Live Edge Resin Ocean Painting

1. Introduction: Hi, I'm Tara family. I'm an artist and art instructor living in the wilds of me. When I'm not enjoying everything that migrate State has to offer, I can usually be found in my studio making all kinds of art. I enjoy a variety of artistic pursuits that include acrylic painting, jelly, printmaking, jewelry making, and glass and resin art. The genome of that main has more coastline than California. Today's class is inspired by that ocean. We'll learn to make a beautiful resin ocean painting on a piece of live edge would lie. That's just means that the bark is left on the wood and I think it lends more interest in character to a resin ocean painting. You don't need any experience in R or resin in order to take this class. However, resin is not appropriate for children. Working with resin does require a well ventilated workspace free of interruptions. Because once you mix resin, you can't store it or set it aside, you have to use it right away. And therefore, it's going to be crucial for you to watch the entire class so that you can understand what's involved before embarking on the project, which is your very own live edge resin piece. Once you've familiarized yourself with the process and you're workspaces prepared, then you can watch the class again to finalize the concept before you get started. Once you start, there are no brakes until it's done. You're going to need to turn off your phone, put the dog away, and make sure that you're ready to dedicate this time to the resin process. I find that the resin mixing, pouring and manipulation process takes me about 40 minutes from start to finish. And then your peace must lay undisturbed to cure for 24 hours. The most important advice that I could give anyone working with resin is to be mindful and prepared. You just wanna go quickly but don't rush. Alright, let's dive in and learn how to work with resin. 2. Class Project and Materials: I'll write the supplies you'll need for this class are a rimmed cookie sheet of some kinds you can get yours at the dollar store. The rim will keep things from spilling off onto your surface. You'll want to cover your suffers with plastic. And then I like to put freezer paper that's plastic coated with a plastic side up inside of my cookie sheet. You may need to tape this down so it doesn't roll into the center. And then next shell need gloves and several pairs of gloves in case you need to change them. And some kind of respirator or a well ventilated area. I know that it's not a good time for respirators right now. Paper towels and lots of them. You'll need to wipe your gloves off anytime you get resin on them. And then the live edged would it this is a basswood country round from Michael's. You don't want to use what you cut yourself because it's not cured. It's got moisture in it. It can crack and it's too rough. We need a nice smooth surface for this. And everything that I have used so far have been these basswood rounds or basswood planks. I'll show you some of the previous ones I've done here. This one is on the basswood round. I just have some cork on the back. And when I look at these, I'm looking for the direction of the bark and I'm looking at the general shape. I like the way the White looks as it goes down over the bark. This one is a mahogany cutting board that I got at TJ Maxx. And they can have some really great wood pieces there in the kitchen section. This cutting board has very straight sides and so the bark isn't as interesting, but I still really like it. This is a basswood plank from Amazon and I love the way that it's got a different shape in the front. This came as one piece and I cut them in half. You could leave it hole and that would look great. But what I'm looking for is variation and bark variation in shape. I want it to be interesting and I want to have that beautiful cascading water coming down. Because to me it reminds me of rocks at the beach. This board has some interesting bark on it. At the boards don't always have interesting bark and you may not like the back edge, but I hang these on the wall and it doesn't show up, so it's no problem. This one has the least interesting bark of all of the planks that I have. And this one here, I like the general shape of it. It's also cut on the diagonal. So I put the part that's visible in the front where the beaches. You're gonna need push pins to put in the back of your piece to hold it up off of your surface to keep it out of the resin as it cures. Otherwise it will just stick. Speaking of sticks, I use these wooden craft sticks to stir my resin. The big one I use to stir the resin to mix it. And the smaller ones I use for the colors, a skewer or toothpick. And I use dollar store tweezers to place my shells and to get any hairs out. This is a deli container. It's nice and sturdy and I sometimes mixed resin in those, but more often than not, I use the great value brand, straight sided cups from Walmart. They're smooth sided, not straight sided. And that's a nine ounce cup there. You never want to use Solo cups. And you're going to need three of these little miniature shot glasses from the dollar store in order to make sure colors you don't wanna make sure color in a big giant cup. You'll need some kind of paintbrush because we need to seal this wood and you can use mod podge. You can use some kind of gel medium or matte medium. It doesn't matter what the finishes. You just want to paint it on the front there of your wood piece to keep it from causing bubbles to form in your resonance at cures. And here's the resin I use in vertex light. It comes in at eight fluid ounce container, or I will get the 32 ounce container because I do quite a bit with resin. It