Linear Patterns in Procreate: Design a Lace Stripe

1. Class Overview: Hi, I'm Sue Gibbins, a surface pattern designer creating for fabric, wallpaper, and home decor. Linear patterns are some of my favorites to design and are always in demand for interiors. They range from simple stripes to intricate prints built from many details that somehow line up perfectly edge to edge. In this class, you'll learn how to build a reusable template in Procreate to create your own seamless linear repeats, including a lace inspired decorative stripe as your class project. I'll walk you through my entire process in Procreate. Every step is fully demonstrated. So if you're new to pattern design or the app, you're in good hands. If you're already experienced, there's still plenty here to enhance your workflow. For the class, you'll need an iPad, an Apple pencil, and the Procreate app. I'll provide a set of resources, including custom brushes, layout guides, colour palettes, and more. By the end, you won't just have one finish pattern. You'll have a whole process for designing linear patterns. Grab your iPad and let's get started. 2. Project Preview: L. After we've covered some basics of pattern layouts and set up a template, the main class project will be to create a stripe pattern. I'll be demonstrating a decorative lace like stripe. You're welcome to join me on that theme or choose a different one. To help you get started, there's a design guide covering style direction, color, motif, and layout suggestions. Alongside it, you'll find other resources to support your project, including palette files, wireframe layout guides, and Procreate brushes. You'll build your template and then use it to create a seamlessly repeating linear pattern, such as a lace stripe. Once it's ready, you'll use the pattern previewer tool to see your seamless repeat pattern at different sizes. Download an image of it and share that in the class gallery. To post your project from a web browser, go to Projects and Resources and click Submit Project. Add a project title and then upload your image or several images if you like. I'd also encourage you to add a few notes reflecting on your project or ask questions here if you'd like specific feedback from me or your fellow classmates. Once you're ready, scroll to the top of the page and click Publish or save draft if you'd like to come back later. After you've posted, take some time to look through what your classmates have made and consider leaving some positive feedback. It's a great way to connect and learn from each other's approach. I'm sure you're keen to get started. In the next lesson, we'll make sure you've got all the tools and resources you need close at hand before we begin. I'll see you there. 3. Tools & Resources: First of all, a quick reminder that you need an iPad, an Apple Pencil, and the Procreate app for this class. I'm using version 5.4 0.11, but so long as your version is fairly recent, it should be fine. Alongside the device and software, I've also put together some resources to support you in class. There are three wireframe layout guides we'll use in class, the horizontal stripe, the decorative stripe, and the diagonal wave. There's a design guide for the ace stripes project with suggested motifs and palettes. There's a Procreate swatches file with the suggested colour palettes inside. There are six free Procreate brushes, plus a PDF with links to my color palette Maker and pattern previewer web tools. As an extra thank you for taking this class, I'm offering some bonus resources. They're completely optional, but yours if you'd like them. I've added the pattern playbook, an eBook guide to layout frameworks for surface pattern design. There are also three additional wireframe layout guides, the horizontal wave, the vertical line, and a border print, plus a Procreate canvas with seamless fabric texture overlay. I'll put the link in the description. When you claim the bonus resources, they'll be sent to you by email. For your convenience, the email includes both the class resources and the bonus resources in one handy pack. If you'd rather not receive emails, no problem, everything necessary for the class can be downloaded directly in the resources section if you prefer. Once you've downloaded the resources, you can use your iPad share options to send them over to Procreate. The brush set will load automatically in your brush's library. The palette will appear at the end of your palettes list, so you may need to scroll down to find it. The other files will be added to your gallery, and I suggest you make a stack to keep them together for class. Make sure you have everything. Then in the next lesson, we'll take a quick look at some different types of linear pattern layouts. 4. Linear Pattern Layouts: Welcome back. In this class, we'll be focusing on linear pattern layouts where motifs are organized in lines that create a clear sense of direction. These types of designs are well suited to wallpaper, bedding and upholstery. We also see them on clothing, kitchen textiles and as coordinates that balance more complex prints. Let's take a look at various types of linear layouts. When we think of layouts based upon lines, stripes immediately spring to mind. Stripes can be simple or complex bands of color or motif running vertically, horizontally, or diagonally. Plaids are made up of both vertical and horizontal lines or thin bands crossing over each other. Zigzags have angular rhythmic lines that create more movement and energy. Waves also create movement, but the lines are curved and flowing, and so they soften the linear structure. Directional vines are composed of organic wave like lines leading the eye in a particular direction. The linear backbone usually has extra details attached, such as leaves or flowers, which give this type of layout a natural rhythm. Decorative stripes and borders are elaborate linear designs built from multiple motifs or ornamental bands. A stripe repeats its band continuously across the surface, whereas a border uses one band just at the edge. Linear layouts are fairly simple to construct yet offer endless possibilities for variation. Interest and character can be introduced in many ways, combining different line widths, clustering lines together, or adjusting density and spacing. A free hand approach feels looser and more organic, while precise linework feels clean and structured. Breaking up the lines through gaps, distressed texture or fading adds further variation. To begin with, we'll be making linear patterns that run vertically or horizontally and cross two opposite edges. Later on, I'll show you how to handle designs that cross all four edges, such as diagonal stripes. But in the next lesson, we'll start by creating a simple linear pattern template in procreate. I'll see you there. 5. Prepare a Linear Template: Mm hmm. Here we are in the Procreate app, and this is my stack where I'll keep my files for class. We're going to make a linear pattern template. First thing to do is create a new file with the plus icon and choose new Canvas from the top. For color profile, I'm going to keep it in RGB mode. Now for this lesson, I recommend you follow along with my dimensions. But after you learn the technique, you can make a template any size you like, and it can be square or rectangular. I want my template to be 3,600 pixels square, which is 12 " by 12 " at 300 DPI. The important thing at this stage is we actually create a file that is half the width of what our template will be in the end. I need to make a 6 " by 12 " file at this stage. I'll make sure it's 300 dpi, then tap the blue check icon to create the canvas. Once the file is created, I'm going to add a color fill. The color we choose here doesn't matter, but we need to be able to see it, something other than white, I'll select this blue from my palette. Now, tap the layers icon, tap layer one, and choose a fill layer. Now that we have that filled, I'm going to double the width of the canvas. To do this, tap the wrench icon, open up the actions menu, then choose Canvas, crop and resize and go into settings. I'm now going to set the width to 12 " since that's the size I want my file and my template to be. Leave resample canvas and snapping off, check its 300 DPI and then tick this icon here to commit that change. Now we can see that the color fill is exactly in one half of the canvas, the left half. We'll use this half Canvas color block to create the template. For the template to work, we need to add a layer below the color block and fill it with a different color such as white. Tap in the layers menu and add a new layer. Then when you get layer two, hold it and drag it below layer one. There we go. The color picker choose a different