Loose Watercolour Birds - paint like a pro | Patrick Visser | Skillshare

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Loose Watercolour Birds - paint like a pro

teacher avatar Patrick Visser, Designer and Artist

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction to the class

      1:26

    • 2.

      Materials

      2:48

    • 3.

      Basic Bird Anatomy

      2:57

    • 4.

      Sketching birds

      4:24

    • 5.

      Demo - Chicken

      8:24

    • 6.

      Demo - Seagull

      13:29

    • 7.

      Demo - Red Robin

      8:53

    • 8.

      Wrap up

      0:52

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About This Class

In this class we’ll learn how to paint 3 different birds with watercolours:
chicken, seagull and robin.

You can download a PDF with sketch outlines. So, if you’re not a confident sketcher you can trace the birds to get you started.

We’ll use many of the foundational watercolour techniques:

  • Wet in wet,
  • Wet on dry
  • Glazing
  • Dry brush

Class topics:

  • Basic bird anatomy
  • A blueprint to draw every kind bird
  • 3 full-length painting demos

I also share lots of tips to help you achieve loose and dynamic watercolours. 

After completing this class you'll hopefully agree that painting birds isn’t all that difficult and immensely rewarding.

You can buy my Quick Guide Bundle for Watercolour which includes 4 quick guides for painting Chickens, Clouds, People and Rocks

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Patrick Visser

Designer and Artist

Teacher

I'm Patrick, a Designer and Watercolour Artist living in Sydney.

My passion is drawing and expressing ideas with pen and pigment on paper. Whether that's in my job as a UX Design Manager, or when I live my "other" life as a Watercolour Artist.

I'm an autodidact and learned to draw and paint not until I was well progressed into my adult life. I truly believe ANYONE can learn to paint and draw at ANY TIME in their life.

All it takes is determination and consistent practice.

And consider my Watercolour Quick Guide Bundle, which includes 4 quick guides for painting Chickens, Clouds, People and Rocks

