Lightroom Mobile Editing Made Easy {2022} | Edit Like a Pro With Your Smartphone!

1. Discover How To Edit Your Photos, Like a pro, with Lightroom Mobile: If you want to learn how to edit your photos on the go with your smartphone. And the Lightroom mobile app is all you need to create amazing images like a pro. And this is the perfect class to learn everything you need to transform your images from ordinary to extraordinary. Hello, my name is Chris Barker and I've been using and teaching Lightroom for the last 14 years. And I can't wait to share with you everything I know about editing in layer and for your smartphone. The best way to learn how to edit with the Lightroom app is with real-world projects. You're going to learn how to edit ten different images with unique editing challenges. And the photos are included so you can practice what you've learned. Some of the editing challenges you will work through include how to fix over and underexposed images. How to fix images with a lack of contrast. How to make your images pop with a boost of color. How to target your subject, your sky with Lightroom's built-in artificial intelligence for masking and much more. Plus, you'll learn how to import and organize your images and you'll get in-depth tutorials on every editing tool. This way you know what each tool does, how to apply it for best results. So you can create amazing images. Once you complete this class, you'll be able to apply your new knowledge to edit your own images. And I've also included two bonuses. The first as a four-step process for creating your own editing style. And this will help you avoid being stuck and wondering what to do next. The second bonus includes 50 of my premium Lightroom presets that I use for my own images. And you'll learn how to install, use, and create your own presets. If you have any questions along the way, I'm here to answer them and to critique your photo editing project. If you are ready to get started with editing your images with the Lightroom mobile app blends to do it. 2. What's coming up next?: So in the next five tutorials, you're gonna get an overview of the Lightroom mobile app. So this is going to include a quick overview of the app in the next tutorial. And then you're gonna learn about the free versus the premium version of the Lightroom app. And then you're gonna learn about importing your photos and how to get them organized. And then we're gonna do a quick overview of all the editing tools in the Lightroom mobile app. So if you're ready, let's do it. 3. Lightroom Mobil App Overview: All right, we're now going to jump into the Lightroom app and I'm gonna give you a quick overview of the lightroom interface so you know where everything is located. Alright, so once you open Lightroom for the first time, you'll be in the library section where all your images can be accessed. Plus at the top and bottom are some additional resources to help you manage your files and to get the most out of Lightroom. So at the top, you have the option to search your files based on the metadata within your files, like the location, camera or lens used, keywords and other metadata. So if I do a search for Nikon, I have several options that pop up. And then if I choose the 50 millimeter lens, Lightroom nails down the search to show 288 photos used with that lens. When I did my search, it opened up the folder of images and now at the top, it lists a new tool to help you find images and it's known as the filter. With the filter, you have some additional ways to search for images. One of which is defined all images that you've rated with four or five stars, your rejected images and more. Then if I wanted to do a keyword search, it will list the keywords available. And then if I want to find all the photos of echo, I'll select that. And boom, Lightroom has narrowed down all the photos to those of only echo. All right, another cool option is the last one which will list all your edited images and those that have yet to be edited, which is pretty cool if you stop editing and let's say you come back a day or two later and maybe you can't remember where you stopped. Well, come into here and then Lightroom will find all the files that still needs to be edited. Alright, next you have your notifications you've set up and then information about whether or not your images are thinking to the Cloud. All right, Next we have Settings and you have a lot of different ways to set up Lightroom and get additional information about your Cloud storage, local storage, and more. So when you have time, go ahead and go through all these different options to see if there's anything you need to set up for yourself and to find any other information that you may need to know about your Lightroom app. At the bottom, you'll find all the images you've shared with the Lightroom app. And you can discover images and edits from other photographers for inspiration. Alright, you may have noticed this big blue button down here in the bottom right. And we're gonna cover a few different ways to get your images into Lightroom in the next tutorial. And in case you're wondering, we will do an overview of all the editing tools in an upcoming lesson in this section as well. Until then, let's get some images into Lightroom. 4. Free vs Premium Version: All right, So when it comes to using Lightroom, whether it's on your iPhone or an Android, you don't need a subscription, it's 100% free. However, there is a premium version that includes more features and tools to help you achieve your creative vision. In this tutorial, I'd like to share with those premium options are and then you can decide if it's worth upgrading or not. Now installing the Lightroom on your smartphone, is it as easy as going to your app store and installing it from there? Now this is going to include the free version automatically. In order to get the premium subscription, you can sign up for it directly within the Lightroom app to upgrade, locate one of the tools with the blue circle and white star inside and click on that tool. That's going to bring up the landing page with information about the premium features and a subscribe button. But the question is, why would you want to pay for something that you can get for free? Well, here's a list of the premium features you may want to consider for creating amazing images. And there's two main features that I think are worth upgrading all by themselves. And that is the Healing Brush and the ability to edit Raphael's. If you shoot it images with a DSLR camera and shoot in the raw format, then you will need to upgrade in order to edit those files in Lightroom. Now if you're not sure what the raw file format is, don't worry because we will go over that later in the course and you'll see the benefits of shooting in that file format vs JPEG. Now, that being said, if you're shooting strictly with your smartphone, then chances are your phone doesn't have the ability to shoot in RAW unless you have an app installed that allows you to do this, or it's already built into your smartphone. Either way, you'll discover why I recommend shooting in RAW later on. Now if shooting in RAW isn't something that you're interested in, you may be interested in the Healing Brush. The Healing Brush is an artificial intelligence tool that allows you to quickly and easily retouch your images. With the healing brush, you can remove blemishes from skin, remove small objects and more. And I'm gonna provide pro tips for retouching your images later in this course. Now some of the other premium tools that are included are the masking tools, premium presets and more. We're gonna go over all of these premium features in the next section. So you can decide if these are actually tools that you can use for your own images. Until then, feel free to use the free version. And if he decided not to upgrade, that's okay as well because you can skip any lectures that include the premium features and you'll know which is a premium feature tutorial. Since I'll include this banner or right here, to point out, you'll need to upgrade to use that tool. 5. Import Your Images: The question is, how do you get your images into Lightroom on your smartphone? Well, if you're strictly shooting with your smartphone, Lightroom will access the photo library so you can begin editing your images immediately. Plus, if you use Lightroom's built-in camera app, it will auto add them to your library as well. And to find those images, expand the All Photos tab and you'll see a group called SLR camera photos. To access this camera app, click on the camera icon in the bottom right. But if you shoot with a DSLR camera, then you need to get your images off your camera into Lightroom. So how do you do that? Well, There's a few ways to do that. One of the easiest ways is using either the Lightroom CC or classic version of Lightroom to sync your photos from your computer, you'll need a first be logged into your Adobe account. And then depending on the Lightroom app you're using, you will have to set up the sinking via the preferences. Now if you don't have Lightroom on a computer, then you can take the images directly from your cameras media card, and transfer them to your smartphone, either through Wi-Fi or you'll need to connect your camera directly to your smartphone or your media card, depending on the cable that you have and how you connect will be dependent on your camera and the options available for connecting. Once you have your media card connected to your smartphone, you can then save them to your photo app or another folder of your choice. Then you will click on the Import button and you'll see a list of options to import your images from. So select the one appropriate for finding an importing your images. Now when you're importing, I would recommend putting your images into an album or folder to help you keep your images organized. And to learn more about that, make sure to check out the next tutorial, which is all about well, organizing your images. 6. Get Organized!: As you add more and more images tier smartphone, you're gonna notice the number of images will grow from hundreds to thousands and it can get very chaotic very fast. That is, if you're not organized. So now I'd like to share some ways to organize your images and how to find one photo among thousands in seconds. One of the things I recommend doing, if you haven't already done that, is to create an album or a folder to store your images and inter group them based on what you name that folder or album. To create one, you're gonna click on this plus icon and then you can choose either between an album or a folder. And then you can go ahead and type in your name here. Now to move images into that album or folder, you're going to need to make a selection of them and then move them. So here's how I'm going to go into all photos here. And then I'm going to click on these three dots in the top right. Then click on Select. And now you can click on the files that you want to add. And then at the bottom, you can select add two to add them to an existing album or folder. Now if you want to move images from an existing album or folder, you're gonna go into that album or folder, and then you're going to do the same thing. You're going to select the files that you want to either add to another album or folder. Or you can move them out of this one into another one by clicking on move to. And then you need to select your destination from here. Now one of the things I recommend to help you stay organized is to rate your images and to add keywords to those images. And this is going to also help you find specific photos later on when you need a specific photo for whatever it is you're working on for whatever project you need to do. Whether it's printing up images for yourself, posting them on your blog, posting them on Facebook or whatever the case may be. Now, to be able to rate and add keywords, what you're going to do is go into the editing module. So to do that, all you have to do is select the first photo in your group or the album or folder. And then you will have the option here in the top-left to either add keywords or to rate your images. So I'm gonna click on Edit here to get access to those options. We can rate and review our images. We could do that by adding up to five stars to the image. Or you can add a white flag if the image should never see the light of day again because it's a really bad photo. You can reject the photo with the last flag here with the little x in it. So why would you want to read it? Well, Let's say you have a 100 images that you just created and you want to start editing them. Do you want to edit all 100 or do you just want to edit your favorite or the best photos? While I would recommend and personally this is what I do. I just edit the best photos. I'm not gonna share every single photo I take out of a 100. There might be 51015 photos that I may want to edit. What I'll do is I'll scroll through all the images and the images I want to keep or edit or I consider to be the best of the best. I'm going to add five-stars. Now if you don't want to do the star system, you don't have to do that. Instead, you can use the white flag, which can also represent the images that are, are your favorite so that the rating system is based on your own personal preference. And then out of those other 85 photos, I'm not going to add a star or a white flag. I'm gonna add a black flag or a rejected flag. Now here's the cool thing. When I go back into my folder of images here, I can filter them based on the number of stars. So now I have 37 out of 474 images with a five-star. Now I can start editing these images only and the other ones I will ignore. Let's go back into the editing section here, and let's take a look at keywords. Keywords are pretty self-explanatory. You're going to add a keyword that describes that particular image so you can easily find it later on. This is a portrait of my daughter. So I may want to add in portrait as the first keyword, outdoors, my daughter's name. And then anything else I want to add to describe that particular image. I'm just going to type in portrait here. I'm gonna click done. And now when I go back, I can then filter all of these images based on that keyword that I just typed in. Now we have just one photo showing up in that album with that keyword. Now, what's even more powerful is when you have thousands of photos that you need to search through to find a specific photo because you don't remember where it is or what album or folder it's in. You can come into the filter option here and then do your search by the type camera, people location, keyword, or even edited like we talked about previously. So I can go into keyword here. And maybe I want all the photos of echo, and then I can select that. And because I have that keyword on all these images, it's going to easily find the images of just echo. Now if we go back into the library panel, here are the Libraries section. There is another way to filter your images based on people, and it's called the People feature. I think Lightroom is going to search your entire library for people. And it's going to try and find images of people that are similar and try and group them into a specific group of people. As you can see, I have a group for Bret Michael. There's 15 photos in there. There's six of echo. And if we take a look at the next one, That's my daughter. But there's also two more groups over here as well of my daughter. But Lightroom is not able to decipher who that person exactly is because there's something in front of her face. And that's why these five images are grouped together because they are similar. It's not 100% perfect, even if the person's face is completely visible. If we go into Bret Michaels here, we can see that this person is definitely not a Bret Michaels. So it's not 100% perfect. So that's why I still like to use keywords in my images so I can find that specific person that I need to find in my library. Alright, so I recommend organizing your images as literary as much as you want before you start editing. Like I mentioned, if you don't do it before you start editing, you're probably not going to remember doing it after. In the next tutorial, you're going to discover the editing tools available to help you achieve your creative vision. And if you're ready for that, lends to do it. 7. Editing Tools Overview: All right, It's now time to jump into the Lightroom editing module and discover where all the editing tools are. And this will only be an overview of the tools to get you started. In the next section, you'll discover everything you need to know about all the tools to help you achieve your creative vision. So the interface is divided up into three main sections. The top includes options for organizing your images, a history for undoing your last edit, a way to share your images, information about your Cloud account, and then additional tools for organizing and managing your images, and then some settings for Lightroom. Then of course, in the center, you will see a preview of the image that you're currently editing. Then at the bottom, you'll find all your editing tools and more ways to process your images. So let's do a quick overview of the tools and then in the next section you will discover everything you need to know about each tool. The first to include some advanced editing tools and to use them will require upgrading to the premium version of Lightroom. Alright, so the first one is called masking and it will allow you to make a selection and then you can target your edits to that selection. So at anything in red is part of the selection. And now I can go into any editing panel to begin adjusting that selection or the mask. In this case, you can think of a mask like a layer mask, which may already be familiar with if you've used Photoshop before. Now the healing tool gives you the power to retouch your images with the same control and precision that was once only available in Photoshop. And it's very easy to use and I'll share exactly how to use and retouch your images later in the course. Now, in this group, you also have the tool for cropping your images when you need to remove something from it or just change or improve the composition of your photo. Presets are another powerful tool to help you quickly and easily edit your images based on your creative vision. Depending on your subscription level, you'll see more or fewer presets in here. And I have my own presets as well. So accessing one of these preset groups will give you multiple previews of how your photo could look if you choose one. And later in the course, I'll share with you how to download over 50 free premium presets that we've included with this class. Or the next seven editing tools include options for adjusting your tonal range, the colors, special effects like vignettes and grain plus fixing, optic and perspective issues. Inside of the light panel, you will find edits available for adjusting the brightness levels of your tonal range. That includes the exposure highlights, shadows, whites and blacks, and contrast. Plus a more advanced type of tool for adjusting your tonal ranges, known as the curves tool. Again, you'll learn everything you need to know about these later on. The Color group of editing tools includes three main ways to control or alter your colors. And that includes adjusting your white balance. A color mixer where you can target a different colors. And then a more advanced color tool known as color grading. Color grading gives you control over adjusting the colors in the shadows, highlights, and midtones. The effects panel includes ways to add contrast, sharpening a vignette and grain. So in essence, affects detail includes a more traditional type of sharpening tool. And the ability to reduce the dreaded digital noise. Optics will help you fix issues that often occur with lenses like chromatic aberrations, vignetting, and other types of distortions. Next, we have another premium editing tool known as geometry. And this will help you fix perspective issues with buildings. Now the last four include different ways to save versions of your edits, resetting the edits. And more. Profile is one of the first edits I apply before anything else and you'll learn why in the next section. Basically a profile is a starting point for your editing when it comes to the color rendition and contrast. Version is a way to create multiple edits of the same photo. And previous is the way to copy edits from one photo to another. Alright, so that was a quick overview of all the editing tools. But in the next section, you're going to take a deep dive into each individual tool so you can learn everything you need to know about them to achieve your creative vision. So if you're ready for that, well, let's do it. 8. What's coming up next?: Alright, so in the next ten tutorials, you're going to learn how to edit your images in the Lightroom app. And this is going to include some unique types of editing challenges that you may come across for your own images, like fixing under or overexposed images. How to enhance the colors of a sunset or sunrise. How to fix low contrast images or images with a lot of haze. And how to boost your colors in Lightroom and much, much more to follow along and then to practice what you learn. I recommend downloading the images that I'm using for these tutorials. And you can do that by navigating to below your video here. And then you're gonna see this little tab projects and resources. Make sure you click on that. And then you can click this link right here in the project description to download the images. It's about 250 megabytes and size. So go ahead and download that may take a couple of minutes to download depending on the speed of your Internet service. And then later in the course, you're going to learn how to install presets. And I've included 50 presets that you can download from right here under this green button. So go ahead and download those images and then import and organize them like you learned in the previous tutorial. And we'll go ahead and get started with the first editing challenge in the next tutorial. 