color, for example, this off white and then fill the whole layer with that color. We can now turn off Procreate's own background. The next step of creating our template is to group these layers together. Layer two already has a blue highlight showing that it's currently selected. If we nudge right on layer one, that layer will also be selected. Now that both layers are selected, we can group them. In my version of Procreate, the group option is underneath this layers menu here. I remember in older versions of Procreate though that when you selected multiple layers, the group option would appear somewhere up top here. Either way, once you've selected the layers, you should be able to find a group option, tap on it, and then you'll get new group with the two layers slightly indented showing that they belonged inside that group. Now we want to create the selections that allow us to use this as our template for repeat patterns. First tap on layer one with the color film and tap again to bring up the menu and then choose Select. With the color blocks selected, the selection tool bar will appear in the bottom of the screen. Tap on the heart icon with save and load, then tap the plus icon to save the left half of the Canvas as selection one. Tap the selection button at the top to deselect. We now want to do the same for the right side of the canvas, so we'll need to flip the whole thing over. To do this, open up the layers panel and tap on new group. This makes sure that both the color block and the base layer are in play. Tap on the transform icon, which is this arrow here, and you should see that the whole canvas is selected with these dotted marching lines around the edge. In the toolbar at the bottom of the screen, tap flip horizontal. The color block is now exactly in the right half of the canvas. If the color block doesn't flip over, then it's usually because the group isn't selected in the layers panel. Tap the transform button again to deselect. We'll repeat the procedure from earlier, but this time for the right side. We'll open up the layers panel and select the content of layer one, either via the menu like before or to be a bit quicker, we can hold down two fingers on the layer to select it like so. Once the selection tool bar appears, tap on the heart icon for save and load again, tap the plus icon to save the right side of the canvas as selection two. Tap the selection at the top to deselect. Now we just need to tidy this template up to make it easier to use. Make a new layer at the top above layer one, and I'm going to rename that something like artwork or draw here Woodwork we can also rename some of these other layers as well. This is our template group, color block. And this is our base. Now, optionally, we can also add a text layer right above the template group to write some helpful information so that when we see the file in our gallery, we know what it's for. So with that template layer selected, go to the Actions menu and tap Add and add text. I'm just going to make this box bigger and I'm going to change the color to something that's going to show up, so I'll choose something dark and tap in the text a couple of times to bring up the keyboard. I'm going to call this a bilateral template, which just means it's got two sides and it's for making linear patterns. I'm going to write the size. I like to work in inches, I'll call this 12 by 12 " at 300 DPI. But if you prefer working in pixels, then you can just write 3,600 pixels in here instead. We'll tap off the canvas to get out of the text mode and we can now exit out of the file into the gallery and give that file a name. Bilateral template. Whenever we want to use this template to make a linear pattern, what we'll actually do is duplicate it. We won't use this original one. We'll keep that for future projects and we'll just duplicate it each time we want to do a project. In the next lesson, we'll use this template to make a simple stripe. I'll see you there. 6. Simple Stripes: Okay, so we're ready to make a seamless stripe. A left swipe on the template we made in the last lesson and duplicate that. Then I'm going to rename that to something like simple stripe and go inside the file. We're just going to experiment with some basic stripes here. Now, in this orientation where the color block is at the side, it's set up for horizontal stripes. That's what we're going to start with. In the layers panel, we can now turn off the visibility of this color block and the text layer at the top, and we can tap in the draw here layer or artwork, whatever you've named it. I find it's quite helpful to have some sketch lines on a separate layer to guide where I'm going to put the stripes. Wireframe guides are like ready made sketch layers, and I provided a few in the resources, including a horizontal stripe. Now if you didn't yet send them over to the Procreate app, then you can insert them as images via the Actions menu, tap on the wrench icon, add, and then if they're in your photo library, you can choose Insert a photo. If they're somewhere else, for example, still in your Downloads folder, then you can choose Insert a File and navigate to that folder. However, what I prefer to do is send all my wireframe guides over to Procreate with the share option and keep them together in a stack. When you want to use one, go to that file. Here are my wireframe guides in this stack, and there's just one layer in that file. It's just a PNG and you can just copy that layer, go back to the file you're working on. And then we're going to create a new layer and use the three finger swipe to bring up the copy paste menu, and then we're just going to tap paste and that will come into the document. Now, before you commit that, you have the option to resize it. The IFrame guides I provided are 3,600 pixels, which is the same size as my Canvas here, so it fits on perfectly. If you have a smaller square canvas, it will scale down to fit. Otherwise, you may need to pull on the blue dots at these corners to resize it, and I recommend to have snapping on when you do that so that you are able to snap it to the corners. When the wireframe fills the canvas, you can commit that by tapping on the arrow icon here. And I can name that layer something like guide. Okay. Now, I like to have the wireframe on the top layer within the template group, that's going to be above my drawing layer. Then I'm going to use a blending mode to be able to see my drawing through that. I'll tap on the N and scroll up to multiply. And that will allow me to see my drawing through. Then also, I'll just bring that opacity down a bit, somewhere 25-30% is what I go for normally. That just means it's less distracting, but I can still see the guide and then tap on the M to just come out of those options. And then I'm going to tap in the draw here layer ready to begin the artwork. I'm going to choose a brush that's solid but with a textured edge. I'm going to go into the Procreate classic library and the organic organic brushes has this red brush in which has a nice textured edge. Let's select that I'm going to have it full size. Now, I like to start off the canvas and finish off the canvas. That just means I'm not going to get any funny. I'm going to actually choose I don't want to go that dark. Let's go for a navy blue. Start off Canvas and finish off Canvas, we don't get any funny edges. Now, did you see it snapped straight and that's because I'm holding my pencil down, it's making it a straight line. I'm not quite horizontal, I can also make it horizontal by touching my finger down on the screen, and that just snaps it into place. And if I keep my finger down and lift the stylus off, then that will commit that to a perfectly horizontal straight line. Now free hand lines are also nice. They add a little bit of extra liveliness and interest to the stripe and of course, hand drawn, things are all rage at the moment. So to do a free hand one, you just use the guide so you get it more or less in the right place, but don't hold down, so it's a little bit more of a relaxed look to the stripe. Let's do another one of those. Just using the wire frame as a guide to where I want to start and stop. Let's do another straight one, so I'll hold and just make sure that's perfectly horizontal, and let's do one more free hand one. Okay. Let's see about getting these stripes to repeat now. What I need to do is flip the edges of the canvas into the middle so I can work on them and make the transition of these stripe edges seamless. We'll use the bilateral template for this. First, make sure the whole group is selected. Go into the layers panel and tap on the group so it highlights in blue. Tap the selection button with the ribbon icon at the top. If you have any trouble getting the selection to work with the template group, then it's probably because you have automatic or color fill activated here. If that's the case for you, then tap on a regular layer and adjust your selection settings first before selecting the group. My settings are okay here. I'm on free hand selection and color fill is off. So once the selection options appear, choose Save and load with the heart. Now tap on selection one. Get the transform option up. With that transform activated, we can see that that left side of the canvas, that selection one is, in fact, selected. Then what we need to do is just tap flip horizontal to flip that over. Tap the ribbon icon again to deselect. Now we're going to repeat this for the other half of the Canvas. Selection button, save and load. Then now this time we're going to go for selection two to activate the right half of the Canvas and when we tap on transform, we'll see that half is selected exactly as we want, and then we can flip that one horizontal as well and then deselect. Now the edges are in the center of the canvas and we're able to do some work on them. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to zoom in and start working on these stripes. So what I'll probably do is just turn that wireframe off for a minute so it's not distracting me. This first stripe here, this was the one we did perfectly horizontal and it's actually quite hard to see where the join is. One thing we can do is momentarily turn on this color block, and we can see this is where the join is. That's actually pretty good actually. Sometimes the texture just causes some problems. There's a little bit there. What we can do is either add a little bit more, maybe a slightly smaller brush just to here, Procreate is telling me I have not selected which layer I want to work on. These are my options. I'm going to tap draw here. That's where my stripes are, and then I can just do a little bit of work on that adding. If I want to take away, then I can hold down on the eraser and that will become the same red brush as I was using. I'll get the same textured edge. We can just add and remove until we get the texture and the edge looking right and there's no strange lines in there. Okay. And then this one's going to need a bit more work. This was our free hand line. So again, just remove and re draw here as well. Just going to do these quite quickly. This isn't going to end up being a finish pattern. This is just really a demonstration, so just give you an idea of how to do it. And then, again, this one, this was a straight one, so we're going to need a bit of guidance where that is. Yeah. So this ones a little bit more where. You can see that's got quite a straight piece in there, which doesn't look right. It looks like a mistake, so we're just going to fill that in. Maybe take a little bit off. I'm not happy with how that looks. Okay, that's better. And then this one. Again, let's see where that is. But it's all the way over. I thought it was a bit more in the middle of that one. Here we go. Okay. So there we go. Okay, so that looks good now. There are a few techniques for simple seamless stripes in the next lesson, we'll be preparing for the main project by gathering inspiration. I'll see you there. 7. Project Inspiration: It's time for the project, and I've decided to make a lace like decorative stripe. These lacey samples are from my local fabric store. I'm feeling especially inspired by Broidery englaze which features open eyelets and cut work reinforced with embroidery on a lightweight cot and a linen base. As well as the Broiderglaze, they also had this sweet net lace and also some chunky bobbin lace trims as well. If you decide to make a lace like surface pattern design for your project, here are three options of styles you could try to recreate. Of course, we don't want to copy these actual lace designs because they are someone else's intellectual property, but we can be inspired by the type of openwk and stitches. I also took some quick snaps in clothes stores. Many examples are white or cream, but they also had some more colorful ones too. If you wanted, you could use color as a way to give a lace like design more of a modern twist. In the class resources, you'll find a design guide for lace stripes and borders. You can think of this a bit like a mood board, so it gives you some style direction, colour palettes ideas, motif suggestions, and even some layout suggestions too. For style direction, I'm suggesting delicate and refined with heirloom elegance and intricate feminine details. My own style is usually a bit less detailed and more chunky than this, it's okay to put your own spin on the direction or head off on a tangent if you want to. This guy just offers suggestions to help get your project started. There are four colour palettes here and they're all quite tonal, but you could mix them if you want to do a piece that's more colorful or develop your own palette. Most of these palettes are quite low contrast for soft look, but the midnight bloom one goes from light to dark if you want more contrast. You're also welcome to use my colour palettes Maker web tool to build a palette from one of your own photos where you love the color mood. The link for the palette Maker is in the class resources as well. So that's the colors. For motifs, I've listed organic and more structural types separately in the design guide. If you want to show where to start with a lace design, picking one organic motif from the list on the left and one structural motif from the right and combining them in one of these suggested layouts here should get you a good start. I've included a wireframe for this decorative stripe in the class resources. If you'd like to use one of the other three layouts here, you can get the extra wireframes in the bonus pack or just sketch an outline for yourself to follow if you prefer. For the border print, which runs along an edge, you design it exactly the same way as you would a decorative stripe using the bilateral template to get the edges of the band to repeat. Get ready for the project, you'll want to duplicate the bilateral template again. I'll call mine Lace stripe example and go into the file. Earlier, I was making horizontal stripes, but the decorative stripe I'm going to do runs vertically. I'm going to turn the canvas round by 90 degrees using two fingers to twist it, then the color block is along the bottom. At this point, we can turn off the color block and the text layer. So I've suggested the decorative stripe layout for the project. If you want to use it, then input the file or copy and paste the wireframe layer from the file you sent over to Procreate. I'm going to add a new layer above draw here and then go and get the one I've suggested for you is linear decorative stripe one, and I'm going to copy that and paste that in to that layer. It's the right size already, so I'll just commit that rename the layer. And make that multiply and a little bit less strong. Now, let's talk a bit about brushes. These are the lace inspired brushes I've provided in the resources for you. There is an inking brush, a lace like pattern brush, a simple edging brush, a more decorative edging brush, and to shape layout brushes. So I recommend to use the shape layout brushes to add to and augment the wireframe guide that you've already got. And you can use these brushes, first of all, like stamps. So if you wanted to add, for example, a flower shape here, you could tap once. I mean, that's not the perfect place for it, but this is just an example. You wanted it larger or smaller, then you can adjust that and there's a preset suggested size to start off with if you want to use a suggested size. You can tap those to make them stamps. Another way you can use these shape brushes is to draw a line of shapes. You could add to the wireframe, for example, by drawing a line of arches along here. And you could make that edge a bit more decorative. If you turn the canvas around so that you're drawing along the horizontal, and that's the best way to get a line of those shapes. Okay. Now, of course, the wireframe layouts shape brushes are totally optional. You can instead just sketch out motifs of your choice on a sketch layer, and the inking brush at a small size would be a good choice for that. You could even go a bit smaller. Fine lines for that. You probably have lots of ideas for different motifs you want to include, so definitely don't limit yourself to these two shapes if you have other ideas. Now for the actual pattern itself, you'll want to work on the drawing layer or multiple layers below the guide. I'm going to switch onto that one there. One thing you could do with these brushes, for example, you could use the buttonhole