See full profile

Level: All Levels

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Transcripts

1. Introduction to the class: Hi. I'm Patrick, watercolor artists from Sydney, Australia. I moved here many, many years ago, and I just fell in love with Australia's natural beauty. And that's why I love to paint the landscape and its wildlife, including the bird. I actually think the birds are the perfect subject for watercolors, whether you're a beginner or a more experienced artist. They allow me to experiment with colors, textures and composition. In this course, we'll paint three different types of birds. Chicken, a sea gull, and the red robin. And if you're not a confidence sketcher, I've even included some templates that you can trace on your paper to get started. During the demos, we'll be using most of the foundational watercolor skills such as wet and wet, wet on dry, glazing and dry brush. And I'll share many tips to keep your paintings nice and loose and dynamic. And these skills you can apply to any kind of subject later on. For your project, you can choose to paint either one of the three birds that I'm providing a full demo for, or you can pick your own reference and just use the skills that you learn in this class. If you choose to upload your paintings, I will be providing some personal feedback as well. I hope you'll join my class and learn how to paint these three little birds in a loose and dynamic style, and I look forward to seeing your wonderful work. 2. Materials: All right. Let's quickly talk about some of the materials I be using in this class. If you were a complete beginning to watercolors and this happened to be your first ever video on watercolors, then I will probably recommend you go and watch some beginner videos and other courses on this wonderful platform that will teach you the basics. While what I'm teaching is not particularly difficult and it can appeal to beginners and more intermediate painters as well. This should probably not be your first watercolor class that you're taking. With that out of the way. Let's quickly look at some of the basic materials that we'll be using for this particular class. For the sketching part, we will just use very basic supplies piece of paper, or you can obviously use the sketchbook with cartridge paper, if that's what you prefer. Then I use a mechanical pencil. I just like working with those or you can obviously use just a basic pencil. I like to use two B because that'll give you a bit nicer shading and HP. This is the perfect. Thickness for me. Then an eraser, I like to use these needle erasers rather than the white rubber ones. That's the pencil part. For the watercolors, I would suggest you use 300 GSM 100% cotton. This one is a Chinese paper bag. There's different versions of that. That's just a block, you can use a block like that. I often actually use pieces of paper that are cut out from larger pieces, coal press or hot press, doesn't really matter. You can obviously choose either of those or if you have, and if you like, you can also use a watercolor sketchbook. Same again that is good quality paper, 300 GSM 100% cotton, very important. I like to use watercolor pan like this. I always use tubes, but you can use whatever you have, doesn't matter. If you've got a little watercolor box, that's fine. You can see I'm using different brands. I like to use Daniel Smith. I've got some Michael Harding. I've got some Windsor Newton. I've got some old Holland. I pick and choose different brands. I'm not too fussy about it as long as they're artist quality paints. That's all you need to get started. Let's get on with the lessons. 3. Basic Bird Anatomy: Before we start sketching and painting, let me talk briefly about anatomy. It's always good to understand what sits underneath the surface level when we draw and paint animals or humans. With birds, it's good to understand how the different feathers are arranged and also what the skeleton looks underneath it. It just does help to understand how the heads made up, how certain things line up, for example, One easy heuristic is that the eyes and the beaks, they usually line up quite straight like this. That's always a good way to help you the position of the eye and the beak. Then we have a big area here that's the back of the bird. From the side view that we have things like primary fetters, it's these ones, and then underneath the primary fetters, which is what we see as the wing, we have the secondary feathers and then usually some tertiary or part of the secondary feathers, they're sitting under the main bulk of the feathers. Then we go into the ones that cover the tail, and then usually we have something that connects the belly with the tail. And if we even go a layer further and we look at the skeleton of the bird. That also can help you a little bit with when you draw them how things are connected. That obviously depends heavily on the type of bird. This is obviously a bird with a pretty long neck. Not even sure what that is, but you can see that there is one. Often we think that the head sit straight on top of the rump, but there is obviously a neck attached to it. Here you can see how the eye socket and then the be how that nicely lines up. When it comes to the wings, there is actually two joints there as well. This is what we would consider the elbow. This is the wrist. That helps with that one and then why do birds have this distinct belly shape? Well, there's actually a bone in there. One of the key things I want to point out here is the leg because we again have two joints. This is where the hip is and then this technical would be the knee, this is the thigh bone. Then here we have another joint. We don't often see this top part. We only see this bit here, and that's why bird legs usually go backwards and then come forward, which is opposite to how our legs work, which is more like this. You don't have to be an expert on bird anatomy, but I do encourage you to go and look online for further resources, especially if you're drawing any unusual birds or specific birds that the basic shapes don't cover. In the next video, I'll show you how easy it is to sketch your basic bird shapes. 