either side. I'm going to begin by just a line starting on my line when I'm saw I'm just going straight up and down with very light forward pressure. I am not putting a lot of pressure on my blade at all. If you force your blade, you're going to get, it's going to snap. You can see I'm keeping my fingers behind my blade as I'm sawing. You also want to test your blade before you begin to make sure you have good tension in there. I think I have a video about how to put your blade in that I'll be including as well. And I just missed my line, but you get the idea I'm going to cut right into my pin. If I was going to be doing this for real, I would put my glasses on so I could see better. But you get the idea. You have a strip now. You can refine it on some sandpaper. You can remove your tape, and you have a blank you can work with. Okay. If your line isn't perfectly straight, you can do a little filing of it. You can do a little sanding of it just to clean it up a little. It's not going to be matter if it's a little bit off like minus, we'll be able to correct that after you get it soldered, you'll be able to sand it down so it's nice and even don't have to be too perfectionist about it at this point. Okay, I hope that helps. 6. Filing your Ring Flush: We need to file the edge of our metal flat and we're going to use the miter vice to do that. This is the 90 degree angle part of the minor vice and it has this little tooth right here. And I'm going to place my metal in so that it's flush against that tooth. To do that, I hold my minor vice on its edge. On the edge, I push the metal through so that only a little tiny bit is sticking out the other side. With this hand, I'm pushing down on that piece of metal. With this hand I'm feeling how much is coming out and I'm also tightening. Yeah. So that just is not in the right position. There we go. Okay. When we look at this, we want this to be touching here. We want it to be touching here. If it is, see how it's nice and flush against that square, then we know it's squared in there and we can begin to file. We're just going to place that in our bench pin to support it, and we're going to take a flat file. I like to use a crappy file that I don't care about. These are files that are from Harbor Freight. And I'm just going to go over this until I don't feel anything sticking out. When I run my finger through over it, I feel nothing. It should just feel completely flush with the tool. I'm hitting it from different angles. This tool doesn't have a lot of. The reason I use a crappy file is that because when metal is hitting metal like this, it's going to wear this file down pretty quickly. We're going to go through these files pretty fast, they aren't the sharpest anymore. Sorry for shaking. The table is shaking as I'm doing this, I apologize. All right. Once it's very flush, then we can take it out of the device and it will leave a little B when you file it, it'll leave a little edge that the tool as you can just take your I don't want to change the shape of your metal, but just lightly knock the bur off. 7. Preparing Your Ring to Solder: We're now ready to bend our metal into shape for soldering. What we want to do is bring these two edges together so they're smooth and tight, and flat so that when the solder flows between the two edges that it makes a great tight seam. How I'm going to do this is I'm going to use my parallel fliers and hold at the end of my metal and then fold in to make a J, J. And then I'm going to fold the other edge in to meet it. And you'll get something that looks like this. It's triangular, it's not even, you're going to need to use your fingers. And this tool, what I do often is come in with this tool right through the center this way. And give it a little squeeze that brings it from being like this to being like this. You can see right now, I do not care about this being a circle. It's going to be a lopsided oval shape that is perfectly fine. What I care about is that I have a smooth, clean join right here that I can't get my fingernail into. And that when I hold it up to the light, I don't see a lot of light coming through. Right now, I have a little bit of a crack right there that I need to resolve, so I'm going to mess with that a little bit. Now, if you find that your metal is getting too brittle to move, a lot of times this will happen, especially if you're using a heavier gauge or if you've done something like put it through the rolling mill, or if you're just working it too long like this, you might find that you're going to need to anneal it, which means to heat it and relax those molecules so that it's easier to manipulate. Okay, so you want to smooth, you don't want to feel, right now I feel this edge is sticking up higher. You have to get it all tight and smooth so I'm pushing it down underneath and then snapping it back into place. Once again I'm going to give it a little squeeze again. I'm pushing it down past the other side, Bring it up and give it a little