9. How To Fix Underexposed Images: All right, so here's the first image we're going to fix and Lightroom. And as you can see, it's extremely underexposed, although this guy isn't really all that bad. But we will enhance the sky a little bit by adding some contrast and darkening it up just a little bit. But more importantly, from the skyline down, we need to increase the exposure and adjust them different tonal ranges to bring out all the details in that part of the image. And we're also going to enhance the colors in the image so that they stand out a little bit more than they are now. And it's going to be much more vivid when we're done. Here's the final edit. How cool is that? I love it. How did I achieve this edit while this tutorial and all that follow, you'll see how I edit images with unique problems. And once you're done with this section, you'll know how to fix your images with similar issues. Also, I just want to mention again that I'm not going to go into great detail about all of the editing tools right now. Later in the course, we'll do a deep dive into each individual tool. This section is just to get you started editing sooner rather than later. If you're ready, let's get started. Now, typically the first two types of edits I like to apply to every image are to first select my color profile and then adjust the optics. Let's go ahead and start off by picking out a new color profile. I'm going to go into color matching here. And I'm going to select Vivid, which is going to give me the starting point that I want for the colors in my image. So they're gonna be much more vivid, more contrast, bolder, et cetera. Let's go into optics now. I'm gonna go ahead and turn on enable lens correction, which is going to fix any distortions created by the lens that created this image. All right, I'm now going to go into the light panel here so we can begin fixing the exposure. I'm going to increase the exposure just a little bit. We're gonna do some targeting adjustments in just a second to make it much brighter in different parts. I now want to fix the shadows by increasing that two plus 100. And now that makes the rest of the image visible, I'm going to increase the whites as well, which is going to add a little bit of contrast and make all the details stand out just a little bit more. All right, I'm gonna drop the highlights just a little bit because they didn't blow out the highlights with that adjustment. So I'm gonna bring this down to around minus in 25. Alright, let's begin working on local adjustments by applying a mask to the sky and then another mask to the rest of the image. And then we can target those areas to increase the contrast, the details and the colors and those different parts of the image. I'm going to go into my masking tool here. This is an advanced type of edit. It's gonna take a little while to get used to it. But once you begin learning how to use these tools, you're going to wonder how you ever worked without them. So I'm gonna go ahead and add a linear gradient here. I'm gonna click and drag down these three lines right here. That's the area that I'm going to target with my exposure adjustments via the light panel. I'm going to darken up the sky just a little bit. I'm going to increase, actually, I'm going to decrease the highlights to bring out some more details in there. And I'm going to increase the contrast just a little bit so that they pop a little bit more. All right, I'm gonna click on the linear gradient icon. Now, I can add another one. I'm gonna click here again. And this time I'm gonna click and drag up towards that skyline right there or the horizon, I should say so already about, right about there should be good. Now I'm gonna go ahead and increase the exposure so I can brighten up that part of the image. We'll get that. So that's pretty cool. So I'm gonna go right around 1.5 stops 1.5 on the exposure. I also want to enhance the details a little bit more, add some contrast and some sharpening that part of the image. So I'm gonna navigate to the effects panel here, and I'm going to increase the texture to around plus 15. And then let's increase the clarity as well. So both of these is going to enhance those details to help them stand out a little bit more than they were before. All right, let's go ahead and close out of there by clicking on this check-mark in the bottom-right, that's going to save those edits. And the other thing I'm noticing is the horizon now is crooked, wasn't as obvious as before. So let's go into the cropping tool. And I'm going to click on this ruler right here. And it's going to automatically fix the image and straighten it out. Pretty cool. Alright, hit that check mark again. And now we're gonna go into the color tool here to apply some color adjustments to make those colors pop a little bit more. I'm gonna go into the color mix to access the different color channels that I want to target. And then I can change the color with the hue, increase or decrease the saturation, the brightness levels with the luminance slider. For this image, I'm not going to make any adjustments to the hue. But for saturation, I'm going to increase the saturation for the orange, yellows, and blue. I'm gonna go around, Let's do plus 40. Looks pretty good. Then for the yellow, I think maybe a little bit less. I'm gonna do right around plus 15. And for the blue, I'm going to increase that just a little bit. Actually, I think that was aqua, so I'm gonna go to blue here and increase that as well. All right, I now want to go back to the orange and the yellows here. And I want to darken them up just a little bit. So maybe right around minus 21, looks good for the orange. Then for the yellow, maybe a little bit less, right around minus 15 or so. All right, I'm gonna click Done to apply those edits and save them. I think what I need to do next is apply a vignette. I'm gonna go ahead and drop this down to around minus 28, minus 30, right around there. It looks pretty good. I'm just going to click on the image now to remove all those editing panels so we can take a look at the before and after. And that can be done by holding your finger on the screen. So just press on the screen. Then that's going to show the before image. And once you release, it will show you the after image. How cool is that? I love it. 10. How To Add Contrast: So far our next editing challenge, another landscape photo, this time not underexposed, but some of the highlights are blown out and a little overexposed. We're gonna fix that. We're going to darken up the sky, make it more ominous. And we're going to also increase the colors of our flowers, add some contrast in the hills and make everything a lot more dynamic versus what it is now, I find it, it's a little flat and a little boring. So I want to boost everything to make it pop a little bit more and add some more interest. So here's the final edit that we're going to create. So you can see the flowers are much more colorful than they were before. There's more detail in the rolling hills and in the sky as well. Now once we're done with this particular edit, I consider this to be a classic, traditional type of edit. I'm going to style the image to create something a little bit more artistic, a little bit more cinematic. And this is what we're going to create after we do the traditional type of edits. So it's darker, it's moodier. It has a cinematic field to it. And you're going to learn how to create this style as well. If you're ready, let's get started. All right, just as we did with the last image, I'm going to start with the color profile for this one, I want to go with vivid. Again. I'm also going to turn on Lens Corrections. Now I'm gonna go into the light panel to begin adjusting the exposure. I want to bring the exposure down just a little bit. And I also want to bring back some highlights or some detail in the highlights. So I'm gonna drop the highlights down to around minus 80 or so until it looks like I'm getting the majority of those details back in the clouds. Alright, so that looks pretty good. The next thing I wanna do is I want to boost the contrast. And I don't want to use the contrast lighter. I like using the tone curve instead to add contrast. And we can access that via this little icon up here at the top where it says curve. So once I click on that and get this diagonal line here, and then I can create what is known as an S-curve, which will add some contrast in the highlights and the shadows. A little bit too much. So I'm gonna go ahead and turn this down just a little bit. And of course, we're gonna talk more about the tone curve later on in the class and why it's beneficial to use this versus the contrast lighter plus some other things that you can do with it as well. All right, I'm gonna click Done. And now I'm going to go into the color panel here to make some adjustments to the hue, saturation and luminance, actually, not the hue. So we're gonna go into the color mix here and we're going to target read first by increasing the saturation. It just a tad. I also want to increase the purple and the magenta for the saturation. A little bit more on those. And that's going to bring out those colors and the flower a little bit more than they are right now. Actually maybe a little bit more on this one here. I think we should also brighten up those flowers a little bit as well. So I'm gonna go ahead and increase the luminance for both those colors. All right, So that definitely helps those flowers pop off of that foreground now and they're not blending in with the rest of the image as much as it was before. I'm gonna click done. And now I want to add a vignette. I'm going to go ahead and drag this to the left. I'm just going to create a small vignette of around minus 15, so that looks pretty good. And then for the last step of this particular edit, I'm going to access the masking tool. What I'm going to do is I'm going to use the AI built-in and click on Select Sky and Lightroom's going to do its magic and automagically select the sky for us so we can target our edits just on the sky. How cool is that? That red overlay is showing the area being selected, which is the sky. That's exactly what we want. Let's go into the light panel here. And I'm going to darken up those clouds just a little bit, maybe around one stop of light. So minus one. Since we don't have the curves tool in here, I'm going to use the contrast lighter to add a little bit of contrast to those files there to help them stand out a little bit more. I also want to increase the texture and the clarity to add a little bit more contrast and sharpening to the Clouds. Which reminds me. Let's go ahead and click Okay, down here in the bottom. And let's go back to that panel again. Because I want to increase the texture and the clarity for the entire image. There's the before, there's the after. How cool that I love it. All right, let's go ahead and style this image now. And one thing we can do is we can actually create another version of this particular image. So we can keep this one and then create another version with another editing style. I'm going to go into the versions panel right here. So I'm gonna create a new version and I'm going to name it cinematic. Going to go ahead and apply. Now I can begin editing this image just like I did before, with the styles that I want to apply to it. I'm going to start in the light panel first so I can make adjustments to the tonal range. And I just want to make the overall image just a little bit darker than it was before. I also want to darken up the shadows, the whites and the blacks to create a darker, moodier type of image. But the biggest change is going to be in the color panel. But this time we're going to use the color grading option to apply colors to the shadows and to the highlights, which is going to give us a cinematic look based on the colors I select. The color combination. I'm going to use the popular one known as Orange and Teal, and it's used a lot in movies. I'm gonna start off with the shadows here, and I'm going to add a orange color to the shadows. I'm gonna go into the highlights now, and I'm gonna go ahead and pick out a teal color to be placed in those highlights. All right, I'm gonna go ahead and click Done. Actually, I think I want to make some adjustments in the Color Mixer as well. And what I think I want to do is I want to grab the blue color here. And I want to reduce the saturation so that there's more red in the clouds versus blue. I think I'm gonna go a little bit more. And then I'm gonna go into the purples and the magenta to change the luminance values so that they're darker and it will darken up those colors in the image. All right, let's take a look at the before and the after. 11. How To Target With Masks: All right, So we have another underexposed image, but we have some new problems that we haven't touched yet in other tutorials. And that is the faces of our sheep are very dark, so we're going to target that part of the image to bring up the faces so we can see them and their eyes as well. Overall, we're going to bring up the image, sharpen. It was some clarity and texture. We're gonna give it a nice color tone. And when we're done, we'll have our classic edit right here. Then we're going to style the image to add a different warmer color tone. As an added bonus, I'm gonna show you how to turn on the lights. What do I mean by that? Well, take a look at this image here again, and take a look up here in the top right, we have a little window in this building. And then the styled image, I turned on the lights. How cool is that? Alright, so I'm gonna show you how to do that and all the other edits in this tutorial. So if you're ready, let's do it. All right, let's go to the color profile here. For this one, I am going to choose the standard color profile. And then for the optics, once they turn on enable lens correction and you're gonna notice nothing happens. And that's because for some reason, Lightroom is not able to read the metadata of this particular raw file and it's not able to fix the lens distortion. So I'm gonna go ahead and leave that turned off. I'm going to go into the light panel nail to make some basic adjustments to the tonal range. And we're gonna start off by increasing the exposure. I'm gonna go ahead and reduce the highlights because I lost some details with that edit. And then I'm going to increase the whites just a little bit to make that part of the image pop a little bit more. Now let's go into effects and sharpen up the image just a little bit by adding some contrast and the details, I'm going to increase the texture and the clarity. I'm going to drop the texture down just a little bit. I'm also going to add a vignette while I'm here, just a little one minus ten. And then we can go into the colors to make some color adjustments. Alright, so the first thing I'm going to do is increase the saturation of the entire image. I'm then going to go into the color mixer here, and I'm going to make adjustments to the yellow and green colors. I'm going to change the yellows to be more orange. I'm going to use the hue slider to do that. I'm gonna go right around minus 75. And then for the greens, I want less green, but more yellow. I'm gonna change the hue to around minus 75 again. Alright, We're now ready to begin targeting our adjustments with the masking tool. The first thing I want to do is add a mask for the sky. So I'm gonna go ahead and click Select Sky. And Lightroom will do its magic once again, to select the sky for us. I'm gonna go into the light panel nail and I'm going to go ahead and darken that up around minus one stop. Alright, so that's it for the sky. I now need to add another mask, but this time I'm going to brush on my mask. So size-wise I'm gonna go right around 20 or so. And feathering, I'm going to leave at 100. And I'm just gonna go ahead and paint around the area that he wanted to target, which is mostly the foreground here minus the shape. I'm gonna get a little bit of the sheep as well, but that's okay. It's not going to be as much because it's feathered. So I'm just going to continue going around. A may need to go with a smaller brush to get in-between their legs here. So I'm just gonna go ahead and finish up this area here. And I'm going to lower my brush down a little bit smaller, maybe half the size here. And then I'm just going to tap inside of here. All right. Back to the light panel. I'm going to darken it up just a little bit. I'm going to add a little bit of contrast. I'm going to increase the shadows to bring up the shadows a little bit. So maybe right around plus 35. And then I'm gonna go back to the Effects panel so I can add some more sharpening by increasing the texture and the clarity. So right around plus 35 for both of those as well. Alright, so we need to create one more mask. And this time I want to make a selection of just the sheep. So I'm gonna click on Select Subject and hopefully Lightroom will be able to detect them and select all three. Boom, Perfect. All right. Now that I have that, let's go ahead and make some adjustments to our sheet. So let's start off by increasing the exposure. I'm gonna go one stop on them. And then I'm going to increase the shadows. And that's going to help bring out the faces of two of the sheep. And add a little bit of contrast as well. All right, let's just add a little bit of clarity to all three to help them stand out a little bit more. And to sharpen them up just a tad more. Alright, I'm gonna click the little arrow here and let's take a look at the before and the after. How cool is that? I love it. All right, let's go ahead and style this image now and add a different color tone. And we're also going to add that light in the window. I'm gonna go ahead and create a new version of this image. I'm gonna call this classic. Now in the previous tutorial, I named the version incorrectly. I should've called a classic instead of what I intended to have at the end, which was cinematic. All right, I'm gonna go ahead and apply that. And now when I create these additional edits, it will be saved as a different version, but not under the name classic. Alright, let's go ahead and work on the color tone. First, I'm gonna go into the color panel here and I'm going to boost the saturation even more so right around plus 40 or so. Then I'm gonna go into color grading. And what I want to do is I want to add some orange color in the shadows to warm up the image. I'm gonna find the orange color that I want. I'm gonna stick with, let's say maybe a little bit more orange, less yellow. So right about there looks pretty good. All right, so I liked that color, so I'm gonna go ahead and click Done. And I'm gonna go into masking now so we can apply that light to the window. What I'm going to do is I'm going to zoom in here so I can actually get access to that window because all those icons there up at the top are getting in the way. Plus it's kinda hard to see. So I'm gonna grab my brush tool. I can paint my mask on that window, Something like that. We're gonna go into our light panel nail. And I'm gonna go ahead and brightness up. I'm going to change the exposure to around plus 2.5 maybe plus three. I'm also going to increase the whites to around plus 25. Let's go into color now so we can apply a color to our light source. So maybe yellow, like so. I'm going to increase the saturation a little bit. And I'm going to change the temperature to around plus 7075. I'm going to go back into the light panel. Um, no tone this down because it's a little bit too bright now. Just wanted to kind of blend in there a little bit. If you grab your brush adjustment tool again, you can then continue painting on there in the area that you need it. I just want to widen this up a little bit, like so I'm going to apply that. And now let's take a look at the before and the after. How cool is that? I love it. 12. How To Fix Low Contrast: Alright, so for our next photo editing challenge, we have a new challenge and this time we have a lot of missed or haze in the image. And it's reducing the overall contrast of the image. It's very flat. We're going to fix that with a specific tool in Lightroom. And it's going to remove that haze automatically and add some contrast at the same time. Plus we're going to boost the colors a little bit and a couple of other edits. So here is our final classic edit, much improved. And then we're going to style the image just a little bit by adding a color in the highlights. If you're ready. Let's do it. The first thing I want to do is I want to select my color profile. And I'm gonna go with landscape. I'm going to turn on and enable lens corrections. Now let's remove that haze with the effects panel and we're going to fix that with the Dehaze tool. If we drag this to the right, it will begin reducing that Hayes and adding in some contrast, I'm gonna go