4. Sketching birds: Right. Now it's time to do some basic sketching. Basic shape of a bird really isn't all that difficult. It's two circles. And they are connected through a straight line like that, and you can find the center of gravity by doing a right angle, and you can the center of that one. Then you have the beak. As I said earlier, the eye usually lines up with the beak. Then we learned that the legs are going from the center back like that and then forward. That gives you a pretty balanced bird and then we just have a tail. That really is the blueprint of sketching a bird. From here on, you can then try some variations depending on the bird, say you wanted to draw more of a chicken type bird. Again, we do that. And then we'll have a bit of a longer neck for that one so you might want to add a neck and then have a smaller circle for the head because chickens have relatively small heads compared to their body mass. Again, they go like that and we got the center and then the little legs like that. Now chickens have got thighs, so you can draw the thigh, but that's it, and then we just have a have a tail that goes like that. Again, not precise, but I'm just giving you the basic templates for a bird. Now I would recommend you do lots of different versions of that. You can also get more of a tear shape for the body and then have a little head. Then you can put the beak wherever you want, so you can have it look up. Again, we sort going with the legs like that. Roughly there, you can start putting in some wings. Now you can really play on that variation. You can have pointing in different directions. If we stick with that tear shape, and you can have it going like that. And then have the other one. Again, put the big grave you want. Now we're looking at it a bit more from seeing more of the sides. And we could also do a front version like that, and then we have the little head up there. Then you could say look sideways. That's the little b there, and then it sits on the branch. Now the legs a bit more like that, and then we have the tail coming like that. But that's the basic construct of how to draw a bird. Do some observations about the different size and shapes of birds. So you wanted to go more of a swan bird or something, then you obviously would need a long neck, like this. Okay. And again, the legs go back and forward. Then we need to add the tail feathers, and this is an example of a long neck bird like a swan, for example. As you can see, it's pretty easy to sketch the basic shapes of birds. I recommend go out into the world with a sketchbook and a pencil and draw any kind of bird that you come across, whether it's seagulls or ducks or pigeons or sparrows and finches, anything we'll do and draw from observation. I hope this will get you on your journey of sketching birds more often. And now let's look at how we can turn that into a watercolor painting in the next video. 5. Demo - Chicken: I decided to go with a common brown chicken for this interpretation of a chicken, and I start off with a warm yellow. I mix that with some hands yellow medium and some inc and gold, and I'm just adding a touch of burned Sienna into this. I'm keeping a fairly watery wash here. This is the t consistency. Because I want to create a fair amount of variation in that first golden layer that I'm putting down now. So I want the paint to dry quite unevenly and have different values and variations of this color. I don't have a obvious light source for this painting, and when I paint objects on their own, artists make up, where the lights coming from, and in this instance, it's pretty vertical above the chicken, so I'm trying to add a bit of shadow at the belly and the legs and lighter on top where the head is. And that's why I'm dropping in more burn sienna in the chest and the belly area and keeping it quite light. And the upside of my chicken. I'm using different techniques on my brush dragging the brush, pushing down the brush like this. This creates different textures. I am aiming to create the illusion of feathers and plumage, I think the technical term is. Just through putting the brush down at different angles. It's still nice and wet, so I can easily go in with a damp, clean brush, a thirsty brush and lift out some pigments if I wanted to create some highlights. This chicken has a fairly shimmery coat of feathers, so I want to create the illusion of light bouncing off it. Strengthening a few of the edges. I'm mixing in a bit of train blue, just straight into that same mix, which will turn it into a warm gray, almost a black, and I'm adding more burn sienna to it. This will work well for the tail feathers. I'm just trying to adjust my hand position. If I wasn't filming, I'd be turning the paper, but it's taped down to my drawing board, so it's a bit hard. I got to twist my arms to get to the same effect. And then warming that color up a bit, again with some burns here now. I picked up a smaller brush as I move from big shapes to smaller shapes in detail. While the neck is still fairly wet damp at this stage, I would say, I'm dropping in a few blobs here and there, just to hint at some textures for feathers. Always trying to strike the balance between giving enough detail but not too much. I'm adding a bit of reddish color to it to pull that into the