comes in two parts. The hardener has the black tap and the resident has the white top. And they're mixed in a ratio of one to one. And I'll show you how to do that. You could also use art resin. It just needs to be two-part epoxy resin. You'll need some kind of a heat gun. I use an bossing tool from Michael's. It's usually found in the rubber stamp aisle. I haven't used a hardware store heat gun, but I know some people do. And then our colors here I am showing you that you can really use any kind of acrylic paint. I like to use paint rather than ink for this because I need it to be a little bit more opaque. I really like the golden fluid acrylics and you definitely need titanium white to make your waves. Or you can use Jaccard pin yada brand, white alcohol, Inc. in Blanco, Blanco. And you can get that on Amazon. To decorate your beach. You might want to use some little starfish or shells, stones, rocks. You don't wanna use giant shells like the ones in this piece of art there, too big for what we're doing. You want to find the little miniature ones. And I have good luck finding miniature stuff like these little white and peach colored rocks and coarse sand and these little river rocks in the part of the craft store that sells the little villages that you can build like the ferry villages are the Christmas villages. And the C-class that I held up before in the bag is from the aquarium section at Wal-Mart. You'll need some extra cups or something that you can use to cover your piece up to protect it from anything that might fall on it like dust or hair. Your resin cures, it doesn't dry, so it's not a big deal to cover it up. You just want to make sure nothing touches it and you'll want to protect it from not naming any names. You may want some painter's tape to tape down your freezer paper because sometimes it will curl and don't forget to have a skewer or something because you're gonna get hair in, eras in, and you're going to need a garbage can nearby. I usually put it right in the front of my work area so I can throw things away. Don is a great way to clean up if you get any resin on yourself, but you should really endeavor not to get any resident on yourself in. You should buy that token, aggressively, restrain your hair. And it make sure you don't have any jewelry that's hanging down and he loose clothing. Anything that is going to hang down and drag through that resin is something you want to deal with a head of time. You don't want to be trying to take that off. You have resonate gloves on. You also want to put your phone away. You're not going to pick your phone up with Resnick gloves. Alright, so this is the coarse sand I was mentioning earlier about the ferry villages and the smaller little items you can also find usually small shells in the jewelry section. Okay, coming up, we're going to learn how to choose colors and composition for our project. 3. Choosing Composition and Colors: Okay, let's talk about composition before we discuss color, because the color is going to inform our composition. Here you can see a stock video of beach with breaking waves. And I want to point out a couple of things about the way that the waves break. The waves don't come in, in a solidly unbroken line and they don't stay the same shape. There not a flat line. There's curves and the waves advance and retract at different speeds. But you can see at the top those waves are breaking and they're leaving behind some foam on the surface of the greenish water. When we create our resin ocean, that foam is going to be called leasing because it looks a little bit like lease. Our composition is going to be as if we're looking down from the sky, not from the side as you see here. This particular video is one of my favorites because if you notice those rocks are brown and they really do look like the bark on the tree. And you can see how the white foam of the waves as it breaks over those rocks leaves little river collatz of color that get into all those little creases and really make it look cool. And this is what I love about using live edge wood to make a resin ocean painting. The main thing that I want to convey with these ocean scenes that I'm showing you is number one, the colour. Number two, the way that the waves are shaped. And number three is value the distant water as darker and the areas underneath the waves as they begin to break is also darker. You're not going to try to create anything more than a darker distance and a lighter foreground. And then the waves themselves, the white foam that we're going to put on is going to give this piece it's life. If we look at the big roundish piece in the center, the top color, the darker value is a silo turquoise, and the warmer, lighter value directly underneath it is aqua green or bright aqua green. Over to the right, the two round ones on the far right are both made using ultramarine blue and Cerulean Blue. And then for the two planks, the top one is ultramarine blue and certainly in blue, and the bottom one is failover blue at the top and bright ako green at the bottom. You can combine these colors and any way that you like. You just want to have the far or top part of your ocean To be the darker value and the part that's coming onto the beach being the lighter part because you're closer to it so it's going to appear lighter. Okay. Coming up, we're going to prepare the wood. 4. Preparing Live Edge Wood: Okay, let's prepare this. Would I've got my work area all set up. I have my plastic down, I have my tray there, and it's lined with the freezer paper. And now I need to determine which side of the wood I'm going to work on. Let's take a look at some of these pieces I've done in the past. The system mahogany cutting