right around plus 65, so much improved versus what we had previously. I also want to add a little bit more contrast and sharpening with texture and clarity. All right, so it looks like the horizon is a little crooked. I'm gonna grab my crop tool and automatically apply the straightening. That looks pretty good. So let's apply that. Now. I want to go into the colors here, and I want to fix the white balance right now. I find it to blue. I'm going to warm this up a little bit by dragging the temp slider to the right to increase the Kelvin temperature, which is going to make it more yellow versus blue. Okay, I'm gonna go back to the effects panel here because I do want to apply a vignette as well. And let's take a look at the before and the after. Much improved if I say so myself. Alright, I'm gonna go ahead and create another version here. And I'm gonna go ahead and create a new version, but I want to name this version classic. Done, Apply. And now we're gonna go into the colors again. We're going to use color grading to apply a color in the highlights only. I want a bit of a yellow to orangeish color, something like that, just to warm it up a little bit, I'm gonna drop the saturation a little bit by dragging those back towards the center right there. And let's take a look at the before and after one more time. 13. How To Enhance the Sky: Here's the next image we're going to work on for this photo editing challenge straight out of the camera. The overall image isn't that bad as far as composition goes, we have really good composition. Lighting is okay. It's a little flat and a little overexposed and parts of the water, and mostly in the sky. I want to target the sky, add some contrast, boost those colors in the sunset. So it's a lot more vibrant than it is right now. I can see those paints, yellows and oranges and the sunset, but they're kinda hard to see. We're going to boost all of that. And when we're done, we're going to have this final edit right here. So if you're ready to get started, well, let's do it. I'm going to start off by grabbing my color profile that I want to start with. By default, we have the Adobe color. Now watch what happens when I select the landscape color profile. Much improved, just based on the profile itself, we have more contrast and more color throughout the image, especially in the sky. It's not as washed out as it was before. The blues are deeper. The pinks, yellows, oranges, purples are much deeper as well, but we're going to improve that even more. I'm gonna go ahead and apply that and I'm going to enable my lens corrections. Next, let's begin in the light panel for our tonal adjustments. And I'm going to darken up the overall image just a little bit. Maybe close to minus a half a stop right there. It looks pretty good. I want to fix the highlights as well because they're kind of blown out. So I'm gonna bring some detail back in that area by dropping this down to around minus 75. Let's go into the color panel nail. And what I wanna do is I want to increase the vibrancy of those colors that help them pop just a little bit more, maybe right around plus 2830. Now, actually I'm gonna go into the effects panel next because I want to make sure I don't forget those. I want to increase the texture and the clarity of the overall image to add some more contrast and to sharpen it up. And I also want to add a small vignette of around minus 12 to 13. All right, let's go back to the color panel now. Now, I have a lot of adjustments here. So that's why I wanted to focus just on the Color Mixer last. So let's go inside of there. Let's start off with the saturation for the purple and magenta. For the magenta, I'm going to increase the saturation just a tad. And then for the purple, I'm going to increase that even more to around plus 30. That helps those colors in the sky stand out a lot more than before. Now let's target the brightness levels of different colors in the image to help those colors stand out more, especially those sunset colors. Let's start off with orange, and let's reduce the luminance down to around minus 35 to 40. I'm also going to do the same with the yellow, but maybe not as much, maybe around I think right there, it looks pretty good minus 22. And then I'm going to darken the sky here. Actually that was the wrong one. So I'm gonna go ahead and grab the luminance now and drop that down to around minus 22. Maybe the aqua as well, It's dark in those up. Then let's go into those purples and magentas again. And we're going to darken those up just a little bit as well to help those colors in the sky and the water pop a little bit. Now the last thing I want to do is I want to target the sky. So let's go ahead and create a new mask for the sky. I'm going to adjust the tonal ranges here. And I'm going to go ahead and darken up this guy just a little bit more and a little bit of contrast. And now let's take a look at the before and the after. 14. How To Create a Mystical Effect: All right, So for our next image, it has a lot going on and we have a lot of trees and focus, and it's kind of hard to decipher what exactly to look at first, although we do have a walkway here. And that has a nice leading line to writing us into different parts of the image. But I think overall it's a little bit too busy. So what I want to do this time is something different, more creative war, more artsy for the style. I'd like to utilize some dark and moody edits that create more of a mysterious or mystical type of effect. So here's the final edit that I came up with. So it's definitely dark and moody and has debt, mystical or mysterious type of feeling to it, which is what I was going after. If you're ready to discover how I created this particular edit, Let's get started. I'm going to jump into the profiles here. And I don't think we have a color matching option. So I'm just going to go with Adobe Vivid and I'm going to turn on Lens Corrections. Let's jump into the light panel next to make some adjustments to the tonal range. I'm going to darken it up just a tad, and I'm going to adjust the highlights a little bit to the left to bring me some detail back. In. The highlights, we do have some highlights that are blown out. Alright, so that should fix that. And I do want to add a tone curve to add a little bit of contrast. I'm just gonna do a little one here. Something like that looks pretty good. All right, I'm gonna jump into effects now. What I wanna do is I want to lower the texture and the clarity, which is going to begin blurring part of the image and making it softer, which is going to add to that mysterious, mystical type of effect. I think I'm gonna do both just a little bit more to around minus 40. I'm also going to add a small vignette as well. All right, let's make some adjustments in the colors now. And I'm going to drop the overall saturation down to around minus 15. Let's target the colors in the color mix option. Now, let's go ahead and start off with orange. And I do want to change the orange, so it's little bit more on the red side. So I'm going to increase that or decrease that I should say to the left to around minus 35. But I also want to decrease the saturation just a little bit. Just tone it down a little bit. So right about there should be good. Next, let's change the hue of the yellows. I'm gonna move this to the left as well too, right around. Actually, I'm gonna do a lot on this one, I think right around minus 80 to 90 should be pretty good. Let's also reduce the saturation quite a bit here to tone down those yellows. I think that's good for the color mix. I want to go into color grading now to apply some colors in the shadows and the highlights. I'm going to use the orange and teal color combination again to add a cinematic type feel. And this time I'm going to add teal to the shadows. And then for the highlights will go ahead and add some orange. Right? I'm gonna go ahead and click Done so we can get out of there. And then I'm going to go into the masking tool because this is where the magic is going to happen to create our mystical, mysterious, dark and moody feel. We're gonna start off by adding a mask to the walkway. Now here's the cool thing. If you use Select Subject, do you think it will actually select the walkway? I say Yes. And that's because the walkway is very different from the rest of the image. Lightroom is going to be able to recognize that with its artificial intelligence and select it as part of the subject. So let's see if it does. Boom, How cool is added. So it's selected our walkway with the Select Subject tool. I think that is awesome. Alright, so what I wanna do is a couple of different edits to this. By adjusting the tonal range, I want to reduce the highlights because some of the walkway is blown out in the highlights. I see. I think I need to do that a little bit more because what I wanna do next is I want to increase the brightness of the walkway so it kind of pops out of the trees a little bit more. In fact, I think I need to take that highlight slider all the way to the left, two minus 100. Also want to add a little bit of a glow to it. I'm gonna go into the effects panel here. And I'm going to reduce the Dehaze slider to the left, which is going to add some glowing to it by softening up those textures and those details. So I think maybe right around here, I'm gonna go a little more. Let's go up to minus 50. I think I want to tone down the colors as well. I'm gonna reduce the saturation just a little bit. Then I actually want to add a different color so it's a little bit warmer on the orange side versus the red side. Maybe right around there. I'm gonna go back to the exposure because I need to make this even brighter. Right around two and a quarter stops. Alright, now I need to select everything but the walkway. So I'm gonna grab my mask here. I'm going to expand the panel here by grabbing this little bar on the left side and dragging to the left, I'm gonna click on these three dots here. I'm gonna click on Duplicate. Now I have another mask in the same place, but we need the opposite. So the first thing I want to do is I want to add to the Mac. So I'm gonna click right here. I'm gonna select my brush. And I'm going to increase the brush size to the largest size possible. And then I'm just going to paint over the entire image. Now that's definitely too bright. So I'm gonna go back to the exposure here. And I actually wanted to make it darker so that the trees themselves or darker, but I need to remove the mask and the edits from this mask by going back and subtracting from the mask. And I'm going to use Select Subject to do that. Alright, so that removed the walkway from this particular mask. Now I need to make some additional adjustments to this mask to create that mystical feel. Let's go back and make some adjustments to the tonal ranges here. I'm gonna go ahead and darken up the whites and the blacks just to create a darker, moodier feel. Alright, let's go back to effects and we're going to adjust the texture and the clarity to the left to blur out that part of the image. And that is going to create that glow effect again, to create that mysterious type of mood or feeling. I'm gonna go a little bit further this time and I'm going to go into the detail panel and I'm going to drop the sharpness down as well so I can blur that out even more. And that's going to create that glow effect even more so versus not applying the sharpness at, let's say, minus 45. Alright, I think I need to make a color adjustment and I want a nice bluish, greenish aqua teal type color, so something in that range. So let's go ahead and make some adjustments here until we find the color that we like, whatever you like, go ahead and make that selection. And I'm going to add this little bit of green I think to mine. I think right about there looks good. Let's take a look at the before and the after. How cool is that? 15. How To Change the Depth of Field: Our next image has a lot going on in it as well. There's a lot of people and other objects in this image and there's no clear subject or direction for our eyes to travel. Although this person here on the left side is the most prominent and brightest of all the objects other than the building. Of course, I would say that he is the main subject of this image and everything else. Should take a back seat. We're gonna fix that with this photo editing challenge by changing the color tone for everything except for the main subject, reducing the depth of field. And then we're going to style the image with an old-school retro look. When we're done, we're going to have an edit that looks like this. So if you're ready, let's get started. Alright, so for this image, I want to start with the light panel and make some tonal adjustments. I'm going to reduce the highlights because the highlights above the building there are blown out a lot. So I just want to try and recover some detail in that area. I'm also going to darken up the shadows a little bit, and I'm going to increase the whites and decrease the blacks. Now I want to make an adjustment in the curve panel, and I'm just going to brighten up the highlights and the whites just a little bit. I'm going to increase the curve right about there. Let's go into colors next. And one of the things I like to do to create a retro effect is to lower the saturation and the vibrance, but not as much, just a little bit. So maybe right around minus 18 to 20. The other thing I want to do is I want to change the white balance so that the overall image is much warmer. So I'm gonna bring this up to around 11 thousand on the Kelvin scale. The other thing I want to do is I want to make a cinematic edit again by applying the teal orange effect for this image I'm going to apply warns into the shadows. And then I'll put teal in for the highlights. Next, I'm going to go to the Effects panel and I'm going to add a small vignette. Actually, I want to go a little bit more. Maybe around minus 25, minus 30. I think that looks good right there. Now we need to target our adjustments so that we can concentrate them on the main subject and then another mask for everybody else. So let's go into masking and let's do a Select Subject mask. Hopefully that detects our main subject. There we go. That's exactly what I wanted. So we have a few adjustments that we need to make. I'm gonna go ahead and start with the light panel. I'm going to increase the exposure just a little bit. I'm also going to add some contrast to help him stand out just a little bit more. Maybe right around plus 25. Let's go into Effects and let's add some more contrast with texture and clarity. Maybe not that much. I'm going to bring it down just a little bit. Right around the same for clarity. All right, to help them stand out, I'm going to go into colors now and I'm going to increase the saturation to plus 100. Now I want to make those colors a little bit more vibrant or saturated. So I'm gonna grab my mask here. Let's go ahead and expand it. What that bar, and I'm just dragging to the left to expand it. And I want to go ahead and duplicate that to apply those same edits as before. I think he's a little bit too bright now, so I'm gonna go ahead and drop the exposure down. And I can do that by double-clicking on the circle here to reset it. I may do the same for the contrast. Yeah, that looks much better. I now want to go back into the masking tool so I can then create a mask for the background to reduce the depth of field. So I'm gonna click on the mask one copy, three little dots right here, and I'm gonna select Duplicate to duplicate that mask. And then when I click on subject one, I'll have an option in the bottom left here to invert the mask, which will invert the selection from our main subject to the rest of the image. So I'm gonna go ahead and click on that. And now I can target that background to make it shallower or the depth of field shallower by adjusting the clarity and the texture. So let's go into the effects panel. And what I wanna do is I want to reduce the texture and the clarity to minus 100 to soften it up. And that's going to give the appearance of a shallower depth of field. I think I also want to do that for sharpening, just to blur it out a little bit more. Let's go ahead and apply that Edit. Alright, I think we have a couple more steps we need to apply to help create the retro vintage feel. I'm gonna go into the effects panel here and I'm going to increase the grain to around plus 65 or so. And I'm going to increase the size of it as well. Maybe a little bit more on the green. Then we're gonna go into our profiles since we haven't done that yet. Let's go into the different options here. I want to check out the vintage options and see which one of these I may want to apply. I'm thinking maybe number seven. So let's try that out. Perfect. That's exactly what I was hoping for. So let's go ahead and apply that. And here's the before our finished retro edit. How cool is that? I love it. 16. How To Fix OverExposed Images: Our next photo editing challenge is this image right here, and as you can see, it is extremely overexposed. The water, the rocks, the sky. All of them need to be targeted individually to adjust the exposure for each section of the image in order to maximize all the detail in the image. We're also going to boost some colors. We're also going to remove some people and both because I think there's too much going on in the image. And I just want to remove a couple of items. So I'm gonna show you how to retouch the image with Lightroom as well. When we're done, we will end up with this edit right here. Huge improvement over the original image, wouldn't you agree? Alright, let's go ahead and get started. Let's go ahead and start off with the color profile. I'm going to choose Adobe Landscape. I'm going to enable the lens correction. And I think we also need to crop the image or at least straightened out at the horizon since it's a little crooked. I'm gonna try the auto option here, but it's not working for this image. It can't find the horizon. So if we click on the outside of the image, we can then rotate the image according to what we need to strain it out. So I think right there 1.56 degrees will work. I'm gonna go ahead and apply that crop adjustments. Alright, let's start off with the overall exposure. Let's go ahead and darken this up about 1.5 stamps or negative 1.5 stops. So 1.5 or so right around there, that looks good. All right, So the highlights in the sky are pretty blown out. So I'm gonna go ahead and target the highlights now. And I'm going to reduce this to around minus 70. The shadows are a little dark now with those two adjustments. So I'm gonna go ahead and increase the shadows here to try and bring back some details in the shadows. Let's also increase the whites because everything is looking a little flat now, so maybe around plus 15. All right, let's work on our color adjustments next. And the first thing I want to do is I want to increase the color temperature to right around 5900 Kelvin. I'm also going to increase the tint to add a little bit more red, which is going to tone down the green. So right around plus 18. Next we're gonna go into the color mix. And let's target some individual colors here. I'm gonna start off with yellow, and I want the yellows to be a little bit more orange. So I'm going to slide this to the left to right around minus 45. Let's also increase the saturation around plus five or six. Let's go into the orange color now. And let's increase the saturation to around plus 30 or so. Then I want to go into the greens and I want to turn them from green to more yellow. I'm going to adjust this to the left to around minus 18. All right, I'm done with the color adjustments. I'm now going to go into the effects panel. I'm going to increase the texture and the clarity. We can increase that contrast and add a little bit more sharpening to the overall image. And I'm going to add a small vignette of around minus 15. All right, Let's go into our masking tools here and let's go ahead and start off by selecting the sky. I find the sky to be a little bit too bright. So I'm gonna go ahead and lower the exposure a little bit just to darken it up a tad. Maybe right around minus a half a stop. I'm going to drop the highlights to minus 100 to recover some of those details and the highlights that we're missing prior to that adjustment. And now we're gonna go ahead and go into the effects to add some texture and clarity, just to add a little bit of contrast in that area of the image. I think we can also go into the colors here and increase the saturation a little bit, just to add a little bit of a color contrasts between the sky and the foreground. All right, let's go ahead and go back and apply a linear gradient. So I'm gonna click and drag up to right about there. I want to target mostly the water here. That's going to get a little bit of everything else in the foreground there as well. But that's okay. What I wanna do is I want to darken up that part of the image. And I'm going to go around minus one stop of light. Let's go ahead and add some clarity and texture in this part of the image as well, just to bring out a little bit more of the details. Let's go ahead and apply that. Alright, I'm gonna go ahead and zoom in here so we can take a look at the next part of this edit, which is removing a couple of elements to improve the composition. The boat here on the left, the yellow one has a flotation device to the right. It's very bright and distracting. And then to the right of that we have three people in a boat. So again, reducing the amount of elements will help improve the composition. And we're going to use our Healing brush to remove those two elements. I know that my feathering is pretty good there at 50% and then my brush size maybe a little bit large. So if I click on that brush, hold down and drag down, I can resize the brush to the size that I need. I'm gonna start with the first item here on the left, and now I'm just going to paint over it. And Lightroom is going to try and locate another element in the image to replace it with. If you don't like that, which I don't because it's selecting the rock up here at the top. I'm going to click in the center and reposition that so I can select another part of the image to heal or to cover up that flotation device. Sometimes you may need to go over that area a second time in order to get good results. Let's go ahead and remove these voters on the right side. First thing I'm gonna go with a little bit larger brush size here. And now I'm just going to paint over these guys over here. And let's see what Lightroom gives us. So that's a pretty good adjustment. It removed them. Pretty good. I'm gonna come over here and paint in this area one more time, just to remove a little bit more of it, I'm gonna go ahead and zoom out here so I can see this area that was selected and I'm gonna drag this over to the right to help blend dead in a little bit better. I'm gonna go ahead and zoom all the way out here so I can take a look at this a little bit closer. Let's go ahead and apply that so we can actually see it. That looks pretty good. Let's go ahead and take a look at the before. And the after. How awesome is that? I love it. It looks so much better than it did before with the original straight out of camera overexposed tonal ranges. So now we've adjusted the exposures, properly, added some contrasts, some textures, some detail, and everything is much better composed than it was before. 