stitch to edge some shapes. This works well for lace, we could draw in an edge for our leaves. You could do that. Again, it's adjustable. It goes quite big and quite small. I've got these two sizes here and sometimes it's quite nice to have a wider edging and a narrower edging. There's two suggested sizes there for you, but play around and experiment, see what looks right for you. Now, the pattern brush is very useful for making a lace like background. I would put it on a separate layer though, so you can add a new layer here and you can have multiple layers in here as long as you keep them inside the template group. So with the pattern brush, the way I would use this, say, for example, I want to fill in the middle section here. I'll just do a part of it because it's just an example demo. Keep the brush the stylus on the screen on the canvas and continue sweeping it across until the area is filled. I'd say go over where you want to be rather than do too little because then it's quite easy. You can just take the inking brush out a bigger size and just remove any that you don't want. That's easier than trying to get it exactly in place I found. You can just tidy up those edges. Another thing you can do is carve out some eyelet holes. So this is a good way of getting that sort of eyelet look is to edge them with the buttonhole brush and then remove some of the background out of there. If you prefer, you can use a mask layer, but I'm probably just going to go ahead and erase and then the decorative edging brush, this is great for finishing off your edges of your lace or in between interfaces of sections of the lace. I like to start a little bit earlier with these brushes and give myself a runway because the first shape doesn't know which way to sit. If you start off quite slowly, it doesn't necessarily sit the right way. Just undo that. If you go a bit faster, it tends to sit the right way, but in case your first shape goes the wrong way like that, if you start earlier, you have the option to erase that first shape. I would suggest maybe just start a bit earlier and you can do straight lines and they're good for curves as well. They're quite a nice way to put edges on things that look a little bit prettier. So if you haven't done so already, go ahead and download these free brushes and experiment with them for yourself. The free set is supplied with a commercial license so you can use them for work as well as personal projects. So make your preparations for the project and then meet me in the next lesson. 8. Decorative Stripe Design: M. For my project, I'm making a delicate stripe in white and soft pastels that would be suited to wallpaper and home decor. I'm going to be using the techniques we already covered. So at this point, I'm not going to describe every technical step in detail. Now, I'll focus on creative decisions and developing the design. So let's just start by duplicating this template again. And I'm going to call that lace stripe. H. Now remember we're making stripes that run vertically now, so I'm going to turn that canvas around and turn these two layers off and add another layer for a guide. Now, I am going to be making or using this linear decorative stripe two, which is a different guide to the one in your resources pack. Now this is on purpose so that you can practice the techniques while still making your own creative choices, which is what the projects all about. Let's get that copied. And also, if you want to commercialize the pattern that you create in this class, for example, you might want to sell it through POD sites like Spoonflower or license it to clients, then it's important that the design is your own. Okay. Let's get that layer set up. So for brushes, I'm going to use some slightly different ones to you as well. And I'm going to get this eight petaled flower instead of the 61 from the full brush set. I'm going to add some details on to my guide layer. So I want to put a flower in the middle of each of these circles. They're going to be my main design elements, the flowers. So I'm going to use it as a stamp and just tap in the center here. I don't want them to touch, though that's about the right size, actually. That's good. So we'll keep that. I want them to be close, but not quite touching. Now, these ones obviously going over the edge. If I use the stamp, they're not going to repeat, but it's only my guide layer, so it's not my actual artwork layer. So I'm just going to pop them in roughly where they should be. For now, I'm not going to worry about it. Okay, so I think I also want to add some geometric shapes, and let's see about maybe a diamond would fit in here and between the flowers. Let's see about the size of that. Just quite a small one. So I'm just going to put those in there. As well, and we'll want some on the ends. So I think that's enough details on the guide layer added to it just to make it my own. Now, in terms of colors, I'm a little bit torn between the light blue and the pink palettes here, but I think I'm going to go for the blue one. So let me pick the pastel blue there. I'm going to start off by putting some shapes down, the main shapes of the lace areas. So I'm going to go in the drawer here part, and I might rename that actually because I'm going to have multiple layers in here. I'm going to just call this main shapes. And I want to use my inking brush. This is the same one that you've got. And I think I'm just going to go through and free hand these shapes. I want to have a hand drawn look to it, so I don't want things to be perfect arcs and things like that. I'm going to choose not to use symmetry. Obviously, this these shapes are in symmetry, so I could use a symmetry tool, but I feel like the hand drawn look is what I want to go for. Symmetry might just spoil it a little bit. I'm going to go and follow him a guide, but I'm going to have free hand look to that. And of course, I will have to do some work on the ends later. But let's just get something down for now. Okay. I can go ahead and color drop that in there. I'll also have some shapes at the sides and I can fill those with solid color, but I have to remember that I can't put any details on the side edges. Again, I'm just free handing in, not using symmetry to do both sides at once, to give it a hand drawn look and we'll come back and make these ends repeat a bit later on as long as we get close for now. Okay. So that is the shape area. And I know I'm going to have the embroidery parts in white. I want that look. So that means I'm going to need a darker background. So I'm going to choose this slightly darker blue to go on the base layer. So on the base layer, I'm going to fill that layer. And then I'm going to make a new layer for my embroidery. It's important to have a new layer for each color so we can recolor easily and pick the white from that palette. It's a slightly off white. And then I'm going to use buttonhole stitch one. So you've got buttonhole stitch two. I'm going to use buttonhole stitch one. And I think we're going to go in and see how the flowers look in that. Let's do a flower first. So I think this circle is a little bit too small from my guide, so I'm going to go bigger than that. I need to be on the brush. And that is very small. So this brush goes quite big and I've got two presets there, and I think the bigger ones probably what I want for this. So it keeps going back on the so I'm going to go overlap those ends. I've overlapped the ends and I've held it down, so the shape snaps. I'm not doing a perfect circle. That would be a perfect circle with a finger on the canvas. I'm going to do a slightly off sender circle. But the stitches are looking good. I'm happy with that, so I'm going to let that go. It actually might be a little bit on the big side. I'm going to go a little bit smaller than that. So let's do that again, circle with a bit of an overlap and just let it snap in to place. Yeah, I'm happy with that one now. So now I want to do the petals, and I'm going to have a little bit smaller lines to do the petals with still the same brush, and I'm going to free hand it because I want to have that handmade look, which traditional lace would be. So I've got that in, and then I'm going to go back to the larger size and put some more petal shapes inside here. Might actually go more like to a point there, like that. That's better. I like that more. To a point. Like a teardrop shape. That's kind of cool. Okay. Now, it's a good idea to just keep looking at it without the guide sometimes. And I think I need something inside that circle. I'm going to use a pattern brush, and I'm going to do that on a new layer so I can lay down my pattern and then erase it without taking my embroidery away. So let's rename that to