squeeze. It looks pretty good right there. Actually, I've resolved that edge. Yep, I think we got it and I don't see a lot of light coming through. Okay. That is ready to solder. It takes a little bit of time to get this together. I have done hundreds of these rings, so I can do it pretty quickly. But when I first started doing it, it took me a long time to get these edges smooth and aligned. Using this miter vice is going to help you a lot because both of your edges will be even one of our sides was already machines, so I knew that it was straight. But if you end up cutting both sides of it, you're going to want to file both sides too, so that when these come together, they're smooth and tight. If you end up having this little lip right there, that's not a big deal. We can sand that down after on some sandpaper, that's not a problem. Okay, But this is now ready to solder. 8. How to Solder Your Wide Ring Band: Okay, so I have my ring placed on my soldering board with the seam facing down and I'm going to give it a little spritz of flux. I'm going to be using the couper Nel Flux and I'm going to spray it. My little tray is wanting to roll all over the place. Okay. So I've got a lot of liquid in there. I'm just going to dump a little out. Okay. Now I'm going to place chips of hard solder, like a stitch in the center of my ring. I want to have about four or five pieces. If I could pick up even one, it would be delightful. These tweezers are not good. Okay, let's try another pair of tweezers. If the edges of your tweezers get bent, it makes it really difficult to pick anything up. And those are very bent right now. I'm just going to plop them all in there and then I'm going to use my solder pick to push them into place. Okay, chip chips in there. Take our order pick and I'm going to move into place. Flux is poison because I'm touching this. I'm definitely going to want to wash my hands after I'm done. I always wash my hands after soldering. Just to be sure you don't want to go over and have a little snack and have this on your hands, I'm going to line them up so they're horizontal across the scene. A little extra one here. Okay, so it's a little bit overkill. I'm going to try to zoom in to see that. You can see it's a little over killed because I have six chips in there. You can see how I have lined them up like stitches. Okay. And then we're going to heat. I'm going to come out the torches that we have, a butane torches, they're very easy to turn on and off. There's I'm going to turn my gas on and then I'm going to hit the igniter and I'm going to get a plane. I want my plane to be, this is really too hot. I want it to be like a medium heat. It's so light in here that it's hard to see. But I'm going to begin to circle around. Let's see if we can auto focus this, okay, So that you can see what's happening right now. I'm just going to warm up my piece. I'm looking for that piece to get snow covered. I'm going to give it a little more splits on the top of some so that you can see what we're looking for is some snow snow covered there. Where the flux is, I want all my chips to stay in place. I want to dry this out. At first, I'm just heating the board. My flame. I'm aiming out here with my heat. I'm not hitting the metal yet. Once my piece starts to get warmed up, then I can move in closer. If I just come and start directly heating my piece, those chips, the liquid that's on there is going to bubble and pop and make my chips move out of place. It'll start boiling. See how I'm getting some snow coverage here. I think you can see like that little white snow. That means ring is drying out. Now I'm directly heating it. Those are some oxides coming to the surface where the flux isn't. Now I'm turning my wrist so that my torch is aimed through the center of my ring. It's getting up to temperature in a moment, I definitely could have sprayed more flux on here because I see a lot of oxides we're getting up to. And in a minute you're going to see these little chips turn liquidy. And I'm going to zoom in, hopefully you can see it and my torch is a little bit in the way. All right. They're getting up to temp. There they go, they're flowing okay. The little chips themselves have disappeared and I'm left with a little pool of silver. And I'm going to turn my torch all the way off. Now I can take my ring and put it in the water and it's quenched and we can take a better look at what we have here. We have a nice solder seam. I'm going to turn off the auto Focus is there, but it's nice and closed. Everything's closed on the outside. We're going to put it in the pickle to get all of these oxides off of here. 9. Rounding out your wide ring: Okay, my ring is out of the pickle and it's still this weird shape and it's still got some blackness on it. I'm going to throw it back in the pickle after I'm done with this next step. But I want to show you how to get it rounded into a circle and we'll see how we did with our solder seam. If our ring stays together, that's