board. And as you can see, the sides are pretty straight up and down. It's got a nice shape to it, but there's really not much going on in terms of the bark. So for this, it was really just what direction am I going to orient. Whereas this basswood round head, more going on with the bark. It's flutter in the back and a little bit more visible in the front. Usually these pieces can sometimes be slightly cut on the diagonal, but this one is rather flat. As we look at these two basswood planks, the top one has a skinnier amount of bark and the bottom one has more. And as you can see, there's not much going on. On the other side. You're going to want to look at each piece back to front and determine which side has the more interesting bark on it. And so for this piece, if you look close, you can see how the white looks as it goes over that bark and I'm not missing out on any of that on the back. This is my favorite piece by far. I love this area here. I love the way that the white looks going down over that bark. And I also like that. It's not as as kind of got a curve there. It's not as straight as the other ones. And that area of interest is just making that piece for me. I really love it. By the way, this was one piece of wood that I had my husband cut in half. And so you may like to keep it together if that's what you prefer. Okay, so back to my piece. I'm gonna work on this side. So now all I need to do is put some push pins in the back, which will raise my piece up out of any resin that might pull in the freezer paper later. You could just put your piece of wood on top of upturned cup or something. But the reason I like the pushpins is that I don't have to worry about accidentally knocking it over later. So these pushpins are going to keep it study and I use sonic, put them in about an inch or so from the edge. If I'm too close to the edge, I can add risk accidentally knocking the bark off. And if they're too far to the center, then the piece is going to be wobbly. Sometimes they need a little hammer to get them in there, but basswood is very soft and so for the most part I could just push them right in. You want to be careful using a hammer though, because pushpins are generally plastic and you don't want to break them. So just give it a little push and make sure that it's level and then we're ready to start sealing the wood. Just brush it off. I'm going to use mod podge. It doesn't matter if it's matte gloss because it's not going to show. I'm just gonna use a flat brush to apply this and the surface, like I said, in the materials you could use gel medium, you could use some water down Elmore's glue, all not school glue. And the goal here is just to cover the surface of your wood from the center out. Because if you start at the edge and work inward, you're gonna get a bunch of dirt stuck to your brush. And then that's going to be on the part of the wood that you want to leave nice and clean Azure beach later on. You can see here that a little bit of that outer bark got pulled into the center there. And it's not a big deal. I can just scrape that off and re seal that area. It may not matter because it may not show up later depending on where your color ends up. I've sealed all the wood that I've done. Whereas an oceans on except that mahogany cutting board, because the mahogany was such a dense wood, it didn't seem to need it and I didn't get any bubbles in that. Alright, so we're just going to let this dry and it really doesn't have to dry overnight though I tend to let it dry overnight. The next thing to do is to get everything ready for mixing and pouring your resin. I'll see you in the next video where we'll get that set up. 5. How I Measure 2-Part Epoxy Resin: Okay, let's measure. In order to measure resin, I use a little system I developed. And it first starts out with figuring out what size cup I need. This is the great value brand from Walmart plastic cup, and it's about a nine ounce cup. I wouldn't use anything much bigger than that. But she also wanted I don't want to use a cup that's too small. You're going to need a regular measuring cup. Or if you have one of these little measuring shot glasses, you might be able to use that depending on how many ounces it holds. This is by anchor and they sell these a lot of discount stores. And they have the ounces up the side here. So you wanna figure out the total amount of revenue you're going to need, and then you're going to divide that in half because this is a two part resin. So if I am going to use five total ounces, I'm gonna need to measure 2.5 ounces of water, pour it into my plastic cup and draw a line. And then I pour that back into the measuring cup, pour 2.5 more ounces of water in, and then pour that back into my plastic cup and draw another line. That might seem like a complicated system, but it works for me and I am not using plastic measuring containers that are designed for resin. I'm using these disposable cups. You can find containers designed specifically for mixing resin and use those if that works better for you. So here I have 2.5 ounces of water in my cup. And just using a sharpie marker, I'm going to get down. I level and draw a line around the top of the water. I usually just hold the pen in place and twist the cup. Doesn't have to be a perfect line. It just needs to be pretty close so that you can make sure that you get the right amount. The biggest problem you're gonna ever have with horizon is not getting the right ratio of resonant hardener, which could then cause your resin to not cure. So I've poured that 2.5 ounces of water back into my measuring cup and ran back over to the sink to fill that up to five total ounces, pouring that back into the plastic cup. And then I'll