pattern, lace. And let's see. I'm gonna go for the mesh. You've got the net. I'm gonna go for the mesh. And how bigs that? Size, put it down in the middle layer on a new layer. Right. Now I want to carve out some holes because Bodrnglaze has the eyelets in. I I carve holes out of this light blue layer, the dark blue layer will show through, and that will give me the look I'm after, I think. Going to go on the main shapes layer. As I said before, you could use a mask to do this if you want to be nondestructive, but I'm going to just go for it and erase these Holes where I want them in the shape of the eyelets. And yet, they're different sizes, but I like that handmade look. That's what we're going for here. That's what I'm going for. A bit bigger. Take that out. And I think that is the flower that I want, the style of flower that I want. I'm going to I'm going to do more of that with the rest of the flowers. Now, I could copy and paste the flower another seven times, but I'm not going to do that. I'm going to draw each one individually. So I'm just going to make sure I'm back on that embroidery layer before I start drawing again with my buttonhole stitch. So I'm going to go round and do all of the flower shapes, and I'll speed it up. So, yeah, I'm going to draw them all individually because I do want that natural variation. I mean, the human brain and eyes do pick up these small differences, and having things not be all the same definitely gives patterns more of a kind of hand drawn charm with that bit of variety. So I want to have eight different flowers on here. That's what I'm going for. Okay. So that's the seven flowers done. I'm not going to do these end ones yet. I'm gonna do those afterwards. So I also want some holes here as well. And then I will on the embroidery layer. I've got a lot of these to do in this design because I know I want them around the edge as well. So what I've actually done is I've created myself some stamp brushes just to do circles because I do suffer from carpal tunnel issues. So I try to help save my hands a little bit and speed up pattern making. So for the holes, instead of doing them like this by hand, I am going to stamp them out with my circle outlets like this. So let's see they're about the right size. I think maybe a bit bigger, actually, just go a little bit bigger on the preset. And I think maybe I want them a bit closer together. I'm going to just keep them inside that diamond like that. Okay, so I'll just go round and do those. I'll probably go over these ones, make them the same size. And I'll do that one afterwards. Okay. And then we'll go on embroidery layer. I'm just going to take that one away. That not copy. Sorry. I don't want to copy that. I wanted to. Cut that off. And then let's make sure we're on the right layer. And I'm going to use a stamp for this, as well. Just to speed things up for myself, save my wrists. I was watching a lady on YouTube make eyelets holes for real in actual fabric. And I was surprised that for the small holes like the ones I'm designing here, she did not cut the fabric. She stitch first round quickly to stabilize the area just with a running stitch. And then she used a tool called a stiletto, which is like a point and then it gets wider. And she put it between the warp and weft of the fabric and then slowly made the whole bigger and then stitched around up and over like this buttonholing effect once she'd made the gap there. So that's how they're made in real life. So I'm going to have lots of these eyelets along the scalloped edge, too. So let's go in and do this scalloped edge now around here. I'm going to use the same brush because I've got a lot of them to do. I could stamp in like I've been doing here, but I can also use this brush. Let's make sure I'm on the right layer. No, I'm not want to be on the main shapes layer. And you can do an arc of them like this with the brush, which is quite handy. So I think I'm going to do some peacot edging as well around. I'm going to turn that wireframe off so I can see my actual edges. I'm going to go around these edges as well. So let's go and find a peacock brush. I'm going to go for Peacot edging one here, like a decorative brush. I think I'm going to do this on a new layer because I'm very close to this other embroidery. I want to be able to tidy up the corners. These brushes are really super on curves and straight lines, but corners, well, any brush that is made up of shapes that are directional will be a bit odd on corners. There'll be a deny wee bit tidying up to do there. This one I could do with making a few changes here, so I'm just going to take out probably these ones here. I'll redo those. A Okay, so I think I'm going to do something on these sides now, and I think we'll do like two rows of I mean, I could use the buttonhole stitch. The double coordinat is just a double version of the buttonhole stitch, so you could just draw it twice. But I'm going to do this on the embroidery layer. Of course, I am going to have quite a bit of work to do on the ends there. I get it close to at least being the right sort of angle. There we are. It's a bit better. Okay, now, what I'm going to do is I am going to put some of that mesh pattern in between here. I'm probably making life harder for myself than needed because it's going to be quite hard to get that lace to repeat at the end at the ends here. But one trick or tip I can give you is to get your canvas lined up straight, not have it at an angle like this, but have it straight as straight as you can get it because the pattern itself is going to lay down depending on the orientation of the canvas. So put plenty of pattern down and go to the edge, but there will be a little bit of work to do later. I'm going to show you how to do that, but do more than you need so that you have you actually go to the line and a little bit over and then we'll just tidy that up. You may not want to do this type of thing on your pattern anyway, but this is what I'm doing on mine. I think it's nice to have elements that appear in different parts of the pattern. So if I've used this mesh in the middles here, it's nice to also have it somewhere else in the pattern, I think. So that's laid the pattern down hopefully in quite a straight way. And I'm just going to go in and tidy these edges up now, and I'll just speed this part up. So in the next lesson, we'll be using the bilateral template to put this design into a repeat pattern. I'll see you there. 9. Seamless Repeat Pattern: Okay, so I think we're ready to flip it over and work on the seams now. This is where our bilateral template comes into play. We need to be on the template group and tap select my settings are good here. I've got free hand and color fillers not on. Remember that can sometimes stop this from popping up. This has popped up, so that's good. I can do Save and Load Selection one, transform. This time we want to flip vertical because we are making a vertical pattern or a vertical stripe and then tap off that to deselect, repeat for the bottom half And then we are going to flip that one vertical as well. And now we have got the edges in the middle and we can work on these seams. Okay, so at this point, I'm going to want to have my guide back on. And I'm going to be drawing in my new flower, so I want to be on the embroidery layer. Now my flower on the template on the guide layer isn't in perfect repeat, and I don't mind that I can still work with that. But if you did want your wireframe and your guide or your sketch layer to be in perfect repeat, if that was something you needed for the particular design you were doing, then you could do the flipping at the sketch stage as well. There's no limit to the number of times you can flip the canvas over. So if you wanted to do that at the sketch stage and get that in perfect repeat, you could. Haven't don't need to. I'm going to go ahead and draw this flower in now with the buttonhole stitch. This is where these preset brush size is useful because you can get back to the same size as you had before. You can take my sizes out if you want to. Just use this minus icon up here. If you on a size where you want to save it, you can tap on the plus. Then let's do these blue parts here. So I'm going to go back and get some blue kinking. Let's make this a bit of a nicer shape. About there and do this one as well. The other side. One's not bad. That's a good thing about having the wireframe guide. You can get quite close to it being right. All right. Now, these are a bit funny in here. I think I'm going to fill these back in and try again with those ones. I'm not keen on them. And I'm just going to take these off. Cut those out. Let's have another go with those. Better. And I'm on the embroidery