great. If it doesn't, we'll have to do it again. Right now, it's difficult to fit this over the top of this because it's too narrow. I'm going to put it on my bench block. Take my yellow hammer and just give it a tap on its long end. Just to open that circle up a little bit and now I can fit my mandril through. I'm going to pull it down with my fingers as far as I can. I'm supporting this against my abdomen and I'm just going to start to hit it flat on periodically I'm going to flip it because my mandril is tapered and it, it some more. Remember I was looking for an eight. It looks like it's pretty dead on. It's an eight. You measure it by how it falls through the center line. The eight is right underneath where the center of my ring is. Now I tell people to resist the urge to try to shove this on your finger at this point. It is not going to fit the same way that it will when it's flared. Right now, this could get stuck on my finger. It fits differently than it will fit. But I can tell I'll be able to get it on when it's the proper size. When the edges are curled up, it's going to fit differently. A lot of times students will shove this on their finger. I want you to be able to go over your knuckle. And I want it to be close, okay? I want to be in the ballpark. If you can only get into this part of your finger, you're going to need to stretch it more. If you don't have a ring stretcher handy, you'll need to stretch it this way. You'll put it on your mandril and you're going to hit it. And pull your hammer down in this downward direction as you're hitting it. Okay? And you're going to have to keep doing that and flipping it and doing that. Eventually, you may need to anneal your ring, which is going to be heating it to the point of softening it, but not heating it to the point of breaking your solder seam back open again. Okay. My solder seam is looking good. Everything is staying together. What I want to do now, it's nice and round and I want to take a reading of it. Could be a, could be a little better. Okay. Now I'm going to measure it with my digital calipers so that I can begin making my spinners. 10. Measuring the Spinners: Next let's take a look at how to measure our spinners to fit our ring band. First, we want to find, in this case, the outer diameter of our ring. Let's get our bench block out again. Here. We're going to set our ring down on it, and we're going to take our digital caliper, zero them out, and we're going to squeeze them around the outside of our ring band. Okay, Let's see what we get. We're getting 20.24 Okay. Then that's going to become the outer diameter of my ring. This is the outer diameter. I did my math ahead of time, so I just want to show you what it looks like Next, I'm going to use this particular wire. I want to measure the thickness. It's a half round wire and I want to take a look at how it sits on my finger. I don't care how wide it is this way. If it was sitting on my finger, how thick is it That way. I'm going to take my digital caliber and I'm going to measure how thick it is. I'm getting some different readings. When I originally did this. Yeah, your numbers jump around a bit, but when I originally did this, I got 1.45 So you can see my digital calipers flipping around in the different numbers. They're all pretty close. Let's see, somewhere between 1.5 and 1.42 I went with 1.45 fractions of a millimeter again, so don't be too concerned. Multiplied it by 3.14 the outer diameter of my ring plus the thickness of my wire times 3.14 is 68.1 Now, because I want this to be able to drop over my ring band nice and neatly, I'm going to actually add a millimeter. This is because we're going to file off a little bit of length. When we measure how we just did, we're basically measuring it to be exactly fit over the top of this. We actually needed a little bit wider so it'll drop over. I add a millimeter, I get 69.1 That's the number I'm going to put into my caliper. 69.1 Okay. I'm going to lock it down. And that is the length of this particular wire, so I want to straighten it with my fingers. Sorry about that. Again, just like we did with our other wire, I'm going to measure tip to tip here. I can scratch the line, just like I did before. Okay. Then I can cut this along the line that I scratched right in here with my jeweler saw or with even flush cutters. I'm going to go with the flush cutters just because it's a little quicker and I already know that I'm going to file, it's going to cut right on the mark that I made. And I have that particular spinner now I'm going to do two of just round spinner as well. These are going to be 1.6 is the thickness of them because they're 14 gauge. The length that I would get is 21.84 times pi is 68.57 plus 1 millimeter, 69.57 That is what I will put in for these. It's going to be slightly longer than the first one, but not very much. I'm trying to get my number in my caliper one little more. Not all right, so sensitive. We're going to go, for the sake of time, we're just