draw another line. And then after that, I'll try this out completely and I'll be able to pour one part of resin or hardener in the bottom. And then on top of that, whichever I didn't poor at first, and that will give me five total ounces. And this way, I don't have to mess around with trying to measure actual resin. And it's because it's so thick and it could just make a mess. I am guaranteed to get the right amount if I do it this way. You wanna mix a little bit more resin than you think you're gonna need because you are not going to want to have to stop and re-mix resin during your project. Just drawing that out very well. So I don't want any water at all to mess up my resin. So that's why we really don't need five ounces, but it's better to have a little bit extra just in case. Ok, we're getting ready to do this project. Once we get to the next video, we're going to pour and mix that resin. At that point were dedicated to seeing the project all the way through. So before you an act, the next video, you're going to want to make sure you have all your supplies, have your workspace ready, and have your hair tied back and everything ready to go. So you can go right through your project. If you're watching this class for the first time, you're going to need to watch it all the way to the end before you start the project, unless you're a seasoned resident artist. All right, let's get mixing. 6. Resin Ocean Process From Start to Finish: Okay, I am going to create this project from start to finish. Gloves. Gloves, gloves. Always wear gloves. You see I've my workspace setup. I have my freezer paper down. My wood is on its little pushpin legs. I have my colors up at the top already in my cups. I'm using the bright aqua green from artists laughed and I'm using fellow turquoise from Golden fluid acrylic. I'm going back to some old footage of resin pouring and mixing and I haven't sped up. You're gonna notice that my resident hardener is a little bit yellow, but when I pour in the resonance itself, it is not. As those two mixed together that yellowness will disappear. And I'm just showing you here that the resin when it's unmixed, looks almost cloudy, iridescent per lesson. And I'm about to speed it up again. And you're just going to mix by scraping the sides, scraping your steric, making sure you scrape the bottom. And you're going to mix this for two minutes, makes it slower than I'm doing because I'm sped up. You don't want to dislodge bubbles of resin out into the air. Remember to stop every now and then scrape your stick and then scrape the edges of the container. The packaging tells you see you can still see some iridescence there, so more, more mixing as required. The packaging will tell you to use a straight sided container. But what they really mean is a container that doesn't have a bunch of texture or grooves in the side. That way you can scrape the sides really well like you're seeing now. And be sure to get every bit of that resin and hardener incorporated. The biggest problem people have is not mixing the resin enough and if it's not completely mixed, it may not ever harden. So this is just about done. It's going to be full of bubbles, but it's going to be clear in you're not gonna see any threads of iridescence left in that bulls will disappear when we use the heat gun. They're gonna go away. All right, here we are. I've got my two shot glasses with my colors in them, just the two blue colors, white will come later. And I'm going to fill those shot glasses about three quarters of the way full. I want to have enough room to be able to mix without worrying that I'm going to overflow my container. I can pour the resin and both cups and then mix one color and then the other color with no problem. I'm gonna speed up that mixing. Be sure to leave about half the resin in the cup because we'll need that later. You're going to need clear resin for your beach and you're going to need some resin to add white to later on. As you mix your colors with your pain, you want to be sure that you get all the paint Incorporated and that you can't see. A lot of the detail of the wood from the stick through the resin. Because if you can see that, then I'm going to be able to see that big area in the back there of discoloration on my board. I adding just a little bit more of the Thaler green and yellow, blue to make it feel turquoise so that it covers up the stick a little bit better. And I'm happier with that. The bright aqua green color which is coming up here, has a little bit of titanium white in it, right out of the tube. And that makes it quite opaque to begin with. So this is a little bit easier too. Next up, but you just wanna make sure that when you look at that, you're not seeing any of the paint's still visible as like threads in the resin. Okay. Clear up your area and now just dump that blue resin on the back and quickly kinda drag it close to the edge but not over the edge. I had to start a whole other project and refill meant because it was out of focus and I can't touch my phone with resin hands. So here I am. Now. I have that darker value in the back and I'm placing my bright aqua green along the edge of that darker value. I want them to eventually touch. So once I get it out of the cup, I'm just going to use my stick to kind of get it up there so that they're both touching. And I'm not worried right now too much about how this looks or the shape of it, because that shaping is all going to really be done with the heat gun. Just skip the rest of that out there and then I need to apply the clear the clear resin is going to give the resin all of it away to flow forward and allow the heavy opacity of that quick rain to thin out a little bit as it goes towards