17. How To Boost Colors: Our next image is the little flat. The colors are flat, so I want to concentrate this edit mostly on the colors. I want to bring out each individual color so that there are a lot more vibrant and have more contrast than they currently do right now. And this is what our final edit is going to look like. So I think this is much improved versus the image straight out of camera. So let's go ahead and get started. So what I wanna do is check the profile. I'm not sure if I want to change it or not. Let's take a look at the camera matching and let's take a look at one of these. Maybe the portrait. Nope, I'm not liking that. I think I'm going to stick with Adobe color for this particular profile, and I'm going to enable the lens correction. Let's go ahead and go into the light panel nail and make some basic adjustments from here. I want to start off with the highlights, shadows, whites and blacks for that part of the tonal range, the exposure is fine. We're going to darken it up just a little bit because I do think it is overexposed just a little bit. But we're going to bring back some detail in the highlights. First by dropping that down to around minus 18 or so. I'm also going to lower the shadows a little bit to around minus five. And then for the whites, I'm going to go plus 20 or so. And then minus 20 on the blacks. Alright, let's go into the curve option now. What I want to do is add a small S-curve to create some contrast. Now we're gonna do something else with the curve tool this time that we haven't done yet. And that is we're going to target a specific color. And the color channel I want to target is the green channel. Now when I make adjustments, if I bring this up, it's going to add green, pull it down. It's going to add red, which is what I want to do. I want to reduce the green and add some red. That's a little bit too much though. So I'm gonna go ahead and bring this back closer to the center or the starting point there in the middle, right around, there should be pretty good. I'm gonna go ahead and click Done. Next. Let's go into the color panel here to target some colors in the color mixer. And we're gonna start off with the orange color first. And what I want to do is I want to increase the color saturation of any colors in that orange channel. Maybe a little bit more. Weight around plus 14. And let's go ahead and darken up those colors while we're here, right around minus six. Next, let's go into the yellows. Let's increase the saturation for those. And let's also darken those up. Maybe a little bit more than the orange, maybe around minus 20. All right, we have some acquis and some blues. So let's go ahead and increase the saturation of both of those. We're also going to darken them up a little bit as well. Let's go ahead and go into the blues and do the same. This suggests that until you find something that you like, I'm going to go ahead and minus seven on the luminance. Alright, I think we're done with the colors. Let's go ahead and add a vignette in the effects panel. I'm gonna go ahead and drop this down to right around minus 50. Actually that's too much. Let's do minus 34. I'm gonna go back into the light panel because I do need to increase the exposure now I think it's a little bit too dark. So I'm just going to bring it up just a little bit. So right about there looks good. Now the last thing I want to do is something else we haven't done yet. And I want to reduce the digital noise and it's kinda hard to see until you zoom in. Let's go back to the effects panel here. I think it's in the details section here it is. I'm going to increase the noise reduction slider up. And that will begin removing that digital noise. I'm going to place that right around 50. All right, now that that digital noise is gone, Let's go ahead and zoom out and see if there's anything else we need to do. One more thing. I'm going to go into the effects panel again and I'm going to increase the texture and the clarity just to add a little bit more contrast and to sharpen up the image a little bit. All right, here is the before and the after. 18. How To Edit Portraits: Underexposed image. However, this time we're going to be editing a lifestyle portrait. And portraits themselves tend to have their own unique challenges versus landscape images or other types of photos in general, for this particular image, we're going to be working on fixing the exposure of the overall image. And we need to fix the brightness levels of her eyes, which will not be achieved with the global editing tools. Instead, we'll need to create a math for the eyes and I'll show you how to do that for this particular edit, since the eyes are very small and will be hard to target. Here's the final classic traditional editing style for this particular image. And we will then style the image to give it an old-school, dark and moody, retro feel. And here's what that's going to look like. If you're ready, let's do it. All right, at this point, you probably know the first thing I want to do and that is correct. I want to set the color profile. I'm gonna stick with the Adobe options here, and I'm gonna go with Adobe portrait because I like the color tones that I receive with Adobe portrait. Now as far as the optics, I'm gonna leave Lens Corrections turned off. And that's because I liked the vignette that I'm getting with this particular lens. Let's work on the tonal ranges of the image. I'm going to light panel here. And the first thing I want to do is I want to increase the exposure by around one stop of light. So right about there should be good. Let's bring back some details and the highlights. I'm gonna drag this to the left who are around minus 50. Now the shadows are dark, so I'm gonna bring up the shadows here and that's going to reveal some detail in the shadows. So maybe right around plus 30 for the shadows. I'm gonna go ahead and go into the curves option here. And I'm gonna create a small S-curve just to add a little bit of contrast. Now I have two points down here and I'm just going to double-click on one to remove it. All right, so that looks pretty good. Let's work on our colors and the first thing I want to do is I want to tone down the colors just a little bit. Even though this is a classic traditional style of edit that we're doing first, I'm gonna do minus ten or right around minus ten, so that should be good. All right, We're gonna do a lot of adjustments in the Color Mixer, and let's go ahead and start with our orange color. I'm going to change the hue of the orange. Be more orange or less yellow. So right around minus nine. Let's go ahead and increase the saturation of that now to around plus 18. I also want to bring up the hue of this as well, so plus nine for that color. All right, let's target green Next. And I'm going to change the hue. Must lie this to the right. Going to add a little bit more of an aqua color, maybe plus 17. Let's decrease the saturation of this hue as well. All right, I'm now going to target the blue color here. And I'm just going to make a minor adjustment to the hue. I'm gonna go ahead and reduce the saturation. And I also want to darken it up. Alright, so that's it for the color. Let's go into effects and add a deeper vignette. I'm going to go minus 20. I also want to increase the clarity slightly. For portraits, I don't like to add as much as I would for a landscape photo because I find that the clarity and the texture, if you do too much for a portrait, will make the skin tones look unnatural. Alright, We're now going to mask out the eyes and brain them up. So I'm basically just pinching on the screen here and dragging out to Zoom in for those that don't know how to zoom in, that's how you would do it. And the reason why I wanted to bring up the eyes is because I find them too dark still, even with Exposure adjustment we did previously. Now we can continue increasing the exposure to make the eyes brighter. But the problem with that is you begin blowing out highlights, details in the highlights and the whites. And I don't want to do that because we'll end up making parts of the image overexposed. So it's better to target specific parts of your image when the exposure slider isn't going to improve the exposure of the image overall. So that's a global edit with our masking. It's a local edit. I'm zoomed in as far as I can go. And I'm gonna use my brush tool to paint into her eyes. Now at 100, that's way too big. I'm going to bring the brush size down to just a little bit smaller than her eye itself. I can now begin painting in that area. So I'm just going to press along the I here. Instead of dragging, I'm just gonna try and target the eye as best I can. Now it looks like I accidentally applied the mask to her nose and her cheek there. So I'm gonna grab the eraser here. And now I can just paint over that area to get rid of it. Go back to your brush if you need to continue making a selection. Now what that icon directly on her eye right now, I can't really access it to apply the mask. So if you come over to your brush icon over here to the right, you can then hide that icon and the overlay. And then you can begin painting in that area. But it's not gonna show the overlay until you go back and reshow it. Now you can see I've gone outside of the line a little bit. So I'm gonna go ahead and grab my eraser tool. I'm gonna come right up to the edge of her high here to begin erasing it. Wear that mask, shouldn't be. That looks pretty good. And now I can go into the light panel and I can increase the exposure of the area being masked. Now again, I've got a little bit of the whites of her eyes being included in that edit. I need to continue editing that mask until I have exactly what I want selected. I'm gonna go in with the eraser tool and erase as needed. I need to go ahead and add a little bit to the I over here. Let's go back into the exposure here. And that looks pretty good. A little bit too much. So I'm gonna go maybe plus one to one and a quarter. Let's go ahead and apply that. Let's go ahead and zoom back in. And just make sure we have what we need in one eye is brighter than the other, that's fine because the I in the back is probably being shaded by her hat. I'm okay with that. I'm gonna hold down my finger here to see the before and the after. Let's go ahead and zoom out and take a look at that before and after as well. And I like to do this because it's sometimes helpful to see the before and the after to see if there's anything you've missed. I don't think we did. I think we're done with our classic edit. Let's go ahead and style this image Nail by creating a new version. All right, so for the styled edit, I'm gonna go ahead and go back into the light panel now because I want a darker, moodier type of field, I'm going to drop the exposure a little bit to make it darker. I'm also going to drop the highlights even further. Now, one of the things you're going to notice with highlights, when you reduce it minus 50 to minus 100, you're gonna start noticing that the overall image has less contrast. It's going to become flatter. Now for this particular editing style, that's okay, that's what I want. I want to add anything I can to enhance that old-school retro type of look. And a flat image, in my opinion, kinda helps that along the way. All right, Let's go into the curve window here. And what I wanna do is I want to target the red channel. The reason why is because I want to add a reddish brown tone in the shadow. So I'm gonna click once in the center here to add an anchor point. And then I'm gonna click and drag up to add that red color in the shadows. Maybe just a little bit more. Right about there looks pretty good. All right, we need to make some adjustments to the color now to add to the retro feel, Let's start off by reducing the saturation even further. Maybe a little bit on the vibrance as well. Then adjustments to the color mix. Let's go back to the orange. And I'm going to drop this back to 0. I'm just going to double-click on the circle here to reset that. I'm going to increase the saturation and I'm going to darken it up just a little bit more. All right, Let's go into the green color, reset the hue, decrease the saturation, and let's make it just a little bit darker. Actually, I'm gonna go a lot more in the green there. I'm not liking how bright it is, so I'm gonna go ahead and darken this up even more. Think the yellows need to be darker to. All right, I'm done with the color mix. I now want to go into color grading so I can apply our cinematic effect, the teal and orange look for the shadows. I'm gonna put the teal color in the shadows and orange, the highlights, back into Effects. And let's drop that vignette just a little bit more. And we also need add some green to round out the retro look. Want to add a lot, maybe right around there. And I'm going to increase the size as well. Here's straight out of the camera. And our final retro edit. 19. What's coming up next?: It's now time to learn how to create or develop your own editing style. And I have a four-step process that's going to walk you through how to create your own style with the next for tutorials. So if you're ready, let's do it. 20. Choose Your Editing Category: All right, so one of the most difficult aspects of editing is developing your own personal style or another way to put it is what is the end goal or what is your creative vision for your final edit? To help you determine your editing style, we can place them into two main categories, natural and creative. So a natural edit is pretty straightforward. However, a creative edit has unlimited possibilities. In essence, a natural edit is defined as the final edit representing the colors that are natural in nature. For example, you may remember this image from the beginning of the course, and the final natural edit represents what the colors and contrasts could look like in nature. The final creative edit, on the other hand, includes colors that were introduced in the shadows that are not possible in nature by themselves. So this is a creative or styled type of edit. Another example of a natural edit would be this one. Although I enhance the colors and contrast, these colors are still natural in nature. Hand, if time was permitted, I could have captured these colors in camera at sunrise or sunset versus during the editing process, then I would consider this one to be a creative or styled edit. Since I created a darker, moodier style and added an ether will glow effect. And here's another creative version with an old-school retro feel, with a romantic twist of colors. Now if you're not a big fan of styling your images, you can still have a signature style when it comes to natural edits. This is essential for portrait photographers. They want images to stand the test of time. But you can also have natural edits as a landscape or wildlife photographer for any type of photographer for that matter, if you prefer the beauty of nature's natural colors, developing your signature natural editing style is much easier than choosing a creative style. In essence, you're gonna edit your image to keep nature's colors intact and may enhance them based on your personal preferred style. Now, when it comes to developing your own creative editing style, that will be a little bit more difficult since the options are pretty much unlimited. But we can further define your preferred creative style into different categories. This can include, but is not limited to dark and moody, retro, very edgy, or a grunge. And even black and white images can be their own style. I would consider a dark and moody image to include a very little details in the shadows and they're dark. But the contrast and the shadows can either be bold, flat. A retro or vintage style consists of grain vignettes, lower saturation, and more. In fact, in the next section, you'll have free access to over 30 of my premium retro presets that I use for my own images. And the area editing style consists of warm, bright colors. This style is great for photographing people since this style of folks, a sense of happiness, excitement and more, an edgy style consists of sharp details and lots of contrasts, kinda like the grunge look of the nineties. Now, styling your color images to black and white is another creative outlet you can explore. Within the black and white category, you can define your signature style, but making the images warmer what the yellow or orange tint or you can age them with a brownish, reddish color. Or if you prefer her, you can alter the tonal ranges to create a more dynamic type of style. So the question is, how do you develop your own style? Well, you're going to find out with the next three steps, with step two coming up right now. 21. Choose a Specific Style: All right, so developing your editing style is all about discovering what you like and what you don't like, and then figuring out how to apply that style to your images. So we're gonna start off by exploring where you can find images and different styles for inspiration. And then in the next tutorial, we'll break down how to apply the styles that you like your images. In today's digital world, it's easy to find a vast assortment of editing styles and you can start your search with your favorite social media platforms like Facebook, Pinterest, and or Instagram. Now, one of my favorite places that I like to explore, especially when I need inspiration for a new location I'm traveling two is 500 pixels.com, so that's 500 PX.com. What I'd recommend is doing a search based on the type of photography you like to do. Or you could even search for a specific geographic location to give you some ideas that way. Now I like using this site since it enables you to save your favorites into galleries and it's 100% free. You just need to sign up for access to save your images. For example, you can find each of the editing styles you'd like and put them in their own galleries. Let's say you want to explore black and white editing styles. So I'm gonna go ahead and type in black and white. And let's see how we can organize different styles. So for this first image right here, I would consider that to be a natural black and white edit, the one just below it. I will consider that to be edgy since there's a lot of contrast and sharp detail. And then the one below it, I would consider that to be dark and moody with their own personal editing styles, since there is a brown tint to the black and white image itself. So depending on the styles that you like, what you can do is you can click on this little button right here. And then you can create a new gallery based on the styles that you want to save it to. Maybe dark and moody for this one, which I already have right here. Then you can go into your galleries to access all the ones you've created. Then you can go inside and review the images in there. So you can work on the next step of developing your editing style, which is to determine how to edit your images with that style. So how would you do that? Well, you have to study the images, the light, the contrast, the colors, the details. What do you see about those elements that make up the editing style for this image as an example. Well, is there a lot of contrast, or the contrast flat? Or the colors of vibrant or muted are the colors that natural or contrived. Do the shadows have a specific color tint like blue or yellow? What about the highlights? What's different or unique about the highlights? So basically you have to examine the style that you like very closely. And this is why I like 500 px because it allows you to save those images and then you can go back and study them later on. Now, once you've studied the images, what tools in Lightroom can help you achieve that editing style? Well, you're going to find out in the next tutorial. 