leaks. They are in shadow, as I said earlier, I don't want them to be too vibrant, but I still want the local color to come through. Feet are always a bit tricky, no matter what species. I often hide the feet of birds and other animals in the grass or going behind a branch or something. But let's move on to the most distinct parts of a chicken, which are those red little bits on the chin and top of the head, the wattles and comb. That's just a bit more red in there. I'm just taking my time. To get it quite precise. I was covering it with my hand, so I skipped straight past it, but I'm sure you know what I've done there. Now the chicken has mostly dried, so I'm ready to add a little bit more texture where I feel like I want to strengthen some shadows and get some texture. And I'm starting on the eye now. I'm just going to outline it very carefully with my finer brush. And you may notice that I've scratched in some texture with my fingernails into the wings and onto the neck. That's just while the pigment was still quite wet. I just scratched out a few marks there. The eyes are always important, get them right so take a bit of time and care and use a detailed brush depending on how obviously big or small your painting is. But also don't overwork them. The most important part is where you placed the pupil, the little black dot, because that's where the bird is looking, and I'm going to finish off the beak, where the underside is darker than the top. Again, taking my time to get that right. Then with the same darker color, I'll paint the other wattle that's on the other side of the head. That's a bit more in shadow. Then just few more details. Spot here on the screen. But it's just adding that bit of shadow, adding that bit of three dimensionality to some of the finer details. Then I'm going to use a bit of dry brush to add some final feather texture to the bird. I pick up some darker pigment for some detail on the legs and feet. I'm actually not unhappy with those feet, but I'm still going to put some ground shadow there. The light is coming from above, as I said earlier, so there will be a cast shadow. It's nice to connect your object with the ground plane as well. Otherwise, it'll be floating on the white background. Splatters, for a bit of texture and we're taking a tape off. All that's left to do is put a signature on. I hope you enjoyed this little chicken painting and you'll try it for yourself as well. Thanks for watching. 6. Demo - Seagull: We're going to paint this Seagull, with a limited palette. The objective here is to paint a white bird on a white background and how we're doing that with shadows in contrast. You can download the PDF from this post, which we have an outline of the drawing, which you can trace if you want to and then just quick instructions on how I painted this bird. I hope you enjoy this video. Let's get started. I've traced my CGL based on my sketch template that you can download as well, or you can draw your own Segal obviously from a foto reference. As you know, Segels predominantly white, and it's always interesting to paint a white object. You can do that either by making a really dark background around the white object or animal that you're painting. But if you're going to leave the paper white, which are what I'm going to do in this instance, we obviously need to create some contrast. For white objects, you have to focus on the shading You can use cool or warm colors. It doesn't really matter. That's up to the painting that you want to create. Now I'm going to opt for a very light gray to start with, and then we'll mix in a bit of burn sienna for a bit of warmth. My sll is standing on a rock. I'm imagining a pretty sunny day with the sun being pretty much overhead so that the bottom of the belly is in shade the rock will actually reflect some light up back into that belly. And that's why I'm adding a bit of warm color in that. That's the rock reflecting back up. I'm going to take my time because I haven't got a lot of area to create a lot of interest. I want to make sure that pretty much every brush stroke counts and that every brush stroke has got a little bit of variation in it. That will just create a much more interesting texture. I'm going to add a bit more of my ultramarine blue in there and then continue along the same idea of making everything that's white, just a really light gray. Once we get to the wings, which are quite dark, we'll create that contrast so that it still appears to be white. Might also leave some parts of the head white just to create the impression of light. Okay. I'm taking my time. I want to make sure that I stick to the lines in this instance. Especially with animals and people, you've got to get the proportions quite right. So if you have a pencil sketched and I might as well stick to it, it doesn't matter if you go a little bit in or out as you know, I'm sure you already that advanced yourself to know when to stick within the lines and when you can break the rules. At this first stage, I'm going to keep the edges quite soft. So you can see the breast that are painted there. I soften that out. I don't want any hard lines just yet. I leave that for the contrast, strong contrast areas and where the shadows are really dominant. The legs are dark. The local color is obviously quite strong. But in my setup, the legs are pretty much in shade. The bird is casting the shadow onto its own legs so I can go quite dark there. Feet are always a bit tricky with birds and humans and any kind of animals. I generally like to hide them. Either they're blending in with the ground or they're hidden or in the grass, that kind of idea where you don't have to be too worried about the accuracy of feet, paws, claws, whatever they are. Moving