the beach. Now I've got my heat gun and my goal here is to warm this resin gently and to get all of the bubbles out. And I'm keeping the heat gun moving. I'm not holding it in any one position. If I see an area where the resonance and touching, I can use my skewer ticket that touching and then I just want to warm it up and then once it starts to shimmer like that and you see those ripples happening, that's when you can begin to move the resin. I just took a hair out with the skewer. It's going to be good to have a skewer handy or toothpick. Because if you live in a house with a cat like foes, Mickey are gonna have some hairs in your resin. So now you can see that the two colors of resin are co-mingling a little and it's flowing quite nicely. Also, please note that I have turned the piece around before I used my heat gun, so that the heat gun will encourage the colors to move forward and I won't get my heat gun chord in the resin. Are right. I put a little bit of Titanium weigh in with some resin. I'm just mixing them together. And now I'm going to start working on my waves by starting on the transition between the darkest blue and the lighter blue. And I saved a good amount of the clear because I might need that later. Okay. And now I want to warm that white residents so that it's the same consistency as the resin underneath it. And I'm going to now try to encourage that resin to move forward by using my heat gun and warming it and really directing my heat gun right at that white without getting too close, without staying in one place too long, and without touching the resin. I'm also not having all my white going forward. Some of it you'll notice is coming backwards because that will give me the illusion of a breaking wave. Okay, here we go with the second wave, which I am calling the advancing wave. And that is the wave that goes between the aqua green and the clear resin. And now I'm going to do the same thing. I'm going to just heat up my resin, gently warming it. I have a little ribbon of resin that went from where I applied that front into the back and I warmed that a little. I'll get rid of that later. I'm just moving it very quickly. This is not sped up by the way, that's how fast I really fit. And I'm directing this white. I like to do the advancing wave kind of back toward the water first because as you can see, everything is getting very close to the edge. And this design. I like to have some, some beach so I don't want to cover my entire piece of wood with color. I just added a little bit more white and then I am adding a bit in the back. Because generally, other than the divisions between dark and light blue, light blue and clear, I like there to be one or two or three waves. Very much smaller way in the back. And I'll show you what that looks like in a minute. I just kinda have to work fast here. There's not time when you work with resin to mess around with camera angles, you're just doing your best because it's a really kind of, it's a little stressful to try to film it while you're doing it. Alright, so in the front there you can see that my front wave still has a little bit of division between the two pieces of white and the bright aqua green. So I can put some more clear resin onto that beach. And I'm also taking the time right now to just add some dripping down over the edge. Because when I go back with the heat gun here, i want that white to be able to go down over the edge and also clear resin on the edges. It's going to help the bark to stay on later. And don't worry about that resin that has dripped off on to the freezer paper that's just find some resin is always going to drip off. Alright, so I'm just dotting a little bit more white in here. But at this point, my resin is starting to cure up and it's getting hard to work with. So when you've reached that point, it's much better to stop and kind of let it be. You can always come back tomorrow and do a second layer of clear and put some more waves on. But I was bound and determined to try to fix that. And what ended up happening. And I'm showing this for a reason. You may not be able to see on your screen, but I was trying to work that resin a little bit too much and it did start to smoke a little bit. It's not going to catch on fire, but it's not good to have these fumes, so you don't want to push it once the resin isn't really moving anymore, you're going to just need to stop. And I will show you how to apply that second coat of resin with some more waves on another video. Because I think that, that's a useful skill to know one way or the other. Now, I have my little do dads all picked out and I'm going to start applying them with my dollar store tweezers. If you aren't going to come back tomorrow and put another layer on this, it's best not to put your dude ads on today. You could put them on tomorrow or it doesn't have to be tomorrow. It can be weeks or even a year from now. But if you're if you're going to put a second coat on, those shells could get in the way. And so it's better to apply them when you apply your second coat. The Dollar Store tweezers or great. She don't have to worry about ruining them. And I'm just putting those shells strategically where I if there's flaw or an area of my resident that I don't like as much. Now I can use these to cover that up. But I I'm pretty happy with how this looks. And so I'm just kinda going for a balance and I'm building right now on that side a little platform for my little starfish. And now I'm gonna take a little bit of a leftover clear resin and it's very thick because it's setting up and I'm just going to try to get a little bit of resin on top of that starfish. I feel that the starfish need to be encased in resin. That's