22. Develop Your Editing Workflow: All right, So when it comes to editing, we can break down the anatomy of a photo into three components. These are light, colors and detail. When it comes to the light that is referring to the exposure of your image. And the exposure relates to how bright or dark your overall image is. We can even break down the light even further into five ranges of light, also known as the tonal range of your image. The tonal range consists of what is known as the black shadows, mid tones, highlights, and whites. The second component would be adjusting the colors of your image via the color panel, including the white balance, color mixer, and color grading tools. Now with these tools, you have complete control over adjusting and altering your colors. The third component that comprises your photo consists of the details in your image. This includes things like the overall texture, clarity, or the sharpness of the elements in your image. Now when it comes to editing your images with your preferred style, the good folks at Adobe have given us the anatomy of a photo. Editing specific tools known as the light color effects and detail editing panels. Let's look at some examples. So how can you use the light adjustments to achieve your personal editing style? Well, adjusting the exposure itself or the individual tonal ranges can alter the image to be brighter or darker. If you want a dark, moody image, you will adjust the light edits accordingly. All right, so after studying the images from step two, you discover there's a color tint in the shadows and the highlights. To replicate that, you can use the color grading tool by targeting a tonal range and adding the color you desire. Now, if you prefer your images to be warmer versus cooler than the white balance can be adjusted accordingly. If you want the colors to be brighter or darker than, use the Color Mixer to target the luminance of your colors. And you can even use it to change the color itself. When it comes to the details of your image, you have two main editing categories, which are effects and details. Within the effects editing panel, you can add grain to create a retro style. You can also add contrast that gives the impression of a sharper image with texture and clarity. So if the editing style you like is bold and contrasty than you'll use those two to achieve that style. You can also use texture and clarity to create something more mysterious by blurring out the details. And depending on how much you add, you can create a glow like effect. Now within the detail panel, you can enhance your details with a more traditional styles sharpening tool and to reduce grain or digital noise. Now, once you've completed all the steps to replicate your favorite editing style, you may wish to fine tune your editing with the masking tool. The masking tool allows you to apply your edits in a specific location of your photo. And then you can use the light, color, detail and or affects editing panels to complete your signature editing style. Once you understand how to use the tools which you'll learn everything you need to know in the next session, there is one more thing you should consider before settling on a specific editing style. So let's find out what that is in the next tutorial. 23. Use Colors To Evoke an Emotion: An often overlooked aspect of developing your style is considering how light and color can impact your final edit by telling a story and evoking certain emotions. So some of the best images ever created tell a story as part of that story. Certain emotions are you vote when you look at the image? How can you create a motion and tell a better story in your images with editing? Well, there are several different factors that can alter how someone feels when they view a photo. And that includes the quality of light, your composition, the colors in your image, the subject matter, how bright or dark your images, and more. Now, since we're concentrating more on editing in this class, we're gonna focus mostly on the emotions that can be evoked with editing, which are light and colors. Let's first take a look at how light can play a role in enhancing your story and creating a certain mood. Then we'll dive into colors when it comes to light, how dark or bright your images can alter the story and the emotion evoked when it comes to darker photos, they tend to create images that evoke mystery, sadness, or loneliness. They can also represent power or a threat depending on the subject in your photo. Dark clouds can feel ominous, are scary. But dark photos can also be thought of as having a refined or sophisticated look. You can also use the word intense. Those are just some of the emotions that you can expect from a darker photo. Bright photos, on the other hand, evoke moods that are almost opposite to dark photos. These types of images make you feel optimistic and happy. They can also be considered calm and gentle when it comes to editing bright or dark images. You can also use contrast to enhance the mood you're after. In essence, contrast is the difference between the bright and dark areas of your photo and the amount of contrast will alter the mood of your image. High contrast is ideal for dark and moody types of images. Adding more contrast also makes the images more intense or dramatic, loud, vibrant, and powerful. Low contrast is ideal for subdued or gentle modes or mysterious types of images. A low contrast image is more relaxed and not as bold. They're flatter and don't stand out as much as a high contrast image. Now when it comes to your choice of color, it too can impact the emotions felt when viewing an image. Now in terms of color, you have the hue, saturation and luminance values. So the hue is the actual color. Saturation is the purity of the color. And luminance is how bright or dark the color is. When it comes to the psychology of color, certain colors can evoke specific emotions. Let's take a look at a few photo examples. So red is passionate, love, or sexy, but it can also represent anger. So for this image, I enhanced the color of the sculpture to make it bolder than what it was originally. So a here is the original straight out of the camera and the colors are a bit flat and boring. At least in my opinion. For my editing style, I like to enhance colors to make them more prominent, bolder, intense, etc. To help tell the story better with the emotion of the color I'm utilizing. Now in this landscape photo, the colors at the time of capture, we're more on the blue side, and this represents serenity or tranquil, secure, or peaceful. For the final natural edit, I enhance the colors by boosting the contrast and adjusting the saturation. But for my creative edit, I wanted something more on the mysterious or spiritual side. And that is what The Color Purple can provide for your images. Now, since purple rarely occurs in nature, it can also be viewed as rare and intriguing. Now, for this image from my natural edit, I stuck with the colors as I viewed them prior to capturing the image. But I wanted a darker, moodier feel to match her expression. And I chose a brownish colors to evoke the color of earth. Plus browns are considered to also be deep and relaxing. Now when it comes to the color of sunlight, it changes throughout the day and creates different emotions. For this image, it was captured near sunset and I enhanced the yellows to be brighter and more vibrant. This creates feelings of warmth and happiness, which is ideal for couples and love. Alright, so back to this image again. This was shot in mid afternoon, mostly in the shade. Now, due to this, the color of the light was closer to blue. So blue can represent calmness or even sadness, which isn't ideal for this particular pose. Based on my editing style, I went with a warmer color like oranges and yellows, which represent passion, playfulness, excitement and more. Plus I went what they darker color, tone to help retrain the story that I wanted for this photo. All right, So when it comes to editing, you have to think about how colors and light can help you achieve your creative vision. And in the next section, you'll take a deep dive into each of the individual editing tools. You know how they work, plus more tips for editing your images. So if you're ready, let's do it. 24. What's coming up next?: All right, over the next several tutorials, I'm gonna share with you every editing tool in Lightroom. And we're gonna go into great detail about each of them so you understand what they're used for, how to use them, how to get the most out of them, and much more. There is 19 tools and total. So if you're ready to get started, let's do it. 25. Discover the Auto tool: All right, So when you start editing your images in Lightroom for the first time, it can be overwhelming with all the different editing tools you have available. I'm right. Which ones do you use? And in what order should you use them? While I'm going to answer those questions later in this class. But first, you may want to start off with the auto option. When using auto Lightroom is going to use its built-in artificial intelligence to try and edit your image to retain as much detail as possible in the highlights and shadows and to correct any exposure issues. Once upon a time, I was not interested in the auto feature at all. However, Lightroom has advanced a lot in the last 15 years when I first started using it. And the auto feature now actually does a pretty good job from the get-go, although I would say that auto works better for raw images versus JPEGs. So if you're having a hard time deciding where to start your editing, go ahead and hit that auto button to see the results you get for your particular image. Now, depending on your creative vision, this can be perfect the way it is. Or you may need to make adjustments, even minor ones to get the edit to look the way you want now for this particular image, let urine did a pretty good job, but I do want to make some minor adjustments. In the next lesson, we're going to tackle the tools in the light group. And if you're ready for that, Let's do it. 26. Discover the Light tools: One of the first types of edits I like to apply are the editing options in the light panel. These sliders allow you to adjust the tonal range of your image, which includes fixing the exposure contrast highlights, shadows, whites and blacks. So if you want to make your image brighter or darker, you can do so with the exposure slider. You're going to slide it to the right to make it brighter, to the left, to make it darker. Now if you're not getting the edit that you want, you can quickly reset the adjustment you made by double-clicking on the circle. Or you can click on this hooked arrow, appear to reset it. Now let's say you want to bring back some details in the highlights and the shadows. To do that, you're going to adjust the highlights slider to the left and to bring back some detail in the shadows, adjust it to the right. And the whites and blacks work in the same way. And of course, you can increase or decrease the contrast with this slider here, the contrast slider. Although there is another tool in here that I find is better for adding contrast versus the contrast slider. And that is with the curves tool. And we're gonna cover that in the next tutorial. 27. Discover the Curves tool: Alright, so when it comes to the curves tool, it is a more advanced type of editing tool and a little harder to get used to. However, once you know the power of the curves tool and how to use it, you'll wonder how you ever lived without this editing tool. Let's dive back into Lightroom and I'll explain the benefits of the curve tool and how to use it in different situations. To activate the curves tool, click in the top right corner here and you'll notice some new options down here at the bottom, as well as a grid and a diagonal line on your image. Now, the power of the curves tool is the ability to apply contrast in a specific area of the tonal range. With the contrast lighter, it's more linear or harder to control where that contrast is being applied within the tones of your image. Plus the tone curve gives you additional options as far as targeting different color channels in your image. If you take a look at the panel, you can see there's a red, green, and blue color option in each of those represents the color channel that you can target in your image. And I'll share the benefit of using those in just a second. First, let's review the two types of tone curves you have available. The default option is known as a point curve and the other one is known as a parametric curve. They both pretty much do the same thing. However, the point curve gives you more control and isn't as restrictive as the parametric curve. Personally, I prefer the point curve. Alright, let me show you how to use the tone curves for editing your photos. Now if you want to make your image brighter, you're going to click and drag it up. If you drag it down, your image gets darker. Now once you release, you leave behind an anchor point that represents where that curve bends. If you want to move where that curve bends, grab that circle and then readjust based on what you need. Now here's where it gets interesting. Actually, I need to mention something about this grid. First. The grid itself represents a different parts of the tonal range. This includes the blacks and shadows on the left, mid tones in the middle, and then the highlights and whites on the right. You can also change the black and white points, which are represented by the circles in each corner. I'm going to place my anchor point down here and to the left with the blacks and shadows. Now I'm going to click over here on the highlights and the whites and drag up to add another curve to that linear line. This creates what is known as an S-curve, since it looks like an S. Now, this is a popular method and one of my favorites for adding contrast to images since it's not as restrictive as the contrast slider. So from here, you can continue adjusting the amount of contrasts based on how much you want an each tonal range. Now another technique I like to apply with the tone curve is a mat like effect that will add a retro or vintage feel to your images. This can be done by adjusting the black point higher. This adjustment reduces the contrast and that part of the tonal range. And we can also reduce the contrast of the white point by dragging it down. Alright, so if you're happy with your edit, you're going to click on the Done button to get back to the light group. But there's one more thing I want to show you before we do that. If you go into the red channel, you can add red to your image by dragging it up. Or if you pull it down, it's going to add green. So why would you want to make these types of adjustments in each of the individual color channels? Well, you can do it for creative purposes or to remove color casts within a specific point of your tonal range. For example, let's say you have a red color tint in the shadows. First you'll select the red color channel. Then you're going to add a couple of anchor points to restrict the bending of the linear line to target the shadows. Now, I can pull down from here to reduce the redness and the shadows. How cool is that? Alright to reset the line back to the way it was, you'll double-click on each circle to remove them. And then if you want to do something creative, what you're going to do is you're going to select one of the individual color channels. And then you're going to add the color that you want, either by dragging it up or dragging it down. And then you will apply that particular color tint. Alright, so that's how you use the curves adjustment within the light group. Next up is the color tools. 28. Discover the White Balance: Alright, so within the color panel there are three individual color tools for editing the colors in your image. There's a lot of information to cover. So I've divided up the color tools into three individual lectures. This will make it easier for you to come back at a later time if needed, to review a specific color tool. In this tutorial, you'll discover how to use the white balance for color correcting your images and more. Now, once you activate the color panel, you'll see a black and white button in the top left. To the right of those are the color grading and color mix tools, which we'll cover in the next two tutorials. Under that, we have a menu that starts with As Shot, an eyedropper tool to the right. And then below that you have your white balance, vibrance and saturation editing tools. Okay, so the question is, what is white balance? Let's review what it is and please keep in mind that this is only an overview of white balance. For a more in-depth understanding of white balance, make sure to check out the article that follows this tutorial. The white balance is used to adjust the color of light or to remove color casts in your image. When it comes to making your white balance adjustments, there is no right or wrong selection. White balance is subjective and can also be considered creative depending on how you use it. In essence, the white balance is used to adjust colors to match the color of the light source so that white objects appear white. Now, depending on the light source, you will need to make changes based on that color of light in order to achieve objects that appear white. So let's take a look at the three options for tweaking your white balance and then you can decide which one is best for you. The first option here labeled as shot, will have more or fewer choices depending on if you're shooting in raw or JPEG. To reveal additional white balance settings, click on the word As Shot, and it will list the pre-made white balance settings for a specific type of lighting situation. And these may look familiar to you because these options are available on your camera as well. If you were shooting on a cloudy day, you may want to try that white balance option to see if that gives you the results you want. Now if none of these options remove the color casts and the neutral tones, you can try targeting them with the eyedropper tool, which can be activated by clicking on this icon. This will place a large circle on your image and you can move it around to target a neutral color like something that should be pure white, black, or gray. After moving the circle, you'll notice a new inner circle that represents the color that is currently being targeted. So try and find a neutral color. And when you lift your finger, it will give you a preview of the new white balance. If you're happy with that, click the check mark to apply the new white balance. Now, personally, my favorite way of adjusting the white balance is to increase or decrease the temperature slider as needed, as well as the 10th slider. And the reason why is, I know from experience that a temperature of around 5400 Kelvin is what I like for outdoor portraits on a sunny day. So you're going to have to experiment with this to find out the settings that you like under different lighting conditions to determine how you should set your white balance. Alright, so just below that, you have some options for changing the vibrancy and, or the saturation of your colors. Let's start with saturation. First. Saturation is how pure your color is. If you adjusted to the right, the colors are boosted to the left will reduce the saturation. And if you go all the way to minus 100, you will remove all the colors of your image. The saturation is affecting the entire total range of your image, like the highlight shadows and mid tones. Vibrancy, on the other hand, only affects the mid tones and parts of the highlights and shadows. So going to the right increases the vibrancy and to the left it's reduced. But this time when you go to minus 100, there's still a hint of colors in the shadows, mid tones and highlights. So that's the difference between Vibrance and Saturation. Alright, so that's it for white balance. And again, if you want more information on this subject checkout, the article that follows after that, we'll dive into the color mix. 29. Discover the Color Mixer tools: Alright, so the color mix tool can be accessed via the top-right icon. And this load is a whole list of color choices to target with three sliders. Overall, the color mixed tool is very easy to use compared to the white balance and color grading tools. But don't let it simplicity fool you. It can be a powerful way to alter your colors and help you achieve your creative vision. So let's check it out and discover how to use it. Alright, so in all, there are nine different colors you can target in your image. Once you select your color of choice, you can then change that color to something else with the hue slider. Increase or decrease the saturation of the color, or change the color to be brighter or darker with luminance. Now, sometimes you may run into a problem where you select a color that you want to target, but nothing happens. This is due to colors actually being a predominantly similar color to what you targeted. Fear not Lightroom has a handy-dandy colored targeting tool that will quickly and easily change the hue, saturation or luminance of the color based on your selections. For example, if I want to target the yellows and greens in the background, I'll click on the targeting tool to activate it. And then I'll click on the background and drag it up and down to change the hue. If you want to target the saturation, click on its tab at the bottom. Now, when I drag up, the colors will become more saturated and down will make them unless saturated. For luminance, the colors will become brighter as I drag up, and the opposite will make them darker. Once you're done with your edits, you may want to tweak them further with the sliders for more control. To get back to the sliders, click on the handy-dandy targeting tool to deactivate it. And when you go into the color of choice, you'll notice how the sliders have been updated with the changes you made with the targeting tool, and then you can make your adjustments from here. Alright, so that's it for the color mixer. Next up is color grading. 