on to the tail feathers. Again, there is some white in the feathers, which in my instance will be it is really light blue gray. Now I'm mixing a warm orange for the beak because that is a dry area at the moment. I can safely go into there, and I've just added a bit of quin acon gold to my burned sienna give it a lovely glowing orange color. I'll start with the be underside. With a bit of stronger pigment, and then I take off a bit of the paint. And then have it lighter at the top because the sunlight hitting it from above. I got a bit of three dimension alergy in there to strengthen that bottom bit beaks strong identifier of a bird, you've got to get beaks. The beak of a seglls quite distinct in the shape and a lot of birds have very distinct beaks. That's one area where you can really make your bird like whatever species it is. Now I'm going to paint a rock just because I've got some paint there on my palette sitting in looking for areas that I can paint while the rest of it is still drying. Often, I don't actually make brush strokes, but I deposit pigment onto the paper and then just let the water mix and mingle with the paint. I'm continuing with the wings. Mixing my warm gray with t Marin and burned sienna, which are pretty much used for everything else already. It's a very classic mix. I'm sure you've already familiar with it, but it's definitely one of my favorites because it's making such a nice gray can go all the way to almost black. Just by changing the ratio between the t Marin and the burniena I can make a warm gray or a cool gray or a neutral gray. Now I'm adding a lot more pigment to it because I'm getting to the black parts of the wing feathers. And you can see that I'm taking my time, even though it's a small bird and a relatively simple painting, I want to use every opportunity to make every area as interesting as possible. I just had a look at my reference photo just to make sure that I know where to leave out a little bit of white to create that wing texture. Then adding in the tail feathers. Which are darker. Again, because there's less light, but also because they are darker feathers. I'm sticking to my drawing again because the proportions have to be right. The bird needs to be nicely balanced on its legs. It's the center of gravity there. If it's too long or too short, it will feel unbalanced and uncomfortable to look at. I want to paint feathers without painting feathers, especially for the wings. Because once you start with detailed feathers in turns into a very different painting, I want it to be quite impressionistic, a few more blobs to the rock. I'm going to use a bit of that yellow color but also in the eye, Segal eyes a yellowy orange color. I'm going to paint that first and then also strengthen the beak a bit. You can see I've moved on to a very fine brush there. This is a large painting. I do need some finer details in there that I couldn't achieve with a big brush or a normal brush. I've got a few really fine bruh, double zeros and triple zeros, which are good for those tiny details like eyes and pointy bits like beaks. Back to my normal brush or bigger brush, not normal. Still a relatively small brush, but not as tiny as the other one. There's a shadow that the beak casts almost at the edge of the bird, and that is quite a strong element in the painting. So I painted that shadow, and then continued that underneath the head there at the back, but I'm going to soften that out because there's no hard shadows in the face. The only heart shadow is that beak shadow. Again, I'm taking my time. This is a really crucial design element of this particular bird painting because it's the shadow of the beak and the shadow at the back of the neck that really sculpts this bird and shows where the lights coming from and how strong the light really is. You can now tell that the sun's right above the bird. It's almost vertical light falling down. Now it makes sense where the shadow on the rock is off the bird, now it makes sense that the belly is quite dark and the legs are in shade. It's probably what I like most about this particular painting is how the shadows are creating this impression of the bird standing in the midday sun on the rock. Now using my super fine brush again, very subtle outline of the eye. And I'm taking my time with the eyes because they are the focal point. Of any living object that's got eyes. We are magically drawn to look things in the eye. I got to make sure that I get that right. I put in the pupil now and the same care needs to be taken there because where you put the pupil within the circle of the eye is where the birds going to look closely to the front. It's going to look forward, closer to the back. It's going to look backwards. You've got to take good care about where you exactly placed that pupil. I'm going to add a couple of more marks on the beak with that same color on a few fine shadows here and there. Then I'm just going to strengthen that beak a little bit, making sure that the light is adequately represented, and that's it by Segal is finished. I hope you enjoyed this video and you used the reference to paint your own. 7. Demo - Red Robin: I'm going to paint this little Robin and the techniques I'll show we work for any kind of bird painting. You can download the PDF with the outlines that you can trace, if that makes it a bit easier for you and please leave a comment if you have any questions or feedback. Trace my bird and I have a limited palette today. I'll start off with cadmium red light for the forehead, where the red robins have this beautiful patch of red feathers as so often, I will apply a dollp of paint and then come in with a clean brush to soften the edge. I continue in doing the same for the breast area, which