just my personal preference because they're little organic beings and they could deteriorate if they ever get moisture. All right, so this is done for now and I'm just going to cover it up. So what you wanna do is have some clean thing that you can put over top of it. I don't use anything that can drape down and touch the resin. And I'm just using some cups that I keep around for this purpose and I can put them down and not worry too much if they get resonance on them. But what I don't want is for them to touch my piece. So I've gotta kind of fiddle around with this a little bit and make it so that this plastic drawer that I'm putting up there is going to cover my piece and shelter at from anything that might fall from above. But that's not going to tip over or fall or of land in my resin. This piece is going to sit undisturbed for 24 hours. I'm not going to pick up my lid and look at it. I'm definitely not gonna touch it because that will be a big mess. So resist touching it and leave it in place for 24 hours. All right, come back and let's look at how it looks. 7. The Reveal Plus Optional Second Coat - Troubleshooting: Okay, it's day two, and I'm not happy with my piece. It's very dull. It seems like maybe I put too much paint in when I did the white and the colors. And there's a lot of dust in the surface. Whereas this one I did in the past, look how glossy it as you can see, the light reflecting on it so nicely that one goes more to one side. And I really loved the way the lacing looks on this one that I did previously. See that lay saying, See how it kind of flows over top of the white acrylic paint. The white acrylic paint is what I used the first time. A port that and then the pin yada alcohol ink is less. So I've got this solid white wave action on the piece I did yesterday, and it looks good, but it will definitely benefit from some lacing. So I've got my cup out here and I'm gonna pour and mixed 2.5 total ounces of resin. I don't need any more of that because I'm just gonna do a thin coat of clear and a little bit of light waves. I want to point out that before you'll apply your resonance, if you've handled your peace with your bare hands, you may need to gently wipe the surface with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol or rubbing alcohol because your finger oils could cause the resin to resist. So I have my two ounce or 2.5 total ounces here. And I'm going to speed this up so I can mix this. I'm just showing you again that sort of pearlescent and I'm going to zip through mixing this up. I also noticed as I was filming this, the source of the dust on my piece from today, I had thought that perhaps I put too much paint in the resin yesterday, and that may be the case. Having too much paint in the resident can make it cure faster and it can make it cure dollar. So I think there may have been a tiny bet, too much paint in the resin. But the reason I got dust all over my piece is because in the course of filming, I wiped my hands off with paper towels many times. And I happen to do that right over top of my piece, which I would never do in real life. I only do it when I film. See you're just gonna wanna wipe your hands off to the side. The irony is that one of the reasons I'm doing a second coat is that I want to get the dust out and then I go put it back on by wiping my hands off over top the piece. So here's my alcohol Inc. and I need to shake that up. I tried to dispense some in. It wasn't coming out with the pigment. I have to pry open a top and put a little bead in there so that there's like a ball and narrative shake this up so that the pigment gets mixed. And I'm going to use about 20 drops. I want this white resin to be slightly more transparent than that heavily opaque titanium white that's already on the piece. All right, that looks good. Stir that up a little bit more and I'm going to put it on there. So first what I have to do is get my clear ready. It's all mixed. Got my gun here minute. Turn us around in a minute just like before, and just dump all that clear right on their spread it around. I want to get it out to the edges if I can. I don't want to spend a lot of time doing this, but I want to make sure that I am not going to have any areas of my piece that don't have clear on them because while the invariants hex Light is a self-leveling resin, it may leave or rich if there is an area close to the edge that doesn't have the resonance spread right out. So once I get that spread, then I will just do. Oh yes, here is the source of the dust. See that? Using my paper towel right on top of my work. So I'm just getting that bubbles out again. Getting it towards the edge there. There may have been some finger oils on there and I'm just reminding you about that isopropyl alcohol, which of course you would use prior to applying the resin? I'm trying to get There was a hair in it, so I use my skewer. And now I'm just trying to mix the lint from the paper towel into the resin so that it doesn't pock mark the surface. Obviously, it would be much better just to not get in your resin. And now we all know not to wipe our hands off directly above our peace. That's the joy of filming yourself. You see things that you may not normally see. Okay, just created bubbles when I stirred in that Lint. So I'm getting rid of those bubbles. And then I'm going to go right in with my newly mixed white alcohol Inc. and resin. And this is going to allow me to get some of that beautiful lacing on my piece. Now you can put this anywhere if you've already done your piece and you just wish that you had say, a bit more wave in the back there. There's nothing to say that you have to go over every single solitary wave that you already did. This is just