30. Discover Color Grading: Alright, so the color grading tool is a bit more complex, but allows more precision and control over the colors within the tones of your image. So I like to think of color grading as a way to express myself artistically based on my creative vision, for example, you can use it to create a cinematic type of effect or to create your own unique editing style. So let's dive in and review how to get the most out of using the color grading tool. The Color Grading panel is divided up into two main sections. At the top you have a single color wheel with four different options above it. So those represent the specific tonal ranges you can target on the color wheel. The first one is the shadows, followed by the mid tones, and then the highlights. The last one is a global color wheel that will alter the full range of tones in your image. The basic principle of the color wheels is to apply a color tint to a specific tonal range and to control the brightness levels within that tone. This is done by moving the control point to your desired color. To make adjustments, you'll click the control point and drag it to the outer edge. This will give you two smaller circles or control points. The inner control point represents the saturation level of the color being targeted. And the outside control point represents the actual color or the hue. Now, if you want the color to be rich and saturation, move the control point closer to the outer edge. Placing it in the center, we'll set the color saturation to 0. And you will not be able to change the hue until you increase the saturation. Now, the second part of the Color Grading panel includes three more options for adjusting your colors. From here, you can change the brightness level of the color with the luminance slider. The next two sliders are global controls and determine how the range of colors interact with one another. So blending provides control over how much each of these tonal ranges overlaps with each other. And usually overlapping colors are a good thing. And I'll demonstrate by converting this to black and white. I'm going to add a color to the shadows. With blending set to 0, you can see that the color is now confined mostly to the shadows. And when I set it to 100, the colors begin to overlap with the mid tones. So adjusting this will allow you to create a smoother transition of colors from one tonal range to another, then balance will increase or decrease the color within all the tones. For example, if I change the balance to 100, the color is removed completely. Alright, so the color grading tool is something you'll have to experiment what to see, how to use it for your creative vision. Make sure to check out the editing challenges, to see examples of how I've used this color tool creatively. Next up is the Effects panel. 31. Discover the Effects tools: All right, So the effects group of editing tools as another option for achieving your creative vision with five different options. We have texture, clarity, and the haze that provide another way to control the contrast of your image. And they can also affect how sharp your image is. Then there's an option to add a vignette and another for adding grain. So let's take a deep dive into each of these editing tools. According to Adobe, the Texture slider was initially created primarily for retouching people, in particular, smoothing skin. The Texture slider can be used for enhancing details in your photo as well. It enhances detail by increasing the amount of medium-sized texture in your photo without affecting the finer details. Doing the opposite will reduce the texture, which gives the appearance of it becoming smoother when it comes to the Texture Edit, I'll Boucher for landscapes that will do the opposite for portraits. However, sometimes I may want to increase the texture of a portrait when the landscape dominates the image, or at least as a larger portion of the image. So you'll have to play with it with your images to see what results you like. Alright, so clarity sometimes gets confused with sharpening and sometimes contrast because when you add clarity, it gives you the impression that you're sharpening your image. And in a way it is. But the way it's being applied is different versus contrasts and sharpening. Contrast is sharpening are affecting the entire image or the entire tonal range, like the highlights, shadows, and mid tones. But when it comes to clarity, It's not adjusting the entire tonal range. Instead, it's focusing mostly on the mid tones of your image and maybe a little bit of the highlights and shadows as well. And it's basically targeting those tones along the edges of contrast from one side to the other. So it gives an appearance of sharpening because it's adding that contrast mainly in the mid tones and not the entire image. If we adjust the clarity to the right, it will increase the sharpening or that contrast. And it will make that image look sharper. If you do the opposite, it will flatten out the mid tones and reduce the contrast, which will make your image looks softer. I would recommend limiting the amount of clarity you apply, especially to portraits. Like any editing tool. If you go too far, it's going to make your images and the people look unnatural unless you're going for that old-school retro grungy type look, then you may want to consider adding more clarity from my portraits. I like anywhere from five to ten, at the most, maybe 15 once in a while for landscape photos, I tend to do a little bit more because I like to create that pop that clarity gives me for my landscapes. So I'll go 2025, maybe 30 at the most, depending on the image. And a rarely go to the left unless I want to create that effect. But for me personally, it's not my style. That's something you are going to have to experiment with your own images to see how much clarity you want to add or remove. Alright, I'm gonna go ahead and move on to another photo now so I can show you a dehaze. Dehaze is going to allow you to diminish or remove haze in your image or give the appearance by adding haze. This particular image was backlit and it created a haze type effect to the image. If I want to decrease that haziness, I can adjust the slider to the right and it will begin removing that Hayes. And it does so by increasing the contrast and the highlights of the image. If we go the opposite way, it will begin adding that haze in the highlight areas of the image. Next, you have an option for adding vignettes of that's something you're into. And adjusting to the right, we'll add a bright vignette and to the left, a darker vignette. Now the sliders just below give you different ways to alter the appearance of the vignette. And these are pretty self-explanatory, so go ahead and play with those to see the results they give you. All right, so our last editing tool is green and this is going to add to your retro or vintage look if that's your style. If you're trying to create a retro or vintage look, then he can do that by adding some grain by moving the slider to the right. You can also increase the size of the grain and, or the roughness which will increase or decrease the contrast of the grain. Alright, so that's it for the editing tools in effects. And next up is the detailed tool. 32. Discover the Detail tools: Alright, so in the Details panel you have two specific types of edits you can use for your images. The first is the sharpening tool, and the other is a Noise Reduction tool. So let's check out sharpening first. Alright, to make this easier, to see what's happening, I'm going to zoom in and increase the sharpening to the maximum which I don't recommend doing. Now, when it comes to the radius, it looks for the edges within the photo, like the edge between her face and the leaves. And as you increase the radius, it compresses the information from one side of the edge to the other, and then it appears to sharpen the image in detail. We'll try to sharpen more of the detail versus the edges. So your last option is masking, which is going to allow you to reduce the amount of sharpening from your highlights to your shadows depending on the amount applied. For example, watch her skin as I increase the masking. And you'll notice the sharpening is being removed from the highlights. And the further I go it continues removing that sharpening in the mid tones and then the shadows. This is a great way to ensure your NADH over sharpening things like skin. When you shoot images with a high ISO like eight hundred and sixteen hundred or higher, your image will end up with what is known as digital noise. And it kind of looks like grain. If you want to get rid of that noise, you can use the noise reduction tools in the Detail panel. Under the sharpness sliders, the first slider reduces the digital noise. And the further you go to the right, the more of it that is removed. How much noise reduction you need depends on how much digital noises in your image. However, applying too much noise reduction can cause your image to become degraded. For example, if I set the slider to the maximum, you'll notice the skin is very smooth and lacks any detail. This creates skin that looks like plastic and it's not something I recommend. But if you have a very noisy image and need to apply more reduction than normal, you can use the Detail slider to try and bring back some of that lost detail. Now contrast will also help to bring back some detail by adding contrast. The next slider is called color noise reduction. So how is this different from noise reduction? Well, this depends on the type of digital noise your camera creates. Most DSLR cameras create noise that is grayish in color, but some cameras sensors create digital noise that looks like specks of color. Plus, if you over edit your image, like increasing the shadows too much, or because you underexposed your image than that to create digital noise. And it's more likely to be colored specs. If that's the type of noise you have, then you should use these three sliders to remove that color noise. The Detail slider works the same as before, and smoothness is similar to the contrast slider. Alright, so that's it for sharpening and digital noise. Later in the course, I'll provide some more pro tips on making sure you don't over sharpen your images. Until then, you'll discover what the objects are used for and how to use them to fix your images. In the next tutorial. 33. Discover the Optics tool: All right, So the purpose of the optic edits is the fixed issues that are caused by lenses and that is chromatic aberrations and lens distortions. But these editing tools only work on raw files since Lightroom needs to read the metadata of the file like the camera and lens used. With that information, Lightroom can then fix any distortions. So a chromatic aberration occurs when the colors of light traveled through the lens and they don't meet at the same point. They aberration will appear in multiple colors, kind of like a mini rainbow. If you notice these color fringes turn on the chromatic aberration and Lightroom will do its best to reduce or remove them altogether. When it comes to lens distortions, all lenses creates some type of distortion along the edges or corners of your photos. It could be a vignette, which we can definitely see in this image. And no, I haven't applied a vignette from the Effects panel. So this vignette was created due to the wide angle lens that I used. The other thing that's lens did was it distorted the edges of the image. To fix these distortions, turn on the lens correction option. 34. Discover the Geometry tool: All right, I don't know about you, but geometry sounds intimidating and I don't remember doing all that well with it in school. No worries though, no math is involved and using D geometry editing tool. So what is this editing tool used for? Well, it's purpose is to help you fix perspective issues with your images, with architecture. All right, let's jump back into Lightroom. And for this particular image, I used a wide-angle lens and I stood pretty close to the corner of the building so I could capture both sides of it. By doing that the perspective was warmed due to the angle and the lens used. And as you can see, the building is leaning on the right and left sides. We can use the geometry tool to fix it so that the building is no longer leaning on either side. So let's review the different ways to fix an image like this. One way is to use the guided tool, which will allow you to plot vertical and horizontal lines on your image. And then based on those lines, Lightroom will fix the building. Now, using the guided tool is a great choice when one of the other methods does not work. My recommendation is to first use the auto option and then tweak it with the sliders below to adjust as needed. And that's because I find the auto option tends to work quicker for most images versus the guided method. Let's try out the auto option here and it looks like the image has been fixed. It looks pretty good. Just with that option alone. Let's go ahead and try level. And that one doesn't work for this image. We can also try vertical, which looks like it's a little bit better than the auto option. And then full, I have no idea what this option is useful because it's pretty much useless. And my opinion, if I go back to vertical, it looks pretty good. But if I wanted to, I could begin adjusting these other sliders to try and improve the image or the perspective even more so. Now, you're gonna notice as I make adjustments here, there's some white appearing on the image. So if that happens, but you'd like the perspective that you have on the building. You can use constrain crop by turning it on and then it will automatically crop out the white parts that were applied during your auto adjustments or any other sliders that you've applied. So all of these edits here are pretty self-explanatory when you go through them, experiment with each one of them so you know how they affect your image. And then you can use them according to what you need to fix the perspectives in your image. All right, so that's how you use the geometry tool. And in the next tutorial, we're gonna take a look at profiles and dig a little deeper into what they are and how to use them. 35. Discover the Profiles: Alright, when it comes to editing in Lightroom, you have a lot of options. But one of the most often overlooked and important editing tools as setting your profile. What exactly is a profile, and how does it work? Well, the color profile will allow you to control how the colors and the tonality of your image are rendered based on the profile that you select. Each camera manufacturer, nikon, Canon, Sony, etc, have their own specific algorithm for creating a color profile based on that camera's sensor. The way your camera renders contrast and color is dependent on the type of sensor you have. How the manufacturers choose to render those colors. The colors can be more or less vibrant and the contrast can be boosted more or less, all depending on the color profile you choose. Plus, if that wasn't enough, Adobe has created their own interpretation of how those colors and contrasts should look with additional color profile choices. When it comes to choosing a profile, It's a personal preference and you should think of them as the starting point of your name. That is, if you shoot in raw, and that's because only raw files are capable of being updated with Adobe and camera matching profiles. Now another thing you should know about profiles is most DSLR cameras allow you to choose your color profile in camera. If you set your favorite profile and take some photos and import them into Lightroom, then Lightroom will auto select that profile that you shot with. Now if you didn't make your profile selection at the time of capture, then you'll have to manually select during the editing process. So let's take a look at some different profiles to see how they alter your images. All right, to access the profiles, you're gonna scroll all the way to the right and you're going to click on the profile option. Now by default you have a list of favorites here, and I'll show you how to update that favorite list with your own profiles in just a second. First, go ahead and click on the word favorites to reveal a menu of additional profiles to select from. I have seven in Adobe raw, 31 camera matching, eight and artistic. And then I have some in the black and white modern and vintage categories. All right, I'm gonna go ahead and exit out of here, and I'm gonna scroll to the right so I can access a JPEG file. And if I go back into the profiles now, you're gonna notice there's only two options in the favorites and basic, and then I still have the other options below it. The JPEG file cannot access either the Adobe or camera manufacturer profiles like I mentioned previously. Alright, so I'm gonna go back to the raw files so we can take a closer look at the Adobe and camera profile options. Now under Adobe, by default, we have Adobe color selected. And if I select Adobe Landscape, you're gonna notice that the colors are much more vibrant and the contrast is much deeper versus Adobe Color, then Adobe neutral has less contrast and the color saturation is less intense. So if you would like to learn more about each of these Adobe Color Profiles, make sure to check out the article that follows this video tutorial for a deep dive into each of the profiles. Now let's take a closer look at the camera matching options and compare them to the Adobe profiles. Now, like I mentioned before, these profiles can be selected in camera. That is, if you have the same camera that I have and your camera matching profiles will be different and how many you have will be dependent on your camera. The first option I have here is from this Nikon D 500, and it's similar to Adobe neutral. And then let's take a look at landscape. And you're gonna notice it's similar to Adobe Landscape, however, because these were created by different manufacturers, Nikon versus Adobe, they are slightly different from the others. If I scroll to the right, I will see the additional options and some are probably not useful, at least for my taste. Then there are some more practical artistic types profiles. So you'll have to go through all the different profiles you have available to decide which one will work based on your creative vision. Now if you're not finding any profiles that you like from your camera or from Adobe, then you can access the profiles from one of the other four groups. So I'll let you check those out for yourself. Now, you may have noticed in these groups that some of the images have a white star and some do not. While the star represents those that have been saved as a favorite. To remove an image from the favorites, you're going to click on the star and then you can remove it from this window. Now if you want to add a profile to your favorite, you're going to select that profile. And then you're going to notice a star with a gray box around it. Once you click on that, it will automatically be added to your favorites. 36. Discover the Versions tool: Alright, so you may remember in the photo editing challenge section, I created versions of my edits, but I didn't really explain too much about them at the time. In this tutorial, I would like to go into a little bit more information about versions, how they work, and how to use them for your images. The question is, what is a version? In essence, a version as a copy of your photo with the current Edit Settings you applied. But when you create a version, you're not actually duplicating the physical photo file. Instead, you're creating another preview thumbnail of that image. And that preview is much smaller than the original file. So I wouldn't worry about decreasing the amount of space on your smartphone when using versions, since they take up very little space. Now the main purpose of versions is to give you the flexibility to create multiple versions of your edit and easily see them side-by-side. For example, you can have a black and white version, a traditional version, and a retro version, which is perfect if you can't decide which style you prefer and you can save each type of editing style as well version. All right, let's jump back into Lightroom again, and let's go to the versions window. And you have two columns and the first one is called named. And then we have auto named includes any versions that you created with a specific name. Auto on the other hand, will auto create versions based on the date and time when you begin editing. Let's take a look at these in action, okay, under named, as you can see, I have several versions. There's the current preview I'm working on, then, retro, black and white and the original. Now, each of these previews or versions shows the edit done at the time I created that version. If I want to save the edits under the current preview, I'll click the Create version button, name it, and then click Create. So that added that version next to the others. And now I can continue editing from that point with the current preview. Now if I go into auto, you're going to see all the versions that were created automatically based on the date and time of when I started editing the image. So if I select one of these and hit Apply, I can either create a version from here or continue editing with the current preview. Alright, let's say you created a version that you no longer need. Well, if you click on these three little dots, you'll get some options to either delete all named versions or delete all auto saves. But what if you only want to delete one version? Not all of them? Well, select the version you want to get rid of and click on the three dots next to the apply button. And now you can either rename or delete that version. Alright, so that's it for versions. Next up is discovering the power of presets. 