is really the focus of this painting. That's what makes Dispert special. Then I'm going to use a bit of my yellow to give the red a bit more warmth and also to have some color variation in there. Clean brush, take the water out, and then soften the edges. At this point, I don't want any hard edges just yet, except for the side of the bird, obviously, but not the feathers on the bird itself. While the paint is wet, dropping a few darker versions of that red, so I've just toned it down with a bit of my burn number. I'm using a sable brush, which is natural hair, so I can create a bit of feather texture. You can see there at the bottom of that breast area. I've extended that red a le bit with a bit of dry brush. And then I'm using my ultimo blue and burnt umber to mix a gray or sort of, you know, a very desaturated brown and start with some of the tail feathers that are sitting under the wing. I'm using small brushes. This is a small painting, small size. I when I come in with too big of a brush, I need a little bit of control, especially for birds. But landscapes, it's a different thing. I can use big and bolt brushes. But when I paint animals such as birds, I want to have good control. You can see I'm trying to create the same texture with my synthetic round brush there, but it doesn't quite work. Synthetic brushes spring back to a point immediately. I gave up on that idea, and then I mixed a darker version. Of my brown and then come back to the head. That red top of the head is pretty much dry because it's a small painting, we're not using a lot of water that dries really quickly. I can work on different parts of the bird, start with strong pigment and then come in with more water, either a clean brush or a weaker version of the same color. Just to soften that out and create some variation in the color. That indicates light. I've now switched over to a third brush. I couldn't really make up my mind, which was the best brush. This is a goat hair brush, another natural hair brush so that I can get a bit more feathery texture into my brush stroke. That's something you can't really achieve with synthetic brushes. Unfortunately, that's one way I have to resort back to a natural hair brush. This is what I'm talking about. You can see there how the bristles separate and I can create fur or feather texture quite easily. Time to move on to the wing in similar fashion, creating a bit of a texted brush there. Use a darker color now for that bottom part of the wing. That's a bit of a shadow. I'm just going to hint at feathers here. I don't paint feathers, generally speaking. Just use different shades of my brown blue mix and leave some white gaps to hint at some white feathers poking through as well and then finish off the top of the tail. Back to my small synthetic round brush that's got a really good point. Great for details like the legs and feet, things like that. Moving on to the other leg. Okay, you can see the bird is sitting on a branch. So part of the foot is hidden. Now it's time to move on to the beak. Same colors again. This cool gray, don't we mixed. I'll start with the underside of the beak and then clean my brush. Let's pick up a lighter version of that same color for the top. You can see in the corner of the ba I added the bit of red. Then I add the bronch. Much stronger version of the same color again, load my calligraphy brush because it's allowing me to create these textures because the bristles they separate as you could see earlier. And then I'm ready for the eye. I always like to preserve the highlight where possible, with the white paper, but sometimes like this time, I don't manage it and I paint over it. I did manage to leave a tiny bit of white in the eye, but I need to have that highlight a bit bigger, so I'm dropping in a bit of white quash. I'm mixing some of my brownish gray mix into that white guash. The eyes of birds have got a ring around them, which is a bit of skin really. That also helps increasing the contrast of the eyeball. And then for final touch on the beak, I have to add a little nostriil there so the bird can breathe. Now I'm coming back to add a bit more fettery texture on the cheek. I'm also going to add a few splatters around the bird. I always like adding a bit of texture, especially when there's no background, just to create a bit more visual interest. Now, I decided that my red breasted robin wasn't quite red breasted enough, so I'm going to glaze over a bit more of my mum light over it. But it's transparent enough for the underlying wash to come through once it's dry. Just making sure matching that edge there and then with a clean damp brush, pick up a bit of the color, but also soften the edge a bit. That's the bird finished. All that's left to do is to pop on a signature. Now, if you are using my template, you don't have to paint a red robin. You can use the same shape for a sparrow or any other song bird that you can find a reference for. I hope you'll try it out in good luck, and thanks for watching. 8. Wrap up: Well, you've made it to the end. Congratulations, hopefully you enjoyed this class and managed to paint along with me and created some beautiful artwork. I would love to see it so please share your project with me, and I will give you some personal feedback on it if that's what you would like. I would also be very grateful if you could leave a review or give me some feedback on my course, anything that I can do better next time, that would really help me out. You can find me also on YouTube and on Instagram. There should be some links around here where you can find me there, and I'm always sharing tips and tricks and new demos for free as well. So thanks again. I hope you enjoyed this one, and so you're in the next class.