Option for you if you want to add more or if you want to enhance what's already there. So just like before, we're going to just get that white residents to be warmed up again so that it will flow. And you're just gonna direct it around with your heat gun, the, with the air coming out of your heat gun and just encourage it to sort of spread out over the surface. Now the beautiful thing about applying just a coat of clear with way is that if you end up not liking some of it, you can swipe it off. Right there. I'm blowing some of it over the edge and eventually I'm going to take that back part off, just swipe it off with a stick. I have a little bit of clear left. I always keep some clear. And you can decide up didn't like that. I'm going to put some more clear on there and do something different with that. Later. I decided instead to work on this wave and see what I could make happen with that. And then I saw that this was bumpy, so I'm going to encourage it to flatten out the resonant in the back there will level, especially once I put the heat on it a little bit and then I have a little bit of actual resin if I need to fill it in. So I'm already really liking what's happening here. And you'll notice right there, as I've removed my gun, you could still see that white lacing out and I just felt like there was a little bit over there that wanted to be just a tiny bit more wispy. So I put my skewer through it and making sure I didn't use the skewer that had the hair on it. And then just heated that again with my gun to try to encourage that to whisk out a bit. Alright, so now I'm going to work again on this advancing wave. You might notice right now on the beach there's a kind of little disembodied of white there. And I'm also putting less white on the back than I had originally put on. I just want there to be a little color there, but not a huge amount. And I end up liking that just fine. So now I'm down here getting my resin warmed. If you find your white resin is just looking kind of fluffy and not incorporating with its surroundings. It just needs to be warmed a bit. And I thought I might see what it looks like to have some of my foam coming around my little do dads. You'll remember in the last video I said that if you're going to put a second cohen, It would probably be better to not do it with the do dads on. But I was thinking about how I know the foam on the ocean looks when there are rocks and things sitting in it and how it kind of streams around them. And I wanted to try to show that. And then that was my sign to say, don't overwork your piece. There comes a time where you just have to stop and good enough has to be good enough. Two things that I did after I just encouraged a little bit of that. I wanted that to flow over onto the bark. And then I thought, well, I'll put a little bit more of this over here on the bark. But what I notice about this piece compared to my other piece up in the upper left-hand corner there is that I felt like it was lacking something, that little red heart up there really gave my previous piece some interests. And I, after I stopped filming, I added this cute little orange starfish and that really did it for me. And then I had a flaw over here. And so I added a little bit, of course stand to that. I don't know why all of that stuff is shimmering like there's glitter on it. Because there's no glitter on it. But I think it might have been because of how I was filming it. I'm pretty happy with how this turned out. I definitely feel like it was worth it to do the second coat and to get that leasing on there. It just made the piece. I didn't like it. And now I do. I just wanted to add this little bit of extra footage. This is the cutting board selection at TJ Maxx. And I just thought that some of those would make really awesome resin oceans. They end up being less expensive than the basswood rounds. There are about 599. They don't have exactly bark on it, but they do have some bark and they're really beautiful pieces of wood. I don't even think they'd have to be sealed. Okay. Coming up in the next video, I'm going to wrap things up. 8. Outtro: Advice For Success: Okay, so I hope you enjoyed this class and I hope that you'll watch it all the way through. I just want to make sure that you understand the pitfalls with working with resin. Working with resin once you've done it and you get over that initial fear, it's totally easy and anyone can do it. So if you have any questions at all, post them down below. I'll get back to you as soon as I can. Just one last warning that I I'm not sure I'd mentioned in other videos the number one problem that I see students doing when they're working with resonant heat guns is they're not aware of how close the heat gun is to the resin. They're sticking that tip of the heat gun into the resin or the cord is dragging through and swiping away all their hard work. So you want to just be mindful and calm and pay attention to what you're doing and you're going to be totally fine. That and no solo cups, no styrofoam. Google in your country. If you don't live in the US, What type of container to mix resonant. And there are plenty of resin artists out there and you'll be able to find a video telling you which kinda container you should use. I really hope you'll post your projects in the project section. I would love to see them and just remember that if you're using the skill share app, you need to use the browser on your phone, so like Chrome or Safari, or use your computer to upload your project and also to access the project supply list in the discussions. So I look forward to seeing what you do and don't hesitate to reach out if you have any questions at all. Take care and I'll see you soon.