going to go there. Okay. Then I'm going to do the same thing, just going to straighten the wire with my fingers and this time I'm going to cut two lengths of it. You can mark it with a Sharpie. I prefer a thin Sharpie for marking this type of thing where I'm I can get all the background stuff out of the way. So you can see if I were to lay my caliper on its side, tip to tip, that's where I'm marking. I'm going to mark right where that tip hits and I'll cut two lengths of that. Flush cuts, there's my mark. I want to put the flat side of my flesh cutters to the part that I'm going to keep and give it a snip. Now this edge, as you can see, has a little point on it that is because the flush cutters leave a flat cut on one side and a divid on the other. I'm going to go in and just trim that little did off. It's going to just take off as little length as I can. Then I have a flat side to start with for filing these because they're round, they're going to be filed a little bit differently than our larger piece of flat wire was at the beginning. We're going to take our my device and you see how you have these little holes down here. I'm going to use this hole on the end, basically you're going to find the hole that the metal fits in without falling off. And I'm just going to leave a little bit sticking out the back, tiniest bit. And I'm going to tighten it down. It's way easier to position it in there, I can feel it with my finger. I'm going to come in and take my file and just file that down until I don't feel it sticking out anymore. And I'm going to do all of my round pieces that way. Then my half round piece, again, I'm going to have to use the square. I'm going to set it up in the square just to show you what it looks like. It's going to come in here flush against the square on the bottom, little bit sticking out the back end. I'm pushing down with this hand against that square and then I'm tightening with my other hand. I'm going to hang this off the side of the table here so you can, it's a little easier to get to the dials to tighten it when you're close to the edge. Needs a little bit pushing down, a little bit sticking out there. What I want to do is check to see is it touching that square in the front? So this one is almost, not even half round. It's like almost shaped like a football. But I need the point to be touching the square in the front of the vice and in the back of the vice, it looks like I'm in there pretty good. I'm going to try to straighten it just a little bit more. It's not so angular. All right, that looks a little bit better as far as the contact goes right here. Okay, now I'm going to file both sides of that flush and then we'll be ready to set it up to soder. 11. Preparing to solder the spinners: Just like when I was bringing the edges of my wide ring band together. I'm going to do the same with the spinners themselves. I'm going to grasp the edge of my spinner ring. I'm trying to see which is working better. The auto focus or the auto focus. There we go. I'm going to roll into the center to make a J. There's my little J. Then I'm going to roll the other side in to meet it. Now I have to work these edges together so they're smooth and flush and tight, Just like we did with our big ring band right now I have that little triangle shape. I'm going to come in and give it a pinch. What I'm going for is that when I run my finger over it, sorry. I want that to focus here. I don't have a big gap in there where I can't get my finger nail in. When I hold it up to the light, I don't see a lot of light coming through. I don't feel any sharp edges, anything sticking up anywhere. And then I know that I'm good to go with that ring. Going to do the same with these little guys round wire. I'm going to hold it in the center, bend into the center, make my little J bring the other edge in to meet it and I'm going to squeeze. A lot of times to get tension in here, you have to push the edges past each other and then snap it into place again. I have that triangle shape. That's when I'll come in here and push down and work it with my fingers until I get a nice oval shape. As you can see right now, I don't care if it's round, I just care that I have a good connection right here. Okay, so that's what we're going for, smooth and even, and when you run your finger over it, you don't feel a lot of anything sticking up. Okay, so we're going to do that with both of those and then we're ready to solder. 