layer. That's better, isn't it, right? Let's do the peacot edges. Peacot edges. I think I will just take that one off. Pops using the wrong eraser. Take that one off. Probably that one as well. It's all bit awkward that one. Right, let's try and get some peacot edges in here. Let's see how we go. That's not bad. We'll go with that. And then this side. I think we'll take this one off. And good. Just have a few goes at it till it looks right. I think we are quite satisfied with that one. All right, so that's those parts. We just need these bits in now and the pattern area that I'm probably going to regret doing. But anyway, yes, I've got quite far off on that side. They're a little bit far off. Anyway, let's have a go. So this one, the embroidery, I'm going to do first. So we're going to have to make these inside lines join. So I think I will go to erase the parts a little bit. I get close to that. And this one I'll just take part of it off and then just meet them up again with the cordont brush. I actually think I'm probably going to use a regular buttonhole one just to join them up because I just need to get the size a bit right. Just a little bit bigger in between those two, I think. It's still not quite right. Let's just go a bit smaller and do it on twice. And just brush over that again. And just to raise that perhaps also with the buttonhole brush just to get that textured edge. So we've done it a bit there. Okay. Okay. So that's those. And then the mesh, the pattern, lace. This could be a bit tricky. So it's actually not bad on the join. We just have a bit extra, and I'm just literally going to draw that in, or you can copy and paste a little bit of the lace into place if you've got a bit missing. So let's just take off the bit we don't want down here. And I'm just going to make this brush really tiny just so I can get in and just suck those funny little pieces out there. And then I'm going to use this buttonhole brush quite small. And I'm just literally gonna draw it in. I think you could copy and paste a bit of bit across, but I think I'm just going to draw it in. It's quite an easy one to draw. It's just lines. And because I drew it with my canvas straight on, it's actually lining up quite well. So that's that definitely helped, I think. Okay, so I think that looks pretty cool. It's nice and lacey. And so I think that's where I'm going to leave it for this lesson. In the next one, we'll test and preview this pattern. So I'll see there. 10. Testing the Pattern: I'm quite confident that this tile is going to repeat seamlessly. But let's just check that. Swipe down with three fingers to bring up the copy paste menu and choose copy all. This grabs a single image of everything visible on the canvas. I'll tap the layer right at the top and paste it in above that layer. I'm going to get four more copies of that by duplicating. I'm going to shrink these down into each corner of the canvas. With the top layer selected, check the transform tool. Just make that a bit smaller so you can see what's going on. Then tap the blue circle in one of the corners and check that the dimensions lock is on so that this little lock icon is blue, and then type 1,800 pixels because that's half of my 3,600 pixels canvas. The contents of the layer will shrink down into that corner that I tapped on. Tap the transform icon again to deselect. Now go to the next layer down and we're going to choose a different corner to transform from. We'll go for this one. Again, half of the Canvas dimensions, and it will shrink down and I tap twice on that to deselect it actually. The next layer down, we'll do another corner and shrink that one down. And then the final layer to do this one up here, and we will shrink that down, and then I can't see that to, so I will just tap somewhere else. Now we can zoom in to the seams down the middle and check that everything is seamless. I am expecting this one down the middle definitely to be seamless because there were no details on here. I was just solid color because we were doing a stripe. And for the middle, you might find it difficult to actually see where the seam is because it is seamless. So what you may want to do is just momentarily turn that off just to see where you should be looking, and then you can go across and make sure nothing has moved out of place and there's no funny areas. And then this other side is just the same thing, but just go across the whole of the middle and have a look at the seams. So I'm happy with that. That is seamless. So yes, this repeats, but I feel like I want to see it a little bit more zoomed out than this. It really helps to see the spacing and the flow and make sure it's going to look good from a distance, for example, on wallpaper, if you can see a little bit more of a zoomed out view. For that, I like to use pattern previewer. Pattern previewer is a free tool on my website. And that's at rocket and indigo.com, forwardslash Patent hyphen previewer. This works right in your own browser, on your own device. You pattern tile isn't going to be sent anywhere at all. It's just going to be on your device. What you can do is you can tap here and find an image that you've saved in your photo library or you can choose a file from somewhere else in your file system. But you can also drag a whole Procreate layer straight in and that can be really handy if you're working in Procreate. Let's have a look how to do that. Bring your layers panel up and we don't want to use these shrunk down ones. We want to use the whole tail, which is this bottom layer that we did not transform. You're just going to literally take it, hold it, and drag it in here. And I'm just going to make this whole thing bigger now so we can see what we're doing. So when you've pulled it in, if you've worked at a size 3,600 pixels, then the pattern might look really big in the browser at first. So what you want to do is use this slider here to make it smaller and it goes all the way down. So as I said, you can really get a view, a really zoomed out view. Of how the pattern works at a distance and how the spacing and the flowers for the pattern. And that obviously is very small, so you might want to have something a bit more like this and just make sure you're happy with all of your spacing. So the pattern previewer has some advanced options as well, so it can also be used with half drop, brick, and mirror repeats, but today we just have a basic repeat pattern. It's also possible to load in a PNG file without any background with transparency, and then you can try out different background colors up here directly. You can choose those and see how it's going to look in the previewer if you want to do that. Okay. I'm happy with the balance of this pattern. I think it all flows nicely. But if I notice that there was something I wasn't happy with, there was a motif a bit out of position, perhaps, I could go back and change that and Procreate. You could even use this tool at earlier stages of your pattern design process if you want to. For example, you could drop a sketch in here to see if you're happy with the spacing and flow before actually moving forward with the design. That's another way to use this. There's also an export option where you can download your preview. And you can do that at any scale you like, and you can download multiple previews at different scales as well. And we'll do that so that we can share an image of the pattern we made in the class gallery when posting our projects. So if you download that, you can just tap on Save Image, and that will be saved now to my photos library, so I can add it to my project. In the next lesson, we'll look at a couple of optional extra steps after your pattern is finished, which is making additional color versions and adding texture. I'll see you there. 