37. Discover the Previous tool: Now that you know what the power presets, I want to show you another way that you can copy edits from one image to another without creating a preset. This will be helpful when you have some edits that you don't necessarily want to use again in the future, but just for the images that you're currently working on. For example, let's say you have multiple images that you shot in the same location and all the images have the same lighting source. Well, instead of editing every photo one at a time, you can copy the edits from the last one and add them to the current image. So if we scroll all the way to the end here, you're going to see an option called Previous. Once you've clicked on it, you'll see two options and they are adjustments and all. But which one should you use? Well, all is self-explanatory and it's going to take all the edits you made and apply them to the current image. For this image, I will adjust the exposure all the way up. And now I can copy those edits to this image when I choose either option. Alright, I'm gonna go back into exposure and drop it down. And I'm going to grab my Clone tool to demonstrate the other option. And I'm just going to paint on the image real quick. All right, now, when I choose adjustment, only the exposure was copied and the clone was not. But if I hit all, it will copy all previous edits. Alright, next to previous, you have some options for resetting multiple edits at a time versus what I've shown you so far by removing one edit at a time. And as a reminder, you can do that with the hooked arrow at the top or double-click on the edit tool name. Alright, so adjustments will remove everything but any retouching. And all of course will reset everything back to the original file. Now if you've done some editing on your tablet or laptop and import the images into your smartphone. You can reset any edits you've done back to the time of import. Alright, next up is a pretty cool feature which will allow you to retouch your images in Lightroom. I love this particular editing tool. It's gonna be awesome if you're ready for that. Lends to do it. 38. Discover the Retouching tool: Alright, I'm now going to share with you how to retouch your images in Lightroom with two tools that were once only available on Photoshop, which are the healing and cloning tools, both of which applied the retouching edits differently and have their own unique advantages. So let's review how both retouching tools affect your image and then I'll share some tips for using them. Alright, so the clone tool is going to copy pixel information from one part of your photo that you define. And it's going to copy that information to cover up pixels you're trying to fix. So basically you're going to tell Lightroom, I want these pixels copied exactly over these pixels over here. Let's try it out with the clone tool activated. I am now going to click on a blemish to copy the pixels from one part of the image to the other. And Lightroom is going to try and find pixels that are in similar in texture, detail, color, and luminance. To try and blend in the pixels from one to the other, to try and retouch that part of the image. And we now have an update on the image based on these two circles. One is copying the pixels from one area and placing them in the other. And we'll talk more about these circles later on in this tutorial. Let's go ahead and check out the heal tool next. Now when it comes to the heal tool versus the clone tool, as I mentioned, it's being applied differently. When using the heal tool. It's looking for a texture or a pattern to cover the area that needs to be retouched. And then it blends those pixels with the area being retouched, which results in a much more natural and realistic type of retouch versus clone. So let's check out how this tool compares to the clone tool. I'm gonna grab my heel tool, and I'm going to click on my image again to try and cover up a blemish. Now, the pixels are being copied from one area to the other, but this time they are being blended together with the pixels being retouched more so than the clone since they're not being copied exactly. Instead they're being blended together, which is a much more natural result versus the clone tool. Now the question is, which one should you use? And when? While I find that the heal tool works great and portraits and skin in particular. But I find the clone tool works better when there's a straight edge, like in hair or the edge of the person's clothing in the background. But then again, it all depends on the image. And you'll have to practice with both to get the most out of these retouching tools. All right, before we wrap up this tutorial, I have some tips for using these tools. First, you'll notice under the tools you have three circles and a trash cans. So the circles represent how you can customize your brush. The first one we'll adjust the size and the way they do that is by clicking on it and dragging it up to make it larger and down to make it smaller. The second brush icon represents the amount of feathering on the brush. So feathering will smooth out the transition from your edit to know Edit along the edge of the brush. And if I drag this down to 0, I now have a hard-edged brush and the edit will have more of an edge versus a smooth transition. Now the third brush icon will adjust the opacity of your edit. At 100, you'll get the full effect of the edit. And if you drop it down than the original pixels you are trying to retouch will show through. This is useful to ensure you don't lose any details. A few tips for applying and altering your edit after you brush it on. When retouching, it's probably a good idea to zoom into the location you want to work on. Then to remove the blemish, just click on it and let your own will do its magic to find a similar area to cover it up with. What you're left with are two circles. The circle where you clicked will be thicker versus the second. And the second represents the area of your photo where the pixels are being collected to retouch your image. Now at this point you can resize the brush, change the feathering, or the opacity. Once you're happy with that edit, you can then click on another blemish to continue retouching as needed. Another thing you can do is brush on the Edit instead of clicking on your image. This is useful when you have a long blemish like a scar or maybe a stray hair on the face. And you want to remove it in one stroke. That can be done by clicking and dragging your finger across the area that needs to be retouched. This time we don't have a perfect circle. Instead we have the shape that was painting on the image. And a second duplicate showing where the pixels are being sampled from. Now, you might encounter a situation where Lightroom doesn't give you the results you were hoping for. For example, if Lightroom samples a part of your image that isn't consistent with the area needing to be retouched. You can drag the circle or shape to a new area, be sampled from that area versus what Lightroom gave you. So for the shape, Lightroom includes an anchor point that you can click and drag to a new location. For the circles, you can click on one and move it as needed. When you have multiple edits though, you can activate another one by simply clicking on the circle or the anchor 0.1 last tip, Let's say you touched a blemish with the clone tool, but you meant to use the heal tool? Well, simply select the heal tool and the retouch will update according to how it works versus the clone tool. Okay, so the headset for retouching next up is another powerful tool for editing your images known as masking. 39. Discover the Masking tools: Alright, so masking and Lightroom is going to take your editing to a whole new level. With it, you can target specific areas of your image with the edits that you want to apply to that area. For example, if you have a portrait and you want to target the subject and not the rest of the image. Lightroom has a built-in AI tool that will automatically select your subjects so you can adjust the exposure, contrast, sharpening or whatever it is you want to do to edit that person. In addition to selecting a subject, you can also use the tool to select the sky. You can also brush on your mask. There's also two types of gradients. And you can also make a selection with a specific color range or luminance range. Let's jump into Lightroom to discover the mask tool and discover how to use each one of these types of masking tools. Alright, let's get started by adding a new mask, by clicking on the Add Mask button, which is this big blue circle. And I'm going to click on Select Subject and hopefully lie here and we'll select just our subject. And it did. How cool is that? Now I can go into any one of these editing panels and make adjustments to just the subject. Pretty cool if he asked me, I love it. And that's because masking makes editing so much easier when you can target the area that needs to be edited and nothing else. Alright, I'm gonna go back by clicking on this mask. I'm gonna go ahead and delete it. And now we're gonna check out the other masking options. Select sky is going to do the same thing as select subject, except it's going to select the sky. There you go. So this guy has now been selected. And I'm gonna go ahead and delete that. And now we're going to try out the brush. The brush will allow you to brush on your mask exactly where you want it. And you have a few tools over here on the left to help you do that. So the first thing you can do here is you can adjust your brush size as you did with the healing and clone tools. And then below that you can adjust the feathering. The next option is called flow, which will increase or decrease how dense the edits are. And it's similar to opacity. This is useful if you want to gradually build up your edit with multiple strokes versus applying it all at once. And that's something you want to do. Make sure you have flow set to a smaller amount. Now this next option will invert the mask. Then if you click on it, it will invert it again to its original form. Alright, one more tool for your brush, which is the eraser tool, which is located just below the brush icon. And this will allow you to erase parts of the mask as needed. All right, let's go ahead and delete that one. And now let's take a look at the gradients. For the linear gradient, you're gonna click on your image and drag it out to reveal the three lines that are part of your gradient. So the lines represent where the edit will be applied at 100% and will gradually decrease the 0% when it reaches the third line. Now based on this mask overlay that I've created, you can see how the color transitions from a solid color to none at the other end of the gradient. So you can alter the length of the transition by clicking on an outer line and increasing the space between the lines. Or you can do the opposite by decreasing the space. Now to alter the angle of the gradient, click on the center line and drag it into position. And clicking on the anchor point in the middle will allow you to change the location of the gradient as you move across your image. Alright, we're gonna delete this one, and now we're going to try out the radial gradient. We're gonna click and drag out as before to create a circle or oval to change the shape, grab one of these outer circles and drag out based on the size you need. And clicking on this long line and circle allows you to rotate the shape. And if you click in the middle here, you can reposition the shape in the area that you want to target on your image. All right, next we have color range, which is going to make a mask based on the color that you select. So we have two circles. We have white and a solid color on the inside, which is the color that is currently being targeted. And if I click on the inside of the circle, I can navigate around the image to target a specific color that I need to mask. Then if I click on the Apply button, it will create that mask. If you need to make adjustments to that mask, just click on this Eyedropper tool here to the left, and then you can reposition it as needed. You can also refine your colors to further target a specific color range by clicking on this refining slider down here to the left to reduce. To the right to increase the range of colors. You can also change your mode by clicking on the masking tool here. And then you can select an area based on the outline that you create for Lightroom to target. So now it's going to check out those colors in this area that I've selected. And of course I can refine those colors again and then apply to update the mask accordingly. Now the other thing that you can do is you can also refine your color range by clicking on this number below the eyedropper tool and then increasing or decreasing the slider as needed. I'm gonna go ahead and delete that one. And now let's check out the luminance range. Now, luminance is going to create a mask based on the brightness levels that you target or the tonal range. Once you select the luminance masking tool, everything is going to be masked and you're going to get this pulsating circle here. And then you're going to click on the inside to drag it around to target a specific brightness level. Once you do that, the slider at the bottom will update and show you the area outlined that is part of the tonal range being targeted, in this case the whites and the highlights. I can click on either end of this and drag it out or n to further refine the tonal range that I want to target. Or you can change your mode by selecting it with the marquee tool. You can also click on the center of the slider here and drag the entire area that you want to target down to a smaller point, or I should say, a different tonal range. Once you click Apply, you have the same options as you did before. Alright, now let me show you how you can update how the mask overlay it looks. If you click on the three dots appear in the top right, that's going to give you a new panel of options. Under mode, you have color overlay by default. Clicking on that will reveal additional options for viewing your mask. You can change the color of your mask as well. If you want to hide the tool overlay icon. For example, we have a little head and shoulders icon in blue here, which represents the subject select tool. And I can click on Show always the high that. Click it again to reveal it. All right, a couple more quick tips to help you organize and work with your masks. If you take a look at these floating panels on the left and the right, there's two vertical white lines. If you click on that and drag it to the left, it's going to expand the menu of the masks. Now we have what looks like individual layers, and each mask has a name plus additional options to update targets or modify that mask. If you click on the three dots next to the mask, you'll get a menu of additional options which will allow you to hide, Rename, duplicate, or delete that specific mask. You can also add to the mask or subtract from the mask. If I select Add to mask, I can then choose from one of the tool options here. And in this case they may want to use the brush tool. And then I can brush on the image to add to the mask. And subtracting from the mask will do just the same except for, well, it's going to subtract from the mask. All right, so that's it for the masking tool. Next up is discovering how to use the cropping tool. 40. Discover the Crop tool: All right, It's now time to take a look at all the options you have available for cropping your images. So let's jump back into Lightroom and get started to crop your image. You're going to grab a corner or a side and then resize it as needed. And then you can reposition a crop on your image to recompose it by clicking in the middle and then dragging around your image to crop exactly what you need in the image and exclude anything that doesn't need to be part of the image. So right now, we have the center here of the subject being highlighted or outlined with the crop tool and everything outside of it. It is a little bit darker and that's showing the area that's going to be cropped out of the image. Once you're happy with the crop, go ahead and click that little check mark in the bottom right to apply it. Now if you go back into the crop tool, you can then begin adjusting your crop as needed in case you made a mistake. Now if you want a specific aspect ratio, go ahead and click on this first icon here with two-by-three underneath it. And that will give you some different options for the aspect ratio. So if you want a five by seven print, go ahead and click on that. Or if you want an eight by ten, click on four by five. And then when you begin adjusting the crop, it will stick to that aspect ratio. If you need a custom aspect ratio, you can go ahead and click on custom here. And then as you begin to resize it, it's not going to conform to a specific aspect ratio. And the sides are not going to co-exist or resize to keep a specific aspect ratio. It's gonna be a free adjustment. If you want to lock in that aspect ratio or that crop that you created, go ahead and click on that little icon to the right of the aspect ratio icons. And then you can begin cropping that larger or smaller if needed. And then of course, you can click on the inside to move around the image to make sure you're cropping exactly what you need. Now this third option called straighten, will automatically fix the horizons in your landscapes when those horizons are crooked. So all you have to do is click on it and it's going to automatically straighten out the image. But if you don't agree with it, you can actually rotate the image or the crop, I should say, to straighten it out for you manually by clicking on these little dots and lines below the crop overlay. So if I click on this and drag to the left or to the right, I can then manually straightened out that crop. I can also click on the outside of the overlay anywhere on the image and rotate it that way as well. If you want to rotate to the left, you can do that. And you can also rotate to the right. And if you want to flip the image, go ahead and click on flip. And finally, if you want to change the format from vertical to horizontal or vice versa, click on this little icon in the top left, and it will change the format Accordingly. All right, so that's it for the crop tool. Now when you're done editing your photos and you're ready to share them with the world, you'll need to share them and we're gonna talk about sharing in the next tutorial. 