12. Soldering your spinners: Okay, now I'm ready to solder all of my rings. And I like to set them up all at the same time just to get them done quickly. And I'm going to give them each a spritz of coupernyl flux. I'm going to take a chip of medium sold. You can use hard for this. You can actually even use easy for this because each one is getting their own individual chip. As I say that all of the solder chips are stuck inside this. Okay. There is one for this. You can actually put this chip on the inside outside or you can set it right on top of the seam as long as it's touching that seam. And I like to put it like a stitch so that the edges knit themselves together. This one however you want it right on the inside. We don't want to go out onto the pattern. I want to get it sitting on the board and then bring the seam right up to it. Then this one again, I can put it on the top, bottom, inside. Outside doesn't really matter, but I've been tending to mind that way. Okay, I have three chips of solder placed. I'm going to give them another spritz just to get a little flux on the chips themselves. Now we're going to heat, I'm going to use this durstin torch for heating. It is very easy to turn on and off. You have the off button, you have the On button. I'm going to turn it to the on. You can hear the gas going to hit my igniter, and I want to have about a medium flame. This is too hot, this is too low. We want about a medium. And I'm going to start to circle around my piece. I keep my solder pick handy in. I keep my pick handy in case my solder chip goes out of place. I'm just going to be warming around again. I'm hitting out here at first. When my snow starts to appear as it is right there, I can start to bring my heat in closer. It's getting up to temperature, so I'm going to run my torch back and forth over the sea. Give that little solder a nudge and it's gone into the seam. Okay, there's number one. Let's go to number two. I'm going to zoom in so you can see a little bit better. All right. Again, we're just warm. It's gotten some of the residual heat. I'm going to start to circle into the center. The only reason I gave that solder chip a nudge was because I felt it had pulled away from the wall a little bit. This one is touching still, I believe. But we'll do the same thing there. It goes right into the scene and onto the last one, hitting right into the center. It's up to temperature. I'm going back and forth over my scene, looking for that little chip to disappear. And there it goes. And then we're going to turn our torch off, set it down, and we can pick up our little pieces and quench them. They're just going into a little bowl of water that I have right near me here, a glass bowl of water. Then after they've hit the water, they're cool and I can pick them up and put them in the pickle. Our pickle is citric acid and we keep it in a crock pot to keep it hot. You can also use a candle warmer or something like that. I do recommend having a timer on whatever you use for your pickle because a lot of times people forget to turn that off, and that is a fire hazard when you leave it on for good studio safety. If you can see, we have we have a timer back here. My crock pot is actually plugged into the timer and you can set it for however many hours you want. And at that time, it will automatically turn off your crock pot. That's a good backup in case you forget, because we are human and we sometimes forget. 13. Forming and sizing your spinners to fit: I'm going to hammer open our ring. Get it on our ring mandrel hold down with our fingers. Start to hammer, flip. I'm going to hammer a texture in here. Before I do that, I want to get all this black junk off though. I'm going to use my flash shriner says gray, green, white on there. I'm going to first go over everything with the gray side and you can see how it's taking all that pink and black stuff off of there. Also, before I hammer a texture, I can do any clean up of my solder that's on the outside here because it's easier to do that before the texture is in there. I can see that I have a little ridge right there with my solder. And I can take my metal file and follow the direction of the curve. I'm going to put this right over on my bench pin and file that out. Now with the inside of it, I would want to use a half round file. I'm going to show you the file I prefer. This is my favorite file. It has a half round side and it has a flat side. With the flat side, I'm going to smooth out that little notch we have there. I'm going to put it right over on my bench pin. And with the half round side, I'm going to come through this way and smooth out the inside of my ring. Once I get that done, then I can hammer the texture in this hammering of the texture is going to stretch this metal, which is what I want so that it'll fit over my ring band. Tried on the ring band, there we go. It drops over. Nice and tidy. If it gets a wave in here this way, just take it a step that is the fit that you're looking for, okay? Then with this, I still have some junk left on the pickle, didn't take off. I'm going to come around with that. Here again, I have and I'm going to take that file and I'm going to follow the direction of the curve and I'm going to remove that seam. I have a one 20 sandpaper and I'm just going to do figure eights. And I'm going to keep doing that until everything is nice and smooth and level. 