11. Recolouring & Texture: Now that I'm happy with my pattern, I want to create some versions with different colours. This is optional, but I think it's good to offer a choice of colorways. First, I'm going to go out into the gallery and I'm going to duplicate this pattern, I'm going to put some color information on the end and I'm going to make this one a pink one. Let's go inside that file. We can delete these testing layers, first of all, we don't need those anymore and I'm going to start by recoloring the base. Now, if we have created all of our different colors on different layers, then the process of recoloring is going to be easy. So for my base, I'm going to select the darkest pink in the pink palette. And since this layer is completely filled with color, I don't need to do anything other than just fill a layer with the new color. Then for the main shapes, I'm going to choose the lighter pastel pink. Now, this time, I can't just fill the layer because not all of it has the color in. There are areas that are cut out. I'm going to need to turn on alpha lock before I'm able to fill it. You may just be able to see there's a very slight dark grid pattern in the background which indicates that that alpha lock is on. With Alpha lock on, I'm able to now fill the layer and it only fills the parts of the layer where there are pixels, not any transparent areas. So we're going to now do the lighter layers, and that's going to be with this white. Again, I've got three layers here to do and they're all white, and I need to alpha lock them. Now a quicker way to do that is to nudge right with two fingers on the layer and I'm going to alpha lock all three of these layers. Can you see that checkerboard now, it's probably easier to see on these layers. Once they're alpha locked and I've got my white selected, I can literally just go and fill the layer and it'll just make it that slightly lighter white color, which goes better with that pastel pink. That's it. We have a second color way. I might just do the other two palettes with the warm yellow and with the indigo as well, but I will speed that up. So once I've got all my colorways, I like to export a PNG file of each to use, for example, to upload to spoonflower. If you just have a single file, you can swipe left and then choose Share and then choose the format that you want, so I'd probably choose PNG. If you've got multiple colorways, though, you can do that in one go by tapping select and then choosing all of the colorways. Can you see they've got these little ticks in the top, and then tap Share and then tap PNG. At this point, you can choose to save those images to the photo library. You can save them to files, a folder. But what I'll probably do is send it to my MacBook since that is usually where I do my uploading from. So once that's done, we can close that window and uncheck to exit the select options. Now, sometimes I also create a version of the pattern that has texture added on top. For my Broider anglaise lace look, I would like to have a subtle cotton or linen texture, I think. If you'd like a fabric texture on your lace design as well, then you can get the Procreate fabric canvas in the bonus resources pack. I'm going to make a duplicate of that. I think I'm just going to drag it up here so it's with all of the other patterns that we've been making. I'm going to rename this to lace, stripe. Fabric texture. I'm going to go in and get my pattern tile. I'm just going to copy that tile that we have there. You could also swipe down and copy all if you had the other layers. Then I need to be on the artwork here layer, and then I'm going to paste that in. Okay, and that's where it's gone, so that's good. And it should be exactly the right size. So if I zoom in, you should be able to see the texture. It is quite subtle. Now, the strength of the texture really depends a little bit on the colors and the tones you've got in your design. If you want more texture, then you can check this and it will basically double up that fabric layer. If that's too much, then you can reduce that down a little bit. You've got the choice to have a bit more texture. Now, the extra texture will darken the colors a little bit. If you were to turn this off, you'll see it is quite a bit darker and a little bit more saturated as well. So what I've done here is I've got some adjustment layers. So if you want to reduce the brightness a bit, you can turn that on and you've got the option to move these slides up and down until you find a place that you're happy with the saturation as well if it's just given you a little bit too much saturation. You don't need much of this. You don't want to take it all the way up here. It's just going to go gray. So just keep it down low. Until you find something where when you turn off the fabric texture, it's quite similar to what your original colors were like, I think I'll just go brighter, but I won't do any desaturating. So that's about where I want to be with that fabric texture. Okay, so this should all repeat seamlessly, but just in case anything got nudged out of place, you could use the testing method I showed in the last lesson just as a final check to make sure it's all good to go. So that's my ace strap project finished, and I'm ready to share it in the project gallery. When your own project is complete, add it to the gallery too, and then join me again for a bonus lesson about diagonal stripes. I'll see you there. 12. BONUS: General Template: Welcome back. For making patterns where the design crosses on all four sides, such as diagonal stripes, we need a different template with quadrants. I'm going to be making my template 12 " by 12 " again. But you can choose any dimension that you prefer. I've created a new file. The important thing for this particular template is that we actually want to create the file half the width and half the height of our template in the end. That means I'm going to make it 6 " by 6 " this time. That's at 300 DPI, that will be 1,800 pixels square. Once the file is created, I'm going to add a color fill just like we did before. I'm going to go in and select something there and just go ahead and fill a layer. Now it's time to double the width and also the height of the canvas. I'm going to go into the wrench icon in the Canvas menu, crop and resize and get the settings up. Now we're going to change this to 12 by 12 ", 300 DPI, and we're going to have resample canvas and snapping off. Then we're going to tap that to commit the change. Now we have a square in one corner of the canvas and that is one quadrant. And we'll use this quadrant of filled colour to create the template. Now, remember, we need to have another layer below the color block layer as our base, and we're going to fill that with a light color. So I'm going to add a second layer, hold and drag it below, and then I'm going to take a lighter color and fill that layer. And now we can turn off the visibility of Procreate's own background color. So the next step of creating our template is to group these layers together. This one's already selected, so we're just going to nudge to select both layers there, and then we're going to go ahead and group those layers, and now we've got a new group. Now we want to create the selections that allow us to use this as a template for repeat patterns. I need to tap on the color block layer and tap again to bring up the menu and choose Select. With that selected, we can tap Save and load, and we're going to choose plus to turn that bottom right quadrant into selection one, and then we can deselect. Now we need to flip this quadrant into a different corner of the canvas. Remember to do that, you have to have the whole group selected with the group selected, we can transform that and I'm going to go for bottom left this time, bottom left. I'm going to flip horizontal. That's in the other bottom corner and deselect. Then go back to the color block. Select, and we're going to save that as selection two and deselect. Now we need to flip upwards. Let's highlight that group. The whole group needs to be selected to transform the sections, and this time we need to go vertical so it goes up to the top and then we're going to go back into our color block layer. Remember you can hold with two fingers if you want to do quickselect, save and load and save selection three. Turn that off and then we need to do our last flip over to the top right corner. Make sure your group is selected before you transform, and then we're going to go horizontal again to bring it over there. Finally, we can select this quadrant and save that quadrant as selection four. Okay, so I'm just going to go ahead and tidy up this template now. So remember, we're going to want a layer for our artwork, so I'm just going to add that layer and rename it. So let's get my keyboard up, and I'm going to go for draw here that layer. And let me just rename all of these other ones. Template group, and color block. And getting too quick, and this is our base. I'm going to put in that additional layer on top with the text. I'm going to add a text layer. I'll make that dark colour, I'll make this box bigger. This one is a quadrant template. This is for making general patterns. Yeah, it's good for diagonal stripes, but you can also use this for lots of other things, scatter patterns, all kinds of patterns with this one. It's quite versatile this one. Okay, so I just tap off the cavas to come out there and come out the file, and I'm just going to name that quadrant template. In the next lesson, we'll use this template to make a diagonal stripes pattern. I'll see you there. 