41. Discover the Share tool: Alright, so you've edited your images to profession and you're ready to share them with the world. But how? Well in this tutorial, I'm gonna share with you some ways to share your images. So if you're ready, let's do it. To start the sharing process, you're gonna click on this third icon up here in the top. And this is going to give you a list of options. The first one is share two. Once you click on that, it's going to give you some options here to share via your apps. Or if you scroll down, there will be other ways to share as well. So I'll go ahead and let you check those out since they are pretty much self-explanatory. Next we have get a link and then Lightroom is going to create a link where people can visit that image based on a specific URL that Adobe is creating. And then you can allow anyone to view it, or you can invite only by inviting people that you choose. And you're gonna do that with the invite people option here by adding their email address and then you can invite one or multiple people. Now for the Link settings, you have some options here to show the metadata and show location info. If you're photographing images at your house, you probably don't want to share that information with the world. So I would recommend keeping those turned off and then you can make adjustments to these other options here as well. Now if you want to customize the display, you can adjust the show title, the name of it, and the author, as well as adjusting the grid and the appearance. Now what do I mean by customize display? Well, if I click on this link here, it's going to open up my browser and navigate to the URL created by the link creation. And it's going to show the image, the author, and the title, as well as it's going to display all the information based on the dark theme that I selected and the grid I selected as well. If you want to customize those, go to customize display. Now, open in is going to allow you to open that particular file in a specific app or some other options here as well. And then if you want to export your final edits, you can do so by sending it to your camera roll or export it to a specific folder and the files here. Then the next option is called Share Edit. This will allow you to share your editing process with Lightroom users around the world. They're gonna see the original, all the edits you made, and the final image. You can even let other savior edit settings as a preset. So that's pretty cool. Once you get inside of the Share Edit, you'll see a form where you need to fill out some information before you share it. Then the last option is export as which will allow you to export your image based on a file type you need. If you shoot in RAW, you're going to need an export in the JPEG file format in order to share those images online, you can also choose tiff and DNG if you need those file formats based on whatever it is you're doing, then you can change the dimension of the image either from largest available to small, or you can custom set the long side based on the number of pixels wide or tall, you need that particular file. Then you can change the image quality. I typically use 80%, but you can choose something higher or lower depending on your needs. And then we have watermarks. So if you want to place a copyright notice on your image, whether it's your name or logo. You can go into customize here and type in your name and do some adjustments down here to your copyright information. Or if you have a logo, I would recommend a PNG file for this. That way it has transparency. Then you can choose a file from this option right here. And you want to make sure that file is on your phone. And then you can make adjustments to the size opacity and change the position of where it is on your image with these sliders down here at the bottom. Then under more options, you have some additional ways you can customize that watermark. And these are all pretty much self-explanatory, so we'll go ahead and check those out. 42. What's coming up next?: Over the next few tutorials, you're going to learn the power of presets, how to install, use, and create your own presets. Now make sure to download the free presets that I've included in this class. And I talked about how to download those at the beginning of the course. So hopefully you did that. If not, go back to the beginning of the editing challenge and check out the intro video to learn how to download those free presets. So if you're ready to learn the power of presets, Let's do it. 43. the Power of Presets: Alright, if you are new to the world of Lightroom and Presets, this tutorial is for you. I'm gonna give you a quick overview of what presets are and how you can use them to get the most out of Lightroom and quickly fulfill your creative vision. What is a Lightroom preset? A preset is nothing more than pre saved edit settings that are saved into a file format known as the preset that can then be applied to any other images in the future. Plus you can also find pre-made presets created by other photographers that you can download and install into Lightroom. In fact, Adobe includes some free presets with the free version of Lightroom. And if he decided to upgrade to the premium Lightroom app, then you'll get an additional 150 presets included with your subscription. And as part of this course, fill in. I have included over 50 additional custom and premium presets for free. In the next tutorial, you'll be able to download these free presets and I'll show you how to install them, use them, and create your own. 44. How to Install Presets: All right, I'm now going to share with you over 50 presets that you can download via this lecture, and I'll show you a couple of ways to install them. Now, the first method for installing will be the slowest. And if you want to speed up the process, skipped a method to, but you're going to need the Lightroom CC desktop app to use method two. And when you do, the desktop app will auto sync presets from your computer to your smartphone. For method one, we're going to go into this lecture and click on the Resources link here. Then you're going to click on the zip file at the bottom and download it. Once it's downloaded, go ahead and click on Open in. Then open and downloads. And now you need to unzip the file, which you can do by clicking on this file here. And now you have a folder with the presets inside. Let's go ahead and install those by going back to Lightroom. Okay, let's click on the Import button and choose from files. Next, you're going to need to browse to the folder of images that you've just unzipped. And mine is located in iPhone. And I'm going to go inside of this folder here. And that's going to list all of the presets. Now inside you're going to find two different file preset types. The first, our files with the XMP file format appended to the end of the filename. And then the other file type will only have the filename and no file extension. So the XMP files are used for the desktop or laptop app. The other files will be used to install on your smartphone or tablet. Now remember, I said this was going to be much slower and that's because you have to install these presets one at a time with this method. So if you have the desktop app, then you may want to install them via that method versus this one. If not, then to install these, this way, you're going to click on the file that you want to add. And I'm going to click on this first one here, then adds it to your photo library. Now make sure you have that file selected and then go into the light panel to make sure some edits have been applied. And these are the edits that I created for this file, at least in the light panel. What you need to do now is click on Presets and click on the three dots here in the top right, and then click on Create Preset. From here, you're going to give it a name and then you need to choose where you want to save them. So click on User Presets if that's where you want to store them, or click on Create New Preset group to create a new folder to save your presets into. And then when you click on this check mark in the top right, that will save that information. And now you have your free preset installed on your phone. And you just need to repeat those steps for all the other presets. Let's check out how to install the presets on the desktop app and sync them to your smartphone. All right, so for method two, I'm going to use the Lightroom CC desktop app. And we're gonna go up to File and click on Import profiles and Presets. Now you need to locate the presets that you downloaded and unzipped. Select all the ones you want to import and click Import. Now once the presets have been imported, you can see them in the edit mode under User Presets. Now to sync these presets from your desktop to your smartphone, you want to make sure you're logged into your same Adobe ID for both apps. That way lightroom can then think the imported presets from the desktop to the Cloud and across all your devices. Once the sinking is done, go to your presets. Go inside of User Presets, and you will find all your presets now installed in the same location as the desktop app. Alright, now that you know how to install your presets in the next tutorial, I want to show you how to create your own presets and manage the presets that you have. 45. How to Manage Presets: All right, I now want to show you how to create your own presets and how to manage any presets that you may already have installed in Lightroom. So let's jump into Lightroom here. And let's say you've finished editing an image and you loved the edit, and you want to save those edit settings as a preset won't come down here and click on Presets. Then in the top right you're going to click on the three dots and click on Create Preset. You're going to give it a name. And then you have to decide what group you want to save it into and what edit settings you want to save in the preset. If you click on User Presets, you can change it from user presets to another preset group you've already created or click on Create New Preset group to create a new group. Now under Select, you have all your editing options that you can save to that preset. If you have some masking edits that you want to save, click on the masking box to add that edit or those edits to the preset. Now if you want to remove something, just uncheck it. And you can also go into these different groups here, let's say light, for example, you can see all seven different types of edits you can do. And that light editing panel and let's say for whatever reason you don't want to include the exposure, you can go ahead and uncheck that. And then you're going to notice six out of seven edits are available for that light group. Once you've selected all the edits you want to save in the preset. Go ahead and click on this check-mark in the top-right to save the preset. Now the other thing you're going to notice when you go into the presets panel, you're gonna see three options here, recommended premium and yours. So the recommended option here is going to use the AI built into Lightroom. And what is going to do is it's going to search throughout the Lightroom community and give you suggestions for preset that you can then apply to your image. Once you find one, go ahead and click on it. And once it's highlighted, you're going to notice these three dots here. Clicking on that will then show you the name of the person that created this preset. And you can follow that person in the community if you want to do that. Next to that, we have the premium presets included in your Adobe subscription. And then the last one are all your presets that you've installed or created. Now to manage these presets, you're gonna click on these three dots and click on Manage Presets. From here, you're gonna see the different groups available. So currently I have premium and yours. The premium group includes 15 different groups of presets and when he plugged gum, that you will see all of them. Then under yours, I currently have 18 groups of presets. Now what you can do is you can actually hide a set of presets or a group of presets by turning it off. You can then show any preset groups that you mistakenly hidden or want to reshow. Now when I click on Done and go back to premium, you're going to notice that group of presets is no longer visible. So I need to go back inside of there if I want to turn that back on. And then when I do it will then show up in this area. Again. Once you're done managing you were presets. Make sure to click on this checkmark to save those updates. 46. What's coming up next?: All right, before we wrap up this Lightroom editing class, I have some pro tips I want to share with you, including where you're editing should start. Plus I'm gonna give you five common editing mistakes you should avoid. And then you're going to learn about RAW vs JPEG and why I recommend one over the other. If you're ready, let's do it. 47. Where Does Editing Start?: One of the most asked questions I get from students when it comes to editing for the first time, is, where does editing start? And the answer is probably not what you're going to expect. And I'll give you the answer in just a second. First, I just wanted to give you an indication of what this particular tutorial is all about. And that is to help you define your editing workflow so that you're not staring at your Lightroom app and wondering what editing tool you should use next. So the answer to where does editing start is not that easy. And that's because I believe that editing does not start in Photoshop, Lightroom or any other editing software. Instead, you're editing should start in your camera before you take the photo. Now, the more you can get right in camera, the less you'll have to fix in Lightroom when you start editing. What can you do as far as editing as you create your photos? Well, you can nail your exposure. White balance, composition makes sure you have the proper lighting to shape your subjects based on your creative vision and choose your color profile if possible. Now, this all depends, of course, on your camera gear, your experience as a photographer and more. But as you elevate your skills as a photographer, you will find it beneficial to do as much as possible in camera versus trying to fix it in Lightroom. Now, once you've created your image, then where does your editing starts in Lightroom? Well, if you didn't select your profile at the time of capture, that would be one of the first things I'd recommend setting. And you should choose one that aligns with your editing style. Then I do recommend enabling the optics features to fix any lens distortions, cropping the image for improving the composition and or straightening the image. After those adjustments, you then have some choices to make based on your editing style. My recommendation would be to work in the order that the editing panels are listed in Lightroom. I'd make adjustments to the light or tonal ranges first, followed by the colors, effects, and details. After that, you may want to tweak your edits with the masking tool and then retouch with the heel tools. Another thing to consider is whether or not you first want to apply a preset. This is useful when you've defined your editing style and has specific presets you'd like to go to on a regular basis. Plus, you can include the profile and optic edits within your presets to further streamline your editing workflow. Now, regardless of the order you choose to apply your edits, I recommend writing down the steps you take for your personal style. This way, your edits are consistent and it makes it easier and quicker once you get into a groove. Now, next up, I'm going to share five common editing mistakes that most beginners make and how to avoid them. If you're ready, we'll have to do it. 48. Five Common Editing Mistakes: It's now time to elevate your editing skills by discovering the five most common editing mistakes I see photographers make and how to avoid or fix them. Also, these are in no particular order. One of the mistakes I see photographers make is they are editing incorrectly or are they? Well, when you're first starting out, you have a lot of information to process, like understanding the tools, figuring out your editing style and more. As you edit and share your images with others on Instagram, Facebook, etc. You're going to get some unwanted critiques. Either because you made a mistake unintentionally or someone doesn't like your style. Lesson number one, don't take criticism personally. Instead, take other's opinions and see if they match with what you're trying to achieve. And then decide if you need to tweak your edits. As long as your edits help you achieve your creative vision, that's all that matters. That is, if the edit you achieved was intentional, for example, if you are preferred, editing style consists of bright, airy images, then chances are the whites and highlights will not have as much detail as a classic natural edit. Or if you prefer dark, moody images, then you'll have fewer details and the blacks and shadows, if you continue to get criticized for this lack of detail, then I'd recommend including in your description of the photo, your preferred style, and what that means to the details. Or just say, this is my editing style and I love it. All right, so it is said that the highs are the gateway to the soul. So let's live and up those eyes enhance the colors and touch shares, but not too much. And let's not create inadvertently Aliens. What are the biggest mistakes I see when it comes to editing eyes? Is there over edited because the whites of the eyes are to white and to perfect. And here's what it should look like. This is more natural to what eyes looked like in person. The whites have some detail and are more on the light gray side versus pure white. Also, if you're not adding a fill light or using a reflector to add light into the shadows and eyes. Then you'll need to brighten them up so they don't look like a big glob of darkness. So here's an image of my daughter being backlit and I didn't use any kind of fill light. This resulted in the eyes being very dark. I use my masking tools to target the eyes and I made them brighter and enhance the details with the texture and clarity sliders. So back in 1971, the year I was born, a movie came out called Willy Wonka. And the Chocolate Factory. Will you walk because employees were known as lupus. Now, take a close look at their skin color versus Willy Wonka. And what do you see? Well, if you see what I see, their skin is much more saturated or orange than Willie MRI. This is one of the biggest mistakes I see portrait photographers make. They either choose the wrong white balance or over saturate the yellows and oranges in the image and the skin looks unnatural or like and balloons. So unless your goal is to replicate and Ubuntu Bupa tone down the saturation of skin colors. Alright, so I see way too many images that are over or underexposed with no apparent direction or intention. Remember an over or underexposed image is fine if you're creating a certain mood. I think a lot of photographers are unaware that their photos are over or underexposed, but it is obvious to an experienced photographer. Now to avoid this, you want to learn how to read a histogram, since that is the pathway to ensuring your images are properly exposed based on your creative vision. Alright, so over sharpening in an image is a dead giveaway to an amateur edits. So the question is, how much sharpening? Well, my recommendation based on what I do is as follows. For any photos I plan to post online, I'll tend to apply more sharpening versus a photographic print. But the larger the photo enlargement, the less sharpening I'll apply. And the reason why is if I do, let's say 16 by 20 print or something even larger like 30 by 30, like these prints behind me here. These images are not going to be viewed close up and I'm not putting them on my desk with a further viewing distance. I don't need to add as much sharpening, but if I did apply the same amount of sharpening as a smaller print, well, it's going to be more noticeable when you're closer to that print due to the size of the image. Smaller image print requires more sharpening because it's smaller. And to ensure I'm not over sharpening, I'll use the masking tool in the Detail panel to restrict the sharpening in the mid tones to the shadows. And we'll keep it off the highlights as much as possible. Or I'll target specific areas like the eyes, eyelashes, hair, and other places with fine detail with the masking tool. 49. RAW vs JPG: To shoot or not to shoot in RAW. That is the question. Which one? Well, my recommendation is wrong. And the reason why is a raw file contains more data than a JPEG file. For example, if you over or underexposed your image a little, there's a good chance you can recover some of the lost detail with raw file. Now how is that possible? Well, JPEG file is a compressed file format and RA is, well, it's raw or unprocessed. Let's check out a couple of graphics that show the steps of your photo being processed in camera. The first one is based on a JPEG file. So once you click on the shutter release button to create your photo, and before it saved to your media card, your camera processes the information it received from your sensor and the other cameras settings you chose, like the white balance, the color profile and more. So your camera takes that information along with the exposure data, like the brightness levels of the light that were captured. And it sends it to your cameras processor. The processor reviews all that information and in order to save it as a JPEG file, it has to compress that data. In other words, your camera is saying, sorry, the detail in the clouds, you don't need those. So I'm going to discard that information so I can compress the information I need into a JPEG file. Then once your images saved as a JPEG, dead detail is gone forever, you can't get it back. Now let's compare that to a raw file. This time, instead of throwing out that information, all of the data collected is bypassed by your processor since the raw file isn't being compressed. In other words, all the data or the detail in your clouds that were collected by your sensor is saved in the raw file. Now, when you adjust your highlights, you can restore the detail in the clouds. How cool is that? So in my opinion, ra is the way to go. 50. Thank you!: Congratulations on finishing this Lightroom editing class. Hopefully you're now editing your images like a pro on the go with your smartphone. Now if you have any questions or if you want to upload an image for your project so I can critique it for you. Or if you just want to show off your new editing skills, you're gonna scroll down below this video here and click on Discussions and then ask a question too, while ask a question. And then to submit a project, click on Projects and Resources. Click on this green button right here. And then you're gonna fill out all this information. Make sure to upload your image from here, and then you can go ahead and submit that. So thanks for listening and have an awesome day.