14. Cleaning Up Your Wide Ring: I'm going to hammer open our ring. Get it on our ring mandrel hold down with our fingers. Start to hammer, flip. I'm going to hammer a texture in here. Before I do that, I want to get all this black junk off though. I'm going to use my flash shriner says gray, green, white on there. I'm going to first go over everything with the gray side and you can see how it's taking all that pink and black stuff off of there. Also, before I hammer a texture, I can do any clean up of my solder that's on the outside here because it's easier to do that before the texture is in there. I can see that I have a little ridge right there with my solder. And I can take my metal file and follow the direction of the curve. I'm going to put this right over on my bench pin and file that out. Now with the inside of it, I would want to use a half round file. I'm going to show you the file I prefer. This is my favorite file. It has a half round side and it has a flat side. With the flat side, I'm going to smooth out that little notch we have there. I'm going to put it right over on my bench pin. And with the half round side, I'm going to come through this way and smooth out the inside of my ring. Once I get that done, then I can hammer the texture in this hammering of the texture is going to stretch this metal, which is what I want so that it'll fit over my ring band. Tried on the ring band, there we go. It drops over. Nice and tidy. If it gets a wave in here this way, just take it a step that is the fit that you're looking for, okay? Then with this, I still have some junk left on the pickle, didn't take off. I'm going to come around with that. Here again, I have and I'm going to take that file and I'm going to follow the direction of the curve and I'm going to remove that seam. I have a one 20 sandpaper and I'm just going to do figure eights. And I'm going to keep doing that until everything is nice and smooth and level. 15. Polishing with Pads: I now have all of my rings fitting nicely over my wide band so that they will spin. Everything's moving, Everything is looking good. Now. It's going to be the time to polish everything up. There's a couple of different ways that you can do this. There's a lot of different ways actually. The low budget way and easy to do is to get one of these little flash shiners and some polish pads. These pro polish pads are from Rio. The flash shiners, I get a Amazon. You can use the pro polish pads to get on the inside of your rings. Inside will take off all of that junk in there and then you can use the flash shiner for the outside of your ring. You can just go over, it'll tell you the order on the front and gray, then green, then white. And by the time I go over the whole ring, usually I'm just showing you one section. By the time I get to the white, everything's nice, will get really nice and shiny. Okay, that's one way. Then the other way is to throw all of your place. I shouldn't say throw in the rotary tumbler, and I have a separate video on using the tumbler. We also have a buffing machine here. Sometimes we'll use the buffing machine to shine these up lots of different ways. The flex shaft has lots of different wheels and things you can use as well. It's going to be your personal preference on shining things, but this is the most inexpensive way to go. 16. Soldering on the Bezel Cup: Next I want to show you how to pre flow your solder onto your bezel cup. To get it ready for me, we're going to set a bezzel stone on one of our rings. The first thing we want to do is spray our little bezel cup with some flux. Then we're going to use a rip of easy solder and we're going to place that rip of easy solder on the back of that ring. Ring a little cup? Not yet, but it will be Then we're going to heat that until it flows. You could give that another spray of soder flux if you want, but there's a lot of liquid on there, so I'm not going to bother. I'm just going to heat this. And I'm staying well, far away from it right now because there's a bit of liquid on there. The liquid popped it off, just as I said that it would if you come in too quickly. Because I'm making a video, of course, that's what's going to happen. Okay. So you just stop. Turn off your torch and put it back on. Now my solder has flowed. Now I'm going to place my ring, my ring in this third hand. I want my solder seem to be going down and coming down right on top of that cup. I'm going to quench that cup just because I'm going to be moving things around a little bit here. It still looks pretty clean, so I don't need to pickle it if it looks dirty. I would sometimes I'll mark in here with a Sharpie so that I know where my se is, the original one, if I can see it. Okay. Then I'll just go ahead and do this next step. I want to check front to back, left to right. Does my little cup look even? And it looks pretty good. My original seam is right. I believe the light in here today is not. It's hard to see all this stuff. Okay. I'm not sure if I'm hitting my original solder seam, but we're going to go with it anyway. It's not the end of the world if they miss our original solder seam. I'm going to give everything a spray of flux again. Now I'm going to heat this again, starting from the top, just warming things up. And then I'm going to bring my heat around this way. What you're going to see is this ring that is going to sink down when the solder flows. It can be difficult to see, so I usually put my eye right down on the eye level. You should be able to see a little glassiness on that cup. There's my solder. I may stop and adjust that. I don't really care for it when it misses like that. I'm going to move things over a bit. All right? Try again. I'm sure that slucks right under there where the actual, So see if we can see down here. I want you'll be able to see down where, when that cup sinks down. Okay. It's up to ten it for a little glass, you know, down there. Okay. I do believe it has flowed. The test is when we lift this up, does it stick stuck to the board? Okay. Yep, it's all stuck together and we have our little buzz code. Okay. There it is, and it's ready to go into the pick up. 17. Setting the stone: Now that our ring is out of the tumbler and nice and shiny, we are going to set the stone. I'm going to use this ring clamp. And I'm going to clamp down my ring band so that just the little tip is sticking out. And I'm going to put the wedge in the bottom and give it a little hammer because my yellow mallet to keep it in there. Then I am going to place my stone in and hopefully it fits because I can see that I mangled. Now we have a little get in here. Mangled up my bezel cup a little bit while I was working with it. But I need to get this in there nice and level. I'm pushing down with my finger and I want to make sure that it's fully seated before I start to set it. It's not wiggly and wobbly and it's not sticking up on one edge. Sometimes what I'll do is I'll take a pro polish pad and I'll set it in here and I'll just give it a little tiny tap. The pad is just protecting it just to get it evenly seated down and around. Okay. And now it's looking pretty good. I'm going to use my Bessel pusher and I'm going to work from opposite poles. I'm going to come up and over, I'm going to come up and over from different poles. And I'm holding the little stone down with my finger just so it doesn't go flying north, south, east, west, Just coming up and over. I hope you can see what I'm doing there. I don't know if the auto focus is helping or not helping, but this is what we're doing up and over. Up and over. Okay. With the flat side of this. Now that I've got all my edges going, I can just come around, I've started at the polls, looks pretty blurry. Take the auto focus off. Okay. All right. Topping over all around until you get it nice and smooth. Okay. And that's it. So that is ready to go. 18. Burnishing the Setting: If you'd like to with your ring, you can take a little burnishing tool come around and smooth the edges. I hold it like a little potato peeler, and I just go over and push the edges down a little bit more. And running your tool over it this way, shines it up as well, just to make sure everything's nice and down and smooth. This is a serrated bezel cup, so the edges go over nice and easy. Okay. 19. Flaring your Ring Band: We are now ready to flare ring, and there's a couple of different ways you can do this. This here is actually called the frets tool for four flaring spinner rings. I believe it's called the frets spinner ring tool has a little tool that goes on top and you want to make sure that you have assembled all of your spinners in the order that you want them to go. And then we're going to place them all together on the tool, take a brass mallet and we're going to hit. I usually do three or four taps and then flip it and do the other side, back and forth, even number of times. That's five. I'm going to do five on the other side. I'm going to just keep checking my edges, make sure everything's staying together. Make sure nothing's tearing open. I'll just continue going back and forth until I have captured my spinners. Okay. That's how that tool looks and I don't know if you can see. Let's see if we can focus, but it's already starting to flare the edges so that I can't pull my rings off. That's actually done. If you want it to be I was just as easy as that, but if you want more drama and flare on your edges, you could use what I used before. I had the frets flaring tool, which is these. This is part of a dapping set. This is a dapping tool. I just put that on top of my ring and tap it with the brass mill. I'm just tapping it lightly. I don't want to kill it and break my right. But this is going to give it a little more curvature. If you want a steep curve on it, you're going to want to use something like this to get a little bit of flare. But my ring is now done. Let's see. Let me focus on it. There we go. It's all together. I spins, and it fits. Fits on my middle finger where I wanted it. Great. Thank you very much for watching and I would love to see what you put together for your spinner ring.