13. BONUS: Diagonal Stripes: Now we're going to use the quadrant template to make a diagonal stripe with the design crosses all four sides. Start by duplicating the template, and I'm going to call that diagonal stripe. I've chosen the diagonal wave wireframe, which is in your class resources to help me get the positioning right. I'm just going to copy that and go back and set this file up so I can turn off the text layer and the color block, and I'm going to add another layer in here above the drawing layer and call that guide. And add in the wireframe. That's the correct size, and then I'm going to set it on to multiply, and I'll turn that down a bit, not too much because I want you to be able to see it. And then I'm ready to go on to the draw here layer. I'm just going to choose a simple brush for this demonstration. I'll choose the inking brush. We've all got that. I'm going to go for that navy blue again. I quite like that when we did the horizontal stripes at the start of the class. And now I'm right handed and I like to draw continuous lines slightly up and across from left to right. I'm going to turn my cams around just so it's easier for me to draw these continuous lines. But you do whatever works for you. So I'm just going to turn that brush right up because it's not that big. Anyway, I'm going to follow these guidelines, trying to get the angles roughly right, so I've got a little bit less work to do later on putting the edges into repeat. I'm just going to fill that in. And then go to the long one. This one's a bit hard. I might have to have a few tries to get this looking right. We'll just go for it. Yeah, you see that end is quite off. I'm going to have another go at that. Don't be afraid to have a few tries at it to get the lines the way you want them. But we can always do more work on them later, so don't worry too much. And then the short one I could add more things in here, of course. I could put things in between the stripes, flowers, dots, whatever you want to do. But this is just a demonstration. I'm just going to keep it simple with the lines for now. We're now going to put the edges or the corners particularly into the middle, and then we can work on them and get these edges to repeat. So using this template is very similar to using the linear template, except that the quadrants can be flipped both vertically and horizontally or just in one direction depending on which part of the tile you want to move into the center to work on. But either way, we need to consistently flip all four quadrants the same way. So to begin, make sure the whole template group is selected. So tap on that so it highlights in blue, and then go to the selection button with the ribbon, go to save and load and choose selection one, and then we can go to transform and flip horizontal and vertical, and then deselect. Okay. So same again for selection two. Transform horizontal and vertical, deselect. Now we're on selection three, Transform horizontal and vertical, deselect, and then selection four in save and load, and again, horizontal and vertical. We've done all of them the same way. Now we've got those corners into the middle. We're going to work on this middle section, so it's incomplete at the moment. We need to complete this motif, and we should be working on the drawer heals so we need to select that and just begin filling in that missing part. I'm going to make this brush a little bit smaller for this, so I got a bit more control over it. Okay, so just fill those missing parts in. I'm not quite happy with that shape though. I want a bit more of a smoother there. So you can just finnes it as much as you want to. Okay. Now I can see these parts at the edges here need work. But the danger of going in and working here is that if you do want to go right to the edges, it's going to cause you problems later. It's going to take anything that is in repeat out of repeat. So what you want to do is instead of working on these parts at the edges, you want to get them into the center to work on them. Now the issue with having things in the middle of the sides halfway down the side is that if you flip it horizontal and vertical, it's going to end up on another edge. So we need to do something different with this round of flipping. We need to flip it one way. So for example, if we flip horizontal, these edges will come into the middle. And then later on, we'll come back to these edges because once we flip it horizontal, they'll be in the corners, and then we can do the same as before to get them back into the middle. So you can choose how you flip the canvas each time depending on what you're trying to achieve. And if I want to get these sides into the middle, I just need to flip it one way, which is horizontal. So we're going to do that now and remember that you need to have the template group selected to do this step. Then with that selected, we're going to go in and do our four saving loads. And when we transform it, we're going to transform every time horizontal only for this round and saving load horizontal. Saving load three, horizontal, and then the last one, saving load four, horizontal. So all four selections transform the same way. So now those edges are in the middle and we can just do what we did before and go ahead and fill in the missing parts. And Procreate has reminded me that I need to choose a layer to work on. So I'm going to choose draw here. Thank you for that reminder, Procreate. And Let's fill that in. I'm just seeing the wireframe guide there. I'm going to turn that off because it's just giving me a funny impression of my lines, seeing that underneath. I actually think I might need to take a bit out here. I'm gonna make that brush, the same type of brush. That arrays are the same as the brush by holding down and just carve a little bit out of that bend there looking a bit too chunky. Right. Okay, so that's those edges that we had there before. Now, these tiny little bits in the corner we need to get those into the middle now and work on those because everything else is looking good. But these corners there might be a problem. This time we're going to go back to going both horizontally and vertically because that will give us the transformation that we want. Go in and make sure the template group selected, same procedure as before. We just go through one, two, three, four, and make sure we do the transformations in the same each time we do it. Three, horizontal and vertically, and finally, selection four, horizontally and vertically. Okay, so deselect. Now those corners are in the middle and yes, we do have a little bit more work to do. So let's go for that. We need to be on the draw here layer. Okay. That curves about where I want it to be. Okay, this should now be in repeat because we've tackled all of the parts that were at the edges earlier on. So let's test it now, and we're going to want to put our test layers right at the top, so I'm going to select the very top layer, and then I'm going to copy all and paste that in on top there. Then duplicate it I want to have my original one and then four duplicates. Then we're going to shrink each one of these down into the corner, we will transform each one, and I'm going to take this one up to this corner. Half of 3,600 is 1,800. Let that shrink down. Choose the next layer. I'll go down to this corner this time and shrink it down. Next layer, I'll go to the top, shrink that one down. Okay, and the final layers just undo that. I need to deselect. Then I can move the cameras up so I can see that corner to transform. Now I can get to the bottom left hand corner to shrink the layer down. I deselect those. I'm going to go in and check that this repeats now. I'll go across the middle first, so I'm going to turn off a layer to see where the seam is, then go across and make sure it looks good at the seams. I'll do the vertical seam as well. Okay, I'm happy with that. That's how to use the quadrant template for making repeat patterns where all four sides have elements crossing over them. Before you go, please join me in one more short lesson where we'll wrap things up. 14. Thank you: Thank you very much for joining me in this class. I hope you've learned lots of techniques that you'll use for designing many more patterns in the future. If you ever have any questions, you can post in the discussion area or reach out to me by email at hello at rocket and indigo.com. If you haven't done so already, I encourage you to also join the email newsletter with monthly design resources delivered to your inbox. Also, be sure to follow me here on Skillshare to be the first to hear when a new class launches. And if you've enjoyed this class, please consider leaving a review, which may help others find